The Remote Mexican Restaurant Reviving Jalisco's Forgotten Cuisine
Maru Toledo and the Mujeres del Maíz are putting history on the plate. Entering Maru Toledo’s Santina de Covadonga restaurant on a hot, dry day feels like traveling back in time. Visitors who walk up to the gate, dirt crunching under their feet, will likely encounter a dog lazing about and bougainvillea waving gently in the breeze. After passing through the 19th century–style kitchen, filled with dark-red earthenware pottery, old cookbooks, and the smell of smoke, they’ll sit beneath a tin ro...
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