Apsley Falls
Giant waterfall and gorge – that sums Apsley Falls in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park – a mid-sized precinct centring around the falls of its same name in the eastern New England region of New South Wales. Although it is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, it has no direct connection to any other part of the park – via car or foot – and in practice, is a park of its own.
Understand
[edit]History
[edit]Apsley had significance even thousands of years ago; the story of how the Rainbow Serpent created the Apsley Falls in the Dreamtime holds immense cultural significance. According to the tale, the Rainbow Serpent travelled underground from the base of the falls, reemerging 20 km upstream at Mill Hole on the Apsley River in Walcha. This site is marked with a mosaic of the Rainbow Serpent, created with the help of the local Indigenous community.
Beyond its cultural significance as a meeting place for Aboriginal people, the area also has a history tied to European exploration. On September 13, 1818, John Oxley passed by the falls, naming them Bathurst Falls. He described them as "one of the most magnificent waterfalls we have seen." Oxley also named nearby the Apsley River.
In 1902, three men built a wooden staircase that cross-crossed from the top of the gorge to the base of the falls. The timber for this risky and labour-intensive project was hand-cut using only axes and adzes. The original staircase was in use until 1932, when it was declared unsafe and partially dismantled. This marked the start of tourism to the falls.
Years later, after the wooden stairs had deteriorated, the Walcha Lions Club undertook the major task of building a steel staircase and halfway lookout. The local council supplied all the materials, and club members dedicated over 1,700 hours to complete the project before opening in October 1961.
Today Apsley Falls primarily remains as a stopover point for travellers driving along the Oxley Highway, which is particular popular with motorcylists. However, the nature of Oxley Highway and the fact that it sees very little use by car drivers and road trippers due to its obscure location means the park is often very quiet at most times of the day – if you visit on a weekday outside the holiday season, chances are you will be the only one in the park. It sees considerably fewer visitors compared to its similar counterparts such as Dorrigo or Ebor along Waterfall Way.
As part of being part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, which is in the Hastings-Macleay Group of Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, Apsley Falls is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Landscape, flora and fauna
[edit]The steep walls of the upper Apsley Gorge are mainly caused by the vertical splitting of slate in the area. With this, in addition to the Apsley River that flows through the area, is what results in the 100+-metre-high Apsley Falls.
Around the gorge, you'll find forest vegetation with only a light undergrowth of shrubs. Some of the common plants include brambles, boomerang wattle (Acacia amoena), silver wattle (Acacia dealbata), fern-leaved wattle (Acacia filicifolia), and green briars. There are also tea trees, broad-leaved stringybark (Eucalyptus caliginosa), ribbon gum (Eucalyptus viminalis), narrow-leaved black peppermint (Eucalyptus nicholii), forest red gum, yellow box (Eucalyptus melliodora), hyacinth orchids (Dipodium punctatum), gorge hakea (Hakea fraseri), native broom (Jacksonia scoparia), and daisy shrubs.
The area is great for spotting wildlife. You might see bald eagles soaring on the thermals, kangaroos hopping around, colourful parrots like crimson rosellas, echidnas (also called spiny anteaters), and wallabies.
Climate
[edit]The climate is generally quite cool all-year around and there is no specific time that's better for visiting, though keep in mind that the elevation does mean you will need a jacket in winter and it can get a little bit hot during the summer. Unlike its counterparts on Waterfall Way, it does not always rain here; nonetheless you're still more likely to experience rain during the summer, but this also means that the falls are all the more grand.
Visitor information
[edit]Get in
[edit]The park is only accessible by car, but can be reached by 2WD all-year as all the park's roads are sealed.
Walcha is the closest town to the park – from Walcha, head 19 km east from the intersection between Thunderbolts Way and Oxley Highway. There will be signs indicating the approach to Apsley Falls around 1–2 km before the turnoff onto Apsley Falls Road. Pay extra attention as the approach can come rather quickly as you'll be travelling 110 km/h between the two. The same applies travelling west from Wauchope, except the park is 144 km west of Wauchope and it takes 2 hours from the east.
Once you have turned onto Apsley Falls Road, continue on the sealed road for a few hundred metres and parking will appear to your left. Parking is also available close to Apsley Falls itself.
Fees and permits
[edit]Apsley Falls is in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, which is not a fee-collecting park – meaning no fee required other than camping fees (if you're camping).
Get around
[edit]
The core part of the park is no greater than 3 km across by foot; you can get around most of the park by foot, though from the campground you do have the option to drive a few hundred metres to get closer to the falls and both walking trails.
All roads in the park are strictly 40 km/h.
See and do
[edit]Everything in this section of the park is either on two walks, Gorge Rim Track (coloured on map) or Oxley Walk (coloured on map). Gorge Rim Circuit is the shorter of the two walks; if you're short on time, the shorter walk has most of the important sights, but Oxley is well worth a walk if you have the extra time.
Gorge Rim Circuit
[edit]The Gorge Rim Circuit is a 1.2-km loop trail, very easy and good if you're travelling with children who don't want to walk long distances. It should take no more than 30 minutes to complete, even with stops at all of the lookouts. The track also makes a spur to the campground; this part can be safely skipped if you aren't camping.
Starting clockwise from the picnic area, the lookouts on this circuit are as follows:
- 1 Apsley Main Falls Lookout (McMillan Lookout). The main lookout where you can see Apsley Falls in its glory with its 123-metre-high drop – not much else to do other than enjoy the waterfall which in itself is the experience. Occasionally after heavy rain the mist from the waterfall may cross the gorge; make sure not to get your cameras wet!
- 2 Lower Pool Lookout. Well, the water from Apsley Gorge has to flow somewhere; that somewhere is this tiny innocuous deep-plunge pool just further down along with great views of the gorge.
- 3 Landslide Lookout. 1987 marked a massive landslide that resulted in the giant slate walls in Apsley Gorge. A smaller landslide also added to this in 2005. The result of this is you being able to see massive gorge and the immense natural beauty that stemmed from it.
- 4 Lions Lookout. The final lookout along the walk further down – not much is unique about this lookout compared to the other three, except the colours of the walls which are to be admired.
Oxley Track
[edit]Oxley Track in contrast is a much longer walk but still relatively short compared to most walking trails and is only 2.8 km return. Most of what you see on this track can be seen from Gorge Rim Circuit with the excepton of the Lower Falls which can only be seen from this track.
Some people also only walk along the suspension bridge and back as the bridge is quite the walk.
Lookouts and points of interests along the walk, starting from the picnic area, are as follows:
- 5 Apsley Falls Suspension Bridge. A nice small neat suspension bridge with a good view of the stream before the falls. Just don't jump on it when others around...
- 6 Oxley Lookout. Very much a companion to Apsley Main Falls Lookout along the Gorge Rim Cct, except the views of the waterfall are a lot more clearer from here and you also get uninterrupted views of the gorge.
- 7 Chasm Lookout. Similar to Oxley and Lower Pool Lookouts but provides better views of the lower drop and the gorge, especially views that you cannot see from the other side of the gorge.
- 8 Lower Falls Lookout. Another lookout but with an even nicer view of the lower falls compared to the previous two lookouts.
- 9 Slate Walls Lookout. This lookout is very similar in nature to Landslide and Lions Lookouts on the Gorge Rim Circuit – however, unlike the other lookouts on this track, you're more likely to get better views from Lions Lookout than here.
Buy
[edit]There are no shops in Apsley Falls – bring your own supplies. If you forget, very basic/essential supplies can be purchased at nearby Walcha.
Eat
[edit]You will need to bring your own food. A picnic area, 1 Apsley Falls picnic area, near the suspension bridge, is a good place to bring the food you brought. However, keep in mind that picnic area only conssts of a single picnic bench and a single BBQ area. Although it is seldom used due to the low number of visitors, you'd be out of luck if it were in use. No bins are provided; please take your rubbish home.
Drink
[edit]Although water is available, it is non-potable and you are better off bringing your own water (or purchasing it from a supermarket in nearby Walcha). If you do use the water here, make sure to boil it for at least 10 minutes before consuming it.
Sleep
[edit]The precinct only has one campground, which is the only place you may sleep within the park.
- 1 Apsley Falls Campground, Apsley Falls Camping Area Rd. Contains 14 campsites, all of which are marked. The campsite also has additional exclusive picnic tables and barbecue facilities.
Stay safe
[edit]Very little needs to be said about this section of the park other than what applies to most of regional NSW. Be wary for bushfires in the summer and watch out for the occasional snake on the walking tracks.
Go next
[edit]| Coonabarabran ← Walcha ← | W B56 E | → Cottan-Bimbang National Park → Port Macquarie |
Your only options are to head west towards Walcha and thus Tamworth, a regional centre, or east towards Wauchope and Port Macquarie passing through Cottan-Bimbang National Park.
If you head east, Tia Falls is also worth a visit if you have the time. However, unlike Apsley Falls, there is no sealed road access, but it can comfortably be reached with an SUV.