Salvias Will Grow Happily In Containers (And It’s Essential For The Tender Ones)
Reviewed By ROY NICOL
Roy is a Professional Gardener and Horticultural Consultant, specialising in large garden year-round maintenance and garden development. He is an RHS Master of Horticulture and uses his research in the application of no-dig methods in ornamental garden settings. Roy has been a Professional Gardener for more than six years and is a member of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture, Professional Gardener's Guild and Association of Professional Landscapers (Professional Gardener).
Contributions From VICKI WESTON
Owner of Weston's Salvias, Vicki has been nursing and selling plants online for 10 years from her home in West Wales, near the coast of Cardigan Bay. She offers nearly 100 salvia varieties for sale, has been featured in various online publications and has delivered talks to various clubs up and down the country.
Lyndi was one of the founding members of the Victorian Salvia Study Group when it was set up around 20 years ago, after previously being a member of the Victorian Herb Society. She now works as Coordinator for the study group - a role she has held since 2013. Previously, Lyndi also worked as a Landscape Designer.
IN THIS GUIDE
SALVIA GUIDES
Common Problems
Container Growing
Cuttings Propagation
Deadheading
Division
Harvesting
Overwintering
Planting
Pruning
Varieties
– Hot Lips
– Common Sage
– Pink Varieties
– Woodland Sage
Sage plants’ unusual, irregularly-shaped flowers are as much a treat to the eyes as the zesty leaves that are a treat to the palate in pot roasts and stuffings.
You may be wondering if you can grow sage in containers.
Luckily for you, this article has all the answers.
Can You Grow Salvia In Pots?
Yes, you can, and if you are growing salvia varieties that are hardy only to H3, you probably should.
That way you won’t have any trouble protecting the frost-tender plants over the winter, as Vicki Weston from Weston’s Salvias explains:
“Salvias will grow happily in containers and, for the tender varieties, many of which are still in spectacular flower in November, it’s essential.”
Choosing Suitable Containers
I’d recommend you choose a terra-cotta pot with drainage holes.
It’s best to avoid containers made of plastic and other synthetic materials.
As for the size of the container, this depends on the present size of the plant and, eventually, on its ultimate height and spread.
“I think that many people use containers for salvias because they are nervous about their plants surviving over winter,” Vicki says.
“Remember that shrubby types grow thousands of feet up in the South American mountains, so they are tough.
“Hot Lips, Royal Bumble and lots of other varieties are hardy to -10°C and, ironically, as a container is colder, they are less safe in the winter in a pot than in the ground!”
Salvia varieties’ ultimate heights range from a compact 0.3-2m, so the size of the container will be very variable.
I’d recommend choosing a container with a height that is about half as much as the current height of the plant, or even a little more.
Salvia roots grow relatively quickly and it has a well-spread root system, so be sure to pot on or consider using a bigger pot in the first place.
Choosing Compost
Salvias perform best in moderately fertile, but not overly rich, soil with some organic content, but they are susceptible to root rot so excellent drainage is non-negotiable.
“Choose a very good potting soil with little organic matter so the soil doesn’t become sour due to a lack of oxygen,” advises Lyndi Garnett, from the Victorian Salvia Study Group.
For all salvia except Rosemary varieties, you can’t go wrong with a high-quality outdoor or all-purpose potting mix.
Otherwise, loose soil that is a mix of grit or perlite, sand, and organic compost will do very well for most salvia.
For Rosemary varieties, less fertile soil such as a balanced loam should be used.
The soil should be kept moist, though it should be allowed to dry out between waterings.
Potting Up Salvia
Potted Salvia plants will need to be potted up until they attain their ultimate size.
Nearly all salvias should not be left in their original containers permanently as they can become rootbound with resultant stress on the plant, causing it eventually to die.
Whether you pot on or transplant your salvia, a sunny May morning would be ideal.
For most Salvia varieties we suggest that the new pot should be two sizes up from the current one.
Lightly water the potted salvia, then dig a planting hole that is a little deeper and a little wider than the plant’s pot.
Remove the Salvia with the soil from the pot, then gently shake out some of the soil from the roots.
If the roots are well spread, place the crown in the hole to transplant, but if they are rootbound then you will need to loosen the roots and spread them out before placing into the new container.
A good way to do so is to dip the root system into a tub of clean, cold water, gently swish them around, and separate them.
Backfill around the hole, firm up the soil and water thoroughly.
How Many Salvia Can You Plant Per Pot?
For full-grown perennial salvia, I’d suggest that you grow only one per pot so that the pot’s dimensions are appropriate for the given plant’s size.
Most salvia varieties require soil nutrients to produce the most eye-catching blooms and the most delectable leaves, so it is wise to let each plant play by itself.
“Pots can be positioned in various locations – shade or sun,” says Lyndi.
“Most like a sunny sheltered position, but it can vary, so check the preferences for the varieties you are growing.”
Pot-Grown Salvia Care
For the most part, salvia in pots should be kept in full sun in a sheltered spot.
Varieties that are hardy to H6 or H7 may be kept in an exposed location.
Whether your salvia plants are in containers or in open ground, regular deadheading will prolong blooming.
During hot summers, keep an eye on salvia containers kept in full sun.
If the plant is drooping, increase the frequency of watering and shift it to a partially sunny location where it will get dappled or filtered sunlight.
“Water your potted salvias around once a week with regular feeding,” recommends Lyndi.
“Make sure there’s lots of air around the pot and that you don’t over water.”
Fertilise these plants once a year in the spring with a balanced controlled-release fertiliser, taking care to use the product in proportion to the size of the plant and the container.
As salvia varieties vary widely in hardiness from frost-tender H2 plants such as Salvia dombeyi (giant Bolivian sage) all the way to fully hardy H7 ones such as Salvia x superba (hybrid sage) – whether or not winter care is required will be up to the particular variety.
“Know your plant – perennial or herbaceous,” advises Lyndi.
“If it becomes winter dormant, it is herbaceous and should be overwintered accordingly.”
In general, varieties that are not hardy in your region should be overwintered indoors or kept in a greenhouse.