Well the last time I was in Naples was in 2013! We had passed through Naples on the Metropolitana railway a couple of days before, to go to Pozzuoli, to see the Solfatara crater. On the day we spent in Naples we had a tropical deluge. We'd been to the amazing archaeological museum (definitely not to be missed), then went to a pizzeria for lunch. That's the only time we ever dined in Naples. It was wonderful and it was very inexpensive. It was full of locals, except for us, always a good sign in Italy. Neapolitans claim to have invented pizza and they are very proud of their tradition. I can't tell you where to get the best pizza, but I'd say several things: first, brilliant pizza in Naples is cheap. Second, seek out the pizzerias that locals use. I understand that the most cherished ones are in the Centro Storico. I'd say that the antennae should be honed in order to eliminate the tourist ones, and Trip Advisor could be useful...

By the way, after the pizza we went to the Duomo, where, we saw the bones of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Napoli, in the crypt. He was beheaded in the Solfatara crater in the fourth century. There's no skull in the urn. Decidedly optional, I'd say...