Headless in a Pattern-Free World

I've been whipping up a pattern-free garment storm, in preparation for my 4-day workshop at Grampians Texture in a few weeks.

 

I've also been Photoshopping my head out of a bazillion photos for student notes, which is strangely liberating ("Tired, middle-aged face, begone!!"). 

 

 

My week has been a world of ideas and experiments ..and of making myself a few new outfits.

 

 

I've also been working through ideas for shapes other than my own.  The whole notion of Pattern-Free is that you work around your own particular shape, and the more you do it, the better you get at judging what will and won't work (and you start to be able to eye-ball measurements on fabric that will fit your body's proportions).

 

The difference in proportion between this top (below) and the first photo in this post, is the difference between it flattering my shape and being a bit ordinary. 

 

The longer, tummy-covering drape would look a treat on some figures. Perhaps it's the posture here (it sort of freaks me out when I see family resemblance in a headless photo), but I can see this one on my eldest sister. She has about 7'' more height and a bust.

 

 

And I think that a bust wouldn't go astray in this twisted tube dress, too. Perhaps some hips... and maybe even a waist as well.

 

 

 

I've come to the conclusion that I'm a straight-tube sort of gal.  Minimalist....

 

 

...with a bit of a twist.

 

 

There are some shapes that would look fabulously fluid and flattering on anyone except people under 5'2'' with swimmer's shoulders and no bust. 

 

 

But Pattern-Free, being all about adapting shapes to suit the body, offers solutions...

 

 

Yup.  Minimalist and much better.

 

 

This week, I may  have also made my new favourite top.

 

..and dress. (Once again, the shirring elastic came out.)

Here I am, practising for when I wear it to art exhibitions....(art here by Manus Walsh and Ilse Theilan).

 

 ..and there'll I'll be, in Halls Gap in a few weeks time, throwing lots of fabric about the place with a bunch of great gals who love sewing as much as I do. I can't wait!

 

 

Back to the beginning....and then an epilogue. (You already know the middle bit)

Long before the shirred top and long before the trapese line top in my book, I made the bustle skirt, based on a square of fabric. I then started thinking about a way to make one based on a quarter-circle skirt.
Somewhere during the process of playing with calico, I thought, "....Ooh, I could make top this way...". So was the beginning of the trapese line top... and a hiatus in the development of the bustle-skirt idea. It was also the start of the patternfree skirt section in the book.


I only got back to the original idea this week.... and it seems to work!
It's a variation on the panel skirt in my book (only I thought of it before I thought of the panel skirts...). The hemline of this skirt finishes in a point - basically, it hasn't been cut in a curve at the hemline (except a bit of last minute trimming before hemming, just so I don't trip and break my neck on the stairs). It has been shirred randomly across the back - with the shirring in a kind of wildly random cross-hatch on the bottom half. There was a bit of slam-pressing, too. The fabric was a printed linen remnant that I bought for $10 at the Shirt & Skirt Market a few years ago. It was a light "faded denim" colour with red and navy flowers. I dyed it indigo.
And I've been swanning about in it like bustle skirts are the height of fashion. (Yes, I watch too many costume dramas).

A little idea I've been toying with....

...Oooh, since before I made the Bustle Skirt.... I've carried it around in my head, imagining the effects and the possibilities, but until yesterday, I didn't get around to actually TRYING it....I made a cotton lawn/voile variation-weave version of my pattern-free trapese-line top (instructions in my book). Using myself as a tailor's dummy, I played around with where to decrease volume and increase texture. I then drew in a few lines between the widest points of the "decrease volume" area with a white marker pen. (You could use chalk if you wanted to wash the garment before wearing it - I wanted to be able to wear it straight away so opted for a disappearing marker pen).
Then I took the top off and neatened up the lines (and drew a few more) using the pen and a ruler.
I hand-wound a bobbin with black shirring elastic, putting a bit of tension on it (stretching it slightly) as I wound. Using a large straight stitch, I followed the white lines with the sewing machine... ...and marvelled at it's lovely bouncy scrunchiness.

And then I slam-pressed the bejeezus out of it. (Hot steamy iron, flat down onto it). I love the crunchy texture of slam-pressing (and the steam "disappears" the white marker pen).

When I put it on again, I thought, "Hmmmmm...." (as I'm apt to do). So I shirred it over the bust as well. More slam pressing. (And, if I'm honest, I must say there was a spot of unpicking and shirring again until it looked right). More slam-pressing.
And then I did that neck twist thing that I love (also in the book).....
I like. Very much. (Although I'll probably unpick that little bit of shirring poking up from the fold).
I'll be doing bit more of this... I'm thinking Sewjourn (in less that 2 weeks.... squeeeeeeee!) might be shirring-city for me!! I'm stocking up on georgette, linen gauze, voiles and jerseys. I reckon it'll work well in any of these.

I'm also looking at my practise-machine-knitting-lengths (read: the bits that self-cast-off) with fresh eyes.... Hmmmmmmmm.....