Sometimes just the idea of a holiday can keep you going. With the UK’s weather in May attempting to wrest April’s crown as the cruellest month — its teasing, stop-start nature somehow even more pernicious than its predecessor’s relentless grey — I found myself limping towards the May half-term break, buoyed only by the prospect of a return to Umbria, in Italy. I had been to the area once before with my partner and two children, now 13 and 10, when we signed ourselves up for a holiday in a