Cross one off my bucket list! I finished the Wardrobe Contest on PR.com

It was sooo close!  I really was working until almost midnight on July 31.
The contest is open to vote for the winner here.  You really should check it out, there are thirty different outfits created.  Voting is only open to members only, but its fun to look at what wonderful outfits people come up with in one short month.

Marfy 2762 and McCall's 6706

Top 1, the adorable white jacket in the first pic was almost my downfall.  Its Marfy 2762 which I have made before.  This should have made it easy.  I barely blogged here, I need to write a tutorial.
Did You Really Sew That blog has a great tutorial here.  I disagree about the sleeve, she says it will never work to her satisfaction as drafted.  I think that part of the charm is the overlapping sleeve so I'm willing to put up with the overlap and topstitch, more on that later.

The skirt is McCall's 6706.  I get compliments, but I'm still not fully secure.  I'll wear it though, especially with the jacket.

Belinni and Manhattan 

Skirt 2 has a completely different silhouette, Capital Chic's Manhattan.  This is a unique color blocked pencil skirt with an asymmetrical, blocked hem and get this, no darts.  All the shaping (and there is plenty of shaping) is in the front seam, side seams and center back seam.  Yes, there is shaping in the center back seam and it works.

Here, it needs more pressing.
And, a smile on my face.  I've been working for 12 days straight and I haven't been home before dark since mid July.  So, before leaving for work this morning I twisted my husband's arm and got him to help me with pics.  He was impatient and I'm just plain tired.  That's OK, I finished the wardrobe and love the pieces.

Marfy 2762 and dress 3339

Did I mention that I love this jacket?

I think I'm gonna take it in at the waist a little, maybe add pockets.  I meant to, ran out of time figuring out how to put the rest together.  Is it wrong to run out of time in a timed contest and go back and re-finish it later?  I re-work and do that all the time.  I've straight stitched a hem at 6AM because I was too lazy to wait for the cleaners to open. Am I the only one who makes long sleeved shirts only to shorten them in the spring?

It could be a couple of inches shorter too, not sure.

I added an extra inch to each side of the center front and added buttons instead of a zipper.

Last time I just partially lined it, this time its fully lined in crystal white-ish Bemberg.

This really does require a full blog post.  I would say T-U-T-E but I swore I never would.  I'm just not the tutorial kind.

I will try to describe the construction.  I sewed the final button on at midnight so some of the details are fuzzy as were some of the pictures.

There was much ripping and gnashing of teeth.

Now, I must prepare for Fasionista's final knit class on Monday night.

Oh look, Its a McCall's! 6706 skirt.

McCall's 6706, Belinni top

I'm not totally a pattern snob.
Well, yes I am.  But...
I find a gem once and awhile.

Just often enough to remind me why I love my Dear Marfy!  I won't bore you with another rant, you can see it all here in a previous New Look post.  OK, OK, basically, too many pattern pieces, too many sizes and where did I put those instructions?  A lining and a pocket are essential, so I had to improvise those.  I also added 4" to the waist which normally wouldn't be a problem, but it totally threw off the pleats.

I do think that only having 4 box pleats makes it a little more slimming than gathering would be.

This looks so nice all styled up.  When I looked at it in the mirror last night I was wearing a T shirt and socks with tenny kickers and I just looked fat.  That is so easy to do, judge a garment prematurely.  I glanced at my reflection this morning and was very pleasantly surprised.

I still might take some of that fullness away from the hips by sewing down the pleats and trimming out the layers behind them, but for now I'm just happy to have ONE of my PR Wardrobe outfits done.

The fabric is a wonderfully SWISHY tropical weight wool that perfectly matches the Valentino polka dot blouse.  I mean really, REALLY matches it.  It is still available here and has a modest 2% lycra which gives it just enough give so I don't worry about stressing it.  It presses OK, almost like 100% wool so I never would have guessed that it had stretch.  This is the perfect tropical weight wool for dresses and skirts, it truly light weight and has a nice texture to it.

I got 4 yards so I should have enough for a favorite skirt pattern Marfy 3094.  I like the concept of this pattern.  Its very asymmetrical to state the obvious. Marfy styled it safari, but I think it has much more potential.

Marfy 3094 skirt

Leisa has made it and documented her journey well at A Challenging Sew.  I'll have to study how she works out the waistband.

I have one more skirt to finish and that Marfy 2762 for my wardrobe.  There are only 3 or 4 days and I'm working overtime.  But don't count me out, I'm determined to work it out this year.

*sigh* back to work for now.

Dress Pattern Perfection Marfy 3339

I finally found the perfect sheath dress!

Marfy 3339 drawing

Marfy 3339 pictured here with the color removed for creative interpretation. I like to scan the drawings, then play coloring book during my breaks at the office.

I can ramble like this because the pattern is shear perfection.

Mine looks a little more A-line than the pattern.  I debated taking in the fullness and making it straight until mid morning when the printer jammed and I spent 15 minutes on my hands and knees pulling tiny scraps of paper out.  I noticed the crowd of people watching and realized how nice it was to not have my hiney sticking out of a tight skirt.

I really love this dress and I'm happier then I look.  But, the work day was long and its about 95F out there.

Marfy 3339

The coworker approval rate was extremely high and the compliments flowed in all day.  I had 2 different people ask me how many sizes I had lost, not pounds, but SIZES!

I just noticed that I forgot to pick out the buttons!  Well, that's what happens when you hem the dress for wearing at 630AM.  I have some navy pearl shank buttons that should be a nice touch.

The waist cinches perfectly, accented by the color inset.  The bust shapes perfectly with a small dart that shows on the left side of the drawing.  This dart is on both sides of the pattern for shaping which is a much better alternative then just having the color block seam run over the top of the bust point.

The Marfy size chart can be found here and I have found the 1 1/2" inches of ease through the bust and hips to be pretty consistent.  The fit isn't tight through the waist, the ease is about 4 inches.

notice the bust darts and the front pleat extension

This pattern come in sizes 42, 46 and 50.  I cut a 46 and the measurements for this size are:

Bust:  39 1/2"
Waist:  34 1/2"
Hips:  41"
Back Waist Length:  15 3/4"
Front Length, Shoulder to Bust: 10"
Sleeve width:  14"

The only fit change that I would make next time is to lower the bust dart by 1".  It is kind of high for them and it stops above my but point.  If it bugs me and I get fussy I may lower it on this dress, but I doubt it.

Marfy 3339 left side

I love this pattern so much.  You could make a perfect simple dress block by copying the left side of the pattern and extending the dart to the hem for a princess seam. You could also double the color blocked side and color block in black and white for an interesting look.

The fabric is a gorgeous 65% polyester and 35% cotton tweed from Sew Much Fabric that is 60" wide and has a nice tight weave.  The navy inset is tropical weight wool .  I lined in navy Bemberg lining.

I think this is the only garment that I own that is polyester.  I'm such a fabric snob!  I like it though.  The weave and the cotton allow it to breathe relatively well for poly.  But as you can see it does wrinkle and doesn't hold a crease as well as wool.  I love the colors and the versatility so I'm making a skirt out of it too.


The shoes you ask ?????  Well, those are fabulous L.K. Bennett's in a beautiful shimmering silver suede that I got myself for my birthday present.  They still have some available here.

Future Plans 

I have enlisted in Susan Khalje's Couture Sewing School in August and I think that I will use the right front of this pattern to make a basic dress pattern block.  I am really excited about finally taking THE class and getting to spend an entire week sewing with my fellow seamstresses and learning from the master.

Susan is the write of THE Bridal Couture sewing book that was my go-to book back in the dressmaking days.  I really look forward to meeting her and saying thank you for all the guidance and inspiration.

Marfy 3339 back

But for today, I talked myself in to entering that Pattern Review wardrobe contest again so I'm cranking out the garments!  I have the blouse and this dress done as 2 out of 5 garments.  I have 5 days to get 2 skirts and a short sleeved jacket done.  *sigh* kidding, right?  Every year I try this.  I always get some interesting things done, but never the whole wardrobe.  I guess a wardrobe catch-up post is in order.  I still haven't finished last years.  Should I have tackled that first?  Of course not!


OK, just one more picture.  Here's the back:

I'm pretty happy with the fit, I may tweak the sleeves a bit.
I don't think these little issues would've been worth making a muslin for.  There are some under-bust wrinkles that indicate tightness, but when I lose another couple of pounds I'll probably have to take it in anyway.

Once again, I'm wallowing in Marfy bliss.

So Capital Chic!

I rocked this pattern!  I need like 27 more of these!

OK, I must give a lot of the love credit to the fabric which she still has in stock here.

Pattern Description: As per Capital Chic: "Bellini is a loose fitting, cap sleeved blouse with either a cutaway collar or a scalloped collar. This blouse is designed to be worn with the top button closed but can easily be worn with the neck open. It is a versatile basic that will add options to any wardrobe. The blouse closes with buttons at the centre front and features bias-bound armholes, a machine rolled hem and french seams throughout. Full illustrated instructions for these techniques are included." Super cute, instant gratification top which can be as dressy or as casual as you choose.

Pattern Sizing: This comes in sizes 10 through 18 which are all included in one pdf. I looked at the size chart and my measurements most closely resembled a 16 which is one size larger than I wear in big 4. Their size chart is here.  

Bellini front

Were the instructions easy to follow? I like the instructions. They are well written compared to many of the independent pattern companies. They are well illustrated and include a the finished garment measurements (which were accurate BTW). 
* Instructions included for French seams which really add to this simple blouse.
* Well written collar application instructions! It instructs to machine stitch but I chose to hand stitch while watching TV.
* I took a short cut and serged and hemmed the sleeves instead of using the recommended bias trim.

I didn't use the pattern layout because I cut on the bias, but it looked quite accurate.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the simplicity, especially the shoulders and lack of sleeves.

Bellini back

Fabric Used: Absolutely DEEEEVINE silk charmeuse with the cutest little Valentino V's woven into the print that I got at a great price at Sew Much Fabric. It being 60" makes it so much easier to cut on the bias than 45". I highly recommend that if you love bias cut charmeuse like me, you need to grab all the 60" that you can find and squirrel it.
I cut the collar from a white piece that I have in stash.

I know that some people don't care for pdf patterns, one thing that I really love about them is the ability to print twice. This is super handy when you are printing single layer for the matching of fabric patterns. This allows me to make the most efficient layout.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added an inch or so to the

length (I'm 6 feet tall). The only fit change that I needed to make is that the arms were too tight for my heavy biceps. next time I will extend the opening, this time I just shortened them and the hem and they fit fine. The sleeve measures about 13" and my upper arms are about 15", so you might want to check this.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Heck yes! I'm already planning more!

Conclusion: This is a great new pattern company. They don't have too many patterns out there, but they are well drafted with good instructions and great customer service. You can down load the pattern file up to 3 times and it includes a pdf for home printing (8 1/2 X 11) and a pdf that you can have printed if you don't want to print and tape at home. This also includes a pdf for instructions.

Hello Capital Chic

I stumbled across a new indie pattern.

Ya know, one of those that lets you download the pdf and print it while 'out' to lunch at your office.
These days it seem like every blogger on the planet is starting their own downloadable pattern co and very few of them get my attention, much less excite me enough to put down the Marfy catalog.
I resisted, for a few hours.  Yes, a few hours.

Maybe its the shades, but I fell hard for the Bellini

I totally trust Handmade by Heather, and she highly recommends them. She totally rocks the martini dress and the Bellini blouse (notice a trend?)  How can you not love chic clothes named after sip-worthy drinks.

Capital Chic is based in London and I'm quite a sucker for everything British!

Check out her stuff here.  Talk about getting in on the ground floor, she's been online since like June 26th.  I can tell you, this is a lady who didn't walk into this blindly, she's done her homework *for the most part*. I fell in love with this scrumptious navy silk charmeuse with white polka dots, and the simplicity of the Bellini is just perfect.

I heard the gasp, "silk charmeuse? new pattern company? NO MUSLIN?"  What a skeptic…

OK, I'm ever the analyst…
Measure twice, cut once

Finished Marfy 3512 and Bellini front

You certainly don't walk into this blindly.  Her size chart is quite clearly state here, and she provides the actual garment measurements in the pdf that you download.  According to her size chart, I'm a 16.  OK, I can take it, I'm a 16 (in the top).  Nobodies fault but mine, I can accept it.

The silhouette relatively matches Marfy 3512, so you simply compare.

Oh, you compare the finished garment, front to front, back to back.
As you can see, the shoulders which looked slopey at first follow the lines of one of my fave new silk blouses.

Note:  Capital Chic patterns come WITH seam allowance of 1.5 cm (or 5/8")


Look how close that shoulder line is.

Marfy 3512 and Bellini back

The waist follows closely, even the length seems to match closely. The Bust and waist measurement are stated on the pattern.  Size 16 is 40 1/2" Bust and 39" waist.

Hmmmh.

This looks so simple.  No sleeve cap to over-ease, collar can always be worn open if its too small.

Oh, and for those of you who are skeptics about the whole pdf pattern thing…

Capital Chic

I LOVE bias cut silk, but it requires either a whole pattern piece (not for cutting on the fold) or that you cut on the fold.  Cutting on the fold it a total PITA on the bias. (what's the French word for that?  it sounds like something that should be referred to in French)  It isn't very fabric efficient to begin with and when you have to piece and fold and double back its easy to run out of fabric before you run out of pattern.

Pdf patterns that can be printed twice solves this.  Just tape the two halves together t the fold line you you are free to layout single layer.  This would also help with matching stripes, plaids or border prints.

I did a quick read through of the pattern instructions and I like the fact that they include french seams.

Stay tuned, I think I'm going to like this.

Sewing plans for fall

Its that time of the year again, Labor Day... the beginning of fall.
The most welcome time of year in Texas because the temperature no longer spikes in the triple digits, and the mornings are a balmy 77 degrees.

We joyously make plans for fall wardrobes.

Break-out our winter sweaters (short sleeved, cotton of course) and our winter coats (in cotton and you guessed it, short sleeved) and move those tank tops and shorts to the second drawer.

Time to put away your white tank dress and bring out the black one with the cap sleeves.

The patternreview.com wardrobe contest begins September 1, and this year there are 4 garments required for the month.  Surely I can put together 4 pieces, right? 

Maybe.
I already have 2 of the 4 pieces laid out, all I have to do is hold off on cutting until Sunday.  The pants are my go to pants pattern from BWOF 7-2009 as seen here.  I made 3 pairs back in 2009, but I've worn the lining out of all 3, and one pair has a hole in the seat.  So, I took apart the pair with the hole and laid them out on 3 different pieces of fabric.  I have navy, black pinstripe and gray.  The black pinstripe should go with the wardrobe.



Marfy 2314 layout

Marfy 2314 was suposed to be with last years wardrobe, but I lost the pattern...  this year I plan to make it with the shorter sleeves, in red polka dots from Fine Fabrics.com when she had a rare sale. 

This lays uncut on part of my HUGE desk at work.  Being able to sew at work is a great incentive to bring lunch and not go out and over eat.

The other blouse is a metamorphasis of Marfy 2315 with the left side duplicated.  I like the drape on the right side, but I'm not sure how well it will wear.  For the picture above I sliced the drawing in half and pasted 2 left sides together.  I love the red chiffon with shear sleeves and red underlay for the body.

The skirt is Marfy 2280, my first one is in navy leopard on the right.  I love this skirt, super easy and I will even shorten it a couple of inches.  It will look good blocked in black an white (as I grabbed from Pintrest).

I love the tweed for the dress, especially if I can work out some black leather or red trim. We'll see, its pretty bulky.

That's it for the wardrobe plans.  Last year I completed 2 out of the 4 garments, this year I'm shooting for 3!

Subject to change of course...

Whew! Marfy 1903

I am making progress on *the* shirt. I sure hope I like it, it seems a bit wild for an interview. In fact, I am not sure where I would wear it. I don't have any flamenco dancing planned. I will have to see how it looks under a jacket.

I have the attachment done on the one easy side, but I still haven't really figured out how I am going to do that on the outside. I am leaning towards a button placket like she suggested.

This is actually much more wearable than it looks. I wore it around the house a bit (mostly trying to get a good photo) and it doesn't seem to gap as much as I thought it would.

Now, I am going to have to bite the bullet ad let the sides of that jacket out so that I can finish these sleeves. I think I am going to have to make cuffs in order to keep sleeve fluff from spilling out.

Good day sewing

I finished my tuxedo shirt, even if the picture is a little off color and grainy.

I also made progress fitting my jacket:

The shoulder and the sleeves look better. I took about half an inch out of the sleeves, and moved them in (made the shoulders narrower) about 3/8 and inch. I have also gained about 7 lbs in the last month *ugh*.

I still need to steam the sleeve caps and the pleats, but it definitely doesn't hang now. The peplum hangs funny because there is a pin caught on my sleeves.

Burda 1-2008-107 shirt

I am making good progess on my next shirt, this would make it 4 since my vacation started!

I actually have sleeves on it, but I need to put the cuffs on.

I like the way that it fits for the most part, even with the jacket:

I think that I am going to lower the front neckline, even if it means recutting (lengthening) the collar.

Other than that, throw on some pearl buttons, those french cuffs and I am DONE.

Then I can move on to that wool jacket, a skirt or some pants.

I guess when I run out of fabric I will have to go back to work.

Good Wednesday Musings

I finished another garment for the wardrobe contest, Yeah! Wasn't it beautiful out there this morning!

I made progress on another: This is the tuxedo shirt from Burda from January 2008, and the fit is really good! I love the way those stripes line up!

I even had a great greek salad for lunch at Barnaby's with my good friend Peggy.

Then I went to an interview which went well.

Since we are in the zen weather period in Houston and the weather was phenominal this afternoon (like this morning as you can see above), I went home and sipped a margarita on the back porch.

The day couldn't have been any better if I had bought fabric!

Oh wait, UPS came this evening:

That picture does nothing for those colors! I also got some nice basic black suiting.

I will sleep will with visions of silk twill and striped cottong shirting dancing in my head.

Hhmmm - Marfy 1903 closure?

I have this blouse cut out (except for the facings which are of plain silk twill), and I am thinking through my construction steps. I can't figure out how I am going to close it!

My first instinct is to go with an invisible zipper, but the fabric is a bit too delicate for that, and the curve of the seam would make it a challenge.

The drawing to the right, and the diagram below indicate that you are too use buttons, but Marfy usually includes markings for buttons when they are to be used. If I go with buttons between the 'F' and 'H' markings, I would have to put them on the left side underneath as well as the right side. In other words, the underlay would have to be secured as well as the overlay. I suppose I could do this and have them button to the inside, but that might be a little awkward.

Any suggestions? I have made and worn crossover tops before, and really liked them, but they all had wrap around ties. I suppose I could draft that, but it isn't what I want with this print.

One more change that I think I will make is to put button cuffs on the sleeves. As you can see above, they are designed to have elastic at the wrists, but I don't think that will look very good under a jacket. I am concerned about the fullness of the sleeves as it is, I don't want them sliding up when put my jacket on, or tumbling out from underneath like I am a magician hiding a magic scarf.

With Facings

Since I know that you wanted play by play action...

I like the front, it fits well, and it isn't too tight through the shoulders. I still need to add the structure to the shoulder/back area, but I need more batting for that.

Funny thing about that, I remembered to buy some at Universal, but I only got half a yard and it isn't long enough and I don't want to have to piece it. So, I am going to make it into a bunch of shoulder pads, and get more for the whole shoulder/back pieces.

I am hoping that more shoulder structure will get some of those wrinkles from under my arms.

Speaking of the back:

I really like the fit better since I added a couple of inches to that back belt. I don't know what they were thinking making it too short, but it just looked bad.

I took Jenni's advice and understitched the pleats and they are nice and crisp, even though they pull a little from their basting thread as well.

As for the buttons, I have a few in my stash that will work:

I am actually leaning towards the smaller square ones at the top. I really don't like the great big square ones, but the round ones would work.

What do you think?

I really should go and get more of that batting and get this thing done, but I don't feel like getting out this afternoon.

I had forgotten how much Friday afternoons suck when you are unemployed.

No one wants to talk to anyone new on Fridays. I had an interview last Friday and didn't get a call back for a second interview this week.

Nothing good ever happens on Fridays when you are looking for work.

This just may work out...

Update on Vogue 1126 jacket: I am not sure about the look of the pockets, and the band could have been moved down even more to lengthen the look.

I haven't padded the shoulders and the back yet, I am hoping that will help that funny wrinkle between the bust point and the side seam. If not, I will try to take it up under the arm and see if that will help.

I really think that I will like it. I will post about what buttons to use as soon as I get the facing sewn on. I have a couple in mind from my stash. The sleeves are pretty comfortable and plenty long. I added 2" because with Vogue, you never can tell.

Just one of those days...

They postponed my interview until lunch time on Friday. I test on Saturday, so I tried to put it off until Monday. We all know how productive and timely Friday meeting are, Grrrrr.

Just to make this better, it might rain on Friday. At leasts I won't be out in black wool in 90 degree heat!

I am making progress on my Vogue 1126 jacket! Yes, it will have sleeves...

The back it going to be really cute if I can get past that little fitting issue, or lose 10 lbs.

Oh, and I got my nails done and it looks crappy, NIIIICE!

Finally! Marfy 9468

I am going to declare this done! I am not smiling much because I am standing in smooshy grass, and it is just about to rain -AGAIN-

Look at the great fit on those shoulders:

Now to finish my review, then I can get back to that suit jacket. *Or, I could study*

Marfy Amore!

Why do I ever sew anything else, ever? Why did I ever doubt you, those pockets are fantastic, except I didn't put in the zippers. I thought that putting them in the pockets would dress it down a bit, and I am dressing things up.

Look at that length! I usually have to add 2", not shorten.

*sigh* I can go to bed happy, even though my phone didn't ring once today. Thats OK, I have more Marfy's!

I still need to do the serging, and the hem. I also need to find some little buttons. Oh, the inner collar seam needs sewn, and the sleeves cuffed.

I also need to write up the process on those pockets.

Tomorrow, McCall's 5597 assembly, and maybe cutting that vogue suit.
I will also order some more Marfy's...

White Shirt Bliss

I have actually been sewing a bit lately. I have gotten one of those dear little pockets on that white shirt, even though I am not terribly proud of myself.

It is harder than it looks, at least I thought so. I thought that having the pocket on a seam would make it easier, but the seam allowances actually make it really bulky. The bulkiness of the seam allowances on the sides of the pocket made it more difficult to get the welts on the pockets close together.

I would skip the pocket on the other side, but the fabric is a bit thin, and the double layer makes it a bit more opaque.

Another thing that I noticed about this pattern, that front band is more narrow than many shirts that you see. I guess I didn't make a note of that when I laid out the pattern pieces. I don't think it looks bad, I rather like it, but it may have an affect on the size of buttons that I use.

What's Next...

Now that I have sent that lined jacket off to the cleaners, I am moving on. Filing for unemployment this afternoon really inspired me to get something interview like on the road. I am going to start with this quasi-professional shirt that you can download for free here: http://manequim.abril.com.br/faca-e-use/moldes/molde-de-blusa-de-tricoline-448174.shtml

I know, accountant like things that are in rows and columns, but how can you argue with "free down loadable," the only down side is that my Portuguese is a bit rusty. I know that I should be looking for something more fall like with long sleeves, but it is so hard to get in the fall spirit when it is 90 outside.

I am also working on those UFO's. I dug out the sleeves for the white blouse this morning, so I hope to get that done this weekend.

I also tried on a skirt that I started for another wardrobe project last May that I will get to pretty soon. This skirt is in black with a red pinstripe, which gave me a good opportunity to turn those stripes cross grain in the hem insets on the sides. The skirt is underlined with silk organza for a nice crispness that swings when I walk. I will post pictures tomorrow.

Thank goodness I don't have to work for a living, yet.

Best Laid Plans...

Plan A

Nice, but a bit too casual for the new job search environment. That is a shame because the only thing that I have actually started is the BWOF wrap top in the upper right hand corner.

I would like to keep the green and blue paisley in the wrap top with the ruffle. Are ruffles a no-no at interviews? Probably.

I will just have to turn that ruffle into a collar.

Plan B

I really like the suit Upper Left

(Vogue 1162 Tracy Reese)

I am probably not going to ust the red silk, it really doesn't fit in.

I really like those blouses and skirts.

I guess I will have to go fabric shopping tomorrow and find some nice charcoal and grab about 4 yards.