Fonte Colombo

Fonte Colombo is called "The Franciscan Sinai." It is considered sacred and was a place Francis loved. He returned here in September of 1223. He fasted on bread and water, prayed alone in his little cave for a month and then dictated his "rule" to brother Leo for his order of friars. This "rule" was approved by Pope Honorius III in November of 1223 and still governs the order of the friars minor today, some 800 years later. (There's a lot more to the story but that's the quick version!)

It is beautiful. It is quiet. On the hillside, it is lush and green and it does feel holy. You feel as though you have stepped into a sacred space. I could have spent the entire day there, (or forever!) meditating, praying and even drawing. I hope one day to go back, when I am in no hurry and just "be."

There is a feeling of safety and peace in this place. I am welling up just thinking about it.

I saw a whole 5 people there outside of my parents and Mauro. 3 were Franciscan monks who probably live there. One was a man we saw in the newer church hanging an icon of the Madonna and trying not to drop her. (My Mom went over and helped him.) And one, other gentleman who was down on one of the pathways.

We had a moment of blue sky when we arrived and then it began to drizzle when I left the Holy Grotto. It felt like mist.

Fonte Colombo

The Cammino di Francesco , or walking path that leads to all the sacred Franciscan sites in the Rieti Valley

(and elsewhere) including Fonte Columbo. Someday ...

The Cloister

The path down to one of the churches Francis loved so much ...

... the Chapel of the Magdalene ...

Brother Leo celebrated Masses here with Francis and to the left

of the altar, in the corner of the window is the "Tau" written

by Francis himself.

The path takes you down to what feels almost like a secret ...

past the beautiful lush nature he loved ...

down steep winding stone steps

to the narrow cave ...

the Holy Grotto of St. Francis

I imagined him here praying in the lush green surroundings ...

in solitude

hearing the sounds of leaves rustling

the cool breeze ...

and flowers coming up through the fallen leaves ...

and I catch a glimpse ...

grace

solitude

peace

&

gratitude

I try to take them with me,

as I continue on my way

Greccio

After being at the Greccio Sanctuary we headed to the town. It was, of course, charming with a lovely little town square but we were very hungry and the place looked deserted. This might have had to do with the rather grey weather and occasional showers.

I was so hungry I was ready to chew my arm off so Mauro suggested this little restaurant in Contigliano between Greccio and Fonte Columbo, which was our next destination. The outside of the building said "Ingresso" but the business card says "il Giardino." The family was eating lunch in this little open room toward the entrance but the waiter lead us to a banquet room. We were the only ones there. The chairs had white slip covers with bows, as if they were bridesmaids at a banquet and I didn't know what to expect.

That's the funny about traveling, you never know. I ate more during that meal than I normally eat over the course of three days. We had some of the best antipasti of my life (what do they do to the mushrooms? Sprinkle them with fairy dust?!) And I am still trying to figure out what they were calling bread crumbs on the grilled zucchini and eggplant. There were giant plates of fabulous homemade pasta with truffles and salad and steamed dark greens ... I couldn't move.

From what it looked like, they do banquet-style meals there. Can you imagine? You'd have to put me in a wheel barrow to get me out of there.

Greccio, May 2010

il Giardino, Cotigliano (Rieti Valley)

Mmmmm ...

Up next ... peaceful and sacred Fonte Columbo

Road to the Rieti Valley

Sometimes the road you're traveling is just as beautiful as the destination ...

We have to remember to enjoy the ride.

My mom and were obsessed with these trees and have no idea what they are. Finally, we told Mauro to pull over so we could take pictures. The trunks looked like manzanita and there are pinkish purple leaves that grow under the green leaves close to the branches. Beautiful right? Any ideas what they are?

Look lovingly on the present,

for it holds the only things

that are forever true.

~from A Course in Miracles

Greccio ... The Sanctuary

The day after we arrived in Assisi we hired a driver to take us down to two of St. Francis' sanctuaries in the Rieti Valley. Rieti is South of Assisi and actually in Lazio (not Umbria) and is about 1 1/2 from Rome.

Our driver Mauro ended up being a completely awesome guy, (which is especially great on a day when you are going be in the car for 3 hours or more!) And, topping it off, we all became friends. We discussed everything from Francis to the Italian neorealist cinema of the post war era. He's the coolest.

Greccio Sanctuary is a couple kilometers from the town of Greccio and about 1,000 meters up on Mount Lacerone and looks out over the beautiful Rieti Valley. We had some crazy weather and quite a bit of rain, but even with that it was serene and beautiful.

Francis first came to the Rieti Valley around 1209 and love this place. It is easy to see why. On a return trip he began what is now a yearly tradition around the world.

Christmas Eve in 1223 he created the first ever living nativity or "crèche"

The Chapel of the Crèche

Grotto of the Crib

The Chapel of the crèche was built the year Francis was canonized in 1228,

on the site where that first living nativity took place.

Original Refectory

Cell of St. Francis (where he slept)

Dormitory of St. Bonaventure

The choir

Chapel of St. Francis

It was so beautiful and even with a groups of school kids, pilgrims and nuns, it was still peaceful and felt very sacred. The rain and the nuns singing made it feel even more mystical. I filmed all this as well, so eventually you will all see it.

They still do living nativities here at Christmastime ... wouldn't that be amazing?

For more of the sanctuary's treasures, see below!

Greccio: The New Church and Crèches

As you leave the dormitory and chapel and go outside, you see The New Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Francis across the stone courtyard, which also houses 20th century nativities from all around the world. Each nativity is unique and beautiful. Many are set into the wall and are designed with "forced perspective" and look like they go back forever.

It was very dark and difficult to take photos, but we tried! One of my favorites was an eskimo nativity. You will have to use your imagination because I couldn't get a shot of it because it was impossibly dark. (Think "It's a Small World" but more rustic and quaint!)

Aren't they lovely? We were in there with a sweet group of nuns and it was fun to hear everyone "ooohing and aaahhhing" at these creative and charming little wonders.