Bridal Challenge - The Dress and Veil

 

Wow, this was challenging!  There were several iterations for the bodice, first in paper, then muslin, and then muslin again.  I should have made a fourth, but I was too lazy.  After the third, I marked a place to make an adjustment on the pattern and then went with it.  According to Mr. Burbidge’s article in Doll Reader, his reproduction dress was of bridal satin of silk/rayon in antique ivory.  The bodice had two layers of lining, one of organdy and one of cotton gauze. 

 

For my doll, I had selected silk/satin or charmeuse.  Charmeuse is not a particularly easy fabric with which to work.  I also selected beaded and sequined netting as I did not really want to do all the beading and embroidery of the original dress or the reproduction dress. Once I had all the pattern pieces for the bodice and skirt drafted and ready to cut, I started second-guessing all my decisions.  Yes, ALL of them!  I was afraid the silk for the slip would tear, I was afraid I couldn’t do the sewing on the charmeuse as it is a tricky fabric, and I didn’t know if the beaded net would be too much and look all wrong.  I was at a dead stop.  

Two weeks had passed since I wrote the above paragraph. Here is where I am, I used the charmeuse, yes, I did.  I would not suggest it unless one has superior sewing skills.  I am not that person, but I had to soldier on.  I went back to the article to see what Mr. Burgess used and decided to ADD the extra layer of cotton for the bodice.  I thought the scale of it would not work, but even in a smaller doll, this is a good idea, using Swiss Batiste, Silk organdy, and silk charmeuse.  The pieces were basted together and treated each as one section of the bodice then sewn together on the machine. 

 

I made the skirt in three pieces as well only joining them at the end at the waistline. 

 

The veil is lace with attached silk netting.  It, too, will be, or maybe embellished with beads, sequins, and crystals.

Today, as of this writing.  I have not yet completed this dress.  It has lain packed away for a few years. The truth is that Mr. Burbidge has died but was able to send him pictures of the dress this far.   I have lost all verve for this project.  However, the train is completed as a separate piece, if I pick it up again, will be attached via hooks and loops at the center back.  And then all that is left is beading, sequins, crystals, and whatever else I want to make it fussier and a real wedding dress. 

 

Remember my doll is a doll of the period of the late 1800s, so it is out of context in this 20^th century dress.  But the project was fun, and I was thrilled to be able to work with my sewing idol.  He was one of the highlights of my sewing career. 

 

A special note.  I may be off the blog for a few weeks as I complete two projects, impossibly with the same deadline. I appreciate your patience.  Hope and joy to all.  Happy Thanksgiving to you, too. 

Bridal Challenge

 

I have a project I would like to tell you about, but it is anachronistic and I do not want my purist friends to go crazy.  I mean I would not do this unless there was a real reason for the project and there is a reason.  This is a story of six degrees of separation.  A friend of mine, Nancy, is a friend of someone I idolize, the late Mr. John Burbidge.  (Les Petites Dames des Modes see previous post:

http://creativedoll.blogspot.com/2008/02/who-is-john-burbidge.html)  

I talked and talked about him when we had a chance.  One day she let the bomb drop.  I know him, you know.  My jaw dropped.  I asked her a billion questions.   My friend Nancy was the hairdresser for his Little Ladies.  She wigged and styled each one.  I was flabbergasted but fascinated as well.  How had I not known about this?  We had known each other for years.  

      One day I answered the phone and Mr. Burbidge was on the other line.  He said, “Hi, Kathi, this is John Burbidge, I understand you like my work!”  My response?  “Oh! Hi!  Uh, wait a minute, I have to sit down!”  Well, we had the best conversation in the whole world.  It was wonderful.  We talked about pattern making, methods of making them, design and interpretation and so many other things.  30 minutes later, I was out of the house on my way to an appointment and calling my husband.  I think I was hyperventilating.     

      Well a few days later, a package arrived in the mail and he had sent me a kind note and a copy of a pattern he created for Doll Reader magazine in 1987.  He made a replica of Sarah Ferguson’s wedding gown worn for her marriage to Prince Andrew.  In our conversation, I wondered if I could execute one of his patterns knowing adjustments for size and scale could be difficult.  That was my challenge; make the dress, anyway I wanted on a smaller scale than his 30” mannequins, and to make it not the same, that is to say, to use the basics and create something different.  

I chose three dolls that were in miniature scales and from those three I would choose one for which to make this dress.  

      Dear purist friends this is where we might part ways, but I will go back to era-correct soon.  I promise.  The figure is an antique reproduction created by Alice Leverett called the Ultimate Fashion Doll™, (www.justalice.com) my favorite doll and my “play doll”.  She is the doll for which I create just for me. 

(Note: Ultimate Fashion Dolls are no longer in production) 

      I am following the patterns (there are no construction directions) and creating a different “modern” wedding gown based on the pattern, but having to think about things such as pattern design, fitting, scale, fabrics, etc.  My hope is to share this project with you as I go along.  

      Please forgive me using my wonderful antique reproduction as a modern gown mannequin, but I have not another doll this size.  (Emilie Claire is off with Ian, doing who knows what, but never mind she is a reproduction, too.)  

My three choices were a Franklin Mint wedding doll.  (At least I think it was Franklin Mint.  She is quite pretty, and I play with her a bit.) She is however meant to be either a 1980s doll when the Peter Fox wedding boot was popular or more of a Belle Epoch bride doll.  She has a pretty face and body, lots of potential with her.  The middle doll is the Alice Leverette Ultimate Fashion doll.  And the far right is a Robert Tonner Tiny Kitty.  Though she is more contemporary in style and appearance I felt I could better use the size and scale of the 12” Ultimate Fashion Doll.  I may yet make one for Tiny Kitty as well.  I do not know. 

Coming up:  We will see her contemporary undergarments, progression on the dress, and maybe an accessory or two.  

As always, 

Have Fun!

Kathi

Tiny Kitty Returns!

As promised I am back again working on Tiny Kitty and her new cotton dress.  Thought I would share the inspiration dress with you so here it is. 

1910

While figuring out the pattern, I had been diligently looking for my blue striped fabric. THE perfect fabric you know you have but for some reason you are unable to locate it?  Yesterday I finally found and sadly, there is not enough to create the dress.  And if there was, there is certainly insufficient fabric for mistakes.  Curses!!!  (Because you know I will make a mistake.) 

Blue solid and striped fabrics

Since my Tiny Kitty has these blue ribbons as accents on her slip, I wanted to keep everything for this figure in blue, but it is not to be.  Serendipity, however, is still alive and kicking in my favor.  I have a found another wonderful fabric in my stash. The fabric is a pretty pink, white and blue striped oxford shirt fabric.  It is nice and soft, but still has the sizing that oxford cloth sometimes has.  I am hoping that will work in my favor. The solid pink fabric is handkerchief linen, very soft.    White Swiss batiste has been selected for the lining or base garment. 

Pink solid and striped fabrics

I have been working on the pattern and stitched it together.  Though it appears to work, I think there is something wrong with it.   I am not sure what it is, but I am thinking I have a small error.  I am sure I will figure it out as I go.  (At least there is a lot of fabric here…just in case!)  And I have no idea at this writing how I am going to recreate the closures.  It also appears I need to create a chemisette for this dress so she will have the pretty eyelet collar.  I purchased some new eyelet form Urban Gardens Fabrics and I think it will be perfect.  If not, well, I’ll surprise you with something.  Or will try. 

Okay, need to get busy making.  Will update you with the progress.  Until then,

drafted pattern pieces

Have Fun! 

Kathi

A new Slip for Kitty Collier

It never pays to rush things.  I got a late start on tiny Kitty’s slip this week.  Sunday was my first opportunity to continue her undergarments.  I am afraid it shows.  A couple of errors in the hurrying up for the blog, and then I realized I do not really need to hurry, do I? 

I totally forgot about the adjustment to make in the hip area of the corset, which made my slip just a tiny bit, maybe one seam allowance, tight.  I hate ripping seams after so much work.  At the last minute I decided to sew up the back seam, (I was going to leave it open, but who wants to sit on buttons?) The corset strings create a bit of a bump as well.  I can fix it.    

My original intention was to have a princess styled silhouette, but the more information I had it became apparent a narrower shape would be required.  I narrowed the panels, added lace, and cut off the excess slip fabric from the bodice and the hem.  I added lace straps instead. 

The pictures below show the working out of the pattern and the changing the silhouette. 

Kathi 

I chose this picture as an inspiration. 

Pattern made and sample slip tested.  Ready to cut out and sew. 

Advice for succession sewing.  Lay out the pieces in the order for which they are assembled, pick one up and sew, then to the next, and on and on.  I leave the center back open.

First fitting with primary seam completed for French seaming.  The original intentions was to leave the back open and close the length.  

When adding laces, interview the laces you have.  Do scallops go with geometric designs?  Does one lace and width llook well with another?   

As you can see here, I did not use any of the others and opted to add a simple edging with a beading lace accent.  In other words I kept it simple more or less with my inspiration.  

Here are the laces sewn on, and the slip portions cut away from the laces.  

Completed Slip Front

Completed Slip Back

 (I wonder if I should take this next week to fix the slip and show you the repaired items, re-lace the corset, etc.  At least, the very least, Kitty is more covered and she is becoming more comfortable with the camera. )

Time Flies!

    I moved two years ago, well a little more than that, and I am still amazed at the time it has taken me to downsize.  I am still working at it!  And I thought it would take me just 6 WEEKS!!  I soldier on.  I am in my umpteenth iteration of furniture and where it should go, and selling things an replacing things, but we finally believe we have a plan.  We thought so before but that is my story and I am sticking to it.  Both of us have lost our parents.  My mother-in-law passed away in April.  We keep adjusting to our new normal, as does everyone.  But we also count our blessings and hope that all of you are able to keep your dolling as a part of joy and that it gets you through your tough spots.  

    It has been since January posting on this blog.  And believe it or not, I have done a few things, with a list of a LOT more.  I want to do better posting on the blog.  (Science and technology have gotten in the way and this is a new try in a new technology for me to upload, so we'll see how it works.  If you are reading this, it does, and now I need to perfect it.)  All this chasing technology and learning, probably good for my mind, but not my wallet.  I would rather be buying fabric.  

    The last Convention I went to for United Federation of Doll Clubs was in Washington D.C.  While looking at the display, I and many others, went gaga over the Chiffonette doll and her wardrobe.  I attended the luncheon of Sylvia McNeil, and received the book of her doll, it is thought it be a Huret, and have longed to make those child dresses of the 1860's.  They are quite simple in look if not in execution.  And one can get many looks from one pattern, by changing trims and changing fabrics.  Susan Sirkis, long my doll dressing idol, did a pattern CD of the Lilas, and I used her patterns with some adjustments to use for my dolls.  So, with so much inspiration form the Chiffonette display and Susan's patterns I went to work on my little 6" Rohmer reproduction.  The porcelain for my doll was created for me by my friend  Kate, and her body was from Create a Doll.  A beautiful tiny leather body.  She is 6" tall. I haven't named her.  

    I decided to gather her and her wardrobe together in a shadow box from Michael's.  I hope you will enjoy her, and this little interlude will give me a little more time to do more posts to share with you.  Many projects planned for the summer.  

    To all the Mothers out there, Happy Mother's Day and I hope all you do is appreciated.  

Kathi