The Darling Gift Bag Tutorial

I love putting together themed gift bags and care packages for friends and family whenever I get the chance, and this tiny patchwork bag is perfect for that sort of thing. Pick a theme -- stationery supplies, beauty items, sewing notions, sweet treats -- and fill this mini tote to the top with small treasures. I find that aside from the winter holidays, late spring is usually the time when I most need gifts for Easter, birthdays, Mother's Day, and the inevitable celebrations as we head into summer. 

It's always fun to make the bag itself part of the present, and you can customize the fabric you use for your patchwork squares to fit the recipient. If you need a whole lot of bags in a hurry, try replacing the patchwork panel on each side with a single fabric rectangle for faster sewing. I hope this hardworking little pattern will be incredibly useful to you in the months ahead!

The Darling Gift Bag Tutorial

Finished Size: 6 1/2" x 7" x 3" (including handle)

All seam allowances are 1/4".

Materials

From assorted scraps, cut...

- (12) red squares, 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" (A)

- (12) low volume squares with red accents, 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" (B)

*Note: for a faster project, replace all the 1 1/2" squares with 2 rectangles, 4 1/2" x 3 1/2", cut from the same feature print.

From 10" square of vintage floral red print, cut...

- (2) squares, 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" (C)

From fat eighth of low volume music print, cut...

- (2) rectangles, 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" (D)

- (2) rectangles, 3 1/2" x 2 1/2" (E)

- (1) rectangle, 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" (F)

From long scrap of red scallop stripe print, cut...

- (1) rectangle, 12 1/2" x 2" (G)

From fat quarter of batting, cut...

- (2) rectangles, 4 1/2" x 5 1/2" (H)

- (2) rectangles, 3 1/2" x 5 1/2" (I)

- (1) rectangle, 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" (J)

From low volume floral print, cut...

- (2) rectangles, 4 1/2" x 5 1/2" (K)

- (2) rectangles, 3 1/2" x 5 1/2" (L)

- (1) rectangle, 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" (M)

Additional supplies: button, 5 1/2" piece of thin white elastic cord, matching thread, adhesive basting spray, binding clips.

Directions

1. Split the A and B squares in half into 2 groups of 12, 4 squares across and 3 squares down, alternating the A and B squares as shown. Sew each group of 12 together. Note: If you are using 2 rectangles, 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" instead, you may skip this step.

2. Spray the back of each patchwork piece with adhesive basting spray and attach to the lower edge of an H batting rectangle. Quilt as desired. 

3. Line the lower long edge of a D rectangle up with the top of the patchwork piece from step 2 with right sides together (the D rectangle should be upside down) and stitch them together along the edge (see photo). Flip the D rectangle up and away from the patchwork so that the wrong side of the piece is against the upper half of the batting. Press. Topstitch 1/8" from either side of the seam. Repeat with the other patchwork piece and D rectangle to give you 2 finished main panels.

4. Spray the back of each C square with adhesive basting spray and attach to the lower edge of an I batting rectangle. Repeat step 3 directions, using E rectangles to finish the 2 side panels.

5. Spray the back of the F rectangle and attach it to the J batting rectangle to finish the bottom panel. 

6. Fold the elastic piece in half to make a loop, placing the raw edges centered on the top edge of the back main panel. Stitch back and forth over this 1/8" from the edge to hold it in place.

7. Make the handle by folding the G strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Unfold and then fold each long edge in to meet in the center and press again. Without unfolding, refold along the first line so that the raw edges are trapped in the middle. (You are actually making double fold quilt binding.) Topstitch along each long edge to hold the sides together and create a strap. Cut the strap in half so that each piece is 6 1/4" long.

8. Use binding clips to hold the raw edges of a strap in place along the top edge of a main panel piece so that the outer edge of the strap is 3/4" from the side edge of the panel. Stitch in place 1/8" from the edge. Repeat with the other strap on the other main panel.

9. Line up the lower edge of a main panel with a long edge of the bottom panel, right sides together, and sew together. Press the seam towards the main panel. Repeat with the other main panel on the other long edge of the bottom panel.

10. Line up the lower edge of a side panel with a short edge of the bottom panel, right sides together. Sew along the lower edge of the side panel first, stopping 1/4" from each corner and backstitching. Do the same on the other side with the other side panel.

11. Line up the side edges of a side panel with the side edges of the main panels and hold them together with binding clips as well (see photo), carefully matching up the seam that goes down the middle of each panel first. Sew along the side edges, starting at the top of the panel and going just past the 1/4" mark before the lower edge before backstitching. Repeat with the other side panel. 

You should now have a finished bag exterior. Turn the exterior right side out.

12. Now repeat steps 9-11 with the K, L, and M rectangles to create the bag lining with ONE EXCEPTION: when repeating step 9, leave a 3" gap in the middle on one side as you stitch the main panel to the bottom panel so that you'll be able to turn the bag right side out. 

Do NOT turn the bag lining right side out when you finish this step.

14. Place the bag exterior inside the bag lining so that the right sides are together. Carefully line up the side seams and top edges, making sure that the straps and elastic loop are sandwiched between the exterior and lining.

15. Stitch all the way around the top edge of the bag. Gently pull the bag right side out through the gap in the lining. 

16. Tuck the raw edges inside the gap in the lining and stitch it closed, backstitching at both ends.

17. Push the lining inside the bag, press carefully as needed, and then topstitch 1/8" from the top edge of the bag. 

18. Center a button on the D rectangle of the front main panel (adjusting the position depending on how tightly you want the bag to close when fastened) and stitch in place by hand. 

Now just fill the bag with goodies and share it with someone you love. Enjoy, friends!

The Cubby Pack Tutorial

We had our first official day of school yesterday, and I'm so happy to slip back into our homeschooling routine again. No babies in this house any more -- everyone's in elementary school now, with my oldest entering fifth grade this year. There was a time when I missed my life in an actual classroom, feeling a bit lost and left behind here at home. Not any more. I think I feel more content with life than I ever have before. These days spent working, teaching, sewing, designing, helping, sharing -- they are so full, so good.

The beginning of a new school year has always been one of my favorite things, and what better way to celebrate than with a free tutorial? I've been promising a pattern for this combination backpack/tote bag for a while, and who better to model the Cubby Pack for you but my own little Bear. She was so excited to wear it for the first time today!

This pattern is meant for a child, but you could easily make it work for an adult by just making the straps longer. It's actually a surprisingly simple project to sew. The most complicated part is probably threading the backpack straps, and rather than reinvent the wheel, I just send you over to a brilliant tutorial by the clever folks at Colette Patterns who have explained things far more clearly than I ever could.

I'm giving you just the basic backpack pattern here, but this is so easy to customize. Add an inner pocket or zipper pouch for smaller items. Ditch the patchwork and use just one fabric for the exterior to make it a quicker finish. Add one or two more leather closures to the top to keep things buttoned up even more firmly. For me, a tutorial is a launching pad for even more great ideas. I love to see how people play with my patterns to make just what they need!

Wouldn't this be a fun project to sew for (or even with!) your favorite student? If you make one, be sure to share a picture with all of us on Instagram -- tag it #cubbypack and tag me too @fabricmutt!

Okay, here we go!

Materials and Measurements

Finished size: 9 1/2" wide x 10" tall x 3 1/2" deep

Fabric:	For:	Cutting:
21 cotton print scraps or 1 mini charm pack	Front exterior panel patchwork	21 squares 2 1/2 x 2 1/2”
1/2 yard linen	Front ext. panel Back ext. panel	1 rectangle 7 x 14 1/2" 1 rectangle 13 x 14 1/2”
1/2 yard batting	Exterior interfacing	2 rectangles 13 x 14 1/2”
1/2 yard white apple print	Lining	2 rectangles 13 x 14 1/2”
1/4 yard red floral print	Tote handles	1 rectangle 3 x 16”
1/4 yard Pellon Craft Fuse fusible interfacing	Tote handles interfacing	1 rectangle 3 x 16”
1 1/2  yards 1 1/2” wide cotton webbing	Main straps Buckle straps	2 pieces 24” long 2 pieces 3” long
Leather scrap	Bag closure	1 strip 1 x 2 3/4”
Findings: 4 metal slides (1 1/2” wide), 1 metal snap, adhesive basting spray, chopstick or turning tool, binding clips, ruler, rotary cutter

Sewing Notes

All seams are 1/4" unless otherwise stated.
Press seams toward the darker fabric or open if you prefer.
RST = right sides together
WST = wrong sides together

Tutorial Instructions

1. Sew the 21 patchwork squares together in 3 rows of 7 as shown in the photo above. Sew the 7 x 14 1/2" linen piece to the lower long edge of the patchwork piece to form the exterior front.

2. Use the adhesive basting spray to fuse the wrong side of the exterior front and back panels to the 13 x 14 1/2" batting pieces. Topstitch 1/8" below the seam between the patchwork and linen on the exterior panel. Quilt as desired.

3. Place the two lining panels RST and trim a 2 1/2" square from both of the lower 14 1/2" edge corners. Sew the two panels together along the sides and lower edge, but do not stitch along the open corners. Also be sure to leave an opening of 6-7" along the lower edge for turning later on. Cut 2 1/2" squares out of the lower edge corners of the exterior panels also, but do not sew them together just yet.

4. Box the corners of the lining. Push down on a side seam so that it lies directly on top of the seam that holds the lower edges together, creating a triangle of batting on that side. Use your ruler to measure off a 4" line down the side of that triangle facing the lining (the side seam should be resting at the 2" line). Use a pencil or fabric marker to trace that 3" line and then use your ruler to measure and cut a 1/4" seam just beyond that (which will measure 3 1/2" long). Check that your seams match up before stitching down the pencil line. Repeat on the other side of the lining.

5. Make the tote handles just as you would make double fold bias tape. Fuse the wrong side of the handle piece to the Craft Fuse interfacing (following the manufacturers instructions). Fold the piece in half lengthwise, press, and then unfold. Now fold the long sides of the rectangle in toward the center fold and press again. Fold along that center fold again, sandwiching those raw edges in the middle, and stitch 1/8-1/16" from the edge along both long ends of the resulting 3/4" wide handle. Cut the piece in half so that you have two pieces, each 8" long.

6. On the exterior front panel, place the raw ends of one handle piece along the top edge of the panel so that the inside edge of each end lines up with the right and left sides of the center patchwork square (see above photo). Baste in place 1/8" from the top edge. Repeat with the back panel and other handle, using the placement on the front panel as a guide.

7. Attach one half of the metal snap to a short end of the leather strap according to the manufacturer's instructions, centering it about 1/2" from the short end. Center the other short end of the strap on the top edge of the back exterior panel, RST, and baste in place 1/8" from the top edge. Save the other half of the metal snap for later.

8. Make the backpack straps using the Colette tutorial found here. (Even though this tutorial uses a longer length for the long strap, it will still work for this project.) Place the finished straps RST against the back exterior panel, tightening them up so that they are as short as possible while still lying flat against the panel and not wrinkling up the fabric (see photo above -- this will keep them out of the way while you sew). Baste the ends of the long straps in place on the top edge of the panel just to the right and left of the handles. Baste the ends of the short straps in place on the right and left sides of the panel, about 1/2" above the cut out square in each corner. (BTW the photo above is after I sewed together the panels in the next step but before I boxed the corners. I had forgotten to take a photo of the strap placement and wanted to make sure you could see it before I moved on!)

9. Sew the exterior panels together along the sides and lower edge, leaving the cut out squares open just as you did with the lining -- though without the opening in the lower edge for turning. Box the lower corners of the exterior as you did in step 4 above. Turn the exterior piece right side out.

10. Slip the exterior piece inside the lining piece with RST, matching up the side seams and holding them together around the top opening with binding clips. Sew all the way around the opening. Reach in through the gap in the lining and pull the exterior of the bag out through the lining, pushing out the corners gently with a chopstick and pressing them.

11. Tuck the raw edges inside the lining gap and stitch them closed 1/8-1/16" from the edge. Push the lining down into the bag and carefully press it one last time.

12. Center the other half of your metal snap about 1/2" from the lower edge of the top middle patchwork square on the exterior front panel and fasten it in place according to the manufacturer's instructions. Finish the bag by topstitching 1/8" from the upper edge all the way around the top opening. (I recommend that you start on the back behind the left strap so that you can make it all the way around without having to stop and move straps out of the way.) Fill up your Cubby Pack with school supplies and send your student off to class!

Happy sewing, my friends!

Apple Farm Tour

It's so lovely to be working with another collection from my sweet friend Elea Lutz! Her Apple Farm line for Penny Rose Fabrics is simply adorable and just right for back-to-school projects. I've been promising you a tutorial for the child's backpack tote that I made as a sample for Spring Quilt Market, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to write one while I worked on a sample for this blog tour. I'll have the tutorial up on the blog in the next few days.

This child sized backpack is really just a tote bag with extra straps -- really handy when you or your child would rather carry the bag at your side instead. I've included a leather fastener to keep the opening closed and a zipper pouch inside for holding the little things that might fall out the top if a child bends over while wearing the backpack. For this version, I added three rows of patchwork squares -- so much fun to fussy cut with this darling fabric!

Is there anything more useful than a zipper pouch? I never met one I didn't like!

Elea's fabric...what can I say? I love it so much. Her prints are always full of vintage sweetness and cheerful colors. They make me so happy, and I love to sew with them. Apple Farm reminds me of when my daughters were little. Every fall we would drive almost an hour away from our Southern California home to a farm in the hills where we could pick apples and pumpkins. The girls absolutely loved it, and we had so much fun there over the years. These prints bring back all those great memories.

There are so many amazing people on the Apple Farm tour. I've already been enjoying pictures of all the other stops this week on Instagram. Tomorrow be sure to visit Lindsey at Fort Worth Fabric and Ange at A Little Patchwork. Both of these super talented ladies will have gorgeous things to share, I have no doubt!