Got my First Finecast Models In (with 100% Less Drama)

Yesterday evening, I came home from work to find a package on my table containing the Finecast models above.  I was a bit wary, having seen all the negatives online...but I kept telling myself that it was the internet, after all, and that people who claimed to have gone to a store and picked out the best model possible for their "reviews" most likely did just the opposite in order to get attention.

Mine were pretty much flawless.  There was a small amount of flash, which took all of a minute to scrape off.  Queek had a tiny piece of pink casting material on his back, which I picked off with my clippers. 

So here's a few positives (I know, I know...now I'm talking crazy!)  The material is crazy light, which means the Queek model, which in metal was a pain in the butt because of the precariously balanced heavy back rack, snapped together easily.  The parts, such as the arms, are socketed with triangles, which allow for really easy and sturdy construction and customization (by rotating the triangle).  Total assembly time for both models was about four-five minutes.

I'll hopefully be borrowing a metal Queek next week in order to really compare details, but the great thing with the new material vs. metal in that department straight off is I can see the details.  I've often been unable to see some of the fine detail on pewter models without priming white and then washing the model.  On the light gray, this isn't a problem.

On Monday, I'll have pictures up of my assembled models, and hopefully be able to compare the details in metal Queek vs. new Queek next week.  For now, the new Finecast is A+ in my book.

So I Ordered up Some of That Finecast!

Taking a break from our painting discussion for a moment, I had the chance to order up some of that Finecast action for myself.  I ordered Queek Headtaker and the Wood Elf Highborn with Great Weapon.  I also am borrowing a metal Queek, so that when mine gets here I can really look at the differences.  I'm hoping to have a great experience, like either of these two.

How to Glue Metal Models Together the Easy Way

I've always found the actual assembly of metal models to be a pain in the rear.  I love the detail on metal models, and the heft is nice, but I've always either had to pin, which I hate, or use green stuff, which gets really messy really fast. 

A couple weeks ago I got an email from Powerposey, who writes over at The Accursed Crozius.  He had heard an idea for using styrofoam to glue models together.  I decided to give it a try. 

First, I applied glue to my Hydra, on the butt end where his tail had broken.  I just broke a small piece off of some styrofoam from my garage. 

Then I applied a little more glue over the styrofoam to melt it, and attached the tail.  I pressed them together for about 5-10 seconds.

The tail stuck right on.  A day later, and I can pick up the hydra by the tail and shake it.  It's like the tail is now permanently attached. 

Since then, I've used this method on lots of different models.  I've made more progress in assembly in a few days than I have in weeks.  I put together the Dire Troll Bomber in a few minutes, and even put together The Sanguinor, which normally would be pretty tricky.  It was a piece of cake. 

I highly suggest this method, as it has made my life with metal models so much easier.  Give it a shot!

The Green Stuff Banner Tutorial

The other day, I read this excellent tutorial by danjones87 on Librarium Online.  It's so good that I plan on using it myself, and wanted to share it with you.  So without further ado:

The Green Stuff Banner Tutorial

Banners are always a focal point in any army, large surfaces that are the best places to show of painting skills. For this reason its not always the best option to use the precast ones provided, you cant have evey banner looking the same, its just not natural! For this reason, its about time we went our own way, make the banner yourself!

In this tutorial I will produce a nice raggedy banner to fit with my Black Guard Campaign army.
Planning is VERY important in this process, even more so with banners for fantasy models. First off I mocked up a paper banner, tacked it to the banner pole and then placed it in the unit. From this I can see the space I have to add ripples and curves caused by wind etc. You will need the mock up later on, so dont bin it.




As you can guess with this being in the middle of a rank infantry unit, there is little space to play with, some examples later show what can be done with more space.

What will you need?
As you can see, I have used some Green Stuff (this was rather obvious), talc (any kind of old man drying talc will sufice), a 'rolling pin substitute' (I used my cutting knife handle) and a SMOOTH surface. The smooth surface is very important (I used the other side of my cutting matt) as if you roll the green stuff onto any lumps or bumps this will impair the final result. I also used a single pointed sculpting tool, a sharpe knife and a metal ruler before curing, after curing I used some ZAP super thin glue.



Lets get on with it.
OK, before mixing green stuff ensure the area for working is clean. Then apply the talc. Dont be afraid to cover the whole area in talc, the more the safer!

The talc stops the Greenstuff from sticking to it when you apply pressure.
Rub the talc into the surface. It is critical that the greenstuff does not stick half way through, otherwise you will need to start again.

Dont forget to talc up the rolling pin. Just as important as the matt. its good to keep adding a bit of talc to the tool all the way through.


Mix the greenstuff and pop it into the middle of the talc zone and roll it around to pick up some talc. Then begin to roll out. You may need to apply a bit of pressure at first, but the thinner it gets the less pressure required, it can cause havoc!

I find the best way of rolling this out is to keep turning and flipping the greenstuff, this way it is less likely to stick to the matt or the tool. Remember after each flip to rub a bit of talc into the piece.


After a short while you will have a really thin piece of greenstuff. Its possible to get it that thin you can see through it! Paper thin is fine.


Roll out the mock up and compare to the green stuff sheet.

Then CAREFULLY(!!!!!) cut out.


After this I made the banner raggedy. If you want a nice neat banner then ignore this bit. I mae the banner all ripped up by gentley teasing away chunks of the bottom of the banner. As the greenstuff hasnt cured yet it will stiff be soft and will stretch in places. If this looks like it may cause a problem, rub it with your finger an it will slowly go back into shape.


Once you are happy, leave the banner over night to cure properly


After this I simpley neatened the banner with a knife and stuck to the banner pole with a small amount of glue.

To add curves and waves to the banner I used the super thin super glue, this also gets rid of any small giner prints and other defects. I add a small amount at a time to a small strip, hold in position with fingers or tweasers (dont stick them to the banner!) then move onto the next section once dry. By doing this you can add subtle or dramatic curves and waves.

The final piece



Here are the other, more dramatic banners.









Enjoy!

Dan