Showing posts with label Scenery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scenery. Show all posts

Thursday, 29 January 2026

Mighty Empires XVII c. Part II.

 XVII C. Mighty Empires Campaign Map – Part II



Hi guys, 

in this post let's talk about scales, miniatures and tabletop experiments...

In the first post I introduced the campaign map inspired by Mighty Empires, adapted to the 17th century.

In this second part I want to focus on something just as important: how to represent the campaign physically on the table, and which scale actually works best once everything is laid out.

1) From file to table: printing the map on canvas

One of the most satisfying steps was printing the map on canvas, using the maximum size allowed by the plotter.


note the size of the map next to a 28mm musketeer 


Seeing it laid out physically is very satisfaying, the quality of the print was beyond my expectations, because is larger than the original size of the game in paper.

The canvas surface works perfectly with tokens, avoids glare, and gives the whole setup an almost period-appropriate feel very fitting for the 17th century.






2) The second step was purchasing 17th-century miniatures in 2 mm, mainly tercios and pike-and-shot regiments from Irregular Miniatures.

The idea was never to use them as tactical units (although I am tempted!), but as army tokens at campaign level.

At this scale, a small block can convincingly represent an entire field army. You lose individual detail, of course, but you gain something far more important for a campaign map: clarity and a strong sense of strategic movement.

For this type of game, 2 mm works remarkably well.







the forts, towns and cities are maybe, bigger than I would like, but I think they will do the job. But of course you can use paper o card counters as in the original game.

These Irregula Miniatures models were not meant for play yet, just to see how they interact visually with the map. Do they help reading the territory? Do they get in the way? Do they add atmosphere or simply clutter the table?

So far, the answer seems clear: used sparingly, terrain adds structure and context without stealing the spotlight from the campaign tokens.

I am not sure of the size of the round bases... for big armies maybe 5mm diameter round bases ? do they hide too much terrain under them ?



The 10 mm experiment: Pendraken order:

Still undecided, I decided to push the idea further and placed a custom order with Pendraken Miniatures, this time in 10 mm.

The concept is the same , campaign tokens,  but with far more recognisable formations: visible pike blocks, musket lines, and a stronger visual identity.


I will paint a few of these and see if they do the job better than the tiny 2mm scale.


The key question is :

Does the visual gain justify the loss of scale and table space?

Early impressions suggest that 10 mm looks great,It becomes more “miniatures-driven”.

At one point I even considered something more extreme: using 1/72 scale plastic figures, both from the Thirty Years’ War and the Nine Years’ War.

The idea didn’t last long, but it’s worth mentioning. The result would be spectacular — but it would probably turn the campaign map into a semi-permanent diorama rather than a practical gaming tool. Still, I wouldn’t rule out a limited test at some point.


My conclusions so far are:

1) 2 mm is excellent for strategic-level campaigns

2) 10 mm is visually tempting, but needs careful balance

3) Terrain should remain minimal and functional, probably I will combine cardboard terrain tokens (forts etc) with 2mm metal and resin.

4)Printing the map on canvas was absolutely worth it

I’ll keep experimenting until I find the right balance between playability, visual appeal and historical atmosphere.

There will definitely be a Part III.


Cheers!

Friday, 17 February 2023

ALL the units for the Siege of Girona 1684: so far and future!

 Hi guys!


While I am finishing a unit for my 30 Years War French army, I wanted to show to you the units I have made (and the ones I have thought) for my campaign in and around Gerona/Girona in 1684. 

Apart from generic armies for late XVII c. for both sides, I wanted to paint specifically produced units or leaders for the campaign

So here is the preliminary list :


Spanish:

-Hero: Alexander Bournonville, Viceroy of Catalonia and chief of all the Spanish forces.

no miniature selected... yet.


-Hero: Carlos de Sucre, Governor of Gerona



-Hero: General de Artilleria Juan Domingo Pignatelli, commander of the garrison of the city.



-Unit: Tercio de Gerona 


Work in progress...





-Unit: Militia and gun



-Unit: "Paisanos" or civilian mob

NOT PAINTED YET

-Unit: Migueletes



-Unit: night fighters:

NOT  PAINTED YET

-Unit: company of priests:

NOT  PAINTED YET

-Powder cart... if hit, Kaboom!





French:

-Hero: Field Marshall Bellefonds, commander of the army of Rousillon



-Hero: Captain Jacques Sauvage (fictional), leader of enfants perdús



-Hero: French commander of siege artillery



-Unit: Petard Assault team



-Unit: Enfants Perdús, armored and grenadiers



-Unit: Regiment Konigsmarck (ex Furstemberg, elite German infantry in French service)

NOT  PAINTED YET

-Unit: converged grenadiers



-Ammunition storage: 

Work in progress


-Several other foot and horse regiments I already have painted in the past.





Generic:


-Siege workers

NOT  PAINTED YET

-siege position







-Terrain (generic)









Saturday, 31 December 2022

Some small terrain pieces for generic or XVII c. games

 Hello guys,


This will be the last post of 2022 ! I am painting a couple of galleons in different scales to see which scales fits my needs for the new games like Mad for War (Barry Hilton) or Black Seas (Warlord Games), also some Romans,  Foundry Marlburians...  But also I wanted to finish 3 small terrain pieces for my XVII games. 




The first one is a stone cross, by "Tercio Creativo", very simple terrain although quite nice, I painted it in several shades of earthy greys, washes and drybrushing. This kind of crosses were (and are) very common in Europe,  It is intended to be used in my XVII c. games in Spain, Flanders or Italy, also in WW2 Italy or France.



the other 2 are: a barricade made of wooden boxes, very simple and easy to paint with successive drybrushing stages in different tones, and a paper flag on top with Spain's coat of arms. 

And a destroyed cart with barrels and wicker basket, also quite simple.

Sorry but I don't remember the manufacturers of the last two pieces. All 3 are resin.





Cheers and Happy New Year!

Tuesday, 15 November 2022

28mm Church Warlord Games/Italeri

 Hello mates,


I recently bought a second hand Warlord Games Church. It is an Italeri 1/72 scale Church, sold by Warlord as a result of collaboration between Italeri and Warlord Games since the last few years.

I wanted this kit since I saw it for the first time, although is not as well detailed as resin kits from Tabletop World, it is a decent model and reasonably priced, and above all,  is perfect for  a Mediterranean Church for my WW2 Sicily project or my XVII c. battles in Spain , like my siege of Gerona 1684 project.

Its size also convinced me, because it is tall but not too big in its footprint (remember it is 1/72). I got my inspiration with smaller footprint buildings from Sidney Roundwood's blog.




By the way, I got it quite cheap and it also came already built in a second hand app in Spain, so the painting process began almost inmediately after receiving it at home!  With the church I also bought a couple of Italeri mediterranean houses, in 1/72 but perfect for 28mm , and they also came fully built although unpainted :)


I usually paint my scenery with airbrush and expensive paints and materials, but this time I wanted to try something different:

A quick'n dirty way to finish off the building in no time!

The church came built, so I primed it in grey.

1) first step was picking a wide brush and craft paints and basecoated in dark grey the stones and red the roof, although the shingles are not modelled as mediterranean shingles and look like slate plates, but anyway I wanted them red.

2) I then changed the brush and started painting individually some stone and bricks and shingles, randomly in different shades of grey or red.



3) After that, I washed the whole model in dark brown oil paint with White Spirit

4) 2 days later, I decided to paint different colors of oil dots in the the whole model, and then fading the dots with the wide brush moistened in white spirit, with vertical brush strokes.

5) 2 days later the fun began with the drybrushing stage, light grey and creamy color in all the stone parts, and light red on the roof.

6) then some static grass and matt varnish.


It was very simple and easy to do , and the result is satisfactory, although it is not an award winning piece of terrain, it does it job in the gaming table.









I hope you find it useful !