Brooks Brothers "Own Make"

Brooks Brothers Fall Winter Catalog  1984

Employee handbook describing "Own Make" in 1986 

After the FIT Ivy exhibition, I had a chance to meet Claudio Del Vecchio at a cocktail reception thrown by the show's curator, Patricia Mears.  Del Vecchio narrowed his eyes in mock seriousness, leaned over me and whispered in a deep bass, "So whaz'a wrong with Italian department stores?"  My first thought was, "Sonuvabitch, he  read my post." I stammered and said, "There's nothing wrong with Italian department stores -- So long as they're not at 346 Madison Avenue." 

He could have been an asshole but wasn't.  Surprisingly, Del Vecchio was a complete gentleman, and having worked with a lot of the high-net-worth, that's most unusual. We had a very nice talk and I learned he loses money on my favorite gotta-iron oxford button down made in Garland, NC.  "Own Make" was a term used by Brooks Brothers to distinguish apparel made in its own work rooms.  Shirts in Garland.  Ties, once on the eighth floor of 346, but now in Long Island City (Queens), and tailored clothing in Brooklyn. 

Brooks is bringing the label back with shirts and ties still being made in NC and NYC but with suits, sport coats and trousers being made by Southwick in Massachusetts.  It's good looking and it looks to be extraordinarily well made -- With guts and soul and a cut big enough for the over-40 crowd who requires their jacket to cover their rear.  In short, no gimmicks or tricks.  Straightforward, reserved, quiet.  I pray it's priced with the same respect and thought that went into the making of it but there's no pricing at this time. 

The Italian department store?  That's for tomorrow.

A Ride Up To Jack Spade

The Ride Up...


To the 7th floor


Reception


The Staff


Suits start at $1,295


Side vent


Narrow lapel


Made by Southwick


Tweed sport by Southwick coat w/ half lining


and patch pockets with unfinished sleeves for working button $950


Poor Boy sweaters


Camp Mocc is out mid April for $250


with the right soul.


Canvas Dipped Bag - Go Navy $195


Proportions (not too small)


and removable labels are a Go.


Canvas Dipped that glows in the dark


Davis leather brief (named after T. Wayne Davis)


Great idea for a book lover's wallet


University Stripe Oxford. At $185, a No Go

We're pushing bespoke at this price...Made in Garland, NC


Brittany & Aaron - Bags and clothing


I want this pillow

There's an intelligent aesthetic here with details. Lots and lots of details. If you're a Manhattan working stiff who doesn't have the time to scratch your watch or wind your ass -- then Jack Spade can kit you up so you look like you know what you're doing. There's good value here with suits, blazers and sport coats all made in the USA by Southwick. There's sourced (not made in the USA) attire that's good looking but not such a good value...unless you're in a hurry.

Great value lies in the bags. An orange leather brief named the Davis (after the designer's grandfather) is $395. That's a steal in New York. Not so much if you live in Ft Wayne. There's creativity and fun with the bags that speak to the designer, Brittany Kleinman and to the history of the company. Andy and Kate Spade started the business by selling handbags in 1993. You sense that bags are still important here.

Great design and fairly priced. That's not easy to find today. Who knows... maybe the insanity of Thom Browne (BOHICA) is getting old with everyone. Even that New Yorker who works and makes too much can't afford $5,000 mistakes.

Southwick Ad from 1985

From M Magazine. I was always taken with Southwick's advertising. If anyone knows who the photographer was please clue me in. Isn't this guy great? Look at that nose. Such a craggy face with the aroma of Guiness and Single Malt wafting from his pores. The Meerschaum pipe just over the knee with that olive wide wale cord looks right at home.

This was an ad for "Terrier Cloth." That looks like an Irish Terrier. Whoever did this ad must have had a great time. It's so evocative and mood setting. It may be hard to tell on the post but that's a Blackwatch Plaid Sport Jacket. For years, I thought it was a Blue Blazer. It's so dark it looks solid. The tie and the shirt and the pocket square? Beautiful pairing. The pocket square is normal, low key and not foppish at all. The cuffs of the shirt lead me to believe it's Brooks Brothers as does that perfect roll. Who knows. I've seen the tie before but can't place it. Maybe Herzfeld. Maybe Polo.

Lastly, the blazer patch. This one has two crossed rifles with any Latin tactfully hidden from the camera. I have a blazer patch from the Canadian Airborne. I went to Jump School in Edmonton and was awarded Canadian Jump Wings as part of a Soldier Exchange program. I've worn it only once. On a Double Breasted Blazer with an ascot. I felt like an asshole. Looked like an asshole. Was an asshole. Never wore the blazer patch again. Maybe when I'm this man's age. I'll tell you one thing. When I do go grey... I'm growing that exact moustache.