Theia Fall 2015 - Exclusive Studio Visit

 I had the honor of visiting designer Don O'Neill to preview the THEIA Fall 2015 collection before much of the world. You can be embedded in the photographer's pit, interview backstage, but nothing lets you see a designer's vision as being in their design studio as they work on the collection itself.

Visiting the design space itself, you can see Don's design process. He started with contemporary Irish furniture designer Joseph Walsh. Specifically, his Lumenoria II collection. Walsh's signature aesthetic are his flowing, sinewy organic lines an naturalistic colors. The table below was a piece that Don O'Neill was moved by when he viewed it at The Salon At + Design Show at the New York Armory this past November. The lines in Walsh's work had symmetries with early 20th century Art Nouveau. The art movement was recognizable for its curved design lines and nature motifs that were popular in interior design, art, jewelry, you name it. Don incorporated all of it in his fall 2015 fashion collection.

photos by Mariana Leung

You can see the elegant curved lines in both the dress silhouettes and embroidery design. He tweaked the classic art nouveau dragonfly motif into a more modern butterfly beading. There is a nod to Tiffany glass in his "liquid glass" fabrication.

The sweeping shapes are incredibly flattering on yes, the "average" woman. It may be hard to believe, but I have always been impressed at how much Don takes (real) customer feedback into consideration when he designs THEIA. The style lines are flattering to the curves of the body. They are often "bra-friendly" or have built in fabric construction to give women some extra support in their shape. He adds little touches like shirring in strategic places just in case you (not just hungry celebrities) some breathing room at their next gala. Just in case you were wondering though, that leather halter dress on the left? Yes, Idina Menzel (aka Adele Dazeem) wore that at the Academy Awards last week.

I love seeing a designer and artist at work. Double bonus when THEIA's fashion collection is one that is attainable and one I can picture myself in for a glamorous occasion. Don O'Neill does it again!

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Badgley Mischka Fall 2015 - Matadors

No bull here. Mark Badgley and James Mischka tapped into a classic fashion designer inspiration of the Spanish matador for their fall 2015 collection for Badgley Mischka. Balenciaga did it, Givenchy did recently (remember Madonna's thong from the Grammy's?)

For this collection, the inspiration wasn't quite so literal. There were a few bright red wool pieces that might have had a matador's cape as a muse. The golden metallic embroidery that was built up around bodices and shoulders mixed with deep red, brown and earthy colors might have taken its inspiration from the embellishment of matador costumes. There was tinted lace in some of the dresses that hinted at the lace accessories worn by Spanish women in the church in centuries past.

Otherwise, the dress silhouettes followed many of Badgley Mischka's signature shapes of the long fishtail gown, corseted trumpet skirt and form fitting column dress. Looks that were more suited to day wear included tailored blazers and skirts from beautiful tweeds or brocades that resembled Spanish tapestries.

I loved the tall bouffant half updo hairstyles on the models. The sexy cat's eye makeup had shades of Amy Winehouse as a muse. The nails were embellished metallic gold to match the gorgeous embroidery. I am really happy to see that the designers did not feel the need to add a bullfighter's montera hat as an accessory to get their theme across. 

There were elegant little clutch handbags that coordinated well with the clothing. Some were beaded, some had chunky jewels. I loved the embroidered cuffs with organza that were worn on the wrist as a bracelet alternative. I think I need to make some of those for myself... 

Badgley Mischka celebrated their 25th anniversary as a brand last season and the guys have been in an even longer relationship as a couple. I'm amazed that two people can have such a long run at work and play and still produce good things year after year.  Maybe they can add relationship counselling as the next extension of their brand.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW Zang Toi Fall 2015

How about a journey to somewhere romantic? For his fall 2015 collection at New York Fashion Week, designer Zang Toi took his fans to Venice. He traveled to the Italian city to immerse himself in his inspiration. The soundtrack was full of opera. The fabrics were the most luxurious cashmeres from Loro Piana, silks, and Fortuny-style pleated metallics.

The day looks involved impeccably tailored suits and fitted sheath dresses. The transition from day into evening was indicated with a briefly darkened runway like  the second act of a theater production. For regular Zang Toi fans, you know to get ready to gasp. Of course, he did not disappoint.

Zang Toi gave us a Venetian-themed fashion collection

Zang Toi's seasoned models know to take their time and truly show the beauty of the outfit they are wearing. Whether that is to swing a precious fur stole around the shoulders or to fan out a full cape or arch the body show highlight a dress silhouette, the artistry in modeling comes out on this runway.

Ms. Fabulous contributor Elaine Fioravanti always looks to Zoya's nail polish collection in the gift bags as the teaser for the season. The organic nail lacquer company offered up colors that reflected the key hues of Zang Toi's show in champagne, copper and black. (The designer joked that he was really calling this season "50 Shades of Bronze" backstage).

photos by David TW Leung

Wherever I sit during a Zang Toi show, I am convinced I am among his biggest fans. In the audience, fashion fans practically swooned when an intricately beaded silk cape depicting a Venetian city scene. When I am with fellow photographers, I hear them yelling "Yesss, Yesss!" every time a model takes a dramatic turn in a stunning gown. The photographer's pit is generally a stoic lot, but they gush about how Mr. Toi has the perfect lighting, feeds the shooters and casts the best models.

It's rare that someone in his position has managed to generate such good will among so many segments of the industry. His staff seem fiercely protective of him, have stayed with him for years, but the most helpful for those who make an inquiry. Even former staff have only great things to say about him.

Once again, fashion designer Zang Toi has managed to elevate the New York Fashion Week experience for everyone involved. The beauty of his collection makes all the crowds, waiting, sweating and previous egos worth it.

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#NYFW Monique Lhuillier Fall 2015

No one keeps new school Hollywood looking like old school glamour than Monique Lhuillier. Her fall 2015 collection at New York fashion week show had rich jewel tones in flowing silk charmeuse, lace and beading.

While each style looked contemporary, the artfully draped silk or high-necked lace made the models look equally as comfortable in silver screens of decades past. A pale fur coat was beautifully beaded with jewels. Artful lace was appliqued in flattering lines around the body. The dresses and jackets are destined for many a red carpet (and have likely already worn to award shows this year). The model's hair was blown sleek and straight, off to the side. Some wore their hair back in a ponytail so it wouldn't interfere with a detailed neck area. 

photos by Mariana Leung

I was backstage watching her design staff sew last minute additions and steaming out long silk georgette looks. Back in my early design days, I remember those up-all-night prep sessions only to have to refit again when your model was switched out at the last minute.

The set-up of this show was unusual. Half of the venue was empty (which mean half the number of guests would be accommodated). Instead, the empty risers acted as a staggered platform for models to pose on after they completed their catwalk strut. At first, I couldn't figure out why they would waste precious seats. I realized at the end of the show, the models walked forward and posed again directly in front of the guests seats in a long pause. This allowed key editors to really examine the clothing details. This also gave guests with only a phone a chance to capture their own images.

Overall, this was a gorgeous collection by Monique Lhuillier. I found every look wearable for a truly sophisticated occasion.  

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#NYFW: Naeem Khan Spring 2015

Casual royals? Naeem Khan ' s spring 2015 collection was beautiful,  ornate as usual. However, he also seemed to be tapping into the sporty chic direction many other designers are going for in his own way.

The show started off with shorter dresses, tops that resembled a tshirt and tunic. This is Naeem Khan though, so the deceptively simple pieces were elaborately embellished with gorgeous embroidery. Lots of beads and lots of jewels encrusted 'casual' garments. I guess this is meant for the celebrity or socialite who walks red carpets in daytime?

Then there were the show stopping spring ballgowns. Long, sweeping silk gowns that looked like they were masterfully painted with blooming flowers. Funny how these formal silhouettes did not have embellishments beyond the print.

The color palette was graphic back and white, bold tropical colors or monochromatic metallic when it came to the embroidery.  The closer you look at the beadwork or threadwork, the more intricate it seems. 

The models were styled very simply. Loose, natural hair and makeup so the clothing is the star. The Naeem Khan spring 2015 collection is definitely one of art that needs to be appreciated in person!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Badgley Mischka's Silver Anniversary - Spring 2015

A quarter century together!  Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka may have tied the knot last year but their life and label have been official for 25 years.   My former draping teacher at Parsons had fond memories of watching the two of them work together at a corner table in the classroom in the years before I attended the school myself.

The spring 2015 collection of Badgley Mischka was a parade of elegant day looks and dream gowns.  Fluid silk pants and flirty skirts were paired with tweed jackets with motorcycle styling or luxe cardigans for daytime.  Evening wear had a gorgeous palette of light purple, pale blue, different shades of grey and caramel. 

Many of the bodices or skirts were lavishly embellished with jewels, moonstones and satin flowers.  The embroidery was layered on top of lace and tulle.  Rich beading was also used to accent the key print of an elaborate cherry blossom pattern.

Accessories were almost as impressive.  There was a very sophisticated backpack that upgrades the entire category.  There was a giant jeweled bow on a shoulder.  Big clear Lucite cuff bracelets were made luxurious with shining stones.  Small box clutch handbags had a subtle, holographic finish and decorated with rhinestone motifs.  Shoes had delicate straps, often two-toned with python finish leather and embellished with jewels or shiny hardware. 

The show’s finale included a shower of balloons and a surprise appearance of Naomi Campbell who walked in Badgley Mischka’s first runway show.  Now I can’t wait to see their golden anniversary show!

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2015

Bibhu Mohapatra’s spring 2015 collection was a tribute to heiress and activist Nancy Cunard.  In addition to socializing with literary and artistic greats like Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway and Man Ray, she was an accomplished publisher on her own.  She led the fight against racism and fascism as the new purpose in her life after falling in love with jazz musician Henry Crowder.

While the rebellious spirit of the socialite was a muse for the designer, the aesthetics of the inspiration are a little more subtle.  There were some 1920’s and 1930’s silhouettes.  The turban styled hair, the bias pleat evening gowns had the glamour of madcap heiresses of old Hollywood movies.  The oversized beaded flower motifs paired with pale pink satin reminded me of Paul Poiret in the decade before that.

The color palette was stark, with black, ivory, pale blue and orange when it was mixed with a geometric pattern.  This wicker basket-like print was interpreted in different scales and distorted across luxury fabrics.   The softer rose and red colors were reserved for the embroidered styles.

I don’t know why we don’t see his gowns on the red carpet during awards season.  They are so beautiful and elegant.  Each collection has an artistic edge to them that many other collections just don’t achieve.

Bibhu Mohapatra’s star has risen quickly in recent seasons.  Unfortunately, he seems to have attracted unwanted attention too.  Many photographers were offended when they were thoroughly searched by security before being allowed to shoot this show.  We were told by guards that the designer felt threatened.  

Credentialed photographers have to send in their body of work and assignments in order to be approved.  They have to show official forms of identification in order to pick up their credentials, all of which have a photo and full name.  Most have been photographing fashion week for years.  However, all sorts of random guests who only need a barcode to gain entry to the show, with no identification checked or required, carrying large handbags were all let into the venue without a second glance. 

Now, unless someone received a specific tip that a credentialed photographer was the threat, why would you treat them like criminals yet let all the strangers and random “fans” into the fashion show?  Of course, the fashion show guests are generally better heeled (they don’t have to stand for 14 hours with 50 lbs. of equipment on their shoulder).  They also have designer labels on their bags as opposed to bags that carry professional gear.  This was clearly a case of class/style discrimination.  If you were a stalker who meant harm, which route would YOU take?  Easy, random, unchecked guest ticket that you could buy on Craigslist, or spend years building up credentials to be a photographer?  Also, will 99% of the world see your work from photographs or in person at the show?  Do you really want to offend those who take and distribute those photographs? 

Just a thought for the Bibhu Mohapatra PR team...

show photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Happy 25th Anniversary Zang Toi!

Fashion Week and photographer favorite Zang Toi celebrates 25 years in business with his Spring 2015 collection.  While his longtime models and staff acknowledged the quarter century, the photographer’s pit made history with its leader, Richard Renda chasing him down the runway so the International Press Corps could sing “Happy Anniversary” while he presented him with a cake.

Yes, the photographer’s pit loves Zang Toi.  He is generous with his lighting checks, models who take the time to strut their stuff and pose properly.   He sends out gorgeous, dramatic looks (and also lunch).

While Zang Toi has often looked to exotic global locations as his inspiration, his silver anniversary collection used America as his muse.  The designer told Ms. Fabulous backstage that he wanted to pay tribute to the country that embraced him.  He showed day looks in his favorite color combination of black and ivory.  He then used a throwback to his first collection in using bright emerald, red and purple, colors from his first season.

Traditionally, Zang Toi has opened the show with day wear, then a pause before sending out the big, sweeping gowns that drive his fans wild. Separates for men and when were constructed with luxurious merino wool and silk.  The designer wanted to elevate his repertoire by using crocodile skin as the base for an oversized vest.   The purple ballgown portion of the show had a beautiful silk print that depicted giant blooms of orchids.  There were a few styles that featured heavily beaded/jewel encrusted patterns.

With the immense challenges in fashion today, it is quite an accomplishment to bring your company and staff into the third decade of Zang Toi’s success.  His energy is non-stop.  Waiting backstage for an interview, his personal demeanor was buzzing, happy and contagious.  The photographers in the Press Corps have pledged to buy him a cake and a stellar celebration for every milestone he encounters from now on.     

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Christian Siriano Spring 2015

Christian Siriano is no doubt Project Runway’s most celebrated alumni.  The impish designer showed his spring 2015 collection in Chelsea yesterday, surrounded by a crowd of celebrities and hardcore fans.

Before the fashion show, there the crowd was hyped up about Orange is the New Black stars Uzo Aduba and Jackie Cruz. Supermodel Coco Rochas and lovely Mena Suvari were in attendance.  One of my favorite comedians Amy Schumer was holding court and making people laugh. Jada Pinkett Smith was smoldering with her upcoming show Gotham ready to launch.

The crowd hushed quickly when the fashion show started. The collection started with a group of beautiful white dresses. The silhouettes were reminiscent of the high glamour of the 1980’s but made in more contemporary fabrics. There were slick 80’s blue and mint green outfits paired with blown out blonde hair and sunglasses, very Rodeo Drive. 

I loved the beading and embroidery of many of his looks in the second half of the fashion show. Siriano has a great sense of being able to take classic Haute Couture references and re-interpret them for a younger, modern crowd.  I keep noticing that looks that appear on his runway “inspire” more established designers two seasons later, probably designers he once looked up to.

Christian Siriano blasted out of the reality show spotlight and flourished amazingly well ever since. As skeptical as I am about up-and-comers, I have to admit this Siriano is going to be an icon in the making.

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Monique Lhuillier Spring 2015

Monique Lhuillier’s Spring 2015 collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was a dreamscape.  There were layers and layers of sheer fabrics.  There were shimmering shades of pastel to shiny iridescent fabrics. 

The most beloved (by me) are the full skirted gowns with delicate floral embroidery.  To me, that is Monique’s signature look (one that I have contributed to in past seasons as an embellishment designer).  The dark purple against the pale lilac was striking and feminine.  Look for these to head the red carpet in upcoming awards seasons.  There was mint green, pale yellow, ivory and pale blue gowns also with elegant embroidery.  These would also make a gorgeous bridal alternative for modern weddings.

The iridescent cocktail dresses will no doubt be popular among the affluent prom crowd.  While these might be crowd pleasers,  I have a longstanding prejudice that iridescent fabrics are cheap.  I might change my mind if I had an opportunity to touch the dresses in person, but I can’t get the movie “Romy & Michele’s High School Reunion” out of my head when I look at them. 

There was a black and white group towards the beginning of the show that featured laser-cut flowers as embellishment.  The petals fluttered as the models walked.  This motif was echoed in the iridescent flower confetti that showered the runway towards the end of the fashion show, (again, a little prom-like).  I think Monique Lhuillier is make fans off women in high school and outfit fit them for every major event through until their wedding (or Academy Award).

 Not a bad business plan.

photos by Mariana Leung

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National Museum of the American Indian - Identity in Costume

Can you say the story of your identity is told in your wardrobe?  I visited the National Museum of theAmerican Indian in Washington D.C.  I, of course, went straight for the costume and fashion related exhibits.

The museum itself was beautifully conceived.  I loved how individual tribes curated their own sections of the museum to tell their own stories.  The museum doesn’t shy away from the often ugly history or painful experience of native people in the United States.

The major goal of the museum is conservancy.  There are culturally sensitive collections such as ceremonial items and human remains.  What I found most fascinating was that so much of each tribe’s identity was represented in what they wore.  Motifs etched or embroidered into jewelry and clothing could be a narrative of family history.  Materials like shells, fur, teeth could tell you exactly where someone came from.  Accessories, armor, jewelry could define who that person was within the community, like a chief or healer.

The museum also focuses on contemporary artists and designers that are inspired by Native American culture.  There were galleries of fashion and accessories that featured traditional patterns in modern silhouettes.  Sleek high heels in traditional beading, carved jewelry, and woven textile coats were perfectly chic with a rich history behind the design.

Like many of the best museums in Washington D.C., the National Museum of the American Indian is free to visit.  If you are not able to explore the museum in person, their online archives are extensive.  Go see the country’s roots.

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Best Embroidery on the Academy Awards Red Carpet

Platinum and diamonds was the clear red carpet winner at the Academy Awards.  The best Oscar dresses where in shades of nude, crystal and white.  As always, Ms. Fabulous chooses the best use of beading and embroidery on the red carpet.

Jessica Biel looked stunning in Chanel.  The fitted dress was embroidered in sequins in of different shapes to reflect a pattern, then topped with shredded chiffon at the bust.  Angelina Jolie looked like a Goddess in her beaded Elie Saab.  She bravely showed off her post-surgery chest with barely there, gradated lines of crystal and metallic beads.

Oscar winner Cate Blanchett was a vision in an amazing Giorgio Armani.  The highly dimensional embroidery was a mix of organza petals, metallic pailettes, dripping beads and Swarovski crystal.  Kristen Bell's dramatic gown was by Roberto Cavalli.  The bodice was a highly textured layered applique lace accented with beads.

I know the Academy Awards are supposed to be a celebration of talent.  Can I help it when these ladies kill it with a fantastic Oscars red carpet show?

Jordan Strauss/AP, Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America),Jason Merritt/Getty

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#NYFW: Badgley Mischka Fall 2014

Animal magetism.  Badgley Mischka's Fall 2014 collection at New York Fashion Week was a luxe display of fur, animal print and earthy colors.  The overall look was suited to an opulent Czarina or Anna Karenina, with metallic beading on gold embellished brocade for the evening gowns.

Richly printed chiffons gave a flowing air to leg revealing dresses.  Big fur hats, cuffs and neck warmers gave an extra level of luxury in the accessory department.  For all of the grandeur, the hair and makeup were low key and naturalistic.  Perhaps this represented an escaped Anastasia on the run?

Award season still has a few red carpets to fill.  Which celebrity do you propose to wear these looks?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Best Embroidery on the Golden Globes Red Carpet

The Golden Globes are considered Hollywood's biggest party.  It's no surprise the biggest party frocks are out on display.  As always, in my love for embroidery, here are my picks for best beading and embellishment on the Golden Globes red carpet. 

 I love the dark bordeaux colors of the J. Mendel dress worn by award winner Elizabeth Moss.  Semi-sheer with the beaded, sequined motifs tracing flattering lines on the body.  American Horror Story's Lily Rabe wore a Georges Hobeika gown with a crystal and bead embroidery that shot out like a sunburst neckline.  This looked great and framed her face beautifully.

The platinum queens came in the pair of Mila Kunis in a soft Emilio Pucci gown.  The bodice was layered with silver sequins topped with crystal flowers and beads leading to a neckline embellished with a large dimensional sequin flower.  Kate Beckinsale was stunning in and art deco crystal beaded fishtail gown by Zuhair Murad.

Graphic black and white is one of spring 2014's best trends.  Jenna Dewan Tatum and Zosia Mamet wore it beautifully with romantic embroidered black motifs on white.  Jenna was in a sweeping mermaid gown by Roberto Cavalli.  Girl's Zosia Mamet wore a dress by Reem Acra.
Photos by Getty/Jason Merritt, JustJared

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Embellished Badgley Mischka Spring 2014

Anyone who reads this blog on a regular basis knows that I love good embroidery.  Some of the prettiest embellishments on the spring 2014 runways came from longtime design duo Badgley Mischka.  Their NY Fashion Week show was a parade of ruffled chiffon and vintage crystal beading that looked at home right in the sets of Downton Abbey or the Great Gatsby.  The jeweled motifs looked rich and intricate.  I love the engineered placement of the beaded fringe on one particular skirt (rather than the cliche rows of flapper fringe).   

Dainty hard frame clutches carried a more contemporary diamond motif along with bigger, modern carryall handbags.  My favorite shoes were two-toned strappy heels.  Jewelry was delicate and had an emphasis on cuffs and dangling bracelets with pearls and stones. The pale pastel manicure was the mani of choice for the models along with finger wave curls for the hair.

Which celebrity do you think would look best in one of these gowns on the red carpet?

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NY FASHION WEEK: Monique Lhuillier Spring 2014

Summer is for sorbet.  That was the color palette for Monique Lhuillier's collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion week.  Frothy chiffons in tangerine, raspberry, peach and ombre shades like vanilla blending into chocolate.  

Monique has always used pretty embroideries (including some of my own designs).  This season, the textile designs I loved the most were the three dimensional laser cut flowers and fringed flowers that looked they vines creeping all over a gown.  They both looked very fresh and bright.  They were perfect for those red carpet events that take place in bright daylight, but the starlet still needs a glamorous gown for the paparazzi.  

The other long, solid colored dresses were also destined for a red carpet.  The runway looked like a flurry of silk chiffon fairies were drifting down.  Note to new designers, light sheer fabrics show off movement beautifully and always works as photographer bait as you can see below:

What is your favorite flavor of summer?

original photos by David TW Leung

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