NYBFW: Adam Zohar Bridal Spring 2019

While Royal weddings are on many peoples minds this season, Adam Zohar understands that not every bride is striving to be the perfect princess. Not every bride wants the palace-styled catering hall or the perfect coiffure. Some brides have piercings and tattoos. Some don't want the perfectly symmetrical traditional gown. That's who Adam Zohar appealed to for his 2019 collection.

Gowns were sexy, with some silhouettes fashioned after old-school undergarments or billowing loose ballgowns. Embroidery and applique embellishments were deliberately asymmetrical across the body or only on one side. Some models were nose rings, showing even the rebel girl could opt to be a pretty bride on her terms.

The inclusive attitude continued through to the show venue. Zohar chose the gritty warehouse ambiance of the aptly named Industria studios. The raw space was one that felt open to any possibility without any pretension, in contrast to the palace vibe many other designers opt for. During the show, the designer kept the big garage doors open to the street so anyone could walk in and enjoy the show as well. Again, a stark contrast to the tightly edited (and enforced) guest list of most fashion shows.

The Adam Zohar 2019 bridal collection was immensely detailed and beautiful. However, even though they were elaborate works of art, I felt like the bride wearing could run on the beach or roll in the grass and he wouldn't be offended. For the pretty and punk girl.

all photos by Mariana Leung

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NYBFW: Theia Bridal Spring 2019

Who hasn't dreamt of being a Princess Bride? The Theia Bridal Spring 2019 collection at NY Bridal Fashion Week was a celebration of European queens and princesses, iconic and modern. By modern, this means brides of all shapes, lifestyles and sizes, who were represented on his runway.

Each gown had different cuts, style lines to create dramatic silhouettes that flattered different areas of the wearer. Elegant embroidery was designed to also accentuate the curves of the body. There was a regal sophistication to every look from this collection that hinted at princesses of history (as each gown was named after) but with a thoroughly contemporary execution.

Designer Don O'Neill has always been thoughtful in designing gowns for real women. From creating his signature laser-cut fabric paillettes for comfort to his little tricks of draping to give extra ease in areas where the wearer might feel self-conscious to the ever-important "bra-friendly" styling that customers want. His record with celebrities as diverse as Gabourey Sidibe to Carrie Underwood has demonstrated his skill in making everyone look beautiful.

I sighed when I saw the jeweled tiaras. Who wants a veil when you have a princess crown? While I don't have any photos of the flowers, Fleur de Pascal's creations belonged in palace.

For anyone who can't wait for the Royal Wedding this May, they got their fill from this gorgeous show!

Photos courtesy of Theia.

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NY Bridal Week: Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2017

It's fall, so the rustic, barn wedding is de rigeur again across the country. Rita Vinieris chose such a setting way on the West Side of Manhattan at one of the few venues that could actually convey this atmosphere at La Venue. The Rita Vinieris Bridal collection for Fall 2017 went all out in fantasy and extravagance. 

The aged wood planks were part of the original train tunnels that made up the Highline that brought goods in and out of New York. The wood even *smells* rustic, I suppose it carries all the of transit and clubland history in the planks. The industrial look of exposed lighting and pipes was an effective contrast to the romantic wedding confections that swept down the runway. There were huge ballgowns of full lace, satin or tulle skirts. Frothy capes in tulle and feathers were wrapped and floated across the catwalk. Extra-long trains trailed to dramatic effect along the dark, rough wood. 

While the "cold shoulder" look is a huge trend in sportswear for spring 2017, Rita Vinieris took the idea and made it a tribute to vintage silhouettes of the past for fall 2017. Off-the-shoulder gowns were nods to everything from the 1930s to 1980s. 

I appreciated the champagne that preceded the show. I was rather surprised I didn't receive a rosemary garnished mason jar of some sort. Maybe I look at too many wedding planning Pinterest boards. Happy Autumn nuptials to Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2017.

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Urban Zen on the Highline

Opera Brides of Austin Scarlett

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NY Bridal Week: Reem Acra Fall 2017

Who doesn't love a garden wedding? Reem Acra delivered an incredibly romantic collection for NY Bridal week. Embroidered lace was used to sexy effect on bodices and skirts to show embellished hints of skin. The delicate beading and tiny sequins were also embroidered to emulate lace motifs decorating the skin. The patterns took on a tattoo effect to highlight those parts of the body.

There were Reem Acra's signature sculpted gowns. Tightly fitted bodices flared out into big tulle peplums or sweeping ballgown skirts in anything from silk organza to silver metallic brocade. The designer wanted this collection to be her secret garden. There were more whimsical touches from that secret garden, like butterflies, ribbon bows and silk flowers that decorated the runway looks.

The models were styled with intricate braid creations with flowers woven in. The makeup was soft with pale eyes and nude lips. A few of the bridal looks were accessorized with lace wrist cuffs.

The Reem Acra Fall 2017 bridal collection was one of my all-time favorites from the designer. She has had some more sultry or exotic collection in recent seasons, but this season brought me back to the pure fantasy wedding gowns that I fell in love with in bridal magazines.

all photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous: 

Cherry Blossom Brunch 

Fairy Tale Fashion at the Museum at FIT

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2017

Easy breezy. Theia designer Don O'Neill brought his bridal collection for Fall 2017 back to its roots. He wanted his bride free of contrived themes. He designed many of the looks specifically for the destination bride. This meant lighter, crushable looks that could be rolled up in a suitcase and flown to the beach.

Seeing the detailed wedding looks, you wouldn't think they were luggage-friendly. There were multiple looks of lightweight, soft lace. Silk mousseline and silk chiffon were also breezy and light. Don O'Neill also has a talent for taking popular sportswear silhouettes like this season's wide-legged jumpsuit and upgrading it into an elegant bridal look with lace or draped crepe.

Embroideries were kept light and delicate. Glass beading and nude colored linings were mean to emulate sand and sea glass. Don O'Neill got married himself near his hometown in Ireland the past summer. His destination wedding served as part of the inspiration as it was also near the beach. There was a bit of aspirational design here, though, the runway looks were meant for sunnier skies than the rainclouds he had on his big day.

The beautiful flower crowns with pearl accents worked in that topped the models' hair were full of mermaid chic. Fittingly, they were a collaboration with newlywed husband and creative director of Fleur de Pascal. I noticed the looks of the show were named after various beach beauties, like Ariel from The Little Mermaid and Venus of Greek mythology, rising from the sea in a giant clamshell.

Theia isn't the first designer this season to reset and refresh the collection down to its roots. Simplifying and creating clean fashion design so it can be perfected is a wonderful movement that I am seeing from the top designers this season. Forget the wedding, I just want to run away in a gorgeous THEIA dress at the prettiest beach I can find.

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NY Bridal Week: Mira Zwillinger Nature Spring Bridal 2017

It is cherry blossom week here in New York. The Mira Zwillinger show at NY Bridal Fashion week was blooming all over the catwalk. The mother and daughter design team worked with a theme of nature for spring 2017.

The collection had the most exquisite embroideries. Scores of three-dimensional flowers in shades of cream and blush embellished bodices and capes, hiding naughty bits on sexy "naked" dresses. I loved the sculpted blossom branches that made up the headpieces of the models.

Mira Zwillinger launched her fashion label in the early 1990s in Tel Aviv. Her daughter Lihi Zwillinger eventually grew to join her after learning the design ropes from Mom. They have now expanded their collection to sell from Australia to America.

The Sakura Matsuri festival is celebrated at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden this weekend. We at Ms. Fabulous just hosted our spring cherry blossom brunch here in Manhattan on Saturday. The trees of the city are in full bloom. Mira Zwillinger's brides? They were the crowning flower of them all.

photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Bridal Week: Austin Scarlett Spring Bridal 2017

What's new with Project Runway alum Austin Scarlett? The refined competitor held an intimate presentation on Sunday to show his newest bridal dresses. His elegant design sense landed him an assignment with JLM bridal in the past and since 2012 he has launched his own wedding collection.

He has create costume designs for the Metropolitan Opera and other dance, opera and theatrical companies.. That work clearly influenced his current collection. The bridal dress styles are named after musical terms like "Allegra", "Sonata" and "Serenade". 

His mastery of drape is clear. The soft silk gowns look like they are carved from marble. The silhouettes are so defined in their sculptural beauty. He also plays with the sheerness of fabric with trimmed edges to highlight the shapes even more. The Serenade gown featured an abundance of silk, handmade flowers. He was happy to credit M&S Schmalberg as one of the New York Garment Center's few remaining companies who still make things in the old tradition. They are one of my favorite places to frequent for flowers I use in my own design work. They handform and stitch handcut petals into European millinery irons that date back to the 1800's. 

Scarlett was a gracious host throughout the presentation. He created pins and barettes with more of the exquisite flowers for his guests. He was constantly hands-on in fixing the dresses on his models and happy to elaborate on any of the gowns.

Austin Scarlett will go down in Project Runway as one of the most refined designers of its history. While there were many divas on the show, he is more the maestro. He doesn't play theatrics, he conducts all of the players with ease. After seeing his spring 2017 collection, I can't wait for the encore.

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NY Bridal Week: Reem Acra Bridal Spring 2017 Bond Girls

There were a lot of "naked" dresses on the NY Bridal Fashion week runways this season. Reem Acra did the opposite. She designed a collection that had a traditionally romantic look and modest coverage for her Spring 2017 collection.

That's not to say her gowns weren't sexy. There was a lot of lace with layers of sheerness as opposed to overt skin exposure. There was an attractive corset detail in the back of several gowns with a wide ribbon lattice that implied more skin exposure instead of a completely bare back. 

This classically beautiful bridal collection was a contrast to her last two NYFW collections which were the most provocative I have seen from Acra. Her spring 2016 had a Sheherazade harem theme; her fall 2016 runway was full of Femme Fatale lingerie looks.  

Perhaps Reem Acra's sultry sirens wanted to play blushing bride for a day. The soundtrack for this runway was a medley of James Bond tunes. While the dramatic theme usually goes over well for a fashion show, it was odd for a classic wedding catwalk. The image of James Bond and women don't exactly bring to mind commitment and eternal love. Most of the (many) women in his life don't live long after being romanced by him. The one installment of the series where he gets married was the least popular of the franchise. So what exactly is the message here?

I might be over thinking this. Luckily, the beauty of the dresses transcends the music. My favorite looks were the gowns with tightly beaded bodice and huge stacked organza ruffles. Based on social media reactions to my photos, I wasn't alone in my choice.

If you want to feel like a princess on your special day, I can't imagine a more regal designer than Reem Acra to dress you for the aisle.

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NY Bridal Week: Ivy & Aster Spring Bridal 2017

With all of the talk of festival style and street style, it's not surprising that the younger, laid back bride wants to see those elements on her wedding day too. Ivy & Aster had an intimate presentation at a gallery in Chelsea.

There were pretty little dresses with thread embroidery and tulle. Designer Jessica Brown also took trendy street style items and interpreted them for a bride of the Instagram age. The ubiquitous moto jacket that was THE must-have fashion item of every fashionista was executed in lace here. Long fringe that made its way up from the 1970's inspired Boho crowd to couture was given a relaxed hipster wedding chic interpetation here as well.

I am finding more and more younger bridal labels are doing the mix and match wedding separates thing. This makes sense for a fashion shopper to be able to put together a whole collection for herself for different activities. Corset and big tulle ballgown skirt for the aisle, crop top and short skirt for dancing, jacket for running outdoors into your getaway car...

A great find for me at this presentation was to discover Heather Wells who collaborated with Jessica Brown this season. She makes incredible headpieces that are one-of-a-kind from salvaged vintage items. Each piece is a work of art that she packages in vintage cigar boxes for her clients. The name of her studio is Heart of Gold Designs and I am a new fan.

Bravo ladies! I look forward to your collections to come.

Check out The Best Street Style–Inspired Trends of NY Bridal Week

by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

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NY Bridal Week: Isabelle Armstrong Spring Bridal 2017

There is something really satisfying in seeing a gigantic ballgown at NY Bridal Fashion Week. Isabelle Armstrong won day 3 of NYBW with dresses with the most volume. Maybe it's the excessive yardage of tulle or watching a size 0 model try to navigate a giant satin structure around a narrow runway turns.

Trumpet gowns and artful shirring and draping made many of Armstrong's styles a great choice for many body types. There were clean, satin silhouettes or intricate all embroidered lace styles. The fashion show took place in the beautiful Lotte Palace hotel. You would recognize it as the entrance to the Van Der Woodsen's apartment in Gossip Girl. The interiors were recognizable in many other scenes. It served as a glamorous backdrop to the gorgeous gowns.

The silhouettes may be traditional, but the execution was updated. Instead of heavy sequin embroidery of yesteryear, laser-cut petals were used. Instead of traditional ruffles to create volume, sweeping angles of draped organza looked like they defied gravity. Sweetheart necklines were cut into extra-deep plunged V shapes for unexpected sexiness.

I love seeing Isabelle Armstrong's bridal collection develop and strengthen season after season. The most elegant young brides of the world must be noticing too.

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NY Bridal Week: Houghton's Boho Brides Spring 2017

While NY Bridal Fashion Week is taking over the East Coast, Coachella is taking over the West. Houghton's bohemian brides are bridging the styles of both ends of the country with their relaxed chic for the groovier set.

The multi-level townhouse presentation saw models lounging and posing in Katherine Polk's romantic layers of ruffles and catsuits. These aren't the bridezillas who reign over the Plaza and terrorize teams of vendors and bridesmaids for her "vision". This is a bride who is ready to run away to get married at the beach or local park at midnight surrounded by her closest friends.

More street style than the cathedral, the silhouettes were long and soft. Some rompers and stockings could be paired with petal embellished tops. Shoulders were clearly the body part that was the focus of the season. Many of the pieces could be worn on the big day, or as a statement piece any day. Maybe that is how a laid back bride in this day and age wants. Not everyone intends to be a medieval princess. Shouldn't your wedding day just be an extension of your personal style? The House of Houghton bride thinks so.

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NY Bridal Week: Angel Sanchez's Literary Brides

I like to imagine the Angel Sanchez spring 2017 bride as a modern Belle from Beauty and the Beast. She is brainy, smart, feminine with her nose in a book.

The designer extended some his concepts from NY Fashion week into his bridal looks. There were sharp, architectural cuts and origami-like pleats. There were delicate three-dimensional flowers embroidered onto several looks. There were elongated draped updates to the pouf skirt which was quite romantic. 

I love that Angel Sanchez takes classic wedding style ideas and cuts it up into a modern interpretation of it for today's bride. Here's hoping the groom is no beast!

photos by Conrado Feliz

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Spring 2017 Sci-Fi Bride

Wow. Just wow. THEIA's runway show for NY Bridal Week put the BANG in big bang theory. The name THEIA refers to the Goddess of light. For his spring 2017 bridal collection, designer Don O'Neill created a futuristic runway around his belief that the concept of love is represented by pure, white light. 

The look of the collection was inspired by the underwater photography of Rafal Makiela . The rippled silver backdrop and catwalk reflected light onto the bright white fabrics. Reflection was a running theme in the materials from this collection. There were foil printed silver and white fabrics.

Rafal Makiela underwater photo

Silvery laser-cut paillettes. There were several "naked" dresses that highlighted incredible beading that looked like swirling stars. There was a gown with a plasticized nylon bodice, another with glazed sequin embroidery.
The most dramatic looks were the ones that looked like they were dressed for the wedding of a science fiction fantasy. There was a silk crepe gown that was orbited by a sparkling starry halo (a much more interesting alternative to a veil). Another stunning look was a tall "vortex"collar made of raffia that framed the model. The final look of a crystal corset seemed to defy gravity. It really did look like water had been splashed against the model and just hung in the air.

Some of the accompanying bouquets that were carried by the brides were equally space-worthy. Elegant orchids were entwined with silver and crystal tentacles. Platinum spears were arranged with spiky plants I couldn't even recognize. Do you think the science fiction element stops there? All of the bridal looks were named after characters from Star Wars, Star Trek and other genre films like the Fifth Element, The Matrix, and Alien.

 The floral artist was Fleur de Pascal, who just happened to be the fiance of the designer. Their upcoming nuptials will be taking place by Don O'Neill's hometown. It was also pointed out to me that it was also near the site of where they were filming the next Star Wars movie.

The THEIA Spring 2017 bridal collection was not only romantic on many levels, but it was really fun. The avant-garde looks and geeky references hit me where I live. I can't wait to see photos from the upcoming wedding and hope there are just as many sci-fi references there too.

Runway photos by Mariana Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Christopher Paunil's Elegant Brides Fall 2016

David Pecaut Square in Toronto was graced with glamour on the first night of Toronto Fashion Week. Designer Christopher Paunil and partner Chalo Hancock showed their first runway show this season at the venue after launching their label in 2010.

Christopher Paunil creates impeccably tailored evening wear and bridal gowns for mostly private clientele. He takes his muses from classic couturiers like Charles James and Valentino which you can see from the sculpted silhouettes. Paunil likes to combine unusual and traditional fabrics into gorgeous gowns.

With the current runway collection, you can see the top two Pantone colors of rose quartz pink and serenity blue represented in satin right off the start. The variations of high/low, mermaid and trumpet skirt silhouettes are impeccably contructed.

The Christopher Paunil has already been picked up by legendary bridal retailer Kleinfeld in 2014 when they entered Canada. What was more notable for me was how much mentoring work the designer does with younger artists to be with organizations like U for Change. Even as they were developing their own collection, they had a policy to give back to the community as they were growing.

photos by David TW Leung

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NY Bridal Week: Jean Ralph Thurin 2016

Jean Ralph Thurin is another Parsons School of Fashion Design alumni putting out collections this season. He was always inspired by the classic couture houses like Dior and Chanel. His bridal collection reflects those silhouettes, ranging from trumpet and mermaid shapes to tiered ballgowns and cool capes that a Hitchcock femme fatale could rock.

Fashionistas of television love his work. He has fans in Kim Kardashian, Glee's Jenna Ushkowitz and Extra's Courtney Lopez. He specializes in one-of-a-kind designs in the tradition of Haute Couture.

I like the special touches of embroidery and the beaded hair accessories Thurin's brides were styled with. His last season was inspired by Bond Girls and the collection before that found its muse in Faberge Easter Eggs. I'm looking forward to seeing what is next for Jean Ralph Thurin!

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NY Bridal Week: Claire Pettibone 2016

Claire Pettibone has got to be one of the most romantic designers on the scene. She is all about embroideries and lace, a bit of glitter. Her theme for Fall 2016 was The Gilded Age. It was all about opulence, diamonds, pearls and decadence.

The designer started her label with her husband Guy Toley which is the sweetest love story on its own. Previous themes of her collecions include Gothic Angel and Still Life which is telling of her art school upbringing.

Pettibone has also extended her brand into lingerie and jewelry, a natural fit. The gowns of this particular collection were, flowing and had a vintage elegance to them. The embroidered motifs, with metallic thread or appliques were meticulously executed. The styling had a retro romantic bent. The hair was loosely pulled up and the makeup was soft  like a blushing bride.

It's NY Bridal week. It is SUPPOSED to be romantic. Other designers may have far-reaching themes, but the entire reason for a woman stepping into a gown is love. It is so nice to see Claire Pettibone remind us of it.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2016

NY Bridal Week got off on a very sexy start Thursday with THEIA's Fall 2016 Bridal collection. Designer Don O'Neill's inspiration this season was the sultry spirit of 1920s opium dens. 

What I love about how O'Neill designs his collections is that he considers his theme both aesthetically and intellectually. Aesthetically, you see influences of the time period in bias silhouettes and the very current trend of fringe worked into elegant gowns. You also see hints of Asian influence in the use of red for bridal gowns and the embroidery without veering into cultural appropriation that lesser designers are tempted by.
 A bit of the flapper influence immediately set the tone with that first look of vampy eye shadow and fur chubby and the beaded gown. Intellectually, the opium den was carried through in the spirit of a bride who has rid herself of her inhibitions and is now free. There were sheer dresses that served to highlight the graphic patterns of the embroidery. The 1920s was a breakthrough decade of major progress in women's lives so the liberation idea was appropriate there too.

In practical details, THEIA does a great job of taking classic details and current fashion trends and reworking them into bridal. Instead of standard cowl-back bias gown, there were multiple draped strips framing the back. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes were cut in modern shapes. Instead of using fringe in a bohemian way or traditional flapper dress, the placement was used to create movement where a sheer skirt or back cape detail might be.

A perfect partnership, floral designer Fleur de Pascal created dramatic orchid bouquets, lillies and over-sized lotus flowers for a sophisticated look. He wasn't afraid to go dark for the darker colored gowns adding to that sultry, illicit opium den vibe.

The THEIA bridal collection once again gave us a beautiful collection that is flattering, sexy and fashion forward. It has hints of classic bridal silhouettes but pushes them forward with updated trends. When the foggy opium den haze clears, what an image these gowns make.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Irina Shabayeva Bridal Collection 2016

Did you want to catch up on what Project Runway alumni are doing? Season 6 winner Irina Shabayeva presented super glamorous evening and bridal looks as the finale runway in a fundraising gala to end human trafficking.

Project Runway's Irina Shabayeva's Show in Support of Freedom Ladder

Counting Selena Gomez and Carrie Underwood as fans, Shabayeva is now focused on working with brides and special occasion clients directly right in her studio for a collaborative, custom creation.  Customers who can't make it into her studio directly can work with her via Irina Shabayeva's Etsy boutique.

The fiery designer was inspired by Victorian structures to 1950's silhouettes for her latest fashion collection. She combined intricate laces and high volume skirts and gigantic ballroom skirts that were still light and transparent.

Shabayeva & Design Team

The event was produced by The Set NYC. It benefitted Freedom Ladder, an organization that empowers women and children by raising awareness against human trafficking and promoting a safe world for all.

It was a gorgeous collection and I look forward to seeing more of Irina Shabayeva's looks for brides and everyone else.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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