Aron Kincaid(1940-2011)

In his salad days, he was a security guard for the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, worked on a construction gang in the South Seas, dubbed films in Paris, led tours of the Acropolis in Greece, and was a rock singer on the Via Veneto in Rome.

I surfed until I was in my early 20s and then stopped. I decided it was a crazy sport and much too dangerous.