The Wing or The Thigh?

An excellent comedy which deals with the theme of traditional cuisine versus industrial cuisine. Traditional is personified by the Guide Duchemin (skit on Guide Michelin ) and industrial cuisine by Tricatel ( which I must assume is a skit on Jacques BOREL ) whose awesome director was played by Julien Guiomar. Louis de Funès plays the Michelin man who in secret and under various disguises tests out restaurants who in spite of this recognise who it is. Duchemin ( DE FUNES ) has a son (played by the late great French comedian Michel Colucci or "Coluche" who gives the impression of carrying on in the same line as his father but in reality is more interested in circus-clowning ! All actors give magnificent performances and the plot is brilliant. A most enjoyable moment to be spent, and now it's available on DVD in France at rock-bottom price !

If it takes me to explain to you that the French take their cuisine very seriously, you probably have just arrived on this planet and seek somebody to take you to our leader. Sure, cheese that reek like dead mans feet, stuffed duck or escargot (that's snails, in case you live in the States) are not everybody's cup of tea. But taste is debatable. Quality is not and for things concerning (culinary) quality, you need not look further than La Belle France. It doesn't come as a huge surprise hence that many French films concern themselves with the kitchen and even less of a surprise that master-comedian (and passionate chef in his own rights) Louis de Funes would eventually take the topic on.

Publicist Charles Duchemin (de Funes) is the bane of all French restaurants: His food-guide bestows the much coveted Duchemin-Stars upon the restaurants (or takes them away if warranted – which is more often the case than not). Having some of the keenest taste-buds in all of France, Duchemin takes it upon himself to "test" the individual restaurants, usually disguised as a harmless (looking) old lady or an American tourist. But Duchemin has a nemesis of his own: scheming Jacques Tricatel (deliciously slimy Julien Guiomar), industrial food-producer that delivers virtually artificial food to chains and roadside Inns. Being challenged to a TV-interview by Tricatel, Duchemin (after having almost been 'poisoned' by eating some of Tricatels produces) has lost his sense of taste, yet must save French cuisine somehow.

It is my firm opinion that de Funes later films were also his best. This goes for "The Mad Adventures of Rabbi Jacob", his second-to-last feature "The Cabbage Soup" as well as "L'aile ou la cuisine", filmed shortly after de Funes had recovered from a massive heart-attack. Perhaps it was his failing health and age that made the comedian (slightly) move away from his hyper-paced screen-persona to a more subtle humour (despite all the typical trademarks still being present, albeit tuned down). In the past, de Funes sidekicks had a hard time not being paled out by de Funes performance, but in his later years you could tell, that the comedian timed his humour so as to give the other cast-member some breathing space. In this case comedian Coluche, playing de Funes son and reluctant partner-in-crime, who would rather be a circus-clown than a connoisseur. Like de Funes, Coluche has mastered the art of physical slapstick without turning the gags into an infantile farce. The scene, where he inherently mimics a waiter with a nervous disorder, is pure slapstick gold, turning it almost into an art-form.

Apart from being one of de Funes last few films, it does have a rather depressing prophecy. If you have travelled through France and Belgium, the hearts of European cuisine in recent days, you will have noticed the abundance of fast-food-joints in the cities and highway-stops. You may even have tried the grub there (I refuse to call it food) and, if you have seen the film, you may have looked around, looking whether you'd spot the "Tricatel"-logo anywhere, perhaps printed on the thigh of a chicken – if indeed chicken it was that they were serving.

Still, the film remains a delight and a clean 8/10

This is almost the last movie of this giant french actor who can squeeze my heart as no one else. His big heart, his class, his musical beat and his funniness shine as never and he is blessed to give the torch to a spiritual son, Coluche. I don't find any other movie where two generations are together on screen: Funes was the best in France in 60-70 and Coluche followed him for 70-80. Sadly, Coluche died young and 30 years later, no one takes the seat. Thus, this reunion is exceptional and the movie is as funny as prophetic: Funes is the old wealthy world, Coluche is the common people and the great villain, Ticastel, is the new industrial leader. Those who loved France will be happy because you can see Paris and the country when it was still developing. The offices and factories are brand new. And for sure, the main subject is about a french emblem, the food. It's true now that we cook some industrial food and that the fight fast-food / restaurant is heavy. The movie is totally right when it depicts french waiter as unpleasant. In conclusion, have a taste of this fantastic french flavor!

Saw this in an un-subtitled version 8/6/15. Monsieur DeFunes is in fine form as a champion of traditional French gastronomy farcically at war with "industrial" cuisine. The pairing with Coluche works better than a bottle of Bordeaux alongside a plate of bifteck frites. DeFunes' Donald Duck persona complements Coluche's sad clown, the son of DeFunes' character secretly pursuing a career in greasepaint under le big top. The whole thing must have worked for me because I laughed. Here is a very entertaining movie. After having seen several DeFunes movies, I find myself asking once again, why didn't this talent catch on in America, other than very modestly for his work in "Rabbi Jacob"? (1973) The guy was funny. Coluche was not going for the big laughs in the movie here, instead playing in convincing fashion a sympathetic character, as the script intended. I want to see more of his movies, too. We Americans may not appreciate his humor the way the Europeans did, but this film clearly displays his ability as an actor in possession of considerable emotional depth.

Just a word of "advice" at the beginning: Don't watch this film while you're eating. Maybe you wouldn't want to keep your food after the second half of the film!

This film I've seen for the first time as a child. You love Louis de Funès when you're child. He is the best clown you can get. Then you grow older and you think: ah, silly. Then you grow even older and suddenly you see the film again (it's out just now on DVD to celebrate the master's "90th birthday" in the next week) and laugh tears. Yes, the film is silly like so many French comedies, fast, hectic and silly. But still the idea for the script is brilliant and the "message" works today as it did in the 70s.

The most funny thing about the film for a German, though, is the fact that they dubbed more lines than are actually said in the French original. I just realized this with the new DVD. For the first time ever I heard Funès in French and with the subtitles on I wondered after a while why so often there were subtitles but no dialogue. They actually tried to make it even funnier in the German dubbed version with more dialogue when you can't see the lips or when the lips are moved but nothing is said. It came as quite a shock to me. We have weird ways of treating film in this country...

Anyway, this is probably the best film Funès ever did and if you want to see only one of his films, then let it be this one. You won't be disappointed.