Local Boys

I enjoyed this movie and yes, I'm a real surfer who is widely known in the surfing world. I'm not a movie critic and really don't care that there some minor mistakes, the theme itself made up for the problems. This film reminded me of many trips, surf sessions, and other things we used to do. I still drive groms to the beach, give them hints, help them along, and yes I've even given a few boards away. Don't think it doesn't happen as it happens all the time. Ask Chuck Linnen about how many groms he's taken under his wing over the years. Some became US and even world champions.

Some may find fault with how surfers bargain for boards in the movie. Sorry but Dick Dale reminded me of my mentor Dale Velzy selling boards in Huntington Beach back in the early 60s.