Juan in Utopia

VICTORIA COSFORD
It was at a corporate team-building exercise where I first met Juan Hernandez. Out at the Stone & Wood Brewery we were the two chefs demonstrating dishes to a group of bank employees up from Sydney, under the auspices of the Bangalow Cooking School dishes ideally featuring beer. On my side the trestle table was adorned with the rustic ingredients that would go into my rustic menu peperonata; olive and herb beer breads; cannelloni bean puree while on Juans side his groaned under banks of baby vegetables, an entire ocean trout, bottles bearing mysterious liquids, a blowtorch. We could not have been better contrasted, and clearly it was the less energetic members of the group who gravitated toward me and perhaps the more serious ones toward Juan. Later, much later when it was all over, I got to taste his carpaccio of ocean trout with pickled vegetables, hay labna and sauce vierge the fish he had cured in lager and it was truly extraordinary. I track its creator down at Utopia restaurant in Bangalow where he is not only head chef but also general manager. He is still limping from an injury he sustained to his knee during a game of soccer that had occurred so inconveniently the Sunday before our Stone & Wood event, to which he had arrived on crutches and doped up to the eyeballs, he admitted, on pain-killers in order to get through it all. Chilean-born Juan has only been here for about a year, which is how old he was when his Spanish parents, in pursuit of a better life, brought the family to Australia and settled in Sydneys Fairfield. Cooking was always an important aspect of homelife, his mother teaching her son the traditional Spanish dishes she had grown up with. Indeed so much did Juan enjoy cooking that it was during his apprenticeship as an electrician that his father suggested he switch over to that of a chef, which he subsequently underwent at Parramattas General Bourke Hotel. He tells me that one of the waiters there asked him what he was doing there, wasting his talent, telling him he should try Sydney. And with that he was off, securing, at the age of 20, a job at GPO restaurant in Martin Place where he stayed for four years and learned, amongst other things, about respect and tradition. There followed Courtneys Brasserie, Aqua Dining and Wildfire, until a move to Newcastle led to firstly the hatted Bacchus restaurant then the hatted Zest. It was at the latter Nelson Bay establishment where his passion blossomed, where his eyes were opened to new modern techniques, molecular cuisine and sous-vide cooking. From that point onward Juan would begin to obsessively research recipes, trends and culinary ideas, a practice he continues today.

After maintaining the hat at Zest for two years he was offered another job at another Nelson Bay place, but it didnt really work out, he tells me. And so he headed north for a holiday, on a whim leaving his resume at a handful of local restaurants. The next day, he says, I was offered the job as head chef at Utopia. Whose lovely menu is Juans creation, and studded with evidence of not only his Spanish heritage but also his passion for innovation and experimental, cutting-edge technique. The beer cure for the ocean trout was, he says, his own invention, a tweaking of a similar dish he would make at Bacchus. And if its not on the current menu then it should be restored immediately: it has to be his signature dish!

BYRON BAY CONTINUED

Open daily except Tues Brunch 7-4 Dinner 5-10 33-35 Childe St, Belongil 6680 9007 eat@belongilbistro.com.au

Fins
Salt Village, Kingscliff 6674 4833 dining@fins.com.au Dinner 7 days Lunch Fri, Sat & Sun
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DJ AQUA IS BACK! Live global tunes every Friday night from 6pm in the Fins Cocktail Bar.

FREE MEAL Buy one main meal at the Brewery and get one main meal FREE of the 7 Days, Lunch & Dinner same or lesser value! Noon till late Conditions apply. Bring this voucher Bookings for groups and spend over $10 over the bar and a free meal deal is essential 1 Skinners Shoot Rd, Byron yours. Offer expires 31st December, 2012 www.byronbaybrewery.com.au 6685 5833

Byron Bay Brewery & Resto

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Fins
Salt Village, Kingscliff 6674 4833 dining@fins.com.au Dinner 7 days Lunch Fri, Sat & Sun
GOOD FOOD GUIDE CHEFS HAT EVERY YEAR SINCE 1998

FINS is famous for serving the best seafood in Australia. We have now launched FINS EARTH. An exciting menu of the best steaks from Australias most premium producers. Choose your cut, choose how you would like it served.

Byron Bay Woolies Plaza, Jonson St 02 6685 7103 Coolangatta Showcase on the Beach 07 5536 5455 Broadbeach The Oracle, 12 Charles Ave 07 5570 2166 www.osushi.com.au

Awarded Australias Favourite Japanese Restaurant twice running in the I Love Food Awards and Best Asian in Northern NSW in the Restaurant & Catering Awards for Excellence, continuing a string of 11 awards. Eat in or takeaway, licensed. Open 7 days from 11am till late. Modern and traditional wholesome Japanese food and great service.

Spice It Up Thai Restaurant

Italian at the Pacific provides a bustling atmospheric restaurant, dishing up contemporary inspired Italian Open for Dinner & Cocktails cuisine. Were introducing an exciting menu of taste 7 days from 4pm till late plates, antipasti, fresh pastas and main dishes. With our Next to the Beach Hotel new Ocean View Bar, we ensure all our guests have the Bay Street opportunity to enjoy some of Byrons finest cocktails 6680 7055 italianatthepacific.com.au and wine.

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La Table
72 & 72a Burringbar St, Mullumbimby Cafe: 6684 2220 Mon-Fri 8-4, Sat 9-2 Restaurant: 6684 2227 Wed-Fri from 4pm Sat from 2pm www.latable.com.au

Caf: First Caf in the shire to offer quality espresso coffee & organic milk! Modern Wholesome Caf food & house baked pastries. Relax in our tropical courtyard with friendly professional service. Resto: Late afternoon Share a drink with something to taste Evening: Live life deliciously with our creative fortnightly changing menu! French Chef Bruno passionately recreates bistro classics using high quality produce. Reviewed and recommended by SMH Good Food Guide since 2009 & Top 10 Sustainable NSW Rest!

st elmo dining room & bar

TUESDAY NIGHT is a slow-cooked braise dinner $28 for one course. $35 for two courses. $39 for 3 courses. (includes a glass of wine) SUNDAYS we have live music and $10 cocktails from 3pm-5:30pm. St Elmo is a place where you can enjoy great company, first-class food, sophisticated cocktails and an extensive wine list. St Elmo is plating up modern Spanish cuisine to be enjoyed amongst friends and family. Our menus change regularly and feature daily specials.

Yum Yum Tree Caf

The Yum Yum Tree was a traditional meeting place for the first Australians of our area. A place to take sustenance, and catch up with old and new friends. Come notice the extra flair, enthusiasm and personal touch of the Yum Yum Tree Caf team, a collection of professional, down to earth people, enjoying their day serving you the tastiest meals and drinks. www.yumyumtreecafe.com.au Artisan pizzas hand crafted on the premises using the freshest local produce and the best of traditional and modern styles. Selection of flat breads. Large range of vegetarian pizzas and pastas. Gluten-free base available.

32 Lawson St, 6680 8198 LICENSED MEXICAN RESTAURANT Open 7 nights from 5.30pm

Takeaway, dine in and home delivery BYO Open 7 days from 5pm Suffolk Park Shopping Centre 6685 3101

Open 7 days 7am-2pm 25 Childe St Belongil (next to Treehouse) silver bullet cafe

Lunch from 11am Dinner from 5.30pm 07 5536 2277 or visit www.twintowns.com.au

Traditional Thai
Dinner every evening 5.30-9.30pm 5/2 Fletcher St, Byron Bay 6685 5151

Here the curry pastes are freshly pounded to leave your palate dumbfounded. Here the ambrosial meals are cooked to order and the scrumptious cocktails and mocktails thrust you in a land of wonderful tails.

Luscious Foods
1/6 Tasman Way, Byron Arts & Industry Estate 6680 8228
www.lusciousfoods.com.au info@lusciousfoods.com.au

Luscious Foods aim to provide the freshest, first class quality handmade food for your event. Whether your function is a cocktail party, wedding, conference, picnic or intimate, Luscious is here to help create delicious menus to suit your tastes and budget.

COORABELL

Wilsons by The Creek

FRIDAY AND SATURDAY NIGHT DINNER FROM 6PM SUNDAY GRAZING WITH LIVE MUSIC TILL SUNSET DISHES FROM $7!

The French really know how to do it. Baguettes, croissants, macarons Mullumbimby local Greg Wilton knew this when he went to New Caledonia to train under French pastry chefs. Using local, organic 5/108 Stuart Street, and natural ingredients, Greg is baking his range Mullumbimby of delectable pastries, breads and cakes, all made 0466 605 007 from Scratch. The next time youve got a celebration info@scratchpatisserie.com.au or lazy morning to enjoy, do it deliciously order scratchpatisserie.com.au online or find them at the Byron Bay Farmers Market.

SCRATCH PATISSERIE

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The Byron Shire Echo October 9, 2012 31

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SILVER BULLET CAFE

Come and see the only 1964 Silver Bullet Airstream caravan operating as $3 coffees and a cafe in Australia! Experience Byron Bay's best breakfast $7 wraps! wraps and sensational coffee. Take your breakfast with you across the road to Belongil Beach and watch the dolphins play or just sit and relax at our tables and catch up with friends.

Horizons

Overlooking the sparkling blue waters of the Jack Evans Boat Harbour at Twin Towns is Horizons restaurant. Enjoy a friendly atmosphere with casual indoor or alfresco dining where you can take in our spectacular views. Bring a friend to Horizons for High Tea available 7 days in the afternoon from 2.30pm to 4.30pm for an extra special afternoon delight!

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The Aztec Byron Bay

All the favourites Nachos, Enchiladas, Burritos etc Extensive vegetarian options. TWO UP TUESDAY - Buy one main meal and receive a second main meal FREE from 5.30pm. Now offering TWO UP FRIDAY- Same great deal on Fridays! Inexpensive and extensive cocktail list. $20 Group Bookings. Menu for bookings of 15 or more. Takeways and Children's Menu available. Conditions Apply.

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all day breakfast from 7 to 4 daily changing dinner 5 to 10 bar until midnight... if you want fresh pasta every lunch great wines at bottle shop prices boutique beers - cool cocktails brunch - dinner - snacks restaurant guerillas