Textile Calculation | Different Formula of Textile Calculation
TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
Ramandeep Singh
B.Tech, Dept. of Textile Engineering
Giani Zail Singh Punjab Technical University Campus,
Bathinda, Punjab, India
Email: rmnsandhu3335@gmail.com
FIBER FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS
Micronaire Value (Cotton): The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch
length
of
fibre,
expressed
in
micrograms(0.000001
gram).
Denier
(Man-Made
Fibres):
Weight
in
grams
per
9000
meters
of
fibre.
Micron (Wool): Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)
Conversions:
Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value
Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier
YARN
It is broadly classified into;
1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM
INDIRECT SYSTEM
COUNTS
English count (Ne)
French count(Nf)
Metric count(Nm)
Worsted count
Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per
Kg.
Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)
Nm = length meter / weight in grams
DIRECT SYSTEM
Tex count
Denier
CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS
Tex
Tex
Ne
590.54/tex
Den
tex x 9
Nm
1000/tex
Grains/yd
Where,
tex / 70.86
Nm
Den
Nm
Grains/yd
den/9
1000/Nm
gr.yd x 70.86
5314.9/den
Nm x .5905
8.33 / gr/yd
9000/Nm
gr/yd x 637.7
9000/den
14.1 / gr/yd
den / 637.7
metric
count,
14.1/Nm
Nec
cotton
CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS
Ounce
Ounce
Grains
0.03527
ounces
Grams
0.03527
grains
Grains
Grams
437.5 grains
28.350
grams
Kilograms Pounds
0.0648
grams
15.432
grains
0.001 kgs
count
35.274
ounces
Kilograms
Pounds
2.2046
pounds
15432 grains 1000 grams
453.59
grams
16.0 ounces 7000 grains
0.4536 kgs
CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES
Yard
Yard
Feet
Inches
Centimeter
Meter
3 feet
36 inches
91.44 cms
0.9144
meter
12 inches
30.48 cms
0.3048
meter
2.54 cms
0.254
meter
Feet
0.3333
yards
Inches
0.0278
yards
0.0833 feet
Centimeter
0.0109
yards
0.0328 feet
Meter
1.0936
yards
3.281 feet 39.37 inches
0.3937
inches
0.01meter
100 cms
CALCULATIONS
Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
Ne = Nm/1.693
DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605
WINDING
1.
Slub
a.
Fixed
catcher
Blade
=
Combed
settings
Carded
(1.5
(2.0
to
to
2.5)
2.0)
x
diameter
diameter
b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter
Diameter
in
inch
for
Blended
=
yarn
10
=
to
1/(
15%
28
x
more
count
)
settings
Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
2.Yarn clearer efficiency=...........................................................................................x 100
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding
3.
Knot
4.
Retained
5.
Winding
Total
breaks
factor
No.
of
breaks
Strength
strength
splice
Tension
during
winding
(at
faults)
=...............................................................................
due
to
objectionable
yarn
faults
0.1
of
spliced
joint
x
100
=
...........................................................
Strength
of
parent
yarn
Single
yarn
4500
6. Expected efficiency E = ......................................................
S
x
N
strength
x
in
grams
Y
(12
98)
7. Winders workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per
shift
of
8
hours
Where,
1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
1 doffing = 2 operations
8. Winders workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours
Where,
1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation
Y
=
B
=
S
=
C = English count
Length/Bobbin
Breaks
per
Winding
speed
(metres)
bobbin
(metres/min)
9. Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
10. P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
WARPING
1.
R
Efficiency
Machine
x
E
R
Uninterrupted
running
time
for
1,000
1000
x
.................................................
Machine
speed
100
=.............................
+
meters
(in
S
sec)
60
in
mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters
B
T1
T2
T3
R
400
---------------L
LxC
------
B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters
N = Number of ends
L = Set length in 1,000 meters
C = Beams per creel
-----------
T4
Timing of activities in seconds are :
T1 = To mend a break
T2 = To change a beam
T3 = To change a creel
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.
2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.
3.
Production
4.
Warping
in
Kgs.
Tension
per
=
hrs.
0.03
=
to
(K
N)/(1693
0.05
Single
English
Count)
thread
strength
SIZING
1.
Warp
2.
Size
3.
4.
weight
pick-up
Weight
Stretch
of
Length
in
metre
x
1.094
x
Total
ends
kg.) = x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count
(in
Sized
warp
weight
Unsized
warp
weight
% = x 100
Un-sized
warp
weight
size
Sized
%
=
Warp
Weight
Size
pick
up
warp
length
Unsized
warp
length
x
100
Un-sized
warp
length
Total-ends
Warp
length
in
yards
5.
Sized
yarn
count
=
Sized
warp
weight
(lbs)
x
840
Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn
6. % of Moisture content= x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver
counter
reading
Feed
counter
7. % of Stretch = x 100
Feed
counter
8.
840,000
on
loom
=
454 Y x N x P
Droppings
D = Dropping in gms.
C
=
Y = Length woven (yds.)
N
=
P = % size add on
9.
=
x
D
x
.
English
reading
reading
C
x
100
Count
Number
of
Invisible
Ends
Loss%
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
.....................x
100
Amount
of
size
issued
Steam,
Consumption
(Cooker)
=
(Sow
box)
10.
Max.
11.
Wt.
Speed
of
(Sizing
0.3
=
of
M/c)
0.2
No. of
machine
warp
=
2.0
kg/kg
of
kg/kg
of
kg/kg
of
sized
yarn
liquor
yarn
Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
=
(metres/min)
Number
of
ends
Number
in
of
gms/mtr
English
ends
=
x
0.6
count
WEAVING
1.
Reed
Reed
Count
width
It
is
=
calculated
in
stock
port
EPI
system.
1
No.
of
dents
2.
+
in
Weft
inches
Reed
Reed
width
is
called
%age
Reed
Width
100
Cloth
3.
crimp
+
width
Count
:
Weft
crimp
%age
100
Crimp
Warp
Crimp
Weft
Crimp
4.
%
:
Warp
length
Cloth
%age
=.
Cloth
length
Weft
%age
EPI
cover
Warp
length
Cloth
Cloth
length
factor
Warp
length
x
100
length
100
....................................
Count
PPI
5.
Weft
cover
factor
=.
Weft
6.
Cloth
7.
factor
Maximum
a.
Wp.C.F.
EPI
For
for
plain
fabrics
Wt.C.F.
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.
.
28
particular
count
14
:
Count
b.
For
drill
fabrics
Count
28
4/6
c.
For
satin
fabric
Count
28
5/7
d.
8.
cover
count
Other
Yarn
Ends/repeat
x
1
/
yarn
diameter
design
=
..
No.
of
intersections
/
repeat
+
ends/repeat
diameter
28
1
=
x
Count
Weave
1.
Density
Warp
density
Ends/cm
=
2.
Filling
density
Picks/cm
=
3.
Weave
(Warp
=
50
(Weft
Density
Tex
<
250
x
Tex
<
350
density
100)
x
F.D.100
+
density
100)
x
F.D.100
4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72
Count Table
To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the
same denseness of the fabric :
1.
To
change
the
EPI
without
altering
the
denseness
EPI in given cloth x Warp count in expected
EPI in Exp.Cloth =
2.
EPI
To
in
Warp
change
exp.
cloth
Warp count in given cloth
the
count
without
altering
=
the
EPI
in
exp.
x Count
EPI
in
given
requirement
to
weave
:
cloth
denseness
cloth2
in given
cloth
cloth
cloth
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =..............................................x Wasteage%
840
x
Count
2.
Weft
weight
in
R.S.
in
inches
x
=x
Crimp
840 x Count
453.59
x
gms/mtrs.
x
Waste
PPI
%
3. Cloth length in mtrs.with the given weft weight
Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
=.
PPI x R.S. in inches
For
Silk
1.
and
Warp
weight
Total
ends
x
..............x
Polyester
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.
RS
in
inches
x
=
........
in
Crimp%
9000
Count
x
gms/mtrs.
(Denier)
Waste
%age
PPI
x
Count
x
Crimp%
x
9000
(Denier)
Wasteage%
Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :
Count becomes 4%
Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser
FABRIC
PRODUCTION
1.
Motor
RPM
Loom
2.
Loom
Loom
speed
Efficiency
Motor
pulley
diameter
.
pulley
diameter
Actual
production
=
------------------------------x
Calculated
production
100
3.
Moisture
Regain
4.
Moisture
5.
Warp
6.
Weft
7.
Cloth
8.
Oz
Yarn
% =
Content
weight
in
weight
weight
dried
yarn
----------------------------------------------Yarn
weight
Total
ends
in
Kg.
=
1693.6
weight
(Ounce)
x
Tape
length
in
metre
-----------------------------------------------------x
Warp
count
EPI
-----------------count
GSM =
Warp
per
GSM
sq.yard
(D
=
Where,
L
=
Length
t
=
Thickness
D
=
Outside
d = Inside diameter (inches)
PPI
-------------------- x 25.6
Weft
count
(Grams
per
sq.
metre)
=
-------------------------------------------34
measurement
length
of
of
0.0655
weight
x 100
RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI
Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------------------4301.14
x
Weft
count
in
Material
For
calculating
L
Yarn
weight
Dryed
yarn
weight
% = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed
yarn
weight
:
any
rolled
fabrics
d)
(D
+
--------------------------------t
of
of
material
fabrics
diameter
:
d)
(feet)
(inches)
(inches)
Weight
of
yarn
in
a
cloth
:
The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and
weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ----------------------------------------------------840
x
Warp
yarn
count
Also
Weight
of
weft
in
Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width
= ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------840 x Weft yarn count
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lbs.
(inch)
