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Woodsmith Magazine - 115
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© © All Rights Reserved
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/ 36
Serving Tray & Stand * Lantern-Base Lamp ® Hall Tree * Cutting Half Laps * Dado Blades
CUTTING ATLAS
Projects, Tips & Techniques [i]
bs No. 115 February, 1998
Publisher Donald Peschice
Editor Terry Stotmen
Ascosiate Fditors JonGarbison
‘Viren Ancona
ArtDirector Todd Lamtieth
Senior Iustraters David Keeling
Dirl Ver Stoeg
Mike Minermeler
‘CREATIVE RESOURCES
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BOOKS
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* Sor Grate Despre Cars Gack
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‘CORPORATE SERVICES
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‘Manager Gorden Cape » Wed St Ar Dineor Gene
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WOODSMITH MAIL ORDER
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EDITOR’
[COR e Ny
SAWDUST
U- when we get together and
startialking abput the projets for
an upcoming issue, one of the first
things we discuss ishow we wantthe
project to look. We spend quite bit
of time making sure the proportions
are right and al ofthe design details
‘work well together.
Once the look ofa projects fina
led, we siart talking about what
type of joinery to use to get all the
pieces to ft together
Butwith two ofthe projects inthis
issue we took the opposite approach,
We started with the joinery — half
Japs in this case. And then we
designed the look ofthe projects
WA APS, Now I realize that by
itself a single halflapis probably not
too interesting, After all, its just @
notch that fie into another notch in a
mating workpiece,
Yet as simple as they are, half laps
can have a dramatic effect on the
appearance of a project. When you
ccuta Series of half laps on a number
of workpieces they createa grid that
turns an ordinary project into some-
thing special.
SERVING TRAY. The serving tray fea
tured on page 6 isa perfect example.
‘The bottom of this tray could have
been a thin piece of plywood,
Instead, we made it much more
interesting by using thin strips of
wood that appear to be woven
together like a basket. Butreally, the
strips are joined with hel laps to
create astrong, lightweight tray.
Woods
lume. The other project in this
issue dat features a half lap grid is
the lantermbase lamp on page 16.
This time, I didn't have to worry
about malcing the grid strong. What
T wanted was a delicate looking
‘wood grid that wrapped around the
top of the lamp base like an ole-fash-
{oned lanter
But there's more w this project
than a simple grid. What makes it
really shine is the way it lights up.
You can turn on a stall bulb in the
base for « sof, diffuse light. There's
also a regular bulb for reading. Or
you can use both et the same time.
(We used a special type of turn-knob
socket thatallows you to operate two
bulbs from the same switch.)
WEB PAGE. The last thing Pd like to
mention is our Web page. If you've
never seen it (or if i's been awhile
since you've visited), check it out
‘We're always adding something new.
Currently, we have project plans
and a database of projects and art
les in Woodsmith and ShopNotes.
Pls there's lots of woodworking
tips, techniques and tool reviews.
And recently, we added an online
‘woodworking catalog. To see what's
sping on, point your browser to
LNTTP: ww. wooDsmiTH.coM,
‘And while you're atit, end us an
cemuail and give us some feedback.
Or suggest some projects you'd like
to sce in Weodemith. We're always
fad to hear from you.
No. 115 Ure)
INSIDE
CONTENTS
Features
Serving Tray & Stand ..............0..0. 6
This lade ray serves up some interesting woodworking. The grid
inthe centr is created with half aps. And forthe optional stand,
‘ow can try your hand at making a dowel to allow the legs of the
‘sand to pivot. Allin allies a project that’s sure to come in hardy
Cutting Half Laps pete
Tf you're looking for a good, solid “meat and potatoes” joint that
can be made quickly, half laps may be just the ticket. Here, we
walk you through the procedure for cuing half laps, along with
some shop-tested tips for getting a perfect-fitting joine
Lantern-Base Lamp ..................... 16
This lamp has an interesting design of half-lap grids on the sides.
Bue the real surprise comes when you tum it om. A small bulb in
the base of the lamp casts a lantern-like glow.
Hallirees insite mee
Home is where you hang your hat. And this hall ree makes a
‘great home jor your hat (and your coat). Plus the interlocking
design will keep your guests wondering how it was put together.
DadojBladesiey ns... ts.s con eee 28
Despite the name, dado blades do « lot more than just cut dadoes.
Here are some helpful tips on how to select and use this mportant
table saw “accessory.”
Storage Contest Winners .
The envelope pease..the resuls are in for our shop storage con-
test. The winners include a cut-off rack, a wall storage system
and d portable seorage bin
Departments
Tips & Techniques ...
Shop Notes
Talking Shop
Sources....... :
No. 115 Woodsmith FROM FELLOW
enon
Louvered Doors
Awhile back, Iwas building
‘smal wall cabinet that
called for louvered doors,
But instead of making a
complicated jig to rout the
slots fr the Iouversin the
door stiles, [ came up with
a different method that
allowed me to quickly cut
the slois ona table saw.
made a “louver strip” by
cutting the slots on a sepa
rate blank, see drawing.
‘Thenthe blank is glued into
a groove cut onthe edge of
the door sie
Tea the grooves in the
exlges ofthe doorsflesfist.
This way, the lower strips
can be sized to fit in the
‘grooves perfectly after the
slots areca
“The slots can be mace
on the table saw by sim-
ply cutting a series of
THIRD: Glue stp nto groove
angled kerfs using the
miter gauge, see detail‘.
An auxiliary fence is
attached to the face of the
miter gauge to back up
the blank while cuting the
erfs to prevent tearout.
Spindle Sander Jointer
[don't have ajointer in my
shop, so I came up with a
way to use my oscillating
spinclle sander for jointing
edges. Ijustmade a simple
*Jolnting” fen
‘The fence is nothing
more than astraight board
with a Ushaped cut out to
fit eround the drum of my
oscillating spindle sander.
‘Then to create an offset
between the front and back
ofthe fence, [shaved about
Yo" ofthe “infeed” side of
the fence, see detail ‘a’.
(The deeper the cut, the
slower youtl have to feed
the workpiece.)
To use the fence,
simply clamp ito the
top of the sander so
thedrum isflash with
the “outieed” edge of
the fence. Thenallyou
have to do is feed
beardsalong the fence
past the sanding
drum, see photo,
Cort Santon
Linde, N. Covina
Woodsmith
RSF Cut groove in edge of door stil
‘SECOND: Cut angled kertsin louver stip
Kerare cst
2020" orgie
nee the kerfs are all ing the louvers, just mnake
cut, the blanks can be sure to size the thiclmess
ripped to width to ftinthe _ofyourlouvers tomiatch the
roovesin he stiles Then width of the kerfs in the
they are glued intothedoor door stiles.
stiles and sanded flush, Tom Balph
‘When it comes to mak- Mesa, Artzona
eye
Pare
a0 Clamping Jig
Tye always kad a difficult wedges and moveable
ee ee
bar orpipe clamps to giue The base ofthejigisjust
up small panels or frames, apiece af 4@"thick plywood
‘The size and weight ofthe _ with some holes drilled in
clamps makes them it (1 made my base 15"
unwieldy. So instead, 1 square). First, holes are
‘came up with a gluing and drilled in two opposite cor. base. The arms are noth: arms to pivot freely.
clamping jig that can be noroforthe hardware that ing more than a couple A.couple 1/!'dia, hard
‘used for small projects. is used toattach the arms. pieces of %/!!thick hard- wood dowels and wedges
My jig uses a couple of Then, a series of holes is wood, They're attached to complete the clanging jig
pivoting arms to trap the drilled in an arc around the hase ofthejigwith car. By mavingthe dawels to a
workpieces. The arms each pivot hole.Theseare riage bolts, washers, and diferent set of holes, vou
; equalize the pressure along for the removable dowel lock nuts, see drawing — can clamp up workpieces
the length of the edges pinsthat areadded later, —_below, The lock nuts are of various sizes.
Next, the two pivoting not tightened down alll the ‘Paul Murphey
arms can be added to the way in order to allow the ‘Sydney, Nowa Soria
SN toknn Ea
Dail counteroores Seer
on bottom of base
fer ceriage vat hasos
oe Fora long time, Fused a pipe
Instead of placing wax the wax paper. And the clamp rack that consisted of
paper down on my lip around the cookie couple of rails, each with a
Dench when gluing up shetkeepssmllpieoes row of holes, The problem I
suallpiecesTuseanor from rolling or “wan- found vith this type of rack
‘slick cookie sheet. ering off.” was that [alvays had a hard
The cookie sheet R.B.Hlines time trying to slip the end of
doesnt side around ike Yiwu Ghe the clamp through the hole in
the botiom rail. And some of
‘my clamps were to0 short to
Aree ent mad even. reach the holes in the
dekh bottom ral,
‘To solve this problem, I
‘med a new damp rack with
Pv sleeves. 1 simply drilled
‘oversize holes in both the top
‘and bottom rails, Then Igiued
a length of PYC pipe in each
pair of holes. Now Idon't have
‘any problem sliding the clamp
right int its “holster”
Roger Bo
Vedios, Wisconsin
Woodssnith UV uO) U3
PROJECT
SERVING TRAY & STAND
Like the weave of a basket, the grid in the center of this tray creates a light,
elegant look. And building it is a matter of cutting afew simple half laps
Jguring out why I think
this serving tray is so
tractive isnttoo dificult
Its the grid in the center.
‘This simple grid, bit wich
hualflaps, lightens the ook.
‘ofthe ray and transforms
an otherwise plain, func-
tional project into a
rather elegant one.
The nice thing
‘about this half lap
‘gid is that ifs not
as ificltto build as
youmight expect Allthe
hhaflapsare cut in blanks
that start out extra wide,
50 the repetitious workis
kept toa minimum, And
ncealltheleps arecutin
1M increments, there’s not
a lot of setup time cither
(For more on cutting halt
Japs, see page 12)
STAND. After coming up
with the design for the
tray, we thought it might
benicetoaddasiand,Thisstand can bing. But whet’s especially helpful is thing Td like to mention about this,
come in handy ifyou don’t have a thatthe standis sizedtofit“into” the tray. With most projects, you can
‘good surface to ect the tray on. bottom of the trey. The sides of the choose from a variety of woods and
ur stand pivots open and closed tray formalliparound the bottom, so _ the project will stil look just as nice.
onacross dowel And it's held open the traysits securely onthe stand. __Thisistruehereas well You could
with a conple straps of nylon web- WOOD SEIECTN. There's one other build this project out of mahogany
(like we ci, cherry, maple, or wal
Tfyow'd like > ‘ut. However, you'll probably want to
a place w set this avoid wood that has wild or pro-
ay, you can also nounced grain (like oak or ash). It
build an optional, would tend to compete with the
folding and, straight lines ofthe grid. So tik to
see page 10. ‘wood that haste grain pattern or
‘one that has a strait grain pattern
Of course, youre going to need a
straight 1'“dia. dowel in whatever wood
Youchoose. And we founditeasiest to
make our own, see page 90,
Woodsmith No. 115 Construction
Details
oveeau pensions:
Sie aw eTSeD
Tayatdfome
rah
embles
rider joints
iene
Bepaye 12 erton
otfstard
MATERIALS
A Grd dono () — %4x1-17%
B Gnohon)(®) — 4x1- 11%
© Frame Fronv/Oack 21% x 174 - 20%
D frame Encs (2) Yex Wh- 14%
E Tray FrontBack 2) Yex194-21%
F TrayEnds(2) Mex 3egh.- 15%
G Legs (a) Wx Mh Ne
H Cross Dowel (1) -dia. » 20%4
1
Crossbar (Long) (1) 4x 1%argh. - 20%
3. Crossbar (Short (1) %2x Terah. - 18%
SUPPLIES
+ (1) 1--wide Nylon Webbing (48 long)
* (4) #6 x96" Rh Woodscrews wiWashers
* (4) #4.x 1%" Fh Woodscrews:
+ (2) %"-dia. x 1* Dowel Pins
+ (2) Ye"-dia. x Vs" Mahogany Plugs
+ (2)34" LD. Shop-made Plastic Washers
may
oe Frame captures
paame "“tentsr gre
Bus ‘in grocue
may
Rou
nylon wetbin
feopere and
4 chtsoy ends
nore
Serving way 5
Bune then
Stand iesoed!
tehald tay
Wr Br 2a" Mahogany (25 Sq.Ft)
CUTTING DIAGRAM
NOTE: Also reed apiece of 54 stock 24" long (ough) i 1". dowel snot avaiable.
No. 15
Woodsmith ‘A Before glue up the
Tray
‘To build this tray. worked om he
inside out, starting with the grid in
the center of the tray.
GRID
Buiding the Vi'thick grid is easier
than you might expect. For onething,
the individual pieces start outas wie
Dlanks, refer to Figs. 1 and 2.Teut
five -wide blanks forthe grid —two
that were 17//"long and three 1112"
Jong. Gut make atleast one more
Dlanleforatest piece)
a :
NO a Sa 2 nu
Ee, ee
cen,
blank, see Fig. 1. Todo this, | ene?
used the router table, routing
arabbet with a" dia straight
bitraised exactly hlfthe thick
ness of the stock (14,
Shop‘Tip: When cutting the
rabhets, place the good fare of This blank is used to set the stop need tomaketwo passes over the bit
‘each blank down oa the table. blockontheauxilary fence soallthe for each. But you don't have to reset
———<—
With the blanks cut to size, (@. sie view repr ery -
the next step is to create a o— l a
tongue on both ends of each +t
pieces ofthe rid, [dry CUT WAIF UPS. After the rab others will end up identical the fence. For the second pass, I
assembled them and bets are routed, the half laps ‘The only thing to keep in mind is placed a ¥4" spacer between the blank
checked ro make sure canbecut, sce Fig. 2andarti- thelapsaren'tallroutedonthe same end the stop, referto page 15.
they were square cle on page 12. For this grid, face. On the lng blanks, theyre on RPTOWDIA. Aer thehaflape aro Ws
the half laps in the long andthe opposite face as the rabbet, see cut on the blanks, the individual grid
short blanks are identical (I" wide detail’a’ Forthe short blanks, theyre pieces (A, B)can becutto final width
and spaced 1" apart), see detail ‘a’ routed on thesameface asthe rabbet. to fitinto the half laps.
above. So [laid out theselaps on the Another thing to point out is that ASSEMBLY. ACthis point, the grid can
top (good) face of one Tong blank. these half laps are 1" wide. So you'll_beassembled. First I dry assembled
Woodsmith No.115 the pieces (good face down), using a
framing square to make sure the
> sscembiy was square, see photo in
left margin. Then I removed each
short piece, applied a drop of glue to
the laps, and replaced i. And tokkeep_
the assembly fai, I placed a piece of
plywood and aheavy weight on it.
FRAME, SIDES & HANDLES
After the grid is completed, the next
Steg is to build the frame around it.
FRAME, To make the frame, I start
ced by ripping the front, back (C)
hore:
and ends (D) to width (1%) from 0% back spd ond
1YMbick stock, sce drawing at left Farman”
But before mitering these pieces
to length, first cut grooves tohold the
tongues on the grid, see Figs. 3 and
a. The grooves are positioned so the
‘tops ofthe grid and frame willbe flush.
| With the grooves cut, the frame
pieces can be mitered to fit around
the grid, see drawing at left. To find
the lengths of these pieces, I mea
sured from shoulderto-shoulder on
the grid pieces. Then the frame can
© gm eeived aroune the end
‘Now before making the ron, back a.
; and ends ofthe tray, cuta rabbet along nls S Se qroore
the bottom edge ofthe frame to cre- OO es 4 vofelerae
iva "x Yt tongue, see Fig. 4. : pene
TRAY FRONT, BACK & NDS. The front,
Inadeand ends ofthe tray wrap around
the frame. I started by ripping }4"- "
thick blanks to width, see drawing 7 U
above. The way front and back (EB)
are 9%wide (all) but the ends )
are "to allow for the handles. there are couple things to do first. ‘Thenext thing to dois round over
Next to hold the tongues on the First, I cutthe curve along the top the top and bottom edges of the front,
frame, cut "x 4" grooves 1" from _ of each end piece (F) and sanded it back and end pieces (including the
the bottom of exch piece, see Fig.5, smooth, see details and Fig. 6.Then handle opening), se detail’
With the grooves cut, the front, created the opening forthe handle Nowalltha's leftist ge the tray
back and ends canbe mitered to wrap _ by drilling two %%"-dia. holes and pieces around the frame, see Fig. 7.
around the frame, see drawing. But removing the waste between them Just make sure you center theclamp-
before you can give them in place, withasabresaw,scedesal a’ nig pressureon the fra.
teh
Ee
tnd
‘NOTE: Start curve,
2 introm ord of
Cworplece
No. 115 Woodsmith 9 wide
ebbing —
[ire 3" thick
Crasibors ae Ve thick
1k The stand for he sersing ray pivots on a
crass dowel s ie can be folded up and put
‘away until che next cime it's needed,
Stand
Aer the serving tray is complete,
you can build the stand, The stand
folds onacross dowel, and two straps
of nylon webbing keep it from open
ing too far, see photo above
lees. To build the stand, [started by ;
sipping the four legs G) to finished / Make ploos
width (129 from "thick stock, see —— beg eter
drawing and detail’?
Now to get the legs to rest flat on
the floor when the stand is opened, [ f a
beveled the ends while cutting them atthe center, see drawing, [found it cutthe dowelto thistenzth (26°,
to engt 224"). Todo this, angled easiest wo start withthe cross dowel Next,Leuta°4¥a, tenon on each
the miter gauge 24° and added an and thea cute bars tofitlaes. end oe dowel, see Figs. and 9a.
aiiary fence and a stop block so The only prublemisfindinga "dia. Cutting tenons onadowelisro peob-
they'd end up identical. And after dowelthat’s straight ndmaiches the lem; [typically use my table caw, soe
they're cut to size, Tals chamfered wood. We had adiffcultimefinding photoin margin and page 20. Bu
the bottom tp of the leg so it would amehogeny dowel for his project,s0 uring out the length ofthe tenon on
A Toute tenon on roteatchonthe carpet, scedetal’b’ _wemade our own. Fortunately, thisis each end isa bit more work
the endofadowel All thats lett to complete the legs simple procedkire. Allyouneedisa Each tenon on the cross dowel
wihauble saw. is todrilla "dia hole atthe center 4" round-pver bit and an auxiliary should match the thickness of the
Refer wo this cof each leg to hold the tenon on tite extension for your router table, For two legs (1¥%") with a Ao" gap
simple echnigque dowel, see Fig. 8. ‘more on this technique, see page 30. between the stand and the tray. But
on page 30. (ROSS DOWEL. With thelegscutout, Cutting the cross dowel (H) to didn't want the legs to rub against
it’s time to connect them — with size is easy. I simply measured cach other and wear away the finish,
crossharsat the topand acrossdowel between the handles on the tray:and so Ladded a shop-macle plastic wash-
NOTE Tarate
Blste washer
See boxes ge
10 Woodsmith No. 15 € (Ao"thick) between them, see box
below. Adding up the legs and wash-
cand allowing for the gap between
the tray and stand, my tenons ended
up 1%e" long, sec Fig. 9a. Note that
when the tenonsarecutto thislength,
they will stick out roughly i" This
excess can be quickly sented oft.
‘Aer the tenonsarecut the keesare
ready to be attached to the cross
dowel, see Figs, 9 and 9a, Again, i
was hard to find a¥f"dia. mahogany
dowel to pin the outside legs. So
instead, used a "Jong maple dowel,
‘see detail ‘x'in drawing on page 10.
Then | ied the holes with 14"-long.
plugs. (/used a plug cutter)
RosstaRs. Now, the tops ofthe legs
can be connected with "-thick
crossbars (I, J), see Fig. 10. The
inside edge ofthese piecesis beveled
24° to match the angle of the legs
‘And they are cut to length fo span
‘across the legs. (My long crossbar
‘was 2s the short one was 1596)
WEBRING. AMter the crossbars were
screwed to the lezs, I added the 1!"
‘widenyion webbing that prevents the
legs from opening too far | aligned
the webbing with the first grid piece
near each end. And to makessure the
‘webbing was he right lenath,Ifpped
the tray upside down and setthe stand
upside down inside the tay, see Fig.
11, This war, when Tserewed the web-
‘bing to the crossbars, it would end
up the exactlength needed,
TINH, Finishing the stand is easy.
‘The tray with its grid is alittle more
difficult So instead of trying to wipe
‘or brush the finish in the grid open-
ings, | found it easier to spray on a
‘couple coats of finish, I used Deft
spray-on Jacque)
‘Yo keep the legs from rubbing
together and wearing off the n-
ish, I added a plastic washer
‘between them. But afer a tripto a
couple hardware sires, [decided
it would be much easier just to
ake my om iy ieee of
astic will work. (happened,
tse aeoffe can lid)
No. 115
stand fitsin
Tp under vo
‘Sandwich plastic first, sand- Drill holes. Next cri 34*-cfa. Cut out washers. Finally,
Wich 2coffee canlid between holes to match thessize of the dravvtwo 1 la, orces and
two peres of pljvocd. ‘enon on the cross done cut them out with scisors.
Woodgmith 1 WOODWORKING
TECHNIQUE
“They're strong and quick. The
Jointsaressrons because there'sa lot
offacetoface surface fora good glue
int And halflaps are quick because
both workpieces can usually be cut
with the same setup.
To cut ahalflap, half the thickness
‘of each piece is removed so the two
‘overt and their faces are fash. In
most cases [use a table saw and a
‘allo blade Butihere are times when
Ipreferthe router table, see page 15.
1 should also point out that halflaps
‘are versatile, They ean be cut on the
‘ent ofthe pieces to create a frame,
see next page, Or they ean becut in
the middle to create a grid, see page
14, The concepts the same, but the
procedures are abit different.
xker THAMES. There are Ovo keys
to cuttingahallap successfully First,
‘you want to make cure all the blanks
are exactly the same thickness. If
theyre not (orifyour thickness plar-
er “snipes” the ends of the pieces so
theyre sightly thinned, then itl be
Impossible to cut the halflaps so the
rating pices are flash onboth faces.
‘ARGFUL BLADE SUP. The otfer key
to cutting accurate balf laps isto set
the blade tothe proper height — the
blade hast be raised exactiyhalfthe
thickness ofthe stock
To gettthe blade cose to the right
height quickly Isartwithatestriece
and set the blade just under half the
thickness. (Any test pieces must be
the same thickness as the work:
pieces.) Then I make two passes on
the same end, fipping the test piece
‘over between passes, see Fig. |
‘Whatyou end up withis atiny siv-
‘erof wood ai the center ofthe piece,
Now raise the blade half theheight of
‘the sliverand repeat this process until
the sliver is just removed,
Now you'reready to test the setup
with two test pieces, see Fig. 2. Todo
this, you need to cut the hal lap
like youwill on the goad workrieces,
refer to Figs.4and 5 Ifthere’sasoall
shoulder, you'll need to adjust the
Blade up or down depending on
whether the la is too deepor shallow.
Be patient here, ifthe hall laps are
aoffnow, they're sure to be off later.
Sotake the time to getthe setup per
fect. And one more thing. Is impor
tant to be as consistent as possible
‘when cutting the half laps (applying
the same downward pressure on all
rieees, forinstance). Otherwise, you
‘can end up with half laps that are
Woodsmith
aces of plecee—
shoud te fed
No. 115 End Laps
‘Whenever younced to create a quick,
‘strong frame, end laps are a good
‘choice. I typically use my table saw,
making multiple passes over a dado
blade, refer to Fig. 4. And to suppart
‘the workpieces, I use an auxiliary
fence atached tthe miter gauge.
exc ser. The rst sep to cating
‘end laps is to get your dado blade set
tothe rightheight see previowspage.
‘Once that's done, all that's leftis to set
upastop to establish the width of the
cut. Most times, se my rip fence
28a Sop [se itso the with from
the onside ofthe dado bla to the
fence equals the width of the work-
pieces, see Pig: 3. (Por more on using
the rp fenceasa stop, ee pege 14)
{MULTE ASSIS, Now thelaps ean be
‘cut on both ends of each piece, see
Fig. 4. Usually the workpieces are
wider than the dado blade, so you
have to make multiple passes:To do
‘this, simply cut the shoulder passand
then slide the piece away from the
fence and make another pass until all
the waste is removed.
‘LEANN TH CHEE. With sore dato
blades, these passes will eave tiny
-groaves along the cheeks of the half
Jap, see Fig. Sa. These tiny grooves are
going to show, but you can remove
them in one of two ways.
One way to remove most of these
grooves is to push the piece over the
blade slowly while moving it side-to-
side, see Fig 5. (Is ike pating your
head while rubbing your stomach)
‘The other method you can use
create cleaner half lap cheeks, but it
requires a different technique with
an extra setup, see box below.
setuP. After some light finish sande
ing, is time to assemble the frame,
sce Fig, 6. (fyou are adding a grid
inside the frame, youll need to cut
the cross lps frst) End laps aren't
chiteaseasy to assemble asthey are
to cut. This isn't a big deal. You just
hraveto be careful that the frame goes
together square without any gaps.
End laps require clamping pres
sue in three directions, see Fig. 6
First ciamp the workpieces against
the shoulders of the mating pieces
‘Then when I've checked that the
assembly is square, [add clampsat
each corner too.
8 u
‘With atlas youcan
ddo more than just build a
simple fame. Forboththelemp
andthe serving ray inthis isue, we
used halflaps to create agri To do
this, series ofhalflaps are cut along,
the center ofthe workpieces so they
cross over each other.
To do this, the oo'sare the same
as with end laps, butthe dado has to
match the width of the laps (or you
hhave to make more than one pass,
seenext page), And the procedureis
alitie diferent too
For one thing laying out and cut
ting the laps accurately on each inter
secting ploce would bea hassle. But
fortunately, there’s an easier way.
Instead of working with individual
workpieces Ieutthe halflansin extra:
wide blancs (vide enough for tvo oF
three pieces), see Fig. 8 After the half
Japs are eatin the blanks, the pieces
‘ill be ripped to final width,
Note: It there's a frame that sur
rounds the grid, you can cut these
pieces to finished width and cut the
‘nd laps on them firs, se the photo
above and page 13.
When the blanks are planed and
sanded to final thickness, the next
Sep isto lay cutthe alflaps. Because
Tusea stp block when cutting the
Pais ee Rd
Occasionally, wel get a fetter warning ts
about the danger of using the nip fence as
stop when pushing a piece with the miter
satuge. The danger is tha the cutoff piece
«an kick back at you. And we agree. You
shoul never eut completely through apiece
using both the rip fence and miter gauge.
‘The key word “completely.” And when
cutting half laps, you're not eutting com-
pletely through the workpiece, so there's
1 cuto pieceto kick back at you,
laps, I only lay
them out on one
of the long
blanks. And I
like to draw the
layout lines on
theface opponite
the laps. Then T
draw reference
lines for the
notch on the auiiary fence see Fig.
7. This way, to set the stop block, 1
simply align the jayout ines between
the reference nes on the fence.
Another good layout tip sto mark
an“X"to indicate where the half aps
are to be cut, refer to Fig, 8. Other-
wise, you could accidentally cut one
ofthe laps inthe wrong place
With the halilap lid out, the next
step isto cut them. To do this, Luse
the rip fence as a stop. You ean set
thefence foreach lap, orifthe layout
is symmetrical, you. can make two
passes with each setting, ippingthe
Piece encHorend., (his will cut the
number of setups in all)
Note:fthe haflaps are wider than
the dao blade, youl ned to make
‘more than one pass, see next page.
‘After the laps are cut, the blanks
can be ripped into individual pices,
see Fig. 9. Butbefore doing this, it's
Woodsmith
‘a good idea to mark onc end ofeach
blank. This way when it’s time to
asgemble the grid you can make sure
the pieces are oriented the same,
‘When ripping the blanks, the key
isto size the individual pieces so they
fit smug in the half aps, see Fig. Sa
‘You can use atest piece to\do this or
rip your frst workpiece a hair wide
and sneak up on its final width,
‘When allthe pieces have been cut
to size, the last thing to do is assem-
ble the grid. Todo this, typically dry
assemble the gridto testtherit ofthe
pieces. Shop Tip: To check that the
assembly is square, use a framing.
square. Then glue the grid togete
ef, [remove one piece at ¢ time and
add a drop o glue to each lap.
Air the pieves are gluedin place,
[keep the assembly fat by setting a
piece a plywood and someweight on
top, refer to photo on page 8.
Hob Stars
oigecorentone
No.8 Wide Half Laps
Sometimes, a project will require a
half lap tha’s wider than your dado
blade set. (This was the case with the
serving tray grid, see page 6) This
‘means you have to cut the laps in bo
‘or more passes.
Here you have a couple options. I
there aren't many half laps to cut, I
simply set the fence (Stop) far each
shoulder ofeach lap. But fthereare
alot oft lapsto cut, then Ican save
time by making a spacer and using @
twestep process
To determine the thickness ofthe
spacer, start with the overall width of
the half lp (1 on the serving tray
rid). Then subtract the width ofthe
dado blade (4°) from this overall
with (o find the thickness that your
spacer should be (4.
‘The nice thing is that you don't
need to worry that the final half lap
ends up exactly 1" wide. Its a hair
wider ornarrow, that’s okay— youl
rip the pieces to fit in the laps after
they're cut refer to Figs. 9 and oa
With the spacerin hand, itstimeto
cutthe halflaps. AsT mentioned ear-
lic, this isa two-step process. The
first stp isto set upthe stop block to
cut the shoulder forthe! from the
block, see Figs: 1 and 10a. (ase 2
Jong auxiliary feneeand a stop block
PL Sg
Using the table sawisa
dick and easy way to
cuthalflaps, butts not
aways my ist choice,
Whent'mworking with
thin stock (ess than
¥9) Vike to use a
straight bitin my router
table, see photo.
‘There are two rea.
sons for this, First, it
makes a cleaner cut
than a dado blade. The bottom of
the lap §s perfectly smooth when
ccutwith a sraight bit
‘The second thing llikcis hat half
Japs end up more consistent when
Trout them. The preblem with a
table saw is that the rotation of the
No. 115
met
Sarees
Sarat
instead of the rip fence. This way,
when the spacer is added, i “ride”
along with the fence, see Fig. 11)
‘After malking the first pass with the
blank butted against the stop block,
slip the spacer between the block
and the blank, see Figs. 11 and 1a.
Thistime, the blade willeut the shou-
blade tends to push the pieceup off
the table. So you lave to maintain
consistent downward pressure all
the way through the cut. And thin
picces will flex more than thicker
‘pisces, which compoundsthe prob-
Jem. A router solves this because
For fis pas
of wise op,
set top block
waurrarsnouicer
size space; to aqua!
wists St hoi op minus
‘nldth of dace blade
Spacer
der that’s closest tothe stop block,
‘This spacer technique can even be
used for laps that require more than
two passes: Simply cut both shoul
dors (using the spacer for the second
pass) and then remove the spacer and
Clean out the waste between the two
shoulders in multiple passes.
the bit rotates ina dif
fetent direction,
However, watch out
forone thing when rout.
ing halt laps. Because
most of the chips end
up on the table, you
need tomake sure they
dont end up under the
‘workpiece and affect
the depth ofthe cut.
Assembling thin lap
Joints can also reqnire a different
approach, Ifthere'saframeto glue
up, asin thefamp on page 16, then
‘centering the clamps ou the stock
can be a bit ofa balancing act. But
ty solution was to come up with a
clamping ji, see page 20. iv avO 3
OOOH
LANTERN-BASE LAMP
There’s no genie inside this lamp; instead it houses a small
bulb that casts a soft, diffuse light. And a wood grid in Hon
of the panels creates a unique design.
O. cof my favorite childhood memories sof my father
igging out an old oil lantern whenever a storm
knocked out our electrical power: The whole family would
sit huddled around the kitchen table within the warm,
glow ofthe lantern, talking and telling stories. Akhough
never sid anything, Iwas alwaysa litle bit disappointed
‘when the power was eventually restored,
This lamp reminds me a ot ofthat old lantern. Asarall
light bulb illuminates the base of the lamp. But instead,
‘of bright, intense light, paper covered panels inthe sides
‘of the lamp diffuse the light, casting a soft glow.
RUEPEPRR. To create this effect, the panels are made aut
‘of rice paper (available at mostart stores, or see sources:
‘on page 35)..But because rice paper is fragile, [was con-
‘cerned that it might get damaged unless it was sapport-
‘edby a backing. Soto strengthen the paper we mounted
it to some clear Plexigias,
‘Butthat’s not the only interesting thing about this amp.
‘Atthetopofezch frame isa wood “grid” made up ofsmall
rieces joined together with half laps. So when the panel
is backlit by the light bub, itcreates a windowpane effec.
Ws a simple design that creates a unique lamp.
AALFLAFS. The trickiest part about making the lamp is
figuring out a safe way to cut the halflaps on all those tiny
pieces. The solution we came up with is to make the halt
lapsin “gang” cuts, Thisjust means that we eut the ints
‘on several pieces at one time. (For more on cutting half
lap joints, see the technique article on page 12)
‘A. This lamp features two bulbs — one in the base and
‘one above. A suitch wich thee settings allows you 10
tr on the base only, the top only, or both a once.
No.5 re
ante
seepage 2”
froma oe
‘apo:
MATERIALS
‘A Upper Frame Rall 4) Yax¥%e- 5%
B Lower Frame Rail (4) Yax¥e - 5Y
Frame Stiles (2) Yar 12
D Vertical Dividers (12) Yax¥- 4%
E Horizontal Dviders (12) Ya x™A -5¥a
F Top/eim.Frame(®) — Yax a- 72
G Topi. Panels(2) Yah. - 4x 4%
sul ES
+ @ %9"-da. flat cherry Plugs
+) 44x34" Fr Woodscrews
+ (@) Rice Paper Sheets 5* x 12° (Rough)
+ @)%6" Peesiglas Panels 434" x 1134"
+ (1) Hickey
+ (1) 1%4" long Nipple @6" 0.0.)
+ (1) 36"-Jong Nipple 4" 00.)
+ (1) Colar
+ (1)2 Chreuit 3 Wire Brass-Plated Switch
+ (1) 2" Candelabra Base
° + (1) Plastic Hold-cown wiNal
+ (1) Bt. 18/2 Cord witlug
+ (1) Brass-plated Harp w/Finial
+ (1) lamp Shade
s-
OVERALL
Besa
rot give
PANE
Plexiglas — (Re plynnec)
ue oversize
Sheet of rice
(paper
Plotgies panel,
then tinecges
ainda of
oe onesie
ofheced ibe
J \
‘glued eo ice
‘eames nt
()) Details
er TBH x72" Wx 7%e"D-
NOTE: Alo need to 5" x5! pieces of thick cherry pywood
No. 115
Woodlemith
wn FRAME STLES (2 blanks)
are
Sides
‘When [frst saw the design
for this lamp, it reminded
ime an ewfll lot of the box
Kites [ used to make as a
id, And actually, the con-
structions similar: Its just
four frames glued upintoa
box. The only difierence is
the erdwork ofhelfleptrim
pieces at the top of each
fame, see drawing at right,
ALANKS, The frame that
makes up each
includes two rails and two
stiles, joined with half laps.
‘Then the gritwork inside each
frameis made up of three horizontal
clividers and three vertical dividers
again joined with half laps. At first
‘elance, you might think this involves
cutting half laps on a lot of small
pieces, But the process is really a
‘hole lot easier (and faster) if you
start by cutting the hal laps on wider
ge blanks, and then rip the individual
pieces to width.
f _ Todothisstarted by mkingsep-
arate blanks for the frame rails (A,
B), frame stiles (C), and vertical
ancl horizontal dividers (D, B) out
of V/"thick stock. Shop Note: Some
of the pieces require two blanks, see
drawing in margin at lef.
‘When cutting the blanks tolengih,
iffsimportant to make sure the ends
are square with the sides. Otherwise,
youll have a difficult time keeping
the half laps lined up.
Because the frame pieces are only
44-dhick, I decided to cut the halflaps
con a router table with a straight bit
(Gee the technique article on page
12). The router leaves a cleaner, more
consistent cut than a table saw, But the
NOTE: Cut a halt iopson
tnide banks st hen
Incivehil pcos to ve
‘See craig Hani
of
Important things to take the time to
ake several testeutsto check both
the depth and width ofthe half laps
‘CUTTING THE HALE LAPS. The first step
in cutting the joints is to make the
4. endl half apson both ends of
the blanks, see Fizs. land fa. (Note:
‘The Dlanks for the vertical dividers
receive a laf lp on only one end)
‘This is done by malking two passes,
lemping a stop block to the miter
gauge fence to establish the shoul
ee ofthe end half aps, see Fig. Ta
18
No. 115 Once the half laps are ext on the
‘ends, you can start cutting the Y=
>) Yitehallas tat join heard pisces
together, soe Fig. 1b. Theseare cutin
) ‘the same manner, using a stop block
‘lampesto the miter gauge The only
! things thatyou'l have to reposition
the stop block to create the spacing
between the half eps.
RIPPING TH FEES T0 WOTH, Aer all
the half laps are eu, the individual
pieces can be ripped to width from
the blanks, see Fig, 2. The important
thing here isto make sure the fin-
‘shed with ofthe nieces matches the
‘ith ofthe half laps, otherwise the
pieces won't fittogether. (made my
dividers wide andthe frame pieces
+f wide, see Figs. 2aand 2b.)
‘There'sone more step tocompkete
before the grit can beassembled. To
add litle interest to the grid, Ivar-
ied the ength ofthe vertical dividers.
‘The center vertical divider of each
aid isa Mle tonger than the two
iverson either side, sce drawing
) on opposite page. To create this dif
ference, [trimmed %! off the end of
) D> cightotthe vertical dividers
‘AsSHAL When it came to ghuing,
the sides up, [used a simple ig 10
help keen the frames square and fat,
sec Fig. 3. (Por more on this jig, see
page 30.) And rather than trying to
slic upallthe pieces atonce,Iglued
the frame pieces first and then glued
the grid pieces into the frames, see tilking the blade 45° andrippingeach crushing the “box.” Soinstead, Lused
Fig 4, Shop Note: avoid having to sidealongtheedges,seeKigs Sand5a, ordinary masking tape, laying the
clean up alot of gue squeeze out, I GING UP IE 0X. The sides ofthe framescown inarew and placing four
‘used a single drop of glue on each lamp are assembled before making stinsof tape lngthwise across them
halflap when gluing inthe dividers. the top and bottom panels, But overhanging one side , see Fig 6.
Before the sidescan be glued up because the sides are so delicate, I Thenafterapplying ght tothe edges
Into a*hox,” the edges nced tobe was aid thetusing clamps tohold ofthe frames, simply taped the box
beveled Todothis,lusedatablesaw, the pieces together might end up _ together, see photo below.
BRST Lay sides
erties Oe
Strips of ondary
masking ie hold
the delicate sides
of the lamp
together. Just
remember
check and make
sure the boxis
square.
‘Secono: ace
“srs of masting tone aros:
esoe ening tur orc oro uch
No. 115 Woodsmith 9 Top & Bottom
‘With the sides othe lamp ged up,
the base is amos. compete, Ait
needs isa top and abot, which
hhappen tobe identical
Both the top and bottom consist
‘of a square plywood panel sur-
rounded by a mitered hardwood
frame. But since the frames are
sized to overhang the skles of the
‘amp, but them first and then cut
the pane’s to fit
‘ants. Coch frame is made up
offour mitered frame pieces (F),
see drawing tright Toma these
ries, [started by ippingtve long
blanks to width (194') out of!
thick stock, (one forthe top fame
andone fo the bowom),
Normally, I make frames by
molding the profile on the blank
first and thea mitering the indvid-
tual pices to length. But in this se
vent about it itl different
began by routing. chamfer on
the edge of each uncut blank, see
detail ‘c. But didn’ cut the
lange bevel om the out
se ofthe frame until
ofter the individual |S
pieces were mitered io
Tength and the frames 7
were assembled, see Figs. Zand. ue
TismmteUalrcnrn al miata 2
clamp the frames pieces during en oe
assembly and glue up.
PANELS. Once the frameswere cont- and 8s. The height (depth) ofthisrab- the top panel, drilled a%-dia hole
pleted, I made the plywood panels bet is 14". Butthe width will depend right in the center of the panel forthe
that fit inside. Fach panel (G)starts upon the opening ofyourframes. (My lamp hardware. But on the bottom
outas a square piece of thick ply- rabbet was 1" wide.) |found it east panel, a4" hole is drilled in the
wood, cut to fitinside the opening of est to cuttherabhetsslightlynarrow corner for the electrical cord, see
the body ofthe kanp. (Mine were" and then sneakcup on the final width. detail‘! above. Then the panels can
square) Nextarabbetisrouted onal DRILWOUS. Before gluing the pan be glued into the frames.
four ediges of the pane! to fit inside els into the frames, holes are drilled The top and bottom are attached
the opening of the frame, sce Figs.8 forthe lamp wiring and hardware. Onto the sides of the lamp with screws,
20 Woodsmith No. 118 So the next step isto drill counter:
bored holes forthe mounting screws.
see details’ and'c on opposite paz.
‘The top doesn't get screwed in
place unilafter the lamp is wired. But
the bottom is attached at this peint.
‘Then [glued //'di, tapered, flathead
phugsto the bottom to serve as “eet”
see detail‘ at ight
MSA. Ifs easier to finish the base
ofthe lamp before the hardware and
wiringare added. And because ofall
the tiny spaces created by the grid-
work, [used a spray laequer (Deft
PANES. While the finish was drying,
I started working on the rice paper
panels [could have simply glued the
rice paper behind each grid, but Lwas
‘worried that it might get torn or dam-
aged. So to provide some backing, 1
mounted the rice paper to Plexiglas
parelsusing a spray adhesive. These
panels are cutto ft inside the lamp.
(Once the rice paper is attached, the
panelsare plzced inside the lamp and
‘gived in place with a hot glue gun
itm. Final, I threaded the cord
through the hole inthe botom and
wired the lamp, see box below. Then
I secured the top with serews and
aiddeda lamp shade, OY
Wiring dhe lamp isnt really dificult,
but youre at all unsure about how
to proceed, it's probably best to hire
an cleetrician or take the lamp to @
Jamp store to have it wired.
Although the lamp has two socks
fs the one that contains the switch
isadhwire socket, which can operate
each bulb separately or both at the
same time. This type of socket has
tho “hot” leads and one neutral lead.
‘Thisallows the sccond socket to be
*pigailed” to the firs.
Ashoctlength of 182 wire is used
te connect the neutral leads and the
hot leads of the two sackets (make
sureto keep these separate —hot to
hhot and neutral to neutral, Then the
two wires from the power cord are
attached to the upper socket, one to
thencutrlIeedand oneto the remain.
ing hot lead.
No. 115 ‘Woodignith
a sANUO ty
PROJECT
HALL TREE
We designed a strong, stable tree
without a massive “trunk.”
I Theres zaulit tisha tre: poss hooks, feet and
cress pieces, But a simple asi , working out the
final daign took quite « few revisions.
P0St. For one thing abl tre requires a center pos.
‘Asli post would have been hard to find — and prety
heary Plus, itwould ve had a tendency to warp. Wecon-
sidered laminating the pos trom two or tee pieces of
stock, Butte there would have been visbe in nes
running helen ofthe post.
Soinstead ofa singe, oid post we decide on four nar
rower posts (each I thie) that are connected by the
hook, et, ad some special cross brases, This “ineola
oa” approach lightened the weight of te tree and also
madeitquite bit moreinteresting tolokat land build)
HOOKS & FE. With the post designed, next we worked
nthe hooks en fet. Of couse, these noes have tolcok
right, But changing ther size (and shape) also afected
the sabity and ubly ofthe tree. So me played with the
shape of the pieces and their lengths, trying to gct a bal
ea ak aie dade Rees
ane unbrells This required bullding several prototypes.
Buttba! wasn’ hig deal yu don't have to eu any tenons
onthe inside edges. Instead the pieces are simply sand
wicked beameen the posts
MATERIALS:
A Posts (2) 11-65%
B Cross Peces (4) 1x13
© Top Hooks (4) 1x4-10
D Bottom Hooks (4) 14-8
E Feet (4) 15-13%,
CUTTING
Ye 5* 60" Rad Oak 26 bd Ft)
e : . e
1 4" 34" Red Oak 29.64.)
© © & ¢ > 2 2 2
18" 84" Rec Oak (26.84. Ft)
22 Woodsrnith No.115 Construction Details
‘OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 6934"H x 223%"W x 22%4’D
No.115 Woodsmith % POST DETAIL
|
osu
i eat snouloer
Srescnath
Gut shoulder fine then
Femove waste in trgen
the wrunk." This trunkcismade up of
four long posts, see drawing in mar
gin, Each post hasa series of notches
Ccuton two adjacent faces to hold the
hooks, cross pieces, and feet.
Posts
‘To make the posts, I started with a
Stawide blank of 5/4 stock pianed 1"
thick. Keep in mind when you're
choosing and milling this blank that
the straighter these pieces are now,
thecasieritwill boto cut the notches
‘and assemble them later.
‘GIT TOUBIGTH. With the blankrresaly,
cut it to final length (6544") and
ripped itinto four "wide posts (A),
‘see drawing in margin, This way, all
the pieces will end up exactly the
same length, which is important when
itcomes time to cutthe notches.
‘GU NOTCHES. With the posts cut to
Size, I began work on the notches.
‘These are cut on the inside faces of
each post, see Fig. 1. And since they
trap the hooks and feet, i's important
that they lineup across the four posts
SANDING BLOCK. (the notchieson the
_osts aren't smooth, youl notice
itwhen the hooks and feet are
_ghied between them later. So ere.
ated a simple sanding block, see:
‘drawing.‘The “handle” ofthe block
‘pans across the notches so their
depth stays consistent and their
‘edges aren't rounded over,
Todo this, frst Ils cut the notch-
‘es on a single post, sce draving in
margin. (Note that the top and bot-
om notches are the same distance
‘romtheends ofthe post, buttheyre
not the same length)
‘With the notches laid out on one
post, I set the dado blade to make a
pia ey Cl
Weodsmith
44-dcep cut. And Ladded along aux:
flary fence tothe miter gauge to sup-
port the piece, see Fig. 1
‘The rick to making sure that the
notches are identical is to use a stop.
block, see Figs. | and Ja. After set
tingitto cut the rst shoulder, Imade
two passes on each piece, rolling the
No. 115 nore:
Moke blanks
Nore:
Cross pieces
eure rergtn
iter halt ors
A To keep the posts from bouingat be
center, theyre held together with simple
cross pace assemblies,
NOTE pare enoved
Dost between passes so the notches
‘ended up on adjacent faces.
‘When the first shoulder had been.
cutonall the posts, Imoved the stop
block to cut the second shoulder of
the notch. After making this cut, any
waste hetween the two shoulders ean
be removed with over‘apping asses
‘Then Lworked on the next notch, fo
lowing the sare procedure.
‘Note: Because of the length of the
posts, youllnced to flip them eround
© _haativay through this process,
When the notches were cut, I
noticed they had some shallow kerf
marks left by my dado blade. Iwas
concerned that these marks would
be visiblefter assembly. Soto remove
them, I made a simple sanding
see the bexcon page 24
COUMEER EDs. With the sw marks
removed, all tha’ lefts to chamfer
theends, see Fig 2. These pieces are
‘so Jong that | was concerned about
ischamier, but found that
holding them favon the table wasn't
dificult, especially when using the
miter gauge and an auxiliary fence
to support the piece. However, Idid OVERSIZE BLANKS. The cross pieces cle beginning on page 12)
decideto addazero-clearancetence. (B).ftinthe notches inthe center of COTTO SIZE. Now the blancs can be
pieces
together
Gross piece assembly
(For more on this, see page 30.) the post. (Mine were 1" x 1") Their eutinto four cross pieves, see Fig. 4
final length willbe 3°, However, since (Thistime. you can'tuse the rip fence
‘CROSS PIECES thisis a bitshortto workwith on the asa stop because the piece will kick
When the postsare complete, Thegan _tablesaw safely, ISaried with wo7"- back, see the box on page 14.) Thea
workingon some crosspieces. Each long blanks, see drawing above. _all that’ left is to chamfer the ends,
cross piece assembly consisisof two With the two blanks inhand, cut sce Fig §. Here agein, [used the 2ero-
individual piecesand lookslike short _aelflepnearboth endsofcach so the clearance insert, But this time, Isup-
A> Lincoln Logpieces stacked together. cross pieces would overlap, see Fig. ported the pieces with a push block.
[ Their purpeseista connect the pests 3.Tosupport these blanks, attached Nowrthe cross piecescan beghued
inthe middle of the tree so the snac- an auxiliaryfence tothe mitergauge together and set aside until after the
ing sts even from top to bottom, andused theripfenceasastop, (For hooks and feetare made and the tree
see photo above. more oncuting halflaps, seetheart —sready to be assembled, see Fig. 6.
No 5 Woodsmith 2 ‘With the posts and cross pieces com
plete, the lst pieces to makeare the
hooks and feet. With the two differ
‘ent sets of hooks and the setof feet
there are twelve different pieces to
mide, Fortunately, the procedure is.
identical. The only difference is the
shape of the pieces.
HOOKS & FEET
[started by cutting the blanks forthe
‘top (C)and bottom hooks (D) from
‘Wthick stock. (Top hook blanks are
4" x 10" bottom blanks are 4" x8")
‘aren, With the blankscutto size,
created one pattern for the top hook
‘and another forthe boitom and then
‘mounted them to to of the blanks,
(The patterns for each piece can be
found on page 23. Fulksize patterns
are also available, see page 35)
NsMEEDGE. The nex stepis to shane
the inside edge of each blank (the
‘ne that fits into the notches on the
posts). This is a two-step process,
First, [angled the miter gauge and
‘et the inside edge ofeach piece, see
Fig. 7 Note: Both hook blanks are
cout with the miter gauze angled 40°
With the inside ede cu, next cut
the top and bottom edges so the
‘hooks fitin the notchesin the post.
cut the bottom edge first with the
blank standing on the inside edge.
cut the blank with the pattern frst
‘and then traced this cut on the other
blanks and cut them)
Next, [cutthetop edge ofthehook,
see Figs 8 and 8, Here, instead of fF
owing the patiera, you'll want to
sneak up on
‘ho inal height
(width) of the
Piece so ifits snugin the notchesin
the posts, see photo at left. When it
does, you can clamp a stop block to
the auxiliary feace so all the other
‘blanks will be identical. Note: You'll
need to reset the stop block for the
other set of hook blanks.
(UT TO SHAPE, Now the rest of the
patiern canbe cut out. used theband
‘saw for thisand sandedup tothe ine.
When this piece was complete, I
‘raced it on the other Blanks so they
‘epuld be cutand canded to match.
ET, With the hooks cut out, you ‘ean work on the feet CB). The pro-
cedure here isthe same, The only dif
ferences are that the blank is larger
x 1344, sce pattern on page 23)
‘nd to cut the inside edge, the miter
gauge is rotated 25°, refer to Fig. 7.
CGAMFER INSIDE EDGE. When the feet
axe cut out and sanded, there's sill
‘one more step for both the hooksand_
feet. Irouted achamfer on the inside
edges ofeach piece, see Figs. 9 and
9a. This /" chamfer allows all four
Ficeesto come together the center,
see the Secon View detail on page 23
No. 15
ASSEMBLY
Now that the hookssand feetare come
plete, the hall tree can be assembled.
Here it begins to look lke a large
“Lincoln Log” project. But fortunately,
there's not much to the assembiy,
you take iin steps.
GLUE UP HAWES."The first thing I did
‘was gue up one set of hooks (opand
‘otto anda footbetween two poss,
sce Fig, 10. I used the cross piece
assemblies to help keep the posts
aligned. But the important thing is
that the inside edges of al the posts,
hooks ane feet are fash, see Fig 10a
‘When one halfis glued together,
ddd the same with the other bal Then
connected the two halves by gluing
the cross piece assembles between
them, sec the drawing below.
‘di emannng
hook and foot
AXthis point the remaining parsof
‘nooks and feet can be wed into the
notches, see drawing below. ladded
‘one piece at atime, inserting tito the
notch and clampingittight Shop Tip
To prevent glue equoezo-out, apply
lve only to the notches on the post.
[Afterall the hooks and fet were
In pace, [checked to sei there was
shoulder atthe bottem ofthe hooks,
there was, I sanded the hooks so
they made a smooth transition into
the posts. Then I softened all the
“hard” edges on the hooks and feet.
ANISH, The les thing todo is apy
thefnish, Because ofthetigntspaces
‘between the posts a spray gun would
work best. Butif you don' have a
spray gun, you can do what did wipe
‘oathree aro coats ofan ol finish.
mmo: Lane)
Sand hock od
‘feoro often edgos A A wobble blate
(op) cuts a dado
witha concave
bomom, while «
sack dado set
(bottom) leaves a
dado with a dlean-
er, flat hottom,
Ey
Too &
TECHNIQUES
to the shop after buying my first
dado bade. quickly set up the bade
‘on my table saw. Then grabbing 2
piece af woe from the scrap pil, Let
adadoand anxioasiy tured ihe piece
over to inspect the results, [couldn't
have been more disappointed. The
edges were ragged and splintered,
and the bottom ofthe dado was
thing but flat That’s when I realized
there's more to « dado blade the
moots the eye
Basialy speaking alldadoblades
{all into one of two categories —
aujustable or “wobble” dadoes and
stack dado sets, Wobble dado blades
rely on an adjustable hub which cre-
ates runout (wobble) in the blade.
Thisin tum causes theblede tout
wider kerf. By varying the amount of
runout, you can vary the dado with
On the other hand, a stack dado
setuses two blades and aset of “chip-
pers" (hese are reallyjust moliied
Blades, ually with only to oF fur
teeth). By sandwiching tacking) the
clippers between the outer bles,
you can cut dadces of varying widths
CHOOSING A BLADE
you donitalready have a datlo blade,
there are a couple of things you
‘should know before rushing out to
HELPFUL DADO BLADE TIPS
© Clean. Fer best performance,
Keep your ado ede finding
the chippers) deen. Bitch end
wood fiberscan reduce the cut-
ting efficiency of the blade
# Sharp. Have your dado blade
sharponec bya reputabiesharp-
ning service, Andee sure to
have al cippers ofa stack dado
setsharpened atthe same tine
the outer blades are sherpered
buy one; Like many thingsin life, you
get what you pay for when it comes
to dado blades. Although you can pick.
tioa wobble dado blade for betsoen
$25 0 $70, a recommend spending
the extra money to bay «carbide.
tinned stack dado set (S100 103,
and here's why.
‘Since a wobble dado uses a single
blade tht fans back and forth, the
bottom of the dado usually ends up
* Set-up. To help in setting up a
dedo sei, | meke a reference
stick. IVS juste narrow board
with several dadoes of varying
width aut across it. Nextto each
dado, | waite tre number and.
thickness of the chipper (or
shims) | used to cut the dade.
© Chippers. if you routinely cut
dacoes using only one or tivo.
chigpers, make sure not (0 use
Woocismith
Slightly concave, see drawing in mar
‘ginal Feit. On the other hand, a stack
dado setuses several blades, so itcan
ccutaflat bottom dado with much less
splintering. This may seem like a trv.
ial point at first, but the cifference in
quality of cut between a wobbledado
and a stack daulo is amazing.
‘SHE Another point to consider when
choosing a blade is size. With sow
blades, | usually end to think bigger
‘the same ones each time, This
wil help avoid uneven wear of
ie chippes.
‘© Tear out. fe prevent tearoutat
the end ofa dado cut, try back
ing up the cut nith a piece of
scrap stock. You can also start
with an extra wide workpiece,
then rip the piece dovn to fn-
ished width after cutting the
adoes to remove any teerout.
No.115 isbetter, Butthisisn'tnecessarly true width of the dado,
wilds Badea Sse Ieee” rob he bid ingabet
© ehescoperten snc nd tng pad ace eng
thle dilecdisonrtl Agiod fe wile dado Wahab
6a. set will handle just about any datlo, you can simply rotate the hub
dadoyyoulleverneed tomake,and it to getthe width you need (atleast in
can be purchased for justover $100. theory). But there's a little more
Davo TifoxT nse In adciton to a involved when it comes to adjusting
blade, youll also need a dadlo throat a stack dado set to aprecise width. A. Mageti: shims (top row) are easy
insert for your table saw. The wider sHMS.Adjustingthe width ofastack co use hecause they stich to the side
opening ofthis insert allows for the dado set isa two-step process. To ofthe blade, bur brass or plastic
increased width ofthe dado blade. begin with, you add or remove the shims will also do the trick.
The problem with most store: chipperbledes asneeded But usual
ought cada insertsisthattheopen- lythisoniy gets you into thebal park. _ABWUSTING IE EIA. Adjusting the
ing istoowide. Iff'm cuttingnarrow To fine‘tine the dado width, youl width ofthe dado is only baif the bat
dadoes, I dow’t tke having all that need to use shims. Placing one or te, When cuttingadaco ora groove,
‘open space eround the blade.A good more shims between the chippers you're alsoconcerned with the depth
solution to this problem is tomake a and the outer blades inereases the ofthe eut. You might think adjusting
couple ofdado throatinserts with dit overall wicth ofthe dado. the depth ofcutis simply a matter of
ferent size openings. This way, you Shims are usually made of sheet _ tweekingthe blade height adjustment
‘ean choose the insert fo mateh the _brassor plastic, and their thickness is_ wheel on your table saw
width ofthedadoes you're cutting. marked sothat you knowhowmany Bt the problem Ive found (espe
‘of each thickness to add. (You can cally with most contractortypesaws)
USING A DADO BLADE also make your own shims out of is the bizde raising mechanism isat
Installing a dao bladeonatable saw paper or posterboard.) allthat precise. There's typically quite
is rally justlixe installing any other Shimminga dado set takes atte a bt of play in the gears, especially
blade. But there are two points to patience. The key is to make atest when going back and forth between
Metin itl parceaten ct ater och austmert to check sag and lowering the bide. And
fion when installing the two outer the width of the dado, This isa lot thiscan makeitdifficalto “fine tune”
blades ofa stack dado set. Although more accurate than trying to mea- the height ofthe biade.
theseblades lookalike, there isacti- sure the widthof the dado biadeisel. To get around this, [lke fo start
allyarighthand bladeand alef-hand One other thing about shims. Ive _ with the blade set low, Thea I steak
‘lade, sobecarefulnotto switch them found that when using them, they _up on the final height, raising the
around (they're usually marsed to ell sometimes have a tendency to fall blade in small inerements and mak
yyouwhich side oftheblade faces out). down into the threads of the saw ing atest cut after each adjustment,
Wheninstling the chipperblades, arbor.‘Then when I goto tighten the Shop Note: If you overshoot the
youll want to make sure the carbid>arbornt, theshims getjammed, For _ height when following thisprocecure,
teeth of one chipper con't touch the thssreason,Ilike touse the new mag- it’s a good idea to lower the blade
teeth of the blade next to it, netic shims (e photo above). They — back down and start over again,
Otherwise, the plates ofthe blades stick lo the sides ofthe dado blades Once both the width and height
‘wor't ft together tightly, and youl and chippers, so you dont have to ereadjusted, you'rereadytostarteut
have a difficult time adjusting the worry about them getting caught. ting dadoes. IY
NEW STYLE DADO BLADE
The biggest problem with most increases (or decreases) the width.
stack dado sets is hassling with ofthe dado by 004, making italot
shims to “fine tune” the width of easier to adjust the blade.
the dado. Butrecently, Freudhes You might want to check your
come out with a new stack dado table saw before buying one of
set that does away with shims. these blades, however: [found that
2 “This dado set is fitted with an because of the thickness of the
co 3 adjustable hub on one of the outer hub and the length of my saw.
» blades, The width of the dado is arbor, I couldn't fully thread the
adjusted by simply turning the arbor nut when using the blade
hub. Each “click” of the hub with all ofits chippers.
No, 115 ‘Woodlsmith UUs GON
OES):
SHOP NOTES
Clamping Jig for Lamp
‘Whenitcame to gluing up
the frames that inake up
the sides of the lamp (see
page 16), I had two con:
corns, First, I wanted to
‘make sure the frameswere
_giued up square. And sec-
‘ond, Iwanted fo be able to
apply clamps tothe face of
the halflap joints aswellas
the edges of the frame,
sma Pci. The problem
was with the size of the
frame pieces. Sincethey're
‘60 small and thin, is iff
cult to position all those
Camps without damaging
the workpiece. So to make
thingsalltle easier, made
ackampingjig.
Basically, the jig isjust 2
piece of /"-thick plywood,
ccatsiightly small than the
frames. A couple of cleats
are tacked to one side and
come ent! (0 create a lip to
hold the frame square.
‘Theato help mise the ig
up off the workbench co
the half lap joints can be
clamped, a riser block is
screwed to the plywood
base. This allows the jig to
bbeclampedina hench vse
‘ssseuttyTo gue up the
frames ofthe lamp, I dry
assembled all the pieces
first. Then | glued the four
‘comer joints of the frame.
Once these had dried, I
Zero-Clearance Fence for Routing Chamfers
(Chamifering the end of a
workpiece isnt much of a
problem with a router table
and a chamfer bit.
But the idea of routing
cchamferson theendsof the
pices ofthe hglltrecmade
me a litle nervous.
Because the ends are
only 1" square, I was wor
ried that they might get
caught in the opening of my
router table fence. So to
play it safe, Imade a zero-
clearance fence to fit
around the chamfer bit.
I started by lowering the
chamfer bit so only the
bearing was sicking above
the surface of the table.
‘Then I positioned my
router fable fence soit was
about an "in front of the
router bit bearing.
Next, clamped! piece
‘of "thick hardboard to
the fence, see Fig. 1. The
Dearing is actually behind
the hardboard fence)
‘To create tho zero clear
ance opening, all you have
to dois slowiyrit the bit
‘hile therouterisrunning,
see Fig. 1a. Shop Note:
Raise the bit just high
enought cut thechamfer
Now all you have to do
isroutthe ends ofthe work
iecos. Since the chamfers
are being cut onend grain,
i's a good idea to use a
hacker board to help pre-
eat chipout
No. 115 Making Dowels
While rounding up the
materials for the serving
tray (see page 6), I looked
high and low for a 1™dia.
snahogaay dowel. When I
couldn't find one locally, I
decided to make my own.
‘Theidea behind making
a dowel is pretty simple.
You start with a lone,
straight piece of square
stock and simply rout a
roundover on all four
edges. The only problemis
thatafter youve routed the
first three roundovers,
there isn't anything forthe
bearing of the router bit 1o
ride on while routing the
fourth and final roundover.
‘Thesecretisto leavethe
ends of the dowel blank
square, and use the fence
on the router table as a
bearing, see Fig. 1 e
‘Shop Note: Because the of the
dowels [needed for the blank, start
serving tray were longer ing and stopping
than my router tble top, an inch orso shortat
had toclampalongersup- cachend, secFig. 2,
portbaseand fenceto my ‘Then justroundedover
router table theother three edgesinthe
To make the dowel, I samemanner Afterwards,
started with a l"square Ieutthedcwelto length and
blank 24"long.Usinga'#" lightly sanded ittoremove
roundover bit Irouted one any burn marks,
NOTE Leave
endssqusreon
workpiece
Cutting Tenons on Dowels
After Imade the dowel for
the serving tray Gee
above), I still had to cut
‘round tenons on the ends.
Since there were only two
tenons to cut, I didn’t want
to goto the rouble of mak
ing.ajie. So | simply used
ny table saw.
‘The trick Is to use the
saw blade to graduly“nib-
ble” away the waste of the
tenon. Todo this, started
by seling my rip fence 10
establish the length ofthe
tenon, sce Figs. 1 and ta.
Shop Note: Make sure to
‘measure from the outside
ofthe blade tothe fence
Next, [raised my blade
to Yat and mede a shoul-
der cut around the cit
cumierence of the dowel
Thisis simply a matter of
holding the dowel against over the blade, rotating it
the rip fence and rotating slightly between each pass,
it into the blade. An auxit see Figs 2 and 2a.
iary fence attached to the Once I removed the
titer gauge helps to sup- waste around the entire
port the workpiece while tenon, I raised the blade
its being rotated, another sie" (to a total
Next, [began “nibbling” height of ") and repeated
away the waste betweenthe _ the process, see Figs. and
shoulder andtheend ofthe a, This way, [ended up
tenon by simply sidingthe _ with alia, tenon oa the
workpiece back and forth end of the 1'-dia. dowel. thick
ordooord
ares
ees
oe
READER’S
Jic
SHOP STORAGE CONTEST
few issues back, we announced
1a. shop storage contest and
asked you to send in ideasand sol
tions to the storage problems youve
‘aced in your shop.
Werreceived a jot ofingenious and
unique ideas, Narrowing the field
down to the three shown here was
not an easy task (although we cer-
Short pieces
fin Be corted
Inside one of
Rurshelver
i SIDE view
17
tainly enjoyed looking over all the
centres). In the end, we based our
cision on a fevr factors,
First, we were interested in colt:
tions to common, everyday storage
problems that plague most wood-
workers, Second, the idea had to be
‘one that didn't require alot of special
cor bard-tofind materials, Finally, it
Cut-Off "Ladder"
Neatly everytime I build « project,
Tend up with some lef-over wood.
‘After a while, these seraps really
‘start piling up. But Reggie Brown,
of Crittenden, Kentucky has come
up with a great way of storing a
Tot of cutoffs in a small space. He
constructed a cut-off rack that
resembles a ledder, The rack con-
sexticrh
—Wocasrew
pall
odes
ad to be something that could be
tbuilt orimplemented withouta great
eal of effort or expense.
Congratulations to the winners, and
thanks toall ofyou who took the time
to participate, Editor's Note: In the
‘ase of tivo or more similar ideas,
‘we gave preference to the one with
the earliest postmark.
siets offive shelves for storing short
‘cutofis (under two feo), while longer
pieces can be stored upright against
the sides ofthe rack.
The framework of this cutoff
rack is built out of dimensional lunt-
ther @xds). The shelves and cross
nails are made of "thick stock while
‘hardboard (Masonite) is used for
the end panels on the sides of the
rack And tokeepthejoinery simple,
the entire rack is assembled with glue
and woodscrews, see Fig. 1.
‘Toul the rack, sart by cutting
the four legsto length (72") from 2x
stock, mitering the ends at Then
a piece of "thick hardboard is
screwed to each pair of legs, see
drawing at left. A 2x4 cross brace is
screwed in between the legs at the
‘bottom of each side.
A series of 9"thick cross rails
join the two sides, see Fig. 1. These
are simply glucd and screwed to the
‘outer faves ofthe legs, Then the Li
witle shelf slats can be screwed to
the cross rails.
‘To keep longer pieves in place
‘against the sides ofthe rack, aral is
added to the botiom of the base on
each side anda couple of eye screws
are inserted helfivay up the legs to
hold a “bungee” cord.
Finally, to make the rack mobile,
four swivel casters are added to the
bottom. These are attached to a
‘couple of°%"thick wood caster sup-
Doris that are screwed to the bo
tom of the rack.
No. 115 Wall Stud Storage
Like many woodworkers, Danny
Williams of Lawrenceville, Georgia
hhasa shop with unfinished (framed)
walls Butinstec of finishing the walls
and then hanging up cabinets for stor
age, Danny took another approach.
He but “shelves” between the open
framing of the wall studs and then
added doors to create storage cabi-
nets, see drawing atright.
To create a deeper cavity for the
storage cabinets, 2x2 furring strips
can be screwed to the faces of the
wall studs, see Fig-1.Then cleats can
be nailed or screwed to the sides of
the studs and furring strips to pro-
vice support for the shelves.
‘Thesheles are nothing more than
1p'shiekcdimensional lumber cut to
‘it in between the wall studs. After
they're fastened to the cleats, they
can be ketopen oc somesimple doors
can be added to help keep out dust
and debris, ee Fig. 2. Ghop Tip: You
might try contacting kitchen remod-
lersin your area to see ifthey have
any old cabinet doors.available,)
Portuble Storage Bins
Storage for nails, serews and other
‘small parts is another problem that
nearly every woodworker faces.
Although we rceived dazens ofideos
‘or storgeconhainersusingjus about
everything imagineable, Ireally liked
the design of these portable storage
bins sentin by Peter Coope of North
Stonington, Connecticut.
Not only do these bins hold a lot,
buttheyte great ior carryingto ajob-
site-You can easily carry two in one
hand by placing them back to back.
‘And a simple rack allows youto store
the bins underneath a benchiop so
the contents are within easy reach.
‘The size of the bins can be readily
adjusted to suityour neods
“The ‘wont, back and bottom of each
bin is made of i" hardboard, while
the sides are made of 4s"thick solid
wood (pine), see drawing at far right.
Rabbets along the edges of the sides.
hold the front and back panels. And
a groove near the bottom ofeach side
piece holds the bottom.
Before assembling the bin, a han-
dle is made by driling: a couple 1"-
No. 115
irs ein
Vsheped shetves 50
Contents are acessole
dia. holes ia the back panel
ofthe binand removing the
waste in between with a
sabresaw-Then the pieces,
ofthe bin are glued togeth-
rand fastened with bras.
‘Therarkisnothing more
than a couple of boards
nailed togetherina"V” for-
mation between two
uprights. The boarésactas
a “cralle” to hold the bins,
see Figs. Land la.
Woodsnith, COMMENTS &
QUESTIONS
‘TALKING SHOP
Cutting Cove Moldi
@ Tve just received
Woodsmith No. 168, aud 1
think you made a serious
‘mistake in your article on
cutting coves.
You show tho fence
placed behind the saw
blade. All the books I've
‘seen show the fence in
front of the blade. This
seers ikea safer metlod
than the one you show.
Warren Walters
Wairaut Crook, CA
‘We've received several let
terspointing out this“mis-
take” in our article on
‘cutting coves. Butthetruth
is we showed the fence
‘behind the blade because
‘we feel thisis the best posi
tion (and just as sae).
As we were preparing
the article on cuting coves,
we tested the setup with the
fenceinboth positions —in
front ofthe blade as wellas
hindi
At first glance, it might
seemlike putting the fence
between you and the blade
5
i
i
4
=i
Is safer since the fence will
preventhe blade from i
ing back the workpiece.
But the problem with
this setup is that you have
tohold the workpiece back
against the fence while at
the same time pushing it
forward over the blade.
Notonlyisthis awkward,
Dut I found that the work
pce has a tendency to pull
avvay from the fence a it
starts to drop off the back
‘edge of thetable saw atthe
end of the cut, see Fig. 1
(On the other hand, with
the fence behind the blade
youreonly pushinginafor-
ward direction, sce Fig. 2
This is more like making
an ordinary rip eut (which
i probably why it seems
‘more comfortable to me),
And since you're only
ralsing the blade "ip" for
‘cach: pas, there isn't real
ly any danger of kickback
— you simply areritremov-
ing enough material forthis
to be a concern
Even though I prefer
putting the fence behind
the blade, I wouldn't say
that there is any “right” or
“wrong” way. Both met
ods will work.
‘The question is which
fone you feel safest with.
‘And the only way to deter.
‘mine thisisto try outeach
position and then use the
one that feels most com-
fortableto you,
TWOFENCS, There is one
other option, and that is to
Lusetwo fences, one on each
side of the workpiece, 10
uid tas it’s fed into the
blade. This method takes,
alittle Tonger since you
have to set up two fences
instead oust one. You slo
have to make sure the
fencesare perfect parallel
tocach othertopreventttie
‘workpiece irom binding.
Butonceyou have both
fences in place, you don't
have to worry about hold
ing the workpiece against
the fence at ll
Woodsmith SOURCES
Woodsmite Project Supplies you'll need for the lamp.
offers hardware kits and This lamp kitincludes:
supplies for some of the (0) Plastic Holddown
projects shown in this w/Nail
issue. Similar supplies for (1) 2 Cireuit, 2 Terminal
these projects are akoavail: Brass Plate Switch
ableatyourlocalhardware (I) Hickey
store or home center. () 2"Candelabra Base
1) %s" Collar
LANTERN-BASELAMP (1) 194'-Jong Nipple
To bulld the lantermbase (1) '4ong Nipple
lamp featured on page 16, (1) 8Ft. 18/2 Cord wPlug
you'llneed quiteafew elec (8) #4x34"Fh
trical supplies that aren't Woodscrews
normally associated with (4) IF FlatCherry Plugs
‘woodworking. ) Rice Paper (19"x 24")
‘Youmight be ableto ind
the supplies for the lamp at
hardware store. Butifnot,
you should be able to find
what you need at a lamp
shop. They'll also be able
to answer any questions
you have about wiring the
lamp, since its three-way
feature is sightly unusual,
referto the box on page 21,
(Or you can even have
them wire it for you)
However, if dontt havea
lamp shop near you, then
Lamp Hardware Kit
7115-100 $1795
PAgKiolAs. When putting
together the kit above, we
decided not to include the
Plexiglas since it can be
found ata hardware store
ite readily. (You need a
Diece of clear ¥4"-thick
Plexiglas 12" x24".)
SHADE & HARP. We tried
three or four shades for our
lamp and quieldly found that
theshape andheight ofthe
shacle re an important con-
sideration. (If the shade
Woodsmith Project Sup- A if you're used to hinges, screws and knobs, the hand
plieshas puttogether akit ware om the lanp will take some gerting used 1o— with
with most ofthe hardware names ike hickeys, nipp
et a tae sy
Ifyou would ike to order projct supplies or bookssfrom
Woodsmith Project Supplies, please use our Toll Free
order line, see below I's cpen Monday through Friday,
‘rom 8 AM to 5 PM Central Time. Before calling, please
‘haveyour VISA, MasterCard, or Discover Card ready.
If you would like to mail in your order, call the
‘number below for more information concerning ship-
ping charges.as well as any applicable sales tax.
1-800-444-7527
‘When ordering please use Key W115.
ete: Price subject to change ater Apri 1998
No. 115
collars and rice pap
hangs below the top of the
Jamp,itshardto reachin to
turn the lights offandon),
Also, depending on your
bade, younay needaharp
and bracket. Again, their
size will depend on the
shade, so bring your lamp
tothe shop so you can get
everything in one trip,
RICE PAPER, I should also
mention that like lamp
shades, you can also find a
wide variety of rice paper
for the base of the lamp. So
you might want to check
uta local art store or a
good crat storeto see what
they have in stock.
HALL TREE
The hall tree doesn't
require any hardware atall.
All you need are patterns
‘or the two sets of hooks
and the feet Thereare pat-
terns for these pieces on
page 23. But if you would
liketo purchasefulleize pat
terns, they are currently
available rom Woodsmith
Project Supplies.
Hall Tree FullSize Patierns
8005-144 $3.95
Wood Net wow on re weet
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‘A One click. Thebaseof A Tuoelicks. The bulbon A Three clicks. Both
this lantem lamp gees off top of the lamp lights up us are dluminated.