NO.

27 NOTES FROM THE SHOP

COMPLETE PLANS FOR:

• PICNIC TABLE
• PATIO CHAIRS
• OUTDOOR BENCH
PLUS ... A SHOP TEST ON
CARBIDE-TIP SAW BLADES
 Sawdust
ABOUT THIS issue. I have a navy-blue by cutting through a piece of scrap oak.
Number 27 May/June, 1983 That’s when it happened. I didn’t realize
sweater with a hole in one sleeve. It’s
thread-bare, and sagging from old age. Steve had left the Freud “Anti-grip” blade
Editor on the saw. As I trimmed off the end of the
And I’ve been told it’s time to get rid of
Donald B. Peschke oak scrap, I noticed something was
“that old thing” and buy a new one.
Design Director But I like my old sweater. I always feel different.
Ted Kralicek warm in it — even though I know a new The cut seemed smooth, almost effort¬
sweater would really be warmer. less. I looked at the freshly cut end, and to
Assistant Editors my surprise, it wasn’t smooth . . . it was
So what’s the point of all this talk about
Steve Krohmer perfect. The end grain felt like glass. No
old sweaters? I thought this was a wood¬
Michael P. Scott torn fibers. No tooth marks. Just a
working magazine.
Graphic Designers Well, it’s just that I have almost the smooth, almost burnished surface you
David Kreyling same feelings about my saw blade. For the couldn’t help but touch... and be amazed.
Marcia Simmons past couple of years I’ve been using a I took the blade off the saw to see what it
Freud 50-tooth carbide-tipped com¬ looked like. It looks awesome. The teeth
Subscription Manager shine like something straight out of a
bination blade. That blade has cut a lot of
Sandy J. Baum toothpaste commercial. The blade itself is
wood and even though it’s beginning to
Subscription Assistants wear down a bit, I feel comfortable with it coated with black Teflon. (You get the
Christel Miner and it always gets the job done. feeling Darth Vader would use it to cut
Vicky Robinson I wouldn’t think of getting a new one. down his opponents.)
Jackie Stroud That is, until I made the mistake of using Okay, okay. All of this is beginning to
Shirley Feltman one of Freud’s new LU85M “Anti-grip” sound like a big public relations effort for
Pam Dickey blades. Just one cut, that’s all it took to Freud saw blades.
completely alter my way of looking at saw I will admit that I’m very impressed
Computer Operations with this blade. But in all fairness, I’m sure
Ken Miner blades and what I should expect of them.
But before I get too excited about this there are other saw blades that will pro¬
Circulation Manager blade, let me back up a minute and explain duce the same quality of cut. (The Mr.
Jeff Farris how all of this started. Steve Krohmer (our Sawdust blade is one of them.)
assistant editor) drew the assignment of But the point is this: using a good saw
Administrative Assistant blade does make a difference. If you expect
writing a two-page article about saw
Cheryl Scott perfection, there are blades that will pro¬
blades.
ISSN: 0164-4114 We agreed that we should buy several duce it. Then it’s just a matter of how much
types of blades and test them out to see if money it’s worth.
there really was any difference between I agree with Steve’s conclusions that
one blade and another. Without going one of the best choice for the money is the
overboard on this project, we settled on Freud 50-tooth combination blade (my old
two brands: Sears and Freud. Then we favorite). The new Anti-grip blade is a
added the “Mr. Sawdust” blade, because I fantastic blade, but it’s designed chiefly for
keep seeing full-page ads for it in .Fine cut-off work.
Woodworkhig and I wanted to know just I also agree that the Sears blades will
how good it was. cut wood, but they simply aren’t up to the
In the middle of all this, Ted Kralicek quality of the Freud products.
(our Design Director) decided we should As for the Mr. Sawdust blade, I’m still
get a new table saw. Things were getting a not quite convinced that “the only blade
little crowded in the shop — almost to the you’ll ever need” is worth $160.
point that we had to schedule time on the NEW FACES. We’ve added one more new
one table saw we had. face to the group at Woodsmith. Jeff Far¬
Our new saw and the collection of saw ris has joined us to coordinate the circula¬
blades arrived about the same time. It was tion efforts — the business side of this
then I realized that we were really buying business. Jeff is from Ava (population
two separate pieces of equipment. The 2,504), Missouri, where he operated his
table saw by itself is just a way to guide own hardwood lumber company.
boards through the blade. But it’s the saw As he comes on board here, our circula¬
blade that’s really doing all the work. tion stands at about 130,000, and Jeff will
WOODSMITH® (ISSN 0164-4114) is pub¬
I left the shop to sign the checks for all be responsible for keeping all of those num¬
lished bimonthly (February, April, June,
this new equipment. Meanwhile, Steve bers under control. But he’s off to a good
August, October, December) by Woodsmith
started testing the saw blades. A couple of start. He’s already assured me that cir¬
Publishing Co., 2200 Grand Ave., Des
weeks later, he emerged from the shop and culation will increase by one new sub¬
Moines, Iowa 50312.
announced that the two-page article on scriber. Jeff and Marilyn are expecting
Woodsmith® is a registered trademark of
saw blades was now going to be six pages. I their first child August 4th.
the Woodsmith Publishing Co.
©Copyright 1983 by Woodsmith Publishing agreed — if only to get him out of the shop
Co. All Rights Reserved. so I could get some time in on the new saw.
Printed in U.S.A. I thought I’d test out the new table saw

WOODSMITH
2
 Tips & Techniques
STICKY STAVES The first step is to label the individual
drawer sides using a simple method that MEASURED CUT OFFS
When it came time to “glue up” the staves involves marking each drawer side with I’ve been using a cut off jig you showed in
used for the turned canisters (Woodsmith a letter. The key to this marking system is Woodsmith No. 25 for some time now.
No. 25), I came up with an easy way to to mark the letter near the bottom edge on There is one change I’ve made that might
keep everything under control. I just used the inside face. interest your readers — I added a measur¬
tape (masking, fiberglass, or whatever) to ing tape.
secure all the individual pieces until To incorporate the measuring tape into
they’re glued together. the cut off jig, I simply redesigned the
The first step is to lay out all the staves fence into an “L” shape. This allows the Vfc"
edge to edge with the outside face upward. wide tape to be attached on the shoulder of

APPLY GLUE
TO JOINTS

Next, I made two labels that are at¬

"STICK ON"
tached to the dovetail jig for identifying TAPE MEASURE
both the proper sides, and their locations
for routing each of the four joints. Each
label consists of two separate two-letter
Then I applied two or three rows of tape to combinations. Each set of letters is posi¬ the fence. Then finally, adjustable stop
the outside face to hold the individual tioned with one letter over the other, blocks are cut to fit the new fence.
staves together. Finally, the whole assem¬ representing the two sides needed to form If the measuring tape is attached to the
bly is turned over and rolled into a cylinder each corner joint. The top letter repre¬ fence of the cut off jig accurately, you can
to check the fit between the staves. sents the piece placed in the top of the jig, save a lot of time normally used in measur¬
If everything fits okay, the next step is and the bottom letter represents the piece ing and marking.
to flatten the assembly out and brush glue placed in the front of the jig.
on the edges of each stave. Then the entire Example: The dovetail formed between L. A. Snyder
assembly is rolled up, and clamped with sides B and A is cut using the left side of Wyoming, Michigan
web clamps. the jig (two of the joints are cut using the
If the fit between the staves needs ad¬ left side of the jig, and the remaining two
justing, I don’t apply glue to two of the joints use the right side of the jig). The Editor’s Note: For more information on
joints (opposite each other). This produces label shows side B over side A, so piece B where you can find self-adhesive measuring
two half cylinders after the assembly has is inserted in the top of the jig, and piece A tapes see the Sources page at the hack of this
been clamped. When everything is dry, I issue for a list of available mail-order
trim the two halves until they mate per¬ sources.
fectly. Then finally, the two half cylinders These tapes are 6 feet long, Vs" wide, and
are glued together.
calibrated in Vis" increments (the first 6"
Percy F. Hansen are calibrated in Vss increments). They
Walhalla, North Dakota can be easily cut to match the length of the
cut-off jig fence (they 're made with .008"
ORGANIZED DOVETAILS thick steel). The rule is attached by remov¬
ing the paper back and simply pressing the
Recently I constructed a few drawers (14 tape in position.
to be exact) using a dovetail fixture to rout One other note: When the tape is set up
half blind dovetails on all four corners. This for a particular blade, it may not be accu¬
involved a total of 56 individual joints, and rate when used with another blade.
about 10 million possible combinations. is inserted in the front of the jig. Note:
About the time I was half done, the Always keep the labeled face of the drawer SEND IN YOUR IDEAS
problem started. All of a sudden I realized sides facing out, away from the jig, and
that I have become confused about where the labeled edge against the guide pins in If you’d like to share a woodworking tip with other
to position the proper pieces for each joint. the jig. readers of Woodsmith, send your idea to:
(Repetition doesn’t sharpen my mind, it Using this system, I can tell at a glance Woodsmith, Tips & Techniques, 2200 Grand
dulls it.) which two sides are joined together, and Ave., Des Moines, Iowa 50312.
So to eliminate the chance of mounting where to locate each individual piece. We pay a minimum of $10 for tips, and $15 or
the pieces into the dovetail jig in the Even after 56 joints. more for special techniques (that are accepted
wrong position, I came up with a simple for publication). Please give a complete ex¬
labeling system for both the drawer sides, Sue Kortum
Custer, South Dakota planation of your idea. If a sketch is needed,
and the jig. send it along; we’ll draw a new one.

Woodsmith
3
 Picnic Table
LIGHTWEIGHT, STURDY & STORES FLAT
When I set out to build a picnic table, I had
two things in mind. First, I had visions of
barbecued steaks, corn on the cob, potato
salad, and cold watermelon — all nicely
laid out on a picnic table in my back yard.
But my second thought was, “What am I
going to do with the table when the gloomy
weather of winter rolls around and I want
to store it away?”
To solve this winter-time storage prob¬
lem, I needed a fairly light-weight table
that could be moved without the use of a
tow truck. Also to make moving it around
and storing it easier, I wanted to make the
legs of the table collapsible so it wouldn’t
take up much space.
Before I even sat down at the drawing
board, I realized that this table is one of the
few projects I’ve designed for when it
wasn't going to be used. The method I
came up with to accomplish this goal was to
use a hinged-leg arrangement that’s not
only easy to set up, but it’s also
quick and easy to tear down.
The next problem was to de¬
sign the table top so the same
style could be used on a set of
chairs (page 8) and a bench
(page 12) — creating a coordi¬ rails (A) — a half lap at both ends, and
nated outdoor furniture set. To cross laps 8" from each end, see Fig. 2.
coordinate these three com¬ GROOVES. After the joints were cut, I
ponents, I used a simple cut grooves on the edges of the two end
construction technique that rails (B) and the two divider (C) rails to
involves making frames out of house the slats. Here, I wanted to make
D/V'-thick redwood and then sure the face of the slats would be flush
inserting 3/i"-thick cedar slats. with the face of the frame members.
(These thinner slats also help To do this, hold the face side of one of the
to reduce the overall weight of the table easy, I thought, to get two 2W'-wide
pieces out of a 2x6 (which is actually 5V/ slats on the edge of one of the rails, and
top). mark the position of the undevside of the
wide). But it didn’t work that way on the
THE TABLE TOP material I was using because some of the slat on the edge of the rail. Then set up the
boards were narrower than they were saw to cut a Vs" x %" groove so the bottom
The table top is constructed following the
supposed to be. edge of the groove is on the line.
same basic theme of the entire outdoor As shown in Figure 2, the two end rails
furniture set: a redwood frame with cedar What I wound up doing was ripping the
2x6s down the center first. Then I set the (B) have grooves on the inside edge only.
slats. Only in the case of the table top, the The two divider rails (C) have grooves on
frame is modified slightly to accommodate fence for 2V2" and ripped off as much of the
outside (rounded) edge as I could. both edges.
two extra divider rails, see Fig. 1. lag SCREWS. To strengthen each of the
These extra rails serve two purposes. Finally, I cut the two long rails (A) to a
length of 64", and the end rails (B) and the half laps I added lag screws at each joint.
First, they shorten the span of the cedar
divider rails (C) to a length of 35^". But before drilling for the lag screws, first
slats (thus providing additional support for
I dry-clamped all six members of the frame
the slats). And second, they provide a HALF LAPS AND GROOVES (clamping the long rails against the shoul¬
place for attaching the legs on the .under¬
After all six pieces are cut to size, they’re ders of the half laps on the end rails and
side of the table. divider rails). Then just to be sure, I
CUT TO size. All of the pieces for the joined with half laps to form the frame. I
cut the half laps on both ends of the divider- double-checked the frame for square.
table top are ripped to a standard width of
rails (C) and the end rails (B) first. (All four Finally, I marked the center of each
2V2". I started with the six pieces for the
pieces are cut with the same setting on the joint and drilled %" counterbores 3/s" deep,
frame, ripping them out of 2x6 redwood,
saw to make sure the shoulder-to-shoulder followed by Vs" pilot holes. (I found
see Cutting Diagram. the easiest way to drill all these holes
shop NOTE: Since 2x6s usually have distance between the half laps is exactly
the same on these four pieces.) was to use a drill mounted in a Portalign
rounded edges, I ripped these pieces to get
Next, I cut the joints on the two long attachment.)
two clean (square) edges. It should be

WOODSMITH
4
 THE SLATS FIGURE 1
OH
U—R"--- , , , "1
While the frame is dry-clamped together, 2W'—*■ H2V2H- 8
r r/2r 2 V-T
1 -1-J-1-
measure the distance between the grooves
to determine the length to cut the slats. _L2Vi"
.
!
1—
A
ifl’’
33
2 W'

f*- 1
1 1 1

Then all of the slats are cut 2W wide, and h-8”—j

*-1
to length (to fit between the grooves). I i II 111
After cutting the slats to size, I cut I I II © II l11
© 1
rabbets on each end to leave a %" x %" I 2 V2" _1 I I
tongue to fit the grooves, see Fig. 3.
ez; t 1 I l1
And finally, to reduce the chance of II
©m I fa 11 - 1
splintering, I also chamfered both top 35V2 I B
edges of each slat. 30'/2 1 V«" SPACE BETWEEN SLATS 1 ■2'/a"

ASSEMBLY
1 I I I 11
1 I I l 11
Now the table top is ready to be as¬ 1 I 1 II 11
sembled. Slide the slats into the grooves 1 I I I ll1
and apply adhesive to all the half laps. (I
used resorcinol glue. It’s waterproof and
1 I I ll
2V7" [*—8%"—| b- -38%"- l—83/V'—J
suitable for outdoor projects.) Then drive
the lag screws home.
When the glue is dry, cut a l3// radius on
the four corners of this frame with a sabre
saw, and round over all edges with a %"
corner-round bit, see Fig. 4.
align slats. Position the slats evenly
across the width of the table, and drive
3-penny finish nails through the center of
each slat (from the bottom side of the
table).
BRACKET FOR LEGS
Finally, a support bracket is mounted to
the underside of the table, see Fig. 5. This
bracket supports the slats at the center of
the table, and is also used to mount the
hinged braces for the legs.
Cut the bracket (D) to length so it over¬
laps the outside rails IV2" on both ends, see
Fig. 6. Then cut a half lap on each end so
the shoulders of the half lap fit tight
against the inside edges of the long rails.
After it’s cut to length, drill pilot holes
and apply glue to the half lap (but not on
any part that touches the slats), and screw
it in place.
secure slats. Finally, I counterbored
pilot holes in the bracket, so each hole was
centered on a slat (see Fig. 5) and secured
the slats to the bracket with #8 - l3//
woodscrews.

FIGURE 5

WOODSM1TH
FIGURE 7 THE LEG ASSEMBLIES
2 Vi" •5"—-) 2’/j"p— —*j2W'|-—5" IVa"
After the table top is built, the only thing
2Vi" H V/2 left to do is to add the legs. Initially, I
designed this table with a trestle leg sys¬
1—-5"-
5” -I tem. But this style doesn’t allow the legs to
collapse for easy storage.
DRILL Vs" HOLE After a little more time at the drawing
CENTERED ON board, I came up with a hinged leg system
STOCK
that’s sturdy, yet can be disassembled for
storage. And one of the nicest things about
this system is that it only requires building-
two simple frames . . . using half laps,
naturally.
it:
2 Vi ( 1 i
J
2 5 '/a''——-*

2»/a"
LEG ASSEMBLIES. Both leg frames con¬
sist of two legs (G), and two stretchers (H
and I). The first step is to rip all of the
pieces for the frame to 21/2" wide. Then I
r
cut the legs to a length of 28", and the two
stretchers 30Vz long.
After all the pieces for the leg assem¬
blies are cut to size, the next step is to cut
half laps on both ends of the legs, and on
both ends of the stretchers, see Fig. 7.
At this point, I cut two additional
notches in the top stretchers (H) on both
leg assemblies. These notches house the
braces (J) so they lie flat against the table
top (when the table is broken down for
storage), refer to Fig. 11. These notches
are 2Vfe" wide, 3A" deep and are cut T/z
from each end of the stretcher.
The last step before assembly is to drill
two %" holes for the bolts used to attach
the legs to the table top. These holes are
5" from each end of the top stretcher, see
Fig. 7.
assembly. Now the leg frames are
ready for assembly. Dry-clamp the four
pieces for each frame, and check the fit of
the joints and the square of the frame.
Then mark the center of each joint and drill
W counterbores, 3/s" deep. Follow these
counterbores with the Vs pilot holes for
the leg screws. Finally, apply glue to each
joint and lag screw the leg frames
together.
MOUNT THE LEG FRAMES
One of the tricks to this leg system is the
way it folds down for storage. To be effec¬
tive, the legs have to be easy to remove.
Yet, when the table is assembled, the leg
frames have to be mounted so that they’re
sturdy.
To accomplish both objectives, I moun¬
ted the frames to the bottom of the table
with rosan inserts and hex head bolts.
SHOP NOTE: Rosan inserts (also called
threaded inserts) are brass sleeves that
are threaded on both the outside and in¬
side. The outside threads are similar to
those on a screw — so the insert can be
screwed into a hole. Then the inside
threads are sized to accept a common hex
head bolt.
The rosan inserts I used on this table are

6 WOODSMITH
threaded on the inside to accept a %" hex
head bolt. And the hole needed to screw
them in place should be W in diameter.
DRILL holes. To mount the rosan in¬
serts, the first step is to mark the position
of two holes on the divider rail (C). These
two holes must line up with the two holes in
the top stretcher of the leg frame.
To mark their position, I put hex head
bolts in the holes of the stretcher and cen¬
tered the stretcher on the divider rail.
When it’s centered, I just gave the bolts a
sharp tap to mark where the holes should
be drilled.
Drill V2" holes at these points, and screw
the %" rosan inserts in place. And finally,
mount the legs with %" x 3" hex head bolts.
SUPPORT BRACES
The leg frames are supported with two
braces (J) going from the bottom stretcher
of each frame to the center bracket, see
Fig. 9. To get the final length of these
braces, first mount the legs to the bottom
of the table. Then measure from the inside
corner of the stretcher (I) to the inside
corner of the bracket (D) and subtract Va
from this measurement to allow room for
the hinges.
mount braces. To mount the braces, I
used strap hinges on both ends of the
braces, see Fig. 10. First, I attached the
strap end of one hinge to the end of the
brace. Then on the other end of the brace, I
attached another strap hinge to the op¬
posite face.
Next, I mounted the flap end of one
hinge to the center bracket. Here, be sure
the knuckle of the hinge is centered on the
edge of the bracket, see Detail in Fig. 11.
However, when mounting the other hinge
to the stretcher, slide the knuckle off-
center slightly — so the edge of the hinge
knuckle is on the edge of the stretcher.
(This is to make sure the hinge doesn’t bind
when the legs are folded down.)
FOLDING THE LEGS
When the braces are mounted, the table is
ready to use. Then when you want to dis¬
assemble it for storage, loosen the hex
head bolts (that hold the leg frames to the MATERIALS LIST CUTTING DIAGRAM
rosan insert on the bottom of the table).
Then fold the leg frames down, moving For the Table Top Frame: REDWOOD IVi" x 5’/a" - 72
the top stretcher toward the center of A Long Rails (2) 1 ’/a x 2’/a - 64
the table. B End Rails (2) 1 Va x 2 Va - 35 Va REDWOOD 1 Vi" x 5Vi" - 96
If everything is aligned properly, the C Divider Rails (2) l’/a X 2 Va - 35’/a
support braces (J) should fold neatly in the D Center Bracket (1) 1 Va x 2Va - 33Va
F=E]
notches in the bottom stretcher of the leg E Short Slats (22) 3/4 x 2Va - 8 Va 4
frames. To hold the leg frames in place F Long Slats (11) Va x 2Va - 38Va b—i I i
during storage, I added small hooks and For■ the Leg Frames: CEDAR Va" x 5 Vi" - 48"
screw-eyes. G Legs (4) TVa x 2Va - 28
finishing. Since food is likely to come in H Top Stretchers (2) 1 Va x 2 Vi - 30 Vi
bd- 1 I -1_H
CEDAR Va x 5 Vi" - 96
contact with the surface of the table, a 1 Bottom Stretchers (2) 1 ’/a X 2’/a - 30Va
stain that’s non-toxic when it’s dry should J Braces (4) Va x 2’/a - 26 £5
be used. See page 14 for a review of the
possible stains to use. I +~H

WOODSMITH 7
 Patio Chairs
SUMMERTIME SITTIN'
Building a chair for outdoor use (especially
one that’s built entirely of wood) has two
essential requirements. First, it must ad¬
here to the mailman’s creed: resisting the
ravages of “mud, rain, sleet, hail, and
snow.” And second, it can’t have any
splinters.
To meet the first requirement, the chair
shown here is built with redwood and
cedar. Both of these woods are weather
resistant. However, they’re also prone to
splintering. So all edges are rounded over
and sanded smooth to prevent any hang¬
ups.
As for the construction of this chair, it’s
designed to be built using only one basic
woodworking joint — a half lap (with the
help of a few lag screws). Also, to make
everything go a little easier, all of the
pieces used to build this chair are cut to a
standard width of 2V2".
TO START. To start things off, I ripped all
of the redwood to a width of 2V2". (All
pieces are cut out of 2x6 stock, as shown in
the Cutting Diagram.) Then the 16 pieces
for the side, seat, and back frames are cut
to length as shown in the Materials List
(Items A throughG).
THE SIDE FRAMES
Once all of the pieces were cut to width and
length, I started to work on the two side
frames. Both of these frames consist of
two legs (A), one arm (B), and one middle
stretcher (C).
JOINERY. The first step is to cut a half lap
on both ends of the arms and stretchers,
bores are drilled, drill Vs'-diameter pilot inside edges, between the arm and the
and on the top end of each leg. Then
holes for the lag screws, see Detail B. stretcher, remain square-edged.)
another half lap (which in this case is called
Note: The fourth joint (where the arm PIVOT dowel. Finally, a %" hole, IV\
a cross lap), is cut near the bottom of each
meets the back leg) has a hole for a pivot deep is drilled in the center of the fourth
leg. The only thing that sets this joint
dowel that’s used to attach the chair’s joint (where the arm meets the back leg.)
apart from all the others is that it’s cut 3Vfew
back, see Detail A. This hole is drilled later Then glue a 2"-long pivot dowel into this
from the bottom of each leg, rather than
flush with the ends, see Fig. 1. on (after the frame is assembled). hole, see Fig. 2.
SHOP NOTE: Although I started construc¬ glue UP. After the three counterbores SEAT AND BACK FRAMES
tion with the two side frames, in actual and pilot holes are drilled, remove the bar
clamps and round-over the bottom end of After the side frames are completed, the
practice it’s best to cut all of the half laps
each leg with a 3/s" corner-round bit (on a other two frames are built (one frame
for all four frames at the same time. This
router table), see Fig. 2. forms the seat and the other one forms the
ensures consistency for all of the joints.
Now, glue is applied to all four joints of back). Both of these frames consist of a
COUNTERBORE FOR LAG SCREWS. After
both frames. (I used resorcinol glue for this redwood frame with cedar slats. And once
cutting the half laps for the side frames, I
dry-clamped the frame members together project. It’s waterproof and suitable for again, all pieces are 2Vfew wide.
outdoor applications.) Then drive 1" lag THE FRAMES. To make both the seat (D
with pipe clamps (clamping across the legs
screws in three of the joints. The fourth and E) and back (F and G) frames, cut half
to hold them against the shoulders of the
joint (for the pivot dowel) is held together laps on the ends of each piece, see Fig. 4.
arm and stretcher). Check all the joints to
with a C-clamp until the glue dries. Then before the frames are assembled, cut
make sure they fit properly.
ROUND OVER. To soften the edges of the a 3/s" x %" groove on the four 19"-long
Then I used a drill mounted in a Port-
chair, cut a 1%" radius on the top corners pieces (D and F) to house the slats.
align attachment to counterbore a %" hole,
of the frames (where the legs and arms This groove must be positioned so the
W deep in the center of three joints: both
meet). Then round-over all of the edges on slats are flush with the top face of the
joints on the stretcher and the front joint
the outside of the frame, see Fig. 3. (The frame. To mark the correct position for the
on the arm, see Fig. 1. After the counter¬

WOODSMITH
8
 groove, place one of the cedar slats flush
with the top face of the frame member, and
mark the underside of the slat on the edge
of the frame member, see Detail in Fig. 4.
Then cut the groove so the bottom of the
groove is on this line.
the slats. After the grooves are cut,
the five cedar slats (L and M) for each
frame can be cut to width and length. Once
again, these slats are 21// wide. To deter¬
mine their length, dry-assemble the
frames and measure the distance between
the bottoms of the grooves and cut them to
this length.
Next, rabbet both ends of the slats, leav¬
ing 3/s" x %" tongues to fit the grooves.
Also chamfer the top edges of each slat to
reduce the chance of splintering.
COUNTERBORE AND PILOT HOLES. After
the slats are cut, dry-clamp the four frame
members together and drill 3A" counter¬
bores and Vs" pilot holes at the center of
each joint for the lag screws.
Then, before final assembly, two more
3/<i" holes are needed on the back frame.
These holes will accept the pivot dowels on
the side frames and are drilled %" deep and
centered on the outside edges of the side
pieces (G), see Fig. 4.
ASSEMBLY. Now the frames can be as¬
sembled. Insert the slats in the grooves of
the frame, apply glue to the half laps (no
glue in the grooves or on the slats), and
screw the frames together.
POSITION SLATS. After the glue is dry,
tap the slats into position so they’re evenly
spaced in the frame. Then nail them in
place (from the back side) with 3-penny
finish nails.
corner round. Finally, the four cor¬
ners of each frame are cut to a W radius,
and then the outside edges are rounded
over with a 3/s" corner-round bit.
FIGURE 4 BACK FRAME DETAIL SLAT DETAIL BOTTOM VIEW CORNER JOINT DETAIL
%" HOLE, 3/«" DEEP
CENTERED ON STOCK
2'/a" 3/b" x 3/b" TONGUE ON
TONGUE BOTH ENDS
3E

12"
T
7Va"
•

-*■
2'/a-

1
19"
SEAT FRAME DETAIL CHAMFER EDGES
SLIGHTLY

®
FRAME/SLAT CROSS SECTION

17W' CD 13'/." 2Vi

-1— !r=“t=*=«*
2Vi"

3/a" CORNER ROUND

U-19”--1 ON OUTSIDE EDGES

WOODSMITH 9
FIGURE 5 17" SEAT SUPPORT SYSTEM
At this point the four basic frames for the
2’/a" chair are complete. Next, I added a sup¬
port system to provide a solid base for the
seat frame, and also to increase the overall
-43/<T- stability of the chair. The seat support
consists of two cleats (H) with a cross
OUTSIDE FAC stretcher (I) between them, see Fig. 6.

FRONT EDGE
THE CLEATS
f 3/4" COUNTERBORE, 3/b" DEEP To make the cleats for this support sys¬
1
-* WITH ’A” PILOT HOLE--
tem, rip two pieces of redwood 2Vfe" wide
-FRONT EDGE and to a rough length of 18". Then miter
both ends at 6°, making sure the cuts are
INSIDE FACE parallel to each other, see Step 1 in Fig. 5.
3/4" COUNTERBORE, 3/o" DEEP WITH '/V' The final length of each cleat should be 17"
PILOT HOLE CENTERED ON THICKNESS-^ (measured from long point to short point
on one edge).
ASSEMBLY HOLES. Next, six holes are
drilled in each cleat. Each hole consists of a
3/4" counterbore with a Vi" pilot hole drilled
all the way through.
The first two holes are used to join the
cleat to the cross stretcher. They’re drilled
so the counterbores are on the outside face
of the cleat, see Step 2 in Fig. 5.
The next two holes are used to join the
cleat to the side frame. They’re drilled
with the counterbores on the inside face of
the cleat, see Step 3 in Fig. 5.
And finally, the remaining two holes are
used to mount the seat. They’re drilled on
the bottom edge of each cleat, as shown in
Step 4 in Fig. 5.
CROSS STRETCHER
To add stability (that is, to prevent rack¬
ing) a cross stretcher is mounted between
the two cleats.
The length of this cross stretcher (I)
must be equal to the width of the seat
frame (which should be 19") minus the
thickness of both cleats (a total of 3"). This
should be a final length of 16".
After cutting the stretcher to final
length, dry-clamp it between the two
cleats and make sure the total width of this
assembly is exactly equal to the width of
the seat frame. And while you’re at it, also
check to see that the width of the back
frame is equal to the seat frame.
DOWEL HOLES. The cleats are mounted
to the cross stretcher by driving lag screws
into the end grain of the stretcher, see Fig.
6. However, end grain does not provide
much holding strength for the lag screws.
To strengthen the holding power, drill a
%" hole near each end of the stretcher, and
glue a 3A" dowel in these holes so the lag
screws have something to hold on to.
When the dowels are in place, clamp the
cleats to the ends of the stretcher (see Fig.
7) and drill Vs pilot holes into the ends of
the stretcher, going through the dowels.
Then drive the lag screws into the holes
(and dowels) to hold the assembly to¬
gether, see Fig. 8.

10 WOODSM1TH
 FIGURE 10
MOUNT SUPPORT SYSTEM
Now the seat support assembly can be
mounted to the side frames. This assembly
INSIDE FACE OF SIDE FRAME
is mounted at an angle to make the chair
more comfortable. After a few “test sits” I
decided on an angle of 6°. This angle gives o~ 0^
the feeling of sitting “in” the chair rather
than just “on” it.
To mount the support system, first lo¬ 9Vb"
11W'
cate the position of the pilot holes for the
lag screws. The Vs pilot holes on the front
legs are located 9%" down from the bottom
edge of the arm and W from the inside
edge of the leg, see Fig. 10.
4 "^rr'/a" PILOT
3/4" HOLES -
k-
The pilot holes on the back legs must be
FRONT LEG
lower to get the 6° angle (mentioned
above). To locate the pilot holes on the
back legs, mark a line 11V* down from the
BACK LEG
bottom edge of the arm. Then temporarily
screw the cleat to the front leg and align
the center of the counterbore (on the back
MOUNT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
of the cleat) with the marked line. Poke an
AND BACK FRAME
awl through the counterbore to mark the AT SAME TIME
position of the pilot hole. Finally, drill Vs
pilot holes in the back legs.
assembly. Now the seat support assem¬
bly can be glued and screwed to the side
frames. NOTE: When you’re ready to
drive the lag screws home, be sure to
mount the chair’s back frame in position.
Apply a coat of wax to the pivot dowels and
pop them into the holes in the back frame.
MOUNT THE SEAT FRAME
Next, the seat frame is mounted to the
support system. Position the seat frame so
it hangs 2V&" in front of the front edge of
the legs, see Fig. 11. Clamp it in place and
use an awl to locate the position of Vs" pilot
holes. Then remove the seat frame, drill
the pilot holes, and finally glue and lag the
frame into position. MATERIALS LIST

BOTTOM STRETCHER AND CAPS A Side Frame Legs (4) V/z x 2 Vi - 27

B Side Frame Arms (2) V/z x 2Vz - 19
Although the chair should be pretty sturdy
C Side Frame Stretchers (2) V/z x 2Vz - 19
at this point, it’s best to add another cross
D Seat Frame Top/Btm (2) lVi x 2Vz - 19
stretcher (J) between the two leg stretch¬
E Seat Frame Sides (2) 1Vi x 2Vz - 17Vz
ers. This stretcher is cut to length so it’s 2"
F Back Frame Top/Btm (2) V/z x 2Vz - 19
longer than the width of the seat frame.
G Back Frame Sides (2) V/z x 2Vz - 12
Then cut l"-wide, 3/i"-deep rabbets on each
H Support Cleats (2) VA x 2Vz - 17
end, see Fig. 9.
1 Support Stretcher (1) V/z x 2Vz - 16
After the rabbets are cut, make sure the
J Bottom Stretcher (1) V/z x 2Vz - 21
distance between the shoulders of the rab¬
K Cleat Caps (2) % x 2Vz - 14 Vi
bets is exactly equal to the width of the
L Seat Slats (5) 3/4 x 2 Vi - 13%
seat frame. (This should be 19".) Then
M Back Slats (5) 3/4 x 2 Vi - 734
round over all edges of this stretcher, and
glue it in place, see Fig. 12.
caps. Finally, to dress up the side of the CUTTING DIAGRAM
chair a little, I added cap strips (K) to cover
the side cleats. These caps are 3/>" thick
and cut to fit between the two legs with
both ends mitered at 6°. (To get the %"
thickness for these caps, I resawed them
from IV2" stock.)
FINISHING. I’d suggest using some type
of protective stain on this chair. A review
of the possibilities is given on page 14.

WOODSMITH 11
 Garden Bench
SIDE BY SIDE SITTIN'
Everyone has a favorite way to relax. For
me it’s sitting on a bench and watching life
go by. After building this bench, I pulled
it over to a large walnut tree in my back
yard. And there, in the cool shade, I sat
back on my bench, propped up my feet, and
watched the neighbors mow their lawns. (I
guess benches just bring out my romantic
nature.)
Actually this bench was designed as a
companion piece to the picnic table and
chairs in this issue. In fact, the construc¬
tion of this bench is almost identical to the
chairs. The first step is to rip all the pieces
to a standard width of 2Vz. Then I started
construction with the side frames.
THE SIDE FRAMES
First, cut the legs (A), arms (B), and
stretchers (C) to length, and cut half laps
on each piece. (Refer to the drawing on
page 9.) Then dry-clamp the frame mem¬
bers together and mark the positions of the
lag screws on three of the joints (where the
stretches overlap the legs and where the
front leg meets the arm.)
Next, drill ^''-diameter counterbores
%" deep at each joint, and follow with V&
pilot holes drilled all the way through each bottom of this groove on the inside edge of with two dowels. This means the back will
counterbore. (I used a drill mounted to a the long frame members.) be at a set angle (it won’t pivot), and thus
Portalign attachment to drill these holes.) the slats. There are 18 slats (L and M) it’s a little sturdier.
on each frame, and each slat is 2Vz wide. HOLES IN SIDE FRAME. To do this, the
Everything up to now has been the same
procedure as on the chairs. However, To determine the final length of the slats, first step is to drill two Vz" holes in the side
there’s a change for the fourth joint (where dry-assemble the frames and measure the frames. The first hole is centered on the
distance between the bottoms of the joint where the arm meets the back leg,
the arm meets the back leg).
Instead of drilling a hole for a single grooves and cut the slats to this length. see Fig. 2. Then a second hole is marked
pivoting dowel, I anchored the back frame Next, cut rabbets on both ends of the 21/2" down from the first one, and %" from
to the side frames with two dowels. How¬ slats to leave 3/s"-thick tongues to fit in the the inside edge of the frame.
ever, I waited to drill these holes until grooves. (If all measurements and cuts After the positions of both holes are
after the back frame was assembled. have gone according to schedule, the dis¬ marked, drill Vz" holes, 1" deep on the
ASSEMBLY. For now, go ahead and glue tance between the shoulders of the rabbets inside face of both side frames.
on the slats should be equal to the distance HOLES IN BACK FRAME. Then, two
and lag screw the side frames together.
After they’re assembled, cut a l3// radius between the shoulders of the half laps on matching Vz holes must be drilled on the
on the top corners (where the arms meet the side pieces of the frame.) side pieces (G) of the back frame. The first
the legs), and round over the outside edges ASSEMBLY. At this point the frame for hole is centered on the length of the side
of the frame with a %" corner-round bit. the seat can be assembled (but wait on the piece, see Fig. 3. To locate the second hole,
back frame). Dry-clamp the seat frame measure down 2Vz (which is the same
THE SEAT AND BACK FRAMES together and drill counterbores and pilot distance as between the centers of the
The basic construction of the frames for holes at each corner. Then insert the slats, holes on the side frame). Mark this dis¬
the seat and back is identical to those on apply glue to the half laps, and screw the tance down from the first hole, and drill the
the chair. The only difference is the length frames together. Finally, cut a l3/i" radius second hole.
at each corner, and round over the edges assembly. The last step is to glue Vz
of two members on each frame.
The seat frame consists of two long with a 3/s" corner-round bit. dowels into the holes in the side frame, see
pieces (D), and two side pieces (E), see Fig. 3. Then the back frame can be assem¬
MOUNTING HOLES bled. (Just follow the same procedure men¬
Fig. 1. The back frame has two long pieces
(F) and two side pieces (G). Before the back frame can be assembled, I tioned above for the seat frame.)
After the four pieces for each frame are worked on the mounting system to join the SEAT SUPPORT SYSTEM
cut to length, cut half laps at the ends of back frame to the side frames. Here, in¬
each piece. Then cut %" x 3/s" grooves in stead of drilling a single hole for a pivoting The seat support system for this bench is
the long pieces. (Once again, use a piece of dowel (as was done on the chair), I an¬ similar to the one for the chair, but due to
scrap cedar to mark the position of the chored the back frame to the side frames the extra length of the bench (and the

WOODSMITH
12
potential for greater racking pressure), I FIGURE 1 HALF LAP AT ALL FOUR CORNERS
FRAME FOR BACK
put two stretchers between the cleats (in¬ . 3/e" x Va" GROOVE

stead of just one as on the chair).

THE CLEATS. Once again cut the two
r 2'A *
'/ :i
cleats (H) to a rough length of 18" and miter
both ends at 6°. Then drill the six counter¬ 12" ©
1
7Va" Va"

bores and pilot holes in the cleats (as shown

in Fig. 5 on page 10).
1 2 Vi

THE STRETCHERS. After the cleats are GL

SPACE
cut and drilled, mark off the length of the -543/«"-
SLATS
support stretchers (I) so the total width of Va" half lap at all four corners
the support assembly is equal to the width APART FRAME FOR SEAT 1 _3/8" x 3/8» GROOVE

of the bench seat. Also drill the %" holes at

each end of the stretchers for the 3A"
dowels. Then the cleats are lag screwed to
the stretchers the same way as was done
on the chair, see Fig. 4.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
To begin the final assembly of this bench,
the support assembly is mounted to the
side frames at a 6° angle. To mount this
assembly, first locate the position of the
pilot hole on the front leg, 95/s" down from
the bottom of the arm and %" in from the
inside edge of the leg.
To locate the pilot hole on the back leg,
mark a line ll1// down from the bottom
edge of the arm. Then temporarily screw
the cleat to the front leg and align the
center of the counterbore (on the back of
the cleat) with the line on the back leg.
Poke the point of an awl through the coun¬
terbore to mark the position of the pilot
hole. Finally, drill the Vs" pilot holes on the
back legs.
When you’re ready to mount the support
assembly to the side frames, be sure to
mount the back frame on the dowels. This
time, apply glue to the dowels to fasten
them into the holes in the back frame. At
the same time, glue and screw the support
assembly to the side frames.
THE FINAL STEPS
Now it’s beginning to look like a bench. All
that remains is to add the seat frame and a
bottom stretcher.
ADD seat frame. Position the seat
frame on the support cleats so the front
edge is 2.V2 in front of the legs. Poke an awl
through the counterbores on the bottom of
the cleat to mark the position of the pilot
holes. MATERIALS LIST CUTTING DIAGRAM
When I was ready to mount the seat 2
REDWOOD 1 V2" x 5V " - 96"
A Side Frame Legs (4) 11/2 x 2’/2 - 27
frame, I made one minor addition. To keep
this rather long frame from sagging in the B VA
Side Frame Arms (2) x 2 Vi - 19 .1 i
C Side Frame Stretchers (2) VA x 2'A - 19
middle, I glued an extra slat to the under¬
D Seat Frame Top/Btm (2) 1 Vi x 214 - 543/4
side of the middle slat on the frame. This -F
E Seat Frame Sides (2) VA x 2'A - 17 Vi
extra slat rests on the two support stretch¬ REDWOOD 1 V2 x 5Va" - 60"
F Back Frame Top/Btm (2) 1 Vi x 2'A - 543/4
ers and holds the seat up.
STRETCHER and caps. Finally, I added
G Back Frame Sides (2) VA x 2Vi - 12 l l ^
H Support Cleats (2) VA x 2Va - 18 I:' 6 i a fJ///////////z^
the bottom stretcher (J) that goes between
1 Support Stretcher (2) 1 Vi x 2 Vi - 513/4 CEDAR Va" % S'A" - 72”
the stretchers on the side frames. It’s cut
2" longer than the length of the seat, and J
K
Bottom Stretcher (1) 1 Vi x 2Vi - 563/4
Hr I M M FTt Wl
the ends are rabbeted with l"-wide, Cleat Caps (2) 3/, x 2Vi - 14V4

3/i"-deep rabbets. As on the chair, I also L Seat Slats (] 8) 3/4 X 2V2 - 1314 LM i I H \rWmiL
added %"-thick caps (K) over the cleats. M Back Slats (18) 3/4 x2Vi- 73/4 mgianrimmu-MiBi
WOODSMITH 13
 Outdoor Finishes
FIGHT BACK AGAINST MOTHER NATURE
The outdoor furniture in this issue got me
to thinking about the irony of trees — they
spend their entire lives outdoors, planted
in the dirt, and under constant attack from
the weather and all sorts of bugs. As long
as the tree is alive it manages — for the
most part — to fend off all comers.
But the minute you turn a tree into
lumber, Mother Nature’s protection dis¬
appears and it’s up to us mortals to supply
artificial protection.
Left outside and unprotected, all woods
(with the exception of the rare Arizona
hardwood, Petrified) are, sooner or later,
turned to mulch. The insects and fungi
which find a cozy home inside the dark,
moist lumber eat the wood into oblivion.
Some woods, Redwood and Cedar for
instance, have considerable natural resis¬
tance to rot, decay and insects. The heart-
wood (but not the sapwood) of these woods
contains chemical extractives that give the
wood immunity to decay.
There are several other woods with
natural resistance to decay. The U.S. De¬
partment of Agriculture’s Forest Products
Laboratory classifies Bald Cypress (old
or brownish cast, but I’ll deal with that outdoor finishing products contain
growth), Black Cherry, Black Walnut,
later. chemicals that work just as well and are
several lands of Oaks, Chestnut, Pacific
In spite of the advantages of using press¬ much safer for use around plants, animals
Yew, and Catalpa as “resistant” or “very
ure treated wood, I still like the idea of and people.
resistant.” One other tip: when applying these
When it came time to select the wood to traditional Redwood or Cedar for outdoor
projects, and since combining the two preservatives/stains, be sure to follow the
use for the outdoor projects in this issue, it
woods creates a nice visual effect, I de¬ manufacturer’s specific instructions for
was pretty easy to narrow my choice to
cided to use them both. preparation, application, coverage, and
Cedar and Redwood because of their gen¬
safety.
eral availability and their natural resist¬ FOOLING MOTHER NATURE , STAINS. All wood discolors (turns grey or
ance. But Cedar and Redwood have an¬
If I lived in a place where the sun never black) when exposed to the double
other thing going for them: dimensional
shone and it was dry and there were no whammy of the sun’s ultraviolet rays and
stablity — their tendency not to shrink,
insects, I wouldn’t have had to think any water (which leaches the color producing
warp, or cup. extractives from the wood). Some people
There is one other kind of wood to think more about protecting my outdoor furni¬
ture. However, most of us don’t (thank like this natural look, and there are even
about: pressure treated wood. Pressure
goodness) live in places like that so we’re some wood preservative/stains designed
treatment involves saturating wood (of a
faced with the task of fooling Mother to speed up this “aging” process.
variety of species) with water-borne salts
Nature. But to defeat the elements and retain
(CCA — chromated copper arsenate, for
Because the sun fades all woods (includ¬ the look of fresh cut Redwood or Cedar, it’s
instance) applied under extremely high
ing those with natural resistance to wea¬ necessary to add color to the wood with a
pressure. (Wolmanized is one brand
ther) I wanted to add some color back to stain.
name.) This pressure treatment is effec¬
the wood — which meant using a stain. Semi-transparent stains contain fewer
tive, long lasting, and the protection is
Then I wanted to keep the water away pigments and come closest to approximat¬
about as good as anything Mother Nature
from the wood — that called for a water ing the natural look of freshly cut wood.
could have come up with. Solid stains, on the other hand, contain a
Some woods claim to be pressure repellent. To preserve the wood, a preser¬
vative; and finally a mildewcide to arrest higher concentration of pigment which can
treated, but are really only stained to look
the growth of mildew. rub off on clothing, shoes — and you. Solid
that way. It’s best to check for the stamp of
I found out that the oil-based semi¬ stains are not recommended for outdoor
the American Wood Preservers Bureau
transparent or solid stains sold today come furniture or decks.
(AWPB). Their stamp assures that the
with or without additional preservatives, water REPELLENCY: The oil base of pre¬
wood really has been pressure treated (and
fungicides and water repellents. servative/stains acts as a water repellent,
not just surface applied). but some manufacturers add parafin wax
There’s also another drawback to using Note: Avoid the really heavy-duty pre¬
servative compounds which contain Pen- as additional protection from water.
pressure treated woods — the treatment
tachlorophenol which is highly toxic. Many insect protection: The extractives in
leaves the wood with an unsightly greenish

WOODSM1TH
14
 Redwood and Cedar provide natural pro¬ that’s really needed because of the durabil¬ PRESSURE TREATED. None of the stains
tection against termites and other insects ity of the wood). Semi-transparent stains we tried would adequately cover the mark¬
that feed on wood. (Pressure treated wood work well on treated lumber if there aren’t ings which show up on pressure treated
is probably even more insect resistant.) any visual distractions such as mill stamps wood, but they’re not designed to do so.
The additional combination of all the chem¬ or other markings on the wood. If there The only pressure treated wood we had in
icals contained in stains and preservatives, are, sand them off, or position the boards the shop was “fresh” and hadn’t been
plus keeping the moisture out, will make so the markings are hidden. “weathered.” Even so, the stains did a
stained wood an unlikely and inhospitable When you get around to applying the fairly good job of covering the greenish
home for insects. In any case, termites and finish, make sure the wood is as dry as tint, but we agree with the manufacturers
other insects like to do their damage in possible. If you put an oil-based preserva¬ about letting pressure treated wood
dark, damp, undisturbed places, so if tive/stain on wet lumber, you’re just ask¬ weather (to fade the green) before ap¬
you’re using your outdoor furniture a lot, ing for trouble. plying stain.
you’ll disturb the critters more than they’ll How many coats of stain do you put on? CLEAN-UP. The Cuprinol Semi-trans¬
disturb the furniture. The answer depends on which product parent stains — even though they’re oil-
If termites are a real problem, you’ll you’re using. Most manufacturers recom¬ based — are water clean-up, and that’s a
want to check with an exterminator for mend putting a second coat on right after definite plus.
treatment advice tailored for your area. the first. These first treatments usually appearance. In our tests, both the Cu¬
PRESERVATIVES: Over the years, a num¬ last for about four years. You may have to prinol Semi-transparent Stain and Preser¬
ber of products have been used to protect apply interim coats sooner, depending on vative and the Olympic Weather Screen
wood from decay and rot — creosote and the climate and amount of wear and tear (both of these products contain water re¬
other tars, for instance. Obviously they your furniture is subjected to. pellents) left more pigment on the surface
aren’t suitable for a picnic table, bench, or of the wood than did the Olympic Semi¬
WHAT WE USED
chairs. Other preservative elements such transparent linseed oil stains (which don’t
as Pentachlorophenol are toxic and should We tried out seven different varieties of have an additional water repellent or as
be avoided. stain/preservatives manufactured by many preservatives).
The oils in oil-based stains also act as Olympic Stain and the Darworth Company COVERAGE. A gallon will more than co¬
preservatives, but some manufacturers (Cuprinol) only to end up using Olympic ver all the projects we built — even apply¬
add TBTO (Tributyltin Oxide), a preserva¬ Wood Preservative (Clear) because we li¬ ing two coats. The Olympic Semi¬
tive which is non-toxic after it has dried ked the way the picnic table, chairs and transparent linseed oil stain came in
and “bonded” to the wood. benches looked in the photographs. quarts; the rest you have to buy in gallons.
fungicides: Protective stains on the Naturally, it’s always a matter of per¬ COLORS. The manufacturers of both
market today often contain chemicals to sonal opinion when it comes to selecting products recommend testing their stains
make the wood resistant to mildew. just the “light” finish. on a sample of wood beforehand. At the
Folmet and Chlorophcdonil are fungi¬ Both the Olympic and Cuprinol stains local lumber yard where we purchased the
cides incorporated in some preservative/ worked well on samples of Redwood and stains we used, they had some samples
stains, but the manufacturers point out Cedar. Both companies feature colors (kind of like paint swatches, only on wood)
that the chemicals are there only to keep which approximate the natural color of of different stains applied to different
mildew out after application. So if there’s Redwood and Cedar; both companies make woods. These swatches didn’t produce an
mildew on the wood at the time of applica¬ oil-based stains with preservatives in exact match with the finished product, but
tion it’s likely to grow through the coating them. they were pretty close.
of stain applied over it. If mildew is pres¬ Here’s what we tried: WATER REPELLENCY. The difference be¬
ent, remove it by scrubbing the wood with tween the stain/preservatives with water
a solution of household bleach and water • OLYMPIC SEMI-TRANSPARENT LINSEED OIL
repellents added and the “plain” stains
before applying the stain. Redwood, #704 was really obvious — especially when we
Cedar Natural Tone, #716 dripped water on the samples. If you want
APPLYING THE STAIN/PRESERVATIVE Redwood Natural Tone, #717 extra protection against water — buy one
There’s a minor “Catch 22” to applying of the products with a water repellent
• OLYMPIC WEATHER SCREEN
oil-based preservative/stains: They pene¬ added.
Cedar Natural Tone, #716
trate the surface of rough wood better than And the last thing we did before setting
the surface of smooth wood. But to elimi¬ • OLYMPIC CLEAR WOOD PRESERVATIVE the furniture outside was to give it a liberal
nate unfortunate surprises (splinters), the coating of clear furniture wax — nothing
furniture needs to be sanded smooth. • CUPRINOL SEMI-TRANSPARENT STAIN AND like a little “extra” protection.
What to do? WOOD PRESERVATIVE, WATER CLEAN UP
There are two solutions: Go ahead and New Cedar, #W67 WHERE TO BUY PRESERVATIVE/STAINS
apply the finish to the smooth wood, and Sierra Redwood, #W21 The preservative/stains we used are gener¬
re-apply it more frequently as time and the ally available throughout the country. In
elements begin to weather the wood. Or TEST RESULTS
the case of Olympic stains, (Olympic Stain,
you can let the furniture weather naturally Here are some of our general comments Bellevue, WA 98004) the quickest way to
outside for a couple of weeks — maybe about these products. locate a dealer is by looking in the Yellow
even a month or two — to open up the mixing. The Olympic Semi-transparent Pages under Paint.
pores so the wood will accept the finish linseed oil stains were more complicated to Cuprinol products (The Cuprinol Group,
better. mix before using. The instructions call for Cleveland, OH 44115) are sold in all 50
There’s little chance that the relatively pouring off the oils, and then gradually states. If you can’t find a supplier, call
few weeks of untreated weathering will adding them back as you stir up the pig¬ Cuprinol (800-424-5837) and ask for the
adversely affect the color of the wood. ments. Olympic’s Weather Screen and name of a distributor near you. A second call
Note: With pressure treated wood, it’s Clear Wood Preservative, and the Cu¬ to that distributor will get you the name of
especially important to let it weather for a prinol Semi-transparent stain/preserva¬ a local retail outlet for Cuprinol.
while before applying a stain (which is all tives were less complicated to mix.

WOODSMITH 15
 Tools of the Trade
A REVIEW OF CARBIDE-TIPPED SAW BLADES
I can still remember the day I pering the steel (alternate
purchased my first table saw (a heating and cooling). The care
dream come true). I was so ex¬ taken in this procedure can
cited I could hardly stand it. make the difference between a
After making a cut on the high quality saw blade, or just
closest piece of wood, I exam¬ a round piece of steel.
ined the piece expecting to find On higher quality blades, the
the perfect edge. Boy was I plate is often tempered twice to
surprised! The finish was so achieve a hardness ranging
poor I would have been better from C-42 to C-46 on the Rock¬
off using a hand saw. well C hardness scale. On low¬
I double checked every pos¬ er quality blades, the plate is
sible adjustment on the table sometimes made with cold-
saw, only to discover that the rolled steel that’s not tempered
culprit was the blade, not the to the correct hardness, or not
saw. So I decided to stretch my tempered at all.
already taxed budget, and buy The quality of the tempering-
process can not be detected
a good saw blade.
After listening to a sales just by looking at a blade.
pitch on the virtues of using However, there is a way to
carbide-tipped blades, I de¬ roughly determine the quality
scribed to the salesperson the of the steel used in the plate.
type of cutting I would be doing Simply grasp the blade with
most often so I’d be sure to get both hands, and try to bend the
the right blade. “No problem,” plate by applying moderate
he said, “here’s the saw blade for you.” vantages of a carbide-tipped blade. That pressure with your thumbs near the center
“Yes siree bob, that sure looks like a nice ability results from the extreme hardness of the blade. If the blade has been tem¬
blade,” I thought. of the tungsten carbide. pered correctly (in the range of C-42 to
So much for looks. I found out (too late) QUALITY OF THE CUT. The quality of cut C-46), the plate will be rigid enough to
that the blade was designed for a totally produced by a saw blade relates directly to resist any attempt at bending.
the shai'pness of the tips. This is where plate tolerances. The plate tol¬
different purpose than I wanted. The end
result was that I had wasted $50 on a blade carbide-tipped blades can make a big dif¬ erance, or the “runout” of the saw blade is
which now hangs on the wall collecting ference, since they seem to stay sharp one of the key tests of quality for any
sawdust rather than making it. forever. individual blade. Plate tolerance is import¬
I decided there had to be better sources Okay, so carbide-tipped blades outshine ant because it directly influences the qual¬
of information on how to choose the correct steel blades in every aspect, right? Well ity of the grinding on the teeth. If a blade
saw blade, but after looking, I really not quite. The most obvious drawback to wobbles from side to side, it’s impossible to
couldn’t find one. That’s when I decided to carbide-tipped blades is their initial cost — grind the teeth precisely.
contact some professionals: Carlo Vend- usually $35 to $170. Whereas steel blades Plate tolerance also becomes a quality
itto, Executive Vice President of Freud, run $5 to $20. factor because of the effect of harmonics,
Bob Pirrone of Forrest Manufacturing Co. But comparing only the initial costs can or high speed “flutter.” This phenonemon
(both carbide-tipped saw blade manu¬ be deceiving. Carbide-tipped blades re¬ produces vibrations in a blade running at
facturers), Paul Naylor, President of Keo quire sharpening less often than steel full speed that can transform a .005" plate
Saw (a professional sharpening service), blades. So, in the long run, the cost of a tolerance into a .010 to .015" wobble.
and two metalurgists. I figured if anyone carbide-tipped blade is often no more than Most high quality blades have plate
could tell me how to both determine the a steel blade when you figure in the cost of tolerances of less than .003", and there
quality of a saw blade, and how to choose repeated sharpening. are a few blades on the market that have
plate tolerances below .001". These new
one, they could. QUALITY VARIATIONS blades run extremely smooth — and also
WHY CARBIDE-TIPPED? very quiet.
Once you’ve decided to take the plunge and
Saw blades fall into two general cat¬ buy a carbide-tipped blade, the first thing To determine a blade’s plate tolerance,
egories: steel saw blades, and carbide- you’re faced with is determining the gen¬ check the promotional literature on the
tipped saw blades. The only difference be¬ eral quality of the blade . . . while it’s blade. Usually, if the blade is manufac¬
tween the two is that carbide-tipped sitting on a store shelf. Although many of tured as a high quality product, the com¬
blades have small pieces of tungsten car¬ the quality controls taken during the pany will tout its demanding tolerances.
manufacturing process can’t be seen, luck¬ MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED RPM. The
bide brazed to the steel body to form the
cutting edges. The effect this has on per¬ ily there are a few tell-tale signs that indi¬ maximum RPM rating is important because
cate the level of workmanship. it defines the maximum speed at which
formance is dramatic.
RETAINING AN EDGE. Retaining an edge the plate. When a saw blade is born, it each blade can be operated safely, without
longer than a steel blade (usually at least starts out as a circular piece of very soft succumbing to the centrifugal forces that
10 times longer) is one of the biggest ad steel. This steel plate is hardened by tem¬ I are created within the spinning blade.

WOODSMITH
16
 To get a picture of the amount of
destructive force on a blade, visualize the
outer rim on a 10" blade traveling ap¬
proximately 100 mph ... in a 10" circle.
Then imagine introducing this spinning
steel blade to a piece of hard maple — it’s
really surprising that it doesn’t fly apart
immediately.
Most blades have the maximum rpm
rating stamped on the plate, or listed in the
product literature that comes with the
blade. On higher quality blades, the max¬
imum ratings will be 7000 RPM, or even
higher. And on a lower quality blade, this
rating can be as low as 3-4000 RPM — which
is below the speed of some 10" table saws.
expansion slots. Most blades have
“expansion slots” cut in the body of the
blade, running from the rim toward the
arbor hole. The purpose of the expansion
HAND brazed. Hand brazing can produce MACHINE BRAZING. Consistent joint with¬
slots is to give the blade some “room” to
pin holes due to inconsistent heating. out pinholes due to total heat control.
expand as it heats up during use. A blade
with no expansion slots is more susceptible
to warping as it heats up. As a general
rule, the more expansion slots (8 slots are
about the maximum on a 10" blade), the
higher the quality of the blade.
gullets. The main purpose of a gullet is
to provide clearance for the chips being
removed. Even though their purpose is
simple, everyone seems to have their own
opinion on what shape to use.
The only gullets that should be avoided
are ones with sharp, or square corners.
These sharp points can actually cause the
blade to crack (See Talking Shop, Wood-
smith No. 26), by concentrating stress
at a single point. And on top of that, they
also inhibit chips from being projected
from the blade, which causes the blade to
clog easily.
THE TUNGSTEN carbide. And finally we
get to the whole point of the saw blade coarse. Grinding marks indicate only a fine. Shinny, mirror-like finish designates
— the carbide tips. There arc more than coarse wheel was used to sharpen the tips. sharpness obtained by very fine grinding.
30 different grades of tungsten carbide
used to make cutting tips for saw blades, produces the best bond between the car¬ THE TOOTH grinding. How well the car¬
each grade with its own characteristics. bide tip and the blade. The answer seems bide tips are ground is another way to
Trying to determine the quality differ¬ to depend on who you’re talking to. So I check overall quality of a carbide-tipped
ences between the different grades is contacted an (impartial) engineer special¬ saw blade. To achieve the highest level of
really more of a job for a metalurgist, than izing in metalurgy, and found that either quality, the tips should be ground with two
for a woodworker. method can produce a very secure bond, if different grades of diamond wheels (dia¬
The most apparent difference between done properly. monds are about the only material that can
the carbide tips on different saw blades is Evidently, the biggest danger is in be used to grind tungsten carbide).
their size. The size of the carbide tip can overheating the blade and destroying the The first, or roughing-out pass is made
range from %2" to 13/32" long, and Vie" to temper. Overheating can also cause gas with a coarse (180-grit) diamond wheel.
about %2" thick. Larger tips simply extend pores, or pin holes in the brazing com¬ Then a second pass is made using a fin¬
the life of a blade by extending the number pound. Usually these pores are only on the ishing (400-grit or finer) diamond wheel.
of sharpenings that can be performed be¬ very surface of the alloy, but occasionally To determine whether or not a blade has
fore the tips wear out. they do penetrate further into the joint, been finish ground, check the top, face,
BRAZING THE CARBIDE TIPS. The process weakening the bond. and sides of the carbide tips for a shiny,
of brazing (high temperature soldering) Naturally, temperature can be more ac¬ mirror-like smoothness. (Using a small
the tips to the steel is one of the more curately controlled with automatic ma¬ hand lens can be a big help in seeing the
critical aspects in the construction of a chinery than with a hand torch. This is differences.)
carbide-tipped blade. Two methods are supported by the fact that the only pin¬ If the tips show any signs of grinding-
commonly used to braze tungsten carbide holes we found were on a blade which was marks, it means the manufacturer hasn’t
to steel: machine induction brazing, and brazed by hand. But as long as the tips taken the time to use the very fine diamond
hand brazing with an acetylene torch. don’t actually fall off, the brazing is doing wheel on the final pass — and that the
There’s a questions about which method its job. blade isn’t as sharp as it could be.

WOODSMITH
17
 beveled to one side of the blade or the
CHOOSING A BLADE other, so each tooth cuts only one side of
Beyond the quality of the saw blade, you’ll the kerf.
also need a blade specifically designed to Using the ATB profile, each tooth is
achieve the highest quality results for the removing only very small chips. This is
type of cutting being performed. To why an ATB profile produces such a high
achieve the highest quality results while quality finish, and why it’s the most com¬
ripping, you need a blade that’s designed mon profile for circular saw blades. ATB is
specifically for ripping. Crosscutting is the found on rip, crosscut, and combination
same — only a true crosscut blade can blades, and is also common on finish blades FLAT TOP
produce the highest quality results. In that use high numbers of teeth to produce This style of tooth uses only
other words, there’s no such thing as a an extremely high quality finish. one grinding profile — flat
universal saw blade for making the perfect One drawback to this design is that it across the top, and produces a
cut every time on everything. forms an inverted V, when cutting grooves flat bottomed kerf.
Finding a saw blade that’s designed to and dados (a flat top profile produces a flat
match the type of cutting you do most often bottom). The very tip of the cutting edge
is probably the most important part of on an ATB profile dulls quicker than most
choosing a blade. The first step is to know other blades because this is the area that
how the different variables are used to does most of the cutting.
fine-tune carbide-tipped blades to perform triple chip. A triple chip tooth config¬
different cutting actions. uration uses two different tooth profiles,
The most common variables are: in¬ one for the “chipper” tooth, and another
dividual tooth configurations, number of for the raker tooth. The chipper tooth
teeth, and the hook angle of each tooth. looks like a tooth ground to a flat top profile
Understanding the way these three fac¬ with both outside corners chamfered off.
tors work together de-mystifies the type of The purpose of the chipper tooth is to
cutting a blade is designed for, and what “score” the material in the center and ALTERNATE TOP BEVEL
you can expect of it. along both edges of the kerf. Then the flat
This profile produces a fine fin¬
top raker tooth follows through and cleans
TOOTH CONFIGURATIONS ish (and a kerf in the shape of a
everything up. V), and can be used on any
Choosing the correct tooth configuration is This tooth configuration is normally
style of blade.
important because it’s what determines used on saw blades designed for very high
how, and how well the teeth actually re¬ quality finish, and are used to cut lami¬
move material. The tooth configuration is nated counter tops, particle board, plastic
nothing more than a profile ground on the laminates.
top surface of the carbide tips. The other combination. Finally, there’s a com¬
two surfaces (the sides and the face) of bination tooth configuration that’s really
each carbide tip are usually kept flat, or nothing more than a hybrid of the alternate
slightly tapered. top bevel profile, and the flat top profile.
There are four common profiles used in It’s usually used on blades that are de¬
grinding the tips of circular saw blade signed to both rip, and crosscut hardwoods
teeth: flat top, alternate top bevel (ATB), and plywoods.
triple chip, and a combination profile. Each Normally the teeth on a combination
of these profiles has its own personality, blade are grouped together in sections of TRIPLE CHIP
including — pardon the pun — some good five teeth — four are ATB, followed by a
The triple chip profile incor¬
and bad points. flat top raker tooth to speed up removal of porates two styles of teeth, a
flat top. On a flat top tooth configura¬ the material during ripping operations.
beveled chipper, and a flat
tion, the top of each individual tooth is The combination of both profiles helps
topped raker tooth.
ground square, perpendicular to the sides keep the blade from becoming clogged
of the blade. with chips, yet keeps the high quality of
This style of grinding offers two distinct finish.
advantages. First, it provides the most Another aspect of the combination blade
support for the cutting edge of the tooth, that helps keep the rate of feed fairly high
since the entire width of the tip is being for ripping is the large gullets in front of
used. Second, the cutting edge will last the raker tooth. This gullet just helps clear
longer because the teeth wear out evenly out the chips a little quicker.
along the entire width, not just on one TOTAL NUMBER OF TEETH
point.
The most common drawback to using a The total number of teeth can be the one
saw blade with a flat top profile is the finish variable that has the most noticeable effect
it produces. The blade takes bites out of on the cutting action of a carbide-tipped
the board that are as wide as the entire saw blade.
width of the kerf. Because the chips being As the number of teeth on a saw blade
removed are large, they have a tendency increases, the distance between teeth is
to tear out, leaving a rough surface. decreased. This reduces the size of the
ALTERNATE TOP BEVEL. The alternate gullets of the blade and makes chip ejection
top bevel (ATB) profile is almost self ex¬ from the kerf more difficult. A blade with a
planatory: the tops of alternating teeth are high number of teeth also requires more

18 WOODSMITH
 power to operate, more feed pressure, and
a slower rate of feed. CROSSCUT BLADES
Under ideal situations, only three teeth The main differences between a crosscut
should be cutting at one time. One should blade and a rip blade are the number of
be leaving the piece, one cutting in the teeth, the hook angle, and the tooth con¬
center, and one just entering the piece. To figurations. In other words, they’re com¬
maintain this optimum cutting situation, pletely different.
the total number of teeth should decrease Crosscut blades are usually used for ob¬
as the thickness of the material increases. taining a high quality finish when doing
cut-off work. To produce a higher quality
HOOK ANGLES
finish, cut-off blades use a higher number
The hook angle on each tooth is another of teeth (40 plus) in comparison to a rip
key factor in determining the charac¬ blade (24 or less).
teristics of a saw blade. The hook angle is If this many teeth were used on a rip
nothing more than the amount of forward blade, they would create an instant clog¬
lean each tooth has. ging problem. But when used on a crosscut
Basically, the more hook angle a blade blade, there are several reasons why they
has, the more pull, or grab the blade will create no problems at all.
have on the workpiece. One effect of this First of all, the hook angle on a crosscut
pulling action is that the rate of feed tends blade is usually kept within 0° - 7°. By
to be faster whenever the hook angle is keeping the hook angle in this range, the
increased. amount of grabbing is kept to a minimum,
Reducing the hook angle also reduces or even completely eliminated (a necessity
both the amount of grab the blade exhibits, for use on the radial arm saw). The real
and the rate of feed. Cutoff saw blades are advantage to this is the total control it
a good example of when a smaller hook gives over the rate of feed.
angle would be used to prevent the blade Most material being trimmed with a
from grabbing, or “running” through the crosscut blade is fairly narrow. This helps
piece being cut. eliminate any problems associated with
In fact, as the hook angle approaches, using a higher number of teeth because the
and even exceeds 0° (producing a nega¬ blade usually isn’t in the wood long enough
tive hook angle — or when the teeth lean for the chips to clog up the smaller gullets
backwards), the blade exhibits no grab¬ between the teeth.
bing effect at all. This is extremely import¬ Using a different tooth configuration
ant when cutting metals, where total con¬ also helps a crosscut saw blade produce a
trol over the rate of feed is needed. finer finish than a rip blade. The most
common profile is the Alternate Top Bevel
RIP BLADES
for all-purpose crosscutting of solid wood.
When choosing a blade for ripping, the Another profile that’s usually used for
highest concern is usually with the rate of crosscutting plastic laminates, or par¬
feed, and not the quality of the finish. To ticleboard is a Triple Chip profile.
provide a rip blade with the highest rate of
feed, several different aspects are COMBINATION BLADES
addressed. Obtaining perfection on every cut is im¬
First, the hook angle on each tooth is possible with any one blade. But there is a
increased to about 20° to help pull the type of blade that can achieve a fairly high
workpiece into the blade. Unfortunately, level of quality over a wide range of cuts
this extreme forward lean also increases . . . combination blades.
the impact on each tooth during the cutting There are two distinct characteristics
process. that make combination blades unique.
To prevent the carbide from breaking First of all, combination blades use a
under this added load, many manufac¬ hybrid tooth configuration that’s simply
COMBINATION BLADE
turers use a slightly softer carbide on their called a “combination” profile. This profile
rip blades (Freud uses a softer C-2 grade, allows the blade to either crosscut or rip
rather than their normal C-4, which is without any major drawbacks to either
harder and more brittle). A flat top tooth operation.
configuration is also the most popular be¬ The second major distinction of a com¬
cause it provides the maximum support for bination blade is the large gullet in front of
the tip. the raker tooth. This oversized gullet helps
Second, to prevent the high rate of feed improve chip removal during rip opera¬
from overloading the blade with wood tions, thus increasing the rate of feed.
chips, the number of teeth, are kept to a Combination blades are usually avail¬
minimum. In fact, some people believe able with 40 to 60 teeth. Naturally, the
that when it comes to a rip blade, the higher tooth count will create more resist¬
number of teeth is more important than ance while ripping, and the rate of feed will
the tooth configuration. The maximum be slower. But the finish achieved while
number of teeth on a 10" rip blade is com¬ crosscutting will be improved as the num¬
monly considered to be 24 teeth. ber of teeth increases.

WOODSMITH 19
 SEARS 40-TOOTH COMBINATION BLADE. finish is needed, as for glue joints. Used for
SPECIFICS The Sears 40-tooth combination blade uses ripping, any crosscut blade will have a
At this point, all of this information is an ATB tooth configuration, as opposed to very slow rate of feed, and produce a very
basically just a lot of talk. The true test of the combination profile of the Freud fine finish. In fact, the quality of the finish
the quality of a blade is getting it in the blades. produced by the 60-tooth Freud blade was
shop, and making some sawdust. So I pur¬ One effect of using an ATB tooth profile the highest of any of the standard blades I
chased a variety of carbide-tipped blades on the Sears blade is that the rate of feed is tested. The 72-tooth Sears blade, on the
and put them through the Woodsmith shop much slower. This is due to the lack of any other hand, was really no better than the
large gullets, which are part of the “com¬ Freud 40-tooth combination blade.
test.
bination” tooth configuration. CONCLUSIONS. From the results of the
I separated the blades being tested into
two categories: standard carbide-tipped But what really surprised me was how tests between the Freud and the Sears
saw blades, and the new generation of the Sears blade compared to the Freud blades, it appears that they’re about equal
“super” carbide-tipped blades. For testing blade when ripping hardwood and in the quality of their performance, with
the standard blades, I purchased two com¬ plywood. The quality of cut produced by the Freud blade slightly in front. But when
monly available and reasonably priced the ATB profile Sears blade was definitely you factor in the quality of the blade, the
brands: Sears and Freud. lower than the Freud blade. And consider¬ Freud blade comes out on top by a signifi¬
The new “super” carbide-tipped blades I ing the only real difference between the cant margin.
tested were the Mr. Sawdust Blade man¬ tooth configurations on these two blades is RIP BLADES
ufactured by Forrest Manufacturing the addition of a raker tooth on the Freud
($162), and a Teflon coated, “anti-grip” blades, the overall quality of the Sears Blades for ripping are generally limited to
cut-off blade ($110) manufactured by blade becomes suspect. no more than 24 teeth (for a 10" blade). Of
On the other hand, the crosscutting the blades I tested, only one fits this mold
Freud.
The chart on page 21 gives the results of quality of the ATB profile on the Sears — a Freud 24-tooth rip blade. The second
the quality tests on the blades tested. As blade was equivalent to the 40-tooth Freud blade I tested was a 30-tooth Sears model.
for our opinions and recommendations, blade, and it actually had less chipout on The reason this blade was included in the
the surface of the piece being cut. test, even though it had more than 24
here goes ....
The standard saw blades can be divided CONCLUSIONS. The biggest advantage to teeth, is because it’s the blade Sears
into three categories: Rip blades, Crosscut any combination blade is its ability to both recommends for ripping.
rip and crosscut. But they also have a FREUD 24-TOOTH RIPPING BLADE. It only
blades, and Combination blades. In each
category, several blades were tested. In reputation of being a jack of all trades . . . took one cut to realize that this blade was
some cases, the blades being tested were and master of none. genuinely designed for ripping. The first
technically identical, and in others, the Of the three combination blades tested, thing that’s noticed is the fast rate of feed.
blades were slightly different. I felt the 50-tooth Freud combination was This was somewhat expected, considering
the best all-round blade. Although the rate the 20° hook angle on the blade.
COMBINATION BLADES of feed is slightly slower when ripping, the The quality of the cut produced by the
The three combination blades I tested improved quality of the edge produced flat top tooth configuration on the Freud
were: a 40-tooth Sears blade that uses an makes this blade the closest to a “do all” blade wasn’t nearly as poor as I had been
ATB profile, and 40- and 50-tooth Freud blade of any I tested. led to expect. In fact, when cutting hard¬
blades that use the combination profile. wood, the flat top profile produced an edge
CROSSCUT BLADES almost as clean as the 40-tooth combination
THE FREUD COMBINATION BLADES. Both
the 40- and 50-tooth Freud combination The crosscut blades I tested included a blade.
blades have four ATB teeth and one raker Sears 72-tooth ATB blade and a Freud Cutting plywood was another story.
tooth, which is the typical “combination” 60-tooth Triple Chip blade. Regardless of the rate of feed, when cut¬
tooth configuration. The only difference When crosscutting hardwood, the ATB ting across the grain of the face veneer,
between the two blades is the number of profile on the Sears blade produced a fair tearout on the bottom was unacceptable
teeth — the 40-tooth being the most com¬ amount of chipout on the top face of the for anything except very rough work.
piece, and a very large amount on the back SEARS 30-TOOTH RIP BLADE. After using
monly recommended.
Ripping was one operation where the edge. The Triple Chip profile of the Freud the Freud rip blade, I was anxious to give
combination profile performed better than blade also produced a small amount of chip¬ the Sears blade a try, especially since the
a rip blade in one aspect, and worse in ping on the top face, but there was no¬ tooth configuration on both blades was
another. The combination profile requires where near the amount of chipout on the identical. Unfortunately, as soon as I made
a slower rate of feed, but in the process, it back edge compared to the Sears blade. As a cut, my excitement abated. The finish
also produced a considerably improved far as the quality of the cut, both blades produced by the 30-tooth Sears rip blade
produced an extremely smooth finish, and was, without a doubt, inferior to the finish
finish.
As expected, the extra 10 teeth on the neither seemed better than the other. obtained with the Freud blade.
50-tooth blade slowed the rate of feed even When both blades were used for cutting And when you consider that the Sears
more than the 40-tooth model, but it also plywood, the overall performance of the blade has 30 teeth, rather than 24 on the
produced an even higher quality finish. In ATB profile on the Sears blade came out on Freud blade, it was hard to understand
fact the 50-tooth version produced a finish top, although the quality of the cut still how there could be this much deterioration
that I considered good enough for edge wasn’t up to the level produced by the in quality.
Freud 50-tooth combination blade. When CONCLUSIONS. There really was a wide
gluing (without being run through a
the Freud 60-tooth Triple Chip blade was range of quality difference in the finish
jointer).
On plywood, the 40-tooth blade pro¬ used for cutting plywood, it produced an produced by the two blades. The Freud
duced more chipout on the face and the excessive amount of chipout on the bottom blade not only produced a better finish, it
back edge than the 50-tooth blade. Also, face. also cut at a faster rate. Although some of
the 40-tooth blade produced a rougher cut, Even though both blades are designed the discrepancy in the rate of feed can be
while the 50-tooth blade produced an ex¬ for crosscutting, they can be used for final attributed to the higher number of teeth,
ripping of stock when an extremely fine the deterioration of the quality in the finish
tremely high quality finish.

20 Woodsmith
can only be attributed to the quality of the is only equivalent to about a 40-tooth com¬ produced the finest finish of all the blades I
blades themselves. bination blade. tested. Freud not only manufactures this
By itself, the results of this test could But one of the most surprising aspects of blade to higher tolerances (plate tolerance
possibly be dismissed as a fluke. But when the Forrest blade is its ability to rip with of less than .001") than their standard
they’re combined with the problems found a rate of feed nearly equal to that of blades, they’ve also improved on the stan¬
with the other Sears blades I tested, I a 40-tooth combination blade. The method dard tooth configuration (ATB) by adding
think a fairly clear picture can be drawn on Forrest uses to accomplish this feat is, some secondary bevels. Then they coated
the quality, or lack of it, in the Sears according to them, a trade secret and can¬ the plate with a layer of Teflon to reduce
blades. not be disclosed. But they did reveal that the friction between the blade and the
On the other hand, the Freud blades it has a lot to do with their special adap¬ wood. (The icing on the cake.)
continually performed at, or above the pre¬ tion to the standard Triple Chip tooth When crosscutting, the Freud blade pro¬
dicted norms in all three categories. And configuration. duced a finish equalled only by the finish
when the heavily discounted prices of the What isn’t a secret is the cost of their the Forrest blade with the help of the 6"
Freud blades are taken into consideration, blade. At $162, it’s by far the most expen¬ dampener. And that’s saying a lot. (The
it becomes clear to me that they not only sive blade on the retail market. But the common reaction around our office was “I
represent higher quality, but they also key question is whether or not it’s worth can’t believe this cut is straight off the
represent a better value in the long run. the cost. saw.”)
In all honesty, for crosscutting, the Mr. Because I was so impressed with the
THE "SUPER" BLADES
Sawdust blade produces the finest finish finish the Freud blade produced when
I’ve grouped two different blades under you could ever want. And when you add crosscutting, I decided to try it at ripping
this classification because they’ve been the optional 6" dampener (it’s just a piece of (although with 80 teeth, it’s really de¬
manufactured with exacting standards ex¬ very flat steel that fits between the blade signed only for crosscutting). The finish it
ceeding the industry norms, or they have and the outside collar to help stabilize the produced during ripping was of better
incorporated a new type of technology in blade), the results are incredibly good. quality than the Freud 50-tooth combina¬
their design. When crosscutting oak, the finish is as tion blade.
MR. SAWDUST. The Mr. Sawdust Signa¬ smooth as glass. It’s as close to perfection Finally I tried cutting some plywood,
ture line saw blade manufactured by For¬ as one can get, without lying. and you guessed it, the Freud blade pro¬
rest Manufacturing is advertised as “the Is it worth an extra $100 when compared duced the finest finish again (the Forrest
only saw blade you’ll ever need.” That’s a to some of the standard blades? To answer blade produced a small amount of tear out
strong claim. that, perhaps another question should be on the bottom edges).
One of the reasons the people at Forrest asked first. How good is good enough when
boast about their blade with such zeal is WHICH BLADE TO BUY?
it comes to the quality of the finish?
that it’s manufactured to very specific tol¬ In my opinion, once you’ve reached a If I were trying to choose a carbide-tipped
erances (its plate tolerance is within .001"). certain point, any further improvement in blade that would come closest to “doing it
Then to top it off, they’ve put an excep¬ the quality of finish is acacemic, and all”, without a doubt, I’d choose the
tional edge on the carbide tips using a usually too expensive to justify. 50-tooth Freud combination blade. Then to
super-fine 600-grit diamond wheel. Whether this blade, or any other compliment this blade, the next blade I’d
All in all, the blade is the finest example “super” blade crosses the line and enters purchase is a 24-tooth rip blade, and finally
of quality we’ve seen, with one exception the never never land of perfection is purely a 60 to 72-tooth cutoff blade.
— the pin holes in the brazing alloy. personal opinion. My opinion is that this As far as the Super blades, not only is
According to Forrest, this isn’t a problem. blade produces the finish I’ve been search¬ the Freud Anti-grip blade cheaper, but it
But according to everyone else, the pin ing for, but my pocket book says “you’ve also produces a finer cut than the Mr.
holes shouldn’t be there . . . especially on a got to be kidding.” Sawdust blade. But honestly, the only
$160 saw blade. FREUD anti-grip BLADE. After testing way I could consider purchasing either
Because of the high number of teeth, the Forrest saw blade, I felt that using any super blade would be if I were doing an
this blade performs at its best when used other blade would be a let-down. I was awful lot of cut-off work, or had the money
as a cutoff blade. But it can also be used as surprised again. to burn. Otherwise, I’d just use the stan¬
a rip blade, although the quality of the cut Freud’s new Teflon-coated cut-off blade dard blades and pocket the difference.

RIP BLADES CROSSCUT BLADES COMBINATION BLADES SUPER BLADES

10 " BLADE
COMPARISONS SEARS FREUD SEARS FREUD SEARS FREUD FORREST FREUD
9 GT 32012 LM72M 9 GT 32556 LU82M 9 GT 3255 LU84M Mr. Sawdust LU85M
Retail Price $29.99 $64.85 $54.89 $86.40 $39.99 $70.99 $162.00 $110.88
# of Teeth 30 24 72 60 ' 40 40 60 80
Carbide Quality N/A C2 N/A C4 N/A C4 N/A C4
Plate Hardness stiff stiff stiff stiff stiff stiff stiff stiff
Carbide Size (length) %2" ,S/32" y32" 13/32" %2"
%2" ,2/32" %2"
Tip Brazing good excel good excel good excel good excel
Tip Grinding rough smooth rough smooth rough smooth v. smooth smooth
Runout Tolerances N/A .003" N/A .003" N/A .003" .001" .001"
Maximum RPM 5500 7000 5500 7000 5500 7000 N/A 7000
# of Expansion Slots 0 4 3 6 4 uses gullets 4 8

WOODSMITH 21
 Joinery* Half Laps
MAKING ENDS MEET
Half laps are easy to cut. . . at least they the thickness of the stock. Then make a cut TWO CUT METHOD
appear that way on the surface. But the at the end of a test piece. Flip the scrap
trick to making a good, sturdy half lap is to over and make another pass right below The second method for cutting a half lap
the first one, see Fig. 1. involves making two cuts — one to estab¬
cut it so the joining halves are smooth
There should be a thin sliver of wood lish the shoulder, and the second to trim off
enough to provide good gluing surfaces.
that the blade didn’t cut. Raise the blade the cheek. This method produces a very
Also, you need to take enough time on the
initial set-up to make sure each half of the just a touch, and make the same two cuts clean joint, ready for gluing.
again. Then repeat this procedure, until SHOULDER CUT. The first step in this
joint is truly one-half the thickness of the
the sliver is skimmed off. two-cut method is to make a cut at the
stock.
SET fence. Once the height of the blade shoulder line. Set the height of the blade
As far as actually cutting the joint is
is set, use the fence as a stop for the final for the shoulder cut (as described in the
concerned, there are two ways to go about
cut at the shoulder line. Rather than mea¬ multiple cut method, above), and use the
it: 1) remove the waste by making multiple
suring this distance, I use the second board fence as a stop for the shoulder line, see
passes over the blade, or 2) make two
to position the fence for the shoulder cut on Fig. 1. When the saw is set up, go ahead
individual cuts — one cut at the shoulder
the first board, see Fig. 2. Hold the right and make the shoulder cuts on all pieces,
and the second cut to form the cheek.
edge of the second board against the fence, see Fig. 4.
MULTIPLE-PASS METHOD and adjust the setting until the left edge is FACE CUT. After the shoulder cuts are
flush with the outside edge of the blade. made, the workpiece must be stood on end
One of the easiest ways to cut a half lap is to
make multiple passes over the blade. With clean OFF WASTE. Now it’s just a matter to make the face cut. To do this, I use a
of making multiple passes to clean off the shop-made jig, see Fig. 6. (The directions
this method, only one set-up is needed.
waste. Start at the end of the piece and for making this jig are given in Woodsmith
However, there is a drawback — the finish
on the cheek of the joint is not as good as work toward the shoulder. No. 24.)
Although this method is relatively Mount a test piece in the jig and adjust
the two-cut method.
CHOICE OF blades. Although any saw quick, it does leave the face of the joint a the jig so the blade cuts as close to the
little rough. If a cut-off or combination center of the board as you can get it. Make
blade can be used to make this cut, a rip
blade will produce a better surface because blade is used to make the cuts, the surface a trial cut to see if the cheek is aligned with
can be smoothed by sliding the workpiece the bottom of the kerf of the shoulder cut,
it makes a flat-bottomed cut. A dado blade
can also be used but some clean-up may be back and forth over the highest point of the see Fig. 5.
blade, see Fig. 3. Once the cut is truly cutting half-way,
needed to smooth the cheeks.
SET BLADE HEIGHT. To set up this cut, If a rip blade or dado blade was used, a raise the blade to the top of the kerf of the
little touch-up with a sharp chisel might be shoulder cut, and trim off the waste on the
first set the height of the blade. Raise the
blade to just a smidgen less than one-half needed. face of the joint.

MULTIPLE PASS METHOD

TWO-CUT METHOD

WOODSMITH
22
 Talking Shop
AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS
GLUING UP NARROW BOARDS learn more about the history of antique turning stock). The only drawback is that
woodworking tools will find this newslet¬ the PEG must be in a heated vat, and the
I have a question that I hope you can ter very helpful. wood must be totally saturated with
answer. Whenever Pm edge gluing a large The issue we received featured articles heated PEG. This whole process can some¬
panel from strips of solid stock, I never on modern toolmakers, and “Tid-Bits of times take several months, depending on
know what width to cut the strips. Useful Knowledge for Tool Collectors,” a the wood and its thickness.
Are the strips cut to different widths for classified ad section for antique tools, and a For more information about using PEG,
the different species, like oak, walnut, ash, listing of old original tool catalogs still in including how to make a heated vat, time
or maple? And are there any rules of print. schedules, and sources, I’d suggest obtain¬
thumb you follow when gluing up large Then just to toy with their readers, ing a copy of Working Green Wood With
panels? there’s a column called “Whatsit?” This PEG, by Patrick Spielman. See the Sources
column describes a unique old tool whose page at the back of this issue for a list of
Bill Powell identity and purpose seem to have eluded mail-order sources that cany this book.
Denver, Colorado all the experts. The hope is that a reader
may have crossed paths with the unknown CUTTING DIAGRAMS
Theoretically, the widths of the strips tool before. When you show the dimensions of mate¬
should vary according to the species of For more information on obtaining a sub¬ rial in the cutting diagrams for each proj¬
wood. The reason for this is that under the scription to the Fine Tool Journal contact: ect, I wonder if there's any allowance
same conditions, the amount of movement The Fine Tool Journal, PO Box 4001, made for the kerf of the saw blade? I
(in all three planes — tangential, radial, Pittsford, VT 05763, (800-248-8114). haven't seen this mentioned in any of your
longitudinal) can very widely from one articles, and there are occasions when 1
specie of wood to another. By using nar¬ SPLIT TURNINGS
feel there is no allowance for kerf widths.
rower strips with species that traditionally Whenever Pm turning bowls and other
have a tendency toward excessive move¬ items on a lathe, there's a problem that J. F. Marthens
ment, the ill-effects in some directions keeps cropping up. The problem is that the Whittier, California
(cupping, for example) can be controlled. wood keeps cracking shortly after the piece
However, there are two other factors is turned. Any suggestions? We do allow for at least an Vs kerf for each
that really have more to do with determin¬ cut. And sometimes we actually allow for
ing the amount of movement of a particular Ross Barnes wider kerfs because it’s often easier to give
board: the type of cutting pattern that was Cleveland, Ohio each piece a little bit extra width, than
used to cut the log into lumber (flat sawn, having the artists try to draw a very thin
rift sawn, quarter sawn), and the original Splitting or cracking of turned projects waste section on the edge of the drawing.
position of the individual pieces in relation¬ usually is caused by lumber that hasn’t However, we did goof on the cutting
ship to the pith, or the log’s center. (The been properly dried. During the turning diagram for the Tool Storage Cabinet in
closer the piece is to the pith of the log, the process, the wet interior of a semi-dried Woodsmith No. 25. Here we forgot to
more chance there is that it may cup.) piece of wood is exposed to the air, and it make allowances for the kerfs.
So in theory, the width of each piece prob¬ naturally starts to dry out. Unfortunately, This brings up a couple of other points
ably should vary according to the species, drying lumber this way causes extreme about the materials list and cutting dia¬
it’s original position in the log, and the stress in the wood as the exterior of the grams. The materials list gives the quan¬
cutting pattern used when cutting the log. wood dries and shrinks, and the interior tity, and finished size of each piece in a
But in practice, I’ve found that as long as stays relatively wet and stable. And when project. The cutting diagram isn’t quite so
I keep the width of each strip between 3"-5" the stress created by this imbalance be¬ exacting.
(for all species), not only are most of the comes stronger than the strength of the Part of the problem with the layout of
cupping problems associated with wide wood itself, it shows up as splits or cracks the cutting diagram is that hardwood
boards eliminated, but the number of in the surface. usually isn’t available in “standard” sizes.
strips and joints are also kept within rea¬ There are two ways to eliminate the This makes it almost impossible to lay-out
son. So much for theories. problem. The first is to use only well dried a cutting diagram that can be used by
COLLECTING OLD TOOLS lumber (dried to 7-9% moisture content) to everyone.
eliminate the variation in the moisture con¬ What we do is lay-out the pieces for a
We just received a sample copy of The Fine tent between the surface and the interior project in the most efficient arrangement,
Tool Journal, A Newsletter on Hand Tools of the wood. while at the same time keeping the overall
for Collectors arid Craftsmen. The best Although using either kiln dried wood, dimensions of the lumber needed within
description of the content of the newsletter or thoroughly air dried lumber is the best reason (12" wide boards make great cut¬
is found in the first paragraph: Tool collec¬ answer, there are times when a special ting diagrams, but they’re nearly impossi¬
tors have two primary concerns: “What’s it piece of wood shows up that can’t be ble to obtain in most areas).
worth?” and “Who made it, where and quickly, or effectively air dried. In this What this means is that the cutting lay¬
when?” These are the questions The Fine case, using a product called PEG might be out is only a guide. In fact, if you can’t
Tool Journal addresses. the answer. purchase lumber in the sizes listed in the
Anyone interested in antique wood¬ Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) is a chemical cutting diagram, you may need to draw out
working tools, whether for their antique that’s used to stabilize small quantities of your own version to match the size of lum¬
value, for actual use in the shop, or just to green or wet lumber (making it ideal for ber available.

Woodsmith
23
 Sources
Bellevue, WA 98004) the quickest way to saw blades manufactured by Freud or to
THREADED INSERTS locate a dealer is by looking in the Yellow find a dealer in your area you can contact
The threaded (“rosan”) inserts used to at¬ Pages under Paint. Freud at the address listed below.
tach the legs on the picnic table in this issue Cuprinol products (The Cuprinol Group, Freud
may be available at your local hardware Cleveland, OH 44115) are sold in all 50 218 Feld Ave.
store, but if not, you can buy them from one states. If you can’t find a supplier, call High Point, NC 27264
of the sources listed below. Cuprinol (800-424-5837) and ask for the (800) 472-7307
For more information on installing name of a distributor near you. A second call Forrest Manufacturing Co., Inc. features a
threaded (“rosan”) inserts, see Woodsmith to that distributor will get you the name of complete line of table saw blades in them
issue number 30. a local retail outlet for Cuprinol. catalog. To obtain a copy of their catalog
contact them at the address listed below.
OUTDOOR FINISHES SAW BLADES Forrest Mfg. Co., Inc.
The preservative/stains we used are gener¬ The Sears blades tested in this issue are 461 River Rd.
ally available throughout the country. In available in most Sears stores nationwide. Clifton, NJ 07014
the case of Olympic stains, (Olympic Stain, To obtain more information about the (800) 773-7111

PRICES. All of the prices and information

listed in the Saw Blade article were cur¬
rent at the time of the original printing in
1983.

WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIES MAIL ORDER SOURCES

ORDER BY MAIL ORDER BY PHONE Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the following catalog.
To order by mail, use the form For faster service use our Toll Please call each company for a catalog or information.
enclosed with a current issue. Free order line. Phone orders Woodcraft Constantine’s
The order form includes infor¬ can be placed Monday through 800-225-1153 800-223-8087
mation on handling and ship¬ Friday, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM Self Adhesive Measuring Tape, Threaded Inserts
ping charges and sales tax. Central Standard Time. Threaded Inserts The Woodworkers’ Store
Send your mail order to: Before calling, have your Garrett Wade 800-279-4441
VISA, MasterCard, or Dis¬ 800-221-2942 Self Adhesive Measuring Tape,
cover card ready. Self Adhesive Measuring Tape, Threaded Inserts, Saw Blades
Woodsmith Project Supplies Threaded Inserts Trendlines
800-444-7002 800-767-9999
P.O. Box 10850 Woodworkers Supply
Des Moines, IA50806 800-645-9292 Threaded Inserts, Saw Blades
Prices subject to change, call
Threaded Inserts, Saw Blades
for current prices.

24 Woodsmith