Practical Wanderlust Presents:

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

COMPLETE GUIDE TO A LAND-BASED TRIP
Welcome to the Complete Guide to Visiting the Galapagos Islands by land! Our week in the Galapagos Islands was
absolutely magical - and we think exploring the islands without a cruise is the best way to see the Galapagos, hands down.
You’re in for an AMAZING time! We’d love to live vicariously through you, so please tag us on Instagram & Facebook
(@PracticalWanderlust), and Twitter (@PracticalWander) during your trip! Psst: We love cute animal pictures … hint hint :)

Have an amazing time in the Galapagos Islands!

xoxo, Lia & Jeremy

TABLE OF CONTENTS
How to Get to the Galapagos Islands
What to Pack for the Galapagos Islands

SANTA CRUZ & PUERTO AYORA

Overview
Where to Stay
Activities
● Las Grietas
● Tortuga Bay
● Santa Fe Day Trip

ISLA ISABELA
Overview
Where to Stay
Activities
● Las Tintoreras
● The Lava Tunnels/Los Tuneles
● Concha Perlas
● Wall of Tears Hike

SAN CRISTOBAL
Overview
Where to Stay
Activities
● Kicker Rock
● La Loberia
● Lover’s Beach

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THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
COMPLETE GUIDE TO A LAND-BASED TRIP

HOW TO GET TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

● The only way to get to the Galapagos Islands is to fly from Ecuador.
● There are two cities with airports that frequently fly into the Galapagos: Quito and Guayaquil.
● All flights are with either Avianca or LATAM, which are both reputable and reliable South American airlines.

There are two airports on the Galapagos to fly into:

● Baltra: Baltra is the airport closest to Puerto Ayora and Santa Cruz Island. It’s super easy to get from Baltra to
Puerto Ayora. There’s a free shuttle to the ferry from Baltra to Santa Cruz Island. From the Santa Cruz ferry dock,
you can either take a bus (the cheap, slower way) or a pickup truck taxi (the expensive, faster way) to Puerto Ayora.
● San Cristobal: San Cristobal airport is right on San Cristobal island, so this is the best place to fly into if your first
stop is San Cristobal.

TRAVEL TIPS FOR FLYING TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

● The check-in process at the airport takes a while for any flight headed to the Galapagos Islands. You’ll be given
some paperwork to do to let you into the island. Then, you’ll go through an extra security checkpoint for certain
items that aren’t allowed into the Galapagos, like most raw produce. There are lines for each of these stops, and
depending on the amount of cruise-goers leaving that day, it might take a while (for us, it was around an hour). Allow
yourself more time than usual.
● When you arrive at the Galapagos Islands airport, you’ll be subject to a even more paperwork, and you’ll have to
pay the $100 entrance fee. We know, $100 is steep! But the entrance fee goes towards conservation, breeding of
endangered species, research, habitat protection, and other really wonderful services that keep the Galapagos
Island the magical wildlife haven that it is.
● If you can, fly into one airport and out of the other. If you can, schedule a flight into Baltra and out of San Cristobal
or vise versa to give yourself more time and flexibility for a greater variety of tours.

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WHAT TO PACK FOR THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Here are our must-have recommendations for what to pack for the Galapagos Islands! For specific information
about we packed & links to our must-have products, click here.

● High SPF Sunscreen: The Galapagos are ON the equator, and the sun is STRONG. Skimping on sunscreen
could mean the worst sunburn of your life! Make sure you have Reef Safe Sunscreen for when you’re
snorkeling or swimming, to protect the coral reef and underwater critters!
● Bathing Suit Cover or Swim Shirt: I’m gonna be honest with you: reef safe sunscreen is not the easiest to
apply. It’s thick and doesn’t soak in easily. But like, I love animals and the environment. So my solution is
actually to cover up my skin as much as possible so I don’t HAVE to wear sunscreen. Win/win! When
swimming, especially in cold water (like the Galapagos)
● Snorkel Mask & Fins: Bringing your own will save you money on rentals during your trip - plus, if you splurge
on the good stuff, you’ll have a more enjoyable time in the water, too.
● Water Shoes: For every minute that you’re not wearing flippers, you’ll want to be wearing water shoes.
Whether you’re trying to walk over one of the insanely spiky black volcanic rocks – they’re pretty, but they
hurt so much – or just wading into some water (surprise! more volcanic rocks) your un-cut feet will thank me
later.
● Dry Bag: Don’t set foot on a boat without putting your stuff in a dry bag, just in case. Like I’m not saying the
boat is going to tip over, but you never know when a wave/rogue sea lion is going to splash your sh*t, and I’m not
big on risk. This one is excellent and comes with a phone protector too, so your phone is extra safe (and usable
while you’re in the water)!
● Travel Towel: Towels are not provided on the day tours you’ll be taking on your land based Galapagos Islands
trip, so you’ll want to bring your own lightweight, quick-dry towel.
● Dramamine: For boat rides in between islands. Trust me, you will need it.
● Travel Clothesline: We had this hanging up in every hotel room we stayed at in the Galapagos. Every day we
hung up our wet towels and bathing suit to dry. It keeps your stuff from getting moldy and avoids the dreaded
wet bathing suit rash *shudder*.
● GoPro or Underwater Camera: You didn’t come all the way to the Galapagos Islands to NOT get underwater
footage of baby sea lions swimming with giant sea turtles and reef sharks. You gotta have an underwater
camera! Just makes sure you leave the lights at home - your camera should never disturb the wild animals! NO
FLASH, ever.

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SANTA CRUZ ISLAND & PUERTO AYORA

Puerto Ayora is a bustling coastal town on Santa Cruz Island that is absolutely teeming with wildlife! Around every corner
is another opportunity to see brightly colored crabs, snoozing sea lions, and cuddling marine iguanas. You’ll find many of
the best restaurants, hotels, and day tours in Puerto Ayora.

For a full write-up about our time in Puerto Ayora, click here.

HOW TO GET TO PUERTO AYORA

● From the Baltra airport: take the free shuttle to the docks. Santa Cruz Island is a 5 minute ferry ride from the Baltra
docks. From the docks on the Santa Cruz side it’s about a 45 minute drive into Puerto Ayora. You can either take a
$20 white pick-up truck taxi – you’ll find many waiting – or the much cheaper bus. There are limited airline arrivals
each day, so expect to wait a little while for the bus to fill up fully before it leaves. We found a group to share a taxi
with us to cut costs. The bus will take you to a terminal just outside of town, but a taxi from the bus stop is only $1.
● From San Cristobal: take one of the daily ferries to Puerto Ayora. It’s best to purchase your tickets at least a day in
advance as there seats are limited. The ride is about 2 hours.

TIPS FOR VISITING PUERTO AYORA

● The Puerto Ayora fish market is a must-see and perfectly captures the magic of the Galapagos Islands. Make sure
to stop by during the week when it’s open!
● Most places in Ecuador don’t accept credit card, or charge extra to do so. The Galapagos Islands are no exception:
cash is king. Luckily, there are ATMs galore on Puerto Ayora and loads of shops, restaurants and bars to spend your
cash in!
● There is a huge grocery store right by the main dock in town, where we picked up groceries for snacks and
breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN PUERTO AYORA

● The Kiosks/Los Kioskos are the best place to eat in Puerto Ayora. The Kiosks comprise seafood alley, a
street lined with small, locally-owned restaurants all cooking variations of the same incredibly fresh, locally
caught seafood purchased from the fish market earlier in the day.
● A whole bruja fish to share is $15 at Sol y Mar, one of the kiosks in seafood alley. Their grilled and fried whole
fish, grilled octopus, seafood cazuela, sopa de queso, and various batidos are all excellent!
● The kioscos are located at Baltra & Charles Binford. It’s easy to walk from anywhere in town. You can also
always take a cheap pickup truck taxi. If you need to, ask any local for help finding los kioskos – they’ll all know.
● The best coffee in Puerto Ayora that we found was at OMG Espresso, a roastery serving locally grown
Galapagos coffee. Bonus: it also has fro-yo!
● You’ll find plenty of places to get drinks for Happy Hour along Charles Darwin avenue, the main street in
Puerto Ayora. Stroll through around sunset to take advantage of the best 2-for-1 drink offers!

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WHERE TO STAY IN PUERTO AYORA

There are plenty of affordable hotels in Puerto Ayora! Expect decently sized private rooms with private bathrooms,
hot water, towels, drinkable water, and the works for around $50-70 a night, or a bit higher if you opt to include
breakfast. You'll want to stay within walking distance of the docks, kiosks, and grocery store, and most hotels are
located within a 10 minute walk from everything.

BUDGET: BALLIN’ ($200+)

● Finch Bay is hands down the nicest hotel in Puerto Ayora. If you want to splash out like a celebrity, this is the
place. Luxury everything. There’s even a private dock with a private yacht for guests. Finch Bay is located on
Punta Estrada near Alemanes Beach, away from the main area of Puerto Ayora – so you’ll need to take a cheap,
super quick water taxi to get to the main dock (but you’ll also be conveniently located for your day trip to Las
Grietas!). Amenities include free Wi-Fi, A/C, a gorgeous swimming pool and restaurant, and a pier with yachts
to visit the islands. Breakfast with bacon, sausages, pancakes, fresh fruits and eggs is served daily. Check
Prices

● Hotel Angermeyer Waterfront Inn is in a picturesque building made of lava stones and driftwood, located on
the Punta Estrada Waterfront by Alemanes Beach. Huge windows overlook the sea as you dine on your
included breakfast or enjoy a cocktail by the fireplace. Sunbathe, chill, or snorkel on the private waterfront!
Check Prices

BUDGET: MID-RANGE (UNDER $100)

● We stayed at Sueno Silvestres and definitely recommend it. If you stay here, tell the owner, Carlos, that we
said hello! He was so friendly and welcoming. The hotel is located close the the Charles Darwin research
center and a few blocks away from the beach & main stretch of Puerto Ayora in a nice quiet and private area.
Our room was large, hot water was plentiful, there were free towels and drinkable water provided, and
breakfast is available for an extra fee. Check prices

● We also stayed at Galapagos Native, which is more centrally located closer to the docks (located just off of a
busier street). Our room was large, there were hot water and towels included, and we loved that breakfast was
included in our rate. Check Prices

BUDGET: AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE (UNDER $50)

● For a true budget option, we’ve heard good things about this hostel! Galapagos Best Home Stay has 4-bed dorm
rooms for around $20 a bed. That’s an amazing value for the Galapagos! Check Prices

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ACTIVITIES AND DAY TOURS FROM PUERTO AYORA

Puerto Ayora is the main hub for the Galapagos Islands, and a good home base to do the Galapagos without a cruise.
There are plenty of activities you can do on the island itself, plus loads of day trips and tours.

● We recommend booking your Puerto Ayora day tours as soon as you arrive on the island. To book a day trip
or tour, just find any tour operator (their offices are all over town) or visit the kiosk near the docks. Be aware
that you’ll need to pay for your day tour up front with cash.

SNORKEL IN LAS GRIETAS

Las Grietas is a beautiful clear pool between two sheer volcanic cliff faces. Las Grietas is the best snorkeling on
Santa Cruz Island by far. As a bonus? It’s free! No guide or tour necessary.

HOW TO GET TO LAS GRIETAS

● From Puerto Ayora, take a water taxi from the docks and ask for Punta Estrada or just say you’re going to Las
Grietas – they’ll know what you mean. It’s a ridiculously short ride and the water taxi is under $1.
● Once you’re dropped off, you’ll walk past a fancy hotel and a couple of high-end bars and restaurants (this is
the expensive side of Puerto Ayora). Walk along the boardwalk (it’s the only option for you to walk on, so you
won’t get lost). The boardwalk will take you past Punta Estrada, a small cove where you can swim, with a beach
during low tide. Keep walking down the boardwalk past some interesting pink tinged salt flats. After about 15
minutes you’ll reach Las Grietas! tl;dr follow the only path until it ends. Easy enough, right?

TIPS FOR VISITING LAS GRIETAS

● Rent your snorkel gear & a short wetsuit in town if you don’t have your own.
● There are actually 3 pools in Las Grietas, but most people never make it past the first one. Don’t miss out!
Swim all the way to the end of the first pool, climb (carefully!) over the rocks, and swim through the second
pool to access the hidden third pool. To get to it you’ll either have to carefully climb over more rocks (seriously,
be careful. Jeremy slipped and cut his foot here) or take a deep breath, dive down, and swim through the
underwater cave on the far right side. When there are no people in the pool, there are hundreds of fish
swimming in this section undisturbed, and it’s absolutely incredible.
● Head to Las Grietas around noon to beat the cruise crowds and catch the most sparkly, sunny hours. When
the cruises show up they make tons of noise and scare away all the fish. You’ll want to clear out by 5pm.
● We spend an entire day at Las Grietas – pack a lunch! And bring plenty of water and sunscreen, too.
● We tried snorkeling at Punta Estrada - the beach you’ll walk past on your way to Las Grietas - and it wasn’t
worth it: visibility is awful. We only recommend visiting Punta Estrada to eat lunch on the beach during low
tide and make friends with hungry finches who will land on you and look cute hoping to catch some crumbs!

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ACTIVITIES AND DAY TOURS FROM PUERTO AYORA

SWIM AND KAYAK IN TORTUGA BAY

We recommend spending a day relaxing on the beach, swimming, and kayaking in Tortuga Bay – but don’t expect to
see any wildlife or do any snorkelling. The beach – especially the stunning white sand beach leading to the bay itself
– is absolutely pristine, and gorgeous. It was worth the hike out even if the snorkeling wasn’t.

HOW TO GET TO TORTUGA BAY

● The best way to get to Tortuga Bay from Puerto Ayora is by walking. From the Puerto Ayora pier, cross the
main road and reach Baltra Avenue. It’s a red cobblestone street with a bike lane. Walk 2 blocks and you’ll
reach Charles Binford Street. Turn right. Follow Charles Binford Street out of town until you reach the end of
the street, after about 10 minutes.
● At the end of the street is a staircase up a short hill. At the top of the hill is a little kiosk where you’ll sign in to
enter the park.
● From the kiosk is a smooth cobblestone path – stroller friendly, we saw a few families – that you’ll walk down
for about 45 minutes. It’s not the prettiest walk, unless you enjoy seeing the same cactus and stubbly tree
scenery for 45 minutes.
● You’ll reach the beach and be rewarded with an incredibly beautiful view. The water here is too dangerous for
swimming, so there’s usually nobody here. Turn right and walk down the beach for a stunning 15 or so minutes
until you reach the end of the beach.
● To your left are some rocks where you can see nesting marine iguanas and watch turtles swim in the open
ocean.
● Straight and to the right you’ll find Tortuga Bay – look for people swimming and sunbathing on the shore of a
big horseshoe shaped bay!

TIPS FOR VISITING TORTUGA BAY

● Pack in everything you will need for the day as there is nowhere to buy anything at the beach. We advise
bringing tons of sunscreen and sun protection (the sun is much stronger here on the equator!), a lot of water
(remember you have a long sunny hike to and from Tortuga Bay), a packed lunch and snacks, toilet paper (there
isn’t a bathroom, but you can find a spot if you need one in the bushes), a towel, and of course your swimsuit!
● The water is comfortable for swimming without a wetsuit and is pretty shallow during low tide.
● We rented snorkel gear for $14 and it definitely wasn’t worth it – this isn’t a good snorkel spot. There are
supposed to be reef sharks, rays, and turtles in the water, but it’s deep and murky and you can’t see anything.
● We rented kayaks for $20 an hour from the lone vendor on the beach. We attempted to snorkel in different
spots in the bay that were too far to swim to, but that didn’t pan out. If you enjoy kayaking just for the sake of
it, rent a kayak. Otherwise, you can skip the kayak rental.
● If you want to try to skip the hike, we saw water taxis in the bay that go around the perimeter of the island to
and from Puerto Ayora. You can catch one at the main docks in Puerto Ayora. While we were visiting there
were a few hanging out ready to take people back, but don’t count on one showing up – be prepared to walk!

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ACTIVITIES AND DAY TOURS FROM PUERTO AYORA

SANTA FE ISLAND DAY TRIP

We took the Santa Fe Island day tour from Puerto Ayora. The tour was over 8 hours long: we left at 8am and returned
at 5pm.

WHAT TO EXPECT

First we spent over an hour relaxing on a beach. None of the group knew we were going to be parked at a beach for
over an hour, so nobody had brought anything to do, blankets, sunglasses, etc – we were all prepared to just hop in
the ocean and snorkel. There are worse ways to waste time, but I do wish we’d had some advance notice.

Next we went to a rocky cliff face to snorkel. The current was incredibly strong; this is not your average relaxing
snorkeling and swimming was difficult!

Next we went to another area, a bright blue lagoon, where we finally were able to swim with sea lions along the rocks
where they lay relaxing. Then a provided lunch, then another optional hour for swimming, and then an odd 30
minutes of our boat trying to catch fish for the next day’s lunch; then finally we returned.

TIPS FOR THE SANTA FE TOUR FROM SANTA CRUZ ISLAND

● The best part of this tour was that it wasn’t rushed; we weren’t constantly having to keep up with a group or all
trailing the same animals. Also, there are 3 separate locations, 2 of which have unique snorkeling opportunities,
so it wasn’t repetitive or boring at all.
● If you do this tour, do it earlier in your trip as you’re unlikely to see much that’s new and exciting if you’ve
already been snorkeling a lot.
● It’s cheaper than most day tours from Puerto Ayora: we paid $60 each including lunch.
● Our tour didn’t include wetsuits, but the water is frigid. Rent wetsuits at any agency in town for the day.
● The provided masks were poorly made – two of the air tubes, including mine, fell off in the ocean. We were
then asked to pay for the lost tubes (I politely refused). Bring your own if you can.
● Bring something to do during the hour you’ll spend on the beach, like a book in a dry bag or some waterproof
cards or a towel to sit on.

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ISABELA ISLAND/ISLA ISABELA

Isabela Island is the BEST Galapagos Island for wildlife. Seahorse shaped Isabela Island is one of the three inhabited
Galapagos islands. Its main town, Puerto Villamil, has plenty of hotels and restaurants. Puerto Villamil is small, with
unpaved sand roads. From end to end, you can walk the entire town in 10 minutes. In comparison to bustling Puerto
Ayora, Puerto Villamil is tiny and sleepy.

Food and hotels costs far more here, and there are fewer options. Restaurant food was mostly lackluster and
expensive. There aren’t many stores on the island, so we recommend buying food at the grocery in Puerto Ayora
and bringing as much as you can in to save money.

For a full write-up about our time in Isla Isabela, click here.

HOW TO GET TO ISABELA ISLAND/ISLA ISABELA

● You can only get to Isla Isabela from Santa Cruz Island – there is no ferry from San Cristobal!
● To buy a ferry ticket to Isabela Island, just ask any tour agency in Puerto Ayora – they’re all selling the same
tickets. We purchased our ferry tickets from L/P Andy, who have a kiosk directly on the docks in Puerto
Ayora.
● It’s best to book your tickets to and from Isabela Island a day or two in advance.
● If you don’t wish to stay overnight, you can book a day trip to Isabela Island which includes one of the tours
listed below, from any tour agency in Puerto Ayora.

TIPS FOR VISITING ISABELA ISLAND & PUERTO VILLAMIL

● Bring cash with you - there are no ATMs on Isabela Island! Most places won't accept credit cards, or will
charge a high fee to do so (this is the case throughout Ecuador). Bring USD from home, or stock up at Puerto
Ayora.
● Where to Eat on Isabela Island: There is one block in Puerto Villamil with several similiar restaurants all lined
up next to each other. Our favorite of the bunch was El Encanto de Pepa. It has generous dinner specials like
grilled fish, octopus, or fried shrimp with rice, fries and juice for $7.
● Where to get coffee on Isabela Island: Honestly, there is no good coffee on Isabela Island. We recommend
buying cheap $1 coffee at a little juice shop near the main stretch of restaurants. It’s the cheapest we found:
everyone else was charging double that for the exact same shitty instant brew. You could also get shitty
instant coffee from the grocery store in Puerto Ayora and bring it with you.

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WHERE TO STAY ON ISABELA ISLAND

Although Puerto Villamil is tiny, there are plenty of comfortable places to stay on Isla Isabela. The quiet sandy
seaside town will feel like an island heaven. But don't expect bargain prices - everything from electricity to coffee
must be shipped to the island from the larger Puerto Ayora, making costs that much higher.

Here are our picks for where to on Isla Isabela for any budget.

BUDGET: BALLIN’ ($150+)

● Hotel Albemarle: Set in a Mediterranean-style house located right on Cuna del Sol Beach, Hotel Albemarle
features a lush garden with an outdoor pool. Decorated with tiled floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, the
large rooms at Albemarle Hotel are cozy and cute - and air conditioned!Each room features private marble
bathrooms and either sea or pool views. If you visit during Carnaval in late February, you'll be steps away from
the beachfront party! Check Prices

BUDGET: MID-RANGE ($100-150)

● Drake Inn: If you like oceanfront views, Drake Inn is an amazing value. Located across the street from the
beach, you'll be treated to stunning sea views from the private rooftop terrace. Each room here will provide
you with air conditioning, a private balcony, and an included breakfast. Drake Inn is a located 3 minute walk
from the Puerto Villamil town center. Check Prices

● La Casa de Marita: Situated directly on the beach, La Casa de Marita has all of the amenities you want at a
super reasonable price. There's free Wi-Fi, a buffet breakfast, A/C, private balconies, hammocks to swing in as
you watch the sunset, an on-site restaurant, and a pool. You'll pay extra if you want ocean-front views, but
you're only ever a few steps away from the beach. Check Prices

BUDGET: AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE (UNDER $100)

● Hostal Cerro Azul: Let me be clear: this hostel is mostly "cheap" because it's not directly on the beach. It's
close to both the beach and the main stretch of Puerto Villamil. The amenities are just about all there: A/C,
private rooms and bathrooms, hammocks, a common area, and free Wi-Fi (in common areas only). Check
Prices

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ACTIVITIES & TOURS FROM ISABELA ISLAND

Nobody visits Isabela Island for sleepy little Puerto Villamil (sorry, but it’s true). The reason you must visit Isabela
Island is for the fantastic day trips, tours, hikes, and wildlife excursions!

LAS TINTORERAS TOUR

Las Tintoreras are just off the main dock of Isabela Island, so this is a shorter guided tour than most since there is
little travel time. This is a fantastic tour for snorkeling, but it is crowded and quick. We had 16 people in our tour
and only stayed in the water for an hour. As soon as we spotted a turtle or an eagle ray, a crowd of people was
suddenly jostling us for pictures and the animal would quickly flee. After an hour in the water, we headed over to a
nature walk in a lava rock field to see some iguanas and a small inlet where white tip reef sharks were resting. The
Las Tintoreras tour was a bit too fast paced for us – we like to go at our own speed, and observe wildlife much more
quietly. But, you do see a LOT of wildlife! The best part of the tour was the snorkeling, and we wish there was more
of it … and less people.

TIPS FOR THE LAS TINTORERAS TOUR

● The tour was $45 each for 3 total hours of adventure, only 1 hour of which was in the water.
● The water is chilly, so we recommend wearing a short wetsuit.
● We’d recommend looking into a kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras instead, which is $40 per person and includes
3 hours on the water and no nature walk, meaning there is much more snorkeling. It’s also a much smaller tour
and leaves whenever you like. We really wish we’d done this instead!
● You can book either the complete tour or the kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras at Pahoehoe Tour Agency, off of
the main strip in Puerto Villamil.

THE LAVA TUNNELS TOUR/LOS TUNELES

Los Tuneles/The Lava Tunnels tour from Isabela Island was our favorite guided tour by far. It’s about 5 hours long,
including 45 minutes of travel each way. Once you arrive, you’ll be snorkeling for a good hour and a half, which
allows for a more relaxed speed and less frantic jostling for pictures.

We saw countless beautiful fish, sleeping sharks in caves formed by molten lava, several giant sea turtles, and a few
rays. Then we got back into the boat to eat a provided lunch, and the ship captain carefully navigated us into the
lava tunnels where we saw a penguin and a nest of baby blue footed boobies with their parents! It was truly magical
and everything we hoped for in a Galapagos tour.

TIPS FOR THE LAVA TUNNELS TOUR

● We paid $90 each for a tour operated by Pahoehoe, and we’d highly recommend them. Our guide spoke
excellent English and was very knowledgeable – he’d been leading Galapagos tours daily for almost a decade!
You can find their office in town along the main street in Puerto Villamil.

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ACTIVITIES & TOURS FROM ISABELA ISLAND

SNORKELING IN CONCHA PERLAS

Concha Perlas is a lagoon near the docks of Puerto Villamil where you can do self-guided snorkeling and swimming,
no guide necessary. Concha Perlas has excellent snorkeling: perfect visibility, plenty to explore, and lots of wildlife!
We swam with several sea turtles, a GIANT manta ray (horrifyingly large, like 6 feet and jet black. I’ll be honest, I
thought I was going to die), a swimming iguana, and a sea lion all in under 2 hours – and with no crowds of people to
navigate around! This was by far our best self-guided day trip in the Galapagos Islands.

HOW TO GET TO CONCHA PERLAS

● Concha Perlas is little lagoon to the side of the main dock in Isla Isabela, which is about 10 minutes walking
from Puerto Villamil.
● Look for a little boardwalk with a sign heading off into the mangroves just before the main docks – just past the
stand selling fresh coconuts! Walk a short ways down this boardwalk stepping over napping sea lions (one
barked at us, don’t get too close) and you’ll end up at a little dock with a ladder leading into the water.

TIPS FOR SNORKELING IN CONCHA PERLAS

● We highly recommend spending a relaxed day of snorkeling here. It is such a nice change of pace from the
guided tours!
● Concha Perlas is close to food and drink options right on the beach (including fresh young coconuts, yum!)so no
packed lunch is necessary!
● The water is a little cold so you do need a wetsuit.
● We rented short wetsuits and snorkel gear from Pahoehoe for $22.

THE WALL OF TEARS HIKE

El Muro de Las Lagrimas is one of Isla Isabela’s most famous hikes. It’s self guided and is the only way to
seeGalapagos Flamingos without a guide. The name comes from the wall at the end of the hike. Before the
Galapagos Islands was a destination for travelers all over the world and a nature conservatory, it was on its way to
becoming a secretive prison colony – as one Ecuadorian native told us, it was meant to be what Guantanamo Bay
became.

The Wall of Tears was built in the 1950’s by 300 prisoners, toiling away under the hot sun to cut and haul heavy
black volcanic rock in order to build their own prison. Pushed to their limit, the prisoners – many of whom had
perished during the backbreaking work – revolted and attacked their jailers. All that is left of their struggle is the
wall.

Although we didn’t have time to do the hike, we were most looking forward to the chance to see flamingos, land
tortoises, sea lions and marine iguanas on the 3-hour long hike. If you opt for the hike, bring a lot of sunscreen and
water! The Ecuador sun is stronger than elsewhere in the world.

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SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND

Sadly, we did not make it to San Cristobal Island. We tried, but it turns out you can’t do a day trip from Puerto Ayora
on Santa Cruz Island to San Cristobal Island for a tour without an overnight stay. So be sure to account for this in
your plans!

HOW TO GET TO SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND

● You can fly into San Cristobal island and take a ferry to Santa Cruz or to other uninhabited islands.

● You can take a ferry from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal. It’s about 2 hours long and leaves twice a day.

TIPS FOR VISITING SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND

● Tours and ferries are operated separately. This means that you can’t schedule a tour from Santa Cruz Island on
San Cristobal and return the same night – the ferry schedule doesn’t allow for it. You have to do an overnight
on San Cristobal if you want to return to Santa Cruz.

● If San Cristobal is on your must-see list, we recommend trying to book a flight that lets you fly into Baltra and
out of San Cristobal, or vise versa. Or, allow yourself a couple of days.

● Book tours and ferries a day or two in advance!

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN SAN CRISTOBAL

● Stop by the Mockingbird Cafe for cheap meals AND the best coffee in the Galapagos! The owner of local coffee
plantation Hacienda El Cafetal owns this coffee shop, which is serving up the most prized local coffee beans
grown on the islands. The coffee plantation dates back to 1832, but you’d probably know it best as the source
of the very first Starbucks Reserve beans in 2010.

● Grab a $5 almuerzo, aka set lunch, at Rosita for a cheap and filling meal – an Ecuadorian tradition. If you’re on a
budget for dinner, too, head to Lucky’s, a local favorite with meals under $4.

● The best thing to eat in the Galapagos is whole grilled fish cooked on a sizzling outdoor grill, and that’s what
you’ll find at Bambu.

● Get some delicious fresh seafood at El Descanso Marinero, which is considered by many to be the best
restaurant in town.

● Here is an excellent list of local places to eat in San Cristobal that aren’t on TripAdvisor!

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WHERE TO STAY IN SAN CRISTOBAL

The main town in San Cristobal is called Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, and that’s where all of the available
accommodations are located.

BUDGET: BALLIN’ ($250+)

● Golden Bay Hotel & Spa: Treat yo’self to beachside luxury at this amazing resort. Located on the Playa de Oro
(hence the name, I presume), Golden Bay Hotel & Spa is everything you’d want from a luxury hotel in the
Galapagos Islands. You’ll eat your included breakfast gazing out the windows at frolicking sea lions on the
beach, only steps away. After a long day of snorkeling with critters, you’ll relax in your air conditioned room
after a massage at the spa. Can you imagine anything more heavenly?! Check Prices

BUDGET: MID-RANGE ($100-$250)

● Casa Playa Mann: Situated just steps away from the beach and about a 5 minute walk from the main stretch of
town, you’ll be able to enjoy plenty of ocean or garden views from your hammock at Casa Playa Mann. You’ll
also find amenities like A/C, a fitness center (if you’re That Person who works out while on vacation – you go
Glen Coco), and free WiFi. Check Prices

BUDGET: AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE (UNDER $100)

● Casa de Jeimy: Located only 10-15 minutes walking from the airport, Casa de Jeimy is conveniently situated
only a few blocks away from the waterfront. You’ll get private rooms, A/C, WiFi, and the works all for a
fantastic rate. Enjoy the rooftop common area overlooking the harbor or the shared kitchen and hammocks.
Check Prices
● Hotel Mar Azul: You’ll get awesome value at Hotel Mar Azul. The hotel is located super close to the pier and
main stretch of shops and restaurants. Your room will be equipped with A/C and a mini fridge and breakfast is
included. You can rent snorkelling gear from the front desk. No frills, but the rate is great! Check Prices

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SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND

THE KICKER ROCK TOUR FROM SAN CRISTOBAL

Kicker Rock, also called Leon Dormido for its resemblance to a sleeping sea lion, is a unique rock formation
consisting of two vertical slices of cliff face set in perfect parallel to one another in the open sea. It is home to a
plethora of fantastic underwater life. This is the one tour we didn’t get to do, and REALLY wanted to. We heard from
a fellow backpacker that Kicker Rock was the best snorkeling in the Galapagos! In addition to the usual Galapagos
menagerie of rays, fish, turtles, and more, you’ll also get the chance to swim with sea lionsand, circling far down
below, hammerhead sharks!! Ahhh! Kicker Rock is also an amazing place to dive, if you’re certified.

HOW TO GET TO KICKER ROCK

● Kicker Rock is just off the shore of San Cristobal. If you’re in San Cristobal, it’s an easy and inexpensive day trip.
Book with any tour operator in town.
● If you’re in Santa Cruz, you’ll need to book a ferry to San Cristobal, book a Kicker Rock tour on San Cristobal
Island, and then book your return ferry the next day. I know it sounds like a lot of booking, but it’s actually
really easy to do: You can book the ferries & tour while still in Santa Cruz, with any agency or tour operator in
town. Or, just go to the docks and find the kiosk (there is only one). They’ll be able to help you there.
● Plan to stay overnight on San Cristobal – you can’t do this as a day trip from Puerto Ayora!

LA LOBERIA BEACH

La Loberia is named for its claim to fame: it’s a Sea Lion breeding ground! When the tide is low, you can snorkel with
adorable baby sea lions and their sea turtle friends like you’re a character in a Disney movie (just don’t touch them.
Or feed them)! You also have a good chance to see blue footed boobies and frigate birds here – and you’re
guaranteed to get spit on by some huffy marine iguanas.

To get to La Loberia, Take a $3 camioneta (a white taxi found everywhere on the islands) 5 minutes, or rent a bike
for a 15 minute ride. Or, walk for 40 minutes out of town. You can visit La Loberia without a guide, but look for a
yellow or red flag which indicates that it’s unsafe to swim. Stay for the sunset – the views are said to be absolutely
incredible!

WATCH THE SUNSET AT LOVER’S BEACH

Cozy up with your honey (or like, a sea lion or whatever) at Punta Carola, also known as Lovers Beach. To get to
Lover’s Beach, take the path through the Interpretation Center or walk to the end of the dirt road and locate a rocky
path leading to the beach. You can watch the sunset from the beach or continue on the path up Cerro Tijeratas (aka
Frigate Bird Hill) to catch some absolutely stunning views of the sun setting over Kicker Rock from up high – while
chillin’ with some Frigate Birds, of course. It’s a Galapagos Islands dream!

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