APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

CRESCENT FASHION & DESIGN LTD.

BEXIMCO Group, Gazipur, Bangladesh

Akanksha Sharma
Vicky Kumar Anand
Bachelor of Fashion Technology (2015-2019)
National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), MUMBAI

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Table of Contents

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ..................................................................................................................... 5
ABOUT THE COMPANY .................................................................................................................... 6
HISTORY ......................................................................................................................................... 6
CRESCENT FASHION & DESIGN LTD. ................................................................................................. 6
Products and customers .................................................................................................................. 7
DELIVERY SCHEDULE ....................................................................................................................... 7
DELIVERY METHODS & AVERAGE TIME TO ANY PORT ...................................................................... 7
DEPARTMENT DISTRIBUTION IN THE PLANT..................................................................................... 8
DEPARTMENTAL STUDY .................................................................................................................. 9
MERCHANDISING ........................................................................................................................ 9
Department structure ........................................................................................................................ 9
Work flow of department ................................................................................................................ 10
Merchandising activities .................................................................................................................. 10
Procedure For Costing...................................................................................................................... 10
Documentation in merchandising department ............................................................................... 12
CENTRAL SAMPLING .................................................................................................................. 13
Purpose of Sampling ........................................................................................................................ 13
Stages of sampling ........................................................................................................................... 13
Sampling activities ........................................................................................................................... 16
Manpower Distribution.................................................................................................................... 16
Types of machines in centralized sampling ..................................................................................... 17
CENTRAL PLANNING .................................................................................................................. 18
Department structure ...................................................................................................................... 18
Process Flow..................................................................................................................................... 18
Roles and Responsibilities ................................................................................................................ 19
Department wise lead time ............................................................................................................. 21
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT .................................................................................. 22
Checklist ........................................................................................................................................... 22
Process Flow..................................................................................................................................... 23
Line setup process............................................................................................................................ 24
Roles and responsibilities................................................................................................................. 24
Operation Bulletin............................................................................................................................ 25
OB Preparation................................................................................................................................. 25
Formulas Chart ................................................................................................................................. 26
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FABRIC AND TRIMS STORE ......................................................................................................... 28
Fabric in warding process ................................................................................................................ 28
Trims in warding process ................................................................................................................. 29
(CAD) COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT......................................................................... 31
Work flow......................................................................................................................................... 31
SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................... 33
Work flow......................................................................................................................................... 33
INTELLOCUT ..................................................................................................................................... 35
Activities ........................................................................................................................................... 38
LIST OF MACHINERY ......................................................................................................................... 39
SEWING SECTION ...................................................................................................................... 40
Activities in sewing room ................................................................................................................. 40
Machine types .................................................................................................................................. 40
WORK FLOW OF DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................................... 41
Checklists (Documents & reports) ................................................................................................... 42
WASHING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................... 43
Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 43
Process Flow..................................................................................................................................... 43
Wet Processes .................................................................................................................................. 44
Dry processing.................................................................................................................................. 45
Types of Machines ........................................................................................................................... 45
Chemicals used ................................................................................................................................ 46
Enzymes ........................................................................................................................................... 47
Chemicals used in Final wash ........................................................................................................... 47
FINISHING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................... 48
Checklists ......................................................................................................................................... 48
Machine/Equipment Details ............................................................................................................ 48
Work flow......................................................................................................................................... 49
PACKAGING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................ 50
Checklists ......................................................................................................................................... 50
Process flow of packaging ................................................................................................................ 50
QUALITY DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................................. 51
Quality Assurance check points ....................................................................................................... 51
Quality Assurance Department manpower distribution (per shift)................................................. 52
Quality Control check points ............................................................................................................ 53

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 TYPES OF DEFECTS ........................................................................................................................... 53
Quality Control Department manpower distribution (per shift) ..................................................... 54
MAINTENANCE.......................................................................................................................... 54
Yearly Maintenance plan ................................................................................................................. 55
WAREHOUSE ............................................................................................................................. 56
Work flow of Warehouse ................................................................................................................. 56
PROJECT I - Cutting project..........................................................................................................57

PROJECT II - Sewing project..........................................................................................................68

APPENDIX - I...............................................................................................................................123

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Apart from our joint efforts, the success of this whole internship and projects depended largely on
the encouragement and guidance of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude
to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of the project and whose
contribution in assorted ways to the internship project deserves special mention.

We would like to express our immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to BGMEA university,
Dhaka for giving us an opportunity to pursue our apparel internship at one of the highly esteemed
organization.

Firstly we would like to thank our mentor Mr. Shivendra Shukla General Manager of CFDL level 1
unit of Beximco for his immense support, guidance and supervision at every point of our internship
period that not only helped us in accomplishing our project but also made us understand the actual
scenario of working in a garment industry.

Also, we would like to record our deepest sense of gratitude to Mr. Mazhar, from the central
industrial engineering department of Beximco, for his supervision, advice, valuable support and
guidance from the very early stage of the course of our internship, which enabled us to proceed in
the right direction and accomplish the mission of our visit. We are thereby thankful to him for taking
the pain to go through the project and make necessary corrections as and when needed.

We would like to thank our college mentor, Mr. Ranjan kumar Saha for always being available to
address any doubts concerning the internship and guiding us along the way. It is because of his
guidance and constant supervision that we have been able to collect and learn the required
information regarding our project.

We would also express our sincere thanks to Mr. Namzul (IE) and Mr. Ripon (Planning) for their co-
operation and precious inputs on each and every step of our internship.
Finally, we would like to thank everybody who was important to the successful realization of this
internship, as well as expressing an apology that we could not mention everyone here.

Thank You!

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ABOUT THE COMPANY
The Bangladesh Export Company Limited, commonly known by its trade name BEXIMCO, is
a multinational conglomerate holding company headquartered in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was
founded in the 1970s. Beximco is Bangladesh's largest conglomerate, with the largest market
capitalisation on the country's stock market. BEXIMCO's subsidiaries export products to 103
countries worldwide. It has retail outlets in South Asia and Eastern Europe.
Beximco operates one of the largest integrated textile production businesses in Asia. It is also a
major global exporter of Jute yarn. Its chief manufacturing base is the Beximco Industrial Park
in Gazipur, Bangladesh. Beximco has in-house textile and apparel units.
Under Beximco group, other than textiles there are10 apparel manufacturing units with centralised
merchandising, Fabric and trim store, sampling, CAD, Embroidery, Laboratory, washing and
warehouse.

HISTORY
The company was founded by brothers A. S. F. Rahman and Salman F Rahman in 1972, soon after
the establishment of the Bangladeshi Republic. Their family was earlier engaged in the jute industry
of East Pakistan, which once the world's largest jute producer and exporter. The family business was
affected by a nationalisation program in Bangladesh during the early 1970s. However, with free
market reforms in the late 1970s and 1980s, the family regained many of their businesses.
Since the 1970s, Beximco has been a pioneer in Bangladeshi industry, including the modern textile
sector, pharmaceuticals, ceramics and information and communication technology.
In 2005, Beximco Pharma became the first Bangladeshi company to list on the Alternative
Investment Market of the London Stock Exchange. It also opened its first overseas retail outlet with
the launch of the Yellow clothing brand in Karachi, Pakistan. Yellow has since expanded to several
Bangladeshi and Pakistani cities. In 2009, Shinepukur Ceramics opened a showroom in Moscow,
Russia. In 2010, the company acquired stakes in several major Bangladeshi businesses, including IFIC
Bank, GMG Airlines, The Independent newspaper and Unique Hotels and Resorts.
The company is considered to enjoy close connections with the Awami League, with Salman F
Rahman serving as a Private Sector Development Affairs Adviser to Prime Minister and Bangladesh
Awami League President Sheikh Hasina, the current Prime Minister of Bangladesh.

CRESCENT FASHION & DESIGN LTD.

Parent Company Beximco Group

Head Office Beximco Industrial Park
Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur
Bangladesh
Group Chairman Mr. A S F Rahman
(BEXIMCO Group)

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 Chief Executive Officer ( CEO) Mr. Sayed Naved Husain
Head of Factory SHIVENDRA SHUKLA
General Manager
Factory Address Crescent Fashion & Design Ltd.
Beximco Industrial Park
Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh
Tel: (880-2)5 8618220-7, 57701186, 57701165-6
Fax: (880-2) 7701164
Date of Incorporation September 2003

Total Area of Factory 83,104 Sq. ft

A-Shift 7.30 am to 6.30 pm (1 hour lunch break)
Office Timing
B-Shift 7.30 p.m to 6.30 a.m
5 (Five)
Total Number of Exit
3540 (Male=1912- 54% Female=1628- 46%)
Total Manpower Production Worker=2975, Non Production=565

Products and customers

Primary products - All types of bottoms

Major Markets Main Customers Products by Customers

Present Customers:
 INDITEX
 Arcadia Bottom
Europe
 Primark
 C&A
 Li & Fung
USA  Wal-Mart Bottom
 PVH

DELIVERY SCHEDULE
Average Processing Time (from Approval to Ready for Shipment) that is lead time is generally 60-
120 days.

DELIVERY METHODS & AVERAGE TIME TO ANY PORT

Country
USA Europe

Method
Sea Air Sea Air
Days 30-35 3-7 30-37 2-5

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DEPARTMENT DISTRIBUTION IN THE PLANT

SL No Departments Heads
1 General Manager Mr. Shivendra Shukla
2 Factory Manager Mr. Zahidul
3 Warehouse and Raw materials Mr. Akiad
4 Merchandising Ms. Maria
5 Sampling and CAD Mr. Ravi
6 Marker making Mr. Syed
7 Maintenance Mr. Aminul
8 Planning Mr. Sirish
9 Industrial Engineering Mr. Biswa
10 Human Resource Mr. Sayed
11 Cutting Mr. Delahadali
12 Sewing Mr. Mukhtar &Kabir
13 Finishing Mr. Ahasan
14 Embroidery Mr. Aminul Islam
15 Washing Mr. Jawad
16 Quality assurance Mr. Reza

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 DEPARTMENTAL STUDY

MERCHANDISING
Merchandiser is the interface between Buyer & production team. Department is responsible from
order analysis to shipment. The merchandiser’s role is to oversee the order right from the time the
order is received from the buyer till calculating the account profitability and shipment. A garments
merchandiser in order to complete the order coordinates with buyer, various departments within
the organization, suppliers, and job worker’s logistics outside the company. BEXIMCO majorly caters
to following buyers from different countris

European market USA & Canada

H &M American Eagle
C&A Wal-mart
Bershka Dickies
Zara J C Penny
Pull & Bear Kohl's
River Island Target corp.
Macy
Charming soap
Michael kros
YM Canada
In Beximco, Different teams are designated for different buyers with one general manager
headed by continent head.

Department structure

Continent head

General Manager (Brand wise)

Costing Sampling Fabric Trim Data tex

merchandiser merchandiser merchandiser merchandiser operator

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Work flow of department

Merchandising activities

 To get order: Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order.
Fixed buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer and
that particular merchant.

 Costing and Negotiation: Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality
of material and their requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of
the merchandiser. To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are
taken into consideration

Procedure For Costing

1. Merchandiser prepares requisitions for fabric, trims and accessories after receiving tech
pack, or sketch, whichever is available at the time. Latest version of document is to be
used as reference. After every update from buyer, this step is to be repeated and due
processes followed in course thereof

2. Merchandiser sends requisitions to procurement. For internally sourced fabric, requisition

is sent to Beximco fabric mills

3. Procurement users check if trims and accessories are available, if costing data is available,
they enter costing details, else supplier is asked to provide price.

4. Fabric Mills provide fabric cost for pocketing, shell, interlining fabrics.

5. IE provides SMV values based on sample, sketch and quantity (if available). SMV should
be reviewed and revised if needed in case of any changes in these values. Washing IE
personnel will collect Washing cost from RRWL in case of washed garments and provide

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 cost breakup for washing. If subcontract cost is associated, same should be informed to
merchandiser.

6. MIS collects fabric cost from mills and consumption figures from CAD. Fabric costing
information in the form of fabric cost sheet is shared with fabric team in merchandising.

7. Commercial, financial and logistics cost, if any, are obtained from respective departments.
Merchandiser collates the information and builds initial costing. Pre costing should be ready
before order negotiation with buyer, approximate values can be used where actual costs are
not available, especially in the case of trims

8. Costing may get revised in the process of order negotiation and sample approvals, in such
cases approval must be taken by merchandiser from CEO, in case CEO is not available COO
approval may be taken. If approval is obtained, it is submitted to buyer for approval.

 Sampling: Merchandiser is involved in coordinating with the sampling department. Based on

the mutual agreement between the merchant and the buyer, sampling department is involved
in making samples. In every step of samples, buyer sends back comments along with the tech
pack.

 Fabric/garment package test: For the final confirmation of order, fabric is sent for testing in
nominated laboratory where shade, tearing strength, colour fastness is test and report is sent
to buyer. Example- Nominated lab for C & A buyer is Bureau veritas, SGS, Intratec

 Order confirmation: After the approval of all the samples, the order is confirmed by the buyer.
Merchandiser receives the PO sheet. Merchandising department communicates with planning
and production departments and decides for the possible delivery date for the required
quantity.

 Fabric and trims booking: Once the order is confirmed, fabric and trims are booked and fabric
sample is sent for lap dip.

 Preparing the bill of material: This enlists all the different materials required for making the
garment.

 Execution: Merchandising department communicates with the buyer QA during the production.
He gets the approval of the quality or any changes in the garment.

 Shipment of goods: According to delivery date the goods are shipped on time. Documentation
department is informed about the delivery date, the quantity etc. In case of any delay, goods
are sent through air on the company’s cost. For each order, the merchant has to prepare a file
containing all the details and relevant documents which is passed on to the subsequent stages
in the production process for reference purposes.

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Documentation in merchandising department

Details of the file prepared by the merchant:

1. Style Specification: contains a brief description of the style.

2. Style #: As mentioned by the buyer.
3. Buyer: Name of the buyer.
4. Merchant: Name of the merchant handling the style.

Content of the file:

1. Purchase order for the style.

2. Garment tech pack.
3. Relevant communication with the buyer regarding proto, fit and pre-production samples.
All the comments from the buyer for various samples are included.
4. Thread consumption report.
5. Fabric Test Report.
6. Fabric and trim cards: Contains swatches of the fabric and trims to be used.
7. Mini marker with costing average.

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CENTRAL SAMPLING

Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the approval of future orders from
buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or export company. Sampling is one of key
elements of the pre-production processes in a garment industry. Before a manufacturer produces
bulk orders, a prior sampling of styles is done to get approvals and jumpstart the fabrication of
garments.

There is a separate Centralised sampling department in Beximco which deals with sampling
procedures and deals with merchandisers and production team for all the unit under Beximco.

Purpose of Sampling
 To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
 To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
 To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations.

Stages of sampling

Proto Sample

Development Sample Centralised Sampling

department

Fit Sample

Pre Production Sample

Size set sample

CFDL Level-1 sampling

Top Sample department

Shipment Sample

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1. Proto sample:
Sampling department gets the Tech pack given by the buyer and a request form from the
merchandising department for making the Fit sample. This is the first sample in the sampling
stages. This sample is made with the already available fabric which is the nearest substitute of
the actual fabric to be used. The styling and construction has to be same. The order is not yet
confirmed from the buyer’s end.

Size Average (Generally medium)

Quantity 3-5 pieces(depending on the buyer)
Material Nearest substitute of fabric
Stages at which
At which manufacturer is still trying to confirm the style and get an order
it is sent
Purpose To finalize styling, construction and converting design into garment

2. Development sample: Merchandising team gives request form and buyer's comment on fit
sample to the sampling department. According to comments given by buyers, development
sample is made and sent to the buyer.

Size Average (Generally medium)

Quantity 3-5 pieces(depending on the buyer)
Material Nearest substitute of fabric
Stages at which it is sent After the proto sample, buyer's comments are entertained
Purpose When there is changes in styling and construction
The order is confirmed once the proto sample is approved. The manufacturer then places the
order with the fabric supplier for the next sampling stages as well as for the bulk production.

3. Fit sample: Once Development sample is approved, fit sample is made with actual
measurement. It is made to finalise the fit and construction. It is made on the actual fabric. If the
buyer is not satisfied with the fit of the sample, he asks for adjustments in the measurements.
Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. Sometimes, the fit sample
has to be made 2-3 times before the buyer gives the approval.

Size Average (depends on buyer)

Material Actual fabric, any trims
Stages at which it is sent After Development sample
. Refining a fit & construction from either prototype or make
Purpose changes to these samples as required in the design.

The order is confirmed once the Fit sample is approved. The manufacturer then places the order
with the fabric supplier for the next sampling stages as well as for the bulk production.

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4. PP (Pre-Production) sample

This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sampling team of
CFDL Level-1. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical
persons) prior to proceeding actual production.

Size Average (depends on buyer)

Material Actual fabric, trims and value addition works
Stages at which it is
When the initial yardage of bulk fabric is received
sent
This is for buyer’s reference that how will the garment look like finally
Purpose
when it will be made on the production floor

5. Size set sample

This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sampling team of
CFDL Level-1.This is made to check graded patterns in all the sizes.

Size All sizes

Material Actual fabric, trims and value addition works
Stages at which it is sent After approval of pp sample
Purpose To check grading of patterns

6. TOP (Top of Production) sample

This sample is made by sampling team of CFDL Level-1.This is made during the bulk production of
garments.

Size Depends on buyer

Material Actual fabric, trims and value addition works
Stages at which it is sent During Actual production of garments
Actual quality and specifications of production is checked by the
Purpose
buyers

7. Shipment sample : This sample is made before the shipment is done.

Size Average (depends on buyer)

Material Actual fabric, trims and value addition works
Stages at which it is sent Before shipment
Purpose Buyer checks final specifications actual packaging of garments

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Sampling activities

Merchandiser gives Bag man Search

tech pack and fabric and trims Makes basket with
sample request according to marker and fabric
form to planners specification

Handovers the
Planners read and Planners gives Merchandisers send
basket with marker
understand the tech patterns and tech the sample to
and fabric to cutting
pack pack to bag man buyers
supervisors

Handovers the
Planners give tech Final patters are basket with trims, Planners gives the
pack and details to handed over to cut panels and tech sample to
pattern makers planners pack to sewing merchandisers
supervisors

Pattern makers After sewing,

Markers are then Samples are
make the patterns samples are then
given for printing handover to
and markers on checked, washed
using plotters planners
lectra and finished

Manpower Distribution

General manager 1
No of Planners 8
No of pattern makers 42
No of bag man 5
No of Cutting Supervisors 1
Manpower in cutting 19
No of cutting machine straight knife 3
No of cutting machine round knife 3
No of cutting table 4
No of lines in sewing 20
No of machine in sewing 364
Total machine operator 129

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Types of machines in centralized sampling
There are 20 regular and 1 specialised central line in the sampling department which is dedicated
to develop samples at all the stages for all the units under Beximco. All 20 lines in sewing floor is
dedicated to different buyers.

Line details No. of machines

6 SNLS
2 DNLS
2 Over lock
Line 1-18 (for 1 feed of the arm
woven garments) 1 SNCS
4 flat lock
4 Over lock
1 SNCS
Line 19-20 (for 1 bar tack
knitted garments) 1 feed of arm
1 6 thread O/L
11 Kansai m/c -(cover stitch, smoking , waist band, box
placket, elastic stitching, loop making)
1 eyelet machine
Specialised 1 button stitch
Central line 1 zigzag machine
1 blind hem
4 bar-tack machine (3 for woven garments and 1 for
knitted garments)

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CENTRAL PLANNING
 The central planning department of Beximco is responsible for planning of the production of
every style by reviewing its feasibility and available capacity of all the 6 units of Beximco.
 The apparel planning of all the 6 units under central planning is being headed by Mr. Shirish
Gupta (Sr. Manager) and Mr Nalinda (Planning Manager).
 MQM (Machine Queue Management) software is used by planners for scheduling of various
DPI (order)

Department structure

MQM
planner
Senior
Apparel Planning Planning
Planning
Planner Manager Incharge
Manager
Central Datatex
COO
Planning operator
Textile
Planners

Process Flow

Start of production plan Set fabric Freeze plan

Drafting of business by creating sewing and requirement as 6 capacity plan
Plan cutting DISPO- smv and days before finalized sent
yy within 24 hours of cutting start date to factory
order receiving

Merchandiser Receive plan

receives order Perform scheduling creation and
confirmation mail Planner downloads daily on MQM system approval
(PO details) reports of a new & (update thrice daily) (decided on
modified order (Planning delayed order)
Head to ensure)

DPI (data tex Final MQM

Performa invoice) Assign line as per schedule (
booking Updating booking the factory production floor
(Merchandiser) status board selected in DISPO finalised )

if any problem
Generate an article occurs then again
inform dispo maker If not then
according to YY DISPO number Monthly plan
(fabric to modify dispo-
creation again start fabric issued in three
consumption) ways
dispo creation

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 Roles and Responsibilities

 Drafting of yearly business plan: Based on previous years’ buyer-wise production and revenue
generation, targeted product wise, buyer wise sales and revenue generation for current is
determined and capacity is made available based on that.

 Co-ordinating with merchandisers: The capacity booking for a booking for a particular order is
done by the merchandiser on a particular date for a particular factory only after approval of
central planning. Central planning studies the ongoing and upcoming orders buyer wise gives the
priority according to the ex-factory date and then approves the order booking and dpi creation to
merchandiser.

 DISPO creation: Based on article code of a particular order generated by merchandiser and YY
approval (IE calculates SMV, fabric and trims consumption), DISPO (Datatex index system for
purchase order) number is created based on trim and fabric booking receipt.

 Reverse calculation of every order is done based on order ex-factory date and process wise lead
time and based on that factory wise sewing line plan, cutting plan, finishing plan are made.

 Making of monthly plan: Provisional monthly plan is made based on available order of a
particular season and then this plan sent to respective general managers of every factory and
review of that plan is done if any changes are suggested by general manager then again a final
freeze capacity plan is made and sent to factory 5 days prior to line start.

 MQM schedule: Using MQM software (Material queue management), scheduling of orders in
factory sewing line is done by the central planning team.

This MQM software is designed in co-ordination with datatex software. As soon as dispo number
is created in datatex, the order is directly available in bin section of MQM of a particular factory
and is ready to load. So based on monthly available orders, scheduling is done.

 Order cancellation report: If any order gets cancelled due to any reason, central planning need
to cancel the DISPO number, prepare loss statement report and consider it in capacity booking
statements and monthly plans.

 Update booking board: The order booking board is updated and refreshed twice a day and that
window is visible directly to chairman, CEO, COO and all the respective merchandisers.

 Tracking of production: The planned production and achieved production of every order in every
factory is compared and variance report is made for every factory and reasons are identified for
any major variances based on which losses are calculated and actions are taken.

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 Co-ordinating with fabric planning and procurement team: The material inward plan date is
given by fabric planning and procurement based on cutting date is fixed and in case of any delay,
changes in the monthly plan are made after co-ordinating with the respective teams.

 Monitor pending process flow: Continuous monitoring of order production stage is tracked and
is made to follow the plan as much as possible.

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 Department wise lead time

Fabric store

5 days

Cutting section

If value
Embroidery section add Printing section
process

2 days 2 days

Sewing section

2 days Special
1
wash
day
6 Normal
After sewing days wash
value add
Washing
process section 4
1 day
day Garment
Denim dyeing
wash
Finishing section

Quality
control

Poly bag/ packing

1
day

Buyer Qc
inspection

Ex - Factory

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 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

The I.E. department is headed by Mr. Viswa and has got Mr. Mazhar as Executive. The job of this
department is to plan for style allocation in the line, the layout plan, standard minutes calculation,
formulation of operation breakdown, costing of CMT as per SAM, R&D and work study
applications.
Basically, the IE department is divide into two parts:
a) Central IE: The department that is manages and heads the factory IE of all the 6 units.
b) Factory IE: The department that manages the job and responsibilities of one particular floor.

Checklist
A) Central I.E

Sr. No. Name Input/In-process/Output

1. SMV requisition from merchandiser by ERP Input

2. Sketch/ Proto sample along with Tech-pack Input

3. Receive factory wise production report Input

4. Create new process SMV by GSD In-process
5. Update SMV Data bank in excel In-process
6. SMV Requisition sheet Output
7. Mail datatex reference number Output
8. Operation Bulletin Output
9. Machine Layout Output
10. Work study report Output
11. Factory wise efficiency report Output
12. Manpower utilisation report Output
13. Machine purchase Indent Output

B) Factory I.E:

Sr no. Name Input/in-process/output

1. Monthly plan from central planning Input
2. Operation bulletin and machine layout Input
3. Measurement sheet Input
4. Order file (with sample) Input
5. Machine change list In-process
6. Feeding plan In-process
7. Machine Requisition In-process
8. Store Requisition In-process
9. Operator skill matrix In-process
10. Time study report In-process
10. Maintenance Report with Change over time Output
11. Non-productive time report Output

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 12. Operator Skill Matrix Output
13. Operator up gradation report Output
14. Line efficiency report Output
15. Capacity study report Output
16. Hourly production report Output
17. Style wise output report Output

Process Flow

Start

Training, selection Production Dept. Pre-prod. activities Systems

& development development
Prepare O.B
Selection of
operators, helpers, Calculate accessories
supervisors, Hourly production consumption
checkers, QC, etc. tracking
Line balancing

Capacity study

Efficiency calculation

Skill matrix Time study Capacity Performance

Utilization calculation

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Line setup process

Operation is assigned to All cutters are tied with

Line is set as per line layout machines and tables from
operators as per their skill
plan safety point of view
level

QA , enline and inline checkers

Line in charge & supervisor Required SPI, thread tension
ascertain whether the quality
give the direction to the and needle number is
coming out from each
operators about their checked by supervisors and
operation is as per the quality
respective jobs mechanic as per requirement
specification

When major problem arises

The line supervisor checks in the line during production
The supervisor also ensures the hourly production of then quality people put the
that necessary thread, label each part of the garment and check point over there for
and tapes are available with also checks the daily finding the reason for the
operator production status. problem and solving the
problem.

Roles and responsibilities

A) Central IE
 To calculate SMV for new style using GSD (std min value= Basic time+ allowances i.e.
15%).
 To make operation bulletin.
 To prepare machine layout plan based on style
 Procurement and purchasing/renting of machines if needed.
 To conduct work study for improvement if there is reoccurring production loss.
 Capacity study of each unit.
 To check production feasibility by co-ordinating with buyer.
 To identify steps to increase production efficiency.
B) Factory I.E
 On floor line balancing.
 Line setup based on new style and recording of down time.
 Thread consumption calculation of each operation based on SPI.
 Manpower allocation based on skill matrix generation.
 Training of operators to enhance the quality, reduce the bottlenecks.
 Grading of operators based on their performance and performance calculation.
a) A grade operator: Performance>65%
b) B grade operator:
c) C grade operator:
24 | P a g e
  Capacity utilization.
 Efficiency utilization.
 Setting of IE target.
 Hourly production reporting.
 Identify bottlenecks and eliminate it.
 To identify steps to increase efficiency.
 Non productive time calculation
 WIP reporting.

Operation Bulletin
It is prepared in the excel format where in all the operations involved in that garment making are
listed out along with SAM of the operation and machines required for those operation. Operation
bulletin also contains some other parameters as follows:

 Output (pieces per day)

 Target efficiency
 Manual operation Minute.
 Machine operation minute.
 Total standard time
 Total no of work stations.
 No of individual machines required.
 Types of folder used.
 Needle size.
With total calculation this operation bulletin gives the duration to stitch the garment with 100%
efficiency –SAM (Standard allowed Minute), then this SAM (100% efficiency) is multiplied with the
efficiency slab (based on order quantity) to calculate the run time for the order.

OB format contains: Operation bulletin contains following information.

Daily working hours Operation description

Target output per day or per hour Machine description
Total SAM SAM @ 100% Efficiency
OB prepared by (Name of the Engineer) SAM @ target efficiency%
M/C code Calculated production per hour
Name of the Folder and attachment Calculated no. of machines
Actual no. of machines Estimated production per unit hours
Machine summary list Remarks

OB Preparation
 Step 1: Prepare the operation breakdown for the garment.
 Step 2: Identify the machine type required along with folders, guides or attachments based on
the seams needed to produce the required style.
 Step 3: Enter the SMV value of the operation from the GSD software available.
 Step 4: calculate production/hr @ 100% and target efficiency from the formula:
-Calculated Production/Hour @100% efficiency= 60/operation SMV @100% efficiency

25 | P a g e
 -Calculated Production/Hour @target efficiency= 60/operation SMV @target efficiency
 Step 5: Calculate number of machines required.
-Calculated Machine number= (SMV @target efficiency*Daily production target/total minutes
in a shift day)
 Step 6: The actual no of machines required is determined by rounding off the theoretical no of
machines.
 Step 7: Calculate estimated production per hour:
-Estimated Production/Hour = (No. of machine assigned * Hourly target qty.)/Calculated no. of
machines.
 Step 8: Create a machine summary table. This table will help you to quickly find how many
actual machines are required for each machine types.

Formulas Chart

1. Daily Line Target = (Total working minutes in a day X No. of operators in a line X Line
efficiency %) /Garment SMV

2. Individual operator target = (Total working minutes in a day X line efficiency %) /Operation
SMV
3. Individual operator Efficiency% = (units produced X operation SMV X 100)/Total minutes
worked

4. Line Efficiency% = (Line output X garment SMV X 100)/(Number of Operators X minute

worked in a shift)
5. Machine productivity= Line output/no. of total machines used in line
6. Labour Productivity = Line output / No. of total manpower (operators +helpers)

7. Line WIP (work in process) = Total pieces lie on the line for a particular order line

8. Standard Time = (Observed time X observed rating) + Allowances – Relaxation allowance,

contingency allowance

9. Machine utilization% = (Actual Machine running Time X 100) / Time available

10. Cost per minute = Total cost incurred in manpower / Total available minutes in a shift/
number of manpower

11. Production Cost pet unit = Total cost incurred in production in a day/ no. of garment
produced in a day

12. Man to Machine ratio = Total manpower of the factory / Total number of Sewing
machines(utilized)

26 | P a g e
 LEARNING CURVE FOR THE NEW STYLES FROM 100% SMV
1st 2nd 4th 5th
3rd Day
Day Day Day Day
Below 18.00 35 % 45 % 70 % 75% PAHF/PANT
Shorts/
18.00-30.00 25 % 35 % 70 % PAHF/PANT
Pant
Shorts/
30.01-35.00 20 % 40 % 55 % 65 % PAHF/PANT
Pant
Trousers/Chino
pant/Dress Pant
Below 25.00 20 % 35 % 45 % 70 % TRSR
25.00-30.00 15 % 35 % 45 % 65 % TRSR
30.00-35.00 15 % 30 % 45 % 65 % TRSR
35.01-45.00 10 % 20 % 40 % 65 % TRSR Trouser
Fashion Pant
Below 20.00 20 % 35 % 50 % 70 % PANF
20.00-30.00 15 % 30 % 45 % 65 % PANF
30.00-40.00 10 % 25 % 40 % 60 % PANF
40.00 Above 0% 15 % 30 % 45 % 60 % PANF
Cargo Pants
Cargo
Below 35.00 15 % 30 % 45 % 65 % CARG
Pants
Cargo
35.01-45.00 10 % 20 % 40 % 60 % 65 % CARG
Pants
Cargo
45.01-55.00 10 % 20 % 35 % 55 % 60 % CARG
Pants
Cargo
55.00-65.00 0% 10 % 25 % 40 % 55 % CARG
Pants
Cargo
65.00 Above 0% 5% 20 % 45 % 50 % CARG
Pants
Skirts
Below 18.00 30 % 40 % 65 % SKRT Skirts
18.00-30.00 20 % 30 % 45 % 65 % SKRT Skirts
30.01-35.00 15 % 25 % 45 % 65 % SKRT Skirts
35 Above 10% 20% 40% 60% SKRT Skirts
Note:
1. If new input is similar to running style and need not change machine layout then first output of new style will be considered as
of 2nd Day.
2. Changes from top to bottom, bottom to top, bottom to Jacket, Woven to Knit and Knit to Woven, then above learning curve
will not be applicable.
3.For matching of check, plaid, stripes, naps and in case of fabric like double layer, tensil, viscose, satin etc, learning curve will be
given on the basis of complicacy of fittings and matching.

27 | P a g e
 FABRIC AND TRIMS STORE
Almost 85% fabrics used in CFDL is in-house manufactured in the company named Beximco
Textiles limited (BTL), Beximco Knitting limited (BKL) and Beximco denim limited (BDL). Trims like
labels are also manufactured in-house and other trims are outsourced from local or international
markets.(Majorly trims are outsourced from Hong-Kong, China, Indonesia etc)

In Beximco, there is one central fabric and one trim store which caters to requirements of all the
apparel division under Beximco. and there is one separate fabric and trim store which is for all 5
factories of CFDL. Central stores issues fabric and trims to factory store according to planning
given by central planning department.

Fabric in warding process

Factory planning send BOM to

store as per monthly plan dates

Factory Store assess material

requirement and request
central store if needed

Central store check availability of

materials

Available Not Available

Send material to fabric store Inform factory planning and

send e-mail to merchandising

Factory store
check Quality Merchandiser coordinates with
procurement team and makes
the material available
Not OK OK

send complain Stacking to rack/palette

to central store basis availability

28 | P a g e
Trims in warding process

Trim store receive trim

sheet from factory planning

Trim store give trim sheet to

central store

Factory trim store

Receive trims from central

store (usually in 1-2 days)

Trims Inspection (10%)

Trim store make trim card

and send for approval to
merchandiser Cutting of bulk
fabric completed

If approved, Trim store issue Input man takes cutting summary

sewing trims to input man and store requisition form to trim
store for collecting sewing trims.
input man counts 100% trims

After sewing and washing of garments,

Issue finishing trims to
finishing supervisor finishing supervisor takes store
requisition for collecting finishing trims
and counting of 100% trims is done

29 | P a g e
Trim Inspection Trim card
report

Cutting summary Store requisition form

30 | P a g e
(CAD) COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT
Purpose of CAD Department

 To Develop patterns accurately and precisely

 To make changes in pattern at various stages of sampling
 To add shrinkage in patterns
 To make marker for bulk cutting
All patterns are made in sampling department during sampling only those patterns are sent to
CAD department.

Software Used: Lectra For pattern making: Modern V6R1

For marker making: Diamino VSR4

Software Used for Plotter: Jindex inkjet Plotter;model:JET-SOAR

Work flow

Receive Fabric roll Receive basic patterns

Add shrinkage in basic from sampling department
shrinkage test report
patterns
from cutting
department

Grading of patterns done

Patterns sent for

development of size set
sample

Changes made in patterns

according to buyer's final patterns sent to
comment on size set cutting department for
sample cut order planning

Receive lay slip generated

from intellocut (cutting
department)

Marker making according

to lay slip
31 | P a g e
Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:

 Mode of spreading
 Width of the fabric available
 Shade variation
 Shrinkage along warp and weft
 Size ratio required
 Visual inspection

There are 7 types of marker planning

1. Group marker –According to shade of fabric pattern placed

2. Self Edge Marker – pattern should be in one line in denim.
3. Rise match Marker – Crotch should match.
4. Solid Marker - Any parts can be placed in any direction.
5. NAP down Marker – All marker in one way
6. Side Match Marker – All marker should match side seam, sleeve match, cuff match.
7. Check Match Marker – All front part markers should maintain centre line, no need in
back part.

The markers contain the following details:

 Style name
 Marker type
 Total garment patterns
 Sizes
 Width of marker
 Marker length
 Marker efficiency
 Date of print

32 | P a g e
SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT
This department is headed by Mr. Delahadali, as a cutting manager. The job of this department is to
convert fabric in to cut panels. It has got three manual spreading tables with end cutting machines.
Cutting is one of the major process in garments manufacturing. Here garment parts are cut
according to the pattern.

Work flow

Sends fabric Receives Spreading of

requisition to fabric marker from fabric
store CAD

Fabric Cutting using

Receives fabric rolls Lay slip is sent to
straight knife
from store CAD department
machine

Details are fed in Bundling of cut

Fabric Relaxation and intellocut software and panels
width measurement lay slip is generated

Bundles sent
for sewing
Swatches send for Receives graded Ticketing on the
Shrinkage test patterns from CAD panels
department

Recutting for
Sample blanket is defected
made and sent for Sends shrinkage and
Quality check of panels from
checking shade shade variation reports
panels remanant
variations to CAD department
fabric

Receipt of Fabric

Cutting Department receives fabric from fabric store department

along with following details

 Fabric defect report on the basis of 4-point fabric

inspection system
 Fabric construction details
 Width of fabric for each roll
 Face side of fabric
 Shade band card

33 | P a g e
  Shrinkage report
 Colour fastness report

Fabric relaxation

When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric
remains a slightly hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is
applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is
not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal
temperature and pressure for a certain time, the fabric absorbs
moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This
process is called fabric relaxation. Another cause of fabric
relaxation is to maintain the dimensional stability of produced
garments.

When the fabric is being processed in different finishing machines,

it goes under certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape.
But when the heat and pressure is being withdrawn, the shape may change. So, if the dimension
become stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very necessary
before cutting.

In CFDL Fabric is relaxed generally for 5-6 hours. During this this activity with of different fabric
rolls are also checked and confirmed. They also cut the swatches of different fabric rolls for
shrinkage and shade blanket test.

Fabric Inspection

4 point system is used for fabric inspection. Fabric check is generally done in central store or in the
beximco textile itself if the fabric is coming from BTL (Beximco Textiles limited or BDL (Beximco
Dyeing limited).

Shrinkage test

Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through
the process of laundry. Shrinkage test is done in initial phase only so that changes can be done in
the pattern according to results. The results of shrinkage test includes lengthwise and width wise
variation in fabric after test.

Basically shrinkage is checked by comparison of fabric of before wash and after wash. Shrinkage
testing is done by two methods

Shrinkage % = Measurement of swatch Before Wash – Measurement of swatch after wash

Measurement. Of swatch Before Wash

34 | P a g e
Procedure:

 Sample size of more than 35cm in length and 35cm in width taken from every roll of fabric.
 Marking of 35cm square is done and then over locking in done on each and every sample
for protecting the raw edges.
 Sample sent for washing followed by steaming and ironing.
 Final measurement is taken length wise and width wise.
Putting the values in the above mentioned equation shrinkage percentage is obtained in
both length and width wise.

Observations:

 Generally fabric get shrink after washing

 Shrinkage percentage is greater in width wise as compared to length wise.
 Fabric containing Spandex, Lycra tends to show more shrinkage after washing as compared
to purely cotton based fabric.

Shrinkage Standard (generally in Spandex, stretchable fabric)

Direction Shrinkage in cm
Length 0-4
Width 8-12

Shrinkage Standard (Cotton)

Direction Shrinkage in cm
Length 0-3
Width 0-3
Quality control supervisor analysing
the shade blanket
 Shade Blanket: Square Swatches of various lot/rolls of
fabric of same style no. are collected and stitched together using over lock m/c and is sent to the
washing. Later, after wash shade variations in the sample is checked.
 Shade Band: Swatches of various lot/rolls of fabric of same style no. are collected and washed
and then compare the shade variation with before wash swatch with the after wash swatch
and shrinkage% is checked.


INTELLOCUT
IntelloCut is an enterprise material management system for the sewn product industry. It saves
direct raw material, effort and time at multiple stages of production. IntelloCut software is
developed by Threadsol Softwares Pvt. Ltd.

35 | P a g e
In BEXIMCO Intellocut software was installed in 2017. Its prime features are:

1. Accurate Estimations:

 Intello Cut helps to estimate fabric requirement accurately with the help of its advanced
algorithms and actual data analysis.
 Helps in estimating the actual needed fabric - no more, no less and least wastage.

2. Cut plan

 Generates the most suitable and optimized cut plan from millions of possible combinations. In
just one click!
 The solution has been specially designed to handle multiple colours, multiple fabrics, large
quantities, large number of sizes and quantities with no ratio
 Intello Cut provides options to enter preferred markers; make manual changes and reuse
historical data from a library of markers.

3. Fabric Grouping

 Groups similar width, shade and shrinkage in order to ensure high standards of quality and
increased profitability.
 User can choose multiple levels of grouping based on fabric width, shade, shrinkage (length and
width) and fabric delivery dates
 Intello Cut also provides specialized grouping for stock fabrics to ensure minimum groups
considering first in first out (FIFO) based fabric storage duration.
 User friendly drag and drop based editing options for manual changes in fabric grouping.

4. Roll Allocation

 Allocates fabric rolls in a single click. Analyzes, creates and re-adjusts to ensure minimum end-
bits and wastage.

5. Remnants

 Plans fabric till the last end bit easily yet effectively with just a single click of a button.

6. Reporting

 Gives complete control over factory's practices by getting real time status and complete
tracking.

36 | P a g e
Work-flow of Intellocut software

Insert basic and

graded pattern
(along with
shrinkage)
consumptions Insert fabric
Insert each and
width, shade,
every fabric roll
and fabric
length
receiving dates

Insert total
Insert data of
order quantity , INTELLOCUT
remnant fabric
fabric type, size SOFTWARE from each roll
and colour ratio

Estimates the actual fabric needed.

Allocates fabric rolls by analysing their length and

width to ensure minimum end-bits and wastage.

Generates the most suitable and optimized cut plan in

form of lay slip

Spreading

The normally used spreading mode is NOW/FOW i.e. nap one way and face one way. The machine
used for cutting is straight knife. This department has got a system of 100% inspection of cut
panels and the panels with either of fabric or cutting defect is replaced on the part change table.

Spreading of the lay is done manually by the help of six helpers and spreading supervisors. Out of
six, two helpers are at the two ends of the lay from which one use the round knife to cut the fabric
and another will work as end catcher. Three (depending on the lay length) helpers are used to

37 | P a g e
removes the wrinkles and creases while spreading the fabric with the help of carton stick. One
helper is used to grab the fabric end from one end and give it to end catcher.

The number of plies in one lay and the lay length are pre decided in the marker planning. The
cutting loss is around 2-3%. The wastages come out to be 15%, the wastage is sold off. (Depending
on the size of the remaining cut pieces).

In case of different shades or colours, some spreading sheet must be used for accurate ticketing
and bundling. Example: For one lay of 100 plies of 11 yards length (1 yards equals to 36 inches) the
average time for spreading is 30 – 40 minutes and for cutting, ittake20 - 30 minutes.

 Spreading operator receives lay report consisting of following details:

1. Purchase Order
2. Style Number
3. Lay Number
4. Lay method –Face up / Face to face
5. Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing
6. Colour / Shade
7. Lot quantity
8. Marker name
9. Marker length
10. Lay length
11. Usable fabric width
12. No of plies to be spread
13. Consumption

Activities
 Spreading operator observes lay report generated from CAD section for above-mentioned
detail.
 Operator receives fabric roll from fabric receipt section as per lay details.
 Operator sets the machine parameter as per lay details. For instance, lay length, no of plies;
spreading method and end catcher start point.
 Operator observe fabric behaviour i.e.
o Fabric composition
o Stretch -warp way & weft way
o Fabric stability
 Operator spreads one ply and check marker length and width of fabric
 Operator spreads 2 to 3 plies & observes for wrinkle or stretch of fabric. Accordingly, he adjusts
the counter weights in forward or backward direction.
 After completion of each roll; operator mentions following details in INTELLOCUT spreading /
laying report:-
38 | P a g e
 o Roll reference number
o Fabric roll width
o Fabric usable width
o Fabric roll length
o Colour /shade code
o Usage in Yards
o Balance quantity in Yards and inches

LIST OF MACHINERY
SL No M/C Name Brand / Model No Total M/C Qty

1. Straight knife cutting Eastman model /KMA 10

Machine
2. Cutting Table Local 3
(Length-25 yards)

3. Cutting Gloves Eastman 10 Sets

4. End Cutter Machine Eastman 3

5. Fabric Inspection Mega 1
Machine
6. Drill Machine Gochi/ China 2

7. Inkjet Printer Jet Soar-185-B 1

Total 30

39 | P a g e
SEWING SECTION
The objective of sewing production process is to do perform sewing as per desired quality and
meet all production targets. Sewing section in the unit consists of two sections which
accommodate about 600 machines and distributed into 10 lines (Lines 1 to 5 has overhead
material handling system i.e. unit production system while line 6 to 10 follow manual progressive
bundle system).

Each line has 1 line chief and 2 supervisors monitoring the production and trying to balance the
line. There is 1 input man in each line which collects cut panels from cutting department and
sewing trims from trim store and feeds to line.

Activities in sewing room

 Feeding of cut panels
 Operations
 Checking of unfinished parts (in-line checking)
 Thread cutting
 Final inspection in the line
 Hand over final pieces to washing department

Machine types

SL No Machine

1. Bar tack M/c

2. Double needle angular AUTO
3. DNCS
4. Double needle fixed bar
5. Eyelet hole
6. Feed of the arm
7. Flat lock
8. Kansai m/c multi needle chain stitch
9. Over lock 4 thread
10. Over lock 5 thread
11. SNLS

40 | P a g e
 WORK FLOW OF DEPARTMENT

Receive cut fabric and cutting Receive Line layout, line

summary target, manpower distribution
from IE

Send cutting summary to store

with requisition Send requirement for machines
to maintenance

Trim store send accessories as

Maintenance Send folder and
per requirement
setup machines as required

Go ahead for sewing operation

Perform required back and

front part operations

Perform QC check for front and

back

Send in line Not OK

Perform required
for alterations assembly operations

OK

Thread trimming
inside and outside

Not OK
Send in line
Perform end line QC check
for alterations
OK

Entry of hourly output

Wash coordinator sends to washing section

41 | P a g e
Checklists (Documents & reports)

SL. No Name Input/ In-Process/ output

1 Cutting Summary Input
2 Bundle Card Input
3 Buyer Measurement Sheet Input
4 Line Layout from IE Input
5 First Bundle Quality Report Input
6 Store Requisition for Accessories and Thread In-Process
(SSR)

7 Store Requisition for production Stationary In-Process

8 Production Monitoring Sheet (Front) In-Process
9 Production Monitoring Sheet (Back) In-Process
10 Production Monitoring Sheet (Assembly) In-Process
11 Non Productive Time (NPT) Report In-Process
12 WIP Comparison Report (Shift Handover In-Process
Document)

13 QC Checklist In-Process
14 Inline Quality Report (Front Part) In-Process
15 Bundle Control Chart (Front Part) In-Process
16 Inline Quality Report (Back Part) In-Process
17 Bundle Control Chart (Back Part) In-Process
18 Inline Quality Report (Assembly) In-Process
19 Traffic Light Report In-Process
20 Daily Sewing Maintenance Log In-Process
21 Corrective Action Report In-Process
22 End Line Quality Report Output
23 QA Report Output
24 Input-Output Register (per Shift) Output
25 Pre and Post wash Measurement Output

42 | P a g e
WASHING DEPARTMENT
Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty and stain,
thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value, they are subjected to
cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning (PERC). Garments are sent for washing by the
production department as per the buyer’s requirement. Normally the fabrics are not asked to go
for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric department may internally sent it a number of other
reasons.

Introduction

 Beximco has a washing plant named RR washing ltd which performs the various dry and wet
processing activity of all 6 units and of all the products having denim, woven or knitting
material.
 The capacity of this plant is 60,000 garment / shift
 Machine capacity: 60-120kg
 Average Through-put time:
1. Garment dyeing: 3hrs
2. Dry + wet processing: 1hr 30 min
 The washing machines used are equipped for garment dyeing as well as normal washing.
Thus garment dyeing is also done when required.
 The recipes for washing and dyeing etc are developed by the testing lab during the testing of
the fabric and then handed to the washing department.
 Average cost of washing/garment: 40-80 cent.
 Total Manpower involved: 500

Process Flow

Washing Plan Sample Garment

Recipe creation
and schedule washing/dyeing Receiving

Bulk
Pre wash Dry processing batch
washing/Dyein
inspection (if required) preparartion
g

Post wash Re wash if Garment

inspection required Dispatch

43 | P a g e
Wet Processes

1. PERC or Dry Cleaning (DC) :

Every product is not subjected to PERC or DC process. Only those products which have stubborn
stains like that of oil and rust undergo this process. Mostly white or light coloured products that
are more vulnerable to staining are dry –cleaned. PERC gives them whiteness as well as shiny
appearance also.

2. Stone Wash:
This wash uses pumice stones added during the washing of products to act as an abradant. A more
or less uniform and prominent fading is seen in this wash. The degree of fading depends upon the
product to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones and load of product. Rotary type of drum is
used for about 1-2 hrs. Generally, 1-2 kgs. of stones is used for 1kg of product. It is usually carried
out with enzyme wash.
3. Enzyme wash:
Here enzymes are used to give even fading in the garment as enzyme attack the dye same at
every place. The fading depends on the time, type of enzyme used. Cellulase enzymes are
natural proteins which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the
denim garments without using stones or reducing the use of pumice stone. Cellulase attacks
primarily on the surface of the cellulose fiber, leaving the interior of the fibre as it is, by
removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fiber. Temperature is maintained at 40
degree Celsius.

4. Enzyme stone wash:

Here enzyme is used in liaison with stone to give more rugged look and thus advantage of both
stone and enzyme. The look becomes better along with being uniform. Time plays a major part.
It provides more option by change the ratio of enzyme to stone.

5. Bleaching:
Here the colour is intentionally faded by using the indigo dye with the Chlorine bleaches. The
garment fading depends the time of exposure to bleach while a prolonged exposure can
hamper the quality of fabric. This also depends on the liquor ratio. It can be done by various
bleaching agents such as Sodium hypo chlorite or Potassium permanganate. For neutralization
of bleach Meta bisulphate chemical is used. Temperature for bleaching is 50 degree Celsius.

6. Dyeing:
Piece dyeing is done using direct, discharge, sulphur, pigment or reactive dyes as per the
buyer requirement and required temperature for dyeing is 60-70 degree Celsius.

44 | P a g e
Dry processing

1. Hand Scraping: Here denim is scraped or rubbed with sand paper. It abrades the denim yarn
and makes the fabric look lighter in shade. The type of sand paper to be used depends on the
look required. Scraping is also used here to develop chevrons. For light 400 or 600 are used and
for heavy 320 or 220 are used.
Types of emery papers used in company are -220-very hard, 320-hard, 400-smooth, 600-very
smooth

2. Whiskering: These are the horizontal fold marks on front of the trouser by using scraping
method. A sand paper is rubbed on the fabric in the form of lines to create more natural look.
Here design pattern of desired design is made on the mould which is placed on planks. Workers
put mould in the denim to make whiskers.

3. Tagging: Here fabric folds are held together with the help of plastic tags. The tagged fabric is
undergoes scraping or washing to make the fabric folds look prominent. The fabric is first
folded in desired pleats and tagged with plastic tags and washed. It removes indigo dye from
the exposed fabric and gives prominent fabric and prominent fold marks.

4. Tearing: It can be done by various methods. The machines for effects are grinding machine and
pumice stone machine with whose help effects the desired effects are achieved. In hand
grinding garment is slightly damaged by removing surface yarn with the help of hand grinding
machine. Mark on the garment is grinded by hand grinding machine. In Wheel grinding the
edges of the garment like edge of the waist band, bottom hem, front pocket , back pocket/back
pocket cover are grinded by wheel grinding machine. Before washing grinding is done on
pocket corners or bottom hems and after wash it is done on surface of the body.

5. PP Spray: This wash is used to fade put the color randomly in from the garment which is hung
over vertical Penequins. Spray gun is used to spray KMnO4 to make out the required design.
KMnO4 oxidizes the dye from the applied area hence fading of color takes place. For
neutralisation of KMnO4, oxo-ammonium sulphate is used.

Types of Machines

Horizontal Washing Machine - This machine is being used for washing garments and fabric rolls.
Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash, bleaching for dye stripping are done is this
machine. Dyeing of greige fabric also takes place. The smaller capacity horizontal washing
machine is used for sampling department. Total number of machine: 30

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Front Loading Washing Machine - This machine is used for washing garments only. All types of
wash like normal, enzyme and softener wash can be done in this too. Fabric lots are not washed in
this machine because the fabric lots get entangled in front loaded machines. Total number of
front load machine: 45

Hydro-Extractor - The garments are wrung in these machines to remove excess water after
washing. The garments are spun in a drum, which rotates at high speed squeezing the water out
of them. This process takes about 2-3 minutes. Total number of hydro extractor machine: 17

Tumble Dryer - This machine evaporates out all the left over water from the garments making
rendering them completely dry. To prevent distortion of the knit garments often they are dried
flat i.e. they are laid out flat on racks in open and the remaining water is left to evaporate
naturally. According to the behavior the choice for drying method is made. Total number of
machine: 50

PERC Machine - This machine is used for dry-cleaning process. It uses steam, air pressure, Per
chloro Ethane solution and a specified temperature for different types of fabric garments. All the
processes including washing, drain, hydro, dry clean and cooling occur in the same machine.

Chemicals used
SR No Description Type
1. Acetic acid Acid
2. Sodium sulphate Salt
3. Sodium Carbonate Alkali
4. Sodium Hydroxide Alkali
5. Caustic Soda Alkali
6. Sodium sulphite Alkali
7. Sodium meta-bisulphite Neutralizer
8. Lava cone mex-02 Neutralizer
9. Hydroxyl ammonium sulphate Neutralizer
10. Citric acid Acid
11. Sodium perborate Detergent
12. Bleach singclone-65% Bleach Chlorine
13. Bleach K.C.I Bleach Chlorine
14. Hydrogen Peroxide-50% Oxidiser
15. Pumice stone Stone
16. Potassium Permanganate (potash) Oxidising agent
17. Sultafon D1 Detergent
18. Rewash APT Detergent
19. Fortress GDP Anti backstain
20. Seyko sperse SPW 801 CONC Anti backstain

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Enzymes

SR No Name Function
1. Ecozyme 15L Bio polishing agent
2. Hidros ted Bio polishing
3 Ecozyme ultra Neutral Enzyme
4. Lerzyme 330 Neutral Enzyme
5. Lava cell NHC cold Neutral Enzyme
6. Denilite 11S Laccas Enzyme
7. GZyme ultra Amylase

Chemicals used in Final wash

SR No Name Function

1. Ressoft A090 Antiozone softner

2. Elam 109 Antiozone softner

3. Geisoft WCS Non-ionic softener

4. Elam GRM CONC Cationic softener

5. Elam RP-CONC Silicon softener

6. Resilk MES Silicon softener

7. Jingen sis 60 (IT0003) Silicon softener

8. Rucofin GWE Silicon softener

9. Fern-ice Silicon softener

10. Skay white Optical brightening agent

11. Skay white BBU Optical brightening agent

12. Skay white 4BK Optical brightening agent

13. Legaflex zero Resin

14. Product PPUB new Finishing agent

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The process of making garments ready for packing process after they are received from washing or
sewing section by cutting loose threads, ironing . label attaching etc. and performing related
leading to achieving desired getup.

The main objective of finishing process is to perform finishing operations and make all garments
received from washing or sewing line (in case of non-wash) ready for packaging as per the buyer
requirements within the stipulated time.

Checklists

SR No Name Input/In-Process/Output
1 Chalan (from washing section) Input
2 Output register (from sewing section) Input

3 Primary QC Report In-process

4 Measurement Report In-process
5 QC final Report In-process
6 Packaging List In-process
7 QA day final audit Output
8 Root cause chart(weekly) Output

Machine/Equipment Details

SR No Name Quantity
Single needle lockstitch
1. 13
machine
2. Over lock 2
Primary and Secondary QC
3. 33
Table
4. QA Audit table 1
5. Button attach machine 8
6. Staple tag attach machine 4
7. Steam Iron and Iron Table 16
8. Garment stock keeping bins 10
9. Long Tables 9
10. Thread sucking machine 3
11. Metal detector machine 1
12 Primary Trimming Table 3
13 Secondary Trim Table 3
14 Shade Mending Table 2

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Work flow

Yes Perform the required

alteration
After washing, garments are
Is alteration
sent to finishing department
required? Button Attaching
before final shipment
(Snap/Rivet)
No

Inside trimming and loop

cutting is done poly bag Secondary QC Attach fit label/ leather
covers from tags are removed patch
if required

Thread sucking and

Measurement QC checking
garment turn
Attach Care label

Get up QC
Primary QC check Inside Ironing for
pocket bag
(Checking of inside part of
front and back) to see if
No Final Audit checking (2 hours)
alteration is required

Yes
Pocket bag Cleaning (Only
for stone washed Make hang tag and waist tag
Garments are sent garment)
to alteration

Attach hang tag and waist tag

Metal detection Segregate by shade

Ironing QC check Final Ironing
check and size

Folding, dust Packing into

Insert leg and Insert
removing and if carton as per
price sticker garment into
required attach size ratio
poly
alarm device

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PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
Packaging process is carried out as per agreed upon buyer requirements in order to send the
finished goods to customers packed as required within the given time while maintaining quality
standards and standing up to inspection from buyers or their representatives.

The main objective of packaging is to ensure that finished goods are as per buyer specifications,
therefore they can pass buyer inspections that the packing is done as specified and that they may
be shipped in time as per schedule made by planning.

Checklists
SR No Name Input/In-Process/Output
1 Approved Sample Input
2 Folding Approval/Tech pack Input
3 Purchase order Input
4 Poly complete Report In-process
5 Tracking list In-process
6 Inline Report In-process
7 Audit report In-process
8 System Challan In -process
9 Store register for finished goods In-process
10 Packaging List Output
11 Final Inspection report Output
12 Rework Record In-process

Process flow of packaging

Provide clear
Print carton labelling Prepare carton for
instruction for packing
sticker and paste on loading at designated
including ratio
carton holding area
information from ERP

Recieve final getup

ready garments from Load cartons in truck
finishing ,perform Stack carton as per PO
and send to the
dusting & shade and country
warehouse
segregation

Receive finished goods

Fold the garment a per Make carton and close
and put in allocated
the buyer requirements carton
racks

Sort the garments as Put specified no. of

per size ,ratio to be garments in ploy bags and Final Inspection
packed in seal them

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QUALITY DEPARTMENT
The quality department is headed by Mr. Ashoka, Quality Manager. The job of this department is
to ensure that the garment should meet all the quality specifications. This department is further
divided into Quality Assurance department which includes all those planned and systematic
actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given
requirements for quality and Quality Control department whose responsibility is to look after all
the activities undertaken to fulfil requirements of quality.

The quality checkers are trained as soon as the new style arrives in the factory about how they are
to check the garment.

Quality Assurance check points

 Trim store - QA executive checks 10% of trims as per approval given by merchandiser, It is
only accepted if defect% is zero, if not, whole received quantity is checked.

 Cutting
1. Marker Audit - Before spreading, markers are checked for various parameters like
marker width, marker length, size ratio and number of panels and garments, all the
details should match lay slip generated by Intellocut.
2. Spreading Audit- No. of plies, length and width of ply, shade segregation is checked
during spreading.
3. After cutting Audit - after cutting of the each lay, bundle is checked for miss cut, ragged
cutting, notches, remnants and patterns.
4. Panel Audit - After numbering and bundling, 6% of cut panels are checked for fabric
defects from each bundle and it is only accepted if defect% is zero, if not, whole bundle
is checked.
 Sewing
1. End line audit - There are two QA table set for 10 lines (1 for 5 lines), 20% of each
bundle is checked. Different defects code and garments part code is given in the format.
If defect% is more than zero, then whole bundle is checked by QC and Re-audit is done.
2. Traffic light - The Traffic Light system is used to identify and solve quality issues at an
operator or sewing station level. The QC personnel responsible for Traffic Light check
should randomly check each operator’s work at least 5 times in a shift. (Between two
hour of intervals)

 From the start of the shift, the QC personnel should check every operation sequentially
against operation spec sheet and visual standard. The last bundle produced by each
operator is checked.
 6 pieces are selected at random from the same bundle. If more than one defect is found
then the bundle is rejected; the QC personnel should inform the line chief immediately

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 who should decide necessary course of action; if needed he will escalate the matter on
urgent basis.
 The traffic light chart will start at yellow and move to Red or Green, but never directly
between Red and Green. Example is given below:
1st Check -> One or more faults -> Red
2nd Check -> Zero or no fault -> Red
3rd Check -> No fault -> Yellow
4th Check -> No fault -> Green
5th Check -> No fault -> Green
6th Check -> One or more faults -> Yellow
 Finishing
1. 2 hour audit - In every two hours, garments finished are checked by QA checks, this
is done on 1.5 AQL which is more tighter.
2. Day final audit - Audit is performed by opening 10% of the cartons, in case the
results are below AQL of 1.5, then 100% recheck is done.
3. Third party audit- In this audit, Buyer's nominated executive checks random goods
and company's QA assist him and makes the final report.

Quality Assurance Department manpower distribution (per shift)

QA Manager (common for both shift) 1

Shift in charge 2
Cutting
Marker and spreading audit 1
Panel audit 1
Sewing
End line sewing 4
Traffic light 10
Finishing
2 hour audit (1.5 AQL) 2
Day final audit 2
Pre final audit 1
Total 24

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Quality Control check points

In Quality control , all the processes are 100% checked for the defects, if any defect is found,
alteration is done and rechecking is done for altered part.

Fabric store No fabric inspection at unit end, it is done at the fabric

warehouse
Trims 100% trims inspection
Cutting room Marker checking
Spreading (lay length & width checking)
Sewing Front part check
department Back part check
End line check
Finishing - Initial finishing inspection (after wash) and alterations
department - Final finishing inspection (After Pressing)
- Internal shipment audit

TYPES OF DEFECTS

Spreading defects in garments

1. Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.
2. Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at
the edge of the spread.
3. Narrow fabric width, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits
missing.
4. Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts
not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.

Cutting defects in garments

1. Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts.
2. Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean.
3. Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to
suit fabric.
4. Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or
rotating at too high a speed knife cut.
5. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread.

Colour defects in garments

Colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced garment to the
sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour combination and mismatching of dye
amongst the pieces.

Sewing defects in garments

1. Down stitch

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 2. Open stitch
3. Skip stitch
4. Operation missing
5. Puckering
6. Exposed raw edges
7. Seam open

Quality Control Department manpower distribution (per shift)

QC Manager (common for both shift) 1

Shift in charge 1
Trim store 2
Cutting
Marker checking 1
Spreading 1
Sewing
Front part check 10
Back part check 10
End line check 20
Finishing
Initial finishing inspection (after wash) 4
Final finishing inspection (After Pressing) 3
Total 53

MAINTENANCE

The maintenance department is headed by Mr. Aminul and has got mechanics personnel under
him to look after the maintenance work. The responsibility of this department is to ensure higher
machines uptime. The objective of maintenance is to minimize the total cost of unavailability and
resources.

Whenever the machine is not available or not working properly, we do bear costs like-
 Loss of earnings due to stoppage of equipment
 Labour of overhead expenses
 Materials in spares and consumables
 Cost of storage of spares and facilities.
 Cost of poor quality products
 Late shipments
 Wastage of productive time
 Productivity loss due to decreased morale of the work force.

54 | P a g e
 Crescent Fashion & Design Ltd.(Level-1)
Beximco Industrial Park
Sarabo Kashimpur Gazipur.
Yearly Maintenance plan
Yearly Maintenance Plan For -2018

Sl No Item Description Work Work Period Work Person Dept. Head Check
1 Personal Protective Equipment Check Check & Fill Up Daily Line Mechanic Daily
Mechanical,Oil,
2 Daily Sewing M/C Maintenance Log Daily Line Mechanic Daily
Dust
Needle Issue,
3 Needle Pasting Check Daily Needle Man Daily
Collect & Pasting
4 DB Board & Electrical Loose Wire Check Monthly Mechanic Monthly(Date-5/6)
Fan,SDB Board,
5 Weekly Electrical Item Check List Weekly Electrician Weekly
Iron etc.
temp/Load
6 Cable Load Check List Daily Electrician Daily
Check
7 ECC Check List Earthing Check Half Month Electrician Half Month
8 Weekly Light Measurement Report Lux Check Weekly Electrician Weekly
Wall Plastrer,
9 Weekly Building Inspection Check List Dam Proof Wall Weekly Maint. Incharge Weekly
Etc.
Fire Alam, Exit
10 Daily Electrical Device Maintenance Light, P.A Daily Electrician Daily
System
11 Daily AC Check List Check & Solve Daily Electrician Daily
12 Daily Fire Equipment Check List Check & Solve Daily Electrician Daily
Machine Break Line Mechanic &
13 TPM Report Daily Daily
Down IE

Maintenance Head

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WAREHOUSE

Objective - The objective of warehouse is to store the finished and packed goods according to
buyer and to dispatch it after receiving shipment chalan and packing list according to delivery
scheduled.

Area 2000 Sq ft

Height from floor 30 feet

Manpower status 11

Work flow of Warehouse

Receive cartons with Goods are dispatch

Receive packing list
shipment chalan from according to
for delivery
packaging department packing list

Cartons are stored

Weigh the goods in buyer wise
designated racks

Manual entry in
Entry in Datatex
register

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