CHAPTER-1

INTRODUCTION:
 With a vision to lead, Radnik Export emerged in the horizon of garment
manufacturing industry in the year 1981. Led by business acumen of the
founder and the competence of the workforce, it established itself as a name to
reckon with not only in India but also in the overseas destination.
 Today, it is one of the leading garment manufacturing and exporters in India
with state of art, professionally, production unit covering 97,715 square feet .
 Ever since its inception, Radnik Export Pvt. Ltd has never looked back.
Growing with strength as well as value it has achieved the production capacity
of 2, 60,000 PCS. Garments per Month and a turnover of 90million USD per
annum (ASSUMED).
 At Radnik Export Pvt. Ltd, obligation involving human resource development,
social& environmental issue is a part of day to day chores.
 Radnik Export Pvt. Ltd uses a wide array of fabric to create distinct style for
its buyer. From naturals (cotton, linen, hojari, silk, wool) to synthetics
(viscose, polyester, and polyamide) and their blend, various fabrics are
handled with the care they demand.

List of buyers:

 Tom Tailor
 Sainsbury
 Pantaloon
 NEXT
 Rex and Holm
 Carrefour
 H&M
 Nak Fashion

1
 CHAPTER -2
2.1) WORK FLOW :
BUYER
↓

PRODUCT DEVELOPER

MERCHANT

SAMPLING

FABRIC

TESTING

MARKER PLANNING

SPERADING

CUTTING

BUNDLING

RESEARCH& DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCTION

2
 WASHING

FINISHING&PRESSING

PACKING

2.2) Product development:

● This department is not buyer specific and for the work the buyer that company
caters to. The major role of this department is to getting business for the company.
● First interaction of the buyer is with PD department, but in some case PD is directly
done by the merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as
presentation for new developing /line adopting to buyer, sample/mock developed are
for style and design purpose.
● If buyer select any of the style then further development will be done by PD
department, once order is been locked further follow up and communicating regarding
that style will be the responsibility of the concerned merchandiser.

2.3) Important terminology:

• PCD (plan cut date)
• GPT (garment packing test)
• FPT (fabric packing test )
• CUT OF DATE
• GREEN TAG SAMPLE (means it is a production sample)
• YELLOW TEG SAMPLE (means sealer/shipment sample)
• PPM (pre- production meeting)
• MINUTES OF MEETING ( for any important discussion related to any particular
issue)

3
 CHAPTER-3

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

3.1) Merchandising:

Merchandising or merchandiser means commodities or goods delts in by merchant. A

merchant is the person who acts as a link between buyer and vendor , and the one
who center and integral part of a garment industry.

A merchant is a fulcrum of the organization which involves coordinating and follow

up against tight schedules. They have to take care of quality, delivery on time and
simultaneously the price of garment and due to which the merchant is liable for the
same percentage in the company profile.
3.2) Merchandising activities:

● Receive detailed information from buyer like detail, fabric type, quality and fiber
contains, trims requirements and quality, color details and various other details like
washing, printing, embroideries etc.
● Make proto type, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing
and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at
sampling stage etc.
●Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendment if any, confirm price, category, and
delivery schedule and required lead time etc.
●Get the approval for sample and trims, prepare the time and action plan, prepare the
fabric and trim indent.
●Coordinate with R&D and I E for further detailed R&D report; coordinate with PPC
for production planning, send order status to buying office at every stage.

4
 CHAPTER-4
COSTING DEPARTMENT
3.1) Costing:
The most important function of the costing department is to calculate the total cost of
garment.The costing should be such that it suits the buyer and also the export house.
At the pre – production stage initial costing is done so as to get an idea of cost likely
to be incurred. After the buyer has placed this order and production sample is
approved then final costing is done.
A cost sheet includes:
 Buyer name
 Quantity
 Style
 Budget
 Garment
 Fabric description
3.2) PURCHASE ORDER:
PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Radnik Export
Pvt. Ltd; it is an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of
company.
Po include the following information
1. Delivery date
2. FOB
3. Ship cancel date
4. Destination
9. Quantity
5. Ship mode
10. Size break up / color break up

5
 CHAPTER-5
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:
4.1) Sampling:

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of

production. It is also called mock up of a product and is made to check the design
effectiveness and fit of the garment.
Sampling is a set of the procedure follow to produce various sample style. It contains
activities like making of the pattern for proto type according to measurement of the
sample with the help of machinery and getting buyers approvals for sample produce.
In an export house, the sampling department play vital role in the up- lifting of a unit.
This department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production
dept. Sampling is done to see how the product will look when produce in bulk and to
check discrepancies in the pattern are

4.2) STEP OF SAMPLING:

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

↓
FIT SAMPLE MADE
↓
PRE PRODUCTIONSAMPLE MADE
↓
TOP SAMPLE
↓
SIZE SET MADE
↓
SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE

6
 CHAPTER-6
FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing means sourcing the right kind of fabric which fulfils the specification.
Fabric sourcing department is quite important as more than 90%of garment is fabric
and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to the fabric cost.

Selecting the right quality of the fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it
may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer.

The fabric sourcing department gets the fabric sample from the vendor. These
samples are tested before sending to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the
sample, the fabric is order for bulk production.

5.1) FABRIC STORE:

Fabric storehouse actual are where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched
for processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the
inspection of good receives by it.

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE:

FABRIC DESPATCH FROM MILL

FABRIC RECEIVING

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYEING OR PRINTING

100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

LOT MAKING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

7
5.2) STORAGE:
Rack system of storage is followed i.e. packages are stored in two areas:

1. Check fabric

2. Unchecked fabric

They are further segregated on the basic of style no. and lot wise. The fabric rolls are
put in rack manual way. Such systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to
make the fabric whenever needed in future.

5.3) FABRIC INSPECTION:

The fabric being the main contribution to development of our final product i.e. the
garment, it is very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and
various present in it. Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right at
the initial stage to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is in- house it is
immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assembly to inspection.

Company use only 4 point system for fabric inspection.

4 POINT SYSTEM: 4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel
industry for

Fabric quality inspection.

1. Fabric inspection method or preparation.

2. Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.

3. Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll.

4. A Check sheet or format for recording data.

Figure-1.1

8
Criteria for giving penalty points

The penalty evaluation points have been given for different length of fabric defect
and dimension of holes.

SIZE OF DEFECT PENALTY POINTS

Length of defects in fabric (either length
or width)
Defects up to 3 inches 1
Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches 2
Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches 3
Defects > 9 inches 4
Holes and openings(largest dimension)
1 inch or less 2 2
Over 1 inch 4 4

FORMULA TO CALCULATE TOTAL POINT PER YARD

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq.yds.

Points/100sq.yds – Total points in roll *3937

Fabric length in MTR * fabric width in inch

FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE : This machine is used for any type of fabric
rolled, checking defect and check fabric length and width. This unit has 3 machines
with sensor.

Figure- 1.2

9
 CHAPTER-7
TESTING LAB:

Garment are made from fabric with help of sewing thread and no. of accessories like
button, lace, ribbons etc. are sewn on them. Any undesirable change in fabric, thread
or trims would detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before
time. Thus it became necessary to check or test characteristics of this entire
component under conditions to which they are susceptible to charge or get damaged.
Fabric and trims are tested for their quality, durability color fastness, dimensional
stability .

The buyers are also specific about the method that has to be followed. AATCC and
ASTM are two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American
association of textile chemists and colorists) are given primarily for all color fastness
and dimensional stability. ASTM (American standard for testing materials) covers all
the physical tests.

6.1 ) BASIC WORK FLOW

TESTING lab receives the fabric to be tested along with test request from either from
fabric sourcing department or the fabric (or garment form quality assurance/
merchandising department). This contains all the details like buyer name, style,
sample description and vendor. A swatch of fabric to be tested is passed on the form
and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on the no.and type of tests to be
carried, fabric yardages are sent to be lab (almost ½ mtr to 2 mtr).

Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to be relaxed, condition to the
standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a
variety of test are conducted on the condition sample but some of tests like that of
washing, crocking, rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM,
content etc. are necessarily carried out for every fabric/ garment.

10
 Various physical test and chemical test which mainly perform :

 Fabric Weight
 Tensile Strength
 Tearing Strength
 General Garment Appearance
 Pilling Test
 Dimensional Stability After Washing
 Fiber Content
 PH Of Water Extract/ Surface pH
a) SHRINKAGE
If an extreme shrinkage rate occurs then a test on every roll will be performed. The
result collated separated in to shrinkage group of +/- 1.5% range. Separate pattern will
be made of each group. The QA manager will communicate such information to
CAD/CAM,cutting and sewing section. A fabric shrinkage test report is maintained
for this purpose.
FORMULA: A 50 cm mark is made in warp and weft direction. The sample is
washed in water at normal temperature for 45 minute and an hour then taken out and
dried. The marks made are measured again to find out the shrinkage.

b) GSM CUTTER AND WEIGHT BALANCE

GSM – Gram per square meter

The GSM is finding out by using weighing machine on which the fabric sample cut
by the GSM cutter is kept and value displayed.

Figure- 1.3

11
c) BEASLEY BALANCE:

The instrument is used to calculate the DIRECT COUNT (count, the no. that
determines the fineness and coarseness of the yarn).

Working principal: It is based upon “FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEM”in which there is a

having fixed weight of 0.004 grams.

Work instruction:

• Take the fabric sample of length 10 cm. in both the direction i.e. warp as well as
weft.

Take out the thread with help of needle.

• Weight the no. of thread and when get balanced, this gives the direct count.

d) TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

This instrument shows the resistance of fabric against wearing and tearing.

Work instruction:

•Take the fabric sample having dimension according to the template in both warp and
weft directions.

• Place the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tearing strength tester. One
jaw is fixed and other is movable.

• The sample below the bottom jaw is cut with the help of blade.

• Note the reading when the fabric tears.

• The reading comes in Kg. convert it into oz/yd square.

Figure-1.4

12
d) CROCKING FASTNESS

This test is done to find out the resistance of color against rubbing.

Working instruction:

• Take the fabric sample having dimensions 20 cm * 5 cm.

• Place the sample on the plate of the machine and fix it with help of and screws.

• Take the white bleached tested cloth as per the standard specification.

• Give the 10 rounds in to and for motion with the help of rotator.

• Take out the test cloth and grading is done with the help of gray scale.

• Similarly, the wet rubbing fastness can be calculated by wetting of the test cloth

e) DIGITAL PILLING TESTER

It is used for predict the pilling behavior of the fabric or garment after its use.

Work instruction:

• Clean the boxes thoroughly.

• Place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes.

• Set the machine revolutions till.

• Start the machine & let it run, it automatically stops.

• Take out the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating standards.

Figure-1.5

13
f) LAUNDROMETER

This machine is used to check the fastness of fabric against washing.

Work instruction:

• Take the fabric sample having dimensions 10 cm * 4 cm.

• Then, cut white cotton sample having dimensions 5 cm * 4 cm and stitch it on both
sides of the test sample.

• Then, put the test sample into the containers of the launder meter.
Run the sample with required amount of detergent and M: L ratio according to the
test method required by buyer.

• Take out the fabric the launder meter after the required time and then grading is
done according to the grey scale.

g) HOT AIR OVEN

Work instruction

• Set the temperature at the desired ageing temperature and switch on the electric
supply.

• Open the door of the oven and place the specimen on shelf.

• Allow the temperature of the oven to the desired test temperature.

• Then the desired temperature is reached note, the time.

• Allow the test to continue uninterrupted for the specified duration of time.

• At the end of this period, switch off the power supply and take out the sample.

• Conduct the required test and find the result.

h) PH METER

Work instruction

• Connect the instrument to electric supply.

• Put the selector switch to STAND BY. The instrument should read 000.

• Instrument is now ready to use.

• Connect to connection pH electrode to the input socket.

14
• Set the selector switch to the pH position. Wash the electrode with distilled water

and dip the combined electrode in the solution under test.

• Set the temperature. The display shows the value of solution directly the pH unit.

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing
the production of a company with minimizing the cost.
Various tasks performed are:

• To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to
buyer.

• Line balancing

• Calculating thread consumption

• Time study

• Creating operating breakdown

• Find out SMV

• No. of machine

• Helper required

• Sketching layout for production

• To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line

• Calculating daily efficiency of the unit

• Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency

• Fix the target production

• Decide the type of the machine and work aids attachment requirement for particular
operation.

15
 CHAPTER-8

CAD DEPARTMENT
CAD stands for computer aided design. It is one of the most important department of
export house. Basic Software which is used for computer aided designing in Radnik
Export Pvt. Ltd is as follows:

1. Modaris

2. Diamino

3. Optiplan

1. Modaris
This software performs the following functions:

• Pattern making

• Pattern modification

• Pattern digitizing

• Pattern grading

2. Diamino

This software is used for marker making. Efficiency of marker as decided as per the
garment in this seam allowances are also added.

Function per formed by this software are as follows:

• All markers with minimum wastage.

• Solution of problems created due to center selvedge, length variation and side
selvedge with best efficiency.

16
3. Optiplan

This software is used when buyer send uneven ratio. Functions performed by Optiplan
are:

Main equipment used in CAD

• Pattern pieces

• Digitizer

• Software

• Plotter

MARKER MAKING
A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for size of specific
style that are to be cut from a single spread. Marker making is a process of developing
a diagram which is superimposed on the top of aground of superimposed piles as a
guide for cutting these plies. It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces
for a specific style fabric and distribution sizes.

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT:

PATTERN ENGINEERING

An examination of the seam location to ensure the possible placement of pattern in

marker

• HEM ALTERATION ALLOWANCES

Means dividing a large panel and shaped pattern into two pieces to better
accommodation in the marker.

• THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH

The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric width/
squaremeter, the typical number of size in a marker, the potential pattern engineering
changes at various width and the marker efficiency achieve.

17
 CHAPTER-9

SPREADING

Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of

specified length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for
further processing. Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and
marker issued by CAD dept.

Figure-1.6

PROCESS FLOW OF SPREADING:

FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

VACCUME IS TURN ON IN THE SPREADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC / MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUM IS TUREND OFF

18
 ↓

MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

TRANSFERRED TO THE CUTTING TABLE

Figure-1.7

19
 CHAPTER-10

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Process Flow of cutting department:

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Placing marker paper on the lay

100% inspection of parts and replacement of parts if needed

Numbering

Fabric cutting

Sorting and bundling

Input to sewing department

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given
amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in from of a package file that carries the
following details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other
trims averages.

2. Measurement sheet

20
3. Purchase order

4. Fabric requisition sheet

5. CAD mini marker

6. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to
be cut.

Types of cutting knife used in Department :

1. Straight knife

2. Band knife

3. Cam knife

4. Round knife

Straight knife:

The Straight knife cutting machine consists of a base plate, an up right stand to hold
the vertical blade, motor, a handle for moving assembly, a sharpening device and a
handle to transfer the whole assembly from one place to another.

Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives the
reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay. Normally the
available blade heights very from 10 cm to 33 cm and normally available strokes vary
from 2.5 to 4.5 cm. The greater the blade movement the faster the blade cuts the
fabric and more easily the operator can move the machine

Band knife:

 It comprises a series of three or more pulleys,which provide the continuous

rotating motion of the knife .
 An endless knife is used here.
 Knife is usually narrower than on a straight knife.
 A large size of table is used to support the fabric & for cutting.
 Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
 Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
 Automatic grinder is used.
 In this method machine is stationary but fabric is movable.
 High speed r.p.m. motor is used.

21
Round knife:

• It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.

• The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle & knife
guard.

• Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.

• Manual grinder is used.

• Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.

• A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.

• Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.

• Knife is lubricating manually.

• Three types of knife edge can be used for cutting different objects. Such as, waved
edge, toothed edge & circular edge.

• A round knife rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric.

• Flexible movement helps to cut non linear shape.

• Base plate gives support for fabric.

• Maximum 40% of the knife diameter can be used for fabric lay.

Figure-1.8

22
CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENT

1. Layering and spreading

2. Cutting

3. Bundling and ticketing

4. Fusing area

5. QA department

TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut
components are group together as per their sizes and taken to the checking table. Here
the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that
pieces cut from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to size of the
component to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept
between to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine by means
of temperature and pressure fusing takes place at particular speed and for a particular
time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed
and re-bundled.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using tie. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant.
Each bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are
stored in racks made beneath the cutting table. The cutting department issues the
amount required by the production dept. as and when ask for. The cut component may
be issued in installment or all at once as the needs of the production department.

23
 CHAPTER-11

SEWING DEPARTMENT

Working Procedure of Sewing Department:

Garment analysis

Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)

Machine lay out

Operator lay out

Quality control of product

Line balancing

Line setup

Process distribution

Parts received from cutting dept.

Parts storing

Parts distribution to the operator and helper

24
Position mark to components where required

Parts making (individual)

Inline quality checking

Parts assembling

Inline quality audit

Output counting & checked with the target

End line quality audit

Figure-1.9

25
 CHAPTER-12

WASHING DEPARTMENT

Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty and
stain, thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value, they are
subjected to cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning. Garments are sent for
washing by the production department as per the buyer’s requirement.

TYPE OF WASHING

1. Normal washes

2. Garment wash

3. Enzymes wash

4. Acid wash

Figure-1.10

26
 CHAPTER-13

PRESSING DEPARTMENT
Pressing or ironing is the most important finishing process in readymade garments
sector which is done by subjecting a cloth to heat and pressure with or without steam
to remove unwanted creases and to impart a flat a appearance to the garments.

Pressing or ironing also done to introduce creases in the apparel. In the garments
manufacturing industries, pressing is termed as ironing.

OBJECTIVE OF PRESSING

Pressing or ironing has different types of objects which are mentioned in the below:

• Removal of unwanted creases and crinkles,

• Shaping,

• To apply creases where necessary,

• Under pressing,

• Final pressing.

Types of pressing:

Hand irons

Hand irons are used for numerous operations in the production of clothing. One
example of these is electric high-pressure steam iron.Hand irons are produced in a
variety of shapes and weights to suit specific types of operations.

Small cabinet press

It is designed to press the shirts before they are buttoned, thus preventing button
marks on the finished article. During the pressing process, the back and front are
tensioned by air-filled bags, which ensure an even pressing surface when the shirt is
between the two shaped pressing plates.This particular machine can be efficiently
operated by one person only when there is a reasonable balance between the handling
and pressing cycle times.

27
 CHAPTER-14

PACKAGING:

Packing is the last stage where the finished garment are primed , organized, geared up
for the shipment to the buyer, the entire process from the way a garment will be
folded to the final labeling of the cartons is dictated by buyer’s specifications.The
merchandiser forwards it to the packing in charge along with a top of production
sample i.e. packed with dimension approved by the buyer. This is kept as a visual
reference for the packers.

PROCESS FLOW OF PACKING:

GARMENT COMES FROM INSPECTION

IT IS THEN FOLDED

1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER

ALL PIECES PUT IN TO CARTONS

DETAILS ARE PASTED ON CARTONS

CARTON IS SEALED

LOADED INTO TRUCKS

SENT FOR SHIPMENT

28
 CHAPTER-15

BIBLOGRAPHY

 www.scribd.com
 www.textilelearner.com
 www.textilewikibis.com
 www.textileflowchat.comte
 www.wikipedia.textile.org

29