APPAREL MERCHANDISING
ASSIGNMENT -1
BRANDS ANALYSIS
&
TECHPACK
SUBJECT TEACHER- MR RANJAN SAHA
STUDENT DETAILS:
Manith Reddy (BFT/17/137)
BATCH: 2017- 2021
B.F.TECH – VI
MARKET RESEARCH:
Objective: To observe the bottom wears of different brands
Procedure:
Chose 5 brands – Arrow, Blackberry, peter England, Code and Allen Solly
We compared the brands on these particular points-
• Fabric composition of the bottom wear
• Fabric used in waistband
• Fabric used in pocket
• Type of stitch
• Type of seam
• Price Range
Brands:
ARROW
Formal Pants
Price – ₹2399.
Material – 77% Polyester 22%Viscose 1%Lycra
Single needle lockstitch used in superimposes seam.
Superimpose seam with overlock on both inseam
and side seam.
Waist band is of different fabric than that of garment.
Different Fabric is used for inside lining of waist band and pocket.
BLACKBERRY
Formal trouser
Price-Rs.2395.00
Material- 69% Polyester 29% Rayon 2% Lycra.
Fabric is folded outside at the hem part.
Waist band is of normal fabric from outside but inside material is different.
Superimpose seam from single needle lock stitch accompanied with overlock on side seams, in seams
and crotch.
PETER ENGLAND
Formal Trouser
Price – ₹1599
Material – Poly-wool
Different fabric for pockets and waistband from inside.
Side seam, Crotch and in seam superimposed using chain stitch and
overlocked.
CODE
Formal Trouser
Price – ₹ 1499.
Material- 75% Polyester 23% Viscose 2% Lycra.
Side seam, in seam and crotch both
superimposed with chain stitch and then overlocked.
Waistband is of normal fabric as that of garment with
different lining inside.
ALLEN SOLLY
Trousers
Price – ₹1999
Material – 70% Polyester 30% Viscose
Side seam superimpose using single needle lock stitch and
overlocked.
Waist band of normal fabric from outside and different
from inside.
Pockets of different fabric from inside.
TECHPACK:
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Product: Cargo pants Category: Men
Type: Casual trouser Color: Brown
Fabric: Cotton-polyester shell fabric Fabric for pocket bag: Plain weave Polyester
Thread: CF polyester thread Pocket: 6 (2 side+ 4 box pockets)
Waist size: 34” Trouser length: 39”
FLAT SKETCH
FLAT SKETCH
Base Fabric Details:
Fiber Content : Cotton and Fabric : Woven Fabric
Polyester
Weave : Twill weave GSM : XXX
EPI*PPI : XXX*XXX Yarn type : Spun, single ply
Finishes applied : XXX Fabric Inspection: Only 1st
grade.
Shade allowance: Not more Dyeing stage : Fabric Dyed
than 3 shades.
Chemicals used in fabric : No Yarn Count : XXX
content of environment and
health hazard causing dyes
should be found
Color: Golden Brown Color Fastness: XXX
Avg. Fabric consumption per trouser – 1.5 meters (60” width)
Lining fabric details:
Fiber Content : 100 % Fabric : Woven Fabric
polyester
Weave : Plain weave GSM : XXX
EPI*PPI : XXX*XXX Yarn type : Spun, single ply
Finishes applied : XXX Fabric Inspection: Only 1st
grade
Shade allowance: Not more Dyeing stage : Fabric Dyed
than 3 shades.
Chemicals used in fabric : No Yarn Count : XXX
content of environment and
health hazard causing dyes Color: White
should be found
Avg. Fabric consumption per trouser – 0.5 meters (60” width)
Requirement – For waist band and pocket lining
Woven fusible interlining details:
Material: Woven Cotton Fabric Type: Dotted Fusible Interlining
Width: 1.5” Color: White
Avg. consumption per trouser – 0.1 meters (60” width)
Requirement – For waist band and pocket flap
Button details:
Button type Plastic button (4-hole)
Size of button (Diameter) 20mm (32 ligne)
Material Plastic
Color Dyed to Match
Encryptions Brand name and logo
Consumption – 7 buttons per garment
Requirement – 1 at center front, 6 at pocket flaps
Button-hole specifications:
Size (Length) 18mm
Layout Horizontally at center front, vertically at pocket
flaps
Type Keyhole buttonhole (using 301class,2 thread)
Requirement – 1 at center front, 6 at pocket flaps
Zipper details:
Brand: YKK Type: Metallic Zipper
Teeth size: Zipper length:7”
Zipper Tape: Zipper tape material: Polyester
Zipper tape thickness: Bottom stopper: Yes
Upper stopper: Yes Slider material: Metal
Sewing Thread details
Ticket size for needle thread:50 TKT Ticket size for bobbin thread: 50TKT
Color: Dyed to match Type:2 Ply CF
Content:100 % Polyester Color fastness: XXX
Twist: XXX Twist level: XXX
Total thread required = 10795 cm (approx.)
Labels specifications
• Brand label at the back (inner side)
Size 3.5 inch * 7/8 inch
Label fabric Satin
Label type Embroidered
Details of the embroidery As given in the picture
Established LOGO
in XXXX Tagline
• Brand label at the back (outside)
Size 3 ¾ inches * 2 ½ inches
Label material Leather
Label type Laser printing
Details of the print As given in the picture below
Position 3 (3/8)” from right side
seam, just below the waistband
Established in XXXX SIZE 34
LOGO
Tagline
• Wash care labels
No of labels 2
Position Inside the waistband at right side (6
inches from front)
Care label -1 Material Satin
Print on Size of the waist (in inches
upper side And cm both as given in
the picture below)
Size 1 ¾ inch *1 ¾ inch
Print Wash care-
(inner • Hand or machine
side) • Wash separately
• In mild detergent
• Tumble dry- low
• Dry in the shade
• Warm iron alone
Positions As shown in the picture
of the print (print size on upper side
1inch*1inch)
Care label-2 Material Woven fabric
Print on • Company name
upper side • Fiber content
• Origin of manufacture
Size 1 6/8 inch * 2 1/8 inch
Print Wash care-
(inner • Machine wash cold
side) • Color may transfer
• Wash separately
• Use mild detergent
• Turn inside out before washing
and drying
• Do not bleach
• Warm iron
• Do not wring
• Tumble dry or line dry in shade
• Do not iron on print or
embellishment/embroidery
Positions As shown in the picture
of the (print size on upper side
print 1inch*1inch)
Care symbols As shown in the illustration below
Wash Care Label Illustration:
WASH CARE
WASH CARE MACHINE WASH COLD
COLOR MAY TRANSFER
WASH SEPARATELY
USE MILD DETERGENT
TURN INSIDE OUT BEFORE
WASHING AND DRYING
HAND OR MACHINE DO NOT BLEACH
WASH SEPARATELY WARM IRON
DO NOT WRING
USE MILD DETERGENT TUMBLE DRY OR LINE DRY IN
TUMBLE DRY LOW SHADE
DO NOT IRON ON PRINT OR
DRY IN THE SHADE EMBELLISHMENT/EMBROIDERY
WARM IRON ALONE
FRONT BACK
Label 2 Illustration:
LOGO
Size 34
COTTON-POLYESTER 86 cm
MADE IN INDIA
BRAND LABEL SIZE LABEL
GARMENT MEASUREMENT AND SPECIFICATION
Measurement Points Measurements (With ease)
Waist (A) 36.5”
Hip (7” below waist) (K) 42”
Thigh (H) 22”
Knee (L) 18.5”
Front rise (D-E) 8.5”
Back rise (I-J) 10”
Side seam (B-C) 37.5”
In seam (E-F) 30”
Bottom hem (G) 16”
Special instruction: Ensure proper shrinkage allowance and no acceptance of extra
garments.
POSITIONING OF POCKETS AND TRIMS
1. Front inseam pocket
Position – 1.5” inwards from side seam on front panel of the garment on both right and
left side.
Pocket mouth - 6.5”
2. Back Box Pocket
Pocket dimensions: 5.5” X 6”
Flap dimensions: 5.5” X 2.5”
2.5” below waist, 4” from side seam
3. Side seam box pocket
Pocket Dimensions: 6.5” X 7”
Flap Dimensions: 6.5” X 2.5”
11.5” from the waist, center of side seam.
4. Zipper
6” from the waist
5. Button (Fastening the waistband)
1 cm from the edge of waistband, vertically center
6. Button (Fastening Back Pocket flap)
1 cm above bottom edge of flap, horizontally center
7. Button (fastening side pocket flap)
1.5” from both sides of the flap, 1 cm above bottom edge of flap
Note: Maintain SPI at 10 throughout the garment.
Spreading and Cutting Specifications
Spreading methods : Flat and Fully Automatic Spreading
Cutting m/c : Strictly Band knife
Max no. of plies in a lay: 75
Note: Maintain SPI at 10 throughout the garment.
PANELS OF THE GARMENT
S.NO. COMPONENTS NO. OF PIECES
1. Waist band (main fabric)(cutx1) 1
2. Waist band (lining) (cutx1) 1
3. Belt loops (cutx8) 8
4. Front panel (cutx2)- 3 parts 6
Front inseam pocket
5. • Pocket bag -2 parts(lining fabric) (cutx2) 8
• Facing – 2 parts (main fabric)(cutx2)
6 Back panel (cutx2) – 3 parts 6
Back box pocket with flap
7. • Flap (cutx4) 6
• Box pocket (cutx2)
Side seam box pocket
8. • Flap (cutx4) 6
• Box pocket (cutx2)
9. Zipper fly (cutx1) 1
10. Zipper cover (cutx1) 1
Woven fusible interlining
11. • Waist band (cutx1) 5
• Back box pocket flap (cut x2)
• Side seam box pocket flap (cutx2)
12. Metallic zipper 1
13. Plastic 4 hole button 7
Total Components 57
OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN
Operation Seam Diagram Stitch M/c used
SNLS
1. Fly and zipper Superimposed 301
DNLS
2. Front crotch Flat & Fell 301
3. Front inseam pocket on SNLS
Superimposed 301
both sides
4. All three front panels DNLS
Flat & fell 301
into one on both sides
5. All three back panels DNLS
Flat & fell 301
into one on both sides
6. Box pocket and flap on SNLS
Superimposed 301
both side of back panel
7. Front and back panel DNLS
Flat-fell 301
along the side seam
8. Box pocket and flap on SNLS
both side on the side Superimposed 301
seams
9. Back crotch DNLS
Flat-fell 301
SNLS
10. Inseam Superimposed 516
SNLS
11. The waist band lining Superimposed 301
12. Waist band with lining SNLS
with size and wash-care Superimposed 301
label
13. Waist band with trouser SNLS
Superimposed 301
14. Belt loops (Bar tack) SNLS
Superimposed 301
15. Bottom hem on both SNLS
side Superimposed 301
16. Button holes Eyelet
- 301
machine
Button-
17. Stitching of buttons
- 301 sewing
machine
Note: Maintain SPI at 10 throughout the garment.
MACHINES USED
1. Single needle lock stitch machine
2. Double needle lock stitch machine
3. 5 thread over-lock machines
4. Cylinder bed 2 needle Lock stitch machine with attachment for flat felled seam
5. Interlining heat fusing machine
6. Button sewing machine
7. Key button hole sewing machine
PACKING INSTRUCTIONS
• Garments should be clean and dry before packing
• Staffhandlingthegarmentshavecleanhandsandthegeneralenvironmentiscleananddust
free
• All garments to be folded as per garment folding instructions detailed in this
document.
• Refer to specific folding methods to avoid creasing or crushing during transportation
• Pre-hung garments to be grouped and secured together with a rubber band on the
hangers
• All garments MUST be on hangers
• To ensure a balanced loading of garments within a carton, lay garments end to end
in small groups
• Hangers must be tied securely to the sides of the garment to restrict movement
• Carton liner poly bags to be used with garments grouped and folded
• It is important that garments arrive as crease free as possible. To ensure this:
• Fold as instructed
• Use the right sized box
TISSUE PAPER AND POLY BAGS
• Tissue paper MUST NOT be used unless approved by Buying and Sourcing Manager
H2T
• The use of tissue paper creates operational inefficiencies and safety issues for TWL
stores
• Minimizing the use of unnecessary packaging is key to TWL Environmental Policies
• Polythene bags are intended to provide in-transit protective covering for garments. If
garments are to held in reserve they also provide dust protection for storage.
• The over use of poly bags causes a number of operational inefficiencies,
Environmental issues, Health and Safety issues for TWL team members and
unnecessary increased cost of goods
Suppliers therefore must consider the below hierarchy when using poly bags
1. Carton liner poly bag – to be used when buy pack is at a carton level quantity or
where replenishment units are supplied at multiples to full a carton
2. Multi-unit poly bag – to be used when cartons need to be opened for allocation and
allocation can be done without opening multi-unit poly bags.
3. Individual unit poly bag – Only upon prior agreement from Buying and Sourcing
Manager H2T
• Poly bags must be clear (no coloring) and have the recycling logo
• Poly bags must be BHT free (mutilatedhydroxyl toluene)
• Poly bags must be a minimum weight of 10 mu
• Do not use Polypropylene bags
• Poly bags must be odor free and contain no contaminants
• Safety of poly bags / carton liners is provided by having air holes (via hole-punching
or perforations) to eliminate the risk of suffocation to children. All plastic bags need
the recycling logo and the following information on them, Text must be in CAPITALS
CARTON STANDARDS
Cartons must be of a suitable standard and quality to protect merchandise from damage
under typical conditions of transport and handling
• Carton size must be chosen to closely fit the volume of contents within.
• Garments must not be squashed to fit the size of a carton (resulting in excessive
creasing or damage to garments)
• Merchandise must not overfill the carton
• It is TWL policy that we do not accept second hand cartons for any deliveries
• Metal staples, metal strapping and polypropylene strapping are not to be used to
seal cartons, tape is acceptable
The minimum acceptable board grade carton is to be:
• Board grade 4
• C flute (Flutes must run vertical to ensure box stacking is fully maximized)
• Single wall
• Inferior quality board should not be used
Cartons are encouraged to be
• Made of recycled material
• Contain no bleaches
• Be free of surface treatments
• Only constructed from board (no additional materials like plastic films)
• Easy to open without tools
CARTON MARKINGS
All outer cartons must be clearly marked with the information as specified on the purchase
order contract and detailing carton weight / cbm.
Below are examples of what good looks like
All deliveries to TWL DC’s must have approved labels or carton marking in the correct
position, clearly visible.
Section A (front carton mark on both sides) Section B (side carton mark on both sides)
Make sure the pack/carton contains exactly what is shown on the label. Information about
style, PO, and barcode must be accurate. Please refer to the checks we will do and the
penalties for errors as outlined below
DISPATCHING
Form Flat
Hanger Yes
Pins No
Hand tag attachment By Nylon transparent tape at the collar.
Packaging Pack XX garments of same size together in a
plastic bag.
Plastic bag XXX micron
Plastic bag closure Adhesive tape
Bag dimension XX cm * XX cm
Dispatching Box Material Cardboard
Box dimension XXX*XXX*XXX “
Lot size 50 garments per size in one lot
Labeling of lots Mention proper details on every box
