COURSE : Clothing & Textile Technology

LEVEL : Year 2

SUBJECT : Manufacturing Technology

LECTURER : Bongiwe Kolisi (kolisib@cput.ac.za)

INT MODERATOR : Dr S Patnaik

LECTURING TIME : 08:30-10:00 (1h30mins)

DATE : 01 March 2019

Topics: Shirt Break down, fabrication

Section 1: Different shirt categories

A shirt can be categorized into many different types.

1. Casual shirts: refer to a style of shirt which is easy going, carefree but at
the same time presentable, even as a work wear.
a) Casual shirts have a loose carefree fit and will be made in a lightweight
but textured fabric.
 A denim shirt is the typical casual shirt.
Examples and description

a) The sports shirt style: this type of garment is different to sportswear; it

is referred to sports shirt because of its sporty look.
 A sports shirt refers to a style of shirt which is casual and laid back as
opposed to the dressier dress shirts – identical with casual shirts.
 It will be shorter than the dress shirt so that it can be worn untucked
as well and is made of fabrics which are more varied than that of
the smoother shinier dress shirts.

1|Page
 2. Dress shirts: These are button-down shirts, typically worn under suits and
jackets to formal and semi-formal occasions

 Dress shirts are made of high-quality fabric mostly in a solid colour

and are neatly tucked into the pant waist and are sleek and well
fitted.

 A dress shirt will have full-length sleeves with single /French cuffs, stiff
folded collar. Cufflinks are used to fasten the cuffs, to make it more
elegant.

3. Epaulette shirt: This is a shirt style characterised by a special shoulder

detail.
 Styling – the shoulder will have militarily inspired shoulder straps
 This type of shirt, fall within the category of casual shirts.

Figure 1: Image: Epaulette shirt

2|Page
 4. Flannel shirt: Another name for this shirt is “Plaid shirt”.

Features:
 As the name indicates the shirt is named because of the material it
is made of, which is a lightweight casual flannel fabric which at the
same time is warm.
 The rugged looking checkered flannel fabric is the distinguishing
feature of this shirt type.
 Other features are convertible collar, patch pockets. It is worn on its
own or as a jacket over a t-shirt and has a very outdoor
characteristic which is appealing to all men.

Figure 2: Image: Flannel shirt

3|Page
 5. Granddad shirt
 This is a full front button up shirt with a band collar.
 Fabrication: It is usually made of high-quality cotton or linen.
 It originated in Scotland, where a linen version is known as a Sunday
shirt. Contrary to its name this shirt is appealing to the youngsters.
Granddads also.

Figure 3: Image: Granddad shirt

6. Golf shirts:
 Fabrication: knit fabrics
 Features: this type of shirt have a short placket with two or three
buttons and a basic knitted collar.
 A golf shirt has a loose fit (better for you to take that golf swing) and
elbow length sleeves and a double-stitched collar (which makes it lie
flat) with loose double-stitched sleeve cuffs (banded sleeves), and
sometimes a left breast pocket

Figure 4: Image: Golf shirt

4|Page
 7. Polo shirts

 This type of shirt is very similar to a Golf shirt; the difference being that
polo shirt is Shorter-sleeved (sleeves that end midway down the
biceps) than that of a golf shirt and the shirt is more fitted and the
collar can be made to stand up to protect the back of the neck
 They are also called Tennis shirts

Figure 5: Image: Polo Shirt

8. Sweatshirt
 A loose collarless pullover type of shirt with long sleeves made of a thick
soft and absorbent material like wool.
 It is almost like a sweater but it is worn during athletic activities.
 A sweatshirt with a head cover is known as a Hoodie.

5|Page
 Figure 6: Image: Sweatshirt

9. T-shirt

 A t-shirt is usually made of a thin inexpensive knit fabric and is the

most comfortable of all clothes.
 Crew neck t-shirts are the most popular though U neck and V
neck ones are also available in the market.

Figure 7: Image: A Basic T-shirt

11. Tunic shirt

 This is a long-sleeved, hip-length or longer shirt with a loose fit and
a slit neckline, placket and or a Chinese collar.
 A crisp and comfortable fabric like cotton or linen or even silk is
the preferred fabric for tunic shirts.
6|Page
12. Tuxedo shirt/formal shirt

Description: This is a formal occasion wear shirt typically worn under a tuxedo
jacket and has

1. A yoke which is styled like a built-in bib with pin tucks. This will be the
visible part of the shirt under the jacket.
2. This shirt is mostly paired with bow ties and formal ties

Figure 8: Image: Tuxedo shirt/formal shirt

13. Undershirt _Description: This is a long, knit, sleeveless shirt which is fitted
and worn under other shirts. It features a U or V neckline. These type of shirts
does not really qualify as shirts as they are worn by a lot of men under their
shirts. They are popular for providing warmth as well as sweat absorbing
quality.

Figure 9: Image: Undershirt

7|Page
Section 2: Basic Shirt Break down

1. Front view 2. Back view

Figure 1: shirt technical drawing

1. Front view

1) Basic shirt collar with a built in stand.

 This is the most popular collar on shirts.

OTHER TYPES OF COLLARS SUITABLE FOR SHIRTS

There are two kinds of collars, namely:

1) Standing collar – collar with a collar stand

2) Flat collar – collar with no collar stand.

a) Examples of standing collars

 Mandarin collar
 Shirt collar (basic shirt collar and a two-piece shirt collar).
 Button down shirt collar. This is a shirt collar that’s most suitable for
men’s formal wear.
 Turtleneck collar
 Eaton collar etc.

b) Examples of flat collars

 Peter-pan collar
 Shawl collar etc.

8|Page
 2) Front double yoke – this type of collar is cut four times, mainly for
detail and also to provide more structure to the shoulder area.
Suitable for both ladies and menswear
3) Long insert sleeve with cuff.
4) Separate button-stand – this type of button stand is cut and added
separately to the centre front of a garment.
 The other type of button stand is called Built - in button
stand.

Definition of a button-stand: the distance from the center of

the button to the garment edge.

Adding a button-stand: the size of a button stand is

determined by the size of the button and is equal to the
button size x 2.

Example: if the button measures to 1cm, the width of the

button-stand will be 2cm.

5) Shirt sleeve Placket

Different types

1) Continuous bound placket

Figure 2: Image: Continuous bound placket

9|Page
 2) Two-piece placket

Figure: 3: image: two-piece placket

3) Faced placket: this type of sleeve placket can also be

constructed with a zipper as a closure, and therefore
called a Zipped faced placket. It also be constructed with
hook and eyes as closure.

Figure 4: Image: Faced placket with hook and eyes.

6. Basic Sleeve Cuff

Different Types

 Standard cuff, this style is the default for most business and
casual shirts.
 You can choose a one-button or two-button style. Two
buttons allow you to adjust how comfortable the wrist fits.
 Straight cuff or square cuff.
 Shirt cuff circumference can be customized.

 2.Back view: Back yoke

 A back yoke can be cut as a single or double yoke.
 A double yoke is mostly constructed on formal shirts.

10 | P a g e
Section 3: fabrics that are commonly used for shirts.

1. Broadcloth
 This type of fabric is often referred to as poplin–is a tightly woven fabric
with a very simple over-under weave and very little sheen, which
makes it nice and professional.
 Broadcloths are great for guys looking for as little texture as possible in
their fabrics.
 They are generally a thinner, lighter fabric.

Figure 1: Broadcloth shirt fabric

2. Twill
 Twill fabrics are easily recognizable because they will show diagonal
weave or texture.
 The diagonal effect can range from very fine, subtle twills to much
larger Imperial or Cavalry twills.
 Twills will almost always have a bit of shine, though the degree can
depend on the weave, colour, and cotton used.
 Twill is an extremely tight weave, that can come in extremely high
thread counts, some of which might be mistaken for silk.
 Because of the diagonal texture twill is a bit softer than broadcloth and
will drape more easily.

11 | P a g e
  Twill it’s relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles.

Figure 2: Twill shirt fabric

3. Chambray
 Chambray is a plain weave fabric.
 Its classifiable by means of the white threads running in the weft/width
direction such that the fabric has an inconsistent colour to it.

Figure 3: Image: Chambray Fabric

4. Denim
 Denim is commonly known as the fabric that is commonly used for
jeans.
 The construction of denim is that of a twill fabric.
 It is a sturdy, possibly coarser twill often dyed with indigo.
 The denim shirting is a much softer, lighter fabric than what your jeans
are made of.

12 | P a g e
  Denim shirting can come in many forms but generally have a different
colour on the inside than the
outside.

Figure 4: Image: Denim Shirting Fabric

5. Dobby
 Dobby is very similar to Jacquard, although technically different
 Some versions are quite similar to broadcloth in terms of thickness and
weight, while others can be thicker or woven to almost look like twill.
 Many dobby fabrics have stripes woven into them, although some are
solid colours.
 The solid colours tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns woven in
the same colour as the base cloth.

Figure 6: Image: Dobby Dress Shirt Fabric

13 | P a g e
 6. End-on-End
 End-on-end broadcloths are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric
with a distinct contrast colouring.
 It is woven with coloured thread in the warp and white thread in the
weft, it looks like a true solid from a distance, but has more texture
when seen from up close.
 This is a lighter weight type fabric

Figure 7: Image: End on End Dress Shirt Fabric

7. Flannel
 Flannels are warm, fuzzy fabrics that are most often brushed twill or
brushed poplin fabrics.
 They are most regularly 100% cotton, can be found in cotton/wool, and
even cotton/cashmere blends for added warmth.
 These are particularly casual fabrics that are great for cold weather.

Figure 8: Image: Flannel Fabric

14 | P a g e
 8. Poplin
 This is a plain weave fabric that appear to be quite thin, smooth and
flat.
 Commonly found as a pin-stripe type of fabric in different colours.

Figure 8: Image: Poplin Dress Shirt Fabric

9. Herringbone
 Herringbone shirts are popular, more textured shirts for both dress and
casual wear.
 Herringbone is essentially a twill that is mirrored when woven to create
the sort of a “V-shaped” look.
 The fabric’s name comes from its resemblance to the bones of a
herring fish.

Figure 9: Image: Herringbone (Twill) Dress Shirt Fabric

10. Linen
 Linen fabrics are incredibly breathable and, are typically made to be
worn in hot climates.

15 | P a g e
  Linen is made from fiber of the flax plant, and can be very labour
intensive to produce.
 Linen also tends to wrinkle more easily than cotton and generally feels
much more relaxed because of this, as a result some people prefer
cotton/linen blended shirts as you can achieve much of the coolness
of a linen shirt while reducing the wrinkling.

Figure 6: Image: Linen Dress Shirt Fabric

16 | P a g e