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Introduction
The primary purpose of a roof is to protect the building from rain, snow, sun and wind.
Roofs also affect the appearance of a building. Roofs provide some mechanical protection against
falling objects, although hail damage for example, is common. Roof coverings are not intended to
keep out the cold. Most roofs are very poor insulators.
Roofing
There are two main categories of roofing systems: sloped roofs and flat roofs.
Roofing professionals call these steep roofs and low sloped roofs. Sloped roofing systems
are not watertight; they shed water with overlapping shingles or tiles. Flat roofs, on the other hand,
are watertight membranes. Flat roof is a bad name, since roofs should never be perfectly fl at. They
should slope to allow water to drain off them, because water standing on the roof will damage the
membrane, and the weight of water can deflect the roof structure.
The difference between sloped roofs and fl at roofs is the slope, or pitch, of the roof. The
slope is described as a ratio of the vertical rise over a set horizontal run. The run is always defined
as 12 feet. Therefore, a 6-in-12 roof would have a vertical rise of 6 feet over a horizontal distance of
12 feet. Roofs with a slope greater than 4-in-12 are considered sloped. Roofs with a slope between
4-in-12 and 2-in-12 are considered low slope, and roofs with a slope less than 2-in-12 are
considered flat.
Just to make it confusing, professional roofers describe anything with a slope of more than
2-in-12 as steep roofing. Anything less is low sloped roofing.
TINSMITH ROOF COMPONENTS
A. FLASHING
Flashing helps direct the flow of water around openings. Since water can seep into your home’s
walls, deteriorating building materials, causing structural damage, and creating moisture and mold
problems, it is very important to properly install flashing when constructing a new house or
altering the exterior of a house. Flashing is used beneath the first course above ground level in a
masonry building, above all wood trim on shelves, doors, and windows, where exterior stairs and
decks attach to the house, and around any features in the roof structure. Below are some of the
common flashing details on residential roofs.
When working on the roof, make sure you take the necessary precautions. To safely work on a roof,
you will need secure scaffolding and a roofing ladder. If you are installing a skylight, remember to
never step on the skylight. Never put tools or materials on the skylight. Screens and platforms are
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available to protect you from falls. If you are unsure about how to make your DIY jobsite safe,
contact your local OSHA office.
Flashing Materials
Flashing can be made of sheet metal, plastic or composite materials. Sheet metal flashing is the most
durable, and usually the most expensive choice. Copper or stainless steel can be used as flashing.
Plastic flashing, usually PVC-based, is a less expensive alternative to metal, but if parts are exposed,
it can wear with direct sun contact.
Dormer
Metal flashing is usually chosen for dormer windows. Flashing squares are inserted between each
row of roofing material. Flashing can also be used as a strip that runs around the dormer and under
the roofing material. Unlike other windows in your home, the flashing is also extended into a front
apron, which overlaps the roof material. As dormer size and window style vary from house to
house, the details can be different for your house.
Skylight
Flashing around skylights is usually a continuous piece. Skylights are raised using a wood curb,
allowing enough room for flashing material. The National Roofing Contractors Association
recommends that this is an 8-inch vertical run. If you are reroofing your house you may need to
raise or remove your skylight for the installation of proper flashing. Even if your skylight is
manufactured with flashing attached, you may need additional flashing
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Vents
No matter the shape of your roof, vents are a common feature of any roof structure. If you are
roofing around an already-installed vent, you may need to alter the height of the flashing detail
around the vent. If you are cutting out a hole in your roof to accommodate a new vent, be careful to
cut a clean hole, to minimize any extra work that will be needed to complete your project.
Hood Vent
Hoods can vent through the wall or through the roof. In order to save time, materials, and potential
for problems, always choose the shortest option for venting. Shown here is a roofing option. If you
are installing a new vent, you will be cutting a hole in the roof. After placing the vent in the hole, slip
the flashing flange under the shingles above the vent. The flashing will be over the shingles below
the vent. Seal the joints. Place the vent cap on top of the vent.
Pipe Vent
When you are roofing around a pipe vent (also called a pipe stack), you will need to cut out the
shape of the pipe from the row of shingles. Fit the shingle row around the bottom part of the pipe.
Then, slide pipe flashing over the pipe so that it extends 4 inches below the pipe, 8 inches above the
pipe, and 6 inches to the right and left. The bottom part of the flashing will overlap the shingle row,
as shown.
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Chimney Flashing
Metal or PVC-based strips cover the joint between the roof and the chimney. They are bent in the
corner and overlapped on one side by the edges of the shingles, and on the other by the cap
flashing, which is attched into the mortor joints of the chimney’s brickwork.
B. VALLEY ROLLS
Valley Rolls or Valley should have flashings. Metal valley flashings are better but more expensive
than roll roofing. Where the flashing is visible, it is known as an open valley. Metal valley flashings
are typically 24 inches wide; however, much of the material is hidden by the shingles. When roll
roofing is used, two layers are installed; one being 18 inches wide, and the top one 36 inches wide.
Sometimes a valley roll is installed and then covered with shingles. This is called a closed valley.
These may be closed cut or fully woven.
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C. RIDGE ROLLS
Flexible shingles (such as asphalt) are simply cut and bent over hips and ridges to make them
watertight. Metal flashings are often used with brittle roofing materials (wood shingles, slate, and
asbestos cement) at the ridges and hips. Flashings may also be made from the roofing material. On
some roofs, the flashing is covered by a layer of shingles.
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D. GUTTER
Gutter systems come in materials such as aluminum, vinyl, stainless or galvanized steel, and
copper. Aluminum units are the most common types of gutters and come in a range of
colors to match or complement the color of the home. Vinyl gutters resist rust and install
easily. Galvanized steel systems are cost-efficient and long-lasting while stainless steel units
offer both strength and visual appeal. Copper gutters are attractive, easy to care for and
impervious to rust. However, copper is the most expensive of these gutter materials.
Two basic types of gutter systems are available.
The first kind is a sectional system constructed of separate pieces in lengths up to
20 feet. The pieces connect with clips. This style of gutter is easier to transport and install
for the do-it-yourselfer because the sections are manageable for just a couple of
installers.While sectional gutters may develop leaks at the junctures, they are fairly easy to
repair.
The second type of system is called seamless. It is created to order and must be
installed by a professional, who will bring the necessary trimming equipment on site.
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Seamless gutters are composed primarily of one continuous piece, but they do have a
limited number of small seams at the corners and the drain outlets that could become
sources of leakage.
E. DOWNSPOUT
Downspouts are vertical pipes that are used to divert rain water away from a buildings
foundation.
Downspouts are an important tool in your home’s fight against preventing water
damage. A house without gutters and downspouts is much more susceptible to
moisture damage and corrosion than homes that do have such a drainage system in
place.
As water accumulates on your home’s roof, either from rainfall, snowfall or
condensation, it slopes down the roof into a gutter system; gutters collect and
prevent water from dripping along the side of your house, where it would otherwise
drench homeowners and passersby. Plus, without gutters, water would puddle
around the base of your home, posing further damage threats to your basement and
your home’s exterior and foundation.
Downspouts are the vertical, pipe-like devices connected to gutters, installed
along the sides of buildings, which redirect water and safely lead it away from your
home and towards a designated drainage area.
we have the following styles of downspouts to choose from:
Rectangular Downspouts: 2x3,3x4,4x5
Plain Round Downspouts: 3",4",5",6"
Round Corrugated Downspouts: 3",4",5",6"
Spiral Downspouts (Thick & Thin): 4"
The locations of down-spouts depends on the configuration, architectural features and
appearance of the building. The technical considerations include:
1. Each downspout should drain a maximum of 50 feet of gutter. Gutter expansion
characteristics may further limit the distances, since water cannot flow past an expansion
joint.
2. Avoid locations where water must flow around a corner to reach a downspout.
3. In locations where icing occurs, downspouts on the north side of the building should be
avoided, if possible.
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F. COUNTER FLASHING
Counterflashing, also referred to as “cap” flashing, is the first line of defense against water
infiltrating your building. Counterflashing is the piece of metal that is applied to the masonry
wall designed to shed water off of the wall and down onto the roof surface. So, it’s critical that
you choose the best counterflashing system for your roofing project.
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Now, let’s understand counterflashing. In a typical masonry wall application there are three
basic types; through-wall counterflashing, reglet counterflashing, and surface-mounted
counterflashing.
Through-Wall Counterflashing
Exactly as titled, this type of flashing extends through the exterior masonry, and ties into the
wall cavity. This type of flashing is the best method of protection against moisture and water
leaking into your building. However, this method needs to be incorporated into the original
construction of your wall, otherwise it’s nearly impossible or very expensive to install as a
repair.
Surface-Mounted Counterflashing
This method uses metal cap flashing that is attached to the wall and sealed along the top
edge with a bead of caulk. This is the fastest, easiest, and least expensive method of
counterflashing. While effective if properly installed, it is also the most likely to fail. Surface-
Mounted flashing is heavily reliant on caulk, and requires regular maintenance to ensure the
flashing remains in a water tight condition.
Reglet Counterflashing
When through-wall flashing is not a realistic option, the next best method is to cut a reglet.
A reglet is ¾” to 1 ½” deep cut in the masonry. This cut is formed using a grinder or masonry
cutting saw. This method allows the installer to insert the counterflashing into the wall. The
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inserted piece of metal flashing is then packed with lead plugs, and the reglet opening is filled
with polyurethane caulk. This additional step of cutting a reglet provides an extra layer of
protection against water intrusion, and is typically recommended over surface mounted
flashing.
G. HIP ROLL
Ridges and hips are the location of the roof where maximum heat is
concentrated, below the tiles. It is very important to exhaust this heat in order to have a
comfortable roof. In addition, it is also important to have a waterproofing system to avoid
the risk of leaks. To tackle this issue and avoid the accumulation of un-aesthetic mortar on
the roof, MONIER has developed COMPACTROLL®
Compactroll is a new and universal solution for dry ridge and hip fixing. Essential
components of Compactroll are the flexible side parts. The integrated metal grid and special
adhesive strips allow easy and long lasting attachment to plain and profiled roofing
materials.
With integrated stretch parts on both sides, Compactroll can also be used on bolder profiled
roof tiles such as the Elabana. The mid-section is made of water-repellent fleece with very
high ventilation value.
H. SIDINGS
Siding or wall cladding is the protective material attached to the exterior side of a wall of
a house or other building. Along with the roof, it forms the first line of defense against the
elements, most importantly sun, rain/snow, heat and cold, thus creating a stable, more
comfortable environment on the interior side. The siding material and style also can enhance
or detract from the building's beauty. There is a wide and expanding variety of materials to
side with, both natural and artificial, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. Masonry
walls as such do not require siding, but any wall can be sided. Walls that are internally
framed, whether with wood, or steel I-beams, however, must always be sided.
Most siding consists of pieces of weather-resistant material that are smaller than the wall
they cover, to allow for expansion and contraction of the materials due to moisture and
temperature changes. There are various styles of joining the pieces, from board and batton,
where the butt joints between panels is covered with a thin strip (usually 1 to 2 inches wide)
of wood, to a variety of clapboard, also called lap siding, in which planks are laid horizontally
across the wall starting from the bottom, and building up, the board below overlapped by the
board above it. These techniques of joinery are designed to prevent water from entering the
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walls. Siding that does not consist of pieces joined together would include stucco, which is
widely used in the Southwest. It is a plaster-like siding and is applied over a lattice, just like
plaster. However, because of the lack of joints, it eventually cracks and is susceptible to water
damage. Rainscreen construction is used to improve siding's ability to keep walls dry.
Thatch siding
Thatch is an ancient and very widespread building material used on roofs and walls. Thatch siding
is made with dry vegetation such as longstraw, water reeds, or combed wheat reed. The materials
are overlapped and weaved in patterns designed to deflect and direct water.
Wood siding
Wood siding is very versatile in style and can be used on a wide variety of building structures. It can
be painted or stained in any color palette desired.
Though installation and repair is relatively simple, wood siding requires more maintenance than
other popular solutions, requiring treatment every four to nine years depending on the severity of
the elements to which it is exposed. Ants and termites are a threat to many types of wood siding,
such that extra treatment and maintenance that can significantly increase the cost in some pest-
infested areas.
Wood is a moderately renewable resource and is biodegradable. However, most paints and stains
used to treat wood are not environmentally friendly and can be toxic. Wood siding can provide
some minor insulation and structural properties as compared to thinner cladding materials.
Shingles
Wood shingles or irregular cedar "shake" siding was used in early New England construction, and
was revived in Shingle Style and Queen Anne style architecture in the late 19th century.
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Clapboards
"Live edge" weather board siding and rare weatherboard roofing. Oil Creek State Park Adirondack
Shelter
Wood siding in overlapping horizontal rows or "courses" is called clapboard, weatherboard(British
English), or bevel siding which is made with beveled boards, thin at the top edge and thick at the
butt.
In colonial North America, Eastern white pine was the most common material. Wood siding can also
be made of naturally rot-resistant woods such as redwood or cedar.
Drop siding
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Jointed horizontal siding (also called "drop" siding or novelty siding) may be shiplapped or tongue
and grooved (though less common). Drop siding comes in a wide variety of face finishes, including
Dutch Lap (also called German or Cove Lap) and log siding (milled with curve).
Vertical boards
Vertical siding may have a cover over the joint: board and batten, popular in American
wooden Carpenter Gothic houses; or less commonly behind the joint called batten and
board or reversed board and batten.
Wooden sheet siding
Plywood sheet siding is sometimes used on inexpensive buildings, sometimes with grooves to
imitate vertical shiplap siding. One example of such grooved plywood siding is the type called
Texture 1-11 T1-11 or T111 ("tee-one-eleven"). There is also a product known as reverse board-
and-batten RBB that looks similar but has deeper grooves. Some of these products may be thick
enough and rated for structural applications if properly fastened to studs. Both T-11 and RBB
sheets are quick and easy to install as long as they are installed with compatible flashing at butt
joints.
Stone siding
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Slate shingles may be simple in form but many buildings with slate siding are highly decorative.
Plastic siding
Wood clapboard is often imitated using vinyl siding or uPVC weatherboarding. It is usually
produced in units twice as high as clapboard. Plastic imitations of wood shingle and wood shakes
also exist.
Since plastic siding is a manufactured product, it may come in unlimited color choices and styles.
Historically vinyl sidings would fade, crack and buckle over time, requiring the siding to be
replaced. However, newer vinyl options have improved and resist damage and wear better. Vinyl
siding is sensitive to direct heat from grills, barbecues or other sources. Unlike wood, vinyl siding
does not provide additional insulation for the building, unless an insulation material (e.g., foam) has
been added to the product. It has also been criticized by some fire safety experts for its heat
sensitivity. This sensitivity makes it easier for a house fire to jump to neighboring houses in
comparison to materials such as brick, metal or masonry.
Vinyl siding has a potential environmental cost. While vinyl siding can be recycled, it cannot be
burned (due to toxic dioxin gases that would be released). If dumped in a landfill, plastic siding does
not break down quickly.
Vinyl siding is also considered one of the more unattractive siding choices by many. Although
newer options and proper installation can eliminate this complaint, vinyl siding often has visible
seam lines between panels and generally do not have the quality appearance of wood, brick, or
masonry. The fading and cracking of older types of plastic siding compound this issue. In many
areas of newer housing development, particularly in North America, entire neighbourhoods are
often built with all houses clad in vinyl siding, given an unappealing uniformity. Some cities now
campaign for house developers to incorporate varied types of siding during construction.
Imitation brick or stone–asphalt siding
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A house with imitation brick siding
Imitation brick siding installed over wooden siding
A predecessor to modern maintenance free sidings was asphalt brick siding. Asphalt impregnated
panels (about 2 feet by 4 feet) gave the appearance of brick or even stone. Many buildings still have
this siding, especially old sheds and garages. If the panels are straight and level and not damaged,
the only indication that they are not real brick may be seen at the corner caps. Trademarked names
included Insulbrick, Insulstone, Insulwood. Commonly used names now are faux brick, lick it and
stick it brick, and ghetto brick. Often such siding is now covered over with newer metal or plastic
siding. Today thin panels of real brick are manufactured for veneer or siding. {needs date of first
use of asphalt brick siding}
Insulated siding
Insulated siding has emerged as a new siding category in recent years. Considered an improvement
over vinyl siding, insulated siding is custom fit with expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) that is fused
to the back of the siding, which fills the gap between the home and the siding.
Products provide environmental advantages by reducing energy use by up to 20 percent. On
average, insulated siding products have an R-value of 3.96, triple that of other exterior cladding
materials. Insulated siding products are typically Energy Star qualified, engineered in compliance
with environmental standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy and the United States
Environmental Protection Agency.
In addition to reducing energy consumption, insulated siding is a durable exterior product,
designed to last more than 50 years, according to manufacturers. The foam provides rigidity for a
more ding- and wind-resistant siding, maintaining a quality look for the life of the products. The
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foam backing also creates straighter lines when hung, providing a look more like that of wood
siding, while remaining low maintenance.
Manufacturers report that insulated siding is permeable or "breathable", allowing water vapor to
escape, which can protect against rot, mold and mildew, and help maintain healthy indoor air
quality.
Metal Siding
Metal siding comes in a variety of metals, styles, and colors. It is most often associated with modern,
industrial, and retro buildings. Utilitarian buildings often use corrugated galvanized steel sheet
siding or cladding, which often has a coloured vinyl finish. Corrugated aluminiumcladding is also
common where a more durable finish is required, while also being lightweight for easy shaping and
installing making it a popular metal siding choice.
Formerly, imitation wood clapboard was made of aluminium (aluminium siding). That role is
typically played by vinyl siding today. Aluminium siding is ideal for homes in coastal areas (with
lots of moisture and salt), since aluminium reacts with air to form aluminium oxide, an extremely
hard coating that seals the aluminium surface from further degradation. In contrast, steel
forms rust, which can weaken the structure of the material, and corrosion-resistant coatings for
steel, such as zinc, sometimes fail around the edges as years pass. However, an advantage of steel
siding can be its dent-resistance, which is excellent for regions with severe storms—especially if the
area is prone to hail.
The first architectural application of aluminium was the mounting of a small grounding cap on
the Washington Monument in 1884. Sheet-iron or steel clapboard siding units had been patented in
1903, and Sears, Roebuck & Company had been offering embossed steel siding in stone and brick
patterns in their catalogues for several years by the 1930s. ALCOA began promoting the use of
aluminium in architecture by the 1920s when it produced ornamental spandrel panels for
the Cathedral of Learning and the Chrysler and Empire State Buildings in New York. The exterior of
the A.O. Smith Corporation Building in Milwaukee was clad entirely in aluminium by 1930, and 3'-
square siding panels of Duralumin sheet from ALCOA sheathed an experimental exhibit house for
the Architectural League of New York in 1931. Most architectural applications of aluminium in the
1930s were on a monumental scale, and it would be another six years before it was put to use on
residential construction.
In the first few years after World War II, manufacturers began developing and widely distributing
aluminium siding. Among them Indiana businessman Frank Hoess was credited with the invention
of the configuration seen on modern aluminium siding. His experiments began in 1937 with steel
siding in imitation of wooden clapboards. Other types of sheet metal and steel siding on the market
at the time presented problems with warping, creating openings through which water could enter,
introducing rust. Hoess remedied this problem through the use of a locking joint, which was formed
by small flap at the top of each panel that joined with a U-shaped flange on the lower edge of the
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previous panel thus forming a watertight horizontal seam. After he had received a patent for his
siding in 1939, Hoess produced a small housing development of about forty-four houses covered in
his clapboard-style steel siding for blue-collar workers in Chicago. His operations were curtailed
when war plants commandeered the industry. In 1946 Hoess allied with Metal Building Products of
Detroit, a corporation that promoted and sold Hoess siding of ALCOA aluminium. Their product was
used on large housing projects in the northeast and was purportedly the siding of choice for a 1947
Pennsylvania development, the first subdivision to solely use aluminium siding. Products such as
4", 6", 8" and 10" X 12' unpainted aluminium panels, starter strips, corner pieces and specialized
application clips were assembled in the Indiana shop of the Hoess brothers. Siding could be applied
over conventional wooden clapboards, or it could be nailed to studs via special clips affixed to the
top of each panel. Insulation was placed between each stud. While the Hoess Brothers company
continued to function for about twelve more years after the dissolution of the Metal Building
Products Corporation in 1948, they were not as successful as rising siding companies like Reynolds
Metals.[1][2]
Masonry siding
Stone and masonry veneer is sometimes considered siding, are varied and can accommodate a
variety of styles—from formal to rustic. Though masonry can be painted or tinted to match many
color palettes, it is most suited to neutral earth tones, and coatings such as roughcast and
pebbeldash. Masonry has excellent durability (over 100 years), and minimal maintenance is
required. The primary drawback to masonry siding is the initial cost.
Precipitation can threaten the structure of buildings, so it is important that the siding will be able to
withstand the weather conditions in the local region. For regions that receive a lot of rain, exterior
insulation finishing systems (EIFS) have been known to suffer underlying wood rot problems with
excessive moisture exposure.
The environmental impact of masonry depends on the type of material used. In general, concrete
and concrete based materials are intensive energy materials to produce. However, the long
durability and minimal maintenance of masonry sidings mean that less energy is required over the
life of the siding.
Composite siding
Various composite materials are also used for siding: asphalt shingles, asbestos, fiber
cement, aluminium (ACM), fiberboard, hardboard, etc. They may be in the form of shingles or
boards, in which case they are sometimes called clapboard.
Composite sidings are available in many styles and can mimic the other siding options. Composite
materials are ideal for achieving a certain style or 'look' that may not be suited to the local
environment (e.g., corrugated aluminium siding in an area prone to severe storms; steel in coastal
climates; wood siding in termite-infested regions).
Costs of composites tend to be lower than wood options, but vary widely as do installation,
maintenance and repair requirements. Not surprisingly, the durability and environmental impact of
composite sidings depends on the specific materials used in the manufacturing process.
Fiber cement siding is a class of composite siding that is usually made from a combination of
cement, cellulose (wood), sand, and water. They are either coated or painted in the factory or
installed and then painted after installation. Fiber cement is popular for its realistic look, durability,
low-maintenance properties, and fire resistance. Composite siding products containing cellulose
(wood fibers) have been shown to have problems with deterioration, delamination, or loss of
coating adhesion in certain climates or under certain environmental conditions.
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A younger class of non-wood synthetic siding has sprouted in the past 15 years. These products are
usually made from a combination of non-wood materials such as polymeric resins, fiberglass, stone,
sand, and fly ash and are chosen for their durability, curb appeal, and ease of maintenance. Given
the newness of such technologies, product lifespan can only be estimated, varieties are limited, and
distribution is sporadic.
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