Chapter 1
Chapter 1
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
mankind. Textile industry in India is one of the few sectors, which is truly
textile production. As a result, it has carved out a niche in the global market
and customers from different parts of the world saree their requirements
from India. One of the centres in India which attracted such customers in
international market.
the sector for expansion and modernization of existing units as also for
introducing new initiatives. It has schemes for the textile industry in recent
With favourable market conditions within the country and abroad and
positive policy inputs from the government, have made the Karur textile
The textile industry is one of the largest and oldest industries and a
major foreign exchange earner for the country. At present, it add 14% of
has been the one of the fastest in the world on deliveries and consistent in
quality.
India has a diverse and rich textile tradition. The origin of Indian
textiles can be traced to the Indus valley civilization. The people of this
needles made of bone and spindles made of wood, amply suggesting that
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the Rig Veda, which refers to weaving. The ancient Indian epics the
times. The Ramayana on the one hand refers to the rich styles worn by the
aristocracy and on the other the simple clothes worn by the commoners and
ascetics.
from the various sculptures belonging to Mauryan and Gupta age as well as
from ancient Buddhist scripts and murals (Ajanta caves). Legend says that
Buddha, she wore a richly woven semi transparent sari, which speaks
India had numerous trade links with the outside world and the Indian
textiles were popular in the ancient world. The Indian silk was popular in
cotton material originating from Gujarat have been found in the Egyptian
1 www.aepcindia.com
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tombs at Fostat, belonging to 5th century A.D. Cotton textiles were also
Silk fabrics from India were exported to Indonesia during the 13th
countries and the Far East before the corning of the Europeans to India.
The British East Indian Company also traded Indian cotton and silk fabrics,
which included the famous Dacca muslins. Muslins from Bengal, Bihar and
Orissa were also popular abroad. (Muslin - a very thin cotton material)
(Chintz - cotton cloth, printed with flowery patterns that have a shiny
appearance).
The past traditions of the textile and handlooms can still be seen
amongst the motifs, patterns, designs, and the old techniques of weaving,
TRADITIONS
of raw material, etc. A variety of raw materials like silk, cotton, wool, jute,
etc., are used in India for creating fabric. The geo-climatic and bio diversity
India. Local, foreign markets and export potential dictate the traditional
The hilly and alpine regions of the country have a rich array of
Kashmir are fine examples of the woolen textile of our country. So are the
shawls and garments from Himachal Pradesh and the North Eastern states.
Shawls from these regions are also popular abroad. The textiles from the
arid and semi arid regions are bright and have rich embroidery on them.
The people in the coastal areas of the south and eastern regions prefer
garments made of white fabrics44. Cotton and silk textiles are popular in
these areas. Utilitarian items such as cushions, bed sheets, covers, table
mats, napkins, curtains, etc are produced throughout the country. Each state
Silk and cotton weaving are the weaving traditions of India. Silk
Paithan, etc., There are numerous centers, which specialize in silk and
3 www.textilemagazine.com
4 UNCTAD (1994) UNCTAD Statistical Pocket Book.,
6
cotton sari weaving. The famous himroo and mushroo fabrics of Hyderabad
are splendid examples of mixed fabric (cotton and silk). The mulberry silk
which is largely produced in Assam is also a rare variety of silk used for
mulberry silk outfit in the New Year festival of Assam called bihu. It is a
since ancient times. Punjab is famous for its Phulkari work, which is a rich
form of Appliqu. Appliqu work from Kutch region of Gujarat is also very
ornate and is done on bright fabrics. It is also famous amongst the tribals of
famous for its Chikan style of embroidery, so is the crewel work from
Kashmir, Gujarat, Punjab, Karnataka, Rajasthan and West Bengal has their
Tie and dye, hand printing and block printing are common across the
country and come in numerous styles influenced by local factors. The Tie
and dye technique of printing in particular is popular in the arid and semi
arid regions of the country. The states of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and
The cotton textile industry is one of the oldest and most firmly
first grown and put to use in India before where else in the world. India has
Composite mills (Spinning and Weaving) sectors. The industry has been
exporting its products for more than 3,000 years and is now strengthened
with the collaboration of other allied industries 6. In the year 2004 it was
observed that the combined textile industry was the second largest industry
next only to agriculture with 3,000 mills in India and with the total
5 Dutt & Sundaram, (1996) Indian Economy, S. Chand & Company, New Delhi, p. 571.
6 www.textilemagazine.org – March 2005.
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and accounting for 35 per cent of the gross export earnings. It is also India's
mill sector8.
The industry is spread across all the states of India but two thirds of
with 1,460 organized units, 32 million spindles, 1.7 million power looms, 4
industry, Gujarat and Maharastra account for 50 per cent of the total
spindles installed and 70 per cent of the tota1 100ms in the cotton textile
production; employment of large workforce and the other fact that it not
only caters to the clothing needs of the community but also generates
7 Agarwal Navdeep & Singla, A study of textile companies in India, The Icfian Journal
of Management Research, The ICFAI University Press, Hyderabad, April 2006, Pp 49-
52.
8 www.textilemagazine.org – December 2005.
9 Dutt & Sundaram, (1996) Indian Economy, S. Chand & Company, New Delhi, p. 571.
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industry is therefore vital to the economic growth of the country as also for
articles of apparel and clothing accessories made of textiles. The first cloth
was developed in 1847 and with that application; there was a high speed
This new technique slowly moved from one part of the world to the other
parts of the world. With this prospect the industry since 1920 has
experienced tremendous growth and was able to make clothing items more
The trade related policies in .general and the MFA followed by ATC
which cut and/or stitch / make up garments out of woven on knitted fabrics
The global textile industry is integrated with almost all nations of the
world where from the availability of the requirements for the garment
industry emerges. This integration was popular during the first quarter of
the 19th century and was found to be high to emerge and develop as
promising unit since then14. A manual both by men in factory and women
during the second half of the 19th century provided accessibility to the
garment products in large measures. During the First World War the very
first large scale manufacturing unit was set up for the stitching of uniforms
for the army and after that these units and their facilities were converted to
13 Sathya Sundaram, Facts for you, Cotton Textile Exports Set to Skyrocket, June 2005,
p. 12.
14 Hildegunn Kyvik Nordas, The Global Textile and Clothing Industry Post the
Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, WTO Discussion paper No. : 5, Geneva, 2004, Pp.
1-5.
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ready to wear garment producing units and a new phase of growth was
evolved.
World War and the fast and quick demand for uniform strengthened the
industry and the post- war period signified the mass production and
The year 1920 has resulted with a large innovation and the
the year 2000 the world garment trade across nations amounted to US $
200 billion and has crossed US $ 300 billion in 2005, the future projection
Associates 2005).
products at global level. The first being the suppliers capable of exporting
high quality items of textile namely South Korea, Taiwan, Turkey' and
China. The second being the exporter of fashion textile product in the low
to medium price range, they are India, Pakistan and Indonesia. The third
being exporters who highly depend on imported fabrics and accessories for
the recent global crisis. Factors in the recent crisis include a reduction in
Rising energy prices hurt industry. Also, there is no guarantee that supply
towels. Shower curtains, bathroom ensemble, table linen / damask and bed
spread are categorized under linens, product such as sheets cases mattress
pads, blankets and blanket covers comforters and quilts, embroidery and
lace are coming under domestic products. However based on exports are
categories.
1. Bed lines
2. Bath liner
5. Blankets
7. Made Ups
1. Bed lines
a. Bed sheet
is in use.
b. Bed spread
c. Bed cover
e. Pillow cover
f. Pillow case
g. Boister case
h. Cushion cover
2. Bath liner
a. Terry towels
b. Bath towels
c. Dish towels
e. Hand towels
f. Face towels
g. Beach towels
h. Bath mates
Towels can be either flat or terry towel sizes of these towels vary
sizes for terry towel are 132cm x 76cm, 140cm x 80cm, 75cm x 35cm.
items.
a. Table mat
b. Place mat
c. Table runners
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d. Table toppers
e. Table centers
f. Table cloth
g. Table cover
i. Tea napkins
j. Tea towels
k. Kitchen towels
m. Table cloth
n. Table cover
furnishing.
o. Tray cloth
Table mats, placemats, table toppers, tea napkins, kitchen tools, etc.,
are normally made of coarse or heavy fabrics made normally from 1bs, 2bs,
The export potential and these products also very good, Karur and
Cannanore are the two major production centers for these products. India
availability of cheaper and good quality cotton yarns, high design skills and
i. Curtains
ii. Draper
v. Sofa cover
Curtains cover
Curtain valance
Bed valance
Cushion cover
heavier fabrics.
5. Blankets
Blankets are normally woven with course to very coarse cotton yarn.
i. Blankets
Blankets are also made of wool or acrylic. These are made in both
organized and decentralized factor. India is the one of the largest producers
wool and silk are manufactured in some of the southern state of India.
i. Carpets
ii. Durries
iii. Rugs
v. Door mats
The term floor coverings means, carpets rugs, mats and matting in
7. Made Ups
class of income textiles products. Made – ups home textiles are produced
The following eleven states are major centers for textiles products in
Code Products
57.02 Floor covering carpets, durries.
63.02 Thick bed linen, bed sheets, towels and toweling
sheetings napkins.
63.03 Curtains
63.04 Furnishing, pillow covers, house hold jacquard
furnishings linen and home furnishings, cotton bed
spreads, hangings bead covers, house hold linens.
63.07 Tea pot cover
Almost all these states are producing bed sheets except Orissa and
Himachal Pradesh which are producing more of furnishing and thick bed
linens.
Furnishing fabrics
Bed linen
o Bed sheet
o Pillow case
o Duvet cover
o Quilt cover
Table linen
o Table cloth
o Napkin
Kitchen linen
o Tea towels
o Kitchen towels
Toilet linen
o Dish towels
o Bath towels
o Terry towels
Curtains / Drapes
o Curtains
o Drapes
o Curtain valence
o Pelmets
o Shower curtain
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o Bed covers
o Bed spreads
o Cushion cover
o Pillow cover
o Throw
o Dish cloth
o Hammocks
o Pot holders
o Chair pad
o Bread basket
Even since the civilization of human beings, they have been giving
human beings once cloth was manufactured from animal’s scar case. After
that fiber taken from plants were used to manufacture the cloth. Because of
success of this business in second stage. In the selected district Karur 350
exporting textile units are doing the business very well. They provide vast
country like India textile units are the major contributor to development of
units India can’t even dream of the sizable export. This situation stimulates
Karur district.
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The textile items in the form of liners and products are very
important and this importance can be seen in the launching of high tech
processing units. There is a big demand for the manufacturing and supply
the study area ie. Karur district which plays a major role as this district has
since 1950 and has grown from strength to strength. At present, there is a
visible change as this District has emerged as textile capital of the country.
take up this research study from the perspective of the exporters from
export growth, labour employed, working hours and the strategies required
OBJECTIVES
HYPOTHESIS
profitability
capital investment.
METHODOLOGY
Pilot study
To initiate the work a pilot study was carried out by the researcher in
twenty five (25) units the export textile from Karur. The researcher
personally visited twenty five units and collected data using the
identify the important areas to be covered for the collection of data relating
to the study. Based on this the refinement of questionnaire was made for
Questionnaire
and non-disguised type of questions and closed ended questions were used
Sample design
Keeping in view the problem and scope of the study, the researcher
has decided to classify all the textile units into two categories. They are
Sample technique
At the time of initiating the research work in the year 2006 – 2007
they were 350 textiles exporting units in Karur district. Sample 100 units
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small and large scale units were selected for the study. These one hundred
units were selected based on the simple random sampling method. The
units associated with any of the exporters associations and carrying on the
business of export of textile products. The sample units were drawn from
the list available from the Association of Exporters available in Karur. They
were classified into small and large units on the basis of number of
workers.
Tools of analysis
Statistical Packages for Social Studies (SPSS) was used for analysis. The
The study has been conducted for a period of five years from 2006-
2007 to 2010-2011.
Taking into consideration the objectives of the study and its coverage
in terms of time span and study is prone to many limitations. Some of the
2. The survey method which was adopted for collecting the data in
4. Various statistical tools extensively used for the study have their
own limitation.
Textiles:
Texture:
Spinning:
Spindles:
Blend:
A term applied to a yam or fabric the yam or fabric the yarn obtained
Loom:
(filling).
Yarn:
etc.,
Fibre:
twisting.
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Decentralized sectors:
Outsourcing:
effective manner.
Tiny Sector:
Small unit :
Large units:
CHAPTER SCHEME
The first chapter “Design of study” deals with the blue print of the
units” deals with the major factors which determine the performance of
textile units.
district” deals with determining factor for the performance of the textile