Finishing Faults/Defects | Different Types of Textile

Finishing Faults/Defects with Their Causes

Fabric Finishing:
A series of processing operations applied to gray fabrics to enhance their
appearance and hand, properties and possible applications. 
 Play a fundamental role for the commercial excellence of the results of
textiles. 
 The most simple form of finishing is the ironing or pressing on the
fabric. 
 In finishing , the fabric is subjected to mechanical and chemical
treatment in which its quality and appearance are improved and its
commercial value enhanced.  
 Physical finishing techniques (dry finishing processes) or chemical
finishing methods (wet finishing) are used.

Finishing
defects
Functional finish: Wear ability, Hand, Mechanical resistance, Easy care,
Wet ability, Wash ability, Deformability, Anti bacterial, Anti fungal, Soil-proof
and Fire-proof ability.

Aesthetic finishes: Aesthetic looks

Finishing Defects:
The defects which are occurred in finishing process are enlisted below:
1. Unwanted marks on fabric
2. Decolorized patch on fabric
3. Pin holes
4. Sanforize Pucker
5. Bowing
6. Pilling
7. Water Spots
8. Cuts or Nicks
9. Seam Tears
10. Soil
11. Streaks
12. Inadequate Pressing
13. Pressing Producing Shine on Fabric
14. Loose Threads
15. Askewed or Bias
16. Folding Defects
Unwanted marks on fabric:
Oily stains with dust adhered to surface which makes the stains more
prominent and difficult to remove, due to contact with oil or grease covered
exposed machine parts, careless handling could be another cause.

Decolorized patch on fabric:

Caused due to

 Chemical spillage on fabric.

 Localized excess bleaching.
 Localized excess enzyme wash.
 Can be result into weakening of the fabric.
Pin holes :
 Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes
through stenter frame.
 Major defect if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be
visible in the finished product.
Sanforize Pucker :
 Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize.
 Usually caused by defective spray heads.
 Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table.
 Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine with fabric
under roller tension.
Bowing :
 Usually caused by finishing.
 Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits the course
lines lie an arc across width of goods.
 Establish standards of acceptance.
 Critical on stripes or patterns; not as critical on solid color fabrics.
Pilling:
 Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and woven
fabrics.
 In producing a yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted produce a serviceable
yarn. When short stable fibers are mixed into the yarn the result is a yarn
that will not hold together. The short staple fibers will separate from the
yarn and curl up in a ball, forming what is referred to as a pill.
 Pilling is accentuated by the friction of normal wear, washing and
routine dry cleaning.
Water Spots :
 Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before
drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots.
Selvage Torn : 
 Usually caused by excessive tension while processing through stenter
frames.
Cuts or Nicks :
 Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or mechanical
trimmers.
Seam Tears :
 Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to reverse garments
in finishing.
Soil :
 Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating from a dirty work
area or machinery not properly cleaned
Streaks :
 Markings caused by some types of turn boards or defectively finished
trimming.
Inadequate Pressing :
 Caused by excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor pleating,
fullness or twisting of a seam on garment surface.
Pressing Producing Shine on Fabric:
 Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of pressing surface.
Loose Threads :
 Loose threads will get wound on guide rollers forming ridgesin the
processing machines and cause creases at these places.
 Also loose threads can cause problems of Dye /Print transfer in a
padding / Printing application
Askewed or Bias :
 Condition where filling yarns are not square with wrap yarns on woven
fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.
Folding Defects :
 Garment not Folded to Specifications
 Garment not Folded with proper Materials:
 Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging materials omitted
 Garments not Buttoned, Flys not
 Closed, Incorrect Number of Pins 
 Defects in garments
The national regulatory quality certification and international quality Programmes like ISO 9000 series lay down the
broad quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry.
Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:

 Overall look of the garment.

 Right formation of the garment.
 Feel and fall of the garment.
 Physical properties.
 Colour fastness of the garment.
 Finishing properties
 Presentation of the final produced garment.

There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be over looked:
 Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour garment, but usage of
different colour threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread
tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.
 Colour effects - Colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced garment to
the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
 Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for
example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.
 Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular
hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in
fabric colours.

Various defects in garments:

      Broken buttons
      Broken snaps
      Broken stitching
      Defective snaps
      Different shades within the same garment
      Dropped stitches
      Exposed notches
      Exposed raw edges
      Fabric defects
      Holes
      Inoperative zipper
      Loose / hanging sewing threads
      Misaligned buttons and holes
      Missing buttons
      Needle cuts / chews
      Open seams
      Pulled / loose yarn
      Stain
      Unfinished buttonhole
      Zipper too short
 
Garment defects, classified according to the various manufacturing stages are:

Pattern defects in garment:

Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of parts. Mixed
parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not
facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way
fabric. Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly
printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting. Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker
did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the
pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble
unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may
be having worn out edges.

Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with
puckering and pleating. When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits
missing. Not enough knife clearance freedom. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.

Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full or partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

Spreading defects in garment:

Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with
bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread. Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting
cut with bits missing. Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not
fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances. Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether
'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread
face down, face up, or face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully included
owing to splicing errors. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity.
Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks.

Cutting defects in garment:

Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bottom plies can be a different size if
the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread. Notches, which are misplaced, too
deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit
fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread. Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife,
not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed. Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps
overrunning cutting previous piece. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits missing
at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted. Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.

Garment Twist

A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during
laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or Spirality.

Identification of knitted fabric defects:

It is very natural that in the course of knitting fabrics, imperfections occur. The imperfections may be the result of
faulty yarn, knitting machine malfunction or improper finishing. The defects in knitting construction are considered
in terms of appearance and nature.
 
Various Types of Defects in Knitted Fabrics

Bands and Streaks

There are different kinds of bands and streaks that may occur in knitting. Some of the popular defects are as follows:
    Barrie  Effect: A Barrie effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edges. It is horizontal in weft knits
and vertical in warp knits. The barrie effect is caused by various factors like:
       »  Lack of uniformity in yarn size, color or luster.
       »  Mush tension on the yarns during knitting one section of the fabric.
       »  Uneven shrinkage or other finishing defects.
    Bowing: A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion caused by faulty take-
up mechanism on the knitting machine.
    Streak or Stop Mark: A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is due to the
difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and then restarted.
    Skewing: Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the cloth.
    Needle Lines: Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or looser than the
adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its slot or a defective sinker.

Stitch Defects

There are various kinds of stitch defects like:

    Boardy: The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the stitches have been knit very
tightly.
    Cockled or puckered: If the knitted fabric is cockled or puckered, it is due to uneven stitches or uneven
yarn size.
    Dropped Stitch: This is an un knitted stitch caused either by the yarn carrier not having been set properly
or the stitch having been knitted too loosely.
    Run or ladder: A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.
    Hole: A large hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific needle feed so that knitting cannot
occur.
    Tucking: This is the result of an unintentional tucking in the knitted fabric. This is also called the bird's eye
defect.
    Float: This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or more needles to have been raised
to catch the yarn.

 
Common Denim Seam Quality Defects
Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:

Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching,
seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure.

Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting

    Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core thread.
    Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
    Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on denim, you normally would like
to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam.
    Use needles with the correct needle point.
    Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.

Broken Stitches:

Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches
must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line.

Minimizing broken Stitches due to abrasion

    Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core thread;
    Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring
    Make sure stitches are balance properly,
    Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Looper due to its lower seam profile making it less susceptible to
abrasion
    Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.

Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation

Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and
seam failure.

 
Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation:
     Use a higher performance Perma Core NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation.
    It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical
washes.
    To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and
that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.

    Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the chemicals in the fabric.
    Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure they are correct so that the best
possible garment quality can be achieved.

Unraveling Seams:

Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred.
This will cause seam failure unless the seam is Re stitched.

Minimizing unraveled Stitches:

    Use a high performance Perma Core or D-Core thread that will minimize broken stitches and skipped
stitches;
    Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
    Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

Restitched Seams

Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st
quality merchandise. Caused by:

1. Thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing; or

2. Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (I.e., stone washing).
 
Minimizing Restitched Seams:
    Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to
minimize sewing interruptions.
    Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
    Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation
    Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

Sagging or Rolling Pockets:

Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after laundering.

Minimizing Sagging or rolling front & back Pockets:

    Make sure the sewing operators are not holding back excessively when setting the front pocket.
    Make sure the hem is formed properly and that excessive fabric is not being being put into the folder that will
cause the hem to roll over.
    Check to make sure pocket is cut properly and that pocket curve is not too deep.
    Use a reinforcement tape on the inside of the pocket that may help prevent the front panel from stretching
along the bias where the front pocket is set.
    The type and weight of denim, along with the fabric construction, may contribute to this problem.

Skipped Stitches:

Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found
where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after the heavy thickness.
Minimizing Skipped Stitches:
      Use core spun thread.
      Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.
      Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging.
      Training sewing operators NOT to stop on the thickness.
      Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.
      Make sure the machine is not back feeding.

 
Ragged / Inconsistent Edge

Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

Solutions to Ragged / Inconsistent Edge:

    Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed often;
    The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the
proper seam width or width bite.

Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:

Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during subsequent
laundering and handling operations.

Solutions for wavy seams on stretch Garments

     Use minimum presser foot pressure
    Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they are making the
seam.
    Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of the fabric.

Ropy Hem:

Where hem is not laying flat and is skewed in appearance.

Solutions for Ropy Hems

    Usually caused by poor operator handling.
    Instruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in the folder before they start
sewing. Also, make sure they don't hold back excessively as the seam is being sewn.
    Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure.

 
Twisted Legs:

Is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans.

Solutions for Twisted Legs:

    Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator to match the front and back properly
so they come out the same length. Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should
NOT trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the same length
    Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly operation.
    Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skew
    Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom plies.

Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim:

Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric.
Solutions to minimizing disappearing stitches on stretch Denim:
    Use a heavier thread size on topstitching.
    Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi).
    Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the thread sits on top of the fabric rather than
burying in the fabric on seams sewn in the warp.

Thread discoloration after Laundry

It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a 'dirty' appearance. A common
discoloration would be the pick-up of a greenish or turquoise tint.

 
Solutions to Thread Discoloration
    Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.
    Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during laundry.
    Use the proper chemicals & laundry cycles.
    Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive
    Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time.

Poor Colorfastness after Laundry is where the thread does not wash down consistently in the garment or
changes to a different color altogether.
Solutions to poor Colorfastness after Laundry:
    Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.
    Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix threads in a garment.
    Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new colors to assure that they will meet your
requirements.
    Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color number and do not just pick a thread off the shelf
because it looks close in color.

Conclusion

Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the value of a product or service,
establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into consumer
satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The perceived quality of a garment is the result of a
number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer. Therefore quality
control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any garment
exporter.

Why textile importers should

conduct color fastness testing
Color fastness is the resistance of a fabric to change in its color
characteristics or to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent materials. Color
fastness issues can be caused by:

 Fiber type: Fibers must be compatible with their chosen dye. A

cellulosic fiber and a vat dye together have good resistance to
fading, for instance, while polyesters perform well with substantive
dyes.
 Dye type: The larger the dye molecule is, the easier it will attach to
the fiber. Some dyes are also water soluble, while other are
insoluble.
Poor color fastness can cause fabric shade

variation or  the staining

of other products. Any number of activities associated with regular use
can reveal these issues, including:

 Washing
 Rubbing
 Exercising
 Sun exposure
 Dry cleaning
 Bleaching
 Ironing

Unlike other types of fabric testing, such as flammability, there are no

mandatory legal requirements for color fastness testing. But color
fastness testing is essential to ensuring customer satisfaction with fabric
products.

Color fastness issues will often prompt consumers to reject the product
and return it or submit a claim. Worse still, the customer will lose
confidence in your brand if they perceive poor performance and durability
in your products.  

QC inspectors can conduct some color fastness testing at a supplier’s

facility before shipping, such as washing or crocking testing (related: 5
On-Site Product Tests for Garment Inspection).

But a professional lab can test your fabric under many conditions that an
inspector can’t replicate on site, such as elevated humidity levels,
continuous sunlight and heavy perspiration.
Asking your inspector or supplier to send samples of your textiles to a
laboratory for further testing can offer added assurance of your product’s
color resilience.  

How professional laboratories evaluate color

fastness
Professional laboratories typically conduct product testing according to
international standards for your target market. Since color fastness
standards are not a legal requirement, importers can typically test their

products to whatever  standard they feel is most

appropriate for their target market.

The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and

the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) color fastness
standards are the most commonly used in the U.S. and EU, respectively.

For most ISO and AATCC color fastness tests, the fabric specimen’s color
after testing is compared to a “Grey Scale for Color Change” and a “Grey
Scale for Staining”.

The Grey Scale for Color Change rates the color fading of the specimen
on a scale from 1 (greatest change) to 5 (no change). The Grey Scale for
Staining rates the staining of an undyed material tested with the
specimen from 1 (greatest color transfer) to 5 (no color transfer).
1. Color fastness to detergent
washing test
Color fastness during washing is one of textile importers’ main concerns.
A textile item must withstand repeated washing throughout its lifecycle
without losing its color properties or staining other articles its washed
with.

Detergent washing testing determines the resistance of textile colors to

domestic or commercial laundering procedures. The two main standards
for detergent washing are ISO 105 C06 and AATCC 61.

Aim for a color change rating of 4 and a color staining rating of 3 to

5 for detergent washing.

ISO 105 C06

There are 16 different ISO 105 C06 test procedures, ranging from A1S to
E2S.

The “S” in the ISO 105 C06 test number refers to a single commercial or
domestic laundering. The “M” refers to multiple washes, or approximately
five domestic or commercial launderings. The “2” test procedures include
a peroxide-based bleach, sodium perborate (NaH2BO4), in the washing
water.

The “A” and “B” ISO 105 C06 test methods are most common, as they test
fabrics at 40°C and 50°C, respectively. The “C”, “D” and “E” methods test
fabrics at higher temperatures with different bleaches and softeners.

AATCC 61
There are five test procedures under AATCC 61, but the most common
test procedures are 1A and 2A. 1A applies to hand washing at 40°C, while
2A applies to machine washing at 49°C.

The lesser used 3A procedure tests fabrics at 71°C, while 4A and 5A add a
chlorine-based bleach, sodium hypochlorite, to the washing water. All
AATCC 61 test procedures mimic five domestic or commercial
launderings.
For both the EU and U.S. standards, the lab washes the fabrics with
stainless steel balls to mimic abrasion. The number of balls, the amount
of detergent and the washing time vary based on the test method.

2. Color fastness to crocking test

(wet and dry rubbing)
“Crocking” is an industry term referring to a transfer of a colorant through
rubbing. The crocking test determines the resistance of textile colors to
rubbing off and staining other materials. A fabric with poor color fastness
could rub colorants off on consumers, furniture, other textiles or
miscellaneous items.

ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8 are the primarily standards for measuring

color fastness to crocking. The standards are partly equivalent and
largely similar in their test methods.

ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8 procedures

In both the ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8 test methods, the test samples are
rubbed with a dry rubbing cloth and then a wet cloth.

The ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8 test methods both use a machine known
as a “crockmeter” to rub the fabric. The crockmeter has a “rubbing
finger” which the lab technician rubs across the fabric by turning a
mechanical lever. The crockmeter applies a stronger force for a longer
period than an inspector can manually apply when performing inspection
at the supplier’s facility.

The rubbing fingers vary in size for pile fabrics and other textiles. The
rubbing direction can also vary based on the type and design of the fabric.
But the crockmeter typically rubs the fabric in the warp and weft
directions separately. The direction is particularly important for striped or
pattern fabrics for which results can vary. 

The staining of the rubbing cloth is then assessed using the Grey Scale
for Staining. Many textile importers will accept a grade 4 rating for dry
rubbing and grade 3 rating for wet. Color fastness to wet rubbing is
typically lower than for dry rubbing for most fabrics.

ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8 vary mostly in the amount of water used to wet
the cloth rubbed on the test specimen. The amount of water is calculated
as “wet pick up”, or the amount of fluid by percent weight picked up by
the fabric. ISO 105 X12 requires the cloth be wetter than that following
the AATCC 8 standard.

3. Color fastness to light test

The color fastness to light test determines the effect of natural sunlight
on textile colors.

All textile colorants are susceptible to some fading in sunlight, as

colorants by nature absorb certain wavelengths. But you don’t want your
colored fabric to fade too quickly over the course of its life.

Color fastness to light testing might be particularly important to

importers of clothing worn predominately outdoors. But even retail
display lighting can cause fading. So all textile importers should consider
this test for their products. 
ISO 105 B02 and AATCC 16 are the most common international
standards for color fastness to light. Both standards test fabrics under a
Xenon Arc lamp that closely resembles natural sunlight. But the
standards vary significantly in their assessment methods.

ISO 105 B02

ISO 105 B02 has four different exposure cycles with different humidity
and temperature levels, including A1, A2, A3 and B. Many importers use
A2 because it mimics extreme low humidity conditions.  

ISO 105 B02 varies from AATCC 16 in that a blue wool reference material
with a known reaction to light is simultaneously exposed to light during
the test. The fading of the test sample is then rated in comparison to the
fading of the blue wool reference. The Blue Wool Scale ranges from 1
(very low color fastness to light) to 8 (very high color fastness to light).

In ISO 105 B02 A2, the lamp can also have either a black panel
(uninsulated) or black standard (insulated) sensor to control the
temperature.

AATCC 16
AATCC 16 includes five different testing options. Option 3 is the most
commonly used because it simulates extreme low humidity conditions
and is most equivalent to the ISO 105 BO2 A2 cycle.

The Option 3 procedure subjects the fabric to continuous light, while

some other AATCC 16 options subject the fabric to alternating light and
dark conditions. Option 3 uses a Xenon lamp with a black panel sensor,
while Option 4 and 5 use black standard sensors.

AATCC 16 differs from ISO 105 B02 in that light exposure in the former
case is measured using a specialized unit of irradiance known as “AATCC
Fading Unit” (AFU). Most apparel units are exposed to 20 AFU and rarely
need to be exposed to more than 40 AFU. Upholstery should be exposed
to 40 AFU and draperies to 60 AFU. The greatest exposure time is 80
hours on this scale.

The color change of the fabric is measured using the Grey Scale for Color
Change, as in other AATCC color fastness test standards. Importers will
typically accept a grade 4 rating for this test.
4. Color fastness to perspiration
test
The color fastness to perspiration test determines the resistance of
textile colors to human perspiration.

Fabric dyes and human perspiration can often react and cause color
fading in clothing items. A color fastness test for perspiration are
particularly relevant for sports apparel and swimwear, which will most
likely be exposed to heavy perspiration during use.

ISO 105 E04 and AATCC 15 are the two main standards for perspiration
testing. For this test, the lab attaches a strip of multifiber fabric to the
test specimen to measure staining. This multifiber fabric has swatches of
different kinds of fibers, such as nylon, cotton, acetate, polyester, wool
and acrylic fabrics.

The lab then compares the staining of the multifiber fabric to the Grey
Scale for Staining, with a desired grade 3 rating. The lab compares the
color of the test specimen with the Grey Scale for Color Change, with a
desired grade 4 rating.  

ISO 105 E04               

During this test, the lab soaks the fabric in a simulated perspiration
solution for 30 minutes under a fixed pressure and then dries it slowly at
an elevated temperature.

ISO 105 E04 tests for color fastness to both acidic and alkaline
perspiration. Human sweat is typically acidic, though it can become
alkaline in higher temperatures or when bacteria are present.
AATCC 15
AATCC 15 only tests color fastness to acidic perspiration. The
AATCC previously included alkaline test methods in the standard but
removed it in 1974, as they didn’t believe it reflected normal end usage.

The drying time, pressure and temperature also vary between ISO 105
E04 and AATCC 15. AATCC 15 requires the fabric to be heated for longer
at a slightly higher temperature than ISO 105 E04.

5. Color fastness to water test

Color fastness to water determines the resistance of textile colors to
immersion in water.

You might think this test sounds like the washing test. But color fastness
to water testing is specifically used to measure the migration of color to
another fabric when wet and in close contact. The washing test also
typically uses a basic PH solution due to the addition of detergent, while
this test is conducted at neutral PH levels.

ISO 105 E01 and AATCC 107 are the most common standards for color
fastness tests to water. The standards are technically equivalent, but
the testing methods vary slightly between them.

ISO 105 E01 and AATCC 107 procedures

For this test, the lab technician attaches a strip of multifiber fabric
specimen to measure staining, as with the perspiration test. The test
specimen and multifiber fabric are immersed together in water under
specific conditions of temperature and time.

After soaking, the fabric is then placed between glass or plastic plates
and dried under specified time, pressure and temperature conditions.

The multifiber fabric is then compared to the Grey Scale for Staining and
the test specimen is compared to the Grey Scale for Color Change. Many
importers will accept a grade 3 rating for staining and a grade 4 for color
change.

ISO 105 E01 and AATCC 107 vary most in the heating time of the test
specimen after immersion. AATCC 107 requires the specimen to be
heated for longer than ISO 105 E01.

Conclusion
Some color fastness tests might be more important to you than others,
depending on the design and intended use of your textile products. Other
standards also exist for color fastness to sea water, chlorinated water,
hot pressing and other unique conditions.

Color fastness issues aren’t usually noticeable until after sale. But textile
fading and staining can cause serious headaches for your business when
customers later discover these issues (related: 3 Ways to Manage
Garment Quality Control).

So if color resilience is important to your customers, don’t take

unnecessary risks. Hire a professional laboratory to test your fabrics and
ensure optimum color fastness levels before your next shipment.

Your fabrics will retain their vivid and vibrant colors for long after the
initial sale, keeping your customers satisfied and coming back for more.
What is colorfastness:
We can define colorfastness as, having color that will not run or fade with washing or
wear. That means characterizes a material's color's resistance to fading or running.
Clothing is colorfast if its colors and dyes do not bleed or run from the clothing. Clothing
should be tested for colorfastness before using any type of bleach or bleaching solution,
or strong cleaning product. Colorfastness is very important factor for
buyer. Colorfastness properties of textiles are an important measure of quality of
a product.

To test for colorfastness, find a hidden seam of the garment or an hidden spot. Apply
the cleaner to the garment and then dab the area with a clean cotton cloth.

If the color removes itself from the garment onto the cloth, you should not use the
cleaning product on the clothing.

Importance of color fastness:

Textile fabric has many properties. Colorfastness property is one of the most important
properties of them. It is a property of a colorant which allows it to retain its different
characteristics despite degradation conditions such as exposure to light and dry
cleaning. Product performance and evaluation to determine if the fabric is suitable for
the intended end use. It is a identity for fabric. If colorfastness is good then fabric quality
high and if poor fastness property then fabric quality is bad. So, colorfastness is the
important factor for the buyer to justify which fabric is bad and which is better.

Different Types of Color Fastness

There are various types of color fastness test for fabric. Important color
fastness tests are given below:

1. Color Fastness to Washing

2. Color Fastness to light
3. Color Fastness to perspiration
4. Color Fastness to Water
5. Color Fastness to Rubbing
6. Color fastness to sea water
7. Color fastness to hot pressing
8. Color fastness to chlorinated water
Crocking
The rubbing off of colors is called as crocking. Crocking is simply the transfer of color
from a fabric onto another white test fabric. The more color is transferred, the more the
fabric "crocks". Crocking determines the amount of color transferred from the surface of
colored textile material to other surfaces by rubbing. The crock meter is used to find
the color fastness to crocking.

Colour Fastness Properties of Textiles

in Fastness

What is color fastness?

Color fastness is a term which is used in the dyeing of textile materials, We can define colorfastness as,
having color that will not run or fade with washing or wear. There are many properties of textile fabrics,
among them colorfastness property is most important. It is a property of a colorant which allows it to
retain its different characteristics despite degradation conditions such as exposure to light and dry
cleaning.

One of the major sources of consumer complaints relating to dyed fabric is their variable and
nonacceptable fastness. Dyed fabrics behave differently when they are in contact with various
conditions like rubbing, washing, perspiration, and exposure to light during the fabric/garment’s life.
Fabric can be fast to one condition but can easily exhibit poor fastness in another condition. Therefore,
it is necessary to test the fabric as per the required end use, and that test method needs to be
mentioned clearly to avoid any complications. Typically, the class of dye, subtype of dye, color of dye,
shade depth, and dyeing process impart significant effects on the final fastness rating of the fabric.

It is also very important to mention how the fastness rating is given. Typically, there are two ways to do
this. One is the subjective assessment of the observer by using the standard gray scales under standard
light conditions as shown in Figures-1 and Figure-2. The rating is given by assessing the difference on the
gray scale rating and comparing it with the obtained similar difference on the tested and nontested
fabric.

Figure-1: Standard gray scale for staining

The final rating is given on the basis of the similar level of difference on the gray scale. However,
different ratings can be given by different observers on the same tested fabric.
 Figure-2: Standard gray scale for coloring

A second rating can be given by the use of an instrument called a spectrophotometer, which is based on
ΔE as shown in Table-1. The rating is still given on the basis of the standard gray scale, which is fed into
the computer system, but it is given by using ΔE and so human error and bias can easily be avoided.

Table-1: Gray Scale Rating of Spectrophotometer Based on ΔE

ΔE Gray Scale

≥0 <0.4 5

≥0.4 <1.25 4–5

≥1.25 <2.10 4

≥2.10 <2.95 3–4

≥2.95 <4.10 3

≥4.10 <5.80 2–3

≥5.80 <8.20 2

≥8.20 <11.60 1–2

≥11.60 1
Different Types of Color Fastness of Fabrics:
There are various types of color fastness test for fabric. Important color fastness tests are given below:
1. Color fastness to rubbing
2. Color fastness to washing
3. Color fastness to light
4. Color fastness to perspiration
5. Color fastness to sublimation
6. Color fastness to water
7. Color fastness to sea water
8. Color fastness to hot pressing
9. Color fastness to chlorinated water
In this article I have discussed above 5 fastness properties. They are given below.

Color fastness to rubbing:

This test exhibits the amount of color that is transferred from the dyed sample onto the white fabric
under specific conditions of rubbing. It is performed by using crock meter equipment, which can be
operated manually or motorized. There are two main types of test methods that are used to determine
the effect of rubbing, one is BS EN ISO-105-X12, while the second is the AATCC crock meter method, test
method 8. With the BS EN ISO-105-X12 test method, dyed fabric dimensions should not be less than 50
mm . 140 mm. However, with the AATCC-8 specimen, dimensions should be at least 50 mm . 130 mm.

The AATCC also developed another method, the rotary vertical crock meter AATCC-116, which is used
for smaller samples as well as for printing fabrics. A dyed fabric sample is locked onto the base of the
crock meter, while white bleached fabric, whose dimensions are 5 cm . 5 cm, is mounted onto the finger
and rubbed against the dyed fabric. The finger is rubbed against the dyed fabric at the speed of one turn
per second (10 . 10 s). Then the white finger cloth is removed and evaluated by using the gray scale
shown in Figure-1.

A rating is given on a scale of 1–5. The procedure for wet rubbing fastness is exactly similar to that of the
dry one, apart from the fact that the finger cloth is wet prior to rubbing. It is very important to keep the
pick-up of the fabric at 65%, otherwise significant variations can be reported. This test method is equally
good at determining the rubbing rating for a range of solely dyed fabrics as well as for after-treated dyed
fabrics.
Color fastness to washing:
This method is used for assessing the resistance of the color of the dyed fabric to all kinds of wash in
water with soap and detergent. There are numerous methods and submethods for assessing dyed fabric
fastness to washing as washing conditions vary from country to country as well as from consumer to
consumer. Therefore, various test methods have been developed. Two major ones that are adopted by
many international organizations are discussed below. The first is the BS EN ISO 105-C06:2010, Textiles-
Tests for Color Fastness (Part C06: Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering). The second
is the AATCC Test Method 61-2003, Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated.
There are various methods to assess the color fastness to washing as per ISO methods ranging from C01
to C06. A different soap percentage, temperature, time of washing, and level of washing are used in
methods from C01 to C06 as shown in Table-2.

Table-2: Conditions of Color Fastness for C01–C06

Test Liquor Temperature Time (min) Reproduces Action of

(°C)

C01 0.5% soap 40 30 Hand washing

C02 0.5% soap 50 45 Repeated hand washing

C03 0.5% soap 60 30 Medium cellulosic wash

0.2% soda ash Severe wool wash

C04 0.5% soap 95 30 Severe cellulosic wash

0.2% soda ash

C05 0.5% soap 95 240 Very severe cellulosic

wash
0.2% soda ash

C06 4 g/L reference Various Various Domestic laundering

detergent +
perborate

In BS EN ISO 105-C06:2010, dyed fabric having dimensions of at least 10 cm . 4 cm are sewn together
with standard multi-fiber strip. There are two types of multi-fiber strip containing six types of fibers;
type DW has wool, while type TV is without wool. Loose dyed fibers can also be assessed by
compressing the samples through padding and then sewing it between the multi-fiber strip. To test, the
colored yarns can be converted to knitted fabric, or the above mentioned approach for loose fibers can
also be repeated for yarns as well. The sample is washed in a washing machine at a speed of 40
revolutions per minute using one of the sets of conditions. A washing solution is prepared by dissolving 4
g of detergent per liter of water. The reference detergent may be AATCC 1993, WOB (without optical
brightener) or ECE (European Colorfastness Establishment) detergent with phosphates. Sixteen different
subtests can be adopted as per requirement.

These test methods have a different liquor volume, washing temperature,chlorine level, perborate level,
quantity of steel balls as well as pH.

Abrasive action on the dyed fabric is achieved by a low liquor level and by using a high number of steel
balls. The gray scale rating for change of color and staining can be given by using the respective gray
scales. A rating can be given on a scale of 1–5. The C06 method is equally effective for all type of dyes
whether synthetic or natural. A similar washing machine is used as in ISO C06; however, the sample size
and washing conditions are different. The sample size is 50 mm . 100 mm for Test No. 1A and 50 mm .
150 mm for Test Nos 2A, 3A, 4A, and 5A.

Color fastness to light:

This test is used to assess color fading when the sample is kept under a specific light source. The test
samples are exposed to light for a certain time (24, 36, 48, 72 h, etc.) or to customer demand, under
certain conditions of light source, temperature, and humidity, and compared with standard samples. A
blue scale is used to determine the color change. This test is quite important for the dyestuff
manufacturer, the dyeing units, and the retailer. Certain products like carpets, curtains, and upholstery
require excellent light fastness due to their end use performance requirement.

The two most commonly used standard test methods are (1) BS EN ISO 105- B02:2014; Textiles, Tests for
Color Fastness: Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test and (2) AATCC Test Method
16. Typically a xenon arch-based light source exhibits similar spectral content to that of daylight and
therefore is much preferred. In addition, an effective filter needs to be used between the lamp and
specimen to control the intensive light. These variables can easily lead to significant changes in the light
fastness rating. Therefore, it is important to mention which conditions have been used to expose the
sample.
The tested samples as well as the standard blue wool reference are kept in a specific light source under
the standard conditions. A certain portion of the samples is partially covered as per the standard and the
remainder is exposed to the specific light source. A comparative subjective rating is given depending on
the equal color change between exposed and nonexposed samples and standard specimens. A rating
will be given on a scale of 1 (lowest) to 8 (highest). Half-a-scale rating such as 3–4 can also be given. The
American and European scales use two different sets of reference standards. The European scale rating
is given from 1 to 8, while for the American it is given from L2 to L9. It is important to note that these
scales are not interchangeable and that the scale on which the rating is based should be mentioned.

Color fastness to perspiration:

This test is used to assess the change in color of the fabric when exposed to perspiration. Tested
samples are dipped in a solution that mainly consists of histidine. The sample is then placed in the
perspirometer equipment, where it is treated with histidine solution; a standard sample is separately
dried. A gray scale can be used to determine the change in color and staining. Two significant test
methods in this area are the AATCC Test Method 15 and the BS EN ISO 105-E04. Two major types of
perspiration are based on the solution pH. In an alkaline solution, a pH of 8 is maintained by using NaOH;
other ingredients are 0.5 g of histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate, 5 g of sodium chloride, and
2.5 g of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate per liter. For acidic pH, a pH of 5.5 is maintained; other
ingredients of the recipe are kept the same as above.

The fabric is thoroughly wetted with the desired acidic or basic pH solution, having a liquor ratio of 50:1,
by dipping the sample in the solution for half an hour at ambient temperature. To remove the extra
liquor, the sample is wiped through two glass rods and then placed in between the two plates of the
perspirometer under the recommended pressure of 12.5 kPa. The sample is dried in an oven at 37°C for
4 h. The rating is given as 1–5 by using the gray scale.

Color fastness to sublimation:

The color fastness of a dyed article is not only affected by washing, water, or rubbing but also by heat in
many forms, such as by pressing, dry heat, or heat with moisture. Some dyes are sensitive to heat and
hence can fade/bleed due to the effect of heat. This test is intended to assess resistance of color to the
action of dry heat only and not by pressing. Mostly, there are two methods to evaluate color fastness to
dry heat: ISO 105–P01, Color Fastness to Dry Heat (Excluding Pressing) and AATCC Test Method 117-
2004-Color Fastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing). The methods are applicable to textiles of all kinds
and can be conducted at different temperatures depending upon the stability of fibers, which can be
influenced by chemicals used during dyeing, printing, chemical processing, and by physical factors
involved in color change and staining. Nondyed fabric attached to tested samples are exposed to heat.
The rating is given using the gray scale.

A specimen of the sample under test is treated with dry heat for 30 s under a specified temperature and
pressure. Three temperature options are 150°C ± 2°C, 180°C ± 2°C, and 210°C ± 2°C, and it is important
to mention the temperature at which the sample is exposed as it can significantly alter the results. A
pressure of 4 ± 1 kPa is applied to the sample during testing. The treated specimens are conditioned and
evaluated using the gray scale for color change and staining on adjacent fabric.

References:
1. Advanced Textile Testing Techniques Edited by Sheraz Ahmad, Abher Rasheed, Ali Afzal, and
Faheem Ahmad
2. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/12/what-is-color-fastness-classification.html
3. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/11/different-color-fastness-tests.html

Classification of Defects
Minor defects
A defect is defined as minor defects that is not likely to reduce the usability of the
product, but nevertheless may negatively influence the sale.
The minor defects can be untrimmed thread-ends, slight dirt in a non-noticeable
zone which can be removed etc.
Major Defects
A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished products, would cause the item to be
a second. A “second” is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the
salability or serviceability of the item.