Quality Assurance Manual (Products)
Volume 2.1 Work Wear (WWS) AQL
AQL Defect List for Finished Garments:
Product Category Work Wear (WWS)
CE classified garments are not included.
Three types of defect
Critical Defect - A defect that is likely to result in a hazardous or unsafe condition for an individual or anyone around
him using the product or that contravenes mandatory regulations.
Tolerance limits for defects (size, repeatability, quality, significance) will be defined later.
The appearance of a critical defect stops the production.
Major Defect A defect that is likely to result in failure; reducing the usability of the product and obvious appearance
defects affecting the sale ability or shorten the life cycle of the product.
Tolerance limits of defects (size, repeatability, quality, significance) will be defined later.
4 Major defects -> 1 critical defect -> stop the production.
Minor Defect A defect that does not reduce the usability of the product but is nevertheless a workmanship defect
beyond the defined specifications or construction requirements.
Tolerance limits for defect (size, repeatability, quality, significance) will be defined later.
4 Minor defects -> 1 Major Defect.
Appearance Zones of the garment - The defects listed below are defects rated by two areas of the garment, Zone A
and Zone B.
ZONE A = areas of the garment that will draw attention: front, center of back, upper side of sleeve, upper side of
collar.
ZONE B = areas of the garment that will not draw attention: sides under arm/sleeve, under sleeve, under collar, inner
legs, inner collar and lining. To be defined more in detail later.
APPEARANCE ZONE A
Defect Description
Critical
Major
Minor
Style
Style not matching Approval sample, Tech Pack or order
Material Defects - Woven Garments
Weaving Faults - (broken yarn)
Weaving Faults (missed yarn)
Weaving Faults (rough yarn)
Weaving Faults (pills)
Weaving Faults (color stripes)
Weaving Faults (thick place)
Weaving Faults (thin place)
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Weaving Faults (thick bar)
Weaving Faults (thin bar)
Holes (any size of hole)
Fabric torn
Permanent crease lines in fabric
Permanent fold lines in fabric
Material Defects - Knit Garments
Knitting Faults (broken yarn)
Knitting Faults (uneven knitting yarn)
Knitting Faults (rough yarn)
Knitting Faults (slub)
Knitting Faults (pills)
Knitting Faults (dye bars)
Knitting Faults (stripes)
Knitting Faults (run stitches)
Knitting Faults (needle line)
Knitting Faults (laddering)
Knitting Faults (drop stitches)
Knitting Faults (loose stitches)
Holes (any size of holes)
Fabric torn
Permanent crease lines in fabric
Permanent fold lines in fabric
Cleanliness
Stain
Oil spots
Oil stain
Water spots
Water stain
Rust stain
Pen mark
Pencil mark
Chalk mark
Glue stain
Glue mark
Untrimmed thread ends
Loose thread
Dust fibers attached on fabric surface
Loose fibers attached on fabric surface
Appearance
Color shade variation
Color off tone
Glaze
Poor ironing
Crease mark
Wrinkle mark
Fold mark
Unmatched checks
Unmatched stripes
Sewn in wrong fabric direction
Sewn in wrong fabric side
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Washing mark
Uneven washing effect
Burned, scorched
Over pressed (seam impressions)
Stretched shape due to pressing
Distorted shape due to pressing
Bubbles due to improper fusing
Stitching Defects
Broken stitches
Skipped stitches
Run-off stitching
Uneven stitching
Irregular stitching
Wavy stitching
Insecure back stitching
Loose stitch tension
Uneven stitch tension
Uneven stitch density
Missed stitching
Missed bar tack
Unmatched join stitching
Needle chewing (cutting and holes)
Drill holes or markings exposed
Seaming Defects
Open seam, missing stitch
Seam slippage
Puckered seam
Pleated seam
Folded seam
Twisted seam
Seams folded opposite to specified direction
Unaligned seam
Unmatched seam
Seam not fully opened before top stitching
Insufficient seam allowances
Uneven pleats length
Uneven darts width
Misplaced or missed bar tacks
Uneven seam length
Twisting in turn ups
Collar/Neck
Uneven collar points
Misshaped collar points
Unbalanced collar
Overlapping collar
Bubble in collar fall
Bubble in collar stand
Uneven collar end
Collar shape not as approved
Seam allowances of the body are visible next to collar seam
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Placket, Fly, Buttoning
Uneven placket width
Incorrect placket width
Uneven placket length
Visible under placket
Twisted, slanted, curved or pleated placket
Zipper sewn curved or with wrong ease
Buttoning (press buttons or Velcro closure) not aligned
Press buttons attached without support fabric or double layer
Button & Button Hole
Missed button, swing neck button or button hole
Broken button or swing neck button
Insecure button stitching
Wrong button
Incomplete stitching
Uncut or partly cut button hole
Unaligned button and button hole
Misplaced button and button hole
Button stitch not properly locked
Sleeve & Cuff
Uneven sleeve length
Uneven sleeve placket length
Uneven sleeve placket width
Notches exposed at sleeve slit
Wrong attachment of sleeve lining
Uneven cuff width
Uneven cuff height
Front/Back Yoke/Shoulder
Excess gathering at yoke seam
Unmatched seams at armhole
Improper gathering at sleeve cap
Pocket & Pocket Flap
Wrong pocket, closure, top stitching or seam allowances
Unaligned front pockets (hi-low pocket)
Slanted pocket
Excess tightness or fullness of pocket
Pocket cloth not smooth when bar tacking
Twisted pocket cloth
Poorly shaped pocket
Poorly shaped pocket corner
Misplaced pocket position
Incorrect pocket position
Exposing pocket corner
Incorrect position of pocket flap
Hem
Uneven hem
Twisted hem
Wavy hem
Torn at ribbing
Holes at ribbing
Little recovery or no elasticity at ribbing
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Lining
Lining too short or too long
Puckering at lining seam
Twisted lining
Waistband & Belt Loops, Hangering band
Uneven waistband (Hi-low waistband)
Poor waistband finishing
Waistband stitching broken when stretched
Little recovery or no elasticity at waistband
Missing button or bar tack in adjustable waistband
Missed belt loop
Uneven belt loop
Wrong or improper position of belt loop
Missing hangering band inside waist
Fly
Uneven fly width
Curved fly edge
Zipper exposed when fly is closed
Construction instructions or pattern markings not followed
Leg
Twisted leg
Uneven leg
Side seam turned wrongly
Irregular hem width
Labels, Customized labels & Embroideries
Missed Lindstrm seam label or hanger loop
Missed customized logo label or embroidery
Missed marking label
Wrong label, hanger loop or embroidery
Missing size and product number label (knitwear)
Wrong marking label
Wrong or missing Purchase Order Label
Missing CE-Label (CE Garments)
Missing pictograms (CE Garments)
Missing care instruction (CE Garments)
Missing user instruction booklet (CE Garments)
Visual label quality:
Label insecurely stitched (embroidered label)
Label folded by stitching (embroidered label)
Wrong back ground material (embroidered label)
Wrong fusible material (embroidered label)
Slippage in label (over lock is mismatching)
Incorrect embroidery stitch density (embroidery or embroidered logo label)
Label not according to specification (wrong color, size or design)
Label position is not according to Tech Pack
Attaching seam labels and hanger loops: label is attached poorly
Attaching customized logo label:
Stich distance too near the edge (fraying)
Label sewn inverted (label up-side-down) or reversed (label up-side-down)
Wrong size label
Printing Defects in Customized logos or print images
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Missed printing
Misplaced printing
Printing faults (printing stain or cracking print result)
Printing faults (off printing, white print color translucent)
Color off shade or not as specified
Wrong printing
Transponder
Missed transponder
Transponder placed wrong
Labels and Hangtags - non rental garments
Missed label or hangtag
Wrong label or hangtag
Care label no label
Care label label inaccessible and no details elsewhere
Care label letter height under 1.5mm
Care label only symbols used
Care label not legible
Care label does not comply with legal specification
Country of Origin no label
Country of Origin label inaccessible and no
details elsewhere
Country of Origin letter height under 1.5mm
Country of Origin does not comply with legal specification
Fibre Composition no label
Fibre Composition label inaccessible and no
details elsewhere
Fibre Composition letter height under 1.5mm
Fibre Composition does not comply with legal specification
Accessories
Wrong accessories
Damaged accessories
Scratches
Poor plating
Sharp points
Sharp edges
Rust
Color discharged
Malfunction of zipper
Zipper slider not running smoothly
Missed zipper teeth
Missed zipper puller
Wavy zipper
Poor setting of zipper
Zipper tape too close to fly seam affecting zipper function
Detached ring, socket, stud or post
Press button too tight or loose to close or open
Detached swing neck button or rivet
Fabric torn around press buttons or swing neck buttons
Press buttons sewn upon zipper tape
Missed Velcro tapes
Misplaced Velcro tapes
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Reflective bands sewn too close or far away from the edge
Missed shoulder pads
Misplaced shoulder pads
Body
Excess gathering at any seam
Unmatched seams at armhole
Improper gatherings at sleeve cap
Deformed shape
Twisted sleeve
Twisted body
Measurement
Outside tolerance (tolerance is +/- half of next size)
Miscellaneous Defects
Odor
Mildew
Wet item
Damp item
Visible or disturbing mending places
Unwanted objects in garment, like needle or piece of metal
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Please note the above list is not all inclusive and is to be used as a guide only.
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