Fabric Inspection SOP Objective: Toverify fabric received against booking quantity & supplier packing list and to ensure that fabric received conforms to customer's specification. ‘Scope: This SOP covers all procedures of the fabric from the storage to the inspection. Responsible Person: Store Manager/ Quality Manager/Asst. Manager/Executive/ QC. Procedure: The following procedure should be followed in the fabric store, Fabric receive & inventory Visual inspection In-house testing, Fabric storage system Rejected fabric storage system. Fabric issue to cutting & leftover return A. Fabric receive & inventory Order sheet & material booking information should be collect from the concerned merchandiser. Receive supplier invoice. Material inspection report of the supplier should be collected. Before unload check container door & lock. Material verified with invoice. Material receives as per booking quantity, and It should be confirmed by counting, wm inven Raw material inventory (quantity/Wweight verification against the challan) must be complete and keep record according to the buyer/style/color/lot/batch within 48 hours after receiving the fabric. there is any problem should be informed to merchandiser & supplier and decision should be taken by discussion. Visual Inspection Inspection must be complete within 72 hours after rece ving fabric. Alter receiving the fabric, for visual inspection, the approved fabric swatch & necessary documents have to be collected from the merchandiser, through which the quality departments will ensure the quality of the fabric as per customer demand. Invoice copy must be collected prior to inspection. 1 @ scanned with OKEN ScannerFabric visual inspection done following "Four Point System”. This system shall be adapted unless customer specifies otherwise. ‘The inspector should conduct fabric inspection on minimum 10% of total amount and minimum 5 rolls from each lot, iffail then select another 15% for reinspectian, if fail then select 100% for 3” inspection, Inspect more for exceptional cases where the factory considers the risk is higher ¢.g. a mew fabric supplier, new fabric construction or specification ete, oras specified by the buyer. Fabric inspection must be either be alteration between 2 people every 2 hours or a break schedule every 2 hours tomake a proper judgement & toavoid fatigue Inspection area lux value minimum 1000 1ue, inspection conduct lot and color wise. Inspection machine speed should be maximum 35 meter per minutes. ‘Maximum 4 point should be count at one meter/yard, Fabric width should be check at end-middle-end. Running shade should be check meter to meter. Inspection record should be kept minimum one year. Defect count as 4-point inspection chart and fabric accept or reject a5 per below chart or following. customer acceptable range. 4-Point System - Fabrie Penalty Point: Sire of Defect Mark pwd mches White sticker Less than 3 inches up to 6imehes Green Sticker Tess than 6 inches up to 9 inches Yellow sticker Over 9 inches or any kind of hake Red Sticker + Major Fabrie Defect: Thick/thin/mixed/missing/forelgn yarn, slub, knot, crease mark, line mark, needle mark, fabric hole, yarn broken, joint, dirty spot, dying spot, mispick, printing defect, ete. Follow the below discerption for the defect judgement; @ scanned with OKEN ScannerWate tera orfaaa uneverionay woven wo afar [Wovens Warp yam Gfleorty CObr, ase, oF ype Dian he Feat ed The Tad Waren) Pilg join Gtlerort CG, eae, OF type flan He Vento the Hom en ed arn bs wna tabi, that pation fa yarn that a nat boned is oops. [Ronaay weaves purer a va [Yam arpece d yam puled Wom thw niface da bre aaiow aoe, Tien wang ya [Seat wen a Goel spaced andor hele Gumete yams wien compared le he aveape communion @ Be rere [End wen soak o bal Gummiewed bya mob Gfiewicen lense Cola) Unie a aSanG HOS A moeithe and patemed unemenness of sepmarance mn the course OF wasn drecion 9 fibre Woven Wik panna ba Wa ae avons ths WN Dw BT Foes Couns ten an axe acions the with ofthe tbe (Woven Fanny yarns ww ha Spiavets Toa walpenae Hex: Coumes we: square othe wales [area damaged by woul @ WosaTe. esaRape oy reer [et by emovaled Wb o ent peace @ jam Mahan been woven Rios HON Rape Ran nara caer wap OE reaver Tabies, ome oy More PELs GlaigeT Gernot Than thw normal lrg yar Be Taba [Saat decckraion on witace da libre Canbe camel by dyeg loreapn Mae (SR, al maa [Bescotsatan tam penotiaes te uavace a Tabac The undeared pel O Cab by a LBTE whan W]e H Walay, Gry Ganing SOLA FE laqutt mess that cantar dhyesttts or cokanng matutia not intended tor cobs te tabi. oF) by eect Jsomtact me cer dyed mater fren which cola i wamnatered by tieecng oF sublmaron, Be waa a creaened aaceraten dowla unre Baan Ta Ca ae [Et ahch crows varmiona in thadeduw ether lancated dyery metodo” tally mageraie nega creak couned by uneven dye weorpton | ran betewen creams wap one [Wisk or cease Cased by sown boa plasang Wpanet RipCOM OTe Tanghame ceime neal vohage Ganedty TOKng @ Going a ae wipe [Vabeireat laine comed by Toning inpanied Iabre. colon or patiams nd coreily pautened [h panied Tabac Cokes, fallow, of Rh, wii ESA OF paRy REED [Cuts or braais wee cage men Only Eiceas apa ond EK wee mem WYATT @ scanned with OKEN Scanner[frit ear apace came by aang Wa TWH iv eormn Taba a va ere Tha wah Tange aSeaTNg He Parr rw Wye Ta lbeks (Compare tang bar) linwoven tabs = veal ode@ agro the aah whet conan @ Freed nitoor dl peaa oF oF Jappearance sun mermat (Compive ity band) [aerate than norm deter wD an [Expect Ya Tube ade Of Wakaal proton Weet saGh me Wool OB Cound by MEGS WhaLe Livae GaMaGE sores by produary an aune and digesting kalaen of nagutalproten tbe Jintanre: an mmparecton wharw one or taare yarns we suitcmiiy Gaiajed to create an wparare vey ane [Seam don hom ainng he raiapecmed by a Raking Seven [Wiener Space wi wep Grecian ci a broken parm |Wovent Space n tig Gvection duwio broken yarn Pr oren TSS, wpe na PrOPORY HheTinced wan Goutes 8 DOM fhe wware pallerh [Snatwes a tune wpicad milo Bava! Gummalai yams wien caveaed ise ae/ape Gonaaan a hw | eee. Kaveatand or tee hunny mngiveae [A mnor and mega cant. Acceptance Criteria: Ineividual rll points (Penalty Pein per 100 square yards) = Total peraty points 98 5 109 callable wicn(nastowest)ininch xyatds inspected oR Individual roll paints (Penalty Points per 100 square meters) = Totalgenaty pointes 10999 citable widthinasrowest) intcm x meters inspected Upon the campletion of the inspection, the total pmaty paints are calculated per roll/piece and for the entire shipment. Average points (Average number of paints pet 100 square yards) = Totalperaty points summpyx 360100 cuitable wdihiaverage) inch x yards inspected summary OR Avorage points (Average numbor of paints per 100 square meters) = Total penatty points summary « 10000 exrabie widthjaverage) inem x meters rapectad summary: The narrowest eutable width és the smallest measurement among 3 measuring euttable wieth for each rel ‘The average cuttable width is the aritenetic average cuttable width of al the mspected rols, 4 @ scanned with OKEN ScannerFor knitted tntries, there's only rll weight available forthe inspection, the roll length counter fs not avaiable or the tongth ‘counting & rot rekable because ol the fexibibly o! knitted labeies, mapectors ean lollaw the following way to calculate the rail engi © Fabric length (meter) = Fabric weight x 1000 Fabric GSM x Fabric width x 0.0254 Or * Fabric length (meter) = Fabric weight x 1000 x 39.37 Fabric GSM x Fabric width ‘© Weight (in gram) = Fabric length (in meter) X fabric width (in meter) X Fabric GSM + Converting to yards multiplying by 1.09362. (1 meter = 1.09361 yards) If fabric penalty point gets out of acceptable range, then inspection result should be failed. Fail result share with relevant merchandiser & supplier. Based on fail result supplier given new fabric by returning reject fabric or mew Issue/ they given offer for join inspection for justification. Rejected fabrics rolls should be return to supplier or kept innon-confirming areas with inspection report and invoice. C. In-house testing Testing should be completed within 72 hours after receiving fabric: Collect supplier inspection report at the time of fabricreceive. Testing should be done according to lot/batch. Every test fall will be considered as a critical defect and in that case the acceptance is zero, Incase of testing failure, informed to the concerned merchandising department, supplier & taken necessary steps, Following tests are included in the in-house testing: Color evaluation & shade control ‘Skewing check Bowing check Spirality check Shrinkage check GSM check Moisture check Color evaluation & shade control: Incoming fabric color & shade should be assessed in following steps Color & shade should be checked 100%. Checking fabrie color & shade with approved lab-dip, I there is more than one dye-tot, color & shade continuity should be checked between dye-lots, Check color & shade continuity between rolls in a dye-tot. Check color & shade continuity withina roll end, middle, and far end, plus side, middle and other side. 5 @ scanned with OKEN ScannerCheek color & shade continuity within a roll by making 9-point mock-up. 9 point mock-up should be check lot wise. If dye- lot have more than 2 rolls then mock-up should be making 03 pieces, otherwise make roll wise. Color & shade continuity cards should be maintained by collecting a piece of fabric from each fabric roll of al dyer. ‘These cards should be assessed under an approved light box and approval. AY no specification on light sources to be used from customer, then use TL-84 as primary light souree & O65 as secondary Light Source. Light box should be used to assess color & shade continuity. Ina light box, the following procedure must be followed: Irvelevant samples must be cleaned from the calzinet surface. The observers should have 20 seconds to adapt the illumination after entering the light sax reom or change light sources from one to another. The standard and sample must be aligned next toeach other toward the same direction. The standard and sample must be folded intoat feast 2 layers. ‘The standard and sample should be placed on a 45-degree plat for a review. The observer should evaluate the color shading in Value, Chroma, and Hue. Note: |. Compare the color against the approved color swatch, Make sure the direction of fabric (which can be judged by warp, pile, etc.) & the same. Standard light box, with a standard lamp, a mid:gray background, and a tamp with a time record. industrial standard sources include: D65, CWF & TLB4, UV s auxiliary to detect fluorescence. ght boxes must be kept In a good condition (Dark room) andthe light tubes must replace before it's time limit (year / Maximum 2000 hour), ‘Metamerism Test: ‘Most of the customer having 02 light sources (1) primary (2) secondary, evaluator must use both light one after one inthe same manner, if there is any discrepancy having or not then he/she mark on his inspection record, metamerism check found acceptable or unacceptable, one unacceptable result occur he/she must notice it to head of quality as well 3s businass team for customer notification & approval. ght Sources: ‘Most common standard light sources (illuminant), Mluminant A - CIE standard illuminant A is intended to represent typical, domestic, tungsten-ftament lighting, Its relative spectral power distribution is that of a Planckian radiator at a temperature of approximately 2856 K CIE ‘standard illuminant A should be used in all applications of colorimatry involving the use of incandescent lighting Unless there are specilic reasons for using a different illuminant (B65 (6500K) - Aight bluish colored light source used in color matching applications of paints, plastics, textiles, raw inks, and other manufactured products. It is derived fram the average of measurements made of light coming in from a north facing window in the northern hemisphere on an overcast day at various times daily or annually, @ scanned with OKEN ScannerCoal White Fluorescent (CWF) - A wide band single phosphor fluorescent source commonly used in commercial lighting applications in North America. It Is characterized by emitting high amounts of green energy, witha colour temperature of approximately 4 100K, TLS - A narrow band tri-phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial lighting applications outside North America. It i characterized by emitting high amounts of green energy, with a colour temperature of approximately 4100K. Ultralume 30 (U3 oF 30U) - A narrow band tri:phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial ighting applications in North America where energy savings is required. It is characterized by emitting high amounts of yellowish red energy witha color temperature of approximately 300K. Ultra Violet - Light energy not normally visible to the human eye, but which is present in natural daylight. UV energy can excite certain substances (dyes/pigments/chernicals) within a sample causing thern toemit light in the visible spectrum, usually in the blue region. These substances are used In various products to “brighten” colors, particularly Whites, Ils necessary to include correct amounts of UV energy in a colar matching system toallow for optimum simulations of the natural daylight. Note: L All person in quality department is tested for Color Blindness. Those whoare failing color blindness will be rejected. Color blindness test done every one year, 2, Respective QA person of fabric inspection, shade band, trims inspection, final QA, finishing & packing section must be tested color checking ability, il, Skewing check: ‘skewing, test done for woven & stripe fabric. The fabric inspector shall identify the amount of skewing in fabric. The fabric Inspector wha needs to determine the amount of skewing in the fabric shall perform the following tasks. Tear 70cm from one end of the roll (2%). ‘Two ends of fabric should be folded together. Ma tornend is completely aligned together, fabric shows no skewing problem, Otherwise, it indicates certain amount of skewing on the fabric. Acceptable range ts <3%. Customer/supplier shall be immediately informed if the amount of skewing exceeds 3% or as per buyer standard. Fabre returns to supplier/quarantine innon-confirming area & in-house new fabric. Formula to determine the amount of skewing (%) = Didtance of skewing (em) X 100 ‘Width (em) ‘As per the below image, skewing of the sam ple fabric is 4%(2*100/0). @ scanned with OKEN Scannerll. Bowing check: The fabric inspector shall identify the amount of bowing in fabric and its location whether at center or at sides, The fabric Inspector who needs to determine the amount of bowing inthe fabric shall perform the following tasks. Tear 70cm from one end of the roll (2%). Align the torn edge across a pre-drawn straight line ona table. Check for alignment and note down any distortion along the torn edge against the pre-drawn line. Wa tor edge is completely aligned with the pre-drawn line, fabric shows no bowing problem. Otherwise, it indicates certain amount of bowing on the fabric. Acceptable range is <3%. Customer/supplier shall be immediately informed if the amount of bowing exceeds 3% or a per buyer standard, Fabric returns to-supplier/quarantine in nan-confirming area & in-house new fabric, Formula to determine the amount of bowing (%) = Distance of bowing (cm) X 100 Width (em) As per the below image, bowing of the sample fabric is 4% (2*100/50), IV. Spirality chec! The fabric inspector shall identify the amount of spirality in fabric. The fabric Inspector who needs to determine the amount of spiralty inthe fabric shall perform the following tasks. Spirality should be check on 10% of the fabric. Follow the washing standard as required. Acceptable range is <3%. Customer/supplier shall be immediately informed if the amount of spirality exceeds 396 or as per buyer standard, Fabric returns to supplier/quarantine in non confirming area & in-house new fabric, Cuta fabric specimen in rectangle shape of 20° X 10° dimension. 20 inch in weft direction and 10 inchin warp or wale direction. Fold the fabric and join two ends by over edge stitch. tt will look like a cylinder. Mark 2 square (8” X 8") with fabric marker on one side of the folded and stitched fabric. Wash the specimen in washing machine and tumble dry. Now put the bag ona flat table with its natural fall. Don’t stretch. @ scanned with OKEN ScannerNow check and measure displacement of perpendicular line. Suppose displacement is 0.5 inch. Use the above formula to calculate spirality of the fabric. Formula to determine the amount of spirality (%), =lorce « ‘AS per the below image, spirality of the sample fabric is 6.25% (100°C°C/AC' = 100°0.5/8). Shrinkage Chec! 10% of Rals selected from each lot for shrinkage test. ‘Cut 55 cm Jength & width from fabrics, then stitch on the edge. Fabric at four (4) equal points (e.g,,50 centimeters) should be marking. “Measure the marked area width wise and length wise to determine wash shrinkage accordingly. Follow the washing standard as required. For knit fabric shrinkage acceptable range is 5%, for woven fabric acceptable range is 3% & for ribfabric acceptable range ts 8%. I shrinkage test fail fabric return to s upplier/q uaranting in non-confirmi ng ares & in-house new fabric. Formula to determine the amount of shrinkage (%) fi ri nts Af mi jefore wash measurement ‘As per the below image, shrinkage of the sample fabric is 2% (50 49°100/50) at lengthand 19% (S0~49°200/50} at width, Lox w-49.5 After wash Vi. GSM check: © The GSM testing methods are used to measure the material mass per square meter. GSM comes from “Gram per Square Meter". @ scanned with OKEN ScannerWe maintain 100% GSM test. if GSM exceed +/-5% or buyer standard then result should be fail & immediately informed to supplier. If fabric GSM test fail fabric return to supplier/quarantine in non-confirming area & in= house new fabric. Vil. Moisture Check: Moisture of fabric should be measured, if moisture content exceeds the allowable limit, then those fabric should be return to supplier for reprocessing. Lot wise minimum 3 rolls should be check, D. Fabric storage system ‘After inventory complete material keep into quarantine zone for in-house inspection & testing. Alter inspection complete material keep into allocated accept & reject area. Reject material keep in separate rejection keeping lock area with proper information. ‘Maintain location board & register for easy traceability, Use bin card with details information. ‘All raw material should be kept on plastic pallets/rack & minimum 30 an away from wall, Raw material keeps away from sunlight, well covered. Warehouse keep tidy & clean, Ensure material donot absorb moisture. ‘There should be present humidity measure meter. €. Rejected fabric storage system Reject fabric should be kept tocked in designated rejection keeping zone. Inspection failure report should be kept with the fabric. Allthe information must be recorded inthe register. Failure information share with supplier. Reject fabric return to supplier or kept in the specified quarantine zone up to06 month, ‘After 06 months the fabric must be destroyed or take action according to the customer's brand policy responsible person should be employed for rejection zone. F. Fabric issue to cutting & leftover return Fabric issue to cutting as per cutting plan. When fabric issue, issue must be done following FIFO (First In First Out) system. IW fabric left in hand at cutting after style closed. Fabric should be handover to store with details information, Leftover fabrics are kept in lock quarantine area & take management decision following customer brand policy. 10 @ scanned with OKEN Scanner