Tools, Materials a nd

Unit
2

Stitches for Ha nd
Embroidery

Introduction
In the previous Unit, we got acquainted with some
technical terms used in the world of embroidery. We
also learnt a few methods of tracing the design on the
desired material. Now, we will learn about the various
tools used by an hand embroiderer; and how to
identify and appropriately select them for hand
embroidery. Students will also be able to select
suitable fabrics, needles, threads, frame, thimble,
scissors, etc. by the end of this unit.
They should also be able to embroider the design
using various stitches such as stem stitch, running
stitch, chain stitch, French knot, bullion stitch, satin
stitch, long and short stitch, etc. So the final output of
the embroiderer in the form of embroidered cut
fabrics, garments or any item would be beautiful and
suitable as per the end use of the product.

Session 1: Tools and Materials

To carry out embroidery, identification, selection and
handling of embroidery tools and materials is important.

(a) Different types of fabric

Fabric is used to make garments and home furnishing
items. Most fabrics are made from yarns, but the

Unit 2.indd 26 16-07-2018 15:54:20

 basic component of textile fabrics is fibre. These may
be natural fibres, like wool, linen, cotton, silk, etc., or
synthetic fibres, like acrylic, polyester, acetate, etc.,
Fabric is formed using a variety of techniques, like
weaving, knitting, felting and netting (the four basic
ways of constructing fabric). Mostly, natural fibres
(with the exception of silk) are short and are called
staples. The long continuous strands of silk and man-
made fibre are called filaments. These staple and
filament lengths are then twisted into yarns. The
appearance and durability of the yarn is affected by
the degree of twist. Gently twisted yarns are suitable
for napped fabrics which are soft and rather weak.
Tightly twisted yarns are used for smooth fabrics such
as gabardine. In general, the tighter the twist, the
smoother and the stronger would be the yarns.
Note: Nap and pile are often used interchangeably, but
it is advised that both the terms be used differently to
avoid confusion.
Weaving is the most common method of forming
fabric whereby two sets of yarn are worked at right
angles to each other. The knitting method uses
machines to produce a fabric of interlocking loops. In
felting method, moisture, heat and pressure are
applied to short fibres to produce a matted layer. Felts
do not fray but they do tend to tear when they are
damp. In netting, the yarns are held together by knots
wherever they intersect. It can be as heavy as the fish
net or as light as lace, depending on the fibre used.
Embroidery is practised on all kinds of pliable
material which can be pierced with a needle and
thread. The quality of embroidery depends not only on
the workmanship, but also the quality of the fabric,
threads, the intricacy of the design, the closeness of
the stitches, and the colour combinations. Almost all
types of fabric can be used for hand embroidery.
However, the commonly used fabrics for hand
embroidery are linen, satin, cotton, silk, crepes,
georgette, chiffon, velvet, terri-cot, polyester, etc.
Counted thread embroidery (in which the fabric
threads are counted by the embroiderer before inserting
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 27

Unit 2.indd 27 16-07-2018 15:54:21

 the needle into the fabric) requires an even weave fabric,
meaning, a fabric that has the same number of threads
vertically as well as horizontally. Such fabrics are
described by the number of threads or blocks per inch,
usually known as the count. This count will determine
the finished size of the design. A wide variety of even
weave fabrics like matty for cross stitch, is available in
the market for counted needlework.
Embroidery will enhance the beauty of the fabric only
when it is done on a suitable fabric using appropriate
design, needle, thread, backing and other materials. The
fabric should be chosen according to the use of the end
product, for example, for garments, medium or
lightweight fabrics are suitable, such as cotton, silk,
georgette, terry-cot, chiffon, satin, organdy, etc. Fabrics
used for home furnishings are heavier than the fabrics
used for garments, such as cambric, glazed cotton, raw
silk, jute, velvet, etc. The stitches of embroideries are
used according to the weight and thickness of the fabric.
Mostly, running stitch, stem or satin stitch, lazy-daisy,
etc., are used on medium-weight fabrics, while
herringbone, chain stitch, jaali work, etc., are used on
lightweight and thin fabrics. Button-hole stitch, blanket
stitch, cross stitch, running stitch (long stitches), etc.,
are mostly used on heavy fabrics. There is no rigid rule
to select the stitches according to the fabric but the hand
embroiderer should select the fabric according to the end
use of the fabric, design and stitches of the embroidery,
construction of the fabric, thickness, crispness, softness,
and weight of the fabric.
Following are the fabrics commonly used for hand
embroidery:

(i) Linen
It is a fabric made from natural f ibres, like from
vegetables or animals and insects like silkworm. It is
relatively soft, smooth, lustrous and is very strong
textured. It is used for shirts, safari suits, kurtas,
kurtis, and children’s wear. It is also used for aprons,
bags, upholstery and many home furnishing items.
28 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 28 16-07-2018 15:54:21

 (ii) Cotton
It is a fabric made from cotton which is obtained from
the cotton plant. It is soft, smooth and absorbent.
Cotton is suitable for garments worn close to the skin
to keep the body cool in summers, since it aids air
circulation. A large variety of kurti, lehenga-choli,
saree, salwar-suit, shirt, kurta-pyjama, jackets, safari
suit, trousers and children’s clothes are made of
cotton, and decorated by hand embroidery. It is also
used for home furnishings like bed sheets, pillow
covers, table cloths, table runners, curtains, etc.
Cotton is suitable for embroidery as it is easy to pull a
needle and thread through it. When the weave is loose,
it is easy to pass the needle with the thread, but when
the weave of the fabric is tighter, it will be difficult or
even painful for the fingers of the embroiderer while
pulling the needle and thread through. The weave of
the medium-to-heavy weight coarsely woven cotton is
a little loose, hence making it easy to pull the needle
and thread through the fabric.

(iii) Crepe
It is a light-to-medium weight fine fabric and is used
for making flowing garments since it drapes very well.
It has crinkled surface due to the high-twist silk yarn
or chemicals. This look can also be given by a special
weave called the crepe weave. Crepe fabric was
originally made using only silk, but nowadays different
kind of fabrics, such as chiffon, cotton, and rayon,
etc., are commonly used to create crepe fabric. Fur,
silk and original leather, blended silk, crepe, linen,
chiffon, etc. are being liked and used in the fashion
industry. Among the contemporary fabrics, crepe is
well-liked by customers and designers. Mostly, crepe
has a creased or grain surface that has very small
folds or ridges. It can be embroidered, embellished
with different designs to create a more ethnic,
traditional look for the end product. Different types of
crepe include Moroccan crepe, wool crepe, plisse
crepe, crepe de Chine and crepe georgette.
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 29

Unit 2.indd 29 16-07-2018 15:54:21

 (iv) Satin
It is a fabric woven in warp-faced stain weave and has a
smooth and shiny surface. Satin is a smooth, delicate
and medium-weight fabric. It falls gently down the
surface it has been draped on enhancing the natural
shape of the surface. It has a lot of shine, which makes it
suitable for use as garments as well as home furnishing.
Because of its gentle shine and draping qualities, satin is
mostly used for evening wear, bridal wear and party
wear. Even though most embroidery stitches can be
easily done on satin, special care needs to be taken while
fixing the frame. Because of its delicate and slippery
nature, it’s very easy to damage the cloth or the
embroidery while putting the frame.

(v) Velvet
It is a medium-weight, mostly silk or synthetic f ilament
yarn fabric with a cotton backing. It has a short, soft,
thick warp pile surface that stands up vertically. There
are various varieties of velvet fabric differing in their
weight. Velvet is a type of woven and tufted fabric. In
velvet, the cut thread fibres are evenly distributed over
the surface, with a short and very dense pile weave
which gives it a unique and lustrous feel. Velvet can be
made from synthetic or natural fibres. Velvet’s nap (the
layer of fibre ends raised from the ground weave of the
fabric) gets damaged when pressure is applied on it. An
embroidery frame can damage its delicate surface, so
velvet is not framed. Embroidery designs with complete
filled areas and a filling stitch work show the best on
velvet. Running stitches and narrow satin columns will
sink into the velvet’s pile, so they should be avoided.
Velvet is used for making evening wear. It is also used for
home furnishing.

(vi) Silk
The strength, lustre and softness of silk makes it the
most attractive textile. Silk fibre is considered to be the
perfect natural substance in all respects for yarn
making. Silk is the longest of all natural fibres and is
very smooth. It is said to be the most lavish, lustrous
30 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 30 16-07-2018 15:54:22

 and rich fabric. Silk is one of the most popular fabrics
for designer party wear because of its rich look. It is
soft and comfortable, hence suitable for draping. It is
also lustrous and luxurious. The embroidery on silk is
mostly done with silk threads.

(vii) Gabardine
It is a twill-weave fabric made of a variety of natural
and synthetic fibres. It is a medium-weight fabric
made of fine yarns. Gabardine is commonly used for
making garments, such as coats, jackets, skirts and
trousers, due to its nature of holding a steady crease.
Even though it is thick and stiffer than materials
described earlier, it is comfortable and soft to wear.

(viii) Georgette
This fabric is a thin, transparent, lightweight fabric and
is mainly made of highly twisted silk yarns. The twisted
yarns are used in both warp and weft directions. Like
silk and satin, this also has a soft feel and drape well.

(ix) Jean
It is a durable cotton fabric. It is made of fine cotton
yarn in twill weave. It is mainly used for making
trousers, skirts, jackets and shirts, etc.
Note: The term jean here refers to the fabric while
popularly ‘jeans’ refer to the trouser-like garment
made of denim fabric.

(x) Organdy
It is a thin, light and transparent cotton fabric in plain
weave with a stiff finish. It is made from good quality
combed spun yarns. The yarn is made from long staple
cotton and is spun with many twists. This, along with
the finishing process, produces its characteristics of
transparency and crispness. Its sheerness and
crispness are the result of an acid finish given to lawn
fabric in gray state. It is used for making saree, kurtis,
tops, and other children’s garments. This fabric is
mostly used for summer and evening wear.
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 31

Unit 2.indd 31 16-07-2018 15:54:22

 (xi) Poplin
It is a fine and tightly woven cotton fabric of plain
weave. It is the fabric with fine cross-ribs created by
finer warp yarns and heavy weft yarns. Poplin is mainly used for
making shirts, kurtis and children’s garments. Many times, it is
used for home furnishing items also.

(xii) Rubia
It is a thin muslin, slightly thicker than the voile fabric. It is always
made of ply yarns in a yarn count of 150 – 200s constructed with
plain-weave. It is used for making blouses, kurtis and other dress
material.

(xiii) Chiffon
It is a lightweight, sheer, shiny, and plain-weave fabric. It is made
from highly twisted yarns. It has good drape and is used for
making evening wear and party wear garments.

(xiv) Cambric
It is a closely woven plain-weave cotton fabric which is finished
with a little gloss on one side. It is a medium-weight
fabric. It is used mainly for making children’s and adult garments.
It is thicker than rubia.

(xv) Voile
It is a sheer, transparent, soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric. It is
made of highly twisted spun yarns. It is used for making children’s
wear, blouses and dupattas, turbans and sarees.

(b) Different types of needle

The most essential tool without which hand embroidery is not
possible is the needle. It has three parts, namely the eye, shaft and
point. Needles are available in different thickness, length, size of
eye, sharpness and shape of point. The number indicates the size of
the needle— the higher the number, the finer would be
the needle. Different brands of needles some time offer different
numbers to the needles. Mostly, embroidery needles are available
in assortment packages. For example, an

32 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 32 16-07-2018 15:54:22

 embroiderer can purchase different types
of needles in packages of assorted sizes
1–5, 3 –9 and 5 –10, etc., to have a variety
of sizes available while embroidering.
The selection of the size of the needle is
done based on the weight or thickness Fig. 2.1(a) Parts of a needle
of the material, the required fineness of
the embroidery and the kind of thread to
be used, e.g., if silk thread is being used
on chiffon or silk-like soft material, a
very fine and high numbered needle would
be required.

(i) Crewel needle

It is the basic embroidery needle most
often used for hand embroidery. They Fig. 2.1(b, c) Types of needle
are sometimes also known as embroidery
needles. Except for its long slender eye, it does not differ
materially from the sewing needle in shape, and it comes
in the same size numbers. For embroidery, crewels should
be used unless some other kind of needle is specified.
The long eye helps inserting and accommodating
embroidery threads easily. The sharp tip of the needle
helps the needle pierce the tightly woven fabrics more
easily. Crewel needles come in different sizes but most
popular sizes to embroider are size 7 and 9.
(ii) Tapestry needle
It is very useful for wools, matty and open weave
fabrics. It enables the embroiderer to avoid the splitting
of threads. This needle’s rounded point allows it to Fig.2.2 Crewel needle
slip between the threads of the materials rather than
through them. Tapestry needle point is blunt and it
has a large eye; it is inserted between the threads of
the fabric without piercing them. These needles are
commonly used in counted thread work such as cross
stitch, pulled and drawn thread work, and lacing on
composite stitches. Tapestry needle has a shorter shaft
than a crewel needle but it has a much longer eye,
which is slightly larger than the shaft. Due to the open
holes in the weave of the fabric, even the blunt tip can
pierce through it easily. Tapestry needles are the most
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 33

Unit 2.indd 33 16-07-2018 15:54:23

 34

Fig. 2.3 Tapestry needles

Fig. 2.4 Milliner needles

 available in the local market in different
appro sizes mainly from 13 to 28, with 13 being
priate the largest and 28 being very f ine.
tool (iii) Milliner needle
for
This is also called a straw needle. The
any
milliner needle has a shorter, almost round
type
eye. It has very long shaft and a sharp tip.
of
The eye and the shaft on a milliner needle
stitch
are the same size, which makes these
that
needles appropriate for working any
involv
wrapped stitches such as bullion knot,
es
French knots, etc. They are also used for pleating and
lacing
creating fancy stitches. In bullion knots and French
for
knots, the shaft and the eye of the needle are of the
surfac
same size, making it easy to pull the milliner needle
e
through the wraps and make the knots on the fabric.
embro
It makes these wrap stitches so easy to work and the
idery.
stitch comes out looking neat.
The
blunt (iv) Chenille needle
tip of
This is a big needle with a long thin eye and a sharp
the
point used for thick threads. This needle is appropriate
needle
for stem stitches, lazy-daisy stitches, straight stitches,
preve
mirror work, etc. It is also useful for tacking couched
nts it
threads to the back of the fabric.
from
snaggi (v) Sharp needle
ng
It is mainly used as a sewing needle and has a small
other
eye. It may also be used for embroidery.
stitch
es on (vi) Between needle
the
It is same as the sharp needle, but shorter.
fabric.
Tapest (vii) Beading needle
ry It is a long, very f ine needle with a tiny eye for small beads.
needle
s are Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 34 16-07-2018 15:54:23

 So far, you have read about the different kinds of
fabrics suitable for different end products and kinds of
needles to be used for the desired style of embroidery.
Let us now read about the kinds of threads that can be
used with different fabrics and suitable for styles of
embroidery.
(c) Different types of thread
Like the selection of fabric, needle and style of design,
it is important to learn about the selection of thread
used for embroidering a particular design. The factors
to keep in mind while selecting a thread are colour,
texture, length, thickness and suitability to the final
effect of the embroidery pattern.
Threads are one of the basic materials needed for
embroidery. The most commonly used threads are
stranded cotton threads. These threads have mostly
six separate strands which can be used together, or
separated and used singly or in groups. These threads,
often referred to as ‘stranded silk’ though they are Fig. 2.5 Embroidery thread
actually mercerised cotton, are lustrous and suitable
for most types of embroidery. The benefit of stranded
cotton thread is that the strands can be separated and
recombined in any number to achieve differing thickness
and effects. Sometimes, different brands offer different
numbers to the thread. The embroiderer can select the
threads according to his/her requirements. Wonderful
effects can be achieved by using different threads, like
pearl cotton, silk threads, metallic thread, fine wool
thread, and viscose rayon thread—the list is endless.

(i) Pearl cotton

This type of thread is very commonly used for
hand embroidery. It is a highly mercerised
and twisted thread. It is a smooth, single
ply embroidery thread with a shiny and
lustrous look. Pearl cotton threads are
available in skein or a ball with differing
thickness, colour and shade. They are
available in different weights. The higher
the number, the finer would be the thread. Fig. 2.6 Pearl cotton
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 35

Unit 2.indd 35 16-07-2018 15:54:24

 (ii) Metallic threads
This category of threads is an innovation in embroidery
work. The use of metallic threads adds shine and
glamour to the embroidery work. These are available in
the market in colours like gold, silver, platinum, copper
and antique or aged versions. Metallic threads are quite
durable and require less care.

Fig. 2.7 Metallic thread Fig. 2.8(a) Satin thread Fig. 2.8(b) Rayon thread

(iii) Satin and rayon threads

It is a term used for synthetic threads which give a
brighter and shimmery look in the embroidery. These
threads have a satin-like shine and are usually
packaged as floss that can be separated in
different ply.

(iv) Overdyed threads

These are shaded threads. These
threads have more than one colour
in a single strand. They can be
hand dyed or mass produced in
cotton or silk embroidery floss.
These threads are available in
different weights. Using these
overdyed threads gives the
embroidery pattern a totally
different look because of changes of
Fig. 2.9 Overdyed threads colour at short intervals.

36 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 36 16-07-2018 15:54:25

 (v) Wool threads
These are used in some special embroidery forms
where a thick woollen look is required in the
embroidery. These threads are available in a variety of
weights and colours. These threads are most
commonly used in counted thread work.

Fig. 2.10 Wool threads Fig. 2.11 Novelty threads

(vi) Novelty threads

These include a wide range of styles, textures and
material. Novelty threads can be fuzzy, metallic
textured, leather, plastic, etc. They are used to give the
embroidery pattern a special look.

(vii) Pure silk sewing thread

Embroidering on fine fabrics such as silk, a silk
sewing thread can be used for fine embroidery
such as faggoting, pin stitch and hem stitch, etc.
Many other types of threads with special
characteristics are available in the market with
different brand names. These threads can be
selected according to the suitability of the fabric,
design, liking of the user, etc.
Now, we are almost set for starting
embroidering. We have even read the about
threads now. Let us see how we can hold all
these material together for a neat outcome. Fig. 2.12 Pure silk sewing threads
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 37

Unit 2.indd 37 16-07-2018 15:54:25

 (d) Embroidery hoop or frame
This tool is required to hold and stretch the fabric to a
desired firmness and tightness while doing embroidery. A
frame is a set of two rings; each ring fits inside each
other, so that the material placed between them is held
firmly and the fabric surface becomes tight and smooth
Fig. 2.13(a) Embroidery to embroider. The most common type of frame for hand
hoop (frame) embroidery is the ring frame. It is always advisable to
use a frame or hoop while doing embroidery to give the
embroidery pattern a beautiful, neat and finished look.
These frames are made of wood, plastic or metal and are
easily available in the market in different sizes. Their size
is measured by diameter, mostly ranging from 7.5–30 cm
(3–12 inches) they are suitable for doing embroidery on
small designs. The hoop usually has a nut and a bolt for
tightening of the fabric between the two rings of the
Fig. 2.13(b) Two rings of
an frame. While stretching the fabric on the frame, it should
embroidery hoop (frame) be kept in mind that unnecessary tightening by the nut
bolt can damage the fabric. When embroidery is to be
repeated on different parts of the fabric, the frame may
be fixed on different parts of the fabric according to the
placement of the embroidery design. When embroidery is
to be done on a large design, an adda (a big adjustable
frame using mostly wooden bars) may be used. Plastic
frame is a good option for embroidery work, because it is
durable and it doesn’t stain the fabric. Many times,
metallic frame stains the fabric because of the rusting.
Wooden frames may draw the yarns of the fabric, hence
damage the fabric or the embroidered pattern.
Sometimes when the surface of the wooden frame is not
smooth, fine wooden strands may be pricked in the
fingers of the embroiderer.

Other materials used for embroidery

Needle threader
It is a small handy tool with a wire loop to thread the
needle. It is very helpful for those who have difficulty
in threading needles.
Hand Embroiderer – Class IX
38
Unit 2.indd 38 16-07-2018 15:54:26
 Fabric glue
This kind of glue is used only for fabrics and does not
damage it. It is used to attach beads, sequins, pearls
or different decorative material on the fabric.

Seam ripper
It is a small tool to open or unsew the stitches in case
Fig. 2.14 Seam ripper
of faulty stitches.

Thimble
It is used to protect the fingers from getting pierced or
discoloured during embroidery. Metal, rubber and
plastic thimbles may be available in the market. The
embroiderer must take care of his/her hands and use
thimble while doing hand embroidery. Thimbles can be
worn in any of the fingers or the thumb of the hand.
Mostly, it is worn in the index or middle finger which
holds the needle. It must be comfortable and should Fig. 2.15 Thimble
be light in weight. It is used to push the needle to the
fabric painlessly without harming the finger.

Ruler
A simple ruler of 6 or 12 inches may be used to
measure the accuracy of embroidery as per the motif
and design whenever it is required. Wooden, plastic
and metallic rulers are available in the market.

Trimming materials
These are used to decorate the embroidered patterns
made on any fabric, sample or garment. They may be
selected according to the embroidery design, type of
fabric, end use of the product or material, liking of the
user, etc. Different variety of trimming materials such
as stones, mirrors, gota patti, beads, dori, etc., are
available in the market. The embroiderer can select
them according to his/her requirement.

Scissors for hand embroidery

Small scissors of a 3–5 inch length, are mostly used by
the hand embroiderer to cut the threads, edges of the
fabric, etc. Mostly, scissors with metallic or plastic
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery
39

Unit 2.indd 39 16-07-2018 15:54:26

 handles are available in the market. The embroiderer can
use it according to his/her comfort or requirement. It is
advisable to use sharp scissors of stainless steel. Handle
the scissors carefully to avoid any accident.

Micro-tip scissors
It is a sharp tip pointed small scissor, mainly used to
cut f ine threads very near to the embroidery pattern.

Pinking shears
These have blades which give a zigzag edge to the
fabric. It is used to cut the fabric to prevent fabric
edges from unravelling.

Embroidery designs
The embroiderer can select the design according to
his/her requirement. Designs may be taken from the
catalogue, Internet, magazines, etc.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Collect samples of different types of fabrics and threads.
Material Required
1. A3 size sheet or practical file
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Samples of fabric and thread
Procedure
1. Search and collect samples of different types of fabric and
thread.
2. Attach the fabric on a sheet or in your practical file.
3. Put the samples of thread in transparent pouches.
4. Attach the pouches on the sheet or in the practical file.
5. Label the name of the fabrics and threads.

Activity 2
Collect samples of different types of trimming used in hand
embroidery.

40 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 40 16-07-2018 15:54:26

 Material Required
1. A3 size sheet or practical file
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Samples of different types of trimming
Procedure
1. Search and collect different types of trimming.
2. Put the samples of trimming in transparent pouches.
3. Attach the pouches on the sheet or in the practical file.
4. Label the names of the trimming.
5. Decorate the sheet or practical file using coloured pens or
pencils.

Activity 3
Make a chart of the tools and raw materials used for the hand
embroidery process.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Pictures of different tools and raw materials used for hand
embroidery
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of different types of tool and raw
material used for hand embroidery.
2. Draw the figure of the tools if a picture is not available.
3. Label the tools and raw materials.
4. Make a chart depicting the tools and material that you
think may be required for the hand embroidery process.
5. Display the chart in the classroom or the laboratory.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks
1. ______________________ is the basic needle most often used
for hand embroidery.
2. Tapestry needle point is _____________________ with large eye.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 41

Unit 2.indd 41 16-07-2018 15:54:27

 3. The stranded embroidery thread has mostly
______________________ strands.

4. A ___________________ is a set of two rings, each ring fits

inside another so as to hold the fabric tightly while doing embroidery.

5. _____________________ is used to protect f ingers while doing hand

embroidery.
6. __________ __________ is a small tool to open or unsew the stitches in
case of faulty stitches.

B. Questions
1. Different fabrics are used for different uses. Explain by giving two
examples.
2. Why are different types of thread used for hand embroidery?
3. Which kind of needle can be used to embroider on silk or crepe fabrics?

4. Write two lines each on —

(a) Thimble
(b) Trimming materials
(c) Scissors

Session 2: Embroidery Stitches

The skill of the hand embroiderer lies in the right
selection of the design, embroidery stitches, threads and
colours which would result in a product of beauty and
grace. The stitches are used to form the outlines and/or
to fill the surface of the embroidery pattern on the fabric.
The basic embroidery stitches used in India and
elsewhere have a similarity. There are different types of
hand embroidery stitches, some very similar, others so
different that all they have in common is that they are
handwork. Often, two or more stitches can be
embroidered in a single design to give an attractive look.
Sometimes, the stitches of hand embroidery are divided
into the following categories: outline and surface work,
knot stitches, edging and hem stitches, flower stitches,
satin stitch, buttonhole and eyelet stitches, cross and
shadow stitches, etc. There are a number of hand
embroidery stitches and their variations. Different
decorative materials can also be used to enrich the
beauty of the embroidered products.
42 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 42 16-07-2018 15:54:27

 In this session, some flat and loop stitches are
considered for the learning of students. These are the
stitches which students should learn in the initial
stages. With time and practice, students can learn
more hand embroidery stitches and their variations.
Students should follow the tips for hand embroidery,
given in Unit III of this book.
General steps to be taken by the embroiderer
The following basic steps need to be followed while
doing any kind of embroidering and can be used for
both flat as well as loop stitches. Once the embroiderer
has prepared herself/himself by following these steps,
s/he may follow the specific steps of a particular style
of embroidery.
(i) The fabric of the traced embroidery design should
be firmly f ixed in the frame. Fix the fabric in such
a way that the design is in the centre of the
embroidery frame or hoop. Gently f ix the fabric
between the two rings of the hoop and tighten
with the screw of the hoop or frame.
(ii) Collect all the appropriate tools and materials
required for doing embroidery work.
(iii) Thread the needle with required strands of the
thread.
(iv) Pull the thread on the upper side of the fabric at
the initial point of the design from the back side
of the fabric. Attach the end of the thread by a
very small knot, or hiding the end with the
stitches on the back side of the fabric.
(v) Make sure your hands are clean and washed so
as not to leave stains on the fabric or the thread.
Hand embroidery stitches
(a) Flat stitches
It is a group or type of simple embroidery stitches in
which stitches are made without looping the thread.
They are also called straight stitches. These stitches are
mostly used to embroider straight or curved outlines but
sometimes used for filling also, depending upon the type
of design. Some of the common flat stitches are
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 43

Unit 2.indd 43 16-07-2018 15:54:27

 running stitch, stem stitch, back stitch, herringbone
stitch, cross stitch, etc.
(i) Running stitch
It is the basic stitch to start learning the embroidery and
also useful for making base for other embroidery
stitches. It is made up of small evenly placed stitches,
used on both straight and curved designs, like petals of
flowers, letters and any other geometrical or curved
design. The size of the stitches will be determined by the
texture or thickness of the fabric—the finer the fabric,
the smaller the stitches, while the coarser the fabric, the
bigger the stitches. The length of stitches is also
determined by the type of design, end use of the
material, liking of the user, etc. While working on this
stitch, care must be taken that all the stitches should
pass through the total thickness of the material, not from
the superficial or upper layer of the material. This stitch
is used in the finishing process of a fabric, any stitched
item or garment, etc. It can be used for outlining, for
spirals, and as the base for other combination stitches.
The needle should be passed through the fabric in such
a way that the upper stitches should be of equal length,
as should the under stitches, but the under stitches
should be half the length of the top stitches.
After following the general steps for embroidering
given above, follow the steps for making a running stitch.
1. Take several very small stitches (length of the
stitches may be as per choice of the embroiderer
and design) onto the point of the needle before
drawing the thread through the fabric.
2. Pass the needle above and below the fabric at
equal distances.

Fig. 2.16(a) Running stitch Fig. 2.16(b) Running stitch — final look

44 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 44 16-07-2018 15:54:28

 3. Take the thread on the backside the fabric to close
the stitch.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ii) Back stitch
It forms the base line for decorative stitches. It is
necessary to keep the line of the back stitch straight
and uniform. It is excellent for finishing the outlines of
the design. In hand embroidery, this stitch is taken
from the backside of the needle and is thus called the ‘
back stitch’. There are no spaces between the back
stitches. The reverse side of this stitch appears like a
stem stitch. In back stitch, the embroidery is done
from right to left. If the stitches overlap one another,
the design becomes stiff and the shape gets spoiled.
Back stitch embroidery looks flat and painted.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a back stitch. Fig. 2.17(a) Back stitch
1. The needle must be moved a step backwards
before a step is taken forward along the stitch line.
2. Bring the needle out at 1. Insert at 2 and remove
at 3; distance between 3-1 and 1-2 should be
equal. Repeat the sequence for the next stitch.
3. Continue in a similar manner and keep the length
of the back stitches consistent.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
Fig. 2.17(b) Back stitch—
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric. final look

(iii) Split stitch

This stitch makes a solid thick outline with an added
texture or effect to it. This stitch is used in outlining as
well as in filling some areas. When it is stitched, the
needle moves ahead by splitting each stitch. The name
of this stitch is derived from the fact that the
embroidery thread is split as each stitch is made. Split
stitch is a variation of stem stitch in which the needle
passes through the thread of the previous stitch,
splitting the previous stitch.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the split stitch.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery

45

Unit 2.indd 45 16-07-2018 15:54:28

 Fig. 2.18(a) and (b) Split stitch

Fig. 2.18(c) Split stitch—

final look

46

Fig. 2.19(a) Stem stitch

(a) (b)
 e a stitch back through the thread, thus
splitting it.
2. Take another small stitch about 1/8 – 1/4 inches
long on the marked line of the design, splitting
the thread again.
3. Continue in this way until the desired number of stitches has
been made.
1. Bri 4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to end the stitch
ng on the backside of the fabric.
the
ne (iv) Stem stitch
edl It is a fine outlining stitch which can be seen as a row
e of oblique even-sized stitches. The needle is first
thr brought to the front side of the fabric, an oblique stitch is made.
ou The needle is then pushed towards the back side of the fabric. On
gh
the back side, the needle moves a short distance before being taken
the
fab out from the front side, beside the previous stitch. To make the
ric, stem stitch, the work should be begun at the end of the line nearest
hol to the embroiderer and pointing the needle towards him/ her,
d progress away to make the stitches. Keep the thread on the same
the side of the needle all the time. If you want a very smooth,
thr unbroken effect, throw a twisted thread in the direction of the twist
ea of the thread, usually to the left. By throwing it to the right, you
d work in opposition to the twist of the thread to get a rougher effect,
do which is sometimes liked by the users. It is also used in
wn combination with other embroidery stitches. This stitch
,
an
d
tak is used for flowers, stems, outlining and
solid line that is required in a design. This is one of
the easiest and most durable embroidery stitches. It is
made with any kind of thread, the size varying with
the effect sought. The finished embroidery will
look like a thin line on the front side, whereas at
the back side it will look like a back stitch. The stem
stitch is used to embroider mostly small designs on
bibs, baby frocks and handkerchiefs. In addition to
that, this stitch is also used to embroider saree borders
and delicate tendrils.

Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 46 16-07-2018 15:54:29

 After following the general steps for
embroidering, follow the steps for making
the stem stitch.
1. Insert at some distance and exit a half
stitch length backwards. (In every case,
the needle must be moved a step
backward before a step is taken forward.)
Fig. 2.19(b) Stem stitch—final look
2. Keep the length of the stitches equal.
3. Till the design is complete, the thread
should be kept either on the left side or on the
right side.
4. Proceed in this way, keeping the stitches even in
length.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(v) Cross stitch
It is formed by two crossing arms. In this, a single
diagonal stitch is taken first in one direction and then in
another to cross the first at right angles. These crosses
are worked in groups to form mostly letters and
numerals, geometrical designs, etc., cross stitches are
worked in rows of even slanted stitches, first from the left
to the right, laying down half the crosses, and back from
the right to the left to complete them. A blunt tapestry
needle is used for this stitch. The most suitable fabric for
a cross stitch is an even weave fabric. Matty, gingham,
casement, khadi, jute and other checked fabrics are
mostly used for cross stitch embroidery. While making a
cross stitch on a matty fabric, the squares of the matty
fabric can be counted easily and the stitches may be
made according to the design on the matty. The cross
stitch is used for embroidering saree borders, dresses,
including that of children, and home furnishing items
such as telephone mats, dining table mats, bed covers,
pillow covers, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a cross stitch:
1. The designs are made using small cross stitches,
such as geometrical, floral, animal, bird, numerals,
etc.
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 47
Unit 2.indd 47 16-07-2018 15:54:29
 2. Bring the needle upwards and take cross stitches
from the left to the right. Repeat the same from the
right to the left to complete the cross.
3. In this way, the whole cross stitch design will be
made. Change the shade of the thread according to
the design and complete it.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Fig. 2.20(a) Cross stitch design Fig. 2.20(b) Cross stitch steps Fig. 2.20(c) Cross stitch sample
on a graph

(vi) Herringbone stitch

This stitch is a variation of cross stitch. In herringbone
stitch, the cross is made at the top and bottom instead of
in the centre as in the cross stitch. On the back of the
fabric, the stitch is visible as parallel rows of running
stitch. The stitches can be worked closed together by
working two rows of stitches over each other so that the
stitches intersect in different style to form a variety of
design of greater or lesser intricacy. Embroidered with a
slight gap between two lines, when worked closely it is
called close herringbone. When the close herringbone
stitch is worked on a semi-transparent fabric, the reverse
is used as the face of the embroidery; it is called shadow
work. To maintain the shape of the design, herringbone
stitches are taken close together. These stitches are well
suited for floral designs and to neaten the edges of
materials. This stitch should have the small stitches
equally spaced alternately at the top and bottom. The

48 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 48 16-07-2018 15:54:30

 herringbone stitch is used mostly to embroider saree
borders, kurtis, blouses, children’s garments, etc. It is
also used to embroider home furnishing items.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the herringbone stitch:
1. To maintain the shape of the design, take a small
stitch in the opposite lines of the design on the
fabric.
2. Take out the needle behind the previous stitch and
slightly in front of the thread. Work from right to
left and left to right.
3. Continue in the similar way to complete the line.
4. When the design is in the double lines, take the
first stitch on the upper line and the next on the
lower line in front of each other. This gives a cross
stitch look. While embroidering floral designs, take
the stitches very close together. This makes the
design clear, prominent and attractive. If
embroidering with two colours, take the stitches
with the some gap in between both the lines. And if
embroidering with single colour, then take the
stitches close together in both the lines.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Fig. 2.21(a) Herringbone stitch Fig. 2.21(b, c, d) Herringbone stitch steps Fig. 2.21(e) Herringbone
stitch—final look

(vii) Couching stitch

In this stitch, single or multiple threads, wires and
decorative materials are laid on the fabric and held in
place by sewing with a thread in diagonal stitches. It is
helpful in creating thick and thin outlines in single and

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery

49

Unit 2.indd 49 16-07-2018 15:54:30

 dual colours. The stitches can
be placed close together or wide
apart. The sewing thread can
either match the laid material or
be different, as per the required
effect. The couching stitch can
be worked on outlines or to fill
the areas by laying the material
side by side, covering the
(a) (b) whole area to be embroidered.
To achieve the raised effect, a

Fig. 2.22(a, b) Couching stitch soft and thick cotton thread is

laid and secured as the foundation. Then, the material
for couching is taken and is couched all through the
motif by the stitches passing through the material. This
stitch is mostly used on dresses and jackets, kurtas
and sherwanis, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a couching stitch:
1. Place one thread along the design outline.
2. Place a stitch with the contrast or same coloured
thread over the first thread.
3. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(viii) Satin stitch
This is made by working parallel or radiating stitches
close together to completely cover the design, from the
front and back side of the fabric. Satin stitch looks
similar on both the sides of the fabric. Narrow and
small-sized floral designs are mainly suitable for this
stitch. To make a neat and clear embroidered pattern
of this stitch, the design is outlined with running
stitches. To give an embossed look to the letters of the
monogram, lining is used beneath the embroidery.
Satin stitch is used to mostly embroider monograms.
It is used on handkerchiefs, bags, pillow covers, sofa
backs, children’s garments, sarees, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a satin stitch:
1. Make an outline of the design with the running
stitch or stem stitch to be embroidered.
50 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX
Unit 2.indd 50 16-07-2018 15:54:31
 2. Bring the needle from below,
upwards, at the beginning of
the design.
3. Insert the needle from above,
downwards, at the other end
of the line of the design.
4. Repeat the same process for
it. Take the stitches close to
one another pulling the thread
gently.
5. Go on embroidering carefully
to avoid puckering. (a) (b)
6. Take care that the thread does Fig. 2.23(a, b) Satin stitch

not overlap at curves.

7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ix) Long and short stitch
As long and short stitches are taken one after another,
therefore, the name of this type of stitch is the ‘long
and short stitch’. The long and short embroidery is
done in floral designs, and in patterns depicting birds
and animals. Two different shades of a colour or
sometimes, even three shades of a colour are selected
for the design. The embroidery is done from the upper
part of the design. In the beginning, an outline is done
with the running stitch with a light coloured thread. In
this stitch, the light shade of a colour is used on the
upper part and a dark shade is used on the lower or
the inner part of the design. This stitch seems similar
on both the sides of a fabric. The fabric is kept tight in
the embroidery frame. This avoids puckering. Long
and short stitches are mostly used for embroidering
logos, children’s garments, photo frames, wall pieces,
sarees, table covers, bed sheets, pillow covers, sofa
backs, handkerchiefs, woollen shawls, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the long and short stitch:
1. Make an outline of the design with a running
stitch. Refer to the steps in (i).
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 51

Unit 2.indd 51 16-07-2018 15:54:31

 2. Make the design by making
one stitch long and the
next one short. Carry this
out using a single coloured
thread.
3. The other shade of the colour
should be used in such a way
so that it intermingles
correctly with the previous
shade of the same colour.
There should be no gaps
remaining between the two
colours of stitches.
Fig. 2.24(b) Long and short
Fig. 2.24(a) Long and
stitch—final look 4. Continue embroidering the
short
stitch design in this way.
5. Take stitches very close to one another so that they
intermingle.
6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(x) Fishbone stitch
This stitch resembles the backbone of a fish, therefore it
is called fishbone stitch. This is a type of filling and flat
stitch, which is suitable for making leaves or feathers.
The vein of the leaf is used as the centre and the stitches
are taken alternately to its left and right. Usually oval
and narrow shaped designs are selected for the fishbone
stitch. Two shades of the same colour are used in the
design to make it more attractive. The fishbone stitch is
mainly used to embroider children’s garments such as
bibs, frocks, yokes, etc. It is also used to embroider
handkerchiefs, home furnishing items, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a fishbone stitch:
1. Begin the work from the upper part of the vein of the
leaf, petal of the flower or according to the design.
2. Bring the needle from the backside to the front
side and make a small stitch.
3. According to the size of the leaf, make a stitch
about 1–2 cm long from the upper part of the vein.
4. Now take one stitch to the right of the vein upward
from below.

Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

52
Unit 2.indd 52 16-07-2018 15:54:32
 5. In the same way, take a stitch to the left of the vein
from the upward to the downward direction.
6. Then bring out the needle from the left side of the
vein upwards.
7. Similarly, insert the needle to the right side of the
vein and continue embroidering.
8. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

(a) (b) (c)

Fig. 2.25(a, b, c) Fishbone stitch

(b) Loop stitches

It is a type of embroidery stitch in which loops are
formed from the embroidery thread. Chain stitch is the
most common type of loop stitch. Some other loop
stitches are buttonhole stitch, blanket stitch, French
knot, bullion stitch, fly stitch, etc.
(i) Chain stitch
It looks like a loop formed by passing the thread over the
point of the needle, as the needle is pushed to the front
side from the back side and securing it by the following
stitch. It is used mostly to embroider straight lines. But
it can be used to embroider floral designs, birds and
animals, etc. In case of floral designs, the chains are
made very close to each other for filling effect. It can also
be used in rows or in spirals. A single thread is more
effective than a number of strands. While embroidering
this stitch, the distance between the two stitches should
be kept equal. To make a broad outline, the needle is

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 53

Unit 2.indd 53 16-07-2018 15:54:33

 passed across in a slanting way with loop thread under
the needle. Bring the thread out at the beginning of the
line, hold the thread down with the left thumb while the
needle is reinserted into the same spot and brought out
again a short distance away. Draw it through, over the
loop of thread under the thumb. The needle always goes
down again into the same hole. The stitches should be
kept even in length. They should never be drawn very
tight; because that destroys the effect of their being
linked in a chain. The chain stitch is used to embroider
adult and children’s garments. It is also a very common
stitch for embroidering home furnishing items, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a chain stitch:
1. Bring the needle from below, upwards.
2. The needle is inserted back into the same hole and
taken out at some distance above it.
3. The working thread is carried under the needle point.

(a) (b)
Fig. 2.26(a, b) Steps for making a chain stitch

Fig. 2.26(c) Steps for making a chain stitch Fig. 2.26(d) Chain stitch—final look
54 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 54 16-07-2018 15:54:33

 4. Now, pull the needle very gently, so the chain loop
is made.
5. Carry out the next stitch the same way, always
inserting the needle into the hole made by the
emerging thread. Continue in this way for the
entire line or the design.
6. Work a chain stitch holding the thread which is
being stitched firmly with the thumb. Adjust the
loose thread and then adjust the chain stitch just
made.
7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ii) Lazy-daisy
This stitch is mostly used to embroider small petals and
leaves. It is a small loop stitch. At the end of the loop,
create a small stitch which looks like a daisy petal. Space
out the next loop or use the stitch to create a daisy by
making five or more petal shapes to create a flower
shape. The lazy-daisy stitch is a variation of the chain
stitch. The size of the thread must be chosen to
correspond with the size of the petal: medium-fine thread
(or two or three strands of six strand thread) for small
petals; very heavy rope thread (or the full number of
strands of six-strand thread) for large petals. Two colour
schemes make it more attractive.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the lazy-daisy stitch:
1. It is worked by taking out the needle from below,
upwards, at the base of the petal or the flower.
2. The needle is inserted back into the same hole and
taken out at some distance above it. Carry the
thread under the needle point.
3. Press the loop thread firmly under the thumb and
pull out the needle gently. Insert the needle just
over a chain loop.
4. To avoid twist in the thread, take out the needle
from the nearest petal.
5. Proper shape and distance should be maintained
while embroidering small petals of a flower or leaves.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 55

Unit 2.indd 55 16-07-2018 15:54:33

 (a) (b) (c)
Fig. 2.27(a, b, c) Lazy-daisy stitch

6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to

end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(iii) Blanket stitch
It is similar to the buttonhole stitch and is mainly
used to finish the blanket’s edges. It is one of the
simplest ways of decorating or holding a garment’s
hem or edge. This stitch can be worked in straight or
diagonal lines. Variations of blanket stitch can
produce some attractive effects.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a blanket stitch:
1. Slant the needle to the left for the first stitch and
then insert it in the same place for the second, but
slant it to the right.
2. Two rows of blanket stitch, one straight and one
slanting are worked to get a coloured binding on
the edge of the fabric.

Fig. 2.28(c) Blanket stitch — final look

(a) (b)
Fig. 2.28(a, b) Making a blanket stitch Fig. 2.28(d) Blanket stitch variation

56 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 56 16-07-2018 15:54:34

 3. The straight stitches are only half the width of the
binding.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(iv) Buttonhole stitch
This stitch is used to finish buttonholes; thus, the name
‘buttonhole stitch’. This stitch is to create an outline,
finish the edges or attach appliqués. It is also used for
attaching mirrors in embroidery patterns. Though the
buttonhole stitch can be used in any type of design, it is
mostly used for doing floral designs. These stitches are
placed very close together to form a firm edge. At times,
this stitch is used in the centre of a motif. The needle
enters the same hole in the centre each time, making a
hole in the centre while the wheel around it is filled
completely. The buttonhole stitch is used for outlining
and attaching mirrors in embroidery, for example, most
of the mirror work in Gujarat and Rajasthan uses this
stitch. It is used to make the corners of table covers, bed
sheets, sofa covers, chair covers, saree borders, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the buttonhole stitch:
1. Bring the needle out from below upwards, on the
design line.
2. Based on the width of the stitch, insert the needle
at one edge and take out from the other.
3. Before pulling the needle through the fabric, carry
the thread under the needle point.
4. Embroider carefully to keep the width of the stitch
even and work all the stitches very close together
to keep the continuity.

(a) (b) Fig. 2.29(c) Buttonhole

Fig. 2.29(a, b) Buttonhole stitch stitch—final look
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 57

Unit 2.indd 57 16-07-2018 15:54:35

 5. In case of groups in the buttonhole stitch, even
space should be maintained after each group.
6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(v) Feather stitch
It is used differently in double line and floral designs.
In the double line designs, the stitches are taken with
some gaps in between. In the floral designs, the
stitches are taken close to each other as well as small
in size. In this stitch, each loop is formed first to the
right hand side and then on the left hand side of the
embroiderer. All stitches should follow the same
direction and should be equally spaced. This stitch is
mainly used in embroidering handkerchiefs, bibs,
saree borders, neck and sleeve borders, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a feather stitch:
1. The needle is brought from the backside to the
front side on the line of the design.
2. Work stitches from the top to the bottom.

(a) (b) Fig. 2.30(c) Feather stitch—

Fig. 2.30(a, b) Making the feather stitch final look

3. A feather-like look comes from their being open,

looped stitches taken alternatively to the right and
the left from a central core.
4. Every time the needle is pulled very gently, press
the stitch under the thumb.
5. Because of the back-and-front movement of the
needle, care should be taken to keep the stitches
even on both sides of the central line.
6. It is advisable to draw guidelines lightly for the
central line as well as for the side lines before
Fig. 2.30(d) Feather
stitch starting the work.
sample 7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
58 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 58 16-07-2018 15:54:35

 (vi) Fly stitch
It is also a type of loop stitch. The formed stitch
resembles the wings of a fly, and is therefore known as
fly stitch. Its variation can be made by adjusting the
lengths of the loop. It involves making a single loop
with the thread and then tacking it down. It helps in
forming designs like small plants, birds and grass, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a fly stitch:
1. Bring the thread out from underneath the material,
letting the thread hang in the form of a semicircle.
2. Take out the needle from the opposite side, a little
farther from the first stitch, and take a stitch till it
forms a V-shape by keeping the thread under the
needle.
3. Insert the point of needle below the looped thread,
thus forming the couching stitch required to hold
the loop in place.
4. Continue from step one to complete the design.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(vii) French knot
It is a favourite with embroiderers because of its rounded,
raised look that makes the design look elevated. It is mostly
Fig. 2.31 Fly stitch — final look
used to create the centre of a flower and the eyes in an
embroidered figure. Figures with outlines, birds, animals,
flowers and leaves are selected for the French knot.
Outlines of animals and birds can be made more delicate by
using only one strand of the thread. The method to
embroider the French knot and the bullion stitch is almost
the same. Thus, sometimes they can be used to substitute
each other. French knots are used in garments like bibs,
frocks, skirts, etc. It is also made on handkerchiefs, pillow
covers, bed sheets, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the French knot stitch.
1. Bring out the needle from below upwards, at a
point where the French knot is to be made.
2. Hold the thread tight with the left hand.
3. Wrap the thread around the needle once or twice
(clockwise/anti-clockwise).
4. Gently pull the thread so that the twists are
tightened against the needle.
Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery
59

Unit 2.indd 59 16-07-2018 15:54:36

 5. Carefully insert the needle
near the first point and pull it
through; be sure that the
thread end is still held taut.
6. A continuous line of knots is
made to outline the embroidery.
For floral designs, take the
knots close to one another.
(a) (b) (c) 7. Make a loop and pull the thread
Fig. 2.32(a, b) French knot Fig. 2.32(a) French from the loop to end the stitch
knot — final look
on the backside of the fabric.
(viii) Bullion stitch
It takes its name from its resemblance to the heavy
twisted gold bullion used in fringes, tassles and ornate
embroidery. It is used mainly for embroidering small
roses. It creates a very realistic effect, especially when
two or more shades are used in a rose. The floral design,
when embroidered with shaded thread gives the effect of
a beautiful rose. For making leaves, the thread is twisted
according to the length of the leaf. The bullion stitch
looks beautiful on frocks, saree borders, necks of kurtis,
handkerchiefs. It can be made on home furnishings also.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making bullion stitch:
1. Take out the needle from the backside to the front in
such a way that three fourths of the needle is above the
fabric. Hold the eye of the needle with the left hand.
2. Coil the thread around the needle according to the
size of the petals of the design (clockwise/
anticlockwise).
3. Hold the coiled thread with the left hand so that
the twists are tightened against the needle.
4. Now arrange them on one side of the petal and
insert the needle.
5. Repeat the same process for the other side of the
petal.

(a) (b) (c) Fig. 2.33(d) Bullion

Fig. 2.33(a, b, c) Bullion stitch stitch—final look
60 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 60 16-07-2018 15:54:37

 6. In this way, a complete pattern will be made.
7. For the inner portion of the flower, five twists are
sufficient and for the outer layer of the flower,
6–12 twists should be made.
8. By following this order, beautiful flowers can be
made through the bullion stitch.
9. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare samples of different types of flat stitches.
Materials Required
1. A3-sized sheet or practical file
2. Tracing paper
3. Carbon paper
4. Fabric sample of size 9” × 9”
5. Ruler
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Embroidery threads of different colours
9. Embroidery needles
10. Hoop
11. Scissors
12. Glue or any adhesive
Procedure
1. Trace the design on the fabric sample using tracing or
carbon paper. Students can also draw the design
freehand on the fabric sample.
2. Fix the fabric sample firmly in the frame.
3. Embroider the design of the sample using loop stitches.
(Follow the instructions to perform flat stitches as given in
the session)
4. Finish the sample edges using hemming or using pinking
shears.
5. Attach the sample on the sheet or in the practical file.
Note: The student should make samples of all flat stitches.
Tip: All bright coloured threads will show better on light
coloured fabric and all light shades of threads will look
prominent on dark coloured fabrics.
Activity 2
Prepare samples of different types of loop stitches.
Materials Required
1. A3-sized sheet or practical file.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 61

Unit 2.indd 61 16-07-2018 15:54:37

 2. Tracing paper
3. Carbon paper
4. Fabric sample of size 9” × 9”
5. Ruler
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Embroidery threads of different colours
9. Embroidery needles
10. Hoop
11. Scissors
12. Glue or any adhesive
Procedure
1. Trace the design on the fabric sample using a tracing or
carbon paper. Students can also draw the design
freehand on the fabric sample.
2. Fix the fabric sample firmly in the frame.
3. Embroider the design of the sample using loop stitches.
(Follow the instructions to perform loop stitches as given
in the session)
4. Finish the sample edges using hemming or using pinking
shears.
5. Attach the sample on the sheet or in the practical file.
Note: The student should make samples of all loop stitches.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the blanks
1. It is necessary to keep the line of the back stitch ____________
and ______________________.
2. Cross stitch is formed by two ______________ ______________.
3. Herringbone stitch is a variation of ____________________
stitch.
4. __________________ stitches resemble the backbone of a f ish.
5. Lazy-daisy stitch is a variation of ____________________ stitch.
6. Blanket stitch is mainly used to f inish __________ __________.

Questions
1. What is the difference between flat stitches and loop stitches.
Write steps to make any one of them.
2. Draw step-wise, the method of making chain stitch.
3. Which cloth is most appropriate to use cross stich? Draw a
pattern on a graph paper to be used for cross stitch.
4. Write short notes on
(a) Herringbone stitch (b) Fishbone stitch

62 Hand Embroiderer – Class IX

Unit 2.indd 62 16-07-2018 15:54:37