Embroidery

-Embroidery is done for making a fabric beautiful with colourful designs with the help of needle and
threads.
-It may be used to embellish almost everything, from the smallest handkerchief to big home furnishing
like even curtains or bedcovers. Different types of garments including that of children, furnishings, such
as bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloth, wall hangings, etc. are embroidered to give a rich look.

-It is an art to express the creativity using different types of techniques, like beadwork, metal thread
work, appliqué work, decorative thread work, cutwork, patchwork, zardozi work, etc. Embroidery is also
known as ‘a painting with needle’.

History of Embroidery
-Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn.
The word embroidery comes from the French word broderie, meaning embellishment. In various forms,
embroidery has existed since the production of fabric. While embroidery is practiced across the world,
its origin stems from China and the Near East. Early embroidery can be traced back to Cro-Magnon days
or 30,000 B.C. Archeological finds from this time period reveals fossilized remains of heavily hand-
stitched and decorated clothing.

The embroidery terminology

• Aari- it is a type of needle with a hook at its tip to do the embroidery.

• Adda- a wooden adjustable frame with four wooden bars used to stretch the fabric for
embroidery.

• Applique- it is a fabric cut-out attached to the surface of a larger piece of fabric.

• Backing - is used to give support to the fabric being embroidered.

• Blanket Stitch- it is an ornamental stitch mainly used to finish an unhemmed blanket or any
thick fabric.

• Chain stitch- it is a very common stitch of hand embroidery. It is made by making loop stitches
and is used mostly to embroider straight lines and big curves.

• Combing- it is the act of smoothening and making uniform the sliver of a yarn.

• Couched- it is a method of embroidering in which a thread laid upon the fabric's surface is
caught down at intervals, by stitches taken with another thread through the material.

• Counted Thread Embroidery - is an embroidery in which the fabric threads are counted by the
embroiderer before inserting the needle into the fabric.

• Design - is used for a motif(s), which is decorated with the different stitches of embroidery.
• Design Catalogue- a collection of different types of designs, which may be used for various types
of embroidery.

• Embroidery- is an art, using thread and needle to adorn fabric/garment.

• Embroidery Machines- are specialized for different types of embroidery. They are manually or
motor operated.

• Even Weave Fabric- is a fabric that has the same number of threads, vertically as well as
horizontally.

• Filling Stitches - long and short satin, close herring bone, fishbone are considered as filling
stitches in embroidery It covers large areas and they generally have a flat look.

• Finishing- this process is performed after embroidery work is completed.

• Frame- is a device which holds the fabric to be embroidered it provides firmness and tightness
to the fabric during the process of embroidery.

• Framing-refers to fixing of a fabric, tightly in an embroidery frame.

• Fusing Paper - is a base which is coated on one side with fabric or other material by the
controlled application of heat and pressure.

• Gapping- is used for the spaces (fabrics) between the stitches in design.

• Gota- is a narrow ribbon or strip, woven with gold or silver thread used for decorating the
fabrics.

• GSM- it is a metric measurement meaning grams per square metre.

• Heavyweight Fabric-is a fabric that is approximately above 350 GSM.

• Hoop- embroidery frames are also called hoops.

• Lacing- is a cord or string for holding or drawing together, as when passed through holes in
opposite edges.

• Lettering- is done for making beautiful letters or expressions of words, it is often called
'keyboard lettering'.

• Lightweight Fabric-is a fabric that is approximately between 30-150 GSM.

• Marking- is done on the instructions sheet to help the embroider initiate embroidery work on
the given design.
Design- a plan or drawing produced to show the look and function or workings of a building, garment, or
other object before it is built or made.

Types of Design

• Natural Design - any design that is inspired from nature, like birds, trees even human figures,
animals, scenery, etc.

• Floral Designs - flowers, leaves, stems, and their combination, come under this group.

• Geometric Designs- these include designs made of geometric shapes. like square, circle and oval,
diamond, triangle, rectangle or any combination of them.

• Abstract Designs - abstraction indicates a departure from the reality in the depiction of imagery
form in art.

• Mythological Designs - these include scenes or designs from mythological epics or mythology.
symbols.
 • Architectural Designs - ancient historic monument designs and any architectural designs
including palaces, buildings etc.

• Tribal Designs - designs depicting typical characters of any tribe are included in this category,
like tribal wall paintings, mandana warli art designs, etc.

• Stylised Designs - includes the modern styles of design like asymmetrical or a combination of
designs or depiction of designs in a different way by stylizing them.

• Nursery Designs - designs mainly for children wear like cartoons, toys, animals, fruits, fairies, etc.
type of design being described.
 Tracing Materials and Tools
• Embroidery Design- is the arrangement of line, form, color, and texture with the purpose of
achieving order and beauty.

• Tracing & Carbon Paper - is a semi-transparent paper you can use to trace an image.

• Pen or Pencil - is a tool mainly used for drawing and tracing a design.

• Iron - is a small appliance used with heat and pressure and done through gliding or sliding
motion.

• Piece of Glass and Lightbox - is a great aid in tracing during the design process or during the
whole embroidery.

• Needle- is a stitch forming device that carries the thread through the fabric.

• Chalk Powder or Indigo - is small sticks or a substance used for writing, drawing or marking
patterns or designs.
• Kerosene Oil - is typically pale yellow or colourless and has an unpleasant characteristic odor.

• Dressmaker Pins or Beaded Pins - are used to hold pattern or pieces of fabric temporarily.

• Stencils of Selected Designs - thin sheet of cardboard, plastic or metal with a pattern or letters
cut out of it.

• Design Transfer Sheet on Paper - is a thin piece of paper coated with wax and pigment.
 Tracing Methods

Method 1: Transferring Design with Heat

A common way to transfer images is with heat using design transfer sheet or paper. A sheet of design,
an iron and a pressing cloth is required for tracing the design. Designs can be traced directly if the design
is printable on a transfer paper or sheet.

Method 2: Transferring Design using Light.

In this method, an embroidery pattern is transferred, by using light. It allows tracing each line of the
design. Both daylight as well as a lightbox can be used.

Method 3: Transferring Design using Carbon Paper

The simplest method of transferring design is by using carbon paper. Carbon papers of different colours
(light and dark) are available in the market. They may be selected according to the colour of the fabric
on which the design is to be traced.
Method 4: Transferring Design with Prick and Pounce

The design is first traced on a tracing sheet and holes are made evenly along the outline of the design
including the intricate lines using a needle. Holes should be made evenly and close to each other, so the
design can be traced clearly and neatly. For tracing the design, the fabric is placed on a hard surface,
with tracing paper.

Method 5: Transferring Design with Stencils

A stencil is a cut-out of a design pattern to help make an identical copy of it on another surface,
accurately. Stencils are extremely useful for repeat designs, mixing and matching for a unique style. It
works on light and medium weight fabrics, like cotton, rayon, linen, silk and many synthetic blends or
mixed fabric
 Different Types of Needles

• Crewel Needle-is the basic embroidery needle most often used for hand embroidery. It has long
slender eye and does not differ from the sewing needle in shape and comes in the same size.
The most popular sizes to embroider are size 7 and 9.

• Tapestry Needle- is very useful for wools, matty and open weave fabrics. It has a shorter shaft
and has a much longer eye which is slightly larger than the shaft. It comes in different sizes
mainly from 13 to 28, 13 being largest and 28 being very fine.

• Milliner Needle-called as a straw needle and has a shorter, almost round eye. It has a very long
shaft and a sharp tip.

• Chenille Needle-a big needle with a long thin eye and a sharp point used for thick. threads.
• Sharp Needle-is mainly used as a sewing needle and has a small eye. It may also be used for
embroidery.

• Between Needle- is same as the sharp needle but shorter.

• Beading Needle-it has a long, very fine - needle with a tiny eye for small beads.
 Different Types of Tools used in Hand Embroidery

Embroidery Scissors

- is small, sharp and pointed, good for fine work.

- use for trimming scallops, clipping threads and cutting large eyelets.

- protect the blade by keeping them in a sheath or cover and get them sharpened occasionally, handle
them carefully to avoid accidents.

Embroidery Hoop

- made of wood, bone, metal or plastic used to make eyelets in the fabric to be embroidered.

- is used to keep the fabric stretched while embroidery stitches are applied on the design.

- it is advisable to place tissue paper over the inner hoop or twist with a thin material to prevent
markings on the fabric.

Ruler

-6 or 12 inches used to measure the accuracy of embroidery as per the notif and design whenever it is
required.

- store rulers carefully, if the edges and ends are damaged, there will be inaccuracies.

Needle Threader

- is a small handy tool with a wire loop to thread the needle.

- is used for easier threading especially by those sewers with poor eyesight.

Seam Ripper

- is a small tool to open or unsew stitches in case of faulty stitches.

-store in a safe place, use the cover to protect its sharp point and keep it clean.

- careful not to catch and rip the fabric.

Gauge

- is typically a metal scale, marked in both inches and centimeters.

- use to measure hems for alterations, intervals in pleats, buttonholes & buttonhole lengths

- take good care and make sure not to bend it.

Tape measure

- is a flexible tool used for taking measurements.

- do not stretch.

Thimble

- is used to protect the fingers from getting pierced or discoloured during embroidery.

- the embroiderer must take care of his/her hands and use thimble.
- find a size that fits your finger comfortably.

Pounce

- is a fine powder used in transferring design by pricking method.

Embroidery Needle

- a short piece of steel with a fine point at one end and a little opening or eye at the other end.

-have a fine tip, not bent and without rust.

-store them in a needle case, rub them with an abrasive material like sandpaper to sharpen or make it
last longer.

Pin Cushion

- tools for placing pins and needles.

- avoid breaking the fabric so the stuffing stays inside.

Sewing Box

- use to keep together the embroidery tools and materials.

Fabric Glue

- is used only for fabrics and does not damage it.

- is used to attach beads, sequins, pearls or different decorative material on the fabric.

Trimming Materials

- these are used to decorate the embroidered patterns made on any fabric, sample or garment.

Pinking Shears

- it gives a zigzag edge to the fabric.

- is used to cut the fabric to prevent fabric edges from unraveling.

- never use other types of materials aside from fabric, as it will cause the blades to turn dull.

Embroidery Designs

- designs may be taken from the catalogue, internet, magazines, etc.

Fabric

- referred to as cloth, are great variety and they differ in material, weight, weave, design, color and
finish.
- all fabrics should be prewashed before using them, the filter that is used in the fabric can cause havoc
if it is not removed by washing.

Thread

- is available in various types, they differ in terms of texture, fiber content, number of strands and
colors.

- is a thin twisted string of fibers used mostly for sewing. - store it properly under controlled conditions.
 Different Types of Thread

• Pearl Cotton - is commonly used for hand embroidery, highly mercerised and twisted thread and
is smooth, single ply embroidery thread with a shiny and lustrous look. It is available in skein or
a ball with differing thickness, colour and shade.

• Metallic Threads - the use of this thread adds shine and glamour to the embroidery work and
are quite durable and require less care.

• Satin and Rayon Threads - is a term used for synthetic threads which give a brighter and
shimmery look in the embroidery. Have a satin - like shine and are usually packaged as floss.

• Overdyed Threads – these threads have more than one colour in a single strand.

• Wool Threads - are used in some special embroidery forms where a thick woollen look is
required in the embroidery.
• Novelty Threads - a fuzzy, metallic textured, leather, plastic and are used to give the embroidery
pattern a special look.

• Pure Silk Sewing Thread - can be used for fine embroidery such as faggoting, pin stitch and hem
stitch.
 The Four Basic Ways of Constructing Fabric

1. Weaving- is the most common method of forming fabric whereby two sets of yarn are worked at right
angles to each other.

2. Knitting- a method that uses machines to produce a fabric of interlocking loops.

3. Felting- moisture, heat and 1 pressure are applied to short fibres to produce a matted layer. Felt do
not fray but they do tend to tear when they are damp.

4. Netting- the yarns are held together by knots wherever they intersect. It can be heavy as the fishnet
or as light as lace, depending on the fabric used.

Commonly Used Fabrics for Hand Embroidery

• Linen - a fabric made from natural fibers and is relatively soft, smooth, lustrous and is very
strong textured.

• Cotton - is obtained from the cotton plant. It is soft, smooth and absorbent. It is suitable for
embroidery as it is easy to pull a needle and thread through it.

• Crepe - it is a light - to medium weight fine fabric and is used for making flowing garments since
it drapes very well.
• Satin - it is a fabric woven in warp -faced stain weave and has a smooth and shiny surface.

• Velvet - is a medium - weight, mostly silk or synthetic filament yarn fabric with a cotton backing.
It has a short, soft, thick warp pile surface that stands up vertically.

• Silk- is considered to be the perfect natural substance in all respects for yarn making. The
strength, lustre and softness of silk makes it the most attractive textile. Is said to be the most
lavish, lustrous and rich fabric.
• Gabardine- is a twill weave fabric made of a variety of natural and synthetic fibres and a medium
weight fabric made of fine yarns.

• Georgette- is a thin, transparent, lightweight fabric and is mainly made of highly twisted silk
yarns.

• Jean- is a durable cotton fabric and made of fine cotton yarn in twill weave.

• Organdy - is a thin, light and transparent cotton fabric in plain weave with a stiff finish.

• Poplin - is a fine and tightly woven cotton fabric of plain weave.

• Rubia - is a thin muslin, slightly thicker than the voile fabric.

• Chiffon-is a lightweight, sheer, shiny, and plain - weave fabric.

• Cambric- is a closely woven plain weave cotton fabric which is finished with a little gloss on one
side. -

• Voile- is a sheer, transparent, soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric.

 Different Types of Stitches

Flat Stitches

• Running Stitch
-stitch made by passing the needle in and out repeatedly with short. Can be used for outlining,
for spirals and as the base for other combination stitches.

• Back Stitch
- it is a utility stitch which strongly and permanently attaches two pieces of fabric. The stitch
sewn one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitches lengths forward on the
reverse side to form solid line of stitching on both sides.

• Split Stitch
- is a variation of stem stitch in which the needle passes through the thread of the previous
stitch, splitting the previous stitch. Is used in outlining as well as in filling some areas.

• Stem Stitch
- is a fine outlining stitch which can be seen as a row of oblique even sized stitches and an
overlapping stitch that produces a corded appearance which is mostly used for small designs like
for handkerchiefs.

• Cross Stitch
- is formed by two crossing arms that are worked in rows of even slanted stitches. Is used for
saree borders, dresses, children wear and furnishing items.
• Herringbone Stitch
- is a variation of cross stitch, in which the cross is made at the top and bottom instead of in the
centre and well suited for floral design and to neaten the edges of materials.

• Couching Stitch
- a single or multiple threads, wires and decorative materials are laid on the fabric and held in
place by sewing diagonally.
- can be worked on outlines or to fill the areas by laying the material side to side, covering the
whole area to be embroidered.

• Satin Stitch
-an embroidery stitch worked in parallel lines so closely and evenly. Is mostly used on
monograms, handkerchiefs, bags, pillow covers, etc.

• Long and Short Stitch

-a form of free style embroidery often used for shading flowers, petal birds’ designs. Uses two or
three different shades of colour, where the light shade of colour is used on the upper part and
dark shade on the lower or inner part of the design.

• Fishbone
- it resembles the backbone of a fish and is a type of filling and flat stitch, which is suitable for
making leaves or feathers. It is mainly used to embroider children's garments, and home
furnishing items.
LOOP STITCHES

• Chain Stitch
- a technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain - like pattern and is mostly used
to embroider straight lines and can be used on floral designs, birds, animals, etc. It is used to
embroider adult and children's garments.

• Lazy-Daisy
- is a small loop stitch mostly used to embroider small petals and leaves. It is a variation of the
chainstitch.

• Blanket Stitch
-is used to reinforce the edge of thicked materials or to finish the blankets edges. It can be
worked in straight or diagonal lines.

• Buttonhole Stitch
-is used to finish buttonholes and to create an outline, finish the edges or attach appliques. It is
mostly used for doing floral designs and is used to make the corners of table covers, bed sheets,
sofa covers, chair covers, etc.

• Feather Stitch
-a technique made of open, looped stitches worked alternately. It is used differently in double
line and floral designs and mainly used in embroidering handkerchiefs, neck and sleeve borders,
etc.
• Fly Stitch
-is also a type of loop stitch. It involves making a single loop with the thread and then tacking it
down.

• French Knot
- rounded and has a raised look that makes the design look elevated. Is mostly used to create
the centre of a flower and the eyes in an embroidered figure.

• Bullion Stitch
- a decorative technique that is worked by twisting a thread around a sewing needle several
times before inserting the needle into the cloth. Is used mainly for embroidering small roses and
can be made on home furnishing also.
 General steps to be taken by the embroiderer.
The following basic steps need to be followed while doing any kind of embroidering and can be
used for both flat as well as loop stitches. Once the embroiderer has prepared herself/himself by
following these steps, s/he may follow the specific steps of a particular style of embroidery.

(i) The fabric of the traced embroidery design should be firmly fixed in the frame. Fix the fabric in such a
way that the design is in the centre of the embroidery frame or hoop. Gently fix the fabric between the
two rings of the hoop and tighten with the screw of the hoop or frame.

(ii) Collect all the appropriate tools and materials required for doing embroidery work.

(i) Thread the needle with required strand of the thread.

(iv) Pull the thread on the upper side of the fabric at the initial point of the design from the back side of
the fabric. Attach the end of the thread by a very small knot or hiding the end with the stitches on the
back side of the fabric.

(v) Make sure your hands are clean and washed so as not to leave stains on the fabric or the thread.