Uttarakhand's Traditional Dye Plants
Uttarakhand's Traditional Dye Plants
ethnobotanical studies. The methodology recently plant dyes regain their Rhododendron lepidotum Wall. ex
for collection of plant samples and importance, on account of their non- G. Don (leaf, flower), Rimelia
recording of ethnobotanical information problematic and eco-friendly nature, as reticulata (Taylor) Hale & Fletcher
of dye yielding plants have been adopted compared to synthetic dyes which are (whole plant), Semecarpus
as per recommended procedure33-35. The suspected to cause several environmental anacardium Linn. f. (fruit), Sophora
voucher specimens have been deposited and health hazards. Keeping in view the mollis (Royle) Grahm ex Baker
in the Herbarium, HNB Garhwal significance of natural dyes, some aspects (root), Tamarindus indica Linn.
University, Srinagar (GUH), with the of the resources from a rich biodiversity (leaf), Urtica dioica Linn. (root),
collector’s number. The detailed state Uttarakhand, are briefly mentioned Wrightia arborea (Dennst.) Mabb.
information on dye yielding plants was hereunder. (bark, leaf), Zanthoxylum armatum
recorded through personal interviews with DC. (bark), etc.
the old folk including some priest and Survey and Distribution Dye yielding plants are
elderly women folk, and people associated In the present context, search and distributed throughout the vegetation
with trade of woollen fabrics as well as retrieval of indigenous traditional zones of Uttarakhand from tarai-bhabar
craft objects. Simultaneously pertinent knowledge on natural dyes of Uttarakhand to alpine zones. Approximate distribution
literature on the subject has also been revealed significant resource based based on elevation range represented
consulted. The dye yielding plants information. Dye yielding plants 9 species in alpine zones (above 3200m
recorded from various parts of the state numbered 106 species belonging to 63 asl), 9 species in subalpine or higher
have been enumerated in Table 1, wherein families (Table 1). Majority of dye montane zones (2500-3200m), 39 species
the plant species are arranged in resources belong to dicotyledones with the in temperate like montane zones (1500-
alphabetical order with correct botanical exception of 4 - monocots, 3 - 2500m), 37 species in tarai-bhabar to
names, followed by vernaculars and family gymnosperms and 3 - lichens. Perusal of siwalik ranges and 22 species extend their
name, habit, plant part(s) used, nature literature indicated several little known distribution from sub-Himalayan tracts to
of dye and their distribution range (in dye yielding plants11, 24, 26 i. e. Acacia montane zones, i.e. sharing their
elevation). nilotica (Linn.) Willd. ex Del. (fruit), occurrence in both the altitudinal zones.
Actaea acuminata Wall. ex Royle Majority of dye yielding resources are of
Results and Discussion (seed), Aesculus indica (Colebr. ex common occurrence, however, some have
Prior to the discovery of synthetic Camb.) Hook. (bark), Agrimonia shown rare availability, on account of their
dyes, the natural dyes had been in pilosa Ledeb. (bark), Averrhoa over exploitation or localised distribution.
continuous exploration and excessive carambola Linn. (bark, fruit), Careya Important species under the category
utilization. However, in 1856 W.H. Perkin arborea Roxb. (bark), Corylus includes: Actaea acuminata,
while searching for the cure of malaria, jacquemontii Decne (fruit), Arnebia benthamii (Wall. ex G.
accidentally oxidized coal-tar derivative Cupressus torulosa D. Don (leaf), Don) John., Bischofia javanica
aniline, the first artificial mauve dye36. This Daphne papyracea Wall. ex Steud. Blume, Datisca cannabina Linn.,
discovery led to an advance domain of (bark, fruit), Hypericum Nardostachys grandiflora, Onosma
synthetic dyes, replacing the natural dyes. oblongifolium Choisy (flower), hispidum Wall. ex D. Don, Sophora
Thus, for the last many years synthetic dyes Nardostachys grandiflora Royle mollis, Taxus baccata Linn. ssp.
dominated, however, some of them like (inflorescence), Oroxylum indicum wallichiana (Zucc.) Pilger, etc.
Annatto, Henna, Logwood, Indigo, Katha (Linn.) Vent. (bark, fruit),
(Cutch), Madder, Red Sandal, Saffron, Phlogacanthus thyrsiformis Dye yielding plant parts and dye nature
Turmeric, etc. ever remained in demand (Hardw.) Mabb. (flower), Pinus Dyes under utilization are
for their distinct qualities. Moreover, wallichiana A. B. Jackson (bark), produced from various parts of the plant,
i.e. root, rhizome, stem, bark, leaf, flower, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, Hibiscus, dyes depends on the use of mordants and
fruit, seed or whole plant, even in few Mirabilis, Malvaviscus and Rosa, experience of a person to bring refinement
cases resin or gum [Acacia nilotica, which are instantly used in Holi, or other in particular dye or specific preparation.
Lannea coromandelica (Houtt.) festivals and rituals. Fruit rind of Acacia
Merr.] and stem galls (Pistacia nilotica, Aegle marmelos (Linn.) Method of dye preparation
khinjuk Stocks, Terminalia Correa ex Roxb., Aesculus indica, Techniques of extraction of dyes
chebula Retz.) also yield dye. The Emblica officinalis Gaertn. syn. depend upon the specific part of the plant
important dyes extracted from roots or Phyllanthus emblica Linn., Juglans resource. To extract dye from
underground parts include Beta regia Linn., Mallotus philippensis underground root or rhizome, stem or
vulgaris Linn., Curcuma domestica (Lam.) Muell.-Arg and Punica bark, the material is cut into pieces,
Valeton, Datisca cannabina, Rubia granatum are of common use. soaked in water for two to three days and
cordifolia Linn., Agrimonia pilosa, Sometimes pulp of fruit of Artocarpus made into paste. After squeezing and
Hedychium spicatum Buch.-Ham. ex heterophyllus, A. lakoocha, Aegle filtration, the whole extract is boiled and
Sm., Rumex hastatus D. Don, marmelos, Averrhoa carambola, concentrated by repeated heating, subject
Sophora mollis, Urtica dioica, Berberis spp., Emblica officinalis, to specific requirement. For fruits and
Berberis spp., etc. Stem or bark is the Myrica esculenta, Prinsepia utilis fruits-rind, the material is squeezed into
important dye source in Acacia catechu Royle, Syzygium cuminii (Linn.) juice and added with required water. This
(Linn. f.) Willd., Aesculus indica, Skeels, etc. are also made into dyes. solution is kept for 2-5 days in iron or
Alnus nepalensis D. Don, Whole plants used in dyes commonly earthern pots. In case of ‘Kamala’
Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam., A. include lichens and herbaceous green (Mallotus philippensis) the ripe fruits
lakoocha Roxb., Bauhinia plants. Generally chlorophyll, the source are collected and allowed to lie in heap.
racemosa Lam., Careya arborea, of green colour is easily extracted with The powdered dye stuff of the fruit surface
Celtis australis Linn., Engelhardtia the help of many solvents, therefore, large is separated through rubbing the fruits
spicata Lesch. ex Blume, Euonymus number of plants are preferred to extract manually or sometimes fruits collected in
tingens Wall., Lagerstroemia green dye, i.e. from the leaves of a sac and externally pressed to isolate the
parviflora Roxb., Myrica esculenta Adhatoda zeylanica Medik., dye powder. The floral parts and leaves,
Buch.-Ham. ex D. Don, Pinus Amaranthus spp., Cinnamomum when used for dye, are crushed and
wallichiana, Rheum spp., Taxus tamala (Buch.-Ham.) Nees ex dissolved in water for 12-24 hours,
baccata ssp. wallichiana, Eberm., Cupressus torulosa D. Don, followed with gentle heating for the
Symplocos spp., etc. Floral dyes include Rumex hastatus, R. nepalensis required concentration. In broader sense
Butea monosperma (Lam.) Kuntze, Spreng., Spinacia oleracea Linn., etc. methods of extraction of dyes are more
Grevillea robusta A. Cunningh. ex The actual nature of dye colour or less similar to various population of
R. Br., Indigofera atropurpurea varies from plant to plant and their parts India25, 30-32, however, variations are based
Buch.-Ham. ex Hornem., I. (Table 1), including methods followed in on the specific fibre requirement and use
heterantha Wall. ex Brandis, the dye preparations. Except for a few cases of mordants for colour fastness. These
Nyctanthes arbor-tristis Linn., (Acacia catechu, Cinnamomum mordants also result into variation in dye
Punica granatum Linn., tamala, Juglans regia, Mallotus colour, even same dye can produce
Rhododendron arboretum Sm., philippensis, Prinsepia utilis, different colours using different
Tagetes erecta Linn., T. patula Punica granatum, Rubia cordifolia, mordants37. Several of the vegetable dyes
Linn., Toona hexandra (Wall. ex Symplocos ramosissima Wall. ex G. are used as mordants and usage of mixture
Roxb.) M. Roem., Woodfordia Don, Woodfordia fruticosa, etc.) of dyestuff is a common practice. Light
fruticosa (Linn.) Kurz and several most of the natural dyes are feeble in solution of organic manure, cow dung or
others locally cultivated species of nature. Therefore, fastness or longevity of urine, cream of tartar, curd water, ash of
wood or bark, rock salt, lemon juice, lime Among the local population dyes from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, three
water are common mordants used by the Acacia catechu, Artocarpus spp., myrobalams and some lichens (species of
locales. Extract from dye yielding parts of Juglans regia, Rheum spp., Rubia Everniastrum, Rimelia and Usnia).
several plants such as species of manjith, Mallotus philippensis, Green colour from the leaves of
Achyranthes, Adhatoda, Anogeissus, Phlogacanthus thyrsiformis, Taxus Adhatoda zeylanica, Cinnamomum
Artemisia, Cinnamomum, Geranium, baccata ssp. wallichiana and tamala, Cupressus torulosa,
Punica, Rhododendron, Rumex, Woodfordia fruticosa are believed to Rumex nepalensis, Solanum
Solanum, Tamarindus, Tectona, be superior for woollen and silk fabrics, nigrum, Spinacia oleracea, etc. are
etc. are occasionally used as mordants. whereas large number of dyes extracted often used in sweet preparations. Dyes
Primitive methods of mordant utilization from Ampelocissus latifolia (Roxb.) from Arnebia benthamii, Cyperus
also include to keep the dye solution in Planch., Aegle marmelos, Butea scariosus, Datisca cannabina,
earthern, iron, copper, or aluminium pots, monosperma, Curcuma domestica, Everniastrum sp., Parmelia sp.,
and to add tanniniferous materials like Cinnamomum tamala, Geranium Rimelia sp. of lichens, Geranium
extract of tea, coffee, cinnamomum and nepalense, Lannea coromandelica, nepalense, G. wallichianum, Myrica
senna bark, etc. With the advancement of Lagerstroemia parviflora, Peristrophe esculenta, Rheum webbianum,
knowledge, weak salts of Iron, Chromium, paniculata, Toona hexandra and Rhododendron arboreum, Symplocos
Aluminium and Tin have been used in the several others are preferred for dyeing paniculata and Terminalia bellirica
dye preparations. Now various chemical rough weaving and other textile fibres. added to flavour beverages and locally
salts available in the market succeeded in Dyes from Curcuma prepared drugs.
the usage of mordants, a few are domestica, C. aromatica, Celtis A few decades back ink was
Aluminium or Potassium sulphate, australis, Euonymus tingens, prepared from the local resources.
Potassium dichromate, Ferrous sulphate, Grewia optiva, G. subinaequalis, Commonly used plants yielding ink dye
Sodium carbonate, Sodium bicarbonate, Hedychium spicatum, Hippophae include Acacia catechu, A. nilotica,
Stannous chloride, etc. used by local salicifolia, Lawsonia inermis, Alnus nepalensis, Anogeissus
experts to bring refinement in dyeing art37. Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis latifolia, Datisca cannabina,
jalapa, Mallotus philippensis and Emblica officinalis, Hedychium
Dye uses Everniastrum cirrhatum (Fr.) Hale spicatum, Juglans regia, Punica
Commonly the dyes are used for are commonly used for body adornment. granatum, Semecarpus
local requirements, however, some of Arnebia benthamii, Juglans regia, anacardium, Terminalia bellirica,
these have significant commercial values. Lawsonia inermis, Emblica T. chebula, and Zanthoxylum
Acacia catechu, Anogeissus officinalis, Onosma hispidum, armatum. For ink preparation, dye
latifolia (Roxb. ex DC.) Wall. ex Rheum spp., Sophora mollis and yielding part is gently heated with water
Bedd., Arnebia benthamii, Berberis Urtica dioica are some of the plants followed with filtration and solution is
spp., Cinnamomum tamala, used as hair-care dyes. kept in earthern pots, added with some
Hedychium spicatum, Juglans Crocos sativa (Kesar) though mordants (Alum, lac, tatri, etc.) or a little
regia, Lawsonia inermis Linn., still commercial cultivation trials are not vegetable laxative gums (Acacia
Mallotus philippensis, Punica successful in Uttarakhand, however, catechu, Bauhinia retusa, Bombax
granatum, Rheum spp., Rubia manjith, frequently used as dyestuff in food ceiba, Shorea robusta and Ziziphus
Symplocos spp., Terminalia bellirica preparations. The other indigenous dyes mauritiana).
(Gaertn.) Roxb., T. chebula, used for the purpose include Beta In the long past minerals were
Woodfordia fruticosa and some vulgaris, Datisca cannabina, common dyestuffs used in rock
lichens are exploited, particularly in Mallotus philippensis, Punica paintings 38, however, presently some
perfume, leather and textile industries. granatum, Rheum moorcroftianum, minerals (red or yellow soil rich in iron
Conclusion
With the modern phases of
development the dyes have become the
most important resources, owing to their
multifarious utilization, including an
emerging branch of medicine i.e.
chromotherapy, greatly depends on natural
colouring dyes 39. There has been an
increasing awareness of pollution
problems related to synthetic dye
industries, as well as these dyes include Figs. 1-13: 1. Benthamidia capitata; 2. Curcuma domestica;
3. Indigofera atropurpurea; 4. Rheum moorcroftianum; 5. Toona serrata;
some toxic chemicals leading to allergies 6. Rhododendron lepidotum; 7. Arnebia benthamii; 8. Phlogacanthus thyrsiformis;
and other health hazards. Therefore, the 9. Aesculus indica; 10. Butea monosperma; 11. Nardostachys grandiflora;
dye use, associated with textile, food, 12. Cupressus torulosa; 13. Hedychium spicatum
beverages, perfumes, lotions, and
158 Natural Product Radiance
Explorer:Research Paper
160
Name of the species Vernacular name Family Habit Dye yielding plant part(s) Dye produced Altitute (m)
161
Explorer:Research Paper
Name of the species Vernacular name Family Habit Dye yielding plant part(s) Dye produced Altitute (m)
162
Impatiens balsamina Linn. Gulmehndi Balsaminaceae H Flowers Red 1000-1800
Indigofera atropurpurea Buch.-Ham. ex Kala-Sakina Fabaceae Sh Flowers Purple 1000-1800
Hornem.
Indigofera heterantha Wall. ex Brandis Sakina Fabaceae Sh Flowers Pink-purple 1000-2000
Juglans regia Linn. Akhrot Juglandaceae Tr Bark/fruits Camel/brown 1500-2800
Lagerstroemia parviflora Roxb. Dhaura Lythraceae Sh Bark Black 300-800
Lannea coromandelica (Houtt.) Merr. Kalmina Anacardiaceae Tr Bark/resin Yellow-brown 350-1200
Lawsonia insermis Linn. Mehndi Lythraceae Sh Leaves Yellow-orange 300-1200
Madhuca longifolia (Koen.) MacBride Mahwa Sapotaceae Tr Bark Yellow-brown 300-700
Mahonia borealis Takeda Bara-tolar Berberidaceae Sh Bark/roots Yellow 2000-3000
Mallotus philippensis (Lam.) Muell.-Arg. Ruina Euphorbiaceae Tr Fruits Red-orange 600-1500
Mirabilis jalapa Linn. Gulabans Nyctaginaceae H Flowers Pink-red 400-2000
Explorer:Research Paper
163
Explorer:Research Paper
Explorer:Research Paper
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