Assignment 2
Understanding of Apparel Quality
Inspection of a garment -FORMAL SHIRT
Submitted by :
Soumi Panja (BFT/18/249)
Anshu (BFT/18/222)
Introduction
INLINE INSPECTION : Inspection means
checking the quality of work or a product. Inline Inspection means checking
the quality of the product in the process instead of checking at the end of
the process when product is completely made. Inline inspection in a
garment factory means checking of semi-stitched garments or partially
stitched garments while pieces are still inside the line and all sewing
operations are not yet stitched.
1) Inline checking at check points: Quality checker checks semi-stitched
garment at fixed workstation inside the sewing line at critical operations
only. This checking station is known as checkpoint. At this checkpoint
quality checker checks all operations done up to that point. 100% garments
are checked at this check points. A line may have multiple checkpoints
depending on product type.
2) Roving quality checking: A quality checker may be appointed to check
garments at all workstations in a sewing line randomly. This inline checker
goes to every workstation and randomly pick bundles and checks few
pieces. He concentrates only one operation at which he checking. Checking
workstation is not provided at each workstation in the line, so this checker
checks stitch quality of the garment by standing
3) Traffic light System: Traffic Light System for quality checking is also one
example of inline inspection. You can read more about the traffic light
system in this article.
4) Inline inspection by buyer QA representative: Whether factory follows
inline garment inspection process or not, some buyers send their quality
personnel to check garments in the initial days of production start and
middle of the production. This inspection process is also known as mid-line
inspection. Quality checker checked garment following AQL and prepare
reports and give feedback to the factory representative. The factory takes
corrective actions based on QA’s comments.
Purpose of inline garment inspection
1. The main purpose is to stop defect generation at source. Early detective
of defective garment can save time and money for repair work. If a defect is
not detected when it made and following processes are done on that
defective piece defective piece may become more critical. This makes more
difficult to open the seam again the repair the garment. Thus repair cost
would be high.
2. To improve productivity: Chances of defect generation reduces. Thus no
possibility of piling up WIP in certain operations and no chance to stopping
work at few operations and let the line to dry.
3. Early feedback to cutting department: If garments are checked inline,
defects related to cutting can be detected at the initial 2 to 3 operations.
Sewing floor can inform the cutting department about the cutting issues if it
exists. Based on the feedback from the sewing line cutting department take
action quickly and cut following lays accordingly.
Flowchart of Men’s Shirt’s Areas Of Inspection
Collar
↓
Size
↓
Button and Button hole
↓
Pocket
↓
Hem
↓
Yoke and Shoulder
↓
Side seams
↓
Cuffs
↓
Finished appearance
Inspection zones
DEFECT ZONES
Shirt inspection check list
Location Inspect for :
• Collar Both points are same or not, strip or check is
match accurately, stitch, collar flat or not.
• Size Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is
correct or not.
• Button & button Placed in right place or not, evenness
of gap between one button to hole other, stitch is done
correctly, are there any broken button or not.
• Pocket Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket
position, size, stitch, stripe or check is match, flat or
not.
• Hem Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not, edge
free from stitch.
• Yoke & shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped
stitch. Side seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from
raw edge.
• Cuffs Strips or check matching, top stitch, flat or not.
• Finished Threads edge comes out or not, are there any
oil spot or not, fabric appearance fault, color matching,
strip matching.
Causes & Remedies of Location Defects
▪ Both points are not aligned.
▪ Pattern mistake Proper pattern marking strip or
check is not match
▪ Pattern mistake Proper mitering accurately/stitch
collar flat or not
▪ Improper Stitch/seam
▪ Proper folding & stitching
▪ Incorrect size parts
▪ Improper ticketing & Proper ticketing & bundling
▪ Button & Not placed in right place
▪ Improper marking
▪ Improper inspection
▪ Replace Sleeve
▪ Unequal size
▪ Improper Proper measurement, measurement
/stitching marking , & stitch.
▪ Pocket improper positioning & stitch Improper
marking/stitch
▪ Proper marking & stitch Hem puckering, raw edge.
Improper machine
▪ Proper settings, fabric settings/ fabric type & stitch
type/stitch Yoke & Stitch, puckering problem,
Machine setting/ Proper machine shoulder
skipped stitch. workmanship setting &
workmanship
▪ Cuffs Strips or check not matching
▪ Improper marking.
▪ Improper top stitch, not flat Slippage of back side
or Folders may be used improperly.
COLLAR DEFECTS:
▪ Uneven (edges are Improper marking Marking
should be accurate
▪ Operator’s fault with proper techniques of
horizontal line) stitching
▪ Cutting faults
▪ Appropriate equipments
▪ Unequal Improper marking
▪ Proper marking with skilled dimensions stitching.
Overstretched fabric
▪ Accurate tension over fabric
. Front placket Defect Causes
▪ Marking should be accurate
▪ Operator’s fault terms of measurement & relative
positioning of button & Button holes are not
buttonholes) with proper according to button
techniques of stitching placement
Labels Defects
▪ Marking should be accurate positioning of labels &
tags with proper techniques of stitching
PocketDefects
▪Appropriate equipments
▪Extra thread
▪Improper inspection
▪Proper inspection & extra thread should be
trimmed. Floated on seam Appropriate equipments
should be used to avoid this.
BUTTON HOLE
▪ Extra thread
▪ Improper inspection
▪ Inspection should be proper.
▪ Floated on the seam
▪ Appropriate equipments should be used to avoid
this.
▪ Improper stitch
▪ Inaccurate setting of Machine setting should be
machine accurate.
▪ Wrong type of thread
▪ Thread should be inspected in terms of tenacity,
count, ply, twist etc.
The defects found in the example of formal
shirts:
COLLAR DEFECT :
ARMHOLE STITCHING DEFECT :
PUCKERING DEFECT :
CUFF DEFECT:
Thank you
