Sewing needle & its application
MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF NEEDLE
SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS
PARTS OF A NEEDLE
Butt
Shank
Shoulder
Long Groove
Short Groove
Eye
Needle point
Scarf
Blade
ANATOMY OF NEEDLE
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
BUTT
The end of the needle
The butt determine the length of the needle when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the
sewing machine.
SHANK
upper part of theneedle
may be cylindrical or have a flat side.
larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of strength
SHOULDER
Intermediate between shank and the blade
It is also called shaft
BLADE
Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle
Longest part of the needle.
Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf.
The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point and its eye passes through the fabric
Greatest amount of the friction .
SHORTGROOVE
It extends a little above and below theeye
Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the needle thread.
LONGGROVE
Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle" thread for smoothstitches.
Provides a protective channel in which the thread isdrawn through.
ACorrectly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the thread diameter, offers considerable
protection to thethread.
SCARF
Concave section above the eye of theneedle
Indentation at back of needle.
Along scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to loop thread moreeasily.
EYE
• Hole in end of needle through which thread passes.
• The hole through which the threadpass
• Eyeis located below the scarf
• Needle size and type determine size and shape of eye
FUNCTION OF THE NEEDLE
To produce hole in the material.
To carry the needle thread through the material.
To pass the needle thread through the loop.
SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD
If the needle is too small for the thread.
Thread will not pass freely through the eye.
Thread will not fit properly into the long grove.
Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion (ঘর্ণ).
ষ
Can lead to costly thread breakages in production.
If the needle is too large for the thread.
There will be poor control of the loop formation which may
cause slip stitches.
It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the
stitches and give an unattractive seam appearance.
Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line.
DETERMINING THE RIGHT NEEDLE FOR A THREAD
Here’s aquick way to determine if the thread and the sewing
machine needle are suitable.
Take half a metre of the thread being used on the machine.
Thread itthrough the eye of a loose needle.
Hold the thread vertically with the needle at the top.
DeterminingThe Right Needle For AThread
If the needle is too big, it will drop to the bottom of the thread
If the needle is too small, it will stick at the top of the thread
If the needle is the right size, it will slowly spiral to the bottom of the
thread
NEEDLE POINT
Most machine needles will look similar
but they will differ in their tips:
Set/Spear point - These are used for most
woven fabrics
Ball point - These have a rounded tip and
are usedfor knitted fabrics. The rounded
end allows the needle to separate the
yarns without cutting them, which reduces
the chance of the fabric laddering
Wedge point - These are designed to cut a
hole asthey penetrate the fabric. Theyare
used for machining leather and plastic
materials.
NEEDLE POINT
SPEAR NEEDLE POINT
BALL NEEDLE POINT
CLOTH POINT NEEDLE
EFFECT OF DIFFERENT NEEDLE POINT
NEEDLE POINT
Slim Set Point also referred to asacute round point (SPI)
*This point is used for dense woven fabrics as it
causes less damage, helps set a straighter stitch and minimizes
seampucker.
*Commonly used for microfibre and densely woven fabrics, coated
materials, topstitching of collars and cuffs in shirts.
Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal round
point (R)
This point is used for normal fabrics with standard seams as it
pushes the yarn to the side.
NEEDLE POINT
Light Ball Point (SES)
This point is used for sewing lightweight knitted fabric. It is
sometimes used for fine denim and light, densely woven
material to avoid damaging the material.
Medium Ball Point (SUK)
This point is used for sewing medium weight knitted fabric. Itis
also used for medium to coarse denims, particularly sand-
washed and stonewashed grades
NEEDLE POINT
Heavy Ball Point (SKF)
This point is used for coarse knitwear and for sewing dense woven
elastic (it won’t push the elastic yarn through)
Special ball point (SKL)
Used for medium tocourse elastic materials with covered
elastomeric threads and very coarse knitwear.
NEEDLE POINT
NEEDLE POINT
NEEDLE SIZE & THICKNESS
The size of a needle is generally
represented in one of two ways
(although there are others).
One method is by a number metric (Nm).
This represents the diameter of the needle
blade in hundredths of a millimetre
measured just above the scarf but not at any
reinforced part of the blade.
For example, a Nm 110 needle is 1.1
millimetre in diameter, while a Nm 50
needle is half a millimetre in diameter. The
thickness of the blade on the right is
1.1mm wide which is shown in Nm as 110.
NEEDLE SIZE & THICKNESS
The alternative standard needle sizing
method is the Singer/Asia numbering system
sometimes referred to as the American
system that uses a number that represents a
size.
CHECKLIST FOR INSERTING A NEW NEEDLE
Always ensure the needle is the correct needle system
for the sewing machine
• Make sure the needle size & eye fits the thread size being used.
• Make sure the needle is pushed all the way into the needle holder.
• Ensure that the angle of theneedle is correct.
• After inserting a needle in the machine turn the machine hand wheel
manually to make sure the needle contacting anyparts.
When in doubt insert a new needle.
CHECKING A NEEDLE
THAT IS ALREADY IN A MACHINE
Is the needle inserted correctly?
Is the needle contacting any machine parts?
Is the needle bent (ব ক
াঁ )?
Is the eye rough or blocked with melted(গলিত) fibre?
Is the point damaged?
When in doubt change the needle.
UNIVERSAL NEEDLE
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to
enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium- weight woven,
consider needle specifically suited to fabric.
For example,
size 18 universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans
needle worksbetter
BALLPOINT & STRETCH NEEDLES
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch
needle for highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between
fabric threads ratherthan pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is
slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and
universal needles to see whichdoesn't cut yarn and yields best
results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretchneedle
MICROTEX & SHARP NEEDLES
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather;
precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Hasan acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric
may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual- feed presser
foot.
LEATHER NEEDLE
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an
arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy
synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear
leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp
needle
LEATHER NEEDLE
DENIM (JEANS) NEEDLE
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery
fabrics, artificial leather, andvinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified
shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate
hole. Goes throughfabric and meets bobbin hook better on
dense woven fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewingvery heavy
fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle
through fabric (by turning hand crank).
DENIM (JEANS) NEEDLE
HANDICAP/SELF THREADING NEEDLE
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in
threading slot at theeye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from
needle before cutting thread so needledoesn't unthread. Needle
works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits,
so test-sew to checkfor fabric and needle compatibility.
HANDICAP/SELF THREADING NEEDLE
HEM STITCH NEEDLE
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and
batiste.
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank to create holes
as you sew.
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective when needle
returns to same needle hole more than once.
HEM STITCH NEEDLE
TWIN (DOUBLE) NEEDLE
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching.
Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce tworows of
stitches. Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to
6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery,
denim, and Metallica points.
Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance
between needles
TWIN (DOUBLE) NEEDLE
TRIPLE NEEDLE
Uses:Same uses asfor double needle.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three needles
to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal point in
2.5mmand 3mm widths.
Troubleshooting: Same as for double needle.
TRIPLE NEEDLE AT KANSAI M/C
SPRING NEEDLE
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feeddogs.
Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent
fabrics from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for
presserfoot.
Troubleshooting: Before using, practice free-motion stitching with
heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull
paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety
glasses for free-motion work, since needles oftenbreak.
SPRING NEEDLE
PUNCH NEEDLE
NEEDLE CONTROL PROCESS
Objectives
To avoid garments defects caused by blunt (ভ ত াঁ ব তীক্ষ্ণত হীন) or damaged
needles.
To ensure end product is safe and free of metal contamination.
This is a critical compliance issue. It is a requirement to strictly adhere (মেনে
চলা) to the agreed needle procedure at all levels.
Refer to process flow chart below :-
No spare needles on the production area
For all needles maintain records.
Broken needle record sheet to be used.
Central control point for all needles.
Needles Must be kept in clearly marked, locked storage with restricted access.
An old needles must be stored in a separate container away from new needles.
All needles removed from M/C must be given back to the central point or
issue department for new needle to be issued.
HOW TO CHECK THE NEEDLE POINT
To check machines needle everyday.
To take appropriate steps over the needle checking & replace the
defective needle with immediate effect.
To ensure the M/C needle check time everyday early morning &
during lunch break.
To maintain a needle checklist job card for individual batch M/C.
NEEDLE SEARCHING SYSTEM
Thank
You
