Coordinates: 17°29′03″N 92°02′47″W

Palenque
Palenque (Spanish pronunciation: [pa'leŋke]; Yucatec Maya: Bàakʼ
[ɓaːkʼ]), also anciently known as Lakamha (literally: "Big Palenque
Water"), was a Maya city state in southern Mexico that flourished
in the 7th century. The Palenque ruins date from ca. 226 BC to
ca. AD 799. After its decline, it was absorbed into the jungle of
cedar, mahogany, and sapodilla trees,[1] but has since been
excavated and restored. It is located near the Usumacinta River in
the Mexican state of Chiapas, about 130 km (81 mi) south of
Ciudad del Carmen, 150 meters (490 ft) above sea level. It
averages a humid 26 °C (79 °F) with roughly 2,160 millimeters
(85 in) of rain a year.[1]

Palenque is a medium-sized site, smaller than Tikal, Chichen

Itza, or Copán, but it contains some of the finest architecture,
sculpture, roof comb and bas-relief carvings that the Mayas
produced. Much of the history of Palenque has been
reconstructed from reading the hieroglyphic inscriptions on the
many monuments; historians now have a long sequence of the
ruling dynasty of Palenque in the 5th century and extensive
knowledge of the city-state's rivalry with other states such as
Calakmul and Toniná. The most famous ruler of Palenque was
K'inich Janaab Pakal, or Pacal the Great, whose tomb has been
found and excavated in the Temple of the Inscriptions.

By 2005, the discovered area covered up to 2.5 km² (1 sq mi), but

it is estimated that less than 10% of the total area of the city is
explored, leaving more than a thousand structures still covered
by jungle. Palenque received 920,470 visitors in 2017.[2]
Collage of Palenque.

Contents
History
Rulers
Early Classic period
Late Classic period
Abandonment
Art and architecture
Temple of the Inscriptions Location within Mesoamerica
Temples of the Cross group Alternative name Bàak', Lakamha
Palace
Location Chiapas, Mexico
Other notable buildings
Region Chiapas
Modern investigations
Coordinates 17°29′03″N
See also
92°02′47″W
Notes History
References Periods Late Preclassic to
External links Early Postclassic
Cultures Maya civilization
Site notes
History
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Mythological beings using a variety of emblem glyphs in their
Official name Pre-Hispanic City
titles suggests a complex early history. For instance, Kʼukʼ
Bahlam I, the supposed founder of the Palenque dynasty, is and National Park
called a Toktan Ajaw in the text of the Temple of the Foliated of Palenque
Cross. Criteria Cultural: i, ii, iii, iv

The famous structures that we know today probably represent a Reference 411 (http://whc.une
rebuilding effort in response to the attacks by the city of sco.org/en/list/411)
[3]
Calakmul and its client states in 599 and 611. One of the main Inscription 1987 (11th session)
figures responsible for rebuilding Palenque and for a renaissance Area
1,772 ha
in the city's art and architecture is also one of the best-known
Maya Ajaw, Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal (Pacal the Great), who ruled
from 615 to 683. He is known through his funerary monument The city of Palenque also is home to
dubbed the Temple of Inscriptions, after the lengthy text The Temple of Inscriptions, inside lies
preserved in the temple's superstructure. At the time Alberto Ruz the sarcophagus of Pacal the Great.
Lhuillier excavated Pakal's tomb, it was the richest and best
preserved of any scientifically excavated burial then known from the ancient Americas. It held this position
until the discovery of the rich Moche burials at Sipan, Peru and the recent discoveries at Copan and
Calakmul.

Beside the attention that K'inich Janaab' Pakal's tomb brought to Palenque, the city is historically significant
for its extensive hieroglyphic corpus composed during the reigns of Janaab' Pakal, his son Kʼinich Kan
Bahlam II, and his grandson K'inich Akal Mo' Naab', and for being the location where Heinrich Berlin[4]
and later Linda Schele and Peter Mathews outlined the first dynastic list for any Maya city.[5] The work of
Tatiana Proskouriakoff as well as that of Berlin, Schele, Mathews, and others, initiated the intense historical
investigations that characterized much of the scholarship on the ancient Maya from the 1960s to the
present.[6] The extensive iconography and textual corpus has also allowed for study of Classic period Maya
mythology[7] and ritual practice.[8]

Rulers

A list of possible and known Maya rulers[9][10] of the city, with dates of their reigns:

Mythological and legendary rulers:

?-Muwaan Mat c.2325 BC
Uk'ix Chan c.987 BC
Casper c.252 BC

Palenque Dynasty:

K'uk' Bahlam I 431–c.435 AD

"Casper" 435–c.487 AD
B'utz Aj Sak Chiik 487–c.501 AD
 Ahkal Mo' Nahb I 501–524 AD
K'an Joy Chitam I 529–565 AD
Ahkal Mo' Nahb II 565–570 AD
Kan Bahlam I 572–583 AD
Yohl Ik'nal 583–604 AD (female)
Ajen Yohl Mat 605–612 AD
Janahb Pakal c.612 AD (position uncertain)
Sak K'uk' 612–615 AD (female)
K'inich Janaab Pakal I 615–683 AD
K'inich Kan Bahlam II 684–702 AD
K'inich K'an Joy Chitam II 702–711 AD
K'inich Ahkal Mo' Nahb III 721–c.736 AD
K'inich Janaab Pakal II c.742 AD
K'inich Kan Bahlam III c.751 AD
K'inich K'uk' Bahlam II 764–c.783 AD
Janaab Pakal III 799–? AD

Early Classic period

The first ajaw, or king, of B'aakal that we know of was K'uk Balam
(Quetzal Jaguar), who governed for four years starting in the year 431.
After him, a king came to power, nicknamed "Casper" by
A bas-relief in the Palenque
archaeologists. The next two kings were probably Casper's sons. Little museum that depicts Upakal
was known about the first of these, B'utz Aj Sak Chiik, until 1994, K'inich, the son of K'inich Ahkal
when a tablet was found describing a ritual for the king. The first tablet Mo' Naab III.
mentioned his successor Ahkal Mo' Naab I as a teenage prince, and
therefore it is believed that there was a family relation between them.
For unknown reasons, Akhal Mo' Naab I had great prestige, so the
kings who succeeded him were proud to be his descendants.

When Ahkal Mo' Naab I died in 524, there was an interregnum of four
years, before the following king was crowned at Toktán in 529. K'an
Joy Chitam I governed for 36 years. His sons Ahkal Mo' Naab II and
K'an B'alam I were the first kings who used the title Kinich, which
means "the great sun". This word was used also by later kings. B'alam
was succeeded in 583 by Yohl Ik'nal, who was supposedly his daughter.
The inscriptions found in Palenque document a battle that occurred
under her government in which troops from Calakmul invaded and
sacked Palenque, a military feat without known precedents. These
events took place in 599.

A second victory by Calakmul occurred some twelve years later, in 611,

under the government of Aj Ne' Yohl Mat, son of Yohl Iknal. In this
occasion, the king of Calakmul entered Palenque in person,
consolidating a significant military disaster, which was followed by an K'inich Kan B'alam II, one of the
epoch of political disorder. Aj Ne' Yohl Mat was to die in 612. many rulers of Palenque. Detail
from the Temple XVII Tablet.

Late Classic period

 B'aakal began the Late Classic period in the throes of the disorder
created by the defeats before Calakmul. The glyphic panels at the
Temple of Inscriptions, which records the events at this time, relates
that some fundamental annual religious ceremonies were not
performed in 613, and at this point states: "Lost is the divine lady,
lost is the king."[11] Mentions of the government at the time have not
been found.

It is believed that after the death of Aj Ne' Yohl Mat, Janaab Pakal,
The two inner columns from the
also called Pakal I, took power thanks to a political agreement.
Temple of the Inscriptions
Janaab Pakal assumed the functions of the ajaw (king) but never was
crowned. He was succeeded in 612 by his daughter, the queen Sak
K'uk', who governed for only three years until her son was old
enough to rule. It is considered that the dynasty was reestablished from then on, so B'aakal retook the path
of glory and splendor.

The grandson of Janaab Pakal is the most famous of the Mayan kings,
K'inich Janaab' Pakal, also known as Pakal the Great. He began rule at
the age of 12 years after his mother Sak Kuk resigned as queen after
three years, thus passing power on to him. Pakal the Great reigned in
Palenque from 615 to 683, and his mother remained an important force
for the first 25 years of his rule. She may have ruled jointly with him.
Known as the favorite of the gods, he carried Palenque to new levels of
splendor, in spite of having come to power when the city was at a low
point. Pakal married the princess of Oktán, Lady Tzakbu Ajaw (also
known as Ahpo-Hel) in 624 and had at least three children.

Most of the palaces and temples

of Palenque were constructed
during his government; the city
flourished as never before,
eclipsing Tikal. The central
complex, known as The Palace,
The Palace Observation Tower
was enlarged and remodeled on
various occasions, notably in
the years 654, 661, and 668. In
The Palace as seen from the
courtyard.
this structure, is a text describing how in that epoch Palenque was
newly allied with Tikal, and also with Yaxchilan, and that they were
able to capture the six enemy kings of the alliance. Not much more
had been translated from the text.

After the death of Pakal in 683, his older son K'inich Kan B'alam
assumed the kingship of B'aakal, who in turn was succeeded in 702
by his brother K'inich K'an Joy Chitam II. The first continued the
architectural and sculptural works that were begun by his father, as
well as finishing the construction of the famous tomb of Pakal.
Pakal's sarcophagus, built for a very tall man, held the richest
collection of jade seen in a Mayan tomb. A jade mosaic mask was
placed over his face, and a suit made of jade adorned his body, with
In the Palace
each piece hand-carved and held together by gold wire.[1]
Furthermore, K'inich Kan B'alam I began ambitious projects, including the Group of the Crosses. Thanks to
numerous works begun during his government, now we have portraits of this king, found in various
sculptures. His brother succeeded him continuing with the same enthusiasm of construction and art,
reconstructing and enlarging the north side of the Palace. Thanks to the reign of these three kings, B'aakal
had a century of growing and splendor.

In 711, Palenque was sacked by the realm of Toniná, and the old king
K'inich K'an Joy Chitam II was taken prisoner. It is not known what the
final fate of the king was, and it is presumed that he was executed in
Toniná. For 10 years there was no king. Finally, K'inich Ahkal Mo' Nab'
III was crowned in 722. Although the new king belonged to the royalty,
there is no evidence that he was the direct inheritor direct of K'inich
K'an Joy Chitam II. It is believed, therefore, that this coronation was a
break in the dynastic line, and probably K'inich Ahkal Nab' arrived to
power after years of maneuvering and forging political alliances. This
king, his son, and grandson governed until the end of the 8th century.
Little is known about this period, except that, among other events, the
war with Toniná continued, where there are hieroglyphics that record a
new defeat of Palenque.

Occasionally city-state lords were women. Lady Sak Kuk ruled at

Palenque for at least three years starting in 612 CE, before she passed Mask of the Red Queen from the
her title to her son. However, these female rulers were accorded male tomb found in Temple XIII.
attributes. Thus, these women became more masculine as they assumed
roles that were typically male roles.[12]

Abandonment

During the 8th century, B'aakal came under increasing stress, in concert with most other Classic Mayan city-
states, and there was no new elite construction in the ceremonial center sometime after 800. An agricultural
population continued to live here for a few generations, then the site was abandoned and was slowly grown
over by the forest. The district was very sparsely populated when the Spanish first arrived in the 1520s.

Art and architecture

Important structures at Palenque include:

Temple of the Inscriptions

The Temple of Inscriptions had begun perhaps as early as 675[13] as

the funerary monument of Hanab-Pakal. The temple superstructure
houses the second longest glyphic text known from the Maya world
(the longest is the Hieroglyphic Stairway at Copan). The Temple of
the Inscriptions records approximately 180 years of the city's history
from the 4th through 12th K'atun. The focal point of the narrative
records K'inich Janaab' Pakal's K'atun period-ending rituals focused
on the icons of the city's patron deities prosaically known
Temple of the Inscriptions
collectively as the Palenque Triad or individually as GI, GII, and
GIII.[14]
The Pyramid measures 60 meters wide, 42.5 meters deep and 27.2 meters high. The Summit temple
measures 25.5 meters wide, 10.5 meters deep and 11.4 meters high. The largest stones weigh 12 to 15 tons.
These were on top of the Pyramid. The Total volume of pyramid and temple is 32,500 cu. meters.[15]

In 1952 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier removed a stone slab in the floor of the back room of the temple
superstructure to reveal a passageway (filled in shortly before the city's abandonment and reopened by
archeologists) leading through a long stairway to Pakal's tomb. The tomb itself is remarkable for its large
carved sarcophagus, the rich ornaments accompanying Pakal, and for the stucco sculpture decorating the
walls of the tomb. Unique to Pakal's tomb is the psychoduct, which leads from the tomb itself, up the
stairway and through a hole in the stone covering the entrance to the burial. This psychoduct is perhaps a
physical reference to concepts about the departure of the soul at the time of death in Maya eschatology
where in the inscriptions the phrase ochb'ihaj sak ik'il (the white breath road-entered) is used to refer to the
leaving of the soul. A find such as this is greatly important because it demonstrated for the first time the
temple usage as being multifaceted. These pyramids were, for the first time, identified as temples and also
funerary structures.

The much-discussed iconography of the sarcophagus lid depicts Pakal in the guise of one of the
manifestations of the Maya maize god emerging from the maws of the underworld.[16]

The temple also has a duct structure that still is not completely understood by archaeologists. It has been
suggested that the duct aligns with the winter solstice and that the sun shines down on Pakal's tomb.

Temples of the Cross group

The Temple of the Cross, Temple of the Sun, and Temple of the
Foliated Cross are a set of graceful temples atop step pyramids, each
with an elaborately carved relief in the inner chamber depicting two
figures presenting ritual objects and effigies to a central icon. Earlier
interpretations had argued that the smaller figure was that of K'inich
Janaab' Pakal while the larger figure was K'inich Kan B'ahlam.
However, it is now known based on a better understanding of the
iconography and epigraphy that the central tablet depicts two images of Temple of the Cross
Kan B'ahlam. The smaller figure shows K'inich Kan B'ahlam during a
rite of passage ritual at the age of six (9.10.8.9.3 9 Akbal 6 Xul) while
the larger is of his accession to kingship at the age of 48.[17] These temples were named by early explorers;
the cross-like images in two of the reliefs actually depict the tree of creation at the center of the world in
Maya mythology.

Palace

The Palace, a complex of several connected and adjacent buildings

and courtyards, was built by several generations on a wide artificial
terrace during four century period. The Palace was used by the
Mayan aristocracy for bureaucratic functions, entertainment, and
ritualistic ceremonies. The Palace is located in the center of the
ancient city.

Within the Palace there are numerous sculptures and bas-relief

The Palace and aqueduct carvings that have been conserved. The Palace most unusual and
recognizable feature is the four-story tower known as The
Observation Tower. The Observation Tower like many other
buildings at the site exhibit a mansard-like roof. The A-shaped Corbel
arch is an architectural motif observed throughout the complex. The
Corbel arches require a large amount of masonry mass and are limited
to a small dimensional ratio of width to height providing the
characteristic high ceilings and narrow passageways. The Palace was
equipped with numerous large baths and saunas which were supplied
with fresh water by an intricate water system. An aqueduct, constructed
of great stone blocks with a three-meter-high vault, diverts the Otulum
River to flow underneath the main plaza. The Palace is the largest
building complex in Palenque measuring 97 meters by 73 meters at its
base.

Other notable buildings

The Temple of the Skull has a skull on one of the pillars.
Temple XIII contained the Tomb of the Red Queen, an
unknown noble woman, possibly the wife of Pakal, The Corbel arch seen in a
discovered in 1994. The remains in the sarcophagus were hallway at the Palace
completely covered with a bright red powder made of
cinnabar.
The Temple of The Jaguar (a.k.a. The Temple of the
Beautiful Relief) at a distance of some 200 meters south
of the main group of temples; its name came from the
elaborate bas-relief carving of a king seated on a throne in
the form of a jaguar.
Structure XII with a bas-relief carving of the God of Death.
Temple of the Count another elegant Classic Palenque Temple of the Count
temple, which got its name from the fact that early explorer
Jean Frederic Waldeck lived in the building for some time,
and Waldeck claimed to be a count.

The site also has a number of other temples, tombs, and elite residences, some a good distance from the
center of the site, a court for playing the Mesoamerican Ballgame, and an interesting stone bridge over the
Otulum River some distance below the Aqueduct.

Modern investigations
After de la Nada's brief account of the ruins, no attention was paid to them until 1773 when one Don Ramon
de Ordoñez y Aguilar examined Palenque and sent a report to the Capitan General in Antigua Guatemala, a
further examination was made in 1784 saying that the ruins were of particular interest, so two years later
surveyor and architect Antonio Bernasconi was sent with a small military force under Colonel Antonio del
Río to examine the site in more detail. Del Rio's forces smashed through several walls to see what could be
found, doing a fair amount of damage to the Palace, while Bernasconi made the first map of the site as well
as drawing copies of a few of the bas-relief figures and sculptures. Draughtsman Luciano Castañeda made
more drawings in 1807, and a book on Palenque, Descriptions of the Ruins of an Ancient City, discovered
near Palenque, was published in London in 1822 based on the reports of those last two expeditions together
with engravings based on Bernasconi and Castañedas drawings; two more publications in 1834 contained
descriptions and drawings based on the same sources.
Juan Galindo visited Palenque in 1831, and filed a report with the Central
American government. He was the first to note that the figures depicted in
Palenque's ancient art looked like the local Native Americans; some other
early explorers, even years later, attributed the site to such distant peoples as
Egyptians, Polynesians, or the Lost Tribes of Israel.

Starting in 1832 Jean Frederic Waldeck spent two years at Palenque making
numerous drawings, but most of his work was not published until 1866.
Meanwhile, the site was visited in 1840 first by Patrick Walker and Herbert
Caddy on a mission from the governor of British Honduras, and then by
John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood who published an
illustrated account the following year which was greatly superior to the
previous accounts of the ruins.

Désiré Charnay took the first photographs of Palenque in 1858, and returned
in 1881–1882. Alfred Maudslay encamped at the ruins in 1890–1891 and Detail of a relief at the
took extensive photographs of all the art and inscriptions he could find, and Palace drawn by Ricardo
made paper and plaster molds of many of the inscriptions, and detailed maps Almendáriz during the Del
and drawings, setting a high standard for all future investigators to follow. Rio expedition in 1787
Maudslay learned the technique of making the papier mache molds of the
sculptures from Frenchman Desire Charnay.

Several other expeditions visited the ruins before Frans Blom of Tulane
University in 1923, who made superior maps of both the main site and
various previously neglected outlying ruins and filed a report for the
Mexican government on recommendations on work that could be done
to preserve the ruins.

From 1949 through 1952 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier supervised excavations

and consolidations of the site for Mexico's National Institute of
Anthropology and History (INAH); it was Ruz Lhuillier who was the
first person to gaze upon Pacal the Great's tomb in over a thousand
years. Ruz worked for four years at the Temple of Inscriptions before
unearthing the tomb. Further INAH work was done in lead by Jorge
Acosta into the 1970s.

In 1973, the first of the very productive Palenque Mesa Redonda

(Round table) conferences was held here on the inspiration of Merle Jade mask of King K'inich
Greene Robertson; thereafter every few years leading Mayanists would Janaab Pakal. National Museum
meet at Palenque to discuss and examine new findings in the field. of Anthropology and History,
Meanwhile, Robertson was conducting a detailed examination of all art Mexico City.
at Palenque, including recording all the traces of color on the
sculptures.

The 1970s also saw a small museum built at the site.

In the last 15 or 20 years, a great deal more of the site has been excavated, but currently, archaeologists
estimate that only 5% of the total city has been uncovered.

In 2010, Pennsylvania State University researchers, Christopher Duffy and Kirk French, identified the
Piedras Bolas Aqueduct as a pressurised aqueduct, the earliest known in the New World. It is a spring-fed
conduit located on steep terrain that has a restricted opening that would cause the water to exit forcefully,
under pressure, to a height of 6 metres (20 ft). They were unable to identify
the use for this man-made feature.[18]

See also
List of Mesoamerican pyramids
List of megalithic sites
Maya script
Temple 20

Notes
1. Schrom, Michael. "Palenque" (https://web.archive.org/web/20040
101123800/http://www.mnsu.edu/emuseum/archaeology/sites/me
so_america/palenque.html). Archived from the original (http://ww
w.mnsu.edu/emuseum/archaeology/sites/meso_america/palenqu
e.html) on January 1, 2004. Retrieved March 3, 2011.
2. "Estadística de Visitantes" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120708
021202/http://www.estadisticas.inah.gob.mx/) (in Spanish). INAH.
K'inich K'an B'alam II
Archived from the original (http://www.estadisticas.inah.gob.mx/) ("Chan Bahlam II").
on 8 July 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2018.
3. Martin and Grube 2000:
4. Berlin 1959, 1965, 1968
5. Mathews and Schele 1974
6. Schele and Freidel 1990; Martin and Grube 2000
7. Berlin 1963; Wald [Schele] 1999; Freidel et al. 1993; Freidel and
Macleod 2000; Stuart 2005: Chapter 6
8. Stuart 1998
9. Martin & Grube 2008, pp. 155-176.
10. Skidmore 2010, pp. 2-91.
11. Mesoweb
12. Snow, Dean R (2010). Archaeology in North America. Prentice
Hall. pp. 165–166.
13. Schele and Mathews 1998:97-99
14. Berlin 1963; Schele and Mathews 1998: 106; Carrasco 2005: 433
15. Scarre 1999
16. The direction of the K'inich Janaab' Pakal's movement between
realms has been the subject of debate in recent years. Initially,
Linda Schele, David Freidel, and others saw Pakal as descending
into the underworld (Schele and Mathews 1998: 115). More
recently, David Stuart and Freidel have suggested the opposite
based on glyphic texts accompanying similar scenes. In these
images the birth glyph (often spelled SIH-ya-ja) describes the
depicted event.
17. Bassie 1991
18. Maya plumbing, first pressurized water feature found in New
World (http://live.psu.edu/story/46532) Archived (https://web.archi
ve.org/web/20130208225152/http://live.psu.edu/story/46532)
2013-02-08 at the Wayback Machine, Penn State university, 4
May 2010, accessed 5 May 2010

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External links
Maya Explorations Center (http://www.mayaexploration.org/research_pubs.php).
Unaahil B'aak: The Temples of Palenque (Wesleyan University) (http://learningobjects.wesleya
n.edu/palenque) - Contains a learning objects program, panoramas, 3D models, and glyphs
and translations.
Mesoweb's Palenque resources (http://www.mesoweb.com/palenque/resources/index.html)
 animated 3D-reconstruction on Palenque-3D.com (https://web.archive.org/web/201908141634
30/http://www.palenque-3d.com/)
The Tablet Of The 96 Hieroglyphs (http://www.ubu.com/ethno/visuals/mayan01.html)
The Ruins of Palenque: bilingual essay with audio (http://www.studyspanish.com/comps/palen
que2.htm)
Drawings of the Palenque site from the Antonio del Rio 1784 expedition (http://memory.loc.go
v/cgi-bin/ampage?collId=rbc3&fileName=rbc0001_2005kislak1page.db&recNum=0)
Misty and Mystic - Palenque - Description and Photos (http://amazingtemples.com/location/am
erica/mexico/chiapas/palenque-chiapas-mexico)
Estimating Palenque's population on Mesoweb (PDF) (https://web.archive.org/web/201504020
93333/http://www.mesoweb.com/pari/members/archive/PARI0401c.pdf)
National Geographic Live!: Palenque and the Ancient Maya World (https://www.youtube.com/w
atch?v=BCs86ZrxX9k) on YouTube

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