80 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020

A weekend
in Ho Chi
Minh City
for less than
US$120*
Ho Chi Minh City in the springtime is
welcoming and vibrant — the rain is
dissipating, the weather is warming up
and the colors of the landscape, from
the city’s markets, pagodas and French
buildings, are shining through more
strongly. It’s the best time to explore its
many facets — from the historic District
1 to the urban buzz of District 3. Here’s
how you can cover the city, without
burning a hole in your pocket
*US$; hotels, airfare and spontaneous shopping
or snacking not included

TEXT LIAM MOORE

2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 81

 1
AFFORDABLE HOLIDAYS

1 The Notre-Dame Cathedral

Basilica of Saigon
2 Vintage interiors at the
Saigon Central Post Office

82 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020

 reflects both Vietnamese and French
Day 1 Indochine influences. For a taste of

T
it, head to the famous Banh Mi Hong
Cultural collision Hoa in District 1. Grab one with your
preferred filling (US$1.30) — choose COZY COCKTAILS
he history of from chicken, tuna, roast or barbecued BEER IS THE ALCOHOL OF CHOICE
Vietnam is written pork and omelet. IN THE CITY, BUT THERE ARE ALSO
CLASSY COCKTAIL OPTIONS FOR
on the walls of Next, get a Grab or taxi (US$1.70) THOSE HANKERING FOR
District 1. The and head for the Saigon Central SOMETHING FANCIER
colonization of Post Office, right at the heart of the
the country, by the same district. Often credited as the The ATM Cocktail Bar & Kitchen
The entry to this new spot is hidden
French, in 1861, marked the beginning work of French civil engineer and
behind a fake but Instagram-
of a century of struggle. It’s in the architect Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, friendly ATM booth.
European-style architecture here — this grand, canary-yellow building is The real surprise comes when
from the churches, to the post office in fact designed by French architect you walk into its regal and romantic
and opera house — that people can see Alfred Foulhoux. The eye-catching space, reminiscent of
an old library. Happy-hour drinks
and feel the legacy of the French. But architecture — think domed ceilings,
are served at half-price from
the famous 20th century war that split colorful tiling, vintage but defunct 5pm to 8pm; these US$4
Vietnam along a north-south divide phone booths, and more — is something cocktails won’t send you out
is what led HCMC to develop its own to marvel at. looking for a real cash machine.
independent, cosmopolitan style, and After taking in the historic space, 27/10 Nguyen Binh Khiem

become completely distinct from the cross the street to check out the Notre-
Lost & Found Saigon
capital in the north. Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon. This new cocktail bar in
And a great way to start your first Renovations should be coming to a District 1 aims to bring back
day here is with a banh mi breakfast. close, so you can enjoy the impressive the vintage feel of pre-’70s Saigon,
This iteration of bread came about view from the front. before it became Ho Chi Minh
City. With a selection of affordable
after the French integrated baguettes This is a good time to get a big bottle
classic and signature craft cocktails
into the local palate. Banh mi today of water (US$0.40), at the nearby (from US$3.50) as well as local
uses a Vietnamese-style baguette and Circle K, for the day’s walk. And then, beer, you can’t go wrong. Floor
19/6b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Banana Mama
Situated near the end of Bui
Vien street, this Hawaiian-style
rooftop cocktail bar regularly hosts
international DJs for a unique
tropical vibe. Cocktails start from
US$7.80. 102 Cong Quynh

to escape the Saigon heat, hop over to

Phin & Bean at 57 Nguyen Du (in the
direction of the Saigon River) to sip on
some Vietnamese coffee. The café itself
is in another colonial building that
dates back to 1924 — it occupies the
Imprimerie de l’Union building that
once belonged to Nguyen Van Cua, a
PHOTOS BY SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

South Vietnamese pilot, revolutionary

and publishing tycoon. Cool off with
ca phe sua da, an iced coffee with
condensed milk (US$1.95).
When you’re re-energized, begin
navigating your way around the
Independence Palace (US$1.70 per
2
entry), which is about a 10-minute

2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 83

 walk away. Here, on the shady grounds, House, built in 1897, another example a more authentic experience, sit
you can learn about the history of when of the city’s impressive French at a classic, plastic chair-adorned
this structure was the seat of power in colonial architecture. There are 6pm street-side joint, and enjoy beers
South Vietnam. Another short walk shows throughout the week — like the (up to US$1.30 per order) as you
away is the iconic Ben Thanh Market. A O and Teh Dar shows, which are observe the steady flow of people
There’s a seemingly never-ending minimalist performances that feature moving through this street that is the
assortment of clothes, trinkets and simple bamboo props (tickets begin heartbeat of Saigon.
souvenirs here — feel free to haggle! at US$30). End the night with some snacks,
The market activity continues past Want to unwind with a nice and try some mango with chili
AFFORDABLE HOLIDAYS

sundown, when even more stalls set cocktail after the show? Head to powder, or quail’s eggs with salt and
up on the surrounding roads. Feeling Broma: Not A Bar, which is most pepper from street sellers (US$0.80),
hungry? Go around the corner to the definitely a bar — and a good one too. to nhau the local way — that means
Ben Thanh Street Food Market, and It’s a bit of a climb up some stairs to “together” in Vietnamese; meaning
try some bun thit nuong, a noodle salad reach this rooftop retreat but you’ll to share food and drink. Get ready
with grilled pork (US$3.90), and have a be greeted by a shaded veranda that for some friendly folk to help you
beer or a smoothie (up to US$2). overlooks Nguyen Hue. Enjoy live through your first, and by no means
Once you’ve had your fill, it’s time music, the beautiful Saigon skyline last, Vietnamese cheers.
for another relaxing walk — this time (spot the Bitexco Financial Tower,
to Nguyen Hue, District 1’s famous one of the country’s tallest buildings)
walking street. This open promenade and spring for a cocktail (about
stretches from the spectacular People’s US$7) to up the mood. RECEIP
Committee Building — in front of For more affordable party options, T
CUSTOME
which stands the imposing statue of enjoy a walk down bustling Bui Vien R COPY
*******
Ho Chi Minh himself — all the way street. There are big sports bars *******
Food and
down to the Saigon River. On the other with pool tables and dance and party drinks
US$18.6
side of Nguyen Hue is the Saigon Opera venues, but for the best prices and -------------- 5
--------------
Entry tick ----------
-------------- ets US$31.70
--------------
Transpo
rt
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3 US$1.70
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A scene from the ----
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Teh Dar show at the TOTAL: U
Saigon Opera House
S$52.05
*******
*******

TAILORED TO FIT
One of the best things about
Saigon is its cheap tailors. If you’re
stopping by Tan Dinh Market
and the nearby pink church, the
area’s just the place to get clothes
tailor-made in the latest styles. Get
fitted at Veston Cuong, a small
and unassuming tailor shop, but
go in person as shop details might
be difficult to find online. You’ll
find that its tailors work well from
simple images of the styles you’re
looking for. It may also look like
the shop deals only in menswear,
but women’s tailoring is available
as well. Get measured and you can
expect to receive your customized
garment in a day or two. Shirts start
at around US$8; pants and dresses
at US$12. 37 Nguyen Van Giai

84 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020

 a sword plunging into the lake, or is it a
turtle’s back? The specifics are muddy,
but legend says that the structure is
there to hold the tail of a dragon that
lives under Saigon.
Depending on the time and your
inclination, you could either swing
into Bibulous for happy hour (5pm
to 9pm) cocktails (US$4) or pop
by Félicité Coffee & Eatery, just a
minute’s walk away, for coffee. The
latter is located on the second floor of
the postbox-style building — opt for
coconut coffee (US$2.40) or spiced
lemongrass iced tea (US$2.60), and
grab a seat on the balcony to enjoy
views over Turtle Lake.
Turtle Lake After that, it’s a short walk to the
4
War Remnants Museum (US$1.70
per entry), which remains popular
president Barack Obama in 2016. The with visitors who want to get the
Day 2 pagoda, housing intricate wooden
carvings of the Buddhist Hall of the
Vietnamese perspective on the Second
Indochina War (or the American War
The real Saigon Ten Hells, venerates Ngoc Hoang in Vietnam). Give yourself a few hours

D
(King of Heaven) and a number of to cover the exhibits in their entirety,
istrict 3 is the center of the beast-slaying generals. before the museum closes at 6pm.
city. It’s home to museums, Then, continue on the spiritual path Then it’s time to circle back to
Ngoc Hoang Pagoda (the Jade and appreciate a vegetarian meal at Tan Dinh Market in District 1 with
Emperor Pagoda) and markets of all Nha Hang Thuan Chay Giac Duyen another taxi or ride-share option
kinds. This neighborhood will give you at 16 Nguyen Huy Tu street. The (US$1.20). You’ve checked out the
a taste of how the locals live day to day, restaurant offers an extensive menu pink church but there’s time now to
away from the usual tourist hot spots. that features dishes such as stir-fried wander around Tan Dinh Market and
The first stop is Tan Dinh Church, one cucumber and mushroom, lemongrass check out Mary Jane’s rooftop bar, for
of the first places of worship in the city chili tofu, Vietnamese sour soup and cheap and cheerful sundowners (up to
— unmissable and pastel-pink, it has seaweed soup. A carb base and a few US$4 per order).
been standing since 1876. Mass is held dishes, plus a glass of tra da — that’s At dinnertime, head back down to
on most days at 6.15am, but if that’s too Vietnamese iced tea — usually come Chao Ech Singapore, at the corner of
early, you can still visit the church from under US$2.50. Tan Dinh Market. Chao Ech leverages
2pm to 7pm. Next, take a walk along Turtle Lake, on the local popularity of chao, or rice
Just across the road from the pink which is best reached by another short porridge (served with meat, offal and
church you’ll find an alley that holds taxi ride (US$1.20). This man-made other ingredients), to offer Singapore-
the popular Banh Xeo 46A, once visited lake in the middle of a roundabout style stewed frog congee. Each serving,
by the late chef and gourmand Anthony is a popular hangout for the younger which comes with iced tea, costs
Bourdain. This is easily the best place crowd — consider kicking back with US$2.80. But if eating frog isn’t your
to get a bite of hearty banh xeo, or them on the concrete platforms that thing, take a short walk
traditional pork and prawn pancake, stretch across the instead to Nha Hang Cuu
for breakfast. It’s US$4.35 for a small water. Pick out Non, a spot that specializes
one (the bigger one is good for two) the spot from afar in Greek-style lamb dishes.
IPT
and you can finish the meal with a by looking for its RECE Y
The Greek salad (US$4.70)
ER COP
refreshing lemon juice (US$1.10). central concrete CUSTOM and lamb kebab with
After your meal, hop onto a pillar structure. Built * * * * * ****** pita (US$5.60) is great
***
Grab or taxi (US$1.20) to the Jade in the ’70s, the design Fo od an d U S $ 2 6 .25 for two and the perfect
Emperor Pagoda — the Taoist temple of the pillar is still drinks
-- -- -- -- -- ------------ accompaniment to the
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---- -- -- -- -- city’s nighttime scenes.
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Transpo --
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---- 2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 85
5
US$31.5
--
TOTAL:
*
******
******
 5 Van Thanh Swimming Pool
6 Nong Trai Khoai GETTING AROUND
Many first-time visitors, who
use the city’s taxis, may worry
about being taken for a ride in the
wrong kind of way (be warned:
the meter jumps). But, until the
highly anticipated, long-overdue
AFFORDABLE HOLIDAYS

subway is completed, these hired

rides (by Mai Linh and Vinasun
taxi companies) are still the best
way to get around. A lower-cost
alternative is Grab — simply
download the app from your
respective mobile app store. With
a Vietnamese mobile data SIM (or
free café WiFi) and the app, you
can be sure of how much a trip
will cost. If you’re determined to
keep things under budget — and if
you’re bold enough — Grab bikes
are a cheaper and faster option.
5

After this, it’s time to get on a taxi turned into bar spaces — and offers
Day 3 (US$4.35) to Thao Dien in District
2, where the streets are wider,
snacks and appetizers (from deep-
fried olives to pickled chicken feet),
Farther afield environment greener and the traffic mains (from grilled snails to seafood

Y
far less intimidating. Hop between platters) and a large selection of local
our trip doesn’t have to be more upmarket coffee shops, bars or and international beers (from local Bia
all hustle and bustle — a restaurants to fill up a lazy afternoon. Quy Nhon to Czech Bernard Bohemian
relaxing day may be just the For lunch, Bep Vo is great for elegant lager). Enjoy a sizable meal for just
way to round things out. Begin with but reasonably priced food — try the US$4.30. Sit down and do a beer tour
a visit to Van Thanh Swimming Pool light and healthy grilled mackerel with of Vietnam from the comfort of your
(US$3.45 per entry) in Bin Thanh lemongrass and pineapple (US$3.25), table — but if you have to pick just one,
district, to enjoy the sun. Stroll around and finish with a smoothie (US$1.70). go with the affordable yet delicious Bia
this secluded, lush setting and feel Then, for a taste of lavishness in the Tuoi craft beer (US$5 per liter).
as if you’ve stepped away from the city, head into a gated community lined
rush of the city, and into the peaceful with luxury villas, to the Boathouse
Vietnamese countryside. Restaurant for riverfront dining. Have RECEIP
a beer (US$2.60) and enjoy the views
T
CUSTOME
R COPY
6 and cool breeze. *******
Your ride out of the area, to Pham *******
Food and
Viet Chanh, one of the city’s Japanese drinks
US$16.8
-------------- 5
areas, is once more by taxi (US$3.15). Entry tick
--------------
----------
ets
-------------- U
This up-and-coming neighborhood, --------------S$3.45
Transpo
rt
----------
with its maze of narrow, winding US$7.50
--
PHOTO BY STEPHANIE MUNO (5)

--
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alleys and delicious food and beverage ----
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options at every corner, may just TO
TAL: US$
27.80
take up the rest of your chilled-out *******
*******
day. Nong Trai Khoai, or “potato” in
Vietnamese, is a top pick for good Cebu Pacific flies
times. This bar, one of two branches to Ho Chi Minh City
from Manila.
in the city, mimics the ruin pubs of cebupacificair.com
Budapest — ramshackle buildings

86 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020

 Happening
now

Sardine salad
“The ca trich salad is
inspired by the fish from Phu
Quoc island. The fish is first
cured in a special marinade
of oil, garlic, chili, pepper and
bay leaves. I use a method
that helps keep the fish’s
natural flavors. The sardines
are added as a final topping
on a base made of lettuce
and Vietnamese cress that’s
garnished with chili, onion
and a homemade sweet and
sour dressing.”

Going Viejun at Kau Ba Oyster Bar in Saigon

Vietnamese chef Nikky Tran makes waves with her signature
Viejun-style (Vietnamese-Cajun) seafood cuisine

CHEF NIKKI TRAN HAS BEEN ON Influenced by the southern island of Phu Quoc and oysters from
A ROLL, SHOWING OFF Viejun- American Cajun food in Houston, Ha Long Bay. Nikky, nicknamed
style (Vietnamese-Cajun) cooking, a her home away from home — Nikki Kau Ba, has a “quality not quantity”
unique cuisine that’s been credited lived in the States for four years — approach to her cooking.
PHOTO BY ALEXANDRA PAKHOLCHUK

to her name. In July, she opened she first brought back the essence With that, Kau Ba Oyster Bar has
Kau Ba Oyster Bar in Ho Chi Minh of this soul food by recreating Cajun become the newest platform for
City, where it joins her renowned crawfish boils in Saigon. But she Nikky to showcase her specialties.
establishment Cau Ba Quan, as well also did it with a Vietnamese twist — The bo uc nuong ruou tequila
TEXT BY LIAM MOORE

as Kau Ba Saigon Kitchen & Bar introducing fresh, local ingredients (tequila steak), paired with the
in Houston, Texas. Cau Ba Quan, like river prawns. popular salad ca trich dau giam/
Nikki’s original Viejun opening, was As a hands-on chef, Nikki has an trung (sardine salad), makes a surf
notably featured on Somebody Feed intimate knowledge of her sources. ’n’ turf you can only find in Saigon.
Phil and Netflix’s Ugly Delicious. She gets seafood from the nearby fb.com/kaubaoysterbar1

28 Smile October 2018

 We sit down with
Bloody Mary Nikki, one of
“This concoction is from Talor, my Vietnam’s rising
manager. She’s from Louisiana,
which is famous for its Bloody culinary stars, to get
Marys. It’s also an ode to the Cajun some of her thoughts
cuisine that’s made my name
today. Our Bloody Mary has all the
on her home country
accoutrements we’ve come to expect and her Houston
from this feisty lady — garlic-infused
vodka, my signature Viejun salt
influences…
as well as a surprise vodka oyster
On MSG in
shooter within.”
Vietnamese food.
“MSG was treated as
something that made
food taste better. Today,
it’s cheap and easy to get, and this
has led people to mistaking it for a
spice. I personally feel that it’s for
lazy chefs. And yes, this did lead
me to emphasizing fresh, locally
sourced ingredients in my cooking.”

On the secret
of Viejun.
“When Vietnamese-
Americans began
importing crawfish to
Vietnam and selling them
at sky-high prices, I realized
Tequila steak I could do something better with
“The steak is made with local seafood. I put my own spin on
chilled Australian rib-eye, it. For now, Viejun-style food is just
marinated in tequila. It’s pan- one facet of my cooking.”
seared first then grilled and
torched. Sunflower sprouts On pho and Vietnamese cuisine.
and a mango-based dressing “I want to show the world that
are served alongside.” Vietnam has more than just
pho to offer. I also want to create
my own dishes and
show the Vietnamese
that common local
ingredients can be
put together in many
other different ways.”

Juice up... SAIGON IS A SMOOTHIE LOVER’S PARADISE AND A COLD GLASS OF BLENDED FRUIT CAN BE
JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERS ON A HOT DAY… (WHICH IS EVERY DAY!)

Juice Box is a small Sinh to 142 offers Luminus Smoothies

shop that serves all the fresh, Southeast Asian is an eco-friendly juice
fruit mash-ups your fruit and yogurt bowls, and smoothie spot
stomach could desire. alongside a range that offers discounts if
We recommend the ca of unique smoothie patrons bring along their
phe bo, a delicious mix blends. Their offerings own cups or reusable
of avocado smoothie are varied and a step straws. Try a drink from
and Vietnamese up from all the local, their Beast Mode menu
coffee that makes neighborhood sinh (featuring ingredients
the perfect morning to (smoothie) stands like avocado), for a quick
pick-me-up. fb.com/ that dot the entire city. dose of protein. fb.com/
juiceboxtruongdinh fb.com/sinhto142vn smoothiefactoryvn

October 2018 Smile 29