Tablet weaving for Dark Age reenactors
Finnish SZ motif
A copy of a Late Iron Age band from Finland
Description
The pattern is based on a find from Finland. The original has been lost and only a drawing exists.
The band has been reconstructed by Hansen with seven tablets, and is also shown in “Applesies and
Fox Noses”, with varying numbers of tablets but all are based on a two light, two dark setup with
the motifs created by individual turning of tablets. The pattern is also similar to a reconstruction of a
fragment from 10th - 12th century Ladoga, Russia, then a trading settlement founded by Vikings.
This version uses eight pattern tablets, which allows for a very simple turning sequence.
Figure 1: Sample woven in two-ply Silver Viscount machine knitting wool.
Copyright © Shelagh Lewins 2015
Difficulty Easy
Authenticity A-
A copy of a specific band, made using one more tablet for easier
weaving but the same technique as the original. Suitable for
Viking re-enactment, medium status.
Date Late Finnish Iron Age, approximately 1200 AD
Location Kekomäki cemetery, Kaukola, Finland
Number of pattern tablets 8
Number of border tablets 8
Weaving technique Threading two light, two dark. Diagonal motifs created by
individual turning of tablets.
References
Hansen, Egon H. Tablet Weaving: History, Techniques, Colours, Patterns. Hovedland 1990.
Karisto, Maikki and Pasanen, Mervi. Applesies and Fox Noses Finnish Tabletwoven Bands.
Salakirjat, 2013.
С. И. Кочкуркина, О. В. Орфинская. ПРИЛАДОЖСКАЯ КУРГАННАЯ КУЛЬТУРА:
ТЕХНОЛОГИЧЕСКОЕ ИССЛЕДОВАНИЕ ТЕКСТИЛЯ. Available on academia.edu,
http://tinyurl.com/mxn9sqq, 2014.
Schwindt, Theodor. Tietoja Karjalan rautakaudesta. 1892. Drawing 376. Reprinted 2012.
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Threading
Pattern tablets
Eight pattern tablets, each threaded with two yellow threads and two blue, arranged yellow /
yellow / blue / blue. It doesn't matter how the tablets lie when you thread up, so long as the two blue
threads are next to each other. You will arrange the tablets correctly in the next step.
Pattern tablets are numbered 1-8.
Border tablets
Four border tablets on each side. Each of the outer two border tablets is threaded with four blue
threads. Each of the inner two border tablets is threaded with four yellow threads. Orient the border
tablets alternately, S Z S Z.1
Border tablets are not numbered because they are not manipulated in the pattern, and you may
design any border you like.
Figure 2: labelling the positions. Figure 3: turning the tablets forwards.
A, B, C, D show the positions of the threads in If you work with the woven band on
the threading diagram. Most weavers do not your side of the tablets, push the top
label their tablets because which hole is “A” of the tablets away from you with
changes as you turn them. your thumbs.
Figure 4: flipping a tablet to change it from S to Z (top view).
1 Orientation refers to the direction the threads pass through the tablets (Figure 4).
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Weaving instructions
After you've threaded the tablets, arrange them to match Position 1 in Figure 5:
1. Flip tablets as necessary so that tablets 1-4 are Z-threaded, and 5-8 are S-threaded.2
2. Turn tablets as necessary until the threads are in the correct places, for example tablet 1
should have the two blue threads along the front edge.3
3. Weave 4 picks4, turning all tablets forwards: the tablets should now be in Position 2.
4. Continue with the instructions for each step in the diagram, always turning all tablets
forwards. Where indicated in the instructions, flip certain tablets to change their orientation.
Figure 5 shows the position of the tablets at the start of each step, so you can check you are at the
right place.
After you have completed Step 7, the tablets should be in Position 1 and you can start again at the
bottom of the diagram.
When the border warp threads become tightly twisted, flip the outer pairs of border tablets. On the
next pick, flip the inner pairs of border tablets. This will reverse the twining and undo the twist.
Troubleshooting
If you are having difficulty getting the pattern to work, try starting with Position 3:
1. Flip all tablets to be Z threaded.
2. Turn them until the colours match Position 3 in Figure 5.
3. Weave 4 picks, turning all tablets forwards.
You should see diagonal lines going across the band, matching the section between 2 and 3 on the
sample band below. If you do not, first check that your tablets are all Z-oriented, and then check
that your ABCD is the same way round as shown in Figure 4.
Continue with the instructions for Step 3: flip tablets 1-4, then weave 4 picks. The tablets should
now be in Position 4.
2 The numbers refer to pattern tablets. For example “Flip tablet 1” means “Flip the first pattern tablet”.
3 The “fell” is the leading edge of the woven fabric.
4 One “pick” is a single unit of weaving, that is turn the tablets, clear and beat the shed, tighten and then pass the weft.
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Tablets in position 7
1. Flip all tablets
Tablets in position 6
1. Flip tablets 5-8
2. Weave 4 picks
Tablets in position 5
1. Flip tablets 1-4
2. Weave 4 picks
Tablets in position 4
1. Flip all tablets
2. Weave 4 picks
Tablets in position 3
1. Flip tablets 1-4
2. Weave 4 picks
Tablets in position 2
1. Flip tablets 5-8
2. Weave 4 picks
Tablets in position 1
1. Weave 4 picks
Figure 5: weaving instructions.
Start at the bottom of the diagram and work upwards following the steps in turn.
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