DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Course Code : Tex-3015 Course Title : Textile Testing & Quality Control- II

Assignment on
Special fabrics: Properties and quality control

Submitted To : Rajib Shaha

( Assistant Professor
Department of Textile Engineering,
Southeast University)

Submitted By :
Name : Nakib Ibna Bashar
ID : 2018000400097
Batch : 37
Sec :2
Submission Date : 04/06/2020
 CONTENTS

Introduction

Classification of special fabric

Common Important Properties of all Special fabric ( According to fabric

application)

Basic about special fabric with their properties and application

Quality control of special fabric( Testing method)

 The brusting test

 Strength test
 Stiffness test
 Drape test
 Air permeability test
 Flammability test
 Water repellency test
 Abrasion resistance test
 Breathability test
 Dimensional stability test

Conclusion

Reference

Introduction:
Special fabrics are defined for those textile products generally which are used for non- clothing
application. The fashion aspects of textile are ignored here. The performance properties are the
main consideration.

Some other names of special fabrics/textile products:

(1) Technical textiles: Latest name of the special fabrics a

(2) Industrial textiles

(3) Performance textiles

(4) Functional textiles

(5) Engineered Textiles

(6) High-Tech Textiles Industrial textiles

Classification of special fabric:

Based on uses special fabrics are classified in various way such as:

Apparel : Apparel clothing.(Protective & safety fabric)

Non -Apparel : non clothing.( Technical textile)

Apparel:(Protective and safety fabric)

Waterproof fabric

Fire proof fabric

Camouflage fabric

Medical textile fabric

 Acidproof fabric

spacesuit fabric

Narrow fabric

Bamboo Fabric

Bulletproof fabric

Etc

Non Apparel:

Special fabric also used in

Home textile

Agriculture

Civil engineering

Industrial Medical and Hygiene

Transport textile

Ecological protection tex.

Packaging & containment

Sports and leisure

Etc
Common Important Properties of all Special fabric ( According to fabric
application)

 Biocompatible and Good dimensional stability;

 Good resistance to alkalis, acids and micro-organisms;
 Elasticity Free from contamination or impurities;
 Absorption / Repellency;
 Air permeability & good Water repellency
 Soft and Drapeable
 Smooth and Luxurious to the touch
 Good Breathability, Cool and Comfortable to wear
 Anti-static and Stiffness
 Strong and Durable
 Good Abrasion resistance
 Better Drape quality and High breaking strength
 Fire resistance & Acid resistance,
 Wear resistance, Puncture resistance & Flexural resistance,

Basic about special fabric with their properties and application:

Waterproof fabric:

Waterproof/breathable fabrics resist liquid water passing through, but allow water vapour to
pass through. Their ability to block out rain and snow while allowing vapour from sweat to
evaporate leads to their use in rainwear, waterproof outdoor sports clothing, tents, and other
applications.

Waterproof Fabric Characteristics

Sliding: waterproof fabric and breathable polyester waterproof fabric with Teflon coating has a
lower coefficient of friction. The loaded sliding friction is only in the values of 0.05-0.15.

Heat resistance: waterproof fabric has excellent resistance to heat and low temperature. It can
bear the high temperature to 300 ℃, it generally can be used continuously between 240 ℃ ~
260 ℃, with significant thermal l

Stability :waterproof fabric can work without embrittlement in freezing temperature.

Not sticky: breathable waterproof fabric and polyester waterproof fabric is treated with Teflon
coating adhesion. Though a thin film, it also shows a good waterproof, anti-oil pollution
function. Moisture resistance: waterproof fabric won’t stick on any water and oil stain. If it is
stuck with a small amount of sticky dirt, just simply wipe is clean, which saves time and
improves efficiency.

Wear resistance: waterproof fabric under higWear resistance: waterproof fabric under high
load has excellent wear resistance. It is durable.

Fireproof fabric:

A flame proof fabric is one which doesn’t propagate flame, i.e. any flame goes out quickly when
the igniting flame is with-drawn.
Important properties of flameproof fabric

 Flame proof fabric can protect the workers from heat and flame.
 Flame proof fabric has good strength and durability,
 The fabric is free from hazardous substance and skin-friendly.

Bulletproof special fabric:

Special fabric is include to made bullet proof fabric.Kevlar Bulletproof Vest has been the most
preferred bulletproof vest by the military and policemen because of its many characteristics
that are advantageous for them.

Characteristics of thes special fabric that is why it is one of the most popular personal body
armors used today.

 Durability and Exceptional Strength

 Comfortable and Flexible
 High Dimensional Stability –

Medical Textile Fabric

Medical Textiles is a branch of Technical Textiles. Medical textiles are textile products and
constructions for medical applications. Medical textiles are also known as Healthcare Textiles.
Medical Textiles is one of the most rapidly expanding sectors in the technical textile market.
They are used for first aid, clinical or hygienic purposes and rehabilitation. Not all the textile
fibers can be used here, because their performances depend upon interaction with the cells
and different fluids produced by the body. The use of textile materials for medical and
healthcare products ranges from simple gauze or bandage materials to scaffolds for tissue
culturing and a large variety of prostheses for permanent body implants. The textile materials
should have some specific properties to be useful as medical textile. Textiles materials that are
used in medical applications include

Property of these special fabric:

 Biocompatible
 Good resistance to alkalis, acids and micro-organisms;
 Good dimensional stability;
 Elasticity Free from contamination or impurities;
 Absorption / Repellency;
 Air permeability.
 Drape property.

Camouflage Fabrics

Technical textiles provide invaluable properties for military purposes, which are necessary for
movement, survival and struggle in a hostile environment. Soldiers must dress in such a way
that they feel comfortable and can also survive; it is therefore of paramount importance that
the clothing and associated equipment are lightweight, compact, durable, stable and of high
performance. Requirements placed on textile material protecting individuals in life critical
situations in terms of protection from various environmental conditions and combat threats
result in the significant investment of financial resources in the development of advanced
materials and technical textiles for military use.

Characteristics of camouflage fabric

The main functional criterion which fabrics for military purposes should meet include the
physical and camouflage requirements, resistance to various environmental conditions, water,
wind, fire, heat, specific battlefield threats, and economic conditions. Except for making military
clothing for different conditions and uses, camouflage fabrics are used for tactical and ballistic
protective vests, helmet protection, protection of military equipment in the field and complete
camouflage of military facilities. Hence, these textiles are often treated for resistance to UV,
water, fire, heat and wind, and it is very important that they still remain relatively lightweight

Spacesuit (special Fabric}

Space suits used by the astronauts during space shuttle missions represents the ultimate
protective clothing. They protect the astronauts from heat ,cold , chemical, micrometeoroids,
pressure fluctuations and temperature extremes.

Requirements characteristics of a Spacesuit fabric

 Have a pressurized atmosphere.

 Have sufficient oxygen supply.
 Eliminate carbon dioxide.
 Maintain a proper temperature despite of strenuous work and movement.
 Protect from micrometeoroids.
 Protect from radiation to some degree.
 Enable clear vision.
 Allow easy movement of the body inside the spacesuit .
 Enable easy conversation with others such as ground controllers, other astronauts etc.
Facilitate movement around the outside of the spacecraf
Bamboo Fabric

The term "bamboo fabric" widely refers to a number of different textiles that are made from
the bamboo plant. Fabrics have been made from bamboo for thousands of years, but it is only
in contemporary times that the process of making this hardy and fast-growing wood into fabric
has been perfected.

Characteristics of these fabric:

 Soft and Drapeable

 Smooth and Luxurious to the touch
 Good Breathability, Cool and Comfortable to wear
 Anti-static
 Strong and Durable

Geotextile special fabric( technical textile)

Geotextiles are permeable fabrics which, when used in association with soil, have the ability to
separate, filter, reinforce, protect, or drain. Typically made from polypropylene or polyester,
geotextile fabrics come in three basic forms: woven (resembling mail bag sacking), needle
punched (resembling felt), or heat bonded (resembling ironed felt).Geotextile composites have
been introduced and products such as geogrids and meshes have been developed. Geotextiles
are able to withstand many things, are durable, and are able to soften a fall if someone falls
down. Overall, these materials are referred to as geosynthetics and each configuration—
geonets, geosynthetic clay liners, geogrids, geotextile tubes, and others—can yield benefits in
geotechnical and environmental engineering design

Application:

Geotextiles and related products have many applications and currently support many civil
engineering applications including roads, airfields, railroads, embankments, retaining
structures, reservoirs, canals, dams, bank protection, coastal engineering and construction site
silt fences or geotube. Usually geotextiles are placed at the tension surface to strengthen the
soil. Geotextiles are also used for sand dune armoring to protect upland coastal property from
storm surge, wave action and flooding. A large sand-filled container (SFC) within the dune
system prevents storm erosion from proceeding beyond the SFC. Using a sloped unit rather
than a single tube eliminates damaging scour

Special fabric used in Technical textile:

 Technical textile: Definition given by textile institute, UK “Textile materials and products
manufactured primarily for their technical & performance properties rather than their aesthetic
or decorative characteristic” Limitations: Several members of textile products are combining
both performance and aesthetic properties. “Flame retardant, furnishing leisure wear, sports
wear etc. Application areas/classification Home textile Clothing components Agriculture,
Aquaculture, Horticulture & forestry Civil engineering Industrial engineering Medical & Hygiene
Transportation

Quality control of special fabric

There are many test inciude here for controlling quality of special fabric.

 The bursting test

The bursting test measures a composite strength of both warp & weft yarns simultaneously and
indicate the extent to which a fabric can withstand a bursting type of force will pressure being
applied perpendicular to the surface of the fabric.

Principle: Bursting Strength is the strength of a fabric against a multidirectional flow of

pressure. The pressure in a liquid is exerted in all directions and this phenomenon of a liquid is
used for testing bursting Strength in bursting strength tester.

Apparatus:
1. Bursting Tester.

2. Scale

3. Scissor etc.

Fig: Bursting Strength Test.

Machine description:

Bursting Tester consists of two clamps on the top of the machine. Under clamps there is a
rubber diagram. Under rubber diagram there is liquid pipe which containing liquid. There is a
pressure gauge is one side and there is a piston is another side.

Working procedure:

The fabric sample is clamped over the rubber diaphragm.

The pressure in the fluid increases at such a rate that the specimen bursts within 20 ± 3 sec.
(P1).

The height (extension) of the diaphragm is noted 4. Another test is carried out without a
specimen. I

The pressure to do this is noted and then deducted from the earlier reading

I
(strength of the specimen P1 - P2) is the actual bursting

Precaution:

 The pressure in the fluid should be increase at the specimen bursts within (20 ± 3 sec.) (P1).

 The height of the diaphragm should be noted carefully.

 Strength Test

Principle:

The strength of a fabric gives us an idea how much load we can apply on it and it is very
important for fabric. The strength of the fabric is very necessary for it because if the fabric
strength is not good then it will break with excessive tensile force and thus the dresses
produced may tear with the outside force. 

Apparatus: 

1.Fabric strength tester.

2.Scissors. Etc
 Fig: Fabric Strength Tester

Working procedure: 

At first 10inch × 2inch fabric was cut out from a big piece of fabric

The excess amount of fabric was cut because the two jaws will require at least 2inch each to
grip the fabric. I

Thus 10 samples were cut down for testing warp way strength and 10 samples for weft way
strength. I

Now, the first sample is fixed with the upper jaw J1 and the lower jaw J2.

The m/c is started and observed the dial until the sample is torn out.

When the sample is torn out the m/c is stopped and the reading is taken.

By this way the others’ reading are taken.

I
 At last average and CV% are calculated.

Precaution:

 Stiffness test:

Principle: It is the property by which fabric resist to deform. Stiffness is a special property of
fabric. It is the tendency of fabric to keep standing without any support. It is a key factor in the
study of handle and drape of fabric.

Apparatus:

1. scale

2. Scissor.

3. Shirley stiffness tester.

4. Iron m/c etc.

Machine description:

Shirley stiffness tester is made of plastic. There is a template on the top of the machine. A scale
is attached with the template. A mirror and an index line is adjusted in the machine. There are
two side pieces which supports the platform. Plastic piece is inclined with platform plain with
41.5 degree.

Working procedure:

At first we have to collect the sample fabric and cut it according to the dimension of template
(6″×1″). I

Put the fabric below the template. So the tip of fabric and tip of template in the same line.

Push forward the template with fabric until the fabric touches index line of mirror.

Then the bending length is determined from the scale of template.

At last we calculate the stiffness.

For Shirley stiffness tester,

Bending angle, = 41.50

Actual bending length, c = lf( ) f( ) = 1/3 c = Where, l = projected bending length. = Bending
angle.

Precaution:

 Sample should be cut at (6″×1″).

 Ironing the fabric before the experiment.

 Tip of fabric and scale tip must be equally pushed.

 Mirror observation should be perfect.

 We have to push the fabric until the it touch the mirror line.
  Drape Test:

Principle:

It is the property of a fabric by which fabric tends to hang over.

Drape co-efficient: It is the ratio of the projected area of the draped specimen to its undraped
area, after deduction of the area of the supporting disk. Drape co-efficient, F = Where, As =
Actual projected area of the specimen. Ad = Area of the supporting dick. AD = Area of the
specimen.

Apparatus:

1. Drape tester

2. Scale

3. Scissor Etc.

Fig. : Drape Test

Machine Description: There is a paper ring on the top of the machine. Under the paper ring,
there are two discs. There is a light source on the top side. Under light source, there is a
parabolic mirror in the bottom of the machine. As – Ad AD – Ad

Working procedure:
 In the test a circular specimen is held concentrically between two smaller horizontal discs and
is allowed to drape into folds under its own weight.

A light is shone from underneath the specimen and the shadow that the fabric casts, is traced
onto an annular piece of paper the same size as the unsupported part of the fabric specimen.

The stiffer a fabric is, the larger is the area of its shadow compared with the unsupported area
of the fabric. I

To measure the areas involved, the whole paper ring is weighed and then the shadow part of
the ring is cut away and weighed. I

The paper is assumed to have constant mass per unit area so that the measured mass is
proportional to area. I

The drape coefficient can then be calculated using the following equation.

Precaution:

 Load should be increased gradually.

Air permeability Test:

Principle:

Air permeability is the volume of air measured in cm3 passed per second through 1cm2 of the
fabric at a pressure of 1cm of water.

Apparatus:

1. Stop watch

2. Shirley air permeability tester.

3. Scissor.
4. Iron etc.

Fig; Air permeability tester

Machine description:

In this machine, the air flow at start from the suction pump and by pass valve. Then the air
passes in the reservoir and series valve. The air passes into the rotameter at a certain amount
of air then pass into the sample. A draught gauge is indicating to the amount of air pass in the
specimen. A safety valve is attached with the draught gauge. The sample holder dimension is
5.07cm2 . Air flow range of the rotameter: R1=0.05-0.5cm3 /sec, R2=0.5-3.5cm3 /sec, R3=3-
35cm3 /sec, R4=30-35O

Working procedure
At first we have to collect the sample fabric and cut it according to the dimension of 1inch. Dia.
I
Then the specimen set on the sample holder.
I
Then the suction pump is started.
I
At first R4 is open and other rotameters are closed. If the air flow is less than 30cm3 /sec. R3 is
open and R4 closed. Then indicate the range of air flow from the draught gauge.
I
Then take 5 sample reading and calculate the air permeability of these fabrics.
Precaution:

 Sample should be cut at (1″ dia.).

 Sample should be set on the sample holder correctly.

 During taking measurement excess air should be passed through safety valve.  If the
suction pump air is not enough, the by-pass valve should be opened.

 Flammability Test:

Principle: A flammable fabric is one which propagates flame, i.e. it can continues to burn after
the igniting flame has been removed.

Apparatus:

1. Stop watch

2. Scissor

3. Stop watch

4. Burner

5. Flammability tester etc.

Fig. : Flammability tester.

Machine description:

This machine is fully covered with glass box or transparent plastic. It has a sample rack at 45
degree angle to set the sample for experiment. It also has a burner opposite of sample rack. At
the bottom, automatic timing device is used for time setting. Below the timing device there is a
control panel board.

Working procedure:

1. Sample is taken of (6″×2″)

2. Sample is dried for 30 min. at 105 degree.

3. Then Sample is cooled down& kept it for 15 min.

4. Sample is placed on the sample rack

5. Setting time 1 sec. on the automatic timing device & switched on the machine for burning.

6. Fabric flammability time is measured by stop watch.

7. According to the burning time we select the flam class by the following way: Flammability
classes:

1) class -1 (Normal flammability) Textile which have no unusual burning characteristics

2) class-2 (Intermediate flammability) Textile having flammability characteristics between

normal & “rapid and intense” burning.

3) class-3(rapid and intense burning) Textile considered dangerously flammable and unsuitable
for clothing due to rapid and intense burning.

Precaution:

 Sample should be cut at (6″×2″)

 Length of the flame should be 5/8″

 Selection of class according to burning time should be perfect

  Water Repellency Test:

Principle: The time taken for contact angle to drop to 450 is noted. The reciprocal of the time
taken is called wet ability or wetting velocity.

Apparatus:

1. Stand.

2. Funnel.

3. Spray nozzle.

4. Embroidery hoop.

c.

Fig: Spray tester

Machine description:

A funnel is attached with stand. Funnel contains 250cc water at 780 F temperature. Under the
funnel there is spray nozzle. Fabric is placed under spray nozzle. Fabric is circular in shape. If is
placed on the embroidery hoop at 450 . Embroidery hoop is attached base of the machine.
Working procedure:

1. At first we have to collect the sample fabric.

2. Then the sample fabric is cut which diameter will be 6″.

3. Then the fabric is set with the embroidery hoop.

4. The embroidery hoop is then set with the base at an angle of 450 .

5. The funnel is filled with 250cc water at 700 F temperature and nozzle is opended to enable
spray of water on fabric sample.

6. After the completion of spray the fabric is withdrawn from the embroidery hoop.

7. The excess water on fabric surface is removed by using tissue paper.

8. At last we compare the fabric with AATCC (America Association of textile chemists and
colorists).

Data:

S/n Type of fabric Spray rating

1 100% cotton 0
2 Polyester 0
3 Umbrella 70

Result: 

Water repellency of a 100% cotton fabric is 0.

Water repellency of a polyester fabric is 0.

Water repellency of a umbrella fabric is 70.

Water repellency of a parachute fabric is 100.

Precaution:

 Sample should be cut at 6″

 Embroidery hoop should be set at 450 angles with base of the m/c.

 Abrasion Resistant Test

Principle:

Abrasion is just one aspect of wear and is the rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns
of fabric. The property by which material resist the damage due to the abrasion is called
abrasion resistance

Apparatus:

2. Scissor.

3. Digital weight balance.

4. Martindale abrasion tester

 Fig : Martindale abrasion tester

Machine Description:

The machine has two plates, one is mounted at the bottom and another is on the top. The
upper plate contains 4 abradant at same level. The abradants are made of ceramic. The lower
plate contains 4 sample holder made of steel. The diameter of each holder is 38 mm. It has a
counter with the base to fix the number of cycle of abradant. Pressure of abradant is
550gm/inch2 .

Working Procedure:

1. At first we have to collect the sample.

2. Then the sample is cut according to the dimension of 38mm dia.

3. The weight of sample is measured by digital weight balance.

4. Then the sample is placed on the sample holder.

5. 25 no. of cycles are inputted in the counter and machine is switched on

6. After the completion of required cycle the machine stopped automatically

7. Sample is withdrawn from the sample holder and again weight is taken

8. According to the following formula we can measure wear index. Abrasion Wear index
Abrasion resistance Wear index

Precaution:

 Sample should be cut at 38 mm dia.

 Sample should be placed perfectly on sample holder.

 Weight of fabric before and after the test should be measured accurately.

 Abrasion cycle should be selected according to the quality of fabric.

 Sample should be crease or fold free before experiment.

 Breathability

Breathability of fabric is the ability of a fabric to allow moisture vapor to be transmitted through
the fabric.

 Methods of Breathability Test:

• Upright Cup Method

• Inverted Cup Method

• Sweating Hot Plate

Upright Cup Method

• A desiccant, calcium chloride, is put into a cup. A piece of fabric is then secured over the cup
and placed in a controlled environment. Then after period of time the cup is weighed to see
how much water has been “pulled” into the cup through the fabric. The weight is then
extrapolated to show the number of grams per 24hours per sq meter of fabric that will pass
through the fabric.

Inverted Cup Method

A desiccant, Potassium Acetate, is put into a cup and sealed with a piece of ePTFE . The fabric to
be tested is then placed over the cup with the fabric side to the cup. The cup is then inverted
into a pan of water. Then after period of time the cup is weighed to see how much water has
been “pulled” into the cup through the fabric. The weight is then extrapolated to show the
number of grams per 24hours / per sq. meter of fabric that will pass through the fabric.

Sweating Hot Plate

• In this test, fabric is placed above a porous metal plate. The plate is heated and water is
channeled into the metal plate, simulating perspiration. The plate is then kept at a constant
temperature. As water vapor passes through the plate and the fabric, it causes Evaporative
Heat Loss and therefore more energy is needed to keep the plate at a constant temperature.
Ret is the measurement of the resistance to evaporative heat loss. The lower the Ret value, the
less resistance to moisture transfer and therefore higher breathability

Dimensional stability test

  Shrinkage test

Principle: Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size,
usually through the process of laundry.

Apparatus:

1. Glass plate

2. Scale 3. Scissor etc.

Fig. : glass plate

Machine Description:

Template and shrinkage scale made up of transparent polymer plate to apply standard pressure on test
specimen. The Shrinkage Scale 15" & Template has a fine calibrated marking of 18" x 18" & 10" x 10"
bench-marks. It ensures reading of laundered or dry-cleaned or washed or processed fabric or garment
directly and accurately.

Working Procedure:
The sample which is done shrinkage test, spread on table.
I
Then a glass template put on sample fabric which is square size
I
There are six marks on glass template and distance between two mark is 35 cm’
I
Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable marker. Then sample is sewn by hand sewing
machine. Sample is ready for washing.
I
Simple wash the fabric at 60˚c temp for 90 min. after washing the fabric is taken out.
I
 Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be Line Dry or Flat Dry or Tumble Dry.
I
To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap side and
3 points on Weft Side. I
Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or
Stretch.
Precaution:
 There is no crease or folds in fabric during spreading.
 Glass template put on sample fabric carefully.

Conclusion:

Special fabrics are those textile products generally which are used for important application.
The fashion aspects of textile are ignored here. The performance properties are the main
consideration. So the value of special fabric is use.Special fabric made our life Very comfortabe
and safety.

Reference:

1. http://textilelearner.specialfabric.blogspot.com

2.http//qulitycontroltex.com

3.Principles of Textile Testing by J.E. Booth, B.sc.,F.T.I

4. http://textilequalitytest.blogspot.com

5.www.wikpedia.com

6. Website http://www.technicaltextile.com
7.  https//textilelearner.blogspot.com

8.  Textile Testing by P. ANGAPPAN, B.Tech., M.I.S.T.E.,A.T.A.,M.I.E.. and R. GOPALAKRISHNAN,

M.Tech., M.I.S.T.E.,A.T.A.,M.I.E..
9.  Textileworld.bd

10.http://fabrictestingmethod,com