Indo American Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, 2017 ISSN NO: 2231-6876

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF LIPSTICK USING NATURAL COLORANTS

Rajanigandha N. Chavan, Komal V. Dalvi, Mrs. Manisha S. Karpe, Dr.Vilasrao J. Kadam.
University of Mumbai, Bharati Vidyapeeth’s College of Pharmacy,C.B.D. Belapur, Sector 8,Navi Mumbai- 400614, India.
ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT
Article history Cosmetics have become one of the daily necessities of all groups in society every year ,users
Received 02/02/2017 were introduced to various new cosmetic products of the latest trend .lipstick is one of the
Available online beauty product that commands a unique market .the quality of lipstick is directly link to basic
31/03/2017 material use in the formulation. Natural ingredients based products are getting popular, as a
public concerned toward long term effect of synthetic material in cosmetic formulation
Keywords increased. In this work, natural colorants based lipsticks were produced. This formulation
Manganese, consists of oil mixtures, wax mixtures, bromo mixtures, colours, and other additives. It was
Cadmium. prepared with beet root powder and natural food colour which gives pink colour as well as
combination of cocoa powder, coffee and cinnamon gives chocolate brown colour. The
lipstick were use previously contains organic colours which contain may harmful agents like
lead, manganese, cadmium, etc. which are carcinogenic in nature and may leads to many side
effects . By comparing both the combination one of the combination is better than other on
the basis of appearance, colour, softening point and spreadability.

Corresponding author
Rajanigandha N Chavan
Bharati Vidyapeeth’s College of Pharmacy,
C.B.D. Belapur, Sector 8,
Navi Mumbai.
7977860294
rajanigandhac@yahoo.com

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Please cite this article in press as Rajanigandha N Chavan et al. Formulation and Evaluation of Lipstick Using Natural
Colorants. Indo American Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.2017:7(03).

Copy right © 2017 This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Indo American journal of Pharmaceutical
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Research, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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Vol 7, Issue 03, 2017. Rajanigandha N Chavan et al. ISSN NO: 2231-6876

INTRODUCTION:
WHAT IS LIPSTICK..???
Lipstick is the cosmetic product containing pigments, oil waxes and emollients that apply colour, texture and protection of
the lips.As we have seen synthetic colours are harmful and they may lead to various side effects like carcinogenicity. To prevent this
harmful side effect we are tending towards more usage of natural colorants. There is following incidences/campaigns/research
papers/test which shows adverse side effect of synthetic colorants in lipstick.
Every day millions of women apply lipstick without a second thought. What many don't know is that lipsticks may contain lead, the
notorious metal that can cause learning, language and behavioural problems. Lead is a neurotoxin and can be dangerous even at small
doses. Not all lipsticks contain lead, but a number of studies in recent years show that the metal is more prevalent than previously
thought.

History
Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago. They crushed
gemstones and used them to decorate their faces, mainly on the lips and around the eyes. Also Egyptians like Cleopatra crushed bugs
to create a colour of red on their lips. Also around 3000 BC to 1500 BC, women in the ancient Indus Valley Civilization applied red
tinted lipstick to their lips for face decoration. Ancient Egyptians wore lipstick to show social status rather than gender. They extracted
the red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine, and some bromine mannite, but this dye resulted in serious illness. Lipsticks with
shimmering effects were initially made using a pearlescent substance found in fish scales.
In the 19th century, lipstick was colored with carmine dye. Carmine dye was extracted from cochineal, scale insects native to
Mexico and Central America which live on cactus plants. Cochineal insects produce carminic acid to deter predation by other insects.
Carminic acid, which forms 17% to 24% of the weight of the dried insects, can be extracted from the insect's body and eggs.
This lipstick did not come in a tube; it was applied with a brush. Carmine dye was expensive and the look of carmine colored
lipstick was considered unnatural and theatrical, so lipstick was frowned upon for everyday wear. Only actors and actresses could get
away with wearing lipstick. In 1880, few stage actresses wore lipstick in public.
Lipsticks are also term as lips cosmetics are widely used by woman. Lipstick have become so popular in the last couple of decades
that they are now probably used more than any other single cosmetic product, its popularly can be gauged from the fact that market
has been flooded with plenty of product with hundreds of sheds.
In this mini research project we are performing comparative study between lipstick and lip balm using natural colorants. Now
days many brands has come up with lead free lipstick (e.g. Dior, Avon, MAC, Revelon, Tarte etc.) Natural colours are easily available
with no side effect. In comparison with organic colours, they are more preferable and safe for use.

Ideal properties of lipstick are as follows:

 Smooth and easy to apply.
 High retention of colour intensity.
 Free from grittiness and bloom and should be non-drying.
 Required Plasticity.
 Innocuous externally as well as internally.
 Good degree of indelibility.
 Pleasant odour and flavour.
 Shiny appearance on storage.
 Remain firm on storage

MATERIALS AND METHOD:

MATERIAL
Carnauba wax, ozokerite wax, Lanolin, Cetyl alcohol, Bess wax, and castor oil were purchased from S.D. Fine chemicals
limited. All chemicals used for analysis were of analytical grade.

Formulation of lipstick:
-Wax mixtures:
Are basically important as desired melting point, viscosity and other physical properties are achieved with different waxes.
Example: hard paraffin, soft paraffin, white beeswax, cetyl alcohol, ozokerite wax, lanolin etc.

-Oil mixtures:
Act as dispersing agents for insoluble pigments. Castor oil is commonly used. Other examples are liquid paraffin-gives
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glossy appearance, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol.

-Bromo mixtures:
Bromo acids dissolved in polyols like propylene glycol (400, 1500, 4000), benzyl alcohol, butylene glycol, oleyl alcohol,
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butyl stearate, etc..

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-Colorants:
used are obtained from natural source:--Titanium dioxide is used to modify shade of basic pigment.

Additives include:
A Antioxidants:
Butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), butylated hydroxy anisole (BHA), propyl gallate, citric acid etc.

b. Preservatives:
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate

c. Flavours:
Should not be irritating and toxic, should have good taste and should be able to mask the fatty odour of the base

Manufacturing of lipsticks:
Involves 4 distinct operations:
1) Colour dispersion
2) Mixing
3) Moulding
4) Flaming.

Colour dispersion
 Agglomerates of colour pigments broken down and mixed with oil.
 If a solvent is used for the preparation of solution of bromo acids, it is prepared and set aside.
 Lake colours when used are dispersed in suitable amount of oil to make a paste. This paste can be passed through triple roller
mills.
 The colour mix is then mixed with bromo acid mixture.
 Lower melting point waxes melted and added to the colour mix. Then additives are dissolved in remaining oil and mixed.
 But higher melting point waxes are melted at the end.
 The mixture should be finally milled
Triple roller mill is used for colour dispersion

Figure: 1(A) Triple roller mill. Figure:1(B) Triple roller mill (side view)

Mixing
 After milling, the material is transferred to a steam-jacketed kettle and is heated.
 Over-heating and rapid mixing should be avoided.
 After the mixture is melted completely and blended, perfume is added and blended thoroughly.
 Next the molten mixture is strained through fine mesh screen and transferred to moulds or storage containers.
 If the material is to be stored for a longer period, storage containers should be inert
 SS steam jacketed kettle is used for mixing
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Figure:2: Stainless steel steam jacketed kettle.

Moulding:
 For moulding, operation moulds are used.
 Moulds are made up of metals like brass, aluminium.
 Molten lipstick mixture is run on the seat of the mould and the speed of pouring should be appropriate.
 The moulds are allowed to stand without movement until surplus material has congealed over the surface
 The surplus material is then scraped off and moulds are transferred to chilled metallic plates.
 Over-cooling should be avoided.
 Then moulds are unclamped and lipsticks are pushed out.
 When large production is required, semi-automatic or automatic moulding machines are used for this operation

Figure:3(A)-Filling of moulds Figure:3(B):lipsticks ready to place Figure:3(C)- Lipsticks

in container

Flaming:
 The sticks are inserted in lipstick containers and the free end is reheated for a very short time.
 This makes the surface of the stick smooth and glossy.
 This process is usually done by passing the lipstick through gas flame.
 Finally the stick and containers are examined for visual defects

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Figure:4-lipstick after flaming process and burner used.

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Table number. :1 formula table:

Sr. no. Ingredients Quantity given Quantity taken for 3 lipsticks (15 gm.) Activity
1. Carnauba wax 3% 0.45gm Waxes
2. Ozokerite wax 8% 1.2gm Waxes
3. Beeswax 8% 1.2gm Film former
4. Lanoline 10% 1.5gm Emollient
5. Castor oil 65% 9.75ml Plasticizer
6. Cetyl alcohol 5% 0.75ml Emollient
7. Natural colour q.s. q. s Colorant
8. Titanium dioxide 3% q. s Covering agent
9. Perfume q. s q. s Fragrance
10. Preservative 0.05% 0.000075gm Preservative

Procedure:
Clean lipstick mould was taken, lubrication is done with soap solution and excess lubricant was drained and it was kept
inverted in fridge or on ice (for half an hour).Colour and titanium dioxide were mixed in glass mortar and pestle and they were passed
through 100 mesh. Colour mixture was placed in small beaker and levigated with part of castor oil. In big beaker waxes, lanolin and
remaining castor oil were taken. Colour phase and oil phase were heated to same temperature. Then oil phase was added to colour
phase with stirring. Overfilling of the mould was done with melted mass. It was allowed to settle. Lipstick was passed through flame.
The base was trimmed and lipsticks were packed in a holder.

EVALUATION TEST:
The basic requirements for a good lipstick are:
1) The lipstick shall be firm but not brittle in texture.
2) It shall have an attractive appearance, pleasant taste and feel on the lips and shall be reasonably free from sweating, bloom and
rancidity.

Tests:
1) Appearance: it should be attractive
2) Softening point: Methods for evaluation of lipstick

Apparatus used:
 Flat bottom tube: 12cm long and 2.5 cm in diameter
 Thermometer: accurate to 0.1 C.

Figure:5 (A)-Beaker with thermometer inserted. Figure:5(B) Flat bottom tube.

Procedure:
 Place the lipstick with protruded salve in the flat bottom tube. Fix the thermometer through a cork in such a way that the bulb of
the thermometer just touches the lipstick salve. Insert this arrangement into a 1litre beaker filled with water to a level 1cm above
the upper tip of the lipstick salve. Slowly heat the water while stirring so that temperature rises at a rate not exceeding 2°C per
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min.
 When the temperature reaches about 45°C, raise the temperature at the rate of 1° C per min. Constantly watch the lipstick salve.
 Record the temperature when the salve starts bending and loosing its shape
 Colour: In this colour imparting on the lip surface is observed
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 Film: Type of film formed is observed

 Spread ability: spread ability of formulation is observed.

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RESULT
Lipstick made up of beet root and natural food colour (A) is more better then cocoa powder, coffee and cinnamon(B) on the
basis of Appearance, even colour dispersion, film, colour, spread ability and hardness

Table number: 2.

Test Observation for combination of beet root Observation for combination of cocoa
and natural food colour (A) powder, coffee and cinnamon(B)
Appearance Reddish pink Chocolate brown
Softening point 56 degree 52 degree
Colour Pink Dark brown
Film Greasy Greasy
Spread ability Easily spreadable as compare to B Not easily spreadable as compare to A

Author’s statement:
The authors declarers no conflict of interest.

REFFRENCES
1) Harry’s Cosmeticology edited by J.B.Wilkinson and R.J.Moore, Longman and Technical Publishers ,(543-558)
2) Cosmetics – formulation, manufacturing and QC by P.P.Sharma, 5 th edition, Vandana publication Delhi,(297)
3) Pharmacognosy and phytochemistry , volume 2 –by Vinod D. Rangari , Carrier publications ,(138)
4) Textbook of cosmetics, Rajesh Kumar Nema, Kamlesh Rathore, Bal Krishna Dube, CBS publishers and distributors, (69)
5) Easy. bird.in
6) Handbook of Cosmetic science and technology,edited by Andreo Barrel ,Marc Paye ,Howard I. Maibach ,Marcel Dekker,
Inc.(680-681,770-772)
7) BIS guidelines for lipsticks.
8) COSMETICS: SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, second edition, Volume I by Marvin S.Balsam and Edward Sagrin. Chapter 12,
Lipsticks by Paul. G.I. Lauffer. (365-375).WILEY-INTERSCIENCE.
9) COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY by Sanju Nanda, Arun Nanda ,Roop K .Khar,(70-77)
10) HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS by B.M.Mitthal and R.N.Saha, (39-50), by Vallabh Prakashan.
11) The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics Volume II Formulating- Edited by Mitchell L. Schlossman, Chapter 22 by
Geoffrey Finkenaur,(629-657) ,Allured Publishing Corporation.

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