Textile Vocabulary

Ch. 7-11
Word Definition
CH 7
Brushed tricot Fancy tricot with brush finish.
Course The horizontal row of stitches.
Double filling Made from two beds of needles.
Double knit Made from two beds of needles.
Fake fur Ground yarns that form the base structure and a surface
pile of fiber.
Fancy double knits Almost limitless design possibilities.
Fashioning Flatbed knitting machine to knit and ahpe parts like
armholes, neckline, curves, etc.
Filling or weft knitting Yarns move horizontally.
Fleece Brush very low twist on technical back.
Float stitch Create a fancy knit with a pattern.
French terry Stable, durable weft inserted jersey.
Gauge The number of needles used in fabric knitting.
Intarsia Most complex.
Interlock knits Two sides of fabric look alike the single jersey.
Jacquard double knit Almost limitless design possibilities.
Jacquard jersey Simplest knit fancy patterned fabric.
Jersey The simplest filling-knit
Knits Yarns that interloop unlike woven fabric interlocking.
Knit stitch The very first stitch.
Knit terrycloth Loop pile fancy fabric.
Knitting One or more sets of yarns Interloping each other.
Lace Delicate, lightweight, patterned, complex.
Narrow knit fabrics Fewer needles compared to filling or warp knits.
Pile Jersey Fancy knit with pile of yarn loops.
Power net Good for foundation on garment or swimsuit
Purl knit Slowest form of knitting.
Purl stitch Forms fabric with both sides identically.
Raschel knit Warp knits made with heavier yarns and more design and
open area.
Rib knit Lengthwise ridges form on both sides on the fabric.
Run When a whale column collapses due to stress.
Satin tricot Long float on the back where enhances the luster
Single-filling knit Create by One set of needle on machines.
Stitch Needles manipulate the yarns to form a stitch or loop.
Stockinette Heavier and made with coarser spun yarns.
Thermal cloth Good at trapping body heat.
Tricot Made from tricot machine.
Tuck stitch Fancy knit with pattern in fabric.
Tulle Hexagonal net used for veiling and apparel.
Velour Cut-pile fancy fabric used in casual wear.
Wale The vertical column of knit stitches.
Warp- and weft-insertion knit Similar to woven but less expensive and wider.
Weft- insertion jersey Reduce crosswise stretch.
Warp- insertion warp knit Caught in a vertical pillar of stitch.
Warp knitting Machine process only.
Warp- knit velour Fibers raised from the surface
Weft-insertion warp knit Lightweight good strength and comfort.
CH 8
Batting Made from new fiber
Braid 2D or 3D narrow fabric that interlace lengthwise or
diagonally.
Coated fabric Combine film to other textile fabric
Down Duck or geese’s fine under-feathers in bulk.
Dressing Prevent the skins from decaying. Keep them soft and
pliable.
Expanded film Soft, thick, and spongy due to air pockets.
Felt Wool or wool blend fiber interlocking it’s scales through
heat, moist, and pressure.
Fiberfill Manufactured stable fiber.
Film Thin layer of material made from manufacturer material
Foam Films with air incorporated.
Full-grain leather Holds all the spilt or layers of the original leather.
Fur The animal skin with its own hair, fleece, or fiber still
attached.
Gauge The distance between tufted needles.
Grain The animal marking appeal on skin.
Grain-suede leather Sanded on grain side to produce velvety hand.
Knit-through fabric Knitting yarn through a nonwoven fabric.
Lace Interlaced difficult design into mesh background.
Laminate Combining two different fabrics into one by adhesive or
foam.
Leather Treated skins that’s flexible and durable, come from the skin
or hide of animal of all sorts.
Netlike structure Include extruded networks of fiber strands.
Nonwoven fabric Webs and bonded to form a stable fabric.
Plain film Stiff, cheap, dense, uniform, and impermeable to air and
 water.
Quilted fabric Combing (usually/at least)three layers of fabric, that’s
include: fashion fabric, fiberfill, and backing fabric.
Shearling Made from lamb’s leather side (and make suede), fur side
for lining or insulation.
Shifting resistance It helps keep the uniform of the fabric thickness.
Split leather Looser and more porous leather. Most of them will turn into
suede.
Suede The dull, soft side of leather developed from sanding the
flesh side of skin or on spilt skin.
Tanning A treatment on skins with chemical to make leather pliable
and resistant to water and rot.
Top grain Highest quality of leather. The top layer of leather. Has the
animal grain on its surface.
Tuft density The number of density on tuft fabric.
Tufted fabric Stitches pile yarns into a base fabric to make denser and
thicker result.
Wadding Made from waste fiber
Ch9
Abrasive wash It alter and damage the surface to a degree for the look.
Aesthetic finish Change appearance and hands of fabric.
Ajoure Add on a base structure and dissolving the base structure to
create a stable, open work finish.
Ammonia finish A cheaper alternative of mercerization. Less luster.
Anti-slip finish Prevent yarn movement by bonding yarns to the base.
Antistatic finish Reduce the cling between fabric and machinery in factory
Applied design To alter visual textural, hand, or other component of fabric.
Bio polishing Use enzyme to remove fuzzy things on the surface of fabric.
Bio scouring Use enzyme to remove soil or dirt to prepare for finishing or
dyeing.
Bleaching Remove irregular color by bleach to uniform the color.
Boil off To remove the sericin of silk.
Brushed Remove fiber ends after shearing.
Burned out Burned out any natural fibers by printing a solvent on fabric.
Calendaring Go through series of rollers with heat and pressure to
flatten or smooth out fabrics.
Carbonizing Use hot acid to destroy cellulosic fibers on all kinds of wool.
Chemical wash Use chemical to destroy partially the fibers and create
irregularities on surface.
Cire fabric Surface melted and smoothen by hot metal roller on
synthetic fabrics.
Coating Changes the appearance of fabric, lock the yarns, or
decrease air and water permeability
Converted or finished goods Have been finished.
Durable finish Life for the life time of the fabric but decrease the
effectiveness with age.
Durable press The garments that will retain their shapes and wrinkle free
uses after uses.
Embossed cotton Example of embossed finish, which can be flat or pile
fabrics.
Embossed finish Create raised and flat design on fabric
Embroidered Decorative stitches on surface of fabric.
Eyelet Small round holes cut in plain-weave fabric.
Fabric softeners Soften fabric
Finish A process or treatment to fabric, yarn, or fabric to change
the look, performance, and hand.
Flame-retardant finish Resist ignition, burn slowly, and self-extinguish
Flannel Plain or twill weave with worsted or woolen yarns.
Flannelette Cotton fabric with short nap on one side-only
Fleece Example of napped finish
Flocked Based fabric add adhesive and add short fibers on top to
glue on to add texture and look.
Fiulled A mild felting for wool fabric to improve the look, hand, and
texture.
Fume-fading-resistant finish Used on fabric that are susceptible to fading when exposed
to atmospheric fumes or pollutants.
Glazed chintz Plain weave, light weight fabric
Glazed finish To smooth and polish the surface of fabrics through higher
speed roller and normal speed roller.
Gray goods Fabric has no finish.
Heat setting Use on synthetic fibers or blends to tentered.
Insect- and moth- control Prevent and drive insect/moth away from damage the fabric
finish
Light-reflecting finish Increase visibility of wearer in low-light condition
Light stabilizing finish Minimal damage from light exposure.
Mercerization A treatment for cellulosic fabric to strengthen and more
luster (shine).
Microencapsulated finish Very tiny capsule form that are smart textile
Minimum Buying the shortest yardage from a mill
Moire finish Create wood grain or watermarked effect of surface of
fabric.
Moire taffeta Ribbed fabrics for apparel, upholstery.
Moisture-management finish Helps remove sweat from skin and keep body cool
Mold- and mildew control Prevent mold and mildew from fabric
finish
Napped Raising fiber ends from the ground weave of fabric.
Optical brighteners They mask yellow, instead of removing it, to whiten the
fabric.
Organdy Acid applied all over the fabric.
Outing flannel Napped on both side and similar to flannelette.
Parchmentized Become transparent with sulfuric acid.
Permanent finish Last with the life time of the fabric.
Phase-change finish Minimizes heat flow through fabric
Pleating High variation of embossing that add pleats to fabric.
Plisse Printing caustic soda on fabric in a stripes pattern.
Polished cotton Plain weave, light weight fabric
Progressive shrinkage Continuation of shrinkage through washes of the garment.
Relaxation shrinkage The shrinkage from the first wash of the garment
Renewable finish Can re-apply the finish by customer or dry cleaner.
Rot-proof finish Prevent rot and increase durability on outdoor items.
Run The length of fabric processed at one time.
Schreiner finish Presses in hundreds of fine lines on yarn surface for soft
luster look.
Scouring Remove soil or dirt to prepare for finishing or dyeing.
Sculptured velvet Shear in pattern to create short and tall pile carpet.
Sheared Control the length of pile or napped fabric but cutting the
surface uniformly.
Shrinkage More frequent and serious problem than stretch.
Shrinkage-control finish Help maintain the garment’s original sizes and shapes.
Singeing Burn the extra or foreign material from the surface of the
fabric.
Sizing Add stiffness, weight, and body to fabric.
Special-purpose finish To enhance performance for specific end use with applying
chemical.
Stain-release finish Make removal stain easier
Sueded Abrading the surface to create better hand, comfort, and
absorbency for dye.
Surface design Applied onto fabric’s surface
Temporary finish Last until wash or dry cleaned.
Tentering Strengthen all grains, all ways.
Ultraviolet-absorbent finish Absorbs ultraviolet energy
Velour Example of napped finish
Water-absorbent finish Increase the water absorbency of fabric
Waterproof fabric Filmed or coated fabric that will not wet whatsoever.
Water-repellent finish Resist wetting

CH 10
Batik Apply hot wax onto fabric surface to resist dye on those
waxed area.
Bezold effect Mix two or more colors to new color.
Bleeding Color loss in water
Colorant Dyes or pigment that add color to fabric
Coloration The process of adding color
Colorfast Dye or print that do not fade or change color
Color match The objects look to have the same color.
Colorways Different color option available for print
Crocking Color transfer to another surface due to rubbing
Cross dyeing Piece dyeing contain two or more generic fibers.
Digital print Printed with tiny nozzles for precise points
Discharge print Color is removed from piece dyed fabric
Duplex print Roller print with both sides of fabric
Dye Compound that adds color to material.
Fading Due to sunlight, air pollution and loss of color
Fast Dye or print that do not fade or change color
Fiber dyeing Tone to tone or heather look.
Frosting When fibers are abraded
Garment dyeing Dye a finished piece or object
Heat transfer print Print or design transfer from one to another by heat
Ikat Yarns are tie, dyed, then woven. Very involved.
Ink Paste form of pigment
Level Same hue, value, and intensity in all area.
Mass pigmentation Color are add to solution when synthetic fiber were made
Metamerism The different colors with different light source from store to
home
Migration Color moves to surrounding area
Off-grain print Printed on off grain thus you cannot get the right print while
cutting on grain
Out of register Defect of printing that overlapped or do not touch
Piece dyeing A bulk of fabric dye to a color
Pigment Insoluble color particle that bound the surface of textile
Printing Add color on surface of an area
Product dyeing Dye a finished piece or object
Resist dyeing Treated in a way that certain area will not absorb dye color
Roller print Small and repeatable print on roller
Screen print Print on mesh screen in designed area
Solution dyeing Color are added to solution when synthetic fiber was made
Tender Caused by bleach that weaken the fabric
Tie-dye Hand process on fabric that some areas are wrapped to
resist dye
Union dyeing Make natural and synthetic fibers into the same solid color
Warp print Warp yarns are printed before weaving
yarn dyeing Add dye in yarns in package or large quantity
Ch 11
Absorbent powder cleaning Powder cleaning or aka dry extraction cleaning
Care The procedures to remove soil of product and return to its
original state
Detergent Synthetic compound that remove soil
Dry cleaning Non-water solvents that remove soil.
Dry-foam cleaning Hand sprayed foam or machine-deposited foam
Hot water extraction Fine spray of hot water detergent
Laundry The process of washing apparel with washer and dryer
Organic solvent To dissolve oil, grease. Or other stains in water-based
system.
Professional wet cleaning Steam cleaning, spot removing, or hand washing.
Soap Made from natural oil from animal or vegetable.
Soil Any foreign material that doesn’t belong on a textile
Solvent Liquid that dissolves other material
Vacuuming Suction to pull soil out
Water Most common solvent
Wet cleaning Shampooing that’s water-based detergent in foam form.