Instructor Subject Code Schedule
Mary Cris J. Gemoros HEE 318,HEE 319 M: 7:30A.M-9:30A.M
T:1:00 P.M -6:00PM
W: 9:00 pm- 11:00 am
1:00 pm – 6:00 pm
TH: 10:00 AM -12:00PM
1:00 PM -6:00 PM
F: 1:00PM – 6:00 PM
Subject Title: DRESSMAKING
Module 7
INTRODUCTION
The previous module discussed the
different Hand stiches and Machine stiches and
Seams,Reducing seam bulk,Darts,Gathers; this
module we will continue the topic under the
General Techniques in Dressmaking. You are going
to Discuss the different types of interfacing,
facing,collars,waistbands,sleeves,Pockets,
Hemlines, Zippers and what are their functions in
our subject.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1.Identify the Diffent types of interfacing, Facing, Collars, waistbands, sleeves,
pocket,Hemlines and zippers.
2. Discuss the different uses of the continuation of General techniques in
Dressmaking
TOPIC DISCUSSION
Interfacings. A moderately stiff material, especially buckram, typically used between two layers
of fabric in collars and facings.An interfacing may be non-fusible (sew-in) or fusible and is only attached
to certain parts of a garment. Parts that are normally interfaced include the collar and cuffs and the
facings.
Two main types of Interfacing:
1. Fusible Interfacing
This type of interfacing is the easiest to use as it only needs to
be heated up with the iron and it will permanently stick to the
fabric.
2. Sew-In Interfacing
This type of interfacing is ideal when you have a fabric that
cannot be ironed or has texture.
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Three main weaves interfacing
Non-woven. This type of interfacing is more like paper. It is made by bonding
fibres together which gives it a very thin feel. It has no grain, can be cut any
direction and won’t fray. This is often the simplest material to use and is suitable
for most garments
Woven. This type of interfacing looks like regular woven fabric which feels,
looks, and moves like fabric - albeit a thicker one.
Knit. It is produced by knitting the fibres together, which allows you to maintain
the stretchiness of your garment.
Facings. The simplest way to finish the neck or armhole of a garment is to apply a facing. The
neckline can be any shape to have a facing applied, from a curve to a square. Some facings and
necklines can add interest to the center back or center front of a garment.
APPLYING INTERFACING TO A FACING
Collars
All collars consist of a minimum of two pieces, the upper collar
(which will be on the outside) and the under collar. Interfacing, which
is required to give the collar shape and structure, is often applied to the
upper collar to give a smoother appearance to the fabric
Waistbands
A waistband is designed to fit snugly but not
tightly to the waist. Whether it is shaped,
straight, or slightly curved, it will be
constructed and attached in a similar way.
Every waistband will require a fusible
interfacing to give it structure and support.
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SLEEVES
Sleeves come in all shapes and lengths and form an
important part of the design of a garment. A set-in
sleeve should always hang from the end of the wearer’s
shoulder, without wrinkles. The lower end of the sleeve
is normally finished by means of a cuff or a facing.
POCKETS
Pockets come in lots of shapes and formats. Some, such as patch
pockets, are external and can be decorative, while others,
including front hip pockets, are more discreet and hidden from
view. You can also have a pocket flap that is purely decorative.
This can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a
contrasting fabric. Whether casual or tailored, all pockets are
functional.
Hemlines (sidsid)
The lower edge of a garment is normally finished with a hem. Sometimes the style of the
garment dictates the type of hem used, and sometimes the fabric.
MARKING A HEMLINE
On a garment such as a skirt or a dress it is important that the hemline is level all around.
Even if the fabric has been cut straight, some styles of skirt—such as A-line or circular— will
“drop,” which means that the hem edge is longer in some places. This is because the fabric can
stretch where it is not on the straight of the grain. Hang the garment for 24 hours in a warm room
before hemming so you do not end up with an uneven hem.
Zippers
The zipper is probably the most used of all fastenings.
There are a great many types available, in a variety of
lengths, colors, and materials, but they all fall into one of
five categories: skirt or pant zippers, metal or jeans
zippers, invisible zippers, open-ended zippers, and
decorative zippers
Buttons
Buttons are one of the oldest forms of fastenings. They
come in many shapes and sizes and can be made from a
variety of materials including shell, bone, plastic, nylon, and
metal. Buttons are sewn to the fabric either through holes on
their face, or through a hole in a stalk called a shank, which
is on the back. Buttons are normally sewn on by hand,
although a two-hole button can be sewn on by machine.
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Hooks and Eyes and Snaps
There are many alternative ways to fasten a garment. The different hooks and eyes are normally
used to finish the top end of a zipper to help prevent it from pulling open, but a row of hooks and
eyes can also be used on its own as a decorative way of closing and opening a garment. Snap
fasteners are good for children’s clothing and uniforms, since they are easy to use. They also
feature commonly on lightweight jackets, cardigans, and fleece jackets
LEARNING RESOURCES
. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVccaSbJjBs(Type
s of Facing)
https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C234/welcome.html(D
ifferent types of Waistbands)
SUMMARY
In General Techniques you learned many things; especially on their uses when you do the
output such as skirt, blouse, and trouser. What is in this module can help you to understand the
importance in each part.
Interfacing.It is an additional layer applied to the inside of garments or other sewing projects, in
certain areas only, to add firmness, shape, structure, and support to areas such as collars, cuffs,
waistbands and pockets; and to stabilise areas such as shoulder seams or necklines, which might
otherwise hang limply.
Two types of Interfacing are: 1. Fusible Interfacing 2. Sew-In Interfacing
Three main weaves interfacing are: Woven, non woven and knit
Facing. The advantage of using facing to finish the edges is that, the raw edges of the fabric will be well
hidden inside the fold of the facing.
Waistband. Can do multiple duties in a garment. Other than just holding up a skirt or a pant, or
serving as place holders of accessories like bows, they are also eye stoppers – they bring the eyes
to the leanest part of your torso.
REFERENCES
https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/blogs/news/a-guide-to-interfacing-fabric
https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C234/welcome.html
https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/introduction-to-interfacing/
https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-facings/
the complete step-by step guide to making your own clothes (Alison Smith)
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