7

Finishes

7.1 Introduction
When we go to the market to buy a fabric, we buy the material after a lot of question-
ing. Isn’t it? We ask whether it is colour fast, will the fabric shrink after washing? Do
you have a thicker and stiffer fabric? The salesman replies at once, “No, It is a good
quality fabric, as it is ‘colour fast’ or ‘wrinkle free’. These terms are often given on the
lable of the fabric too, but most of the time it does not make much sense to you as a
consumer.
So the question arises, what exactly do these terms mean? Are they printed on the
fabric only to fool the consumer or do they have some relevance?
These terms refer to the ‘finishes’ applied on the fabric. But what is a finish? Why do
we apply them on the fabrics?
Let us find out answers to these questions in detail.

7.2 Objectives
After reading this lesson you will be able to:
z explain the meaning of finish;
z explain the necessity of applying finishes;
z classify finishes as basic or special;
z explain the procedure for application of some finishes like cleaning, bleaching,
stiffening, mercerisation, shrinkage control, water-proofing, etc.
z finish the fabric with colour and create designs;
z classify the various dyes available.
96 :: Home Science

7.3 What is a Finish?

A finish is anything that is done to a fabric after weaving or knitting to change the
appearance (what you see), the hand (what you feel) and the performance (what the
fabric does).
Have you ever seen a fabric that comes from a weaver? It is generally rough to feel,
dirty, with stains on it and is known as ‘gray cloth’. But when we buy a fabric from a
shop it is smooth, neat and clean.
What happens in between? Yes, a finish has been applied.
So we understand that ‘FINISH’ is a process which is applied to a fabric to improve
its properties and its and use. When a finish is applied, say on cotton, it might become
more shiny (lustrous), stronger or resist shrinking on washing. Similarly, a finish may be
applied to some other fabric to make it waterproof so that it can be used to make
raincoats or umbrella cloth.

7.4 Classification of finishes

Finishes are given to improve the serviceability and appearance of a fabric. Now, you
will learn about the most common finishing processes.
Fabrics may be given more than one finish to get the desired effect.
2. Finishes can be classified as:
(a) Basic finishes, and (b) Special finishes
Basic finishes are applied to almost all fabrics to improve their appearance.
Special finishes are applied with a specific purpose for which it is to be used.
FINISHES

Basic Special Finishing with colour

e.g Scouring e.g Mercerisation e.g Dyeing
Bleaching Shrinkage control Printing
Stiffening Water proofing
Calendering/Ironing
We come across the problem of the fabric losing its stiffness after washing, or the fabric
crushing badly after wearing. So we starch the fabric and iron it after every wash.
These are called temperory finishes. But some finishes stay on the fabric for its entire
life. They are not affected by washing, dry, cleaning or ironing. These finishes are called
permanent finishes. They can not be applied at home.
7.5 Some Common Finishes
Let us now discuss the basic characteristics of different finishes that can be applied on
a fabric.
 Finishes :: 97

A. Basic Finishes
i) Scouring/Cleaning
Fabrics require scouring or cleaning to remove oil spots, dirt stains acquired during
construction. Complete removal of these impurities is important before applying any
other finish. Cleaning is not only done with soap solutions but is also aided by various
chemicals. After cleaning, the fabric becomes smooth, neat and more absorbent.
ii) Bleaching
When the fabrics are made, they are not white in colour. To make them white or to dye
them in light colours they are bleached. Suitable bleaching agents are used to remove
the colour from the fabric. Bleaching is done for cottons, woollens and silks. Man-
made fabrics do not need bleaching as they are naturally white. Can you recall some
man-made fabrics?
Bleaching has to be done very carefully as the chemical which can destroy the colour
may also damage the fabric to some extent. Hydrogen peroxide is a bleach which can
be applied to all kinds of fabrics.
iii) Stiffening
To make a fabric stiff, a finish has to be applied. How do you stiffen your cotton clothes
at home? Do you use maida starch or rice water? This process of stiffening is a finish
done for cottons, mainly by using starch and for silk by gum. Stiffening gives body,
smoothness and lusture to the fabric.
Sometimes when you go to the market and you rub the fabric between your hand,
some white powder comes out. It is because the fabric has been overstarched to make
the fabric look better.
Take a starched fabric and rub it against your fingers. Then hold it against a light bulb,
the weave will look more open in that area, because the starch has been removed.
iv) Calendering
It is an ironing process. Creases are pressed out by passing the fabric between the
steam heated rollers. This flathens the fabric and increases smoothness and shine.
(B) Special finishes
(i) Mercerisation
Before dyeing and printing, cotton is a dull fabric which wrinkles easily. When it is
mercerised by using chemicals, it becomes strong, shinning and dyes well as it is now
more absorbent. This is a permanent finish. This finish is applied with an alkali (sodium
hydroxide) under controlled conditions. Nowadays, this finish has becomes almost a
routine finish for cottons.
98 :: Home Science

(ii) Shrinkage control

What happens when your new shirt becomes smaller after washing? It becomes unfit
for wearing. Reduction in size of a fabric after it is washed is known as shrinkage.
If the label on the fabric reads ‘sanforised’ then it means the fabric has received a
shrinkage control finish and will not shrink on washing. If this finish is not given to the
fabric, you may shrink the fabric yourself at home. You probably do it yourself at
home. You soak the saree fall in the water before putting it on the Saree or soak the
cloth before getting a dress made out of it. For this, while purchasing the fabric, buy
some extra amount. Soak the fabric overnight, squeeze it and dry it. The garment made
from this fabric will not shrink further on washing.
ACTIVITY
Find a new (unwashed) Khadi cloth. Cut a 15 cm square piece. Wash the cloth and
dry it flat without stretching. Measure the dry cloth. Find the difference in size, if any.
(iii) Waterproofing
Fabrics to be used for raincoats, umbrellas and tarpaulins have to be treated with
chemicals or coated with rubber so that water will not pass through them. The finish is
called waterproofing. This is a permanent finish.
Market Survey
Visit a large retail store in your town. Collect the names of five different finishes by
noting the labels.

INTEXT QUESTIONS 7.1

1. Match Column A with Column B:
A B
a) Bleaching 1. Straightens the fabric
b) Cleaning 2. Stiffens the fabric
c) Stiffening 3. Produces a white fabric
d) Mercerising 4. Removes dirt and stains from fabrics.
5. Makes the fabric more lusturous,
smooth and strong.
2. Tick mark the correct answer.
(i) Fabrics are made white by
(a) cleaning
(b) bleaching
(c) stiffening
 Finishes :: 99

(d) mercerising
(ii) Silk is stiffened by
(a) starch
(b) resin
(c) gum
(d) none of the above
(iii) Smooth, shiny and stronger cotton is received by
(a) bleaching
(b) mercerising
(c) cleaning
(d) scouring
(iv) Decrease in size of fabric is called
(a) sizing
(b) shrinkage
(c) mercerisation
(d) desizing
2. Fill in the blanks:
a) Mercerisation is a ................. finish. (Temporary/Permanent)
b) Shrinkage control is called ___________

7.6 Dyeing
(i) Dyeing and Printing
In the market, you don’t find only white fabrics. Fabrics are sold in plain colours or
colourful designs, i.e., they have been dyed or printed respectively. While dyeing, the
fabric is dipped in a solution of dye, whereas printing is application of the paste form of
dye at specified areas to create a design. It is very important for the dyed and printed
fabric to be ‘colourfast’; otherwise while using it the colour might run on washing,
rubbing or ironing.
Textiles may be dyed during the fibre, yarn or fabric stage, depending upon the colour
effects desired and perhaps on quality or end use of the fabric. Dyeing and printing of
fabrics are usually done after routine or basic finishes but prior to others.
But the questions arises - why do we dye fabrics? It is mainly done to:
100 :: Home Science

z Give colour to the fabric;

z Improve the looks of the fabric.
While dyeing fabrics in different colours one thing which is very important is the
colourfastness. You know that when the colour fades or streaks, the items are dis-
carded before they are worn out. (Denim is an exception - we like faded jeans). So we
need to know more about dyes and their properties.
A simple test to check the colourfastness is to rub a wet white hanky against the coloured
fabric. If colour comes on it that fabric should not be bought. If you have bought a
cotton fabric which runs colour, runs wash it in cold water with salt added to it.
Fastness to washing is important for dress materials and household lines as they have
to be washed frequently. Fastness to sunlight is important for curtains etc.

7.7 Classification of Dyes

We can classify dyes according to their sources as:
(i) Natural (ii) Chemical
Mostly from plants Acid
Some from minerals Basic
and animals also. Azoic - Napathol, Batik
Direct
Reactive
Vat
Let us try to see each group and their properties.
Natural dyes
These were the first dyes known to man. These dyes are based on raw materials
available is nature (plants, insects, and minerals). They do not create any pollution
problem, rather in some cases like harda, indigo, etc, the waste in the process be-
comes ideal ferilizer for use in agriculture fields. Also the natural colours are soothing to
the human eye.
These days they are not used in bulk as they are not easily available in large quantities.
That is why they are expensive. The main dyes obtained from plants are saffron, henna
or mehendi, indigo, catechu or katha, tesu flowers, onion chilka, etc.
Chemical dyes
These dyes are not obtained from natural sources. They are synthetically made by
using various chemicals.
Fastness and evenness of a colour on the fabric is dependent on selection of:
 Finishes :: 101

z right dye for the fabric

z right method of dyeing.
Finishing with colour
You have just learnt that various finishes improve the appearance of the fabric. Now, it
is the dyeing and the printing process to make the fabric beautiful.
Although both these process add colour and design to the fabric they differ in the way
they are applied.
In dyeing, the fabric is dipped in the solution of the dye while in printing, the design is
printed on the fabric by using the dye in the form of a paste with wooden blocks or
rollers.
Ranking of chemical dyes according to price and colourfastness.

7.8 Dyes and their Use

Types of Dye Fastness to washing Fastness to sunlight Type of fabric
Direct light shades -good Some colours, poor Cotton
Dark shades-poor Some colours, good
Basic Poor Bad Silk or Wool
Azoic Excellent Very good Cotton and Silk
Vat Excellent Excellent All fabrics
Disperse Excellent Excellent Synthetics

This chart will help you in making the selection of the right dye for the right fabric.
Procedure for dyeing:-
Fabric to be dyed - Cotton
Dye used - reastive/direct.
Procedure
Step I - Remove all starch before dyeing, otherwise you will get a patchy effect and the
colour will not be even and fast.
Step II- Take water in a metallic vessel. The water should be enough to completely
soak the fabric to be dyed.
Step III - Take appropriate amount of dye in a small bowl depending upon the size and
weight of the fabric and the intensity of the colour required. For lighter shades, less dye
is required. (Refer to the Thumb rule given below).
Thumb rule
For 1mt. cambric - 10gm dye required
102 :: Home Science

For light shades - reduce quantity of dye

For light weight fabrics, eg., mulmul - quantity of dye should be less
NOTE: constant practice will help you achieve desired effects.
Step IV - Make a smooth paste of the dye with water. Add the dye paste to the hot
water in the vessel.
Step V - Add 1-2 tablespoon (tbsp) salt to the dye bath, stirring constantly.
Step VI - Wet the fabric, open it and dip in the dye bath before the water starts boiling.
Stir constantly with a wooden stick for even dyeing. Let the dye bath boil for about half
an hour.
Step VII - Remove the dyed fabric from the dye bath. Rinse it in cold water until the
excess dye has run off. Dry in shade.

7.9 Tie and Dye

You must have seen beautiful coloured bandhani dupattas with tiny white dots scat-
tered all over the fabric. Have you ever wondered how this effect is achieved? This is
done by a process of dyeing called tie and dye.
Tie and dye is a process of resist dyeing.
In tie and dye, some obstruction is provided in selected areas of the fabric so that the
colour does not go through that particular portion. In this way, a design is made on the
fabric. You can do tie and dye by different methods:
1. Marbling: Take the fabric and crumple it, then tie it with a thread at different
areas randomly. They dye the fabric and open up.

2. Binding: Pick up the fabric from one point and bind it with a thread at intervals.

3. Knotting: Put knots on the fabric wherever desired and dye it.
 Finishes :: 103

4. Folding: Fold the fabric and then bind it.

02

5. Clump tying: Take some beads or pebbles and put them in the fabric and then
tie.

6. Tritik: Make the design with a running stitch , pull the thread and then dye it.

Remember:
1. While dyeing, work from lighter shades to darker shades.
2. Always use destarched/desized fabric for dyeing. Can you say why?
3. Rinse the dyed fabric in cold water very well before drying the fabric
4. Let the fabric dry completely before opening the threads.

7.10 Block Printing

Have you ever gone to a Post Office? There, a stamp is put on every letter. A stick
with a stamp on it is pressed into an ink pad and then is put on the letter. Block printing
is similar to this where a wooden block which has a design engraved on it, is pressed
104 :: Home Science

into a dye paste pad and then pressed on the fabric.

ACTIVITY
1. Collect samples of dyed and printed fabrics.
2. Make samples of 10" x 10" of white, cotton fabric using different techniques of
tie-and-dye.

INTEXT QUESTIONS 7.2

i) ___________ is an important property of a coloured fabric.
ii) __________ is a fabric where fading of colour is preferred.
iii) Dyes can be classified as __________ and ____________ dyes.
iv) Indigo is an example of ____________ dye.
v) Chemicals dyes are not received from __________ sources.
vi) In a coloured fabric if the colour runs it should not be washed in ______ water.

7.11 What You Have Learnt

For your convenience, here are the main points of the lesson:-
FINISHES IMPORTANCE

IMPROVE

APPEARANCE FEEL PERFORMANCE

TYPES

OF FABRIC

BASIC SPECIAL

z SCOURING z MERCERIZATION
z BLEACHING z SHRINKAGE CONTROL
z STIFFENING z WATER PROOFING
z DYEING – THE AND DYE
z PRINTING – BLOCK PRINTING
 Finishes :: 105

7.12 Terminal Exercise

1. What is textile finishing?
2. What is the difference between basic and special finishes?
3. Why is shrinkage control required in fabrics?
4. How can designs be created by tie and dye?
5. Define dyeing and printing. How are they different?

7.13 Answers to Intext Questions

7.1 1. a) 3 b) 4 c) 2 d) 5
2. i) bleaching
ii) gum.
iii) mercerizing.
iv) Shrinkage.
3. a) permanent
b) sanfarizing.
7.2 i) Colourfastness.
ii) Denium
iii) Natural & Chemical
iv) Natural
v) Natural
vi) Hot