Plans N O W ®

w w w. p l a n s n o w. c o m

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES SERIES

Everything You Need to Know About Buying Router Bits

Router Bit Basics

A colored Teflon or oxide coating
O nce you get hooked on routers
and what you can do with them,
you’ll find no shortage of other tools
find today are carefully engineered
for safety and performance. And while
some indicators of quality can be seen
on the bit body is a nice bonus.
Manufacturers rely on them for brand
designed to put all of that potential to only through a microscope (see recognition, but the key function is to
good use. Dovetail jigs, edge guides, Understanding Carbide), a low-tech stem the buildup of wood pitch.
router tables — all of these acces- visual inspection can still reveal a lot
sories can open up new woodworking about a bit’s pedigree.
techniques for you, but none can lay Details, as always, speak volumes.
claim to being the essential router A smooth, highly polished surface on
companion. That role belongs to the the shank and on the carbide tips
cutters. reflects careful machining that will
Like saw blades and shaper cutters, result in a better collet fit and longer-
router bits are typically made with tool lasting cutting edges. Carbide
steel bodies and tungsten-carbide cut- quantity should be gen-
ting tips, but their inherent design dif- erous (about 3/32" to 1/8"
ference (a support shank that’s per- thick) to allow multiple
pendicular to the cutting force) and sharpenings — many “dis-
higher operating speeds (up to 25,000 count” bits skimp here. Also, the
rpm) means they’re sometimes sub- braze (the alloy weld that bonds the
jected to greater stresses. Still, virtu- carbide tip to the tool body) should
ally all of the name-brand bits you’ll be free of voids.

Continued on next page...

Plus: Bonus Article See Page 5

Step-by-step plans for building your own

Router Cabinet
Store everything you need for routing in one place with this easy-to-build
storage cabinet. It includes a sturdy platform for making bit changes and router
adjustments. A convenient cut-away shelf lets you store your router in an
upright position without removing the bit! See page 5 for details.

From Workbench Magazine page 1 © August Home Publishing Co.

 Starter Bits Today’s Cutter Designs Are Safer
Recognizing cues to a router bit’s
quality takes some practice, but it’s Once the exception, now the rule, anti-kickback cutter designs (left)
much harder deciding which cutter have largely replaced the open gullet tool bodies of yesteryear (right).
profiles to buy. Router bits are the Also called chip-limiting, this bit style restricts the
Lay’s potato chip of woodworking bite of the cutting edge by reducing its expo-
tools — nobody can stop with just sure, making over-
one. Get used to the idea of spending feeding and kick-
more money on bits than you will on back much less
most any router. likely. Careful,
If you’re just putting a shop though — they
together and haven’t figured out still aren’t any
exactly what kind of woodworking friendlier to flesh.
you’ll be doing most, you can get
plenty of versatility from a basic
starter set of a dozen or so cutters. door frames for a partial overlay fit. Basic Bit Care
Straight bits specialize in cutting Sets with multiple bearing sizes are Whatever individual cutters you buy,
dadoes and grooves, but they can especially useful, allowing you to get carbide-tipped bits, and expect
also cut other joinery details. I use change the rabbet width quickly. A to spend about $150-$200 on a decent
the 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" sizes most often. chamfer bit, also guided by a bearing, starter set. Some vendors still offer
If you work a lot in plywood, try the cuts a 45° bevel on a board’s edge. high-speed steel cutters, but their
undersize bits ( 31/64" and 23/32" ) Roundover bits turn sharp square edge life is much shorter than car-
designed for those reduced panel edges into soft radiused contours, bide. Engineered wood composites,
thicknesses. Straight bits with guide making them friendlier to the touch. such as plywood and particleboard,
bearings above or below the cutting Radius sizes range all the way from contain glue lines and binder resins
1
flutes will trim an edge flush with a /8" to 11/2", but 3/8" is a good starter that are tough on tool edges, and
template or guide board — great for bit because it can put a half-round they’ll dull a steel cutter before you
curved work or for trimming plastic bullnose on 3/4"-thick lumber. can say “burn my edges.” By the time
laminate. Another suggestion: bit shanks are you figure in the need for constant
A rabbeting bit makes quick work typically either 1/4" or 1/2" in diam- resharpening, the lower purchase
of milling square ledges along the eter. For midsize or larger cutters, price of a high-speed steel bit is no
edges of boards, or around cabinet buy the 1/2"-shank versions. bargain.
One exception to this rule in my
Flush-trim
Basic Set shop is a spiral-flute milling cutter
45° Chamfer that I use for mortising. The only
Straight Rabbeting alternative to high-speed steel here
3
/8" Roundover is a very expensive solid carbide bit,
but this is a joinery cutter that I don’t
use on wood composites. The steel
edges hold up well in most hard-
woods, and resharpening costs less
than it does for carbide.
With the relatively recent avail-
ability of small diamond sharpening
hones, you can tune up some car-
bide edges in your shop, but I still
Reversible Finger-joint
Joiner y Set send mine out to be professionally
glue-joint ground and polished. If you decide to
Lock miter Drawer-lock sharpen your bits yourself, dress only
Dovetail joint the flat face of each cutting flute,
never the outside edge.
It’s equally important to keep bits
clean — the cutting flutes, the bit
body, and also any guide bearings.
Accumulated wood pitch creates
excess heat that will dull cutting
edges and burn your workpiece.

From Workbench Magazine page 2 © August Home Publishing Co.

“Component” Bits Provide Versatility SOURCE LIST
Some router bits feature interchangeable components that let Major Router Bit Manufacturers
them do the work of several cutters. Seven different guide bearings ■ Amana Tool Corp. (800) 445-0077
let this rabbeting bit (left) cut six rabbet depths ■ American Tool/Irwin (800) 866-5740
or double as a flush- ■ Bosch/S-B Power Tool (800) 815-8665
trim bit. The slot-cutter ■ CMT USA (888) 268-2487
set (right) swaps the ■ DeWalt (800) 433-9258
cutting bodies to create ■ Eagle America (800) 872-2511
varied slot widths. ■ Freud USA (800) 472-7307
■ Grizzly/S-Y (800) 523-4777
■ Jesada Tools (800) 531-5559
■ MLCS (800) 533-9298
■ Ocemco/P.R. Carbide (800) 237-8613
■ Oldham/Viper (800) 828-9000
■ Porter-Cable Corp. (800) 487-8665
■ Vermont American (800) 626-2834
■ Whiteside Machine Co. (800) 225-3982
House-hold ammonia, C o l o r e d s q u a r e s i n d i c a t e m a n u f a c t u r e r ’s b i t c o l o r

Formula 409, and oven cleaner will

remove pitch, but I like to use non-
toxic products such as Simple Green shapers typically run at only 7,000 - more about form than function.
or some of the new citrus-based 12,000 rpm — one-third to half the Designed to produce decorative
cleaners. speed of most routers — because the details, these include multi-form
large cutter diameters create dan- bits, molding cutters, round-nose
Specialty Cutters gerous rim speeds at higher rpm and V-groove bits for fluting and
For moving beyond the basics, my levels. If you want to use a big bit in bead routing, and many others. Like
favorites are specialty profiles for a router table, the router motor joinery bits, many of the larger sizes
cutting joinery. These bits do fast should have a speed reduction fea- are for router table use only.
and precise work, creating self- ture. Other specialty cutters are
aligning joints that make glue-up
much easier. Examples include a
reversible glue joint, a lock miter, a
One Theme: Five Variations
drawer lock joint, a slot cutter set, a These five flush-trim bits work the same
dovetail bit, and a finger-joint cutter. way, but the small laminate trimming
Because joinery cutters usually bit on the left can’t handle the
remove most or all of the board’s thicker stock and heavy cuts
original edge, nearly all of them are its siblings are built for. Bits
designed for use in a table-mounted with larger shanks and/or
router only, and must be used with spiral flutes are better at
a guide fence. If you limit yourself pattern-routing wood.
to freehand routing, you’ll have to
live without help from these cut-
ters. I don’t think the trade-off is
worth it. Even a relatively simple
router table (see our portable Decorative Bits Multi-form Molding
design in the Februar y 1998
Workbench) will let you machine pre- Table-edge
1/
cise joinery quickly and accurately. 2"Core-box
3/8" Cove
With the wide range of router bits (Round-nose)
now offered, router tables also mimic
the role that used to belong exclu-
sively to spindle shapers. Panel-
raising bits (like the one shown on
page 1) and stile-and-rail cutter sets
let you produce custom cabinet doors
just like the pros do. One warning:

From Workbench Magazine page 3 © August Home Publishing Co.

 Understanding Carbide
When Bigger Isn’t Better

U nlike tool steels, which are forged in a molten state

and machined into drill bits and edge tools such as
chisels and plane irons, tungsten-carbide is what’s known
as a sintered metal. It is formed by mixing fine grains of

Photos Courtesy of: Freud U.S.A.

carbon with powdered tungsten, then consolidating the
mixture under intense pressure and heat. Developed first
for the metalworking industry, carbides also contain
cobalt (about 6-10 percent in woodworking grades), which
helps bind the carbide particles together and allows the
otherwise brittle blank to be brazed (welded) with silver Coarse grain
alloy to a tool body.
Carbides don’t have the fine crystalline structure of
high-speed steel. Their edge-holding capability is a func-
tion of their grain size and how well the binder prevents
edge-fractures and resists chemical erosion — two of the
three culprits responsible for most carbide wear (the
other is heat). The best grades are “micrograin,” with an
average particle size of one micron (a millionth of a
meter). Larger grains mean bigger voids and more binder,
producing a softer compound and a rough, dull edge as
grains break off during use.
Micrograin

From Workbench Magazine page 4 © August Home Publishing Co.

 Complete Step-by-Step Plans

Router Cabinet
O f the dozen or so power tools
that have taken up permanent
residence in my shop, only two get pref-
absurd devotion I can feel for a fire-
breathing 21/2 -hp plunge router.Confess
this to a normal person and they’ll make
a precision inlay, shaping the edge of a
board, or machining joinery details,
routers earn their keep like no other
erential treatment. Both are routers. a mental note to sit near someone else portable power tool.
My various drills, saws, and sanders next time. But tell a fellow woodworker, By itself, though, a router is just power
all do their jobs without fail, and I rely and he’ll just nod his head and smile. and potential. What makes it sing are
on each one, but none inspires the Whether they’re cutting a recess for specialized cutters, edge guides, jigs,
and other accessories. These things give
the tool amazing versatility, but in my
shop they also tend to get scattered in
odd places while I work. I decided to
remedy the problem with this dedicated
storage cabinet.
Aside from a storage bay for my dove-
tail jig and a pair of drawers to hold
accessories and oversize cutters, this
cabinet offers other bonuses. The doors
provide room for up to 40 bits, all held
in place so the cutting edges don’t collide
with each other. Also, clearance holes
in the shelf let me store the routers
standing up without removing or
backing off the bit.
The drop-front lower door, though, is
my favorite feature. I use it as a tray to
change bits, install an edge guide, or
just fine-tune adjustments. My tools don’t
stray like they used to, and the door
frame acts as a rim to keep bits and bear-
ings from rolling off.

Use Strong Materials

I wanted this cabinet to be stout but
simple, so I used just two sizes of Baltic
Birch plywood for all the components.
Most suppliers label these panels as frac-
tional inch sizes (1/4" and 3/4" for the
panels I used), but they’re made to
metric dimensions (6mm and 18mm
thick, respectively). The thicker panel
actually checks in at 11/16'', so that’s what
(continued )

From Workbench Magazine page 5 © August Home Publishing Co.

 OVERALL SIZE: 361/4"H× 24!/8"W× 13"D Router Cabinet Construction View

Cut List: 18mm Panel

A Carcase side panels (2)
10" × 361/4"
B Carcase top/bottom (2)
101/4" × 231/8"
WORKBENCH PROJECT SUPPLIES C Shelves (2)
91/4" × 231/8"
Router Cabinet D Drop-front door panel (1)
A kit has been assembled for this
project that includes the hinges, braces, 11" × 231/8"
Plywood Cutting Diagram
50 nylon bit bushings (25 in each size), E Upper door stiles (4)
and all fasteners. Order No. 3305100 21/2" × 241/8"
To order call Workbench Project Supplies F Upper door rails (4)
1-800-311-3994 21/2" × 11"
G Drop-front door rails (2)
I used to plan my joinery design
21/2" × 231/8"
(Router Cabinet Construction
H Drop-front door stiles (2)
View). Also, it comes in sheets 60"
21/2" × 12"
square. I cut the panel into sections
I Door shelf inserts (8)
(red lines) for batches of various
2" × 105/8''
parts
J Drawer bottoms (2)
(Plywood Cutting Diagram). Most
77/8" × 103/8"
of the joinery details will be easier
K Drawer fronts/backs (4)
to machine on these larger pieces,
53/8" × 107/8"
then you can cut the individual parts
L Door shelf lips (2)
later (black lines). Make sure your 3
/4" × 10"
rough sizes allow for the blade kerfs.
M Divider (1)
Each cut will mean a loss of up to
1/ " of material.
6" × 91/4"
8

From Workbench Magazine page 6 © August Home Publishing Co.

Carcase Assembly View
Side Panel Detail Shelf Detail
(Inside View) (Top View)

While I still had the wide dado

blade set up, I also cut a groove in
the drop-front door rails and stiles
for housing an 11/16"-thick panel (see
page 10). This door doubles as a
work tray, and I didn’t think the 1/4"
plywood I bought for the other door
panels would provide the rigid sup-
port I wanted. A 1/2"-thick panel
would have been plenty, but to keep
my materials list simple I just opted
for the thicker plywood I had on hand
for the carcase sides.
Next, switch to a 1/4" dado blade
and cut the grooves that hold the cab-
Cutting the Joinery After I machined these joints I got inet back panel (Figure 2). When
Once I’d shimmed my dado blade to ready to change the dado setup, but you cut this detail in the carcase
match the plywood thickness, the realized I might as well cut all the pieces, keep in mind that the top and
carcase joinery was simple — rabbet door frame rabbets while I was at it bottom panels are 1/4" wider than the
joints at the corners, and dadoes for (see the door assembly views pages side panels and will be offset at the
the shelves and shelf divider 58-59). Consolidating these steps rear edge. (This offset simplifies the
(Carcase Assembly View and Side required a little labeling work to keep mounting system I used for the cab-
Panel Detail). I managed it with just all the parts organized, but it did save inet, a feature I’ll explain later.) One
the table saw and a dado blade (Pro me from making a few blade fence setting will do the grooves in all
Tip and Figure 1). changes. four carcase panels, if you guide each
panel with its front edge against the
fence.
PRO TIP The upper door frame rails and
For odd plywood thicknesses, lose the habit of measuring joint depth. stiles also need a 1/4" groove to accept
their panels.
Plywood thicknesses used to be reliable, but with today’s undersize and metric
One other detail I added was a pair
panels the resulting odd fractions create headaches, especially when cutting joints
of holes in the upper shelf to make it
that affect the overall dimensions of a project. Avoid mistakes by designating the
easier to store my routers (Shelf
thickness of the remaining material, not the joint depth, as your working dimension.
Detail). These holes, cut with a 21/8"-
dia. hole saw I’d bought to install a
lockset, allow me to set the routers
directly on the shelf and leave the
cutter settings intact.

Assembling the Carcase

At this point you can assemble the
carcase and let the glue set up while
you cut some of the remaining parts
for the cabinet. I did take one slight
detour before reaching for the glue,
1 2 though. I drilled and countersunk
Keep matched parts together for machining the joinery, then When you switch to a 1/4" dado for the nar- holes in the side panels so I could
cut them apart later. Fine-tune the dado width with shims if rower panel grooves, keep the front edge of screw the carcase together. It’s faster
necessary, and adjust depth of cut to leave 1/2" of material. each piece against the fence.

From Workbench Magazine page 7 © August Home Publishing Co.

 3 4
Fit the cabinet’s shelves and divider together first, then glue and After gluing and fastening the bottom carcase panel to the sides,
fasten the carcase side panels. All front edges should be down. slide the 1/4" back panel in, then add the top carcase panel.

than putting the assembly together drawers. With only rabbet and butt Start the drawer assembly
with clamps, and this is a shop cab- joints, these assemblies are even sim- sequence by gluing and clamping
inet, so I don’t mind having the fas- pler to build than the others (Drawer the front and back faces to the ends
teners show. Assembly View). The drawer fronts of the drawer bottom. You’ll need to
Start the assembly by gluing and and backs are identical down to the use some 3/4"-thick clamping cauls to
fitting the vertical divider between half-round cutout pulls. This feature keep the pressure from “folding” the
the two shelves. Then spread a bead isn’t intended to make the drawers faces inward (Figure 6). Gluing the
of glue in the dadoes in the side reversible (although they are). drawer sides in place will also help
panels, fit the shelf assembly in place, Instead it’s to provide clearance in keep things aligned. A glued-only
and put a clamp on to steady every- the back for any bits that extend joint would likely hold up fine here,
thing while you’re driving the screws down through the shelf above. I cut but I drove brads into each corner
(Figure 3). these with the same hole saw I used for extra strength.
The cabinet’s top and bottom earlier on the shelf, drilling into the
panels are next, but don’t install both center of two larger pieces that I cut
pieces at once or you’ll lose access for in half later.
inserting the back panel into its Because the rabbets in the drawer
groove. I glued and screwed the fronts and backs are so shallow (1/4"),
bottom panel in its rabbets, then I didn’t bother reinstalling my dado
nudged the assembly square and slid blade. I just set my rip fence so the
the back panel in from the top end of left side of the blade was cutting at
the cabinet (Figure 4). Then I the 1/4" mark, set the blade height,
installed the top panel to close up the and made one pass on each edge to
carcase. define the shoulders of the rabbets.
(Figure 5). Then I just scooted the 5
Building the Drawers board away from the fence and made Cut the drawer rabbets on double-wide
While the glue was setting up in the a cleanup pass guided by the miter blanks, then rip the pieces in half to get a
carcase joints, I went back to the gauge. With the rabbets done, I cut drawer front and back from each one.
table saw to cut all the parts for the the face blanks in half.

Drawer Assembly View

6
Cauls direct clamping pressure to the bottom of the
drawer assembly. Align the front and back first, then
glue in the sides. For more strength, I secured the
rabbet joint with brads.

From Workbench Magazine page 8 © August Home Publishing Co.

Upper Door Assembly View
Stile Details Rail Details (End View)
(End View)

(Inside View)

holes spaced every 2", enough to

spread a heavy load out across their
(Inside full length.
View) Under most circumstances, I’ll
install hinges on doors first, then
the cabinet. But with this design, I
Door Assembly View, Stile fastened the hinges first to the front
Details, and Rail Details). edges of the cabinet — one on each
You have to insert the panel side and one across the bottom
before you close up each (Figure 8). I clamped one leaf of
frame, and the assemblies each hinge to the cabinet (its edge
must be flat and square to flush with the inside face of the
ensure a good fit against the panel), then drove a few screws to
carcase. I glued up one end of hold it in place. (The hinges have
each frame, fit the panel, then no adjustment feature, so I waited
clamped each door to my until all three doors were aligned
workbench (Figure 7). I before driving all the screws.)
drove the screws immediately When I was ready to fasten the
but left the clamps on for an hinges to the doors, I set the cab-
hour while the glue set. inet upright and clamped support
Note: Cut rabbets in the
blocks on each side, letting the
stiles only. On the upper doors, these are
the longer frame pieces; on the drop-front door Fitting the Doors doors rest on them (Figure 9). I
(facing page), the stiles are the short frame pieces. The door designs for this cabinet pro- used more clamps to hold each
vide built-in bit storage and a con- hinge to a door edge, and drove only
Assembling the Doors venient work surface, but these fea- four screws into each door frame —
With no integral shelves or fixed tures come at a price — extra weight. just enough to keep everything con-
dividers to worry about, the door To make sure the mounting hard- nected. After I mounted all the
assemblies fit together quickly, with ware was up to the strain, I used a doors, I shut them and checked for
just a captive panel and rabbet joints 24"-long continuous hinge (some- a uniform 1/8" gap between, then
at the corners (Upper Door times called a piano hinge) to mount sent screws through the remaining
Assembly View, Drop-Front each door. These hinges have screw holes in each hinge.

7 8
With one end of each door frame assembled, insert the panel, install the To ensure accurate placement, clamp each hinge in place — flush with
other rail, and clamp the door flat before driving the other screws. the inside edges of the carcase panels — then drive just a few screws.

From Workbench Magazine page 9 © August Home Publishing Co.

 Rail Details Drop-Front Door Assembly View
(End View)

(Inside View)

Stile Details
(End View)

(Edge View)

These braces are marked for left-

hand and right-hand installation, and
(Inside
View) feature positive-locking and a release
button for closing them. I screwed place, but when I started the layout
the lower end of each support arm marking it became obvious that the
directly to the inside face of the door dadoes would interfere with the
frame stile (backed by several 3/16" panel grooves and corner joints.
The doors also need some other flat washers), but the offset at the Besides, I’ve found with other proj-
hardware. I drilled screw holes in top end requires a double layer of ects that over-customized storage
the panels to install the pull knobs, 1/ " plywood to serve as a mounting gets obsolete in a hurry (anyone
4
and in the cabinet edges so I could block on the inside of the carcase remember eight-track tapes?). My
press-fit the magnetic catches panel (Drop-Front Door Support router bit inventory has grown a lot
(Figure 9). Detail). I opted to run longer pieces over time, and I wanted a storage
The drop-front door also requires and use them as supports for a loose system that could evolve with it.
a pair of hinged support arms. For shelf made from scrap plywood. I use The simplest solution proved to
extra heft here, I ended up using a this spot to keep router manuals and be a series of eight interchangeable
pair of folding table leg braces from the instruction booklet for my dove- shelf inserts, four for each door. The
The Stanley Works (#446 -1/2- 2C). tail jig. inserts stack inside the door recesses
with help from thin plywood spacers,
Door Shelf Inserts the last pair of which gets screwed in
Building router bit storage place to secure everything below. I
into the upper doors really kept all the inserts the same size to
exploits the usable storage streamline the cutting chores.
space in this cabinet. At first I
thought I would simply cut
dadoes in the door frames and
glue permanent shelves in

Drop-Front Door
Support Detail
(Cross Section View)

9
With each upper door resting on a support block,
clamp its top end to the hinge before fastening.

From Workbench Magazine page 10 © August Home Publishing Co.

Shelf Inserts Assembly View

10 11
Using a notched push block, cut the end As you work your way up the door, each
rabbets for the shelf inserts on an oversize shelf insert locks the spacers below in
blank, then rip it to the required sizes. place. Fasten the top spacers with screws.

spacers captive without fasteners or

glue. Just as I did with the joinery
Mounting Detail
details on the carcase sides, I
machined these rabbets on larger
pieces (two 81/2"-wide × 105/8"-long
panels), as shown in Figure 10.
Then I ripped them to the required
size. This process is faster than cut-
ting the joints piecemeal, and it
Shelf Insert Details makes the stock easier to handle.
After all the inserts are cut, you
can drill holes for the nylon bush-
ings that hold the router bit shanks.
These bushings are just plastic rails — one screwed to the cabinet
sleeves with either a 1/4" or 1/2" bore. back and one to the wall studs
They make it easier to get the bits (Mounting Detail).
in and out, and you can drill different Five minutes after the cabinet was
I cut a pair of shallow rabbets on hole patterns to accommodate the on the wall, I had my routers nesting
the ends of each insert (Shelf Insert space requirements of your various on the upper shelf and both doors
Details). These create a self-locking cutters. filled with router bits. I also added a
feature by holding the vertical I cut 20 shelf spacers from 1/4" ply- few screw hooks to hold the router
wood and drilled 3/16"-dia. screw cords up and hang edge guides.
holes in the center of four of them I figured
What You’ll Need — the rest simply press-fit in. After I that’s prob-
Lumber set the first two spacers at the bottom ably enough.
(1) sheet 18mm (11/16") × 60" × 60" Baltic of each door recess, I glued a narrow If I get any
Birch plywood or equivalent strip of 11/16" plywood to the bottom more organized,
(1) sheet 6mm (1/4" ) × 60" × 60" Baltic frame rail. This keeps the spacers it’ll be a crime.
Birch plywood or equivalent seated and creates a pocket for
storing small items such as extra col-
Hardware* lets and guide bearings.
(76) #6 × 1/2" flat-head wood screws The shelf inserts stack in place,
(3) 24"L × 11/2"W continuous hinges locking the spacers as you work
(1) pr. table leg braces (Stanley 446-1/2 -2C) your way up (Figure 11). As soon
(48) #6 × 11/4" drywall screws as I had them all fitted, I drove
(8) #10 × 1" pan-head sheet metal screws screws to hold the top spacers
(6) 2" L-hooks with screw thread snugly in place.
(8) 3/16" flat washers I hung the cabinet using a pair of
(4) 7/16" round magnetic catches 3/
4"-thick bevel-edged mounting
(3) 11/4"-dia. wood knobs
(50) nylon bit bushings (25 ea. 1/4" and 1/2")
Any hobby can be easier to
*(Workbench kit available; see page 6) manage with this cabinet!

From Workbench Magazine page 11 © August Home Publishing Co.