1.

From the answer to this question it all began

At the moment, the message contains current information on cooling fan

systems, recommendations for diagnosing their faults and possible repair
methods for Astra-H / Zafira-B . Information is updated and
supplemented as necessary.

Thank you all,

who participates in the discussions, provides information and offers their
own methods of solving problems associated with cooling fans.

The fact is that there are several versions of the equipment, depending on the
year of production and equipping the car. The number on the BOSCH is
interesting (numbers may differ from those listed below, as time goes by, the
manufacturer applies other details).
The exact number of the fan you can see only in this place, see the photo (for
convenience of viewing you can use a mirror or just tear off the label). The
photo shows the rear cover of the electric motor of the engine cooling fan, it
can be seen from the engine side.

IMPORTANT! To accurately determine the configuration of the cooling

system on your car, report: model car, year of manufacture, engine, air-
conditioning, air conditioning (yes / no).

All information and recommendations for diagnosis and repair, described

below, mean that the reader has basic knowledge of electrical engineering,
safety rules when working with electrical equipment and cooling and air
conditioning systems, direct hands and brains, of course.
Hope for understanding

Recommendations:
Before starting anything to diagnose, and even more so to repair, I strongly
recommend that you make sure that the FAULT is PRESENT. To do this, you
need to familiarize yourself with how the system works on your vehicle.
Perhaps there is a NORMAL behavior of the system under specific operating
conditions, you just do not know about it ... This can help profile technical
literature, starting with the regular "Operation manual" (if not, you can
download it on the site opel.ru).

It is also important to understand that the wrong operation of the fans can be
connected not only with electrical, but also with mechanical malfunctions of
the cooling system, air conditioning and the engine itself: the thermostat or its
heater does not work, the radiators are dirty, the pump is not working at all or
the pump is not working at all, various reasons: ("breakdown" of the gasket or
crack in the cylinder head, incorrect filling of the system with antifreeze when
replacing it, etc.).

Types of fan systems on Astra-H / Zafira-B. Electroschemes.

Checking the fans and power wiring:

IMPORTANT!!! Before performing the checks on the operation of

the systems, see below, the ignition must necessarily be switched off ,
the lever (selector) must be transferred to the NEUTRAL , the vehicle
must be placed on the MANUAL or fixed in any other way,
Otherwise, there is a risk of mistakenly pulling out the relay of the
starter, for example, closing the contacts of which the starter will start,
and the car can leave at a lucky confluence of circumstances.

Two SINGLE-speed fans (in total we have TWO speeds) are mainly
applied to:
- petrol 1.8 with automatic transmission
- diesel 1.9 without air conditioning (depending on the year).

Electroscheme

- Checking the functioning of the system

1. Check the integrity and conformity of the fuse rating FE5 and FE6,
the presence of power (B +)
2. Remove relay K1, K2, K10 from the fuse block (take a picture or
remember how they stood)
3. Install a jumper between contacts K30 and 87A of relay K10 in the
fuse box.
4. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 in the fuse
box - BOTH of the fan should rotate at low speed.
5. Remove the OBD jumper.
6. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K10 in the fuse
box.
7. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 in the fuse
box - the fan of the air conditioner (small) should rotate at maximum
speed
8. Establish a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K1 in the
block of safety locks - the fan of cooling of the engine (big) should
rotate at the maximum speed. The fan of the air conditioner (small)
should continue to rotate at maximum speed.
9. Remove all jumpers, and install the relays. Verification is
complete.

- Fans are used:

0130303 313 (390mm) single-speed cooling fan motor, installed in
tandem with
0130303 303 (312mm) single-speed fan of the air conditioner (blower
fan, installed in front of the radiator of the air conditioner).
In this case, there are no quenching resistors and thermal fuses - a
completely reliable switching circuit. In order to disrupt its operation,
it is necessary to disable the fan itself, which is quite difficult.

TWO 2_x high-speed fans (all have THREE speeds) are set to:
- gasoline 2.0 T, 1.6T + cond., 2.2 + cond.
- Diesels with air conditioning.

Wiring diagram with description and Electrical wiring diagram.

- Checking the functioning of the system

1. Check the integrity and conformity of the fuse rating FE5 and FE6,
the presence of power (B +)
2. Remove relay K1, K2, K10 from the fuse block (take a picture or
remember how they stood)
3. Install a jumper between contacts K30 and 87A of relay K10 in the
fuse box.
4. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 in the fuse
box - BOTH of the fan should rotate at low speed.
5. Remove the OBD jumper.
6. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K10 in the fuse
box.
7. Install the jumper between -ACB (minus) and terminal 85 of relay
K10 in the fuse box - BOTH of the fan should start spinning at an
average speed at the same time.
8. DO NOT remove jumper settings. Establish a jumper between
contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 in the block of safety locks - the fan of
the conditioner (small) should rotate at the maximum speed
9. DO NOT remove jumper settings. Establish a jumper between
contacts 30 and 87 of relay K1 in the block of safety locks - the fan of
cooling of the engine (big) should rotate at the maximum speed. The
fan of the air conditioner (small) should continue to rotate at maximum
speed.
10. Remove all jumpers, replace the relay. Verification is complete.

- Fans are used:

0130303 245 (390mm) / 0130303 314 (390mm) / 0130303 299
(390mm) / 0130303 304 (335mm, diesel / petrol turbo) the engine
cooling fans
0130303 302 (312mm) - A / C fan (blower fan, installed in front of the
A / C radiator)
In this version, fans with resistors and two additional relays are used,
which provides, in total, THREE speeds of rotation. Additional relays
are installed on the air conditioner fan diffuser.

One 2_x high-speed fan (in total we have TWO speeds) is installed
mainly on the car :
- gasoline 1.6 and 1.8 with manual transmission / robot and air
conditioning;
 - Gasoline 1.6 Turbo, 2.2, Diesel engines WITHOUT air conditioning
(1.9DT depending on the year).

Electroscheme

- Checking the functioning of the system

1. Check the integrity and conformity of the fuse rating FE6, the
presence of power supply (B +)
2. Remove relay K2, K10 from the fuse block (take a picture or
remember how they stood)
3. Establish a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K10 in the
block of safety locks - the fan should rotate at low speed.
4. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 in the fuse
box - the fan should rotate at maximum speed
5. Remove all jumpers, and install the relays. Verification is
complete.

- Fans are used:

0130303 245 (390mm) / 0130303 314 (390mm) / 0130303 299
(390mm) engine cooling fans

One 3_x high-speed fan is installed mainly on the car :

- Astra-H until 07.2005 of the year. gasoline 1.4 and 1.6 (14 XEP and
16 XEP , not to be confused with XER), in fact only two speeds are
used out of the available THREE (software restriction), switching
thresholds at XX 112 * and 116 *;
- Astra-G / Chevrolet Viva since 2003, gasoline + manual
transmission + cond., Except 16XEL and 2.0T, all three speeds are
used.

The electroscheme (Z14XEP and Z16XEP Till the end of the year
07.2005)

- Checking the functioning of the system (only Astra-H)

1. Check the integrity and conformity of the fuse rating FE5 and FE6,
the presence of power (B +)
2. Remove relay K1, K2, K10 from the fuse block (take a picture or
remember how they stood)
3. Install a jumper between contacts K10 and K10 of relay K10 (in
K13) in the fuse box-the fan should rotate at low speed.
4. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K2 (in circuit
K12) in the fuse box - the fan should rotate at medium speed
5. Install a jumper between contacts 30 and 87 of relay K1 (in circuit
K11) in the fuse box - the fan should rotate at maximum speed
6. Remove all jumper wires, replace the relay. Verification is
complete.

- Fans are used:

0130303 300 (390mm, ceramic resistor) / 0130303 298 (390mm, open
nichrome) engine cooling fans
Common to all options:

- Checking the operability of the fan itself and its resistor:

TWO-speed - see the photo on the left; THREE-SPEED - the photo

on the right (pinout is the same regardless of the type of resistor:
ceramic or "springs").
A single-speed fan is tested by analogy with a two-speed fan, with the
exception of the middle contact. He either is not, or he is not involved.

- Resistor and thermal fuse

Each element of the resistor has a resistance of 0.24 Ohm, made of

nichrome wire ~ 1mm dia. Description of the ceramic resistor, see
below in the chapter "Repair ..."

The standard resistor BOSCH is equipped with a thermal fuse at 216 *

C 15A (marking 216 KR1).

IMPORTANT!!! The parameters of the new thermal fuse must in

no case exceed the parameters of the standard one. Otherwise,
ignition of the vehicle, starting with the diffuser, is possible.

IMPORTANT!!! If the thermal fuse is faulty, this indicates

overheating of the resistor coil when the fan is running at low speeds.
Overheating of the spiral is due to an increase in the current passing
through it, i.e. current consumed by the fan. The increase in the
current consumed by the fan can be due to both mechanical failure of
the fan (bearing wear, jamming) and electrical (short circuit in the
windings of the rotor, for example)

The sub-jack module, the location of the relay and fuses (UEC)

Connector location X26 (frequent fault location)

IMPORTANT! To accurately determine the configuration of the

cooling system on your car, report: model car, year of
manufacture, engine, air-conditioning, air conditioning (yes / no).
 Description and logic of the system with two fans and
differences for DIESEL and PETROL motors:

For DIESEL engines with air conditioning:

1st speed - 6V on each EM, sequential circuit, activated by relay K2;
2nd speed - 9V on each EM, activated relay K10 (switching mass),
K30A and K30V supply 12V to resistors of each EM;
The third speed is 12V on each EM, all the relays are activated: K2,
K10, K1 (K30A and K30V are on, but shunted), 12V goes directly to
each EM;

For PETROL engines with automatic transmission:

1st speed - 6V on each EM, sequential circuit, activated by relay K2;
The 2nd speed is 12V on each EM, all the relays are activated: K1, K2
and K10 (switching mass), 12V goes directly to each EM;

* EM - electric motor of the fan (or fan, as it is more convenient ...).

!!! The main and common for all Astra-H and Zafira-B : fans, if
they are installed two, are ALWAYS switched on in pairs , and not
individually, i.e. Both are OFF or BOTH operate at the ONE (1st, 2nd
or 3rd) speed.
The Astra-H uses a relay control circuit and a series-parallel
connection of the fans. The control unit controls the controllers of the
ENGINE.
The control logic is constructed in such a way that the fans are
ALWAYS (if two fans are installed) operate synchronously. The
activation of the speeds occurs in the following order:
Gasoline Automatic: 0 -> 1 (first) -> 1 + 2 + 3 (second) -> 1 -> 0;
Diesel: 0 -> 1 (first) -> 2 (second) -> 1 + 2 + 3 (third) -> 2 -> 1 -> 0.
Take a look at the wiring diagram: when the 1_d speed is activated,
the fans are connected SEQUENCE, i.e. one without the other can not
work ...

General description of the cooling fan activation logic (for

understanding the process):

The algorithm for switching on the fan is determined not only by the
temperature of the internal combustion engine, but also by the pressure
in the A / C system and by the load on the internal combustion engine.
So the program ECM (ECU ICE) is written. High operating
temperature XER and XEP at low loads (XX and traffic in traffic jams)
is due to environmental requirements. NORMAL working temperature
of these motors lies in the range of 90-116 * C. With an increase in the
speed and crash on the internal combustion engine, the thermostat is
forced to open at 90 * C and the temperature schedule of the fans is
shifted. With a sharp and full pressure on the gas, the maximum fan
speed is immediately activated and the voltage is applied to the heater
and the air conditioning compressor turns off. All this algorithm starts
to work after reaching the engine temperature above 90 * C. While
warming up the engine ( with the conduit disconnected ) to 4.000-
5.500 rpm (depending on the model), you can observe the thermostat
opening already at 90 * C (and not at 105 * C) and earlier activation of
the fan.

It is important to understand that for different configurations: XER /

XEP / Diesel / Turbo, manual / robot / automatic transmission, condom
/ no condensate, the ECM program records different temperatures of
the engine coolant, air conditioner pressure, loads at which a particular
speed is activated fan. Therefore, on two externally identical yellow
Astra fans can work on different algorithms. Those. if your neighbor
has this, then it's not at all a fact that you should also have ... It's also
incorrect to compare the algorithm of the operation of systems of
different generations, for example Astra-H with Astra-G / F, etc.,

Online respected AutoPro you can read more about the device of the
thermostat and ICE XER and XEP

Nameplate the dependence of the speed of the ventilators on

temperature and pressure (it is for Vectra-C, but you can also navigate
it). The pressure parameters are valid for most cars in general, not just
for stakes.

The article on the vector club about the principles of the operation
of the cooling system of XER and XEP motors

If you want to test the functioning of the system on the car, then from
a cold warm up the ICE on XX with the decoupled condom, monitor
the temperature of the internal combustion engine, the pressure in the
system A / C and activate the fan speeds ECM_om, monitor the actual
behavior of the fans. You will need: test mode BC and OP-Com /
Tech-2. If you want to test while driving, then add to these parameters
the load on the ICE.

Example of a data list , which need to be monitored by diagnostic

equipment (OP-Com / Tech-2)

The most common faults of fans, their power circuits and

control circuits. Main causes of malfunctions:

Known and most common malfunctions

1. If the fault code is registered at any fan speed, the fault itself (break
or short circuit) is in the gap:
ECM -> wiring up to UEC -> fuses FE5 and FE6 -> windings of the
fan relay (in the UEC).

2. If any of the two fuses is blown, the fault is in the gap:

fuses FE5 and FE6 -> POWER contacts of the fan relay -> wiring to
the fans -> fan.

3. If the error codes are NO and the fan / s do NOT work or do not
work at all the prescribed speeds, the fault is in the gap:
POWER contacts of the fan relay -> wiring to the fans -> fan.
Particular attention should be paid to connector X26 (under the fender
on the left spar), see the diagrams:

4. If the error code is NO and the fan / s is almost never OFF or turned
on too often and at the maximum speed, check the parameters of the
engine coolant temperature sensor and the air conditioner pressure (as
indicated in figures), and if necessary, clean the radiators . See the
example: http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-%D...=1#post5951905

5. If the error code is NO and the fan / s is NEVER OFF, even with the
ignition switched off and the key removed, the power contacts of the
fan relay in the engine compartment or the power wiring of the fans are
closed to + (most recent of the fiction category).

6. Only for DIESEL, no error codes, no 2nd fan speed:

- only on one fan: the resistor or thermal fuse of the fan that does not
work is defective.
- on both fans: the control wire of the 2nd speed breaks to the relay
K30A (additional relay 2pcs on the small fan diffuser), it is responsible
for the 2nd speed, but the fault of the circuit of this relay is not
diagnosed by the ECM. Particular attention should also be paid to
connector X26 (under the fender on the left side member). Either
resistors or thermal fuses on BOTH fans are faulty, which is very
unlikely, but it does happen.

7. Only for DIESEL and Gasoline with automatic transmission (two

fans), there are NO error codes, there is no 1st speed of the fans (for
diesel engines: there is no 1st speed on both fans, one of the two
operates only on the 2nd and 3rd speed):
- defective one of the fans (one that will not work at other speeds), or
we check each fan directly.

Main causes of malfunctions

Higher vibrations during fan operation, especially at maximum speed,

are caused by imbalance due to sticking dirt / ice / snow, etc. on the
surface of the fan impeller. This also happens after cleaning the
radiators or ICE, if the fan is not closed or dismantled (the dirt washed
out by the kercher jet remains on the blades). For the appearance of an
imbalance, literally enough ...
Insensitivity is eliminated by cleaning the impeller.
 If it is necessary to remove the impeller from the electric motor, mark
the position in which it was installed. Installing the impeller in another
position can also disrupt the balancing of the fan and cause vibrations
during its operation.
Vibrations can also be caused by the wear of the fan bearings and the
formation of their increased radial play. It is checked by easy rocking
of the impeller. The play should not be felt and there should be no
knock when the force is applied to the impeller.

The malfunction of the electric motor (the motor itself) of the fan
most often occurs due to the same common dirt (depends on the
operating conditions), see the photo courtesy of Flex and nevsky .
The most common fault is a small (front) fan. This diesels and
gasoline + automatic transmission. But with a big fan, too, it gets ...
Result:
- very small speed of rotation of the fan when power is applied to it (it
can hardly be turned);
- the fan does not rotate at any speed; In this case, on diesel engines
and petrol + automatic transmission there is no 1s speed at all or
BOTH fans because at this speed they are connected SEQUENCE,
and one without the other can not work.

It is not excluded also the malfunction of the electric motor in

consequence of a short circuit in turns of a winding of a rotor. The
result is an increased current consumption, a burnout of the thermal
fuse. But this is extremely rare, the primary source is the mechanical
wedging of the fan, as a rule.

The main , but not the only, reason for the lack of small rotation
speeds on Astrakh and Zafirah is the banal decay and destruction of the
resistance spiral, as can be seen from the 2 nd and 3 rd photos. Also
this fact confirms my experience with these cars. The same story on
Korsah-D, but there resistance can be replaced separately. Such a
malfunction DOES NOT light a fault lamp, the car is operated at an
elevated operating temperature, which can be observed in the BC test
mode.
The second sore spot is the wiring harness from the fuse box under the
hood (UEC) to the engine ECU (ECM). This tourniquet comes out
from under the platform of the battery makes a bend of 90 * and goes
to the engine ECU connector. That's right at the point of bending the
wires are rubbed with plastic corrugation, then they simply rot, it turns
out to be a breakage. It happens that the wires rot in an undamaged
shell. Often the wires that go just in time to the fan relay suffer. This
fault Ignite the fault lamp when the fan is attempting to start. On the
pictures Zafira-B.
All the pictures are clickable. The actual size is 3264 x 2448 pixels,
2MB .

Photo from Astra-H (thanks to Mr.T ):

http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-%D...=1#post4732127

Basically, the wires are rubbed in place of fastening the plait with
plastic clips (photo from OVC 18XER, but the principle is the same):

Example of a sequential diagnosis of a non-permanent fault (the

fan fuse burns at some point in time):
The history of the disease ... Panic, in general

Message from svgastra

Astra GTC 2007, 1.8 HER, automatic transmission, chip, 2 propellers

...
The error is always the same and the same 0482 .... short on the supply
chain of the third speed of the fan ... or an error in the control
of the relay 3 speeds
Or at me that same does not work the first? begins with the second?

the machine lights up, like a faulty THIRD fan speed, and I only have
2 of them ... although 3 relays .... or still 3 speeds? .... can catch fire at
any time, and when the temperature of the engine is 60 degrees .....
why the machine at 60 g trying to switch already 3 speed fan ??
NAHERA ??? Che for her nada ???????????????

Instead of 30 amp fuse put 40 .... wait ......

I took the car in the winter, I did not check the kondey, I started to cut
the kondeye, I did not work ... the day was beaten ... I found ...
someone deep in the brains removed the presence of the air conditioner
..... they put a tick, the kondey went, but became to light up the
machine with the cl .. ..... then intentionally the previous owner
knocked out the condo .... but what's the ambush? All fans are
spinning .... easily .....

The wires were checked, there were no shorts .... the relays were
changed ... the pressure was coming up. SPECIALS WERE WERE
watching (but to whom schA to believe?) .... forcibly turns on
everything okay, but when the bridge is set to the fan of the engine at
the maximum, 5 squares hot ... the propeller kondeya seems to be
constantly spinning ... but the master let him barely spin, and then he
started up at full speed ..... at the same time a few speeds?

Yes, I repeat ..... I put the new 30 amp fuse on the third fan speed
chain, start, the machine is not hot ... a little bit less start-up the
machine with the key lights up ... I open the fuse box- 30 amp. Burned
.. error 482 ... and so 5 times ..... but can travel and half a day and do
not catch the error ..... no pattern .... that's while half a day went with
40 ampere-yet quiet .... there is also why then it is indicated that there
can be as much as 30 and 40 ampere fuses .. why? .. I originally had 30
...
can the sawdust itself periodically tests the fan .... tries to turn it on
max ..... and burns 30 amp ...... but what burns ...?

Originally Posted by StroginOpel

http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-%D...=1#post4558694
 The answer will be a little tough, but I hope I understand.
My sarcasm is not addressed personally to you, it's rather rhetorically
... all ... By example I'll try to show how simple enough methods of
fault diagnosis are implemented.
And you must understand, finally, that by means of the Internet /
phone it is quite difficult to diagnose a malfunction without seeing the
subject and knowing nothing about it at all. Therefore, the more
detailed the description of the problem and the subject itself, the more
likely we will succeed in troubleshooting.

Let's start ...

Before you tear your hair, you should carefully read the topic that
interests you. It is advisable to use in addition to the forum a
specialized technical, but not artistic literature.
Determine which / which fans you have installed. How to do this is
shown here
Determined that the fans are installed

Originally Posted by StroginOpel

0130303 313 (390mm) single-speed cooling fan motor, installed in

tandem with
0130303 303 (312mm) single-speed fan of the air conditioner (blower
fan, installed in front of the radiator of the air conditioner).
In this case, there are no quenching resistors and thermal fuses - a
completely reliable switching circuit. In order to disrupt its operation,
it is necessary to disable the fan itself , which is quite difficult.

Further, in order to understand the causes of the malfunction, an

electric circuit is needed. Where, b ..., her take something ?? You can,
of course, look in the books, but the accuracy will be doubtful. It is
best to install TIS2000

Originally Posted by StroginOpel

For all:
if you have an irresistible desire to repair or diagnose the work of the
car yourself, why not get the necessary documentation for this ???
TIS-2000 is a beautiful and accurate program for this. It contains a
search for fault codes, service information and elegant ELECTRICAL
WIRES. Registration for viewing all this is not necessary (the program
in this part is free). Do not regret 4GB of disk space, it will help you a
lot. TIS-2000 can be taken on rutrekker, freely. I recommend the
version 110.

Download, installed (nothing complicated in this NO if you own a

computer and can write on forums), chose a car, look at the scheme ...
 and what do we see there ?? Yeshin cat, two betray to 40A, fuck !!!
And in books you can write and 30 can ... Only little books (manuals),
they are common for all models published. Did not think about it,
huh?
Okay, we analyze the scheme and your situation. The fuse burns
when the second fan speed is turned on (there are only two of them for
you).
What kind of pre is burning ?? The number was not told to me, to eat
... Well, okay, I'll try to guess

Message from svgastra

... when the jumper starts the engine fan to the maximum, the wire
jumper cross section 1.5 square hot ...

Yeah ... big fan, then FE5 is on. Soon and at 40A will begin to burn.
After all, write that the wires are heated ... Opa-nky, and they are on
1.5 square meters of everything ... And on the scheme that? FOUR!!!
By itself heating on any thoughts does not bring ??? Inter-turn
closure, wedging or destruction of fan bearings, just dirt inside the fan
motor, pinched or ground wires, etc. Perhaps the car was in an
accident, incorrectly collected later. Kondey is probably not in vain
"unsubscribed." Okay...

The summary is as follows: leave the pre at 40A, carefully inspect the
power wires to the large fan from the fuse block. If the wires are all
right, but it will start to burn and 40A, change the big fan if by that
time the wiring does not flow. Also understand, once stood before at
30A and everything worked for the time being, and then it began to
burn, then the problem is PRESENT and progresses (either with wires
or with a fan). Normally working 313 fan quietly starts from scratch
through 30A, not to mention the previously untwisted on the 1st speed.

If I made a mistake (which is unlikely, based on the DTC P0482) and

the FE6 fuse burns, we do all the above for a small fan (it's also an air
conditioning fan, it's also a blower, it's also a 303rd fan)

Oh yeah ... And what about the error P0482 - Breakage or high
voltage relay 3rd speed fan? Are there two of them? How so?
Again, we look at the circuit and understand that to activate the 1st
speed only one relay K12 should operate (the fans are connected in
series, 6-7V each), and to activate the 2nd speed (parallel connection
of the fans, 12-14V on each each) it is necessary to include all three
relays and for this it is necessary to use 3 channels of the engine ECU,
incl. and a 3rd speed channel that activates the relay K11, which is
protected by a fuse FE5, which is lit because of a failure of the fan or
wiring, which it also protects FE5.
Here is a "House that Jack built" is obtained

I'll answer a few more questions:

Message from svgastra

... a little shorter start-up machine with a key lights up ... I open the
fuse box-30 ampere burned .. error 482 ... and so 5 times ..... but can
travel half a day and not catch the error ... no regularities ... and burns
30 amperes ... but what burns ...?

Well than zhget something figured out, sort of ...

About the regularity: the condom activated, now with the included
ride? Then read the message CAREFULLY №102 , in the part
addressed to -suba- . I can also add that programmatically foresee the
inclusion of maximum fan speed and the activation of the thermostat
heater with a sudden increase in the load on the engine, i.е. when the
throttle is opened sharply.
Also you can get acquainted with information on the cooling system
generally. Written for Vectra, but the principle is the same for XER
and XEP motors.

Learn the materiel that you own, and do not have to give money in
vain, and even save a bunch of nerves.
Good luck in the repair.
* Details are not important, but the general approach
* ECM - engine control unit
* UEC - under-the-hood electronic unit (fuse box)

Diesel: alternately the big and small fans refuse. There are at the
same time two faults. The manifestation depends on the heating:

Description of the problem (it is necessary to give credit, very detailed

and understandable):

Originally Posted by serg2007

In general, I do not know where to dig further ...

I checked everything, the resistors-fans, the wiring (I removed the
engine compartment, almost exhausted) - everything is everywhere
good.
Fans work like this:
 1) Condaya is off - the cooling fan (on the motor side) 1st speed -
through the resistor on at 96, the second at 105 the fan of condesia is
always silent! - so always - there are no problems here. And it's so
hard to warm up to 105 degrees ......
2) Condo is included: works differently.
option 1: on kondey, turn on both fans at low speed (in series 6 volts)
then as the heat is on, both fans for the 2nd speed (resistors - 9 volts)
above 95 degrees do not raise the nada not really! only at a speed
under 150-160 and in the hill rises to 100 - this kind of work suits me!
and where here the 3rd speed is not at all clear. - and apparently it's
correct BUT it does not often work that way.
The bowl works according to the 2-nd option:
option 2: on the conduit, both fans are turned on at low speed (6 volts
in series), then as the fan blower is turned on (the resistors are 9 volts)
and the cooling fan turns off at all !!!!! Next, heating up to 105 heaps
and both fans turn on at full speed - cool down to 95-96 and again only
1 fan (kondeya) at the 2nd speed .... But if at the time of overheating to
100 and above degrees turn off the condo - it is triggered scheme of the
engine cooling fan as without kondey.

Vobschem where to dig I do not know already ... I will remind you,
the Machine - Opel Astra 1,3 diesel.

Analysis of the algorithm of work and solution search:

Originally Posted by StroginOpel

serg2007

Detailed description, thank you. So after all, they practically found

the problem ... Can not you see it, or rather, them? There are two of
them, judging by your description. One of them is described in the
cited message, as a known malfunction is the 1 st fan.

On item 1: How it "there are no problems" ??? Why 1_d fan

(kondeya) does not work? Scheme is the same before the eyes. The
activation circuit of each speed is ONE on the BOTH fan. How many
times to repeat something ?? At the first speed the fans are connected
SEQUENTLY !!! Those. one without another will NOT work. Either
BOTH, or none.
"1st speed - through the resistor on at 96" - At the first and third
speeds, the resistors are not involved at all. "Second to 105" is the
third, directly to each motor.

We draw conclusions: 1_i speed is absent on BOTH fans due to

malfunction of 1_go (small) fan. At 2_ and 3_d speeds, the small does
not work for the same reason. Large works, because At these speeds,
the fans are electrically independent of each other. Check with
jumpers, see ibid., Make sure that no fan is working at closing the relay
contacts K2 (speed 1).
 According to paragraph 2: option 1: of course suits - this is the
NORMAL operation of the system, it is impossible to heat up the
diesel without the load.
Option 2: at the second speed, the cooling fan (large) is turned off, but
the small one is working. How is that??? After all, they say that they
must always together, they lie or what? We look, through what
elements are the fans activated at the second speed? On the circuit,
these chains were even marked out in red by a good man for clarity ...
True, a large one - through K30 A medium power contacts; small -
through K30 A, the extreme power contacts and K30 V. The big one
does not work - we look at the middle contacts of K30A.

But how? Why do fans with and without kondeya work differently?
It should not be! Activates the ECM relay, the on / off of the Condé is
activated - the order of the fans is not changed, only the temperature
threshold is shifted. And why does a small fan work when it is
claimed that it is faulty ??? He sometimes works!

Question: what has changed in comparison with item 1? That's right,

they turned on the condo. So what? What has changed something
else, eh? True, the radiator kondeya began to get very hot ... And who
lives on the radiator kondeya? I'll go look .... They are, they are born!
Small fan and relay K30A

The confirmation:

Originally Posted by serg2007

I opened the relay (a metal hacksaw and a big answering machine

helped me) - the burned contacts on the big fan, there is a relay for 2 *
25A - that could not stand it.
eventually cut everything off. And I put 2 relays on 40 A normal (in
the parallel) - everything works.
Now it is necessary somehow this all to seal with a sealant what to
protect from a moisture.
Small (front) fan served, brushed the inside and brush assembly - 1st
speed is there!

Interchangeability of fans and Solutions for their repair:

In the case of ONE- and TWO-speed fans, there are enough budget
solutions, even if you have to change the fan. The electric motors,
connectors and flange of the impellers of these fans are the same.
Those. if the native impeller is saved, then almost any fan can be used
for replacement.
The only limitation is: without permutation of the resistor connector,
the ONE-speed fan can be replaced by a TWO-speed fan, but not vice
versa. But the resistor is fixed to the usual soldering, the
rearrangement of its problems does not cause.

Removing and installing fan:

1. Remove the upper part of the front panel (6 bolts for 13 mm key),
take it to the side. Do not damage the shock sensor wiring !!!
2. To turn off two bolts of fastening of a radiator diffuser (a head E8).
3. Disconnect all clamps securing the wiring harness to the diffuser,
disconnect the fan connector (bottom).
4. Pull up the diffuser together with the fan.
5. Remove the resistor connector from the diffuser (surround the Torx
screw # 20)
6. Remove the fan assembly from the diffuser (three Torx screws #
25). Do not lose the fixing bolts!

0130303313 - take 0130303 245 or analogs (see below), remove all

unnecessary plugs from the connector: protective mesh, additional
resistor, thermal term, as well as protruding contacts to which they are
attached. We put everything in regular places. Or you can not cut
anything from the fan, and cut the plug in the diffuser, where the
connector is fixed, and install the 245th fan as is, the middle pin of the
connector will simply not be used.

0130303303 - take 0130303 302 or 0130303 247 (312mm), remove all

unnecessary plugs from the connector: protective mesh, additional
resistor, thermal term, as well as protruding contacts to which they
were attached. We put everything in regular places. Or you can not
cut anything off the fan, and cut the plug in the diffuser, where the
connector is fixed, and install the 302th fan as is, the middle pin of the
connector will simply not be used.
Or you can use the 245th or analogs (see below) as a replacement for
the 302/303 / 304th (small) electric motor, but only if the impeller is
kept small.

0130303314/0130303299/0130303245 - nothing should be done at

all, they are completely interchangeable. Slightly different power and
departure (but the reserve to the radiator is enough). Or you can use
0130303247/0130303302 (312mm) without any modifications, if the
"large" impeller has survived ..
Resistors can be repaired (technologically, see below) or replaced with
new ones, they remain with me from the redesigned fans for OVC.

*** There are other rooms, but these are the most profitable for the
price, and they are available in stores.

0130303298 and 0130303300 -Fully interchangeable among

themselves, but here it is more difficult to repair ... But you can also do
it. The downside is that it is necessary to remove the fan for normal
repair of the resistor.
1. Switching power circuits of the fan, bypassing the burned resistor
element, THANKS, romer : http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-
%D...=1#post6444290 and voode : http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-
%D...=1#post7903142

!!! Actually ONLY for the Astra-H release before 07.2005 with the
motor z16XEP, tk. Only in this version THREE high-speed fans were
used, but only TWO speeds are used (it is 1st in the account,
programmatically).
For the Astra-G this decision is UNFULFILLABLE!

!!! Remember !!! The current is large, the connections must be

qualitative: special connectors, rolling, soldering, heat shrinkage with
sealant.

2. Replacement of the 298 / 300_go on the 0130303245/299 / 314th

fan: http://astraclub.ru/threads/61439-%D...=1#post4544834

Connector 300_go fan from the wiring harness side of the car (not the
fan) is shown in the photo on the left. Connector 245/299 / 314_go is
shown in the photo to the right.
To put instead of the 300th 245/299 / 314th fan you will have to put
another connector and terminals on the wiring harness of the car (not
the fan). The connectors are different and the terminals on the wires
are also different . Such connectors can be found on the dismantling of
Vectra-B

Farther:
- the red-black thick wire from terminal 1 of the standard connector is
connected to terminal 1 of the new
- Thick brown wire from terminal 4 of the standard connector - to
terminal 3 of the new
- Red and white wire from terminal 2 of the standard connector - to
terminal 2 of the new
- The red and yellow wire must be insulated and secured so that it
does not hang (it is not used)

!!! Actually ONLY for the Astra-H release before 07.2005 with the
motor z16XEP, tk. Only in this version THREE high-speed fans were
used, but only TWO speeds are used (it is 1st in the account,
programmatically).
For the Astra-G this decision is UNFULFILLABLE!

!!! Remember !!! The current is large, the connections must be

qualitative: special connectors, rolling, soldering, heat shrinkage with
sealant.

3. Resetting the resistor. If the resistor remains intact, but the fan itself
is faulty: the impeller is jammed, the impeller is broken, the electric
motor is faulty, then you can take any fan from: 245/299/314/313 (or
any other BOSCH with an impeller size of 390 mm), remove the fan
connector of these fans and install a native resistor in its place. Wires
are fixed by rolling and soldering.

!!! Remember !!! The current is large, the connections must be

qualitative: special connectors, rolling, soldering, heat shrinkage with
sealant.

Cheap analogs of the 298th and 300th fans do not. I mean BOSH, not
China Galimov and GAZ with Kalina The consequences of the
installation of the last owners of the OVC felt to the full ... Also, I do
not recommend installing fans whose fan sizes are less than the
replaced ones by more than 10mm. Twist such a fan of course will,
but to cool the engine - no.

Repair of resistors:

Replacement of thermal fuse (does not depend on type of resistor)

Measure the resistance of the thermal fuse with the tester. The
serviceable should be 0 ohms (ZERO Om). If this is not the case, the
tester displays an infinite resistance or "1" (digital), the thermal fuse
must be replaced.
The element itself is cut off, the legs are left, we clean it, we provide
it. Solder on the legs of the old new thermal fuse. The solder is better
to use with a melting point of less than 200 * C. During soldering, the
soldering iron can not be held for a long time, otherwise it is possible
to burn a new thermocouple. After soldering, we check the integrity of
the new thermal fuse, its resistance should be 0 Ω (ZERO Om).
* The photo shows a resistor from Corsa-D (it was not suitable at
hand), but the principle is the same.
The standard resistor BOSCH is equipped with a thermal fuse at 216 *
C 15A (marking 216 KR1).

IMPORTANT!!! The parameters of the new thermal fuse must in

no case exceed the parameters of the standard one. Otherwise,
ignition of the vehicle, starting with the diffuser, is possible.

Resistor - "spring" - two series resistor connected to 0.24 Ohm.

(298th) and one resistor 0.24 Ohm (245/299/314).
Repair of these resistors is quite simple. Basically, the resistor's leg
rotates next to the rolling site, see the photo. You can unscrew one
turn of the burned / decayed resistor and fasten (rolling) to the old
place, after cleaning the connection place. The loss of one coil of
resistance will not affect the operation of the system as a whole,
believe me. If it is necessary to replace the resistance in its entirety, it
is possible to use a nichrome wire of suitable diameter or ready
resistance with a power of at least 30W. Also, if necessary, a thermal
override is replaced.

Ceramic resistor (300th) - two series resistor connected to 0.24 Ohm.

Resistors are repaired by building a nichrome wire with a subsequent
coating of a heat-resistant hermetic (for stoves or silencers). If
necessary, a thermal fuse is replaced.

I want to make a reservation right away, the repair is quite

troublesome, but at the cost of these fans from 7 to 16 thousand rubles,
there is something to think about ...
 1. Left - installation (soldering) of two resistors from 245th was made.
Pros:
- repair takes a couple of hours together with removal / installation of
the fan;
- if the thermal fuse does not work, the solder from the heating will
melt.
Minuses:
- An acid flux is used to solder the nichrome, which is not very good
for the durability of the joint, considering our winter reagents;
- it is difficult to find (for a typical user) resistance for such a
replacement.

2. On the right - the nichrome thread of the resistor is restored and

covered with a high-temperature sealant.
Pros:
- If desired, you can do without even additional growth of rotted
(nichrome) threads, i.e. additional repair parts are not required.
Minuses:
- the sealant completely dries in 24 hours, i.e. You stay a day without
a car;
- the coating does not withstand the "winter" operation and large
temperature differences, crack and burst, we get a repetition of the
malfunction, repair only for the season ...

3. For the Astra-H z16XEP before 2005. we use solutions from romer
and voode with switching of power circuits of the fan, described also
in the previous chapter.

Yes, anyone who is confused by the loud fan operation or a very fast transition to the
maximum speed of rotation, I highly recommend that you wash the radiators with the
removal of one of them. Even if the radiators seem clean enough, rinse. The effect will
shake you, believe me.
Link to the finished article on the topic at the vector club: http://vectra-
club.ru/forum/viewtopi...54708#p2791011

All of the above applies fully to cars Opel Zafira-B

PS! I could not decide in which topic to write, but I met a friend ... r075uk , hello