Bernie Sanders
Mittens Doll
Crochet Pattern
TobeyTimeCrochet.com
TobeyTimeCrochet.Etsy.com
TobeyTimeCrochet@gmail.com
By Tobey King
Thank you!
Thank you so much for purchasing my first pattern! I appreciate
you so much. If you have any questions, need help with the pattern
or just want to give feedback please send me an email
tobeytimecrochet@gmail.com. You are welcome to sell finished dolls
made from this pattern. Please give credit for the pattern to Tobey
King from TobeyTimeCrochet. Follow me on social media
(Instagram, Facebook) @tobeytimecrochet. Also, please tag me in
your Bernie doll photos or use #tobeytimebernie I would love to see!
*Do not sell, change or claim this pattern as your own.
1
Important Notes
*Review the entire pattern before you begin.
*Approximately 9” tall. This doll is made to sit.
*This doll is not intended to be a child’s toy. You can make this doll
child friendly by not using wire and plastic safety eyes.
*I used “On a Wire” 16gauge aluminum wire found in the jewelry
department of Hobby Lobby. If not using this exact wire, make sure
your wire is pliable, I have made the mistake of purchasing copper
wire which is awfully hard to shape.
*Most of the doll is made in the round without joining. Move stitch
marker to the first stitch of each round.
*The mittens include 4 rows of the waistcoast stitch that give the
look of “knit”. If you are unfamiliar with this stitch RepeatCrafterMe
has a great tutorial or search YouTube for beginner tutorials. If you
find the stitch too difficult, just crochet regular stitches.
Materials
*Worsted weight/size 4 yarn in *Poly-fil Polyester stuffing
colors *Fabri-tac glue or craft glue of
Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn: your choice
Light peach, White, Black, *Tapestry needle
Brown, Cream, Toasted *Scissors
Almond *Jewelry wire cutters, needle
Hobby Lobby I Love This nose pliers
Cotton: Olive *Pet slicker brush small
*Felt in baby blue *Stitch marker
*Embroidery Floss
*Small piece of cardboard
DMC Grey #648
DMC White
*Black 9mm safety eyes
*3.5mm hook
*16gauge aluminum craft wire
silver
Terms
ss-slip stitch dc-double crochet
st- stitch BLO-back loop only
sc-single crochet FLO-front loop only
hdc-half double crochet
2
picot-ch2, ss in 2nd chain from Boop Bobble - yo, insert hook
the hook in next stitch, yo and pull up a
invdec- invisible decrease, loop (3 loops on the hook), yo
place hook through the front and insert hook into the same
loop of two consecutive stitch, yo and pull up a loop (5
stitches, yarn over and pull up loops on the hook), yo and
a loop (two loops on the hook) insert hook into the same
yarn over and pull through two stitch, yo and pull up a loop (7
loops. loops on the hook) yo and pull
sc2tog- single crochet two through all loops.
together insert hook into first Hdcdec- Half double crochet
stitch and pull up a loop, decrease. Yo, insert hook in the
insert hook into next stitch and next stitch, yo and pull up a
pull up a loop (3 loops on the loop, yo and insert hook into
hook) yarn over and pull the next stitch , yo and pull up
through all 3 loops. a loop, yo and pull through all
BLO sc2tog- same as above loops.
but in back loop only
Body
Body and head are one piece
Round 1. With black, 6sc in a magic circle, pull tight (6)
Round 2. 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3. (2sc in the next, 1sc) Repeat around (18)
Round 4. (2sc in the next, 1sc in the next 2) Repeat around (24)
Round 5. (2sc in the next, 1sc in the next 3) Repeat around (30)
Round 6-11. 1sc around (30) Cut a small round piece of cardboard
to fit inside the bottom of the body. This will help Bernie sit better.
You can also add weight such as pellets if you choose.
*Change to white
Round 12. (invdec, 1sc in the next 3) Repeat around (24)
3
Round 13-18. 1sc around (24)
Round 19. (invdec, 1sc in the next 2) Repeat around (18)
Start stuffing as you go
Round 20. (invdec, 1sc) Repeat around (12)
*Change to peach
Round 21. (sc2tog, 1sc in the next 2) Repeat around (9)
Finish stuffing the body
Round 22. (2sc in first st, 1sc in the next 2) Repeat around (12)
Round 23. 2sc in next 4 st, invdec twice, 2sc in the next 4st (18)
Round 24. 2sc in the next, 1sc in the next 6, 2sc in next 4, 1sc in
the next 6, 2sc in last st (24)
Round 25. (2sc in the first st, 1sc in the next 3) 3 times, (1sc in the
next 3, 2sc in the next) 3 times (30)
Round 26-27. 1sc around (30)
Round 28. 1sc in the next 15, boop bobble stitch in the next, 1sc in
the next 14 (30)
Round 29-31. 1sc around (30)
*Place the plastic safety eyes one row above the nose, 5 stitches
apart. Or I prefer to wait until the head is stuffed and closed and
then place the eyes with adhesive.
Round 32. (invdec, 1sc in the next 3) Repeat around (24)
Round 33. (invdec, 1sc in the next 2) Repeat around (18)
Start stuffing the head. Continue stuffing as you go.
Round 34. (invdec, 1sc) Repeat around (12)
Round 35. invdec around (6)
*Cut yarn, pull out of the loop and weave through each of the 6
front loops of the last round and pull tight, weave end.
*I did not use a wooden dowel through the head and body but add
one if you feel your head will need more support before closing the
top of the head.
4
Legs
Legs are made starting from the shoe. Make two.
With brown
Round 1. Ch9, starting in 2nd ch from the hook 1sc in the next 6
chs, 2sc in the next 2 chs, now working on the other side of the chs,
2sc in the next 2 chs, 1sc in the next 6 chs. (20)
*Special instructions for Round 2- insert hook into the ch1 and pull
up a loop, insert hook into the bl of the first stitch and pull up a
loop, yo and pull through all loops. This will close any gaps from the
beginning chains. Continue with the round.
Round 2. BLO 1sc around (20)
Round 3. 1sc in the next 4, invdec 6 times, 1sc in the next 4 (14)
Round 4. 1sc in the next 5, invdec 2 times, 1sc in the next 5 (12)
Round 5. 1sc in the next 2, invdec 4 times, 1sc in the next 2 (8)
Change to black
Round 6. BLO 1sc around (8)
Round 7-18. 1sc around (8)
Start stuffing the shoe and continue stuffing the leg lightly as you
go. If you plan to add wire to your legs you do not want there to be
too much stuffing in the way.
Cut yarn, pull one end of the yarn out of the loop and use tapestry
needle to join to the next stitch. Leave a tail long enough to sew the
legs to the body.
Add wire to your legs. Cut a length of wire that equals the length of
both legs and then some. Find where your legs will be sewn on the
body and insert a hook into one stitch and out the other stitch to
make a path for the wire. Replace with wire. With your needle nose
pliers curl each end of the wire. Again, take your hook and insert
into the leg on top of the stuffing and push down into the shoe to
make a path for the wire. Slide the wire into the legs and sew to the
body.
5
Flatten the top opening of the legs and sew to Rounds 5 and 6 to
the center of the body. I mark the center and sew the legs right next
to each other.
Mittens/Arms
Make two.
You will start with the mittens and work your way up to the top of
the arm. *Please read the notes section on the Waistcoat stitch.
Round 1. With cream Ch5, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook 1sc
in the next 4 chs, now working on the other side of the chs, 1sc in
the next 4 chs (8)
*Change to toasted almond
Round 2. 1sc around (8)
*Change to brown. You will now begin the Waistcoat stitch for
Rounds 3-6. I suggest not stitching tightly for these rounds.
Round 3. 1sc around (8)
*Change to toasted almond
Round 4. 1sc in the next 4, you will now create the thumb- ch3, sc
in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the 3rd ch, ss in the same 3rd ch,
1sc in the next 4 (8)
*Change to cream
Round 5. 1sc around (8) make sure to crochet behind the thumb,
stitches will curl into thumb shape.
6
*Change to brown
Round 6. 1sc around (8)
Round 7-8. Resume regular crochet stitches 1sc around (8)
*Change to white or shirt color
Round 9. BLO (sc2tog, 1sc in the next 2) twice (6)
Round 10-21. 1sc around (6)
*Note I made the arms a little longer so they cross better in front,
add or subtract rows if needed.
Cut yarn, pull one end of the yarn out of the loop and use tapestry
needle to join to the next stitch.
Stuff the mittens and no need to stuff the arms.
Also, with matching yarn thread through the ends of the mittens
(fingertips) to close up any gaps the wire might poke through.
Place the arms next to the body and measure the length of wire you
will need. Use wire cutters or scissors to cut the wire.
Use the blunt end of a small crochet hook and put through the
body evenly on each side just below the neck to find the right place
to sew your arms on. Pull the hook out and replace with the wire.
Use pliers or your fingers to curl the ends of the wire.
With thumbs sideways facing front, sew arms on.
7
Eyes- If you haven’t added the eyes yet, do so now. Squeeze a little
Fabri-Tac inside the eye hole and press the eye inside.
Ears- Make two, magic circle, 3sc, pull tight and do not join. Sew 4
stitches away from each eye. Your ear should have two ends. Use
one end to sew into the stitch in the same row as the eye and the
other end will go two stitches below.
Hair
With white
Row 1. Ch21, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook 1sc across, ch1,
turn (20)
Row 2. Sc2tog, 1sc in the next 16, sc2tog, ch1, turn (18)
Row 3. 1sc across, ch1, turn (18)
Row 4. Sc2tog, 1sc in the next 14, sc2tog, ch1, turn (16)
Row 5- 7. 1sc across, cut yarn, leave a long tail to sew
Add or subtract rows if needed for your particular head.
Wrap the hair piece around the back of the head and two rows
above the ears. Row 1 will be on top and the shorter rows at the
bottom.
Sew around all edges, weave in ends.
Use the pet slicker brush to brush out all the fibers of the hair
making sure to protect the ears.
Cut 4 pieces of yarn about 4” long.
Fold yarn in half and loop 1 strand to the hair piece above each ear
and two strands to the top center right (for the comb over).
Brush the strands out, trim and style.
8
Eyelids- Cut a long strand of peach and weave loosely over the top
of each eye over three stitches.
Eyebrows- With DMC grey embroidery floss stitch the eyebrows
above the eyelids over two stitches.
Mask- with baby blue felt cut the shape of a mask. Cut two short
lengths of white embroidery floss and glue them to the back of the
mask (the side that will not show). I did not make my mask
removable and glued the bottom of the mask to the chin to have a
more fitted look. Place the mask on before fitting the glasses. The
glasses sit better if the mask is not too high on the nose.
Glasses-With 16gauge aluminum wire use your fingers to shape the
glasses. The shape to achieve is a rounded rectangle.
9
Bend the wire with your fingers to shape the first half of the frames
working the wire to the front.
As you work hold the glasses up to the face and nose for measuring
out the right size and height of the nose bridge.
Continue bending the wire with your fingers to shape the other half
now working the wire to the back. The eyes are close together and
there should be little space between the eyes.
This may take several tries if you have never worked with wire
before.
10
Place the glasses on the face and bend the arms behind the ears.
Adjust the glasses where needed to fit well on the face. Use Fabri-
tac behind each ear. Press ears back over the wire and glue until it
dries enough to stay in place.
Coat
The coat will start with 3 rows of the upper back panel and then
yarn is cut. Next you will join to the beginning row to create the first
front panel, start 3 rows and cut yarn. Then you will join again on
the other side to create the other front panel and start 3 rows, do
not cut the yarn. At this point, weave in any loose ends. You will
11
then crochet across to join the 3 pieces together as you go. This will
create the armholes. You will turn at the end of each row.
I Love This Cotton Olive
Upper backside panel of the coat
Row 1. ch12, starting in 3rd ch from the hook, 1hdc in the next 10,
ch2, turn (10)
Row 2. 2hdc, hdc in the next 8, 2hdc in the last, ch2, turn (12)
Row 3. 2hdc, hdc in the next 10, 2hdc in the last, ch2, cut yarn
(14)
Cut yarn, leave a little length for weaving in.
Join to one end of the first row of the backside to begin first front
panel with a ch2
First front panel
Row 1. 2hdc in the same space as the join, 1hdc in the next, ch4,
turn (3)
Row 2. 1hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1hdc in the next ch, 1hdc
in the next 2, 2hdc in the last, ch2, turn (6)
Row 3. 1hdc in the next 5, 2hdc in last, ch2, (7)
Cut yarn, leave a little length for weaving in
12
Join yarn at the other end of the beginning row of the upper
backside. Do not cut yarn at the end. You should have 6 sts in
between the panels.
Second front panel
Row 1. Join, ch2, 2hdc in the same space as the join, 1hdc in the
next, ch4, turn (3)
Row 2. 1hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1hdc in the next ch, 1hdc
in the next 2, 2hdc in the last, ch2, turn (6)
Row 3. 1hdc in the next 5, 2hdc in last, ch2, (7)
Do not cut yarn. Weave in the other loose ends to one side of the
coat, this will be the inside of the coat. If you are looking at your
work as seen in this photo, weave your ends to the side showing in
this picture.
Row 4. Picking up where you left off, ch2, turn, 1hdc in the next 7,
Pick up the back panel, you will now crochet into the back panel to
join, 2hdc, 1hdc in the next 12, 2hdc in the last, you should now be
at the other end of the back panel and ready to join the next front
panel, 1hdc in the next 7, ch2, turn (30) This will create the
armholes.
Row 5 – Row 12. 1hdc in each, ch2, turn (30) Make sure you end
on an even row and that your weaved in beginning ends are hidden
on the inside of the coat.
13
Do not cut yarn. You will now turn to work up along the edge
toward the top of the coat.
Continuation of Row 12. Sc evenly up until you reach the collar
area (approx 16 stitches). Ch3, picot, hdc in the same stitch,
continue to hdc around the back of the collar to the other side
(stitch count may vary). When you make your way around to the
other side and complete the second to the last hdc of the collar area
ch2, picot, hdc in the next stitch. You should now be at a place to
start sc’s evenly down the other side of the coat.
When you reach the bottom corner, ch1, turn to work along the
bottom of the coat. 1sc in each (30) Leave a long tail, pull the end of
the yarn out of the loop and use tapestry needle to join to the next
stitch. Leave the long tail and move it to the side and work on the
sleeves. You will use this tail later to sew up the front once it is
already on the doll.
Sleeves
14
Join yarn at the bottom of the armhole. Join at the end of each
round but do not turn. Alternatively, do not join but make sure to
sew up any openings at the armpit of the sleeve.
Round 1. Sc evenly around the armhole 13sc, join to the 1st sc,
ch2 (13)
Round 2. Starting in the same stitch as join, hdcdec, 1 hdc in the
next 11, join, ch2 (12)
Round 3. Hdcdec, 1hdc in the next 10, join, ch2 (11)
Round 4. Hdcdec, 1hdc in the next 9, join, ch2 (10)
Round 5-7. 1hdc around (10)
Weave in both ends.
Repeat Rounds 1-7 for second sleeve.
Mittens may be hard to get through the sleeves. I used a tapesty
needle to help pull it through.
Place the coat on the doll and use the long tail to sew your tapestry
needle through both loops up the front of the coat all the way up
tightly to the neck.
The Hood
I made the hood mostly for show. You will have to make the hood
much bigger if you want him to actually wear it.
Round 1. Magic circle 6sc, pull tight, don’t join. (6)
Round 2. 2sc in each around (12)
Round 3. (2sc in the next, 1sc in the next) repeat around (18)
Round 4. (2sc in the next, 1sc in the next 2) around (24)
Round 5-7. 1sc around (24)
Sew to the top center of the collar
15
Thank You!
16
17
