GOAN FOOD
INTRODUCTION
The unique cuisine of Goa developed out of a merger of various cultures that
it came into contact with over the centuries such as the Portuguese, Arab,
Brazilian, African, French, Konkani, Malabari, Malaysian and Chinese. The
three major communities of Goa - Hindus, Muslims, and Christians, contribute
to the culinary tradition in their own manner. The Konkan farmers and
fishermen consume fish and rice on a wide scale. The Christian community
patronises items such as beef, seafood, and pork. The intermixing of multiple
cultural elements is mirrored within the cuisine of Goa in a distinctive mix of
richness and subtlety.
The most significant overseas cultural influence came from the Portuguese
beginning in the 16th century CE. In 1510, the Portuguese general
Albuquerque captured Goa from the Sultan of Bijapur. This resulted in the
introduction of novel culinary items to the region such as potatoes, chilies,
tomatoes, cashew, pineapple, bread, vinegar, and different kinds of meats.
Goa came to be known as „Goa Dourada‟ or Golden Goa, owing to the beauty
and prosperity of the region. It had lucrative ports that facilitated trade with the
West, ranging from Chinese silk to asafoetida.
Goa‟s colonial past left an indelible mark on its cuisine. The new culinary
practices were rooted in traditional Portuguese dishes and ways of cooking. A
classic example of Portuguese influence on the food of Goa is that the cuisine
includes vinegar, an otherwise uncommon ingredient in traditional Indian
cooking. Before the coming of the Portuguese, the Goan diet used to include
flatbreads such as rotis and chappatis. The Portuguese brought with them the
distinctive bread known as Pao. Since then, bread has become an integral
part of the diet for the Goans, especially the Christian community. There are
also variations in the preparations of the Goan Hindu and Goan Christian
communities. The dishes popular among the Hindu Goan community make
wide use of tamarind and kokum to induce a sourish flavour. In contrast, the
dishes of the Goan Christians make wide use of vinegar. The Goan Christian
culinary tradition over time was also influenced by Konkani, British, Saraswat,
and South Indian cuisines, apart from the Portuguese.
Equipments Used In The Goan Food
Clay Pots: Most of the Goan cooking is done in the earthen pots. The use of
the earthen pots improve the flavor of the food and in these vessels, it does
not get spoilt easily. A classic example is the Goan fish curry, which when
kept for a day in this vessel tastes even better.
Brass utensils: Pots and pans of brass are commonly used in cooking
desserts. This is because of the fact that the thick and heavy bottom metal
prevents the sticking of jaggery and coconut to the bottom.
Varn: It is a grinding stone which has a round stone that is moved around in
circular motions to grind and make pastes of spice.
Dantem: This equipment is used for grinding the cereals. It consists of two
wheel-shaped stones fitted on top of each other. The stone on top has a hole
in the center in which the grains have to be put. The top stone is rotated and
the friction causes the grains to be ground into flour, which collects all around
the stone.
Doules (Coconut spoons): A very economical use of the coconut shells is as a
spoon for cooking. The shells are split into halves, polished, and attached to a
long wooden handle to make a spoon.
Moltulem: these are earthenware dishes that are traditionally used for serving
the prepared dishes. They give an attractive and ethnic appeal to the Goan
food and also helps to retain the flavor and aroma of the food.
Vantleo and confro: Vantleo means the uniform molds made out of Stainless
steel. Confro is an airtight steaming chamber.
Clay pots Brass utensils
Varn Dantem
Doules Moltulem
Basic Ingredients & Cooking Styles of Goan Cuisine
Rice, coconut milk and fish, along with local spices, are the basic ingredients
of Goan cuisine. Other main ingredients widely used in Goan cuisine are
kokum, tamarind, red Goan chillies and cashews. Seafood such as pomfret,
prawns, crabs, lobsters, mussels, ladyfish, oysters and clams are used to
make soups, pickles and curries. Meats like pork, beef and chicken are
staples of the Goa Christian community.
Goans tend to love cooking as much as they love eating. Although modern
cooking methods have taken over, many Goan households still make use of
traditional cooking methods, like cooking in a clay pot on a wood fire, using
a varn (grinding stone) to grind spices, a dantem (hand-mill) for grinding
cereals, and brass utensils for cooking desserts. Traditional cooking methods
provide unique tastes and aromas. Regardless of the cooking method used,
the freshness of spices is fundamental, and is achieved by pounding the
spices with muscle power and patience.
Cooking Style of Goa
Basic Ingredient used in food
Dishes in Goan Cuisine
Fish Curry: A popular version of fish curry in Goa is the Ambot-Tik which
literally translates to Sour-Spicy. The sour comes from the use of the petals of
the tart „Kokum solam‟. Known to be a cooling agent and honoured for its
medicinal value, the red-coloured fruit of „Kokum‟ is the real king of Goan
cuisine. Grounded coconut is mixed with red chillies, peppercorns, cumin
seeds, coriander seeds, turmeric powder, garlic and ginger to make a fine
paste. Sliced onions, tamarind juice and green chillies are added along with a
cup of water and salt. The mixture is cooked and dried mango and kokum are
added in process. Later, fish is added and is cooked till ready. The dish is a
hot favourite of all seafood lovers.
Fish Recheado: Recheado means stuffed in Portuguese and in this recipe,
a fresh whole fish, usually a mackerel or pomfret, is slit down the center and
stuffed with a spicy red paste, after which it is shallow fried. Mackerel
Recheado is one of Goa‟s most famous dishes. Other fish can be used is well.
The fiery-red Recheado masala made of kashmiri red chilies, garlic, cumin,
peppercorns and tamarind is ground into a smooth but thick paste using
vinegar. It is very versatile and can be used to prepare many other Goan
seafood dishes. The Recheado masala can be made and stored in an airtight
container for months as the vinegar in it acts as a preservative.
Prawn Balchao: Prawn Balchão is another Goan favourite. Brought to Goa
by the Portuguese, Balchão originated in Macao, where it is called Balichao.
Balchao is a method of cooking either fish or prawns in a dark red and tangy
sauce. Balchao is almost like pickling and can be made days in advance
without reheating. The traditional Balchao uses a paste made from dried
shrimp known as „galmo‟ in Konkani spices and feni. This paste is added to
fresh prawns, onion, spices and oil to prepare a prawn balchao. Balchao is
often bottled and eaten as an accompaniment in meals.
Chicken Cafreal: A Goan dish of tribal origin is cafreal. It was named after
the African soldiers or Kaffirs who brought it to Goa centuries ago. Today, the
dish is made by marinating pieces of chicken in a paste made of spices,
chilies, garlic and ginger and lemon juice and then deep-fried or shallow fries
till dry. The result is rather dry, but spicy dish. This is the equivalent of
Portuguese-style grilled chicken and the sauce it is marinated in tastes a lot
like the famous Portuguese Peri-peri sauce.
Chouricos (Spicy Goan Sausages): Chouricos are spicy pork sausages,
which owe more than a passing debt to Portuguese (chouricos de rien)
culinary traditions. Goan sausages are prepared used well salted and spiced
cubes of pork. Once they have been made, the strings of sausages are dried
in the sun and then hung above the fire where they are gradually smoked.
Traditionally they are eaten during the monsoon, when fish is scarce. To
prepare them, they are soaked in water and then usually fried and served with
a hot sauce and rice.
Beef Assado and Pork Assado: There are different variations of this dish.
Usually pork or beef are used in the preparation. Assado which means roast is
prepared by first boiling the meat till it is almost cooked and the water used to
cook it is almost dry. It is then sliced and fried with Ghee or oil. This is very
popular as it does not get spoilt easily and does not involve much trouble to
cook. A very simple way of preparing roast beef is by first marinating the beef
cut into blocks in ginger garlic paste and a little of chilli paste ground in
vinegar. In a pot onions are fried in oil and to it is added the marinated blocks
of beef. After frying for some, time sufficient quantity of water is added. Then
cinnamon, cloves and pepper is added. Green chillies are also added. It is
then allowed to cook fully. When the water is almost dry it is removed from
fire. The beef is then sliced and fried.
Sanna: This is a traditional steamed rice preparation popular among
Catholics and Hindus alike and prepared by them on several special
occasions. On the outside Sannas would appear to be somewhat like idlis but
they are totally different in texture as well as taste. Sannas are prepared by
mixing ground rice, grated coconut and toddy and a bit of sugar to aid the
fermentation process. The mixture is kept overnight to ferment. Early in the
morning, the mixture is put in uniform moulds called “vantleo” made of
stainless steel. These moulds are then placed in a large copper vessel with an
air tight lid called “confro” for steaming. After a certain amount of time dictated
by the size of the mould they are removed and the next batch goes in. Freshly
made Sannas are nice and soft in texture and slightly sweet in taste. Another
variety is prepared by mixing Coconut Jaggery in the batter and the process of
making them is similar to the plain variety.
Bebinca: The most famous Goa‟s sweetmeats is bebinca also known as
bibik. There is a legend that says that Bebinca was made by a nun called
Bibiona of the Convento da Santa Monica in Old Goa. She made it with seven
layers to symbolise the seven hills of Lisbon and Old Goa and offered it to the
priest. But, he found it too small and thus the layers were increased. There are
some claims that it is made with 20 layers. But, ideally it is 14 or 16 layers.
According to some culinary experts this is a modified version of bebingka
made in Malaysia, Philippines and Indonesia.
Fenni: An accompaniment to wash down all Goan food is the locally brewed
feni. The Goans probably first distilled this from the fermented sap of the
coconut flower-stalk, but later they also made it from the fruit of the cashew
tree which the Portuguese had brought to the state with them. Though other
forms of liquor are readily available across the state, the Goans are as
emotional about their feni as they are about their food.
There are two types of feni, both of which are made from local ingredients.
Coconut or palm feni is made from the sap drawn from the severed shoots on
a coconut tree. In Goa this is known as toddy, and the men who collect it are
toddy taper‟s. Cashew or caju feni, on the other hand, can only be made
during the cashew season in late March and early April.
Undoubtedly Goa‟s most famous triple, double-distilled perfectly clear and
fearfully potent (has an alcoholic strength of around 30% yo 35% proof), this is
a drink that deserves respect.
