Oman

A PICTORIAL SOUVENIR

Published with the support and encouragement of

www.thewavemuscat.com

Oman
A PICTORIAL SOUVENIR JAAP CROESE

Published by Motivate Publishing Dubai: PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971) 4 282 4060, fax: (+971) 4 282 0428 e-mail: books@motivate.ae www.booksarabia.com Office 508, Building No 8, Dubai Media City, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971) 4 390 3550, fax: (+971) 4 390 4845 Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, Abu Dhabi, UAE Tel: (+971) 2 627 1666, fax: (+971) 2 627 1566 London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER e-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae Directors: Senior Editor: Editor: Deputy Editor: Assistant Editor: Art Director: Designer: Book Publishing Manager: Obaid Humaid Al Tayer and Ian Fairservice David Steele Pippa Sanderson Jennifer Evans Zelda Pinto Andrea Willmore Cithadel Francisco Jeremy Brinton

Jaap Croese and Motivate Publishing 2006

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any material form (including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) without the written permission of the copyright holders. Applications for the copyright holders written permission to reproduce any part of this publication should be addressed to the publishers. In accordance with the International Copyright Act 1956 and the UAE Federal Copyright Law No 40 of 1992, any person acting in contravention of this will be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages. ISBN: 1 86063 175 4 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Printed by Rashid Printers & Stationers LLC, Ajman, United Arab Emirates

Acknowledgements
The author would like to thank Nella Croese for her assistance in writing the captions for this book; Cathryn Ashton, for her patience and company during the many photo trips they made together; Dr Patricia Groves for her valuable advice; and the friends who helped him bring this book to fruition. Thanks also go to The Wave, Muscat, without whose encouragement and support the publication of this book would not have been possible.

Cover: Many young Omani girls wear a cape-like, heavily embroidered silk or cotton head covering called a kimmah before they marry. Back cover: This iconic mosque is a landmark along Matrah Corniche. Half-title page: The khanjar (curved dagger) is part of the Omani national dress and is worn at the front of the body on a special belt.

The silver ceremonial khanjar pictured, with its intricate pattern, is a widespread form of decoration. Title page: A Bedouin weaver spins coarse, but extremely durable, goat hair, which is used to make tents. Holding the wool in her left hand, she rotates the spindle with her right. This page: The White Stork is a frequent autumn visitor and many flocks enjoy their winter sojourn along the coast, especially in southern Oman. Following spread: An old man sits in the shade as he repairs the door of his shop in the old souk at Al-Hamra.

Introduction

he longer I live in the Sultanate of Oman, the more the culture, landscape, flora and fauna reveal themselves in all their richness and beauty. This book is the result of many years of photography, with the help of the people of the Sultanate who, once they got to know me, were always willing to share the most beautiful and interesting treasures in their neighbourhood. Their hospitality is something you cannot capture in a picture, but their generosity was critical to the photography you see throughout the pages that follow. Travelling round Oman and taking photographs was like a journey into the unknown. It was never possible to foresee how a trip would end, what I would encounter along the way and what the results would be. I could, for example, be at the camel races and, suddenly, the light would be so beautiful that it was possible to capture exquisite images. The next day, completely different photographic opportunities could be found in the diverse birdlife resulting from Omans geographic position on the migratory route between Asia and Africa. In fact, each one of Omans eight main regions has its own highlights, be it the date harvest, the old forts and the history they represent, the coastal vistas and marine life, the dhows and their construction, the craft workshops, the atmospheric souks or the colourful dresses of the Omani women. All have their own beauty. Omans civilization dates back several millennia. Today, the Sultanates enduring traditions and fascinating archaeology, set within a breathtaking landscape, draw tourists from around the globe. Omans natural wonders are a significant factor in attracting visitors; and the country is developing a sustainable tourism sector while conserving its natural surroundings. Integrated developments such as The Wave, Muscat epitomize the architectural traditions of which Oman is proud. It is the goal of this book to salute the Omani people and their rich heritage and culture, and to encourage visitors to the Sultanate to respect what they see. The culture of Oman is unique and should not be viewed from the perspective of Western customs and values. The richness of Omans heritage should be explored with the respect and care it deserves; and this, in turn, will enhance the wonderful experience Oman has to offer you. Jaap Croese

Heritage, Craft & Religion

he people of the Sultanate of Oman have a long and proud history spanning more than 7,000 years, a history which is engraved in settlements in the mountains and on the plains, in the desert and on the coasts. Omans heritage and culture continue to ower in the countrys craftsmanship, costume, folklore and cultural habits. Although their hospitality is renowned throughout the region, in earlier times the people of Oman were obliged to defend themselves by constructing forts and watchtowers for military and security purposes, and by fortifying their castles. Many of these fortications survive to this day, proudly standing as monuments of days gone by. There are more than 1,000 defensive structures still in existence across the country, a telling legacy of more bellicose times. Since 1970, with the accession of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the country has undergone a renaissance with unprecedented development and evolution. Yet, at the same time, Oman has maintained its respect for time, for people and for nature. Omanis have a strong sense of self, while their nation retains the traditional essence of its tangible and intangible culture in the midst of a modern infrastructure. Keeping heritage relevant to the next generation of Omanis, who enjoy a far more comfortable existence than their forefathers, has been a challenge; and one that, to all intents and purposes, has been achieved symbiotically and harmoniously. Traditional craft industries are very much alive, and give modern Omani artisans a means of expressing their identities and beliefs. While safeguarding its traditional arts and crafts, Omans Ministry of Heritage and Culture has been involved in a pioneering programme to restore historic sites using traditional materials and methods. In 1972, Oman became a member of UNESCO, the United Nations Educational, Scientic and Cultural Organization; and it now is privileged to have four inscribed UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Arabian Oryx Sanctuary in the Jiddat al-Harasiis; the fort and oasis at Bahla in the central interior; the 3,000-year-

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old tower tombs at Bat, Al-Khutm and Wadi al-Ayn in the western interior; and the ancient frankincense trade route of southern Oman, which includes the archaeological sites at Shisr, Khor Rori and Al-Balid, as well as a unique natural habitat that nurtures frankincense trees at Wadi Dawkah. The Ministry of Tourism has designated 22 forts and castles for development as tourist attractions. Muscat has several museums that feature the history, archaeology, heritage and traditions of the country, with a cornucopia of artefacts and mementoes. The historic harbours of Muscat and Matrah, as well as the Port of Sohar and the continuing boat-building activity at Sur on the far eastern tip of the country are reminders of the importance of seafaring in Omans history. Oman was one of the earliest countries to accept Islam, embracing the Prophets (PBUH) message in 632 AD. Most Omanis follow Ibadhism, a branch of Islam named after its founder, Abdullah ibn Ibadh who lived during the 7th-century AD, although there are some Sunnis and a small number of Shia. Omanis are tolerant of other branches of Islam and allow resident expatriates to practice their religions in the Sultanate. Beyond compare in beauty and dignity, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque opened in 2001. A gift from His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said to the people of Oman, the mosque can hold up to 20,000 worshippers. Hanging from inside its magnicent dome is the largest chandelier ever created, eight metres in diameter, 14 metres in length and weighing eight tonnes. It shines upon a magnicent carpet spanning an area of 4,263 square metres. The Grand Mosque is not only a place of prayer, but also a place of learning with a library and an Institute for Islamic studies. A distinctive blend of clothing and accessories constitute the national costume of Oman. For men it is a simple, ankle-length, collarless gown with long sleeves known as a dishdasha, in colours which vary from typical white to a spectrum of shades, including beige, brown, black, blue and lilac. It is usually adorned with a tassel, or furakha, at the neckline, which is often infused with perfume. Omani men typically wear a mussar or turban,

sometimes with a kummah, an intricately embroidered cap, underneath. For an Omani, the colour and pattern of his turban has as much signicance as the tartan design has for a Scotsman. The national dress is not complete without the khanjar, or curved dagger, which is usually worn at the front of the body around the waist, attached to a special belt often decorated with silver thread. This weapon played an important role in Omans history and currently is worn ceremonially at important public engagements and festivals. Signicantly, it is incorporated as an emblem in the national ag. Womens costumes vary in style from region to region, with some containing vivid colours and vibrant embroidery. Depending on the area, women may wear a dishdasha, or tunic, over their sirwal (long trousers); or, an overdress called a thawb which also functions as a head shawl or lihaf. Many Bedouin women still wear large masks, or burqas, for fashion as well as for protection against the sun. Today, mostly in urban areas, colourful vibrant attire or ordinary clothes are usually hidden under a long black cloak or abaya.

Previous spread: Weaving a warp-faced shepherd rug (sahah), fashioned from natural and dyed wool, in a village in Jebel Shams. Weaving is concentrated in the Western Hajar Mountains, particularly in the hamlets of Jebel Shams and Jebel Kawr, and in the Wadi Ghul and Wadi Sahtan areas.

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Oman is blessed with magnificent mosques. The one above is a simple, yet elegant monument, typical of many smaller examples, while the mosque to the left is the Sultan Said Mosque, named after Sultan Qaboos father who ruled from 1932 to 1970. Opened in 1999, it can accommodate some 2,000 worshippers, including women in their own area. It is the first mosque in Oman built in the Turkish style and encompasses elegant decoration and tiling.

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